@@netWiz1 It would loosen the seals, so it wouldn't stick as much. It would eventually start leaking, but hey, it's coolant, it's supposed to leak anyway...
keep in mind you have to subtract the seconds of work, multiplied by the number of times you do that work from the hours of time avoiding to do that work.... you will still never make up the difference but it gives you the motivation to continue wasting time to not do that work.
"Normally, if given the choice between doing something and nothing, I’d choose to do nothing. But I will do something if it helps someone else do nothing. I’d work all night, if it meant nothing got done." - Ron Swanson
Just add a pneumatically actuated hammer to the cylinders. 5 taps per second, easily done with 10 0r 12 valves on one of these fluid logic systems that were popular in the 70's.
You know, a couple of garage door springs mounted vertically with cheap openers driving them would be WAY scarier. I'm not sure it would work any better, but I bet you would get real close to losing positive sphincter control every time it operated!
That almost worked great AvE., maybe a large coil spring attached to the outbound rod so it'll help retract it? BTW, many moons ago when I was a wee lad, working as shop labor at Beamsterboer Slag and Ballast in or around Hammond, Indiana, the mechanics one day were working on a large hydraulic cylinder removed from a large bulldozer. They were having trouble moving the movable part so decided to use compressed air to NUDGE it out bit by bit, but unfortunately they didn't provide any limiting device to the cylinder whilst doing so, and on the first shot of compressed air, the inner rod shot out of the outer cylinder like a cannon ball, which when skittering across the shop floor along with what seemed like gallons of hydraulic fluid : )
Can you maybe just take those apart and remove the wiper seal from the inside? Or change it out with a seal with less friction ? It might reduce some stickiness. Or add some KY.
Keep the wiper, debris will score your rod if left unchecked. I would tear it down and use an unloaded gland seal or "u-seal". The seal in there now has what they call an Energizer in the u-seal. Hercules sealing products sells to the public now and you can buy a one piece u-seal or rod seal that doesn't have that.
Great to see you back young man didn't know what happened to you I was getting a bit worried I was starting to get panic attacks lol keep up the good work mate you've told me so much over the years, your UA-cam mate Brad from Queensland Australia
DIY air over hydraulic: Oversize the airlines and run them to the ceiling and fill with hydraulic oil. That way the cylinders are always filled with oil. I bet you it’ll work.
There may also be assembly lube (grease) in the cylinders that is causing the sticktion at both extremes of travel. Disassemble them, clean with a non-chlor solvent, and reassemble with spray dry silicone as the lube.
Feeling like the guilty pleasure all the Manufucturing companies are taking watching you try fir us. Keep trying my good sir. We love what you do and admittance to fail fast and hard is just a splendid touch
I went down this road once .I used a rotary actuator from a butterfly valve to raise and lower a boom on a spray rig . Even with needle valves controlling the air flow on both sides of the actuator the speed control was temperamental . I always thought about using an air over oil system like how the old single post car hoists used to operate . /@DrewskisBrews idea of using the cooling system sounds like it would worth a try ,
Garage door springs and rubber end stops? Actually reminds me of something I did as a kid. Repurposed a button and solenoid for remote trunk opening into a Mustang II, BUT, also turned the springs up. ...every time I hit that button, I crouched down, to avoid the possible shower of broken glass. Never backed off the springs. Whoever got that car, must've got a fun surprise...
That takes me back to my Interrail days, nights in rattly trains all over Europe… and the doors between carriages were no longer manual, they were super modern pneumatic.. but leaky a.f. or even worse, needle valve at the outflow was blocked, so no luck pushing them either 😂
I always use linear actuators where hydraulic cylinders are recommended, pneumatic cylinders in place of linear actuators, hydraulic cylinders in place of electronic servos, electronic servos in place of gate valves (except in dams), ball valves in place of flow control valves ,
It needs to have high pressure on both sides and decrease pressure on one side to move. As an bonus you get better sound effects. On air pressure loss can have doors notmally open with spring valve
If you really want to make it complicated and fun, use a single cylinder attached to lines going through a few pulleys just like you would with curtains or drapes. My buddy did this for a set of sliding doors he wanted to open and close like they do on star trek, it worked surprisingly well though it did open and close a little hard sometimes.
I thought "Princess Auto" was AvE's comedic "remix" of some real business name. I found out it's a real business name of a Canadian "retail chain specializing in farm, industrial, garage, hydraulics and surplus items". :D
With servo's i use springs to move stuff the first and last parts. They start to push (build up tention in spring), and when they stop, the spring pushes softly to the end stop. If the servo needs to go to the end, it nevers makes it, and starts to fight. With springs the cilinder could move without tention, build up speed, remove drag, and start pushing... Try it maybe?
Some sort of over centering spring loaded linkages on the door end would probably help it close softer and be alot easier to set up to reliably seal the doors.
I was wondering if its possible to power some cylinders with a pressure washer. Ever tried that? then i thought if the water didnt work maybe a very lightweight oil could be ran through it. just an idea i had for a log turner on a sawmill.
Subscribed for the livestream of severed torso. Tried some low viscosity oil to remove a bit of striction from the seal pack? The adjustable flow control can still be a bit variable... Chinese pneumatic cylinders are alarmingly inexpensive. Mine haven't killed me yet.
Took a couple racing shocks. Took the valved pistons out and made some solid ones from aluminum and a couple O-rings. Welded in fittings on each end. Now I can set my race car at dynamic for testing and measuring. Look like normal race bilsteins with ball valves and an air hose fitting out the side lol.
...... what eclipse ? Your lights are on ... Your at home ... You got there ... You examined the work to be done ... ...... when is closing time ? ( no rush , no damage ..... perfect day )
back in 'dah dey (early 90s).... my buddy was one of the first guys running hydraulic cylinders with nitrogen on his old wagon. would pop right up off the ground with 3000psi. i built the cups to mount the cyls in the strut pockets. biggest problem he would have is blowing out the umbrella seals they would install to 'convert' them to air.
Curious if you were to do air over hydraulic with an accumulator of larger diameter increase the effective area moderating fluid flow rates. To make the flow more linear and perhaps faster since you would be displacing smaller volume of head space if the accumulator was nearly full
What happens if you use a mechanical stop to keep the cylinder from going to the max and min movement? Is it the seals bottoming out at the ends causing the stick? How does it react when stopped mid throw?
I had a dream that you explained why we use hydrostatic testing vs. Air/nitrogen for pressure vessels. I witnessed an explosion recently, and I’ve always been a pro-hydraulic fan. You could maybe touch on explosive hydro-forming spheres for fun, and why nobody dies. Signed by a 10 year almost welder for the mining industry, Johno
we have the same problem with using hydraulic cylinders to raise our od signs,,, instal a "t" on one of the ports on each cylinder and add some 3in1 oil once in awhile,,,,it reduces the sticktivity while adding sealamation
curious. I wonder what your take is on the, ubiquitous, CPSC's maybe soon to be, regulation, on the proposition that table saw manufacturers would be required to equip all their table saws with Aim, houdini magic, like blades, and the limitations on the private sale of these saws that predate this change? not sure if I'm for or agaist this one
Hydraulic does have its advantages as far as positioning goes. However, one can use pressure on both sides of the cylinder, as to dampen it. The cylinder still moves when a differential pressure is provided between the two sides. However, given the sticky nature of these two cylinders then one would need a fair bit of differential pressure to work with, and add on top some backing pressure for increasing stiffness, then it very quickly ends up being a scary amount of pressure. And as detailed before, air is a much better spring than oil. So it stores a lot more energy that is always eager to escape.
A small pump pushing some lightweight fluid instead of air would make the system that you already have set up operate very smoothly. An automotive power steering pump coupled to an air motor to keep the original plan of using air. Use a T fitting in the pressure line with a ball valve as your simple pressure relief system
Try running it off the coolant system. That could be entertaining
LOL was gonna suggest the same... You already have a low pressure hydraulic capable fluid at the machine!
How well is the coolant filtered? Any chance of frigging up the seals?
@@netWiz1 It would loosen the seals, so it wouldn't stick as much. It would eventually start leaking, but hey, it's coolant, it's supposed to leak anyway...
@@aerogfscooling and self lubricating in one 👏
Why would you say a hateful thing like that? Truly, man is wolf to man!
If you're not spending hours of time to avoid seconds of work, whats the point?
keep in mind you have to subtract the seconds of work, multiplied by the number of times you do that work from the hours of time avoiding to do that work.... you will still never make up the difference but it gives you the motivation to continue wasting time to not do that work.
😂😂😂
Words I can't help but live by. I didnt install smart switches in my house because I'm lazy. I did it because they're cool.
Amen brother haha
"Normally, if given the choice between doing something and nothing, I’d choose to do nothing. But I will do something if it helps someone else do nothing. I’d work all night, if it meant nothing got done." - Ron Swanson
Sometimes the brain says, "Why not?"
Then reality tells you why !
reality is overrated
Sometimes we just haven't to learn the hard way.
Reality is a virus, downing in excuses.
You don't have to make your own sci-fi sound effects anymore!
And that folks, is the finger trapper 3000!
Slower than opening the doors by hand maybe, but it does make Star Trek noises!
Open the pod bay doors Hal.
I'm sorry AvE, I'm afraid I can't chooch that.
I'm sorry, Dave. I'm afraid I can't do that.
I"m sorry dv... I can't do that!
I'm sorry Dave. I'm afraid I can't do that.
AVE comes back during the eclipse... It wasn't a bust after all
Oh... Creepy!
Some call him skull knight
Just gotta remove the doors and take your shower of slice n dice chips and coolant like a man lol
The shower and ships👍
Jeep style
Just add a pneumatically actuated hammer to the cylinders. 5 taps per second, easily done with 10 0r 12 valves on one of these fluid logic systems that were popular in the 70's.
Or an air chisel on a springamathing with the chisel electro-glued. Should chooch
"Welcome to the hooodrolic CNC channel"
I can relate. My X axis is half of an old automotive lift salvaged from a snowbank, and the rotary is surplus slewing gear for solar tracking...
Lmao... why did I just read that with an accent though!!😂
And here we go!
I read that in Lauris voice, all that was missing was crushing some stuff lol
Glad you are alive, I was thinking some corpo did you in like Boing done did John Barnett.
If you use shorter pneumatics you could use a lever type linkage for double the stroke, half the chooch.
A shower and a grower. Best of both worlds, louder and more dangerous!
"they didn't have anything long enough of the shelf" me too buddy, me too!
You gotta go a special website for the big girl stuff, I've found.
Star Trek was smarter, they just had 2 guys open and shut the automatic doors.
Don't forget your release clamps, I have to disassemble the whole hydraulic system to get the door open. 🤣
You know, a couple of garage door springs mounted vertically with cheap openers driving them would be WAY scarier. I'm not sure it would work any better, but I bet you would get real close to losing positive sphincter control every time it operated!
At this point, I'm giving up on air and oil... and using electric motors and belts. One of those kits for doors.
yeah, you could copy the electric sliding doors supermarkets use. i think air rams are the wrong way to go but w/e
You can used Try flow Teflon lubricant on those shaft! No more stickiness issues!
That almost worked great AvE., maybe a large coil spring attached to the outbound rod so it'll help retract it?
BTW, many moons ago when I was a wee lad, working as shop labor at Beamsterboer Slag and Ballast in or around Hammond, Indiana, the mechanics one day were working on a large hydraulic cylinder removed from a large bulldozer. They were having trouble moving the movable part so decided to use compressed air to NUDGE it out bit by bit, but unfortunately they didn't provide any limiting device to the cylinder whilst doing so, and on the first shot of compressed air, the inner rod shot out of the outer cylinder like a cannon ball, which when skittering across the shop floor along with what seemed like gallons of hydraulic fluid : )
You have some floor on your shavings.
Can you maybe just take those apart and remove the wiper seal from the inside? Or change it out with a seal with less friction ? It might reduce some stickiness. Or add some KY.
I was thinking maybe some oil myself. Pistons always go in and out easier if lubricated.
Keep the wiper, debris will score your rod if left unchecked. I would tear it down and use an unloaded gland seal or "u-seal". The seal in there now has what they call an Energizer in the u-seal. Hercules sealing products sells to the public now and you can buy a one piece u-seal or rod seal that doesn't have that.
Yes, KY is some slippery stuff, got me out of a situation a time or two.
I don't know I'm thinking ASTROGLIDE...
That rod lube comes in a variety of flavours now
Air springs spook me.
As they should.
Great to see you back young man didn't know what happened to you I was getting a bit worried I was starting to get panic attacks lol keep up the good work mate you've told me so much over the years, your UA-cam mate Brad from Queensland Australia
You’re alive!!!!! Nice seeing ya again. missed you and your content!
I’ve got a brilliant idea, use the upper appendages and the flexible five digit implements that are inherent to the mark 1 biomass.
Nice , now you can hear when someone try to steal a bag of Chips from there.
A wise man once told me. Sometimes the ethical question of whether should you just because you can?
Looks like two more reasons to wake up one day and say ahhh fuck. KISS has left the building 🎉😂
DIY air over hydraulic: Oversize the airlines and run them to the ceiling and fill with hydraulic oil. That way the cylinders are always filled with oil. I bet you it’ll work.
0:07 lordy, it's a two fer this week 😅😂
Glad to had yea back my bouy
2:28 deer say, woodnt a lob of lube do the tricket?
BUDDY!! You're back!!! Excellent
There may also be assembly lube (grease) in the cylinders that is causing the sticktion at both extremes of travel. Disassemble them, clean with a non-chlor solvent, and reassemble with spray dry silicone as the lube.
It's not just high sticktivity. It's also low pressure compared to the hydraulic system they were designed for.
Do not let Dewclaw run the switch if your head is in the door path...
Your content is the RedGreen show for the 21st century! Love it!
What a cool curious set up. I hope it turns out good! I hope you post some continuation to this project :)
My first thought was electric gate actuator. That'd have the range of motion, right?
Surprised you didn’t buy two screw drive garage door opener’s. You could have a remote button for each door.
Feeling like the guilty pleasure all the Manufucturing companies are taking watching you try fir us.
Keep trying my good sir.
We love what you do and admittance to fail fast and hard is just a splendid touch
Best part of my day looking at a new video thank you sir
Man glitter....ha ha ha
I've seen similar devices used in other..."settings"......they go in and out pretty quick. The stroke is .....
Never mind.
Wondered if you would gives us video on the Baltimore bridge collision?
If this was a fail hard you would have destroyed the doors and hinges ending in maniacal laughter and tears.
slowly turning your cnc into a musical instrument I see
I went down this road once .I used a rotary actuator from a butterfly valve to raise and lower a boom on a spray rig . Even with needle valves controlling the air flow on both sides of the actuator the speed control was temperamental .
I always thought about using an air over oil system like how the old single post car hoists used to operate .
/@DrewskisBrews idea of using the cooling system sounds like it would worth a try ,
Garage door springs and rubber end stops?
Actually reminds me of something I did as a kid. Repurposed a button and solenoid for remote trunk opening into a Mustang II, BUT, also turned the springs up. ...every time I hit that button, I crouched down, to avoid the possible shower of broken glass.
Never backed off the springs. Whoever got that car, must've got a fun surprise...
It's a terrible day when your cylinder is too sticky... Or maybe it's a great day.
I guess it all depends on how much time and money you have.
That takes me back to my Interrail days, nights in rattly trains all over Europe… and the doors between carriages were no longer manual, they were super modern pneumatic.. but leaky a.f. or even worse, needle valve at the outflow was blocked, so no luck pushing them either 😂
I always use linear actuators where hydraulic cylinders are recommended, pneumatic cylinders in place of linear actuators, hydraulic cylinders in place of electronic servos, electronic servos in place of gate valves (except in dams), ball valves in place of flow control valves ,
You can compress a gas but not a liquid. Hence…
You can compress solids and liquids but gases are far more compressible
It needs to have high pressure on both sides and decrease pressure on one side to move. As an bonus you get better sound effects. On air pressure loss can have doors notmally open with spring valve
Cool tool review!
Love it when I realize I’ve been “mysteriously” unsubscribed to my favorite channels
I heard a former Haas employee Guenther is looking for work. Maybe he could help you with this project?
😅
@@jfv65 I’m glad somebody got it lol
@@jfv65He better not foksmash any doors 😂
"We have Titans of CNC at home!"
If you really want to make it complicated and fun, use a single cylinder attached to lines going through a few pulleys just like you would with curtains or drapes.
My buddy did this for a set of sliding doors he wanted to open and close like they do on star trek, it worked surprisingly well though it did open and close a little hard sometimes.
so in other words - pneumatics lol
Or any hyrdraulic piston haha
I thought "Princess Auto" was AvE's comedic "remix" of some real business name. I found out it's a real business name of a Canadian "retail chain specializing in farm, industrial, garage, hydraulics and surplus items". :D
canukistan harbor freight equivalent
Pneumatic quick exhaust will help with the speed control / muffles too
Godamn that compressible air!
Obviously, the only way to go is with super-critical CO2.
With servo's i use springs to move stuff the first and last parts. They start to push (build up tention in spring), and when they stop, the spring pushes softly to the end stop. If the servo needs to go to the end, it nevers makes it, and starts to fight.
With springs the cilinder could move without tention, build up speed, remove drag, and start pushing... Try it maybe?
Some sort of over centering spring loaded linkages on the door end would probably help it close softer and be alot easier to set up to reliably seal the doors.
This calls for an air over oil circuit with flow check valves.
so hydropneumatic
You are a hoot!!! I am crying
I was wondering if its possible to power some cylinders with a pressure washer. Ever tried that? then i thought if the water didnt work maybe a very lightweight oil could be ran through it. just an idea i had for a log turner on a sawmill.
How long ya need? Got multiple lengths. Also have Flo control valves.
Royal purple makes a quite good spray oil. I would apply inside only. But also canaderp may not allow import.
I would probably start of with trying to lubricate the cylinders. Some PTFE oil or moly grease should probably reduce stiction a bit?
FLUID IS FLUID.
Reminds me of the feed leg on a jackleg drill, but somehow even sketchier.
Subscribed for the livestream of severed torso.
Tried some low viscosity oil to remove a bit of striction from the seal pack? The adjustable flow control can still be a bit variable... Chinese pneumatic cylinders are alarmingly inexpensive. Mine haven't killed me yet.
Holio fuck you're alive! I knew you'd return. Welcome back. I was just thinkin' about you yesterday!
Took a couple racing shocks. Took the valved pistons out and made some solid ones from aluminum and a couple O-rings. Welded in fittings on each end. Now I can set my race car at dynamic for testing and measuring. Look like normal race bilsteins with ball valves and an air hose fitting out the side lol.
...... what eclipse ?
Your lights are on ...
Your at home ...
You got there ...
You examined the work to be done ...
...... when is closing time ?
( no rush , no damage ..... perfect day )
back in 'dah dey (early 90s).... my buddy was one of the first guys running hydraulic cylinders with nitrogen on his old wagon. would pop right up off the ground with 3000psi. i built the cups to mount the cyls in the strut pockets. biggest problem he would have is blowing out the umbrella seals they would install to 'convert' them to air.
Curious if you were to do air over hydraulic with an accumulator of larger diameter increase the effective area moderating fluid flow rates. To make the flow more linear and perhaps faster since you would be displacing smaller volume of head space if the accumulator was nearly full
😂 you’re awesome!!!
What happens if you use a mechanical stop to keep the cylinder from going to the max and min movement? Is it the seals bottoming out at the ends causing the stick? How does it react when stopped mid throw?
Have you considered putting springs on the extended shafts to keep them closed and on using the air to open them?
Just a thought...
Can't wait to see you discuss the FLA luffer climbing situation.
Sounds slick as a strar trek enterprise door shooshin open n closed, maybe shoulda sprung for a small electric over hydra lick pumper yoonit.
I had a dream that you explained why we use hydrostatic testing vs. Air/nitrogen for pressure vessels. I witnessed an explosion recently, and I’ve always been a pro-hydraulic fan. You could maybe touch on explosive hydro-forming spheres for fun, and why nobody dies.
Signed by a 10 year almost welder for the mining industry,
Johno
we have the same problem with using hydraulic cylinders to raise our od signs,,, instal a "t" on one of the ports on each cylinder and add some 3in1 oil once in awhile,,,,it reduces the sticktivity while adding sealamation
nailed it.
Car window motor works pretty good that's what I used on my sliding back door
Haas makes an auto door kit for those machines I do believe, im just not sure if it is field installable or not
Looks like the Town Pump CNC has a chance to become the Town Guillotine.
When in doubt, increase the PSI.
Will this be on the mid-term?
Love the vidjeos, why no rumble??
Are you planning on selling the brass hammers? I’d love to get my hands on one.
Buying those merch t-shirts wasn’t in vain. Thanks you’ve come back, my wife said you’d left, never to return, just like she will one day 😂
I've wondered if one could make a useful alpha stirling heat pump from shock absorbers, or posibly repurposed hydrolic cylinders like these.
curious. I wonder what your take is on the, ubiquitous, CPSC's maybe soon to be, regulation, on the proposition that table saw manufacturers would be required to equip all their table saws with Aim, houdini magic, like blades, and the limitations on the private sale of these saws that predate this change? not sure if I'm for or agaist this one
I see no issues. Proceed!
I need that "I'm going riding" sign!!
Question O the day , would it be practical to run the dumped air from any pneumatic system back to the compressor inlet to recycle used dry air . ???
Hydraulic does have its advantages as far as positioning goes.
However, one can use pressure on both sides of the cylinder, as to dampen it. The cylinder still moves when a differential pressure is provided between the two sides. However, given the sticky nature of these two cylinders then one would need a fair bit of differential pressure to work with, and add on top some backing pressure for increasing stiffness, then it very quickly ends up being a scary amount of pressure.
And as detailed before, air is a much better spring than oil. So it stores a lot more energy that is always eager to escape.
A small pump pushing some lightweight fluid instead of air would make the system that you already have set up operate very smoothly. An automotive power steering pump coupled to an air motor to keep the original plan of using air. Use a T fitting in the pressure line with a ball valve as your simple pressure relief system