Hi Lyndon, Quick useless question : where did you get you canned shaped glasses (and are they actually in plastic or glass) ? And more useful question : when you carb you beer in the F80 with the carbonation stone, how do you proceed ? Say if you are starting from a pressured unitank at a classic 12 PSI fermenting pressure. Set the barbonation stone to 15 and let it sit for a while ? Thanks for all your great vids, they are extremely inspiring !
The large ones i use are PET and the small one is glass. I purchased both from a vendor on aliExpress. Here are the links i used. PET Cans a.aliexpress.com/_m0wDo5G Glass Can a.aliexpress.com/_mrOZZK6
I would set it at 20psi for 24 hours depending on the carb level you start with. I dont often use the carb stone but i like to use head pressure instead during crashing / conditioning time before packaging.
@@MasteringHomebrew Thank you for the answer. I was wondering about that and I find it hard to evaluate the duration at which I should leave the pressure at my desired carb level (say 14 PSI for example). In my keg, I force carb for 24h at 50PSI and then droop to 12 / 14 to serve. If I ferment without pressure, I'm a bit lost on how to achieve my carbonating level (14PSI during cold crash seems a bit short to reach the level before kegging / canning).... I imagine that with a pressure ferment, the time would be longer and a carb level would be reached faster...
I noticed the tank is sweating from the cold crash. Is that typical? Do you notice any issues from the condensation? Thanks for your videos! It's convincing me my next purchase is one of these fermenters.
Yea its typical when not using the neoprene jacket. This was the first time i didnt use it. The neoprene reallllly helps cut it down. I didnt have any issues with it though. It didnt really drip down unless you touched it. Thanks for watching!
Hey, Rotarex offers a commercial solution, the bubble box, that uses this principle to carbonate water without any tank. But I am wondering how much bubbles would stay in the water during this quick carbonation process. Did you ever try something similar?
Well their website says low-medium carbonation so unless you are drinking it immediately its a no go for re-packaging. Its kinda like one of those refrigerators that has sparkling water using soda stream co2 tanks. I think if you wanted to use a similar, simple solution thats still efficient i would go for a blichmann quick carb or similar if you are using kegs. The bubble box looks cool for home sink use but i dont see it working well for hard seltzer the same way a carb stone and a tank under pressure do. I over carbonate everything since it goes into cans and requires 1.4vol of co2. The bubble box likely cant get anywhere near that.
@@MasteringHomebrew Yes, the idea would be to drink the water immediately. I guess that I have to try and check whether my tab water at it's temperature allows the level of carbonation I like. The blichmann quick carb looks great. I just don't need the pump as the pressure from the tab should be sufficient. Thanks for the feedback, I will keep you posted about my findings... =)
@@dominikeggert2585 oh, I see. If your intention is to use it with normal water, then I’m sure it will work perfectly fine. This video is geared more towards the seltzers that have been fermented first then need to be a bit more carbed before packaging.
Very nice video as always. Just a quick question how you set the pressure, I mean if you want 2.2vol co² how many pressure puts at 5°? And my second question. If the blowoff it's settled at 1 bar and your pressure it's higher in a hoppy beer you are losing aroma, isn't?
Yes. Scrubbing can be very detrimental to hop aromas at these smaller volumes. I usually only do it with pilsners and now seltzers. You have to use your best judgement. I would use a carbonation chart + wetting pressure + pressure added from your total volume to find the correct setting to achieve 2.2vol.
Its a couple different pieces. www.brewtools.com/fittings/7712954/tc34mm-pull-type-prv-7mm-barb-manual-prv-with-hose-barb And www.brewtools.com/tc-piping/7712792/tc-2-x-tc34mm-tee-perfect-for-venting-purging They have different sizes according to your needs for the Tee.
I think im going to continue this method although i wont spund it with hoppy beers and use the 24hr carb stone method instead. Im not really a big fan of keeping the stone in the tank. Adding the stone this way keeps it versatile and less places for an infection to potentially fester.
@@MasteringHomebrew thanks for the info really appreciate your time Yes there shld be away to put the carb stone in when needed instead of leaving in long periods I agree So you think with hoppy beers would be the best way over a 24hr period iam fermenting an ipa atm
Scrubbing is running CO2 through the solution to expel any unwanted compounds still left in the solution. Doing this under pressure helps it retain some of the CO2 being pushed through.
@@KristianKlaveness it will work but will diminish hop aroma if used with hoppy beers. I use a force carbonation chart. easy to find with a google search
@@trevorthomas678 im normally spunding from 55% attenuation then ill add the co2 tank to the unitank and “top it off” at 1BAR normally while it conditions in the tank. I almost never use the carb stone.
It’s not for making the seltzer clearer though (although it does help a little bit). It was already clear from cold crashing. It’s for scrubbing any oxygen / any other flavor altering compounds out by running the co2 through at a high rate while also carbing 80 liters very quickly. It was crashed again before canning so whatever was kicked up during this process was able to settle again.
Hi Lyndon,
Quick useless question : where did you get you canned shaped glasses (and are they actually in plastic or glass) ?
And more useful question : when you carb you beer in the F80 with the carbonation stone, how do you proceed ? Say if you are starting from a pressured unitank at a classic 12 PSI fermenting pressure. Set the barbonation stone to 15 and let it sit for a while ?
Thanks for all your great vids, they are extremely inspiring !
The large ones i use are PET and the small one is glass. I purchased both from a vendor on aliExpress. Here are the links i used.
PET Cans
a.aliexpress.com/_m0wDo5G
Glass Can
a.aliexpress.com/_mrOZZK6
I would set it at 20psi for 24 hours depending on the carb level you start with. I dont often use the carb stone but i like to use head pressure instead during crashing / conditioning time before packaging.
@@MasteringHomebrew Thank you for the answer. I was wondering about that and I find it hard to evaluate the duration at which I should leave the pressure at my desired carb level (say 14 PSI for example). In my keg, I force carb for 24h at 50PSI and then droop to 12 / 14 to serve. If I ferment without pressure, I'm a bit lost on how to achieve my carbonating level (14PSI during cold crash seems a bit short to reach the level before kegging / canning).... I imagine that with a pressure ferment, the time would be longer and a carb level would be reached faster...
@@MasteringHomebrew Thanks :-)
I noticed the tank is sweating from the cold crash. Is that typical? Do you notice any issues from the condensation?
Thanks for your videos! It's convincing me my next purchase is one of these fermenters.
Yea its typical when not using the neoprene jacket. This was the first time i didnt use it. The neoprene reallllly helps cut it down. I didnt have any issues with it though. It didnt really drip down unless you touched it. Thanks for watching!
Awesome
Hey, Rotarex offers a commercial solution, the bubble box, that uses this principle to carbonate water without any tank. But I am wondering how much bubbles would stay in the water during this quick carbonation process. Did you ever try something similar?
Well their website says low-medium carbonation so unless you are drinking it immediately its a no go for re-packaging. Its kinda like one of those refrigerators that has sparkling water using soda stream co2 tanks. I think if you wanted to use a similar, simple solution thats still efficient i would go for a blichmann quick carb or similar if you are using kegs. The bubble box looks cool for home sink use but i dont see it working well for hard seltzer the same way a carb stone and a tank under pressure do. I over carbonate everything since it goes into cans and requires 1.4vol of co2. The bubble box likely cant get anywhere near that.
@@MasteringHomebrew Yes, the idea would be to drink the water immediately. I guess that I have to try and check whether my tab water at it's temperature allows the level of carbonation I like. The blichmann quick carb looks great. I just don't need the pump as the pressure from the tab should be sufficient. Thanks for the feedback, I will keep you posted about my findings... =)
@@dominikeggert2585 oh, I see. If your intention is to use it with normal water, then I’m sure it will work perfectly fine. This video is geared more towards the seltzers that have been fermented first then need to be a bit more carbed before packaging.
Very nice video as always.
Just a quick question how you set the pressure, I mean if you want 2.2vol co² how many pressure puts at 5°?
And my second question. If the blowoff it's settled at 1 bar and your pressure it's higher in a hoppy beer you are losing aroma, isn't?
Yes. Scrubbing can be very detrimental to hop aromas at these smaller volumes. I usually only do it with pilsners and now seltzers. You have to use your best judgement. I would use a carbonation chart + wetting pressure + pressure added from your total volume to find the correct setting to achieve 2.2vol.
@@MasteringHomebrew tusen takk partner
I see you also use a heating element, do you use two thermowells?(the second for the glycol)
Precisely.
You two are nuts. What a setup.
Is it the same setting for all sizes of unitank?
I would use the same on my smaller tanks. Just less time.
Where can I find that T with the pressure release??
Its a couple different pieces.
www.brewtools.com/fittings/7712954/tc34mm-pull-type-prv-7mm-barb-manual-prv-with-hose-barb
And
www.brewtools.com/tc-piping/7712792/tc-2-x-tc34mm-tee-perfect-for-venting-purging
They have different sizes according to your needs for the Tee.
@@MasteringHomebrew Very helpful - thank you!
What's your recommendation on carbonation bia Stone in tank or this way?
I think im going to continue this method although i wont spund it with hoppy beers and use the 24hr carb stone method instead. Im not really a big fan of keeping the stone in the tank. Adding the stone this way keeps it versatile and less places for an infection to potentially fester.
@@MasteringHomebrew thanks for the info really appreciate your time
Yes there shld be away to put the carb stone in when needed instead of leaving in long periods I agree
So you think with hoppy beers would be the best way over a 24hr period iam fermenting an ipa atm
What is "scrubbing"? Is this used for beer making as well?
Scrubbing is running CO2 through the solution to expel any unwanted compounds still left in the solution. Doing this under pressure helps it retain some of the CO2 being pushed through.
@@MasteringHomebrew Would it work to carbonate beer with this clear PET tube? Do you use any table to find the right pressure, time, and temperature?
@@KristianKlaveness it will work but will diminish hop aroma if used with hoppy beers. I use a force carbonation chart. easy to find with a google search
@@MasteringHomebrew so you don't even use a carb stone with hoppy beers, just force carb them in the fermenter or in the keg?
@@trevorthomas678 im normally spunding from 55% attenuation then ill add the co2 tank to the unitank and “top it off” at 1BAR normally while it conditions in the tank. I almost never use the carb stone.
Well tbh i get it clearer via just sedimentation after cold crash
It’s not for making the seltzer clearer though (although it does help a little bit). It was already clear from cold crashing. It’s for scrubbing any oxygen / any other flavor altering compounds out by running the co2 through at a high rate while also carbing 80 liters very quickly. It was crashed again before canning so whatever was kicked up during this process was able to settle again.
@@MasteringHomebrew oooooh okay that makes sense, in germany we call it a co2 wash. Makes sense with the carbonation stone too