I'm probably never going to use this information in my life, but this man's gentle kind old man voice managed to make me watch a whole 26 minute video. Cheers.
Thanks a lot. Yours is the first UA-cam video I’ve seen that continues beyond the instructions to explain WHY we should take each step. I just bought my first Japanese plane and was dismayed to find that I couldn’t seat the iron into cutting position. I was actually considering sending the plane back for a refund or replacement. Now I’m looking forward to setting it up step by step.
The dai is made from wood so it won't damage the surface of lumber. In Japan, softwood with plane-finish is considered as the best, and the surface has to be buttery smooth. Carpenters say it's quicker and easier to just tap the plane, as opposed to turn the screws for adjustment.
Even steel planes will respond to a tap with a hammer at the front or back. The adjustment is far finer than turning any adjusters . Tapping works for all wooden and steel planes .
Thank you for the video. I just got my plane and will follow these steps. This is my first hand plane. Western ones are a bit too expensive for me to start with. Just need them to surface the faces smooth of boards.
The chip breaker was introduced when the shokunin (master craftsmen) were selected for their skills amidst war. When the apprentices realized they had not developed the proper skills quickly enough and couldn’t without the teachings of their master, blacksmiths invented the chip breaker. I only bring this up to maintain the integrity and credit of Japanese carpentry as it is a trade that been cultivated and refined for so long, no wonder it comes with measurable pride
This is a campy story, but the reality is a user uses the chipbreaker, they get more work done. the same thing happened in the west. Economically, you can do a better job and faster with the chipbreaker - it's a better design and someone not using it would go out of business in a competitive environment.
Well, still learning..... Anyway, for side adjustments, I have seen some who tap the side of their planes, and trying to figure that one out. You can tap the top side of the blade to correct for the blade not being square. Some times I think the blade is all the way to the side and hitting wood, and have wondered if tapping the side of the plane body scoots the blade sideways so you get some clearance and you can adjust the blade more if needed, for squaring up the blade. Also I have wondered if you can adjust the blade forward the same way you adjust it backwards, or maybe the opposite.... If you strike the front of the plane body, doesn't that do the same thing for adjusting for a slightly deeper cut?
I have the Japanese style planer , and the magic is that the sharp blade is from ATo Z , so if the jack plane is having the sharp blade , it is good as well .
I am wondering if the 2 hollows on the sole of this style of plane has been applied to the Euro style wood hand planes. Also, wondering if this helps make for a long straight cut which seems to be impossible with the metal planes since they don't have an outfeed table like the power planers....
If the slight hollow in the sole works so well at reducing friction and keeping the blade in contact with wood, why can't this be done on metal body planes.
I mean, I understand orientalism and the fascination with Japanese steel….but, this seems like a downgrade Also, when flattening or lapping stones, start with the finest stone and work down to the coarsest. YOU might be the best lapping stone cleaner in the world, but most people will transfer coarse grits to their finer stones if they do it the other way round…which causes problems.
You leave out and gloss over way too much for this video to be useful for beginners. You don't even include information on uradashi, which is incredibly important for those whose blades aren't flat.
Thats because the hammering technique is not suited well for beginners, they could make the blade worse, or even break it...... and it will need this adjustment more times throughout its life. He ground it flat, that is enough for a beginner :)
I'm probably never going to use this information in my life, but this man's gentle kind old man voice managed to make me watch a whole 26 minute video. Cheers.
Thanks a lot. Yours is the first UA-cam video I’ve seen that continues beyond the instructions to explain WHY we should take each step. I just bought my first Japanese plane and was dismayed to find that I couldn’t seat the iron into cutting position. I was actually considering sending the plane back for a refund or replacement. Now I’m looking forward to setting it up step by step.
Thank you! I have used Japanese style saws for some years. The planes are intriguing.
Congrats to all involved in this video. All is well done, clearly explained and presented,
You are a Master Teacher ! Well done !
Very useful material, detailed and accessible. I learned some nuances of the plane settings.Thank you, health and well-being.
Fantastic video. I'm new to japanese hand planes and appreciate the thoroughness of the video/lesson.
Thank you, Sir. I was struggling with the Japanese versions of tuning the planes as they dont go over the nuances like you do. Much appreciated
The dai is made from wood so it won't damage the surface of lumber. In Japan, softwood with plane-finish is considered as the best, and the surface has to be buttery smooth. Carpenters say it's quicker and easier to just tap the plane, as opposed to turn the screws for adjustment.
@@Yuki-no-hi or you just suck at using it. its said skilled craftsmen can use it alot easier than western planes
Even steel planes will respond to a tap with a hammer at the front or back. The adjustment is far finer than turning any adjusters . Tapping works for all wooden and steel planes .
Thank you for the video. I just got my plane and will follow these steps. This is my first hand plane. Western ones are a bit too expensive for me to start with. Just need them to surface the faces smooth of boards.
Best video. Thoroughly educative. Thank you sir.
The chip breaker was introduced when the shokunin (master craftsmen) were selected for their skills amidst war. When the apprentices realized they had not developed the proper skills quickly enough and couldn’t without the teachings of their master, blacksmiths invented the chip breaker.
I only bring this up to maintain the integrity and credit of Japanese carpentry as it is a trade that been cultivated and refined for so long, no wonder it comes with measurable pride
This is a campy story, but the reality is a user uses the chipbreaker, they get more work done. the same thing happened in the west. Economically, you can do a better job and faster with the chipbreaker - it's a better design and someone not using it would go out of business in a competitive environment.
Great video. I have a lot to learn, but this video was a great start!
Very well done video. Thank you.
Thank you.👍
Very good. Congratulations.
Legit. Time to learn
Well, still learning..... Anyway, for side adjustments, I have seen some who tap the side of their planes, and trying to figure that one out. You can tap the top side of the blade to correct for the blade not being square. Some times I think the blade is all the way to the side and hitting wood, and have wondered if tapping the side of the plane body scoots the blade sideways so you get some clearance and you can adjust the blade more if needed, for squaring up the blade.
Also I have wondered if you can adjust the blade forward the same way you adjust it backwards, or maybe the opposite.... If you strike the front of the plane body, doesn't that do the same thing for adjusting for a slightly deeper cut?
I have the Japanese style planer , and the magic is that the sharp blade is from ATo Z , so if the jack plane is having the sharp blade , it is good as well .
Very interesting.
Damn. The Japanese be looking for machinist tolerances with wood. Impressive 😂
I am wondering if the 2 hollows on the sole of this style of plane has been applied to the Euro style wood hand planes. Also, wondering if this helps make for a long straight cut which seems to be impossible with the metal planes since they don't have an outfeed table like the power planers....
Magnifico
What material is it made of that it would split the di ? Balsa wood?
Thank you captain Birdseye
You forgot to mention secondary bevel of the blades cutting edge. It's been plainly seen on blade.
If the slight hollow in the sole works so well at reducing friction and keeping the blade in contact with wood, why can't this be done on metal body planes.
I want a western plane with Japanese blades
Every tool needs 15 more tools I’ll only use once
No u need tools to sharpen and true stock measurement tools for every project you do 😊
Just bought a 50mm,
I’m gonna go ahead…
I’m gonna go ahead…
I’m gonna go ahead…
I’m gonna go ahead…
Where are the Chinese planes and chisels and saws
Thank you. I will stick to the western plane. This guy requires too much maintenance and has lower functionality.
I mean, I understand orientalism and the fascination with Japanese steel….but, this seems like a downgrade
Also, when flattening or lapping stones, start with the finest stone and work down to the coarsest. YOU might be the best lapping stone cleaner in the world, but most people will transfer coarse grits to their finer stones if they do it the other way round…which causes problems.
You leave out and gloss over way too much for this video to be useful for beginners. You don't even include information on uradashi, which is incredibly important for those whose blades aren't flat.
Thats because the hammering technique is not suited well for beginners, they could make the blade worse, or even break it...... and it will need this adjustment more times throughout its life. He ground it flat, that is enough for a beginner :)
Hey Julia Child, where is your class or video? You don't have one? Interesting
@@samspade4634 you must have never complained about a meal, song, or film in your life.
Oh, you're a hypocrite? Interesting
Why the hippo in crate?