This information is invaluable. I along with the 300 Blackout community, can't thank you enough. I suspect this channel will do very well, as more people discover it. I never knew how important powder burn rate was. Thanks again! 🤯🤓
I built around a 6” 1:5 Faxon barrel and it was always on the verge of not cycling subs with a high back pressure can. Started emailing this guy then realized maybe he already threw some insight out there. Yes, and a larger ID gas tube to solve this issue. Ordered it with a sprinco yellow and now I’ve got my preferred 3:00 ejection, lrbho, gun not beating itself up every shot. Eitris is an gem of a resource for the realm of 300blk.
great information , just finished a 5" BO build and function checked it with 147gn Supers and works well so now onto subs , this video has the info i was looking for to start reloading subs , Thanks
Seriously, what an AWESOME video! I have a can in jail, and wanted to test subs, Hornady Black 208gr would NOT cycle at all, and would not lock back. Bought some Winchester Whitebox 200gr after watching your video, and it cycles WITHOUT a can, and locks back. Good to know about "margin" for when I get my can that is not a traditional flow through, but advertises "surge bypass" functionality. Great work Eitri!
Good info, thanks for putting out informative content on the .300. I have been running some factory loading in my Rattler (5.5 inch barrel) with a Q Half Nelson to see what works. With the “+” gas setting, AAC 220gr OTM, Winchester 200gr, Remington 220gr, Federal American Eagle 220gr all cycled and locked back. Fort Scott TUI 190gr cycled, but would barely lock back or would fail to lock back. Fiocchi 220gr, Hornady 208gr & Hornady Sub-X 190gr failed to reliably cycle in my setup. On the “-“ gas setting AAC Sabre 110gr, Remington 150gr, Barnes 110gr Tac-TX & Fort Scott TUI 115gr all cycled and locked back. Prior to shooting suppressed, I shot 3 rounds of each factory loadings into a paper target at about 10 yards to make sure there were no issues with the projectiles and the twist rate. All stayed together and no signs the projectiles ripped themselves apart. No keyholes. No issues after adding the suppressor either.
Good video. My brand new MCX rattler turned into a single shot when running hornady 208. I was telling myself I need a baffle can to make it work but I think I’ll try out a few different brands before I buy a baffle can. The rifle ran way too well with supers so I’m trying to avoid thinking there is anything wrong with the gun. But it’s also an sig so yeah I won’t lie it’s on my mind.
Run a Sig Rattler (5.5 inch barrel) with a Q Half Nelson and Hornady 208gr are not reliable for my set up. Never had any luck with them. Can run Winchester 200, Remington 220, Federal 220, AAC 220 reliably, just not Hornady 208 or the 190 Sub-X.
TUP - Time under pressure is one of the best things I've learned taking Robert Gee's AR15 armorers course and matches all of what you said. But I like the way you explain it too applying it to 300 blk with examples. I left here educated on fast powder is more quiet, not the slower burning. I could apply this to other systems as well like shooting suppressed reddot hand guns get powder discomforting spitback to the face with slow CFE pistol powder, but gets less spitback and less dirty optic with fast burning titegroup powder. I know from testing my DI 7" AR15 is more quiet than my 6.75 piston rattler based on more port pop noise. I would like to know why that is. I would like to know more about why adding buffer weights actually increases the reliability sometimes if the gun is undergassed, but changing to a yellow sprinco spring can cause way better results, but on 5.56 system is doesn't always react the same. I also wanna know can you trust the undergassing overgassing 3'oclock ejection chart and apply it to a 300 blk, because I've noticed 300 blk doesnt bounce off the deflector the same as 5.56. Last round hold open ive found is a way better observation to detect undergassing issues vs brass deflection. Really good content. I hope your budget increases for more testing.
Man oh man, I love these questions! I actually have an answer for all of these questions, but to write it all down it will take forever! Id love to answer them for you over the phone or through our weekly webinar every Saturday at 10am EST. I cant post a link, but a google search of our UA-cam name should land you on the right website. Looking forward to having this conversation!
Get an adjustable piston gas system. I built my 300Blk with PSA upper, lower & a piston kit from Adams Arms. I can reliably switch between supers & subs with the flick of the gas block switch & the gun runs super clean since it’s piston. Being able to regulate the gas for suppressed and unsuppressed, supersonic & subsonic on the fly with multiple different grains of ammo is only possible with an adjustable piston gas system
Running a Rattler LT with a Hyperion. Already screwed. 🤦🏾♂️ Hornady definitely doesn’t run. Now need to find out how to optimize this to run the most ammunitions.
We’ve been wanting to get ahold of a rattler LT upper to gather data and see what could possibly be altered to achieve improved function as we’ve known about the rattler LT disliking the Hyperion suppressor for a while. Would you be interested in sending your upper to us to inspect and see what could be done to improve its function?
Great info! I can only get S&B locally, and I was thinking I needed to drill out my gas port to get it to cycle! I’ll definitely be ordering other options…
It would be really cool to see a list of 1:5 safe factory loads (sub and super). It seems like with a 6" barrel, most of the fmj supers are within a safe spin rate, but it can be more complicated with expanding subs. I am really afraid to ruin a suppressor, I've seen some horror stories online.
Basically now a days everything except for plated projectiles like berry’s spire point are good for 1:5 (even these are good as long as they stay under 1000fps) The only exception with the 1:5 may be with longer barrels and supers as rpm goes up with velocity of the projectile!
The adjustable gas block will offer no real difference with how these powders behave other than it being able to reduce the gas amount. The adjustable gas will reduce the pressure equally to all powders used. So it really doesn’t provide any benefit unless you are already overgassed with extremely fast powders. And if you are tuning your gas to cycle nicely with slow powders, it will basically guarantee your system will not function with fast powders. So like I always say, tune your system to your weakest/fastest powder subs and then shoot everything else with the same adjustment!
Those are the systems that would have to be adapted to cooperate with the powder of choice. If you want to run fast powders, you would need to alter all those things you mentioned. The main element to know is that powders are different, and that’s why some subs cause issues and some don’t.
Hey man just getting into 300 blk and reloading. I basically copied your faxon 6in build. Just waiting for bootleg bcg to come back into stock. I rewatched your video on it and you mentioned you run 125 gr supers and 200 gr subs. I have both those bullet weights for reloading so I’m curious what powder use for you loads and how much. Thanks.
Hey! Welcome to the 300blk community! If you haven’t already, I would recommend you check out our 6” upper so you can see our parts recipe! H110 powder has been great for both subs and supers if you need a starting point. Unfortunately I don’t have any specific load data for those weights. But the hodgdon website has plenty of load data available if you need somewhere to start!
So wouldn’t this depend on your barrel length as well? Because if you have an 8 or 9 inch barrel, your gas system will remain pressurized for longer than a 6 inch barrel of the same gas system length. And for heavier bullets as well? Wouldn’t a 220gr sub require more gas to hit the same speed as a 200 or 190? Wouldn’t that extra gas help cycle the action?
Dwell helps for sure, but dwell means nothing if there isn’t enough consistent gas pressure to cycle the action. That’s the key element here! You need a powder that can maintain pressure after the introduction of the gas port which is a gas leak in itself. Gas pressure can go from very high to zero really quickly if there is no more powder left to burn. Hence why a slow powder can “maintain” the pressure even with a “leak” like the gas port. This is a really hard thing to explain over text so let me know if any of this doesn’t make sense.
Id love to but I have a bunch of things going on! Although looking into their options it looks like they follow the same concept i explain here based on their barrel length or platform requirements for submitting an order for their ammo!
It absolutely should be with the right combination of parts or powder/ammo choice! I can help you achieve this if you are interested! We are actually going to be diving into making our 6” platform cycle subs with a flow through suppressor!
@@eitrisenhancementsllc The second one. Would it be beneficial to go with a micro vs pistol length gas (if it was an option on the same barrel length) to reduce the gas differences between different subs (or even supers and subs)?
@loganmaples3603 oh man, that’s a loaded question! To summarize though I would say that a micro gas system may be “easier” to tune than pistol length gas systems for the same caliber. This is purely due to having access to higher pressures. But realistically it may lead to a louder platform due to earlier extraction. It will also run dirtier. Realistically I don’t believe it matters as long as the system is tuned properly based on its own unique requirements. Each has its pros and cons. But consistency isn’t the reason I would choose a micro system. Honestly the only reason to choose micro systems over pistol is purely because your barrel is shorter than 6” and therefore can’t use a pistol system because it simply doesn’t fit! That’s about the only reason to seek a micro system! Does this all make sense or do I need to touch up on something else?
@@eitrisenhancementsllc No I think you pretty well covered things thank you. I was thinking shorter gas system in the context of running supers and subs. I've seen your video on the bootleg for this, but was just imagining ways to make hot swapping to supers with no changes to the system more bearable.
This video definitely helped. I've got the 1:5 Twist Faxon 7.5" barrel, and I was having cycling issues with the S&B and Ammo Inc. Stelth rounds. After finally drilling out the gas port hole to 1/8", switching gas blocks (potential alignment issue), and going to the Winchester/Remington rounds, I have a fully functional gun that holds open on the last round. I had some S&B left over to test as well, and it began to cycle after these changes to the gun. However, they would not stay open on last round. Goes to show that the info in the video was correct about the different powders and reliability.
We can definitely help you get your 7.5” barrel up and running too if you stop by our website! We have been able to get our 6” platform to cycle everything suppressed with the same .125” gas port! Id be more than happy to point you in the right direction if you send us an email with a list of all the components used for your build so you can achieve full function!
@Thisthat1234 yessir! Its available on our website in our Laevateinn Upper description! We cant post links but it is easy to find through google search!
This information is invaluable. I along with the 300 Blackout community, can't thank you enough. I suspect this channel will do very well, as more people discover it. I never knew how important powder burn rate was. Thanks again! 🤯🤓
I built around a 6” 1:5 Faxon barrel and it was always on the verge of not cycling subs with a high back pressure can. Started emailing this guy then realized maybe he already threw some insight out there. Yes, and a larger ID gas tube to solve this issue. Ordered it with a sprinco yellow and now I’ve got my preferred 3:00 ejection, lrbho, gun not beating itself up every shot. Eitris is an gem of a resource for the realm of 300blk.
great information , just finished a 5" BO build and function checked it with 147gn Supers and works well so now onto subs , this video has the info i was looking for to start reloading subs , Thanks
Seriously, what an AWESOME video! I have a can in jail, and wanted to test subs, Hornady Black 208gr would NOT cycle at all, and would not lock back.
Bought some Winchester Whitebox 200gr after watching your video, and it cycles WITHOUT a can, and locks back.
Good to know about "margin" for when I get my can that is not a traditional flow through, but advertises "surge bypass" functionality.
Great work Eitri!
So helpful! Thank you
Had trouble with S&B subs switched to ammo Inc and worked perfectly
Wow!!! This is amazing.
No doubt
I've been running a Faxon 9", 1-7 twist barrel and it is excellent. Runs great with AAC 220gr subs.
I have a 10.5 Faxon and it cycles evey ammo I’ve tried… very accurate as well
Good info, thanks for putting out informative content on the .300. I have been running some factory loading in my Rattler (5.5 inch barrel) with a Q Half Nelson to see what works.
With the “+” gas setting, AAC 220gr OTM, Winchester 200gr, Remington 220gr, Federal American Eagle 220gr all cycled and locked back. Fort Scott TUI 190gr cycled, but would barely lock back or would fail to lock back. Fiocchi 220gr, Hornady 208gr & Hornady Sub-X 190gr failed to reliably cycle in my setup.
On the “-“ gas setting AAC Sabre 110gr, Remington 150gr, Barnes 110gr Tac-TX & Fort Scott TUI 115gr all cycled and locked back.
Prior to shooting suppressed, I shot 3 rounds of each factory loadings into a paper target at about 10 yards to make sure there were no issues with the projectiles and the twist rate. All stayed together and no signs the projectiles ripped themselves apart. No keyholes. No issues after adding the suppressor either.
Good video. My brand new MCX rattler turned into a single shot when running hornady 208. I was telling myself I need a baffle can to make it work but I think I’ll try out a few different brands before I buy a baffle can. The rifle ran way too well with supers so I’m trying to avoid thinking there is anything wrong with the gun. But it’s also an sig so yeah I won’t lie it’s on my mind.
Run a Sig Rattler (5.5 inch barrel) with a Q Half Nelson and Hornady 208gr are not reliable for my set up. Never had any luck with them. Can run Winchester 200, Remington 220, Federal 220, AAC 220 reliably, just not Hornady 208 or the 190 Sub-X.
TUP - Time under pressure is one of the best things I've learned taking Robert Gee's AR15 armorers course and matches all of what you said. But I like the way you explain it too applying it to 300 blk with examples. I left here educated on fast powder is more quiet, not the slower burning. I could apply this to other systems as well like shooting suppressed reddot hand guns get powder discomforting spitback to the face with slow CFE pistol powder, but gets less spitback and less dirty optic with fast burning titegroup powder.
I know from testing my DI 7" AR15 is more quiet than my 6.75 piston rattler based on more port pop noise. I would like to know why that is. I would like to know more about why adding buffer weights actually increases the reliability sometimes if the gun is undergassed, but changing to a yellow sprinco spring can cause way better results, but on 5.56 system is doesn't always react the same. I also wanna know can you trust the undergassing overgassing 3'oclock ejection chart and apply it to a 300 blk, because I've noticed 300 blk doesnt bounce off the deflector the same as 5.56. Last round hold open ive found is a way better observation to detect undergassing issues vs brass deflection. Really good content. I hope your budget increases for more testing.
Man oh man, I love these questions!
I actually have an answer for all of these questions, but to write it all down it will take forever!
Id love to answer them for you over the phone or through our weekly webinar every Saturday at 10am EST.
I cant post a link, but a google search of our UA-cam name should land you on the right website.
Looking forward to having this conversation!
just recently bought a cmmg in 300aac blkout with a 14.5" bbl any suggestions on ammo ?? eventually might go silent ..
Get an adjustable piston gas system. I built my 300Blk with PSA upper, lower & a piston kit from Adams Arms. I can reliably switch between supers & subs with the flick of the gas block switch & the gun runs super clean since it’s piston. Being able to regulate the gas for suppressed and unsuppressed, supersonic & subsonic on the fly with multiple different grains of ammo is only possible with an adjustable piston gas system
Running a Rattler LT with a Hyperion. Already screwed. 🤦🏾♂️ Hornady definitely doesn’t run. Now need to find out how to optimize this to run the most ammunitions.
We’ve been wanting to get ahold of a rattler LT upper to gather data and see what could possibly be altered to achieve improved function as we’ve known about the rattler LT disliking the Hyperion suppressor for a while.
Would you be interested in sending your upper to us to inspect and see what could be done to improve its function?
@@eitrisenhancementsllc Absolutely!
Send us a message via our website! We would be happy to work with you!
Might want to post your website as the top comment and in the description. Thanks for the video!
I would if youtube policy allowed it! And not a problem!
That is hilarious that you listed S&B and Ammo Inc because they’re the two I’ve had trouble cycling!
Yessir! They truly are difficult!
Great info! I can only get S&B locally, and I was thinking I needed to drill out my gas port to get it to cycle! I’ll definitely be ordering other options…
It would be really cool to see a list of 1:5 safe factory loads (sub and super). It seems like with a 6" barrel, most of the fmj supers are within a safe spin rate, but it can be more complicated with expanding subs. I am really afraid to ruin a suppressor, I've seen some horror stories online.
Basically now a days everything except for plated projectiles like berry’s spire point are good for 1:5 (even these are good as long as they stay under 1000fps)
The only exception with the 1:5 may be with longer barrels and supers as rpm goes up with velocity of the projectile!
@@eitrisenhancementsllc thank you!
Winchester subs are usually 200gr.
Wow, great video, certainly subscribed. How does an adjustable gas block play into this? I have a new 8.5 with one that I have yet to shoot. Thanks!
The adjustable gas block will offer no real difference with how these powders behave other than it being able to reduce the gas amount.
The adjustable gas will reduce the pressure equally to all powders used. So it really doesn’t provide any benefit unless you are already overgassed with extremely fast powders.
And if you are tuning your gas to cycle nicely with slow powders, it will basically guarantee your system will not function with fast powders.
So like I always say, tune your system to your weakest/fastest powder subs and then shoot everything else with the same adjustment!
What about all the other issues such as buffer weight, buffer springs, gas port, etc ..
Those are the systems that would have to be adapted to cooperate with the powder of choice. If you want to run fast powders, you would need to alter all those things you mentioned.
The main element to know is that powders are different, and that’s why some subs cause issues and some don’t.
Hey man just getting into 300 blk and reloading. I basically copied your faxon 6in build. Just waiting for bootleg bcg to come back into stock. I rewatched your video on it and you mentioned you run 125 gr supers and 200 gr subs. I have both those bullet weights for reloading so I’m curious what powder use for you loads and how much. Thanks.
Hey! Welcome to the 300blk community!
If you haven’t already, I would recommend you check out our 6” upper so you can see our parts recipe!
H110 powder has been great for both subs and supers if you need a starting point.
Unfortunately I don’t have any specific load data for those weights. But the hodgdon website has plenty of load data available if you need somewhere to start!
So wouldn’t this depend on your barrel length as well? Because if you have an 8 or 9 inch barrel, your gas system will remain pressurized for longer than a 6 inch barrel of the same gas system length.
And for heavier bullets as well? Wouldn’t a 220gr sub require more gas to hit the same speed as a 200 or 190? Wouldn’t that extra gas help cycle the action?
Dwell helps for sure, but dwell means nothing if there isn’t enough consistent gas pressure to cycle the action.
That’s the key element here! You need a powder that can maintain pressure after the introduction of the gas port which is a gas leak in itself.
Gas pressure can go from very high to zero really quickly if there is no more powder left to burn.
Hence why a slow powder can “maintain” the pressure even with a “leak” like the gas port.
This is a really hard thing to explain over text so let me know if any of this doesn’t make sense.
@@eitrisenhancementsllc No it makes sense, thanks for responding.
Any chance you can show this to Discreet Ballistic and try to get some of their ammo for testing? Would love to get your take on this ammo
Id love to but I have a bunch of things going on!
Although looking into their options it looks like they follow the same concept i explain here based on their barrel length or platform requirements for submitting an order for their ammo!
I've used a few powders for 200 gr subs. VV N110 works very well. (Maker 200gr 2.130 col) N120 ain't bad either.
The VV N110 cycles well with a canned up 300 Blackout? I will definitely try these rounds immediately. Thanks
So my 10.5 inches with a pistol-length gas system should be fine with a flow suppressor?
It absolutely should be with the right combination of parts or powder/ammo choice!
I can help you achieve this if you are interested!
We are actually going to be diving into making our 6” platform cycle subs with a flow through suppressor!
Most charts have cfe blk a few places ahead of 1680
Would a shorter gas system be generally more consistent across different loadings or a longer gas system?
Are you referring a short gas system in terms of dwell?
Or are you asking about a shorter system like a micro vs pistol?
@@eitrisenhancementsllc The second one. Would it be beneficial to go with a micro vs pistol length gas (if it was an option on the same barrel length) to reduce the gas differences between different subs (or even supers and subs)?
@loganmaples3603 oh man, that’s a loaded question!
To summarize though I would say that a micro gas system may be “easier” to tune than pistol length gas systems for the same caliber.
This is purely due to having access to higher pressures. But realistically it may lead to a louder platform due to earlier extraction.
It will also run dirtier. Realistically I don’t believe it matters as long as the system is tuned properly based on its own unique requirements.
Each has its pros and cons. But consistency isn’t the reason I would choose a micro system. Honestly the only reason to choose micro systems over pistol is purely because your barrel is shorter than 6” and therefore can’t use a pistol system because it simply doesn’t fit!
That’s about the only reason to seek a micro system!
Does this all make sense or do I need to touch up on something else?
@@eitrisenhancementsllc No I think you pretty well covered things thank you. I was thinking shorter gas system in the context of running supers and subs. I've seen your video on the bootleg for this, but was just imagining ways to make hot swapping to supers with no changes to the system more bearable.
What brand : model of high flow gas tube are you using
We offer them on our site to help alleviate this issue!
Do u have a discount code for shippping or anything?
Sorry, at this moment we don’t have any discount codes.
@@eitrisenhancementsllc since it’s out of stock on your website can u tell me what brand you use lol
Yeah, i screwed up. Bought bulk hornady ammo before testing. Had to tune my gun to the ammo 😅
This video definitely helped. I've got the 1:5 Twist Faxon 7.5" barrel, and I was having cycling issues with the S&B and Ammo Inc. Stelth rounds. After finally drilling out the gas port hole to 1/8", switching gas blocks (potential alignment issue), and going to the Winchester/Remington rounds, I have a fully functional gun that holds open on the last round.
I had some S&B left over to test as well, and it began to cycle after these changes to the gun. However, they would not stay open on last round. Goes to show that the info in the video was correct about the different powders and reliability.
We can definitely help you get your 7.5” barrel up and running too if you stop by our website!
We have been able to get our 6” platform to cycle everything suppressed with the same .125” gas port!
Id be more than happy to point you in the right direction if you send us an email with a list of all the components used for your build so you can achieve full function!
@@eitrisenhancementsllcdo you have a build list on the 6 inch faxon ?
@Thisthat1234 yessir! Its available on our website in our Laevateinn Upper description!
We cant post links but it is easy to find through google search!
If I was a reloader this would be useful but I'm not.
This video isn’t exclusively for reloaded as The video touches on off the shelf ammo as well.
Make sure you watch the whole thing!