Nice work Matt. You might want to add a lanyard ( paracord?) to the key for the switch. Otherwise you WILL lose the key. Just long enough to keep it under the seat when its not in use. Shonky workmanship from Rhino though.
If you can find a decent magnet (magnets from old computer hard drives work great) and epoxy that to a lanyard/zip-tie/etc that'll be strong enough to hold it in place wherever you decide to store it, even going over rough roads at high speeds.
I thought Rino was a Good Product you proved me wrong, I'll keep that in Mind. Fabulous Mods , make it like you want it, you can make a better box for it.Save you time and headaches in the future. Kudos
To solder those terminals I fill up the cup with crappy bits of solder and hang it over the gas cooker till its roasted then shove in the cable . It spills a bit but does the job and you can stil whack it with your punch. nice winch. Cheers
Nothing is ever simple. Plan A never survives contact with the enemy. Plan B usually doesn't fare much better. But in the words from the movie Galaxy Quest, "Never give up, never surrender!" Love the vids!
G'day just thought I would share something my Father used to say to me😉😊👍👍 "Forget about time, concentrate on the job at hand, it will be done before you know it." Over the past 38yrs as 3rd gen Engineer I put his theory to the test with jobs that were of a repetitive I hate doing it nature😊 Turns out he was right. I could get them out of the way in almost half the time if I forgot about the time LMAO 😉😊👍👍
Hi, Matt a little tip next time your fitting terminals to cable is after making a clean cut and stripping the insulation do not twist the cores, keep them straight and carefully put them into the lug, when you twist them the diameter gets a little bigger. I can't believe you had a blowlamp at hand and didn't solder the lugs. Another good job out of the way.
Reckon at some stage we going to be watching a video of you remaking the winch electrics box out of nice thick tig welded alloy sheet?, you could make it way way better than the pretty crappy box it comes with.
Nice workmanship in the electrical box there from the factory! Reminds me of the last batch of rovers made when the workers had all been told they were out of a job soon. Place I worked at bought about 500 of them as a bargain job lot. Window mechanisms in with one bolt fitted and the other three chucked inside the doors, rear wiper motors the same. Dozens of trim clips in the heater fans. Lovely. Did get a few of those rear wheel drive converted ford V8 powered rover 75's ( even one estate) and the MG versions of the same. They were cool. Drifted well. Tiny bilsteins on the nose of the rear diff to stop it winding up. Apparently the dudes at the factory had a problem with the prototype ones until they got one of the lads to do a burnout on the four poster while someone watched from underneath. There's British spirit right there. Thinking of which, your mongrel diff would be a viscous custard diff. Worse than an open one just as bad to drift and harder to weld up. I've got a nice plated LSD from a Monza all built up in an omega casing with two sets of shafts. Been tested on the road and around driftland in Mike Parnell's b234 omega. Works well, £200, a t shirt and a hoodie it's yours if you fancy giving it a try. The yanks use Cadillac CTS diffs in the LS engine converted flying Miata MX-5. Omega may well be similar? Make an interesting mongrel future proofing project while it's all out the car. 1uz and a holset? (Yes I do love saabs too for cheap bang for the buck but a turbo V8 surely something everyone dreams of?)
The first gen CTS-V diff's are extremely fragile and the second gen regular CTS isn't much better. The late model CTSV is pretty stout but they're not cheap and hard to find. The Ford 8.8 is really one of the most flexible, stout and easier diff's to swap into things. They come in independent and solid axle configuration, internals are everywhere and a tracloc limited slip is about 300$ USD from the Ford dealership.
Apparently this one has the decent diff in it? I haven't seen any custard leaking out yet but I will keep you posted on that. Cheers il keep that in mind.
I got a crimper for doing those sort of lugs off ebay for $28 AUD, so like 15 quid. At that sort of price its pretty handy to have around even if it only gets used for odd jobs
Matt, ditch the crappy solenoid & buy an Albright solenoid to control the winch. You can put it out of sight & just have the winch visible. You need minimum of 5 turns on winch drum when fully out so not to strain the bolt clamping the cable to drum. You can make a small webbing strap that goes onto the cable at 5th turn length put webbing on drum and wind the cable back to the bolt over the webbing. Before bolting put the cable through the end of loop & bolt back to drum. What is does is stops you pulling the cable off the drum & saved loads of time. A bit fiddle to setup but worth it. Ditch that crap plastic isolator & buy a proper 250+ amp isolator. I have seen those plastic ones melt with the current used with electric winches
For the control box Get some epoxy and glue the other post back in place so you can fit the second screw. Stuck with one screw it might break off the second post. And get some sticky tape Velcro and stick that other little box to the base for if you ever need to take it off later. At least it won’t be flopping around inside.
A little tip dont feed the wire with your hand use the hook as it you have a frayed cable it will hurt. You need at least one spool of wire on the drum to be safe. And hook it at the rear of the ramp saves winding it im and pulling it out all the time
Hiya Just a quick question, Before you fitted your battery isolator switch and you had it directed to battery from winch, Would your winch move itself?
Too late but always make sure you have at least 20ft extra cable past the back of the truck as you may find yourself winching a car bogged in a paddock. Carry a spare isolator as they too often shit them selves. Have used them on racecars for 40 years and killed probably a dozen. And these were Hella, not cheapy Chinese. Though currently I am using one of those with no problems. 6 litre 11-1 Ford.
I feel you would might eventually like to swap that plastic box for a metal one of your own design. Looks like you could reuse most of the component parts from the existing box in a new and improved one
How long was that cable before eh! Bloody hell, you could have reached the end of your county with that 😂 I was disappointed with the Rhino winch, I thought they were ok, apparently they had Monday or Friday British Leyland days at the Rhino factory making them then 😂 Nice wiring though 😉👍
@@Urchfab here's the link to that tool I've ordered facebook.com/234559810559083/posts/253502281998169/ UPDATE: IGNORE THIS LINK, IVE JUST FOUND OUT ITS A SCAM!!!
Those winches are for 4wds to pull them selves out of bogs. Hence the long cable. And as someone else said keep the excess, use proper cable clamps to add eyes then a D shackle to join them. Extra distance to pull cars out of the mud. Wiring was shitty I agree. I actually use my trailer winch on a towbar tongue too move dead cars. Or even trees!!
Matt , can you recommend a welding helmet that won’t break the bank , or any tips on actually seeing what I am welding lol . Struggling to see what I am doing tried all the settings on helmet .
its hard to recommend one as there's so many out there and it depends a lot on budget. But even a fairly budget helmet should be giving you a clear view.
I have used budget and now have a speedglas. I don't remember issues with seeing what I am welding. But the view on the speedglas before it darkens is far better.
You're slating the winch a bit but in fairness these are about £150 cheaper than the others. Which let's be honest, is probably why you bought it. I know that's why I bought mine!
little light on the dash would probably help to remind him to take the key out , drove a coupe of boxtrucks with a lift/ramp and that helped me a few times preventing a discharged battery another option might be to use the key to power the startermotor (cut the power to it) to insert the key you first have to take it out the other safety switch , kindah cheap anti theft device
seen a few adaptations to the cam where people put a little fake fur (they call it a death cat) over the mike hole , helps stopping a lot of the windnoise prolly can use double sided tape with a little hole punched through it to stick the fur ontoo the camera body ua-cam.com/users/results?search_query=fake+catfur+for+windnoise
What ever happened to quality control, hardly any way that you could recommend the product.Winch really not anywhere near your own standard of work. Nicely sorted Matt.
quality without the price tag baby :-) assembled by low education/gumption and low cost workers in what would be unbearable working conditions for any westerners . The workers simply haven't got time put it right or get smaller bowl of rice porridge from not keeping up output numbers . For under £300 they don't look too bad and unionmart hold spares . Might get a new plastic housing from them if got time moan & email them pics . Would prefer if they had a grub screw clamp in the drum over that eyelet . Any of this cheap stuff bit of a gamble, hopefully that only issue and you get good few years use :-/ 2yr warranty good if unionmart not dodgy tossers . Useful truck for little outlay, fair few hours in it but made good tube content :-)
Neat trick with the cable connectors. 5 minute jobs always take longer. Entertaining as always.
One thing I'd recommend doing is making a holder for the winch controller so it's out of the way and is easily located when you need it
Nice work Matt. You might want to add a lanyard ( paracord?) to the key for the switch. Otherwise you WILL lose the key. Just long enough to keep it under the seat when its not in use. Shonky workmanship from Rhino though.
If you can find a decent magnet (magnets from old computer hard drives work great) and epoxy that to a lanyard/zip-tie/etc that'll be strong enough to hold it in place wherever you decide to store it, even going over rough roads at high speeds.
The off roaders here in Western Australia should watch this.Great info.
All the little jobs take 3x as long as first thought...Love the show.
Nicely done Matt top tip of the day
Nice to see the recovery truck again, small mods are a great time saver good job buddy 👍
Vince and Howard are the best crimpers in my opinion.
Nice tip on cable lug. Thanks for sharing. : )
Impeccable craftsmanship, as always.
I thought Rino was a Good Product you proved me wrong, I'll keep that in Mind.
Fabulous Mods , make it like you want it, you can make a better box for it.Save you time and headaches in the future.
Kudos
When pulling off cable, never leave less than 3 full wraps on the drum.
Enjoy your videos.
Awesome, the Chinese winch got some much needed Urcafacation.
To solder those terminals I fill up the cup with crappy bits of solder and hang it over the gas cooker till its roasted then shove in the cable . It spills a bit but does the job and you can stil whack it with your punch. nice winch. Cheers
Nothing is ever simple. Plan A never survives contact with the enemy. Plan B usually doesn't fare much better. But in the words from the movie Galaxy Quest, "Never give up, never surrender!" Love the vids!
G'day just thought I would share something my Father used to say to me😉😊👍👍
"Forget about time, concentrate on the job at hand, it will be done before you know it."
Over the past 38yrs as 3rd gen Engineer I put his theory to the test with jobs that were of a repetitive I hate doing it nature😊
Turns out he was right.
I could get them out of the way in almost half the time if I forgot about the time LMAO 😉😊👍👍
I will give that a go. Cheers
Very true unless you're an inpatient twat like me,😂
@@koont666 which is why dad said it to me lmao😉😊👍👍
Egad! I am not a perfectionist but I sure hate it when I run into a job where the previous attempt is a bodge (sometimes mine). Isolator great idea!!!
Nice work as always Matt.
Hi, Matt a little tip next time your fitting terminals to cable is after making a clean cut and stripping the insulation do not twist the cores, keep them straight and carefully put them into the lug, when you twist them the diameter gets a little bigger.
I can't believe you had a blowlamp at hand and didn't solder the lugs. Another good job out of the way.
Nice tip on the cable ends.
It might have taken you a couple of hours Matt, but it was a proper done job!
Reckon at some stage we going to be watching a video of you remaking the winch electrics box out of nice thick tig welded alloy sheet?, you could make it way way better than the pretty crappy box it comes with.
I hope not mate, I'm getting pretty bored of working on the old thing now.
Nice job Matt. another job down lol. Cheers
Nice workmanship in the electrical box there from the factory! Reminds me of the last batch of rovers made when the workers had all been told they were out of a job soon. Place I worked at bought about 500 of them as a bargain job lot. Window mechanisms in with one bolt fitted and the other three chucked inside the doors, rear wiper motors the same. Dozens of trim clips in the heater fans. Lovely. Did get a few of those rear wheel drive converted ford V8 powered rover 75's ( even one estate) and the MG versions of the same. They were cool. Drifted well. Tiny bilsteins on the nose of the rear diff to stop it winding up. Apparently the dudes at the factory had a problem with the prototype ones until they got one of the lads to do a burnout on the four poster while someone watched from underneath. There's British spirit right there. Thinking of which, your mongrel diff would be a viscous custard diff. Worse than an open one just as bad to drift and harder to weld up. I've got a nice plated LSD from a Monza all built up in an omega casing with two sets of shafts. Been tested on the road and around driftland in Mike Parnell's b234 omega. Works well, £200, a t shirt and a hoodie it's yours if you fancy giving it a try. The yanks use Cadillac CTS diffs in the LS engine converted flying Miata MX-5. Omega may well be similar? Make an interesting mongrel future proofing project while it's all out the car. 1uz and a holset? (Yes I do love saabs too for cheap bang for the buck but a turbo V8 surely something everyone dreams of?)
The first gen CTS-V diff's are extremely fragile and the second gen regular CTS isn't much better. The late model CTSV is pretty stout but they're not cheap and hard to find. The Ford 8.8 is really one of the most flexible, stout and easier diff's to swap into things. They come in independent and solid axle configuration, internals are everywhere and a tracloc limited slip is about 300$ USD from the Ford dealership.
Apparently this one has the decent diff in it? I haven't seen any custard leaking out yet but I will keep you posted on that.
Cheers il keep that in mind.
Good job on winch I love ❤️ your video 📷 the are best
I got a crimper for doing those sort of lugs off ebay for $28 AUD, so like 15 quid. At that sort of price its pretty handy to have around even if it only gets used for odd jobs
Install a breaker vs a fuse. Needs a reset instead of traveling with spare fuses.
Find a nut that has a smaller I D than the terminal lug, cut it in half and use it in the vice to crimp the lug onto the wire works even better
Enjoyed that, thanks --
Matt, ditch the crappy solenoid & buy an Albright solenoid to control the winch. You can put it out of sight & just have the winch visible. You need minimum of 5 turns on winch drum when fully out so not to strain the bolt clamping the cable to drum. You can make a small webbing strap that goes onto the cable at 5th turn length put webbing on drum and wind the cable back to the bolt over the webbing. Before bolting put the cable through the end of loop & bolt back to drum. What is does is stops you pulling the cable off the drum & saved loads of time. A bit fiddle to setup but worth it.
Ditch that crap plastic isolator & buy a proper 250+ amp isolator. I have seen those plastic ones melt with the current used with electric winches
Best way I've found for soldering battery cable terminals is to hold the ring end over the flame of a blowtorch (or gas bbq!).
Cabel crimper -use an bolt splitter with runded "punch" works on every size
Broken post can be fixed by drilling and screwing from outside the box.
For the control box Get some epoxy and glue the other post back in place so you can fit the second screw. Stuck with one screw it might break off the second post. And get some sticky tape Velcro and stick that other little box to the base for if you ever need to take it off later. At least it won’t be flopping around inside.
As an old towtruck driver you should of taken solder and melt it in the connecter then put your wire in it
A little tip dont feed the wire with your hand use the hook as it you have a frayed cable it will hurt. You need at least one spool of wire on the drum to be safe. And hook it at the rear of the ramp saves winding it im and pulling it out all the time
Yep ran my hand down a winch once with gloves on, caught a stray cable.. wont be doing that again!!
Ashley Burch yep tend to only do it once i ended up using a pvc pipe as a sleeve
How do you get your cable so tight?
Hiya Just a quick question, Before you fitted your battery isolator switch and you had it directed to battery from winch, Would your winch move itself?
Put on a syntetic line, easier to work whit.
i was also gonna suggest getting a set leather gloves the cable will fray and it hurts lol but a synthetic line would solve this too
Yeh I kinda wish I'd paid the extra and got that from the start.
Have a look on eBay for "synthetic winch rope". Much nicer to use than cable.
I always thought they were a good quality winch......obviously not, they should replace it for an un-broken one..... well done as always 👍
Nice vid as always. Good to be along on the other jobs, too. What size is the winch - capacity, I mean. Cheers.
13000 I think. Cheers
Too late but always make sure you have at least 20ft extra cable past the back of the truck as you may find yourself winching a car bogged in a paddock.
Carry a spare isolator as they too often shit them selves. Have used them on racecars for 40 years and killed probably a dozen. And these were Hella, not cheapy Chinese. Though currently I am using one of those with no problems. 6 litre 11-1 Ford.
Rhino says "Ouch". Poor Rhino.
I recrimp with a 10mm terminal on my winch cable if i need to shorten it
I feel you would might eventually like to swap that plastic box for a metal one of your own design. Looks like you could reuse most of the component parts from the existing box in a new and improved one
Something between those wires and the cab would keep them from rubbing and causing a short. Piece of tire or inner tube
on my truck i had my winch under the floor.i did to many winches in on top.
How long was that cable before eh! Bloody hell, you could have reached the end of your county with that 😂
I was disappointed with the Rhino winch, I thought they were ok, apparently they had Monday or Friday British Leyland days at the Rhino factory making them then 😂
Nice wiring though 😉👍
25 meters, yeh looks like it. Cheers
@@Urchfab here's the link to that tool I've ordered facebook.com/234559810559083/posts/253502281998169/ UPDATE:
IGNORE THIS LINK, IVE JUST FOUND OUT ITS A SCAM!!!
Those winches are for 4wds to pull them selves out of bogs. Hence the long cable. And as someone else said keep the excess, use proper cable clamps to add eyes then a D shackle to join them. Extra distance to pull cars out of the mud.
Wiring was shitty I agree.
I actually use my trailer winch on a towbar tongue too move dead cars. Or even trees!!
See you use some Mikita tools, thinking about getting their cordless grinder is it any good? Or just go Milwaukee..?
I have a cordless makita and its about as much use as a junior hacksaw. Its one of the early ones though so I'm sure they've come along a bit now.
Matt , can you recommend a welding helmet that won’t break the bank , or any tips on actually seeing what I am welding lol . Struggling to see what I am doing tried all the settings on helmet .
its hard to recommend one as there's so many out there and it depends a lot on budget. But even a fairly budget helmet should be giving you a clear view.
I have used budget and now have a speedglas. I don't remember issues with seeing what I am welding. But the view on the speedglas before it darkens is far better.
Souldve used the copper end of a battery cable
Where are the rollers on the deck so the cable isn't dragging on the deck itself?
The only rollers are the big ones underneath.
The into music goes with the” I am a vegan you are a loser” vegetable police intro song.
put a cord on the magic red key or it'll go inter-dimensional
No, I want to see more of the mongrel. Pretty please.
Soon mate, soon.
Donkeys assemble winches?
You try assembling something with a massive horn sticking out between your eyes and no fingers.... must be a nightmare!
You might be happy hanging you're weight off it but I'm bit sure I would be! 😂 😂 I'm not about 10 stone soaking wet like you though
I think I would have moved that electrical box to a custom mount and left the cable alone.
You're slating the winch a bit but in fairness these are about £150 cheaper than the others. Which let's be honest, is probably why you bought it. I know that's why I bought mine!
put a braided wire on your red key or you will lose it , or were did I put it //
little light on the dash would probably help to remind him to take the key out , drove a coupe of boxtrucks with a lift/ramp and that helped me a few times preventing a discharged battery
another option might be to use the key to power the startermotor (cut the power to it) to insert the key you first have to take it out the other safety switch , kindah cheap anti theft device
@@watahyahknow the red key is only for the winch .I know with stock cars & race cars if you do not leg rope it goes missing //
That box on the winch was a lame assed way to send it. But like always, you sort that shit out and make it good! 👍cheers!
seen a few adaptations to the cam where people put a little fake fur (they call it a death cat) over the mike hole , helps stopping a lot of the windnoise prolly can use double sided tape with a little hole punched through it to stick the fur ontoo the camera body
ua-cam.com/users/results?search_query=fake+catfur+for+windnoise
I fear that when you remove all of the rust there wont be anything left but the roll cage
Y don't u just soldier those in?
Would he end up with a 'military' grade connection then ? 😀
HOLA !
Island Times holaa
What ever happened to quality control, hardly any way that you could recommend the product.Winch really not anywhere near your own standard of work. Nicely sorted Matt.
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻😘
Don't insult,Donkeys. He Haw.
Urcha..
quality without the price tag baby :-)
assembled by low education/gumption and low cost workers in what would be unbearable working conditions for any westerners .
The workers simply haven't got time put it right or get smaller bowl of rice porridge from not keeping up output numbers .
For under £300 they don't look too bad and unionmart hold spares .
Might get a new plastic housing from them if got time moan & email them pics .
Would prefer if they had a grub screw clamp in the drum over that eyelet .
Any of this cheap stuff bit of a gamble, hopefully that only issue and you get good few years use :-/ 2yr warranty good if unionmart not dodgy tossers .
Useful truck for little outlay, fair few hours in it but made good tube content :-)
Other than the backwards wiring it seems pretty decent for what I need. Cheers
I’ve put a rope back on with a cable tie once. Got to be seen to be believed but no mechanical strength is given by the bolt.
Yeh I had someone recommend doing that or just tape it on to get it going.
@@Urchfab all the winches on my tow trucks simply have a set screw in the drum. Like others have said its the wraps that take the load.