Willys steering knuckle installation, proper lubricants for Willys Jeep
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- In this video I am working on the front axle of the CJ3A restoration and am going to show you the steps on how to properly install a steering knuckle. There will also be some talk on the proper lubricant to use inside the knuckle housing.
I always get something from all your shows even if some are 7 years old we are still working on a Jeep and most of the knowledge is dead and gone, but their is always a new generation hungry for the info people like you and others are preaching. Thank you for your time. Paul
appreciate you watching
I’m rebuilding my 1959 CJ-5’s knuckles. Something I’ve never attempted. Your video has been most healthful. Thank you!!
best part of your videos is the environment and the implements used to hold, support your work; nothing crazy or out of ordinary. Allows my brain say " I can do that"
Back in the 80's when I bought my '69 Jeepster, the knuckle was filled with, you guessed it: gear oil. Left a mess wherever the Jeep was parked. Within days I had it apart to rebuild the knuckles and put new brakes on. When I went to look for lube, I saw it needed #0 grease. Turns out, one place in Boise had a 5 gal can of Chevron #0 grease that had been sitting there for ages and sold it to me cheap just so they could stop tripping over the damn thing.
So...lifetime supply. ;)
@@MrJeep75 Nope. Most fill it w/90W because it's handy. It's a piss-poor solution, since no matter the condition of the seals, it'll seep out and make a mess. It's also not what Jeep tells you to use (#0 in winter and #1 in summer, quoted right from my original Kaiser Service Manual)). The #0 (and #1) is pretty much impossible to find, so the best solution is a mix of chassis lube & 140W gear oil. Have a read here at Novak, these guys know their chit: tinyurl.com/n4ep8f94
I like your info and tips I just brought 1946 willy's jeep
your information is the best, very clear and easy to understand, thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Your are a constant and vital resource in all facets of our Jeep rebuilds. I personally refer back to metalshaper on a regular basis. Today's refer-back was simply to verify that the King Pin torque setting of 35 ft-lbs is correct; you are the authority. Bless you Brian!
good to have you watching
Hey, I just have to say your videos are fantastic! I really appreciate the no nonsense and no b.s. when I do youtube research on anything wether it's home repair, wood working, cooking, mechanicing, or any kind of skill that I'm trying to better myself at. I have to filter through a bunch of nonsense in videos that do have valuable information in them, but I, and I'm sure the majority of people couldn't care less about to get the goods. I don't want to see an intro or hear how great a guy is before they get to the point. I want to learn! I have much more respect for a guy like you! Definitely more trust worthy, and clear that you know what you are talking about. I have a cj2a that I grew up working on with my dad and I drove through high school and college. I am currently working on a 1960 wagon an your videos are invaluable. Thanks so much sharing your knowledge!!!
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I try to put out real information for the people looking to learn.
I'm learning alot about the different axels from the earlier to the later
Right on great axle info nothing like a history lesson to improve ones knowledge .....
I'm working through all your axle videos Brian, thanks a million!
Glad you are enjoying the videos.
@@metalshaperJeep I'm trying to do king pins on a 45 mb. The book says 4 to 6 pounds of pull. You say 12 to 16 pounds witch is correct. Please reply. Thank you.
@@patrickwolf885 I use 12 to 16 pounds as required for later vehicles. I do the same when working on MB or GPW front axles. If you make the pull too light you will feel it when driving.
Great info! Thanks for taking the time to do this.
You are the Jeep guru...thanks for the information.
Great information and I'm confident I would be able to remove and install a knuckle without failure.
Glad it helped
Thanks for the info , I’m doing my Dana 27 right now and I needed this info so I do it right once
Glad it helped
Hey metalshaper, I am working on my 1942 MB and I am glad I found you on UA-cam. Can you talk about the Rzeppsa joint and the seal it had on the knuckle housing. I sure am learning a lot from your videos, wish I found them sooner.
I don't have any rzeppa joints out of axles so that is why I didn't talk about them in this video. Will show them in a later video along with the knuckle seal and the correct lube for the knuckle. Thanks for commenting and watching my video series.
Could the bearing part of the knuckle ball be squished and out of round vertically? That would cause the bearings to be loose.
Great info., as always. Much appreciated
Brian... Thank you excellent video. Juan
You sir are awesome. Your videos are the best I’ve seen and I can watch/listen for hours on end. Not sure if you answer questions in regard to your older videos, but if you do, what have you coated your cleaned parts with? Is it black paint or an oil/CPC? Great work!
After sandblasting I use black epoxy primer. On top of that I use black, single stage urethane paint. Thanks for watching.
Brian
Great video as always. Thank you
Excellent job on the videos. I think I am up to date with all of them now. Looking forward to the next steps as well as finishing off the rear axels as well. All the welding shots are looking great!! Keep them coming the video are tremendously helpful.
Jon F.
P.s Will you be doing a complete engine rebuild series?
Thanks for the comment, and support of my channel. I am still waiting on some parts for the front end, but have everything I need to finish up the rear axle, which will happen soon. Keep watching, many more videos to come.
For those of you using the M38 military tech manual there is an important ERROR in the manual that you should be aware of. The military tech manual instructs you to use the two shorter bolts to secure the brake hose guard on the top king pin, leaving you with the two longer bolts to go in the remaining holes. If you do this, you WILL tighten them down onto the bearing, distorting the bearing cage and ruining the kingpin bearing. Use the two LONGER bolts to secure the brake hose guard to the top of the kingpin. The engineers were trying to achieve 1 & 1/2 turns of exposed thread inside the steering knuckle on each bolt when they employed two long and two short bolts. The two longer bolts were used because of the thickness of the brake hose guard (which is held with only two bolts.) In this same way, if you are checking for proper shim thickness be sure to add an extra washer to the two longer bolts, or make sure you are using the brake hose guard or you will bottom out the longer bolts onto your top kingpin bearings and ruin them.
Sir now iam using mahindra 1994 model di engine jeep 4wheel drive, 4+1 gearbox added, super performence😊
Your videos are great!
Thank you for your reply, I think good steering is more important than original looks...Hal
I am restoring a CJ2A. I have been watching videos. this is the first one I have watched from you. Excellent video. I see it is from 2017. I hope you are still around. I need to order knuckle, trany, and steering lube. I need all of it. I will try to figure out how I contact you. Bert
contact me anytime at metalshaper@comcast.net
Brian
I did the knuckle ajustment, but I put shims on both sides... to get the pre load bearings... But my CJ5 have D44 full size axles with power steering and 35" size tires...
Hugely valuable video. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
What do you use for thread sealant? Image was blurry and upside down - I couldn’t make it out
Your videos are great I was wondering if you could tell what service manual covers torque specs on my m38a1 jeep 1954 I'm working on the front and rear axles but my original manual doesn't show many torque specs
I don’t have locking hubs on my 1969 CJ5 and I am taking them off when I rebuild my 1960 wagon
Amazing video thank you! It helped so much!
Glad it helped!
Can you post a link to the knuckle lube? I was honestly just planning on packing my knuckle bearings with wheel bearing grease before I watched this
Got some great information. I would like to purchase some of the grease
contact me at metalshaper@comcast.net and I can send you a lube list .
Really cool and useful.
You sound like Christian Slater 😂😂 I can't un-hear this 😂😂 -- Great Video 👍🏻
Anybody too bored to learn should just stick with cat videos. Great info Brian.
thanks for watching.
I'm doing a restore on my 54 3B -- the front section of the axle and the bearings all came out while the longer section remained in the axle shaft. Is that normal when you are disassembling each end of the front axle to rebuild them or is there a problem with the axle so it needs to be replaced? Thanks -- Your videos and instructions are absolutely the best!
The axle joint is probably worn out and will need to be looked at carefully to see where the wear is . Pull everything apart and inspect it so you can decide what to do, reassemble and use original joint or replace with modern spicer type joint.
I decided to try remove a shim on the top kingpin bearing on my CJ5 and I noticed oil dripping out of the knuckle. Removed the back felt pad cover plates and I can see oil in the felt pad. I guess this means I need to look at the seals in the axle tubes? This means I need to get the Dana axle out and open her up? I guess this is bad if I have oil in the axle tubes?
Any suggestions for a good Jeep parts supllier that ships internationally. I live in South Africa.
Thanks for posting your videos. You can be really proud of what you do as it helps alot of people like me.
Keep up the good work!
Mike, the entire knuckle has lube in it so the felt will have a little lube on it. What you don't want is lube leaking into the tubes from the differential housing. If your level is getting low then you know it is leaking past your seals and into the tubes. A little leak isn't too bad but if it gets worse you should get in there and change the seals. You will need to remove brakes, hubs, axleshafts, carrier and ring gear, etc.... to get at the seals. Follow along with my videos step by step and you shouldn't have any trouble.
you can try Peter Debella Jeep Parts at 631874 8660 or look him up on the internet. If he won't ship overseas contact me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net and I will get you the parts you need.
Thanks for clearing this up Brian.
So it did start leaking when I took the top kingpin out but wasn't leaking before, so I guess I opened up something there and there may have been some oil in the knuckle.
I wonder if this oil is causing any bearing preload to fly out the door and add to my dealth wobble woes?
Thanks for the info and the advice, I will prefer to work with you directly.
Thank you also for offering to help.
Just thinking about my actions now, I had to heat the tie rod steering arm hole and smack it with a hammer to get it loose. This action may have twisted the axle in the seals and caused some fluid to be released. Not sure how much oil is allowed in the knuckle, just trying to think if it was because of my action that the oil leaked. Guess I am trying to overthink this now.
Just took the front knuckle apart and it seems I should be able to get those axle seals in without having to remove the entire front axle drive.
The axle shafts slide right out and if I remove the diff cover and strip then I can get to those inner axle seals the way you could on the bench.
I just need to make me one of your great seal seaters and I should be away.
Just a quick question: Are the front and the rear axle tube seals the same? I intend to redo my back axle drive soon too so I might as well get all the seals I require upfront. And some of your magic bearing grease.
Thanks for all the help.
Mike, the seals can be replaced with the axle in the vehicle with no problems. They are pressed in from the inside though so the carrier has to come out for you to remove and replace them. Just make sure you install them squarely in the bore and don't distort them when installing them.
I'm interested in some of this knuckle lube. Rebuilding the knuckles on my 1944 MB.
contact me at metalshaper@comcast.net and I can send you a lubricant list.
Brian
Just would like to buy some summer lube for knuckle thanks Dennis
contact me at metalshaper@comcast.net and I will send you a list with prices and ordering information.
Brian
Thanks for the video how do I contact you to get the correct knuckle grease for my 46 Willys jeep? Thanks Rick
contact me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net
I jumped the gun and put on the seals. I'm getting around a 20 pull. Should I remove the seals and redo? Or do you think it would be close with them on?
yes, remove the seals. You must read the scale with no seals, just the knuckle and bearings to get it right.
great video. just happen to be at this point on my old cj5. was going to use cornhead in knuckle but am .more interested in your lube and would like to know how to purchase it
contact me at metalshaper@comcast.net and I will send you a lubricant list and ordering information.
Brian
Thanks for the videos !! Would like to see better lighting... Some parts are dark.
interesting, so for my stock axles I purchased the stronger steering knuckle that you are using (has the additional bracing) for my 47 2a dana 25 but I did not get any different bearing caps. I can use my stock 2a bearing caps and just shim the top?
If you have the later knuckles then you can just shim the top cap. The bottom boss will already have the extra .058" material added to it. So shim the top only and get the proper preload on the bearings.
ShnitzlHaus
Brian would should you do if you have a 2a you had to install a washer under the top bearing? Do I still need to split the shim pack equally between the top and bottom?
if you have to use a washer to get your preload you probably won't have too big a shim pack. You can split it if you have enough small shims or do whatever you need to get your proper preload.
Fair enough thanks for answering
Brian a couple things I'm putting in the knuckle lube with a pastry bag. How much goes in ? Is there a torque spec for the knuckle seal bolts. Thanks Mike
After watching this video I am wondering if the new spindles with new spindle bushing vary in size. Mine did and I had to hone until the spindle bushing fit nicely on both front axels.After reassembling everything the snap ring that holds the warn hub will not go on. Even after pulling and prying the axel outwards through the knuckle. Could the spindle bushing flange be too thick and not allowing the axel to move outwards to get the snap ring on? This snap ring holds the warn hubs in place.
Michael
I would like to purchase some of your summer blend knuckle grease
New at these old model Jeeps... If I understand correctly I have an early 2a front in my new to me 57 wagon... (The steering arm is the upper kingpin)... Can I swap out for the later 3a knuckle?
We have a 1950 Willys CJ3 that we are trying to get running. the front axle pinion gear WILL NOT come out! Everything is out but it. Tried the hammer, even a small sludge. Nothing is budging this thing. I don't see a way to remove the axle housings from the sides. Don't have a huge press. Was going to try to take axle housings off to take to a commercial shop. Like I said, Yoke and oil seal are off. Spider gears are out. What next without destroying it?
Sometimes they can be stubborn, best to take it to a professional to get the pinion out, so you don't damage anything.
What is the torque when tightening the hub bolts, bearing caps, knuckle oil seal retainer, wheel spindle, and wheel?
What are your thoughts on using a locker on the front dana 27 with a stock engine? The stock shafts hold up or still break? Working on a 48 willys truck to do some mild trail running and logging roads didnt know if the 27 would work or just upgrade to a cj dana 30
I have run lockers in the 27 before and didn't have any trouble, but it all depends on how you drive. The axles are not super strong to begin with but if you don't abuse them and drive carefully a locker won't be a problem. I have used the lockrite lockers with good results in the past.
as I said earlier a locker will be fine in the 27 if your driving is easy. Rock crawling or heavy mud will be a problem and you might want to upgrade. A 30 is better but a 44 would be a better axle if you plan on any type of rock crawling or mud. You can reach me at metalshaper@comcast.net for lubrication or any other questions.
Brian
When do you think you will have the next assy. step? that's exactly where I am now on my FC
did you ever do a video on finishing the front axle rebuild
With new bearings and races installed and torqueing to 35 lbs, after 7 attempts I am at zero shims on either side and barely managing 11-12 lbs on the left knuckle and 9 on the right knuckle. Guess I'm gonna have to go the washer route as those numbers are not gonna be good enough for me. A question. As I'm sticking with the 9" brakes should I have the brake hose guard installed on the top king pin for this? On the plus side the knuckle lubricant that I purchased from you looks like it's gonna work awesome. (Highly recommend it)
you don't need the guard on there for setting the torque, but when you have everything the way you like it install the guard so you can hook up your brake hose and hard line correctly. The knuckle lube will work great in all temperatures, it took a long time to develop and has been working perfectly for many years.
Terrific demo, thanks. Do you have a website that lists all the different lubricants you carry with prices etc. ?
contact me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net and I can send you a lubricant list.
Brian
@@metalshaperJeep great - will do.
what weight is the winter lithium grease please
Very informative about the different axles. My question is what is the fit of the axle shaft and the bushing in the spindle. I have new bronze bushings with a 1.265" id. The axle shaft is 1.23" dia. Thats 35 thou smaller. Is that the correct fit for a bushing? I know it runs more on the face of the bushing, but it still seems very loose.
all the new bushings are larger than they should be. I like the fit to be very close, not too tight to to bind but a nice fit. I always try to find NOS parts or make my own. Find yourself a local machinist and you can have them machine you a new set if you don't like the clearance of the new parts.
I have a 1970 M38A1 CDN3 and it seems the original bushings in the spindles are the same size as the replacements. I wonder if they changed the design and made them larger in later years.@@metalshaperJeep
How can I get ahold of you to order some of the knuckle lube for my CJ5.?
Could the ball end where the bearings are be bent vertically and cause the lack of shimming to get the preload and cause the ball to be egg shaped?
not usually. If the axle area is bent where the bearing goes then there is a big problem. On a recent axle build I did it came in with the U joint exploded into many pieces. There was enough damage to break off the upper part of the knuckle where the bearing sits. Axle was junk.
Brian, great stuff, I will e-mail you. I have 5 M-38s. Need lots of help
When did the CJ-5 change from a closed front knuckle to an open knuckle? Mine, a 1977 CJ-5, had open knuckles.
The CJ's changed from closed to open knuckles in 1972.
Hey Brian,
Apologies if I am jamming up this video page with comments and questions.
I just wish to ask you if I need to set my kingpin bearing preload without the seal and the felt and cover plates in place?
How much moly-d must the knuckle have inside?
Thanks to the info in your videos I am alot further on with this overhaul.
Just about to put the axle back once I have the preload set!
The preload is set without any seals in place. Just the bare knuckle on the kingpins. As far as lube goes it is best to fill the knuckle about half way up with lube. it should be just about at the bottom of the tube opening. I usually then pack some lube into the U joint area and install it into the housing.
Your videos have been a saviour for me, thanks for all the hard work you are putting into making them.
My frontend is finally back in and ready for testing!
What lubricant do you recommend for 1973 ford f250 4x4 front dana 44 closed knuckle? I heard seals are hard to get for it and regular lube typically leaks out.
contact me at metalshaper@comcast.net and I can send you a lubricant list.
Brian I purchased your knuckle lubes, it's blue? Just getting ready to put the axle together. Is the blue lube you sent me ok to use. Northern Michigan mostly non winter driving.
Thanks Mike
yes, that is the correct lube. Did you get your engine/distributor figured out yet???
Brian yes I did it ended up for some reason the oil pump would not fully except the distributor shaft. Thanks
Brian; Will the CJ3a and the CJ3b steering knuckles interchange with the CJ2a/MB?....Hal
They will work fine on your CJ2A. The MB used a knuckle and bolt on steering arm, the knuckle will work but not look correct.
hey metalshaper, which of the three axel shafts is most likely to go on a dana 27A, and it is on a 71 cj5
spicer
Hey Brian. I would appreciate your thoughts on the seals...more specifically, what brand/part numbers for the front inner and pinion seals? I ordered some, but I think they are Crown or Omix-ADA, made in China and look pretty flimsy. Any concerns with these or suggestions?
I don't use Omix parts any longer. I used to be a distributor for them when I sold parts but they don't care about quality just cheap parts and making a buck. I use National oil seals for most stuff. Inner seals are 40576S and I have been using them for years with no trouble. Pinion seals are also national 5778.
Opened up the right side knuckle and not a drop of oil, just good grease
Did some further reading and apparently I have whats known as a goopy knuckle on the left side. That's what you get when the inner oil seal goes and that's not good at all. It loosens up the knuckle too much. Now looking for a spring scale to do the bearing preload. Wish I had more tools now......
ok, so I used a 1/2 inch galvanised pipe with a 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch expander fitting (ground down on the grinder to fit into the tube) on the end to go into the axle tubes to tap out the axle races and the seals. Axle races and new seals are in place now. Ala' Mike the Mechanic style. Used a 36mm socket and galvanised pipe to tap the races and the seals into their seats.
Mike Bondi ,
According to this post, it’s been three months and I hope you got your king pin bearings set up with the right preload. If not, we just did mine yesterday with the scale I bought and I can send it to you if you still need it. It’s exactly the one that Brian recommended.
hi a need front jeep semibacker with ten stretch marks
Brian: I have a VEC 2A. Do you have the same shims on both the top and bottom equally?
If you have a axle with shims on top and bottom then put it back that way. I always start with .058" shim pack on the bottom and then shim the top for bearing preload. On later axles there was a .058" change to the cap and shims on top only, which is why that size shim pack is a good place to start. In the end you want the proper bearing preload, and if you have to change shims around to do it that is fine.
After setting the preload at 15 lbs of pull the knuckle feels good. Then installed the seal and felt and torqued the retainer to 12 lbs the knuckle is very tight. Hard to move. Is this normal?I did the process twice,,same result. Please comment.
Yes, knuckle will feel much tighter after you install seal, that is why it is adjusted to the proper pull by itself.
It's so tight you can barely move the knuckle on the bearing axis?
@@stevenbillings1620 When you installed the knuckle seals did you install dry or add some lubricant to the seal surfaces? Some times when installed dry they are very hard to turn. Add some lube and cycle the knuckle back and forth a few times and it should loosen up.
Thank you very much for your videos! I have cj2a dana 25 front end I'm repairing from spindle bolts pulled out and I broke the outer bendix axle universal joint(large ball bearings). The problem I have is that my outer axles have the threaded ends and all the ones I can find don't have the treads. Do you have the correct out axle? Or do I need to have one machined?
Oh, I did forget to mention that it has Warn free wheeling hubs. I also have flanged bushings in the spindles and OD tapered bushing in the knuckle.
I would get a complete axle for your project. You can check the internet, ebay, jeep forums etc... and should be able to find the correct unit for your project.
Would a johndeere cornhead grease be a good substitute for these steering knuckles?
No. If you are interested in the correct lubricant for the knuckles contact me at metalshaper@comcast.net
Brian
Brian what is the shelf life of your knuckle lube?
40 years sitting on a shelf. 25 years when installed into the knuckle and used. if you drive thru water crossings regularly then it is recommended to change it if water gets in the knuckle.
I would like to buy some lubricants for steering knuckle bearings and lub for my steering box thanks
Me too - anyone know a link or contact info to buy your special knuckle lubricant?
hi there thanks for your advice Spot on! I need some lube oil for my rebuilt gear box (t90) how do I get it ? I live in England ??
you can email me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net
thanks, Brian
will a 3A knuckle and hub work on a 2A diff. ? I'm wanting to beef up my 2A axle with Spicer joint axles and lock out warn hubs
yes
@@metalshaperJeep Thank you so much ! how do I order the Spicer joint axles ? is there a part number ? Here in Central Florida there's a Spicer dealer not far from me .. But I don't know how to order the correct Spicer joint for my D25 would you educate me ? I sure do like your videos ! Thanks so much Lee Harrison
Do you know if I can use the stronger 3A knuckle on the 2A? Thanks.
Sorry should have finished watching vid before asking.
what about the rzeppa axle?
How can I get some for a Dana 25 knuckle?
contact me at metalshaper@comcast.net
Brian
Hi Metalshaper - I am rebuilding a couple of 1946 CJ2A, and am currently stuck with a problem at the front axle. I replaced my old Bendix axles for Spicers and am putting everything together for a fit test. I am finding that I cannot fully mount the passenger spindle to the steering knuckle. It sticks out about 1/4 inch and even light torque binds the axel noticeably. Q: Is it possible that this spicer axle is 'too long'? (i.e. not the correct axel for my dana 25), or that the inner bushing is incorrect?
FYI - The driver-side fits together perfectly, so I am thoroughly confused what is happening with the passenger side axle.
Check to be sure the axles are the same length as the Bendix axles that you removed. if they are the same, check the spindle bushing. Let me know if you have just a bushing or a flanged bushing in there. could be that the spindle bushing is giving you the problem. Give me as much information as you can and we will get to the bottom of this problem.
Brian
@@metalshaperJeep Thanks! I see that the Spicer axle is 22", but the Bendix is 21 3/8". This is probably the issue. I didn't know there were multiple versions of the axle.
I would like to replace the axle bushing. Can you tell me a good way to pull this? Do I require special tools?
I would also like to buy some of your ale lube. It seems great!
where did you find the old style oil seals with metal on both sides?
you can get the seals from Pete DeBella Jeep Parts. 631 874 8660 . He has the seals and many other NOS parts.
How do I get a gallon of your 'summer' front axle knuckle lube?
Ask in a bicycle shop for a workshop Tub of white lithium grease. It's designed to prevent metal to metal contact while providing minimum static friction. Used for racing bicycle wheel bearings.
i need lub. for 1960 willy picnuk for year around
contact me at metalshaper@comcast.net and I can send you a list.
Please send me some all season all year round lubrication for newly rebuild knuckles
Contact me at metalshaper@comcast.net and I can get you set up with what you need.
Brian
Can't find your email address, but I'm interested in the knuckle lube you were discussing, a year round set up. How would I get order info and price for this?
contact me at metalshaper@comcast.net and I can send you a list of lubricants that I have for sale.
Brian
Why not put shorter bolts in the top bearing.
Original bolts used in case the customer goes back to the original brake system in the future.
That would be an option, but I believe the engineers were probably trying to account for the thickness of the shim pack. 1-1/2 turns is about the thickness of a full set of shims. It sure is unfortunate that the Tech Manual never got corrected. I'm sure there are many trucks out there with jammed up bearings because of it. I'm confident many motor pool mechanics transitioned over from the MBs and GPWs to the M38s and knew what they were doing without worrying too much about the content of the TM but, for those of us who rely on the TMs...not so much.
i need to place a lubricant order, please.
contact me at metalshaper@comcast.net
Brian
I have already sent you a list with prices, what do you need?
Do you have a facebook page?
No I am not on facebook. I am just getting into the tech world and so far youtube is the only place I am posting things. Feel free to spread my videos around if you think anyone on facebook might like them. Thanks for watching and commenting. Keep watching, many more videos coming.
Well for not being "Techy" Your videos are outstanding. Pretty awesome to find a legit Jeep restoration guy on UA-cam. You can see thousands of videos on random muscle cars but your channel is unique!
Thanks again for the comment. after many years in the restoration business I have decided to show how things are done. Hoping to pass along some skills to the next generation. Keep watching, lots more coming.
Where do you buy your lubes?
My lubricants are only available thru me. I have developed them with a major lubrication company and have an agreement that I am the only distributor of my special blends.
metalshaper what website or phone number? How do I order them?
@@rickmilam contact me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net and I can send you a price list.
What is the email I can contact you at for different blends of grease for knuckles and more
contact me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net
Brian
Excellent ! - I subscribed but do you have a website, and how do I get your email address? interested in trying your fluids. 1950 CJ3A. Ray
you can contact me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net
Thank You Sir!
Nice and thank you but.....you don't need to say everything 3 times.
Имею таких два атомобиля в Украине ,один Виллис МА,1941Г.В,ВТОРОЙ МВ,1943Г.В.готовые к реставрации,комплектные,в оригинале,а также имеются новые ,оригинальные запчасти к ним ,еще41...45г.в
bom
Yes you sent me once your product list of what you sell could you please sell it send the list to me at my email