Willys Hubs, How To Properly Install. CJ2A Axles Finished!!!
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- Опубліковано 28 лис 2024
- In this video I am going to finish up the CJ2A front and rear axle assemblies. I will show you the proper way to install a rear hub and also how to grease and adjust the front hub. Finally a look at the completed project, a Dana 41 and Dana 25 rebuilt to factory specs.
These videos are a national treasure
I grew up driving a 1952 Willys Overland 4x4 pick up starting at age 13 on the farm. It was 1960 and it was a magical truck since we had never had a pick up before. It had the five bar chrome grill and the F-Head Hurricane four cylinder later replaced by a 1953 161 six cylinder Hurricane out of a 1953 Willys Aero automobile. There were thousands of adventures with it. Nothing will ever compare to driving an old Willys 4x4. True freedom. Those that never experienced one just can’t know. Brian, your “school” must be the best Jeep school on the planet. Yes it’s possible to drive a 513 gear 65 miles an hour with the front of the engine suspended across the fenders by a two by four on the way to the welding shop.
Hello Karl, great to hear from you again and your tales of driving the Willys Pickup Truck. Happy New Year to you and yours. A quick ride in a Willys does bring back True Freedom that you speak about. Wish everybody could have a ride in an old jeep, the experience is like nothing else. Hope all is well, thanks as always for watching and commenting.
Brian
On the bearing packer. If you give a turn with your palm while pressing down, it more thoroughly packs the bearing and gets the grease in all the nooks and crannies of the bearing and rollers.
Your a life saver man. Keep your videos up please I know its as lot of work, but anyone who has worked on a jeep appreciate it
I really appreciate you taking the time to make these videos for those of us too far away to come see you at your shop. I try to watch the commercial so that you get more income.
Thanks Brian, enjoyed as always! As I said before, all of Brian's practices are right in line with what we do in heavy industry every day, for any doubters. Take care and stay warm! Will
Always good to have you watching, thanks for the positive words.
Brian
Hi Brian you done a great job clear explanation. I do appreciate your way to introduce things you are a good teacher 👍🇩🇰
Real nice job. I am amazed that so many people get this assembly wrong 👍👍👍👍
Thank you for the video you just took me back 50 years ya you got it doing this with my Father and now after 25 years of the same Willy's 1946 CJ 2A sitting as yard art I am trying to get it back on the road for my grand kids to [lay with.... Oh how funny my Father was one of them people who used a chisel to remove them nuts but that was most common in the 1960's ....
Thank you so much for the videos. I have owned by CJ2A for 28 years and have always done my own work. After watching your videos I came to realize that my motor manual has left out a lot of important information.
My problem is with my left rear hub. My Jeep as tapered axles. I recently replaced the seals on all four
wheels. When I removed the left rear hub the nut took no effort to loosen and the hub came of with very little
effort. I measured the hub and axle and compared them to the other side and found that the left hub was more worn than the right. I ordered a replacement hub for the left side. When I install the new hub on the axle as you prescribe in your video, it seats but when I tighten it at all with a wrench it tightens to the point that it rubs on the brake backing plate. When I install the new hub on the opposite side it fits just fine.
I don't understand how this can be since the axles measure the same. I would appreciate your thoughts before I go to the expense and work to install a new axle. Is it possible that the key has worn to where it is out of specs?
Thank you
something is worn out or your purchased a reproduction hub that is out of spec. I see that a lot with cheap imported parts. You will have to start measuring things and install a new key for sure.
Thanks dude. I’m losing all my cj2a websites, you are the last few left!
Let me know if there is anything you would like me to cover in a video.
Great step by step info along with what will happen if you go off script!! I have seen much the same--the worst I seen was the axle welded to the flange!! Excellent tip on adding some grease to the inside of the seal to ensure the spring stays put. I will put that tip to use!!
Thanks for watching and glad you picked up some tips from my video. Many more coming soon.
Great job! Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Thank you for the detail in this video. I recently bought a 1942 Ford GPW, same as a Willys MB, I wanted something simple to learn on and have always loved the flat fender jeeps. I had no experience going in so I've done a lot of research before tackling each job on it and being female, I've had a lot of men just laugh at me when I try to get information. While the set up mine has is a bit different than this one, the bearings and washers are the same and I've also got those Warn Gold hubs, so thanks again for the help, much appreciated!!
I have plenty of videos on Willys Jeep restoration so hopefully you can find the information you need as you move thru the rebuild process. Reach out if you need any specific information and good luck with your project.
Brian
@@metalshaperJeep Brian I'm hoping I can pick your brain about an issue I'm having. The brake drums I have are one piece with the hubs attached, I sent those to a friend and had them turned and he also installed the races for me. I have one drum that seats properly and the other three sit out away from the backing plate more. I can actually see the edge of the brake shoes in the gap. My friend has told me to get the wheels on it and the weight will help seat it further, also to run it about 20 miles then go back in and torque the spindle nuts again. I'm not confident that I should do that. Do you have any insight as to what might be wrong here? The brake shoes are adjusted in and not contacting the drums.
@@carafredrickson2145 something is wrong, don't drive it or retorque it right now. Contact me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net and send me some photos of your hub/drum setup. After I see it I may need to ask some questions about your installation but I am sure we can figure out what is happening. Again, don't drive or do anything right now.
Brian
I’ve really enjoyed following along with these axles. The speed of your teaching and your explanations are just right to be able to absorb everything as you go. Even when you repeat something from an old video it’s good because I don’t do this stuff all the time and it’s a good reminder so I don’t forget. How do you determine the amount of extra brake line you leave in a U near the spring brackets? Is that how they did it from the factory? Also, I’d like to see your method of flaring the brake lines. I always have mixed success getting it right
Here is the link to Brian's brake line flaring video. ua-cam.com/video/JgKZ4hy6cho/v-deo.html
the brake lines I made for this axle were and exact replica of the originals. Be sure to watch my brake line flaring video on how to make the perfect flare in stainless steel.
Thank you for the advice. Would you tell me what the part number is for the seal?
I was given two partial jeeps last year, in pieces. I think one 2a and one 3a, not certain yet but after this video I promptly discovered a crack in my left front hub. (dangit) So put the keys in correctly like the doctor says! I happen to be self trained on old VW's and a 67 M715 and an old GMC 6x6. Old school RULES! I will say that my old jeep came to me with lots of new parts in the drive train. Here goes...
Yes my front axle nuts had chisel marks on every flat. I figure that they were circa 1975 marks...I'm ok w/ chisel marks, I'm a poor mountain boy too. But the split hub... A shame the former owner didn't have any Metaleshaper access back then! Thanks Mr Shaper.
Spring toward the oil or grease. Great info. Thanks
Keep watching always more tips and tricks coming
@@metalshaperJeep I just received new seals from Kaiser Willys. no springs in them...is it ok like that?
@@bugnfront I don't like seals without springs in them, and always buy the better and more expensive ones that have springs. Your seal should be fine but if it leaks the cheaper price won't really matter.
Very helpful I know it is old, but what lockwashers on the warn hub bolts? Don’t look like the original tab style, what do you use?
Love the video. I need all the help I can find on UA-cam. Question: I have a 1957 CJ5 and I am replacing all of the drum brakes etc. Is the bearing cone and the bearing seal the same size fo inner and outer for the front hubs?
I put a new set a axles in my Dana 25. Inserted the Tighten down the six bolts in our Axle did not move or rotate. Loosen the 6 bolts got it to move haven’t been back to it but apparently for the new Axle I need shims now. No shims on tear down. ??
Brian, great info. Putting bearings and hubs on my 1951 M38. Has Dana 25 front axle and a Dana 44 rear axle. Are the torque values for the M38 Dana 44 and the CJ2A Dana 41 on the rear axle nut the same?
Some nice information thanks
thanks for watching.
I have an M 38 A1 my question is about the key on the rear axle with the brake drum and the wheel studs all together on the Dana 44 axle. Do I put the drum on then slide the key in or is it okay to put the key on the axle and then the drum over it I noticed the key goes in further
Dads 60 cj 5 didnt have warn hubs but the first time I had to change the drivers steer tire I got the left handed nuts off fine but the rim wouldn't slide past the hub and cap I ended up removing the hub bolts and washers and trimming a flat side on the hub bolt washers to clear the rims going on and off the unit after they worked fine but I never had the outer hub off the axle is that common
My M38A1 Jeep rear hub is crack due to not proper fixing Axel key ( cotter) may I weld the creck hub may it work of course I will replace it but I'm in a small City right now for some time here hub is not available ,the creck is not so big it is working just for safety I want to weld the creck hub need your opinion about welding.
Good video thanks for sharing.
Brian, on front axle you put some grease inside hubs. Should I put grease inside hubs on back axle also or just put it around seal where hub seats like you did in video. Great information as always. Thanks
No grease inside the rear hub, just a little bit around the seal area
@@metalshaperJeep ok thanks very much for your reply. Keep the videos coming can thank you enough.
What drums do you use,side on would be better
Thank you so much
Good stuff … except ? I don’t like the rather big loops you’ve left in the steel brake lines ….crossing snaggly tree branch ground there’s always the possibility of a branch getting up thru one of those loops and ripping a brake pipe off ?
Brake lines are an exact copy of the original. There needs to be room left to get the ubolts over the axle. Then lines are pushed close to the ubolts as original.
Putting new hubs,studs and drums on a 70 cj5. Do I have to swedge the studs into the drums making the hub and drum one unit or can the studs just be pressed into the hubs making servicing the brakes easier? THANKS for any guidance.
No swedge needed on your 1970. Your drum goes outside of the hub and is designed to be easily removed without the hub. Swedge is only needed when drum is behind the hub.
very interesting, thankyou
Always glad to have you watching, thanks.
Brian
I like your video help me out with your tips I just got my 1946 c2j jeep I need lots of help with it think you
How to install a Bendix axle on a 1942 Willy’s mb that has a so called snap ring type spline but no groove for a snap ring. Do I have the wrong axle? I don’t know how to adjust end play without a drive hub shims and nut. Can you give me any help?
Would this procedure be the same for a 42 Willys MB?
yes
Does anyone know the torque spec or proper procedures to shim/ torque hub nuts? The one with the cotter pin that holds the axle in place?
I'm interested in getting the axle lube you spoke about in other videos, how do I reach out to you to get this?
You can reach me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net
Brian
On your replacement wheel studs, do you have a source or a part number? I am going to be doing a disc brake conversion and will need all new studs. Thanks
I'm not sure if it will help you or not but I just finished a rear disc conversion on an FC-150 (CJ-5 platform) I'm building, the studs that were sent with the kit were too short for the aftermarket wheels I'm using. I sourced some slightly longer 1/2-20 studs from a local NAPA store P.N. 641-4260.
sdxtech I can get you the Napa part number tomorrow if you want
What is the name of the hub grease you are using please. John
contact me directly and I can send you a list of lubricants that I have developed for these early Willys.
metalshaper@comcast.net
Brian
Dear sir, what is the name of the store and the address that sells the same grease tray that are used
Or, GEARWRENCH Hand Bearing Packer - 2775D
Funny thing, the old owner problly died on the spot when the driver side hub cracked, cause there's no axle shaft on the other side! lol. ILove my new Frankenstien. Last week I would have traded it for a brokedown side by side. This week it's not for sale.
These old Willys have a way of becoming part of the family real quick.
Thank you so much for this very important information. Can I move house near you . John
Any time
I get a lot of boaters that don't know how to fix there transmission or they put there SEAL in back wards or don't even know how to put it back together.