I love brewtools gear which is what helped me find your feed. The journey you have started is great and I'm looking forward to following it. I think with your video style and open approach your channel is going to be very successful. I hope you manage to post frequently just to show your intended direction, the changes you make along the way and how it turns out.
Thanks Danny! Trying to post as often as I can and there should be a new video within the next week or so :) Thanks for following along and let me know if you ever have questions or comments.
My B150 will soon be joined by the F150. Turning 40 it is part of my mid-life crisis stage 1. cant wait to get rid of the troublesome Fermzilla all rounder 60l's I have used so far. I must say i like your set up. My wife lets me keep it in the main hall. I use a triple pulley system I got at Jula for the grain, and swing it over to a 90l masons bucket (again Jula) after sparging. A sack trolley (Jula)gets that out to the compost heap. Im glad my wife works at Jula so that i can get auxiliary equipment with her discount. Now im looking at some of their water pumps to get one with around 80 liters/min throughput to get some more pressure for CIP. Good luck with your brewing and I will keep an eye on your channel.
You should hook up your chained together kegs to the blowoff cane of the F150 - free co2 that way. Just put something on the end to prevent oxygen coming back in once all the Starsan comes through. A spunding valve would do the trick.
First time watching Ur videos found it very interesting as I am very new to Brewing I am watching a lot of videos and a lot of different people I currently have the brewtools B40pro and a WW brew keg25. The one thing I would like to see in these videos especially for beginners is a short time on the final product what the beer looks like what the carb like etc as I know all beer are not going to look taste the same but be nice to see what the results was so we can sort of compare as that the one thing I do struggle with when I buy a kit does it look like the same as it was intended
Thanks for the feedback! We typically don't show the final product so much because it is a bit of a grey area in Norwegian law of "advertising" the beer. Therefore we tend to more focus on the process and not the product to avoid being seen as not complying with strict Norwegian alcohol laws.
I love the chaos and the uncertainty and the humor! I wish you luck in your business, and I'll keep watching from Chicago. I'm a B80 owner and still figuring this out too. I had one moment in your video where you said "I won't pump out any more trub once it's a bit runny, so I don't waste beer" and I thought "well that's going to jam the racking port" and had a laugh later. I am also very stingy on wasting beer and brewhouse losses, but I've learned to purge a bit more trub for clearer beer and better taste. Let me know if I''m being too foolish, and I love the style and the "full disclosure" direction you've taken. :)
Hahaha I am still carrying my old small system habits of not wanting to waste a drop 😂 I am also learning what you've observed and purging more tends to be better. It ends up accumulating anyways and you just need to do it the next day. Thanks and glad you enjoy!
Thanks for the great video, would love it if you make it again, in some time, to see what you have learned-would do differently. I am also setting up a micro-brewery, with Brewtools stuff, so would love to keep in touch!
Most definitely! Once I get some more experience and optimize the brewing setup, I certainly plan to share what I have learned. Nice on your brewery! Where are you planning on starting it?
hallo ! Good and informativ Video! THX 4 it! 👍 a little info - I have the F150 ; and I fill the wort not from the top in the fermenter; because oft the oxydation. I do it from the bottom . but it is only an idea, I dont know if it´s wright. THX for the Video! stek
I am not worried about oxidation when putting the beer into the fermenter. In fact, we literally oxygenate the beer of that the yeast propagation is healthy :) Typically you want 6-10 ppm in your wort for a healthy fermentation. Our only concerns of oxidation are after the initial stage of fermentation.
Thanks for the video. I am thinking to drill the holes and make them wider on the sparg manifold which is used for mashing 😀. I think the sugar build up and clogged the holes- on my B40. Good luck with your business
Yes, I think it works great! It's probably not as fast to cool as a plate chiller, but it's much easier to maintain and still chills very fast if you have cold cooling water.
Alright bro I made it through all your vids.. Good stuff. Now I know why your "Norwegian accent" isn't so Norwegian lol. Where in the states are you from? I'm in northern lower Michigan. Looks like you need to invest in a electric hoist. Also I figured you were a lonely bachelor like me but after seeing the purple pig tail girl I'm guessing not lol. Look forward to the next ones. I drank a beer for each video
You would be surprised how many Norwegians also speak near-perfect English with barely any accent! It's impressive. I am from Colorado! I looked into an electric hoist but the problem is that my roof is so low that I didn't have clearance. So instead I have a 4:1 pully with a sliding rail. It'll be on an upcoming video for sure! Cheers mate!
@@BentGateBrewing Great videos, thanks for sharing! As a homebrewer who's also into sailing, I might have a tip for your pulley procedure: instead of pulling with your hands directly, simply step on the line and use your body weight. BTW: Are you happy with the steam condenser? I am thinking of getting one in advance for my to-come-next-week B80. I noticed that there was quite some steam coming out of your bucket. Nothing to worry about, but without a dedicated and water-proof environment this could become a problem in my kitchen. Or is that due to a too small/fine water nozzle? Cheers from Germany! 🍻
@@W00PIE Yeah I'm very happy with the steam condenser. I don't have a hood so if I didn't use it then I would make my whole house into a drippy sauna 🤣 The steam is because I had the boil going a bit too hard and, yes, this can also be fixed by having a bigger water nozzle on the condenser. It's something I might look into soon but on my last brew I did the power at 70% and didn't have steam leaking out but still had a good boil.
You made American, home brew style, West Coast Pale moonshiners beer. The single temperature infusion method and modern, high modified, malt are used in grain distillation. Only one step and one temperature are needed for Alpha to release simple sugar, glucose that is responsible for ABV and that is all that a moonshiner is concerned with. Strike and target temperature are useless for producing ale due to the way enzymes work and chemical precipitation. To produce pseudo, ale the step mash method is used. To make authentic, ale the decoction method is used. High quality, under modified, low protein, malt is used with the brewing methods. A malt spec sheet comes with every bag of malt, they are online, and used for determining the quality of malt before malt is purchased. Modification and protein content are important numbers listed on a malt spec sheet. The higher the modification and protein content the less suitable the malt is for producing ale and lager. Without a malt spec sheet a brewer has no idea if the malt in a bag is high modified or under modified because both types of malt are in bags stamped Brewers Malt, Ale, Lager, Munich, whatever. A recipe that doesn't list the malthouse that produced the base malt is worthless because a malt spec sheet cannot be obtained. Besides, recipes and brewing instructions aren't needed by ale and lager brewers, they are a given. The high temperatures used in home brewing denatures the low temperature activated enzymes that produce ale, Beta in particular. Beta is responsible for conversion which occurs at 60 to 63. During conversion Beta converts glucose into maltose and maltotriose, the sugars that produce ale, glucose only makes alcohol. Secondary fermentation takes place when conversion occurs. Moonshiners soak malt at 65, 66, because at the temperatures Alpha releases the highest volume of glucose from starch within one hour. The high temperatures rapidly denature Beta. Moonshiners purposely denature Beta because they don't need to waste time on a step that converts simple sugar, glucose that is already in the extract, into fermentable, complex types of sugar, purchase a secondary fermenter and wait for secondary fermentation to occur when an enzyme in yeast converts complex sugar back into the glucose that was already present in the extract. When conversion is skipped the beer is moonshiners beer regardless of the title on a recipe. In the infusion method mash out is unnecessary. There is no reason to raise mash temperature to mash out temperature because the one hour rest denatured enzymes. The higher the rest temperature is above 65, 66, the quicker Alpha denatures. The step is sometimes used in the decoction method where low temperatures are used to preserve enzymes and where starch carry over is less of a concern. At 76, heat resistant, complex starch, amylopectin begins to rupture and enters into the extract when Alpha denatured causing starch carry over. In the decoction method mash is boiled which rapidly bursts amylopectin. During dextrinization and gelatinization Alpha liquefies amylopectin and releases tasteless, nonfermenting types of sugar, called limit dextrin, and pectin which forms body and mouthfeel. In the infusion method the rich, starch is thrown out with the spent mash and ingredients that loads extract with Beta Glucan and protein sludge are purchased to replace the already paid for starch. A brewing system that recirculates hot extract through a grain bed for long periods of time causes over sparge which extracts tannin. Tannin extraction is based on time, temperature and pH and that is why vorlauf is limited to 10 minutes using a small volume of extract. If the commercial brewing system that you are purchasing is designed to work with single temperature infusion the brewing system will produce moonshiners beer. It will need to come with a magic wand in order to produce ale and lager or malt will need to contain magical properties that would allow the various enzymes in starch that work at various temperatures to work at a single, high, temperature within an hour without denaturing. Purchase a system capable of step mashing, at least pseudo, ale can be produced and you will be honest when you tell someone they are drinking ale. The brewing system will need to be capable of reaching each temperature step within 10 minutes and maintain the temperatures without using recirculated hot extract. Boiling water infusions can be used for rapidly raising mash temperature but the mash tun will have to be large enough to hold the extra water.
The brewtools B150 is capable of step mashing but with todays highly modified malts it's not at all a necessary step. I'd be surprised if many modern craft breweries step mash unless they have particular requirements or are making traditional styles with decoction mashing.
I love brewtools gear which is what helped me find your feed. The journey you have started is great and I'm looking forward to following it. I think with your video style and open approach your channel is going to be very successful. I hope you manage to post frequently just to show your intended direction, the changes you make along the way and how it turns out.
Thanks Danny! Trying to post as often as I can and there should be a new video within the next week or so :) Thanks for following along and let me know if you ever have questions or comments.
My B150 will soon be joined by the F150. Turning 40 it is part of my mid-life crisis stage 1. cant wait to get rid of the troublesome Fermzilla all rounder 60l's I have used so far. I must say i like your set up. My wife lets me keep it in the main hall. I use a triple pulley system I got at Jula for the grain, and swing it over to a 90l masons bucket (again Jula) after sparging. A sack trolley (Jula)gets that out to the compost heap. Im glad my wife works at Jula so that i can get auxiliary equipment with her discount. Now im looking at some of their water pumps to get one with around 80 liters/min throughput to get some more pressure for CIP. Good luck with your brewing and I will keep an eye on your channel.
Sounds like you have a sweet setup! Thanks for watching :)
You should hook up your chained together kegs to the blowoff cane of the F150 - free co2 that way. Just put something on the end to prevent oxygen coming back in once all the Starsan comes through. A spunding valve would do the trick.
Really great idea! I will have to try that!
Loved your video and some great tips I will watch for more from Perth Western Australia cheers from Bill
Awesome, glad you enjoyed Bill! If you ever have any tips feel free to send them my way as well :)
First time watching Ur videos found it very interesting as I am very new to Brewing I am watching a lot of videos and a lot of different people I currently have the brewtools B40pro and a WW brew keg25.
The one thing I would like to see in these videos especially for beginners is a short time on the final product what the beer looks like what the carb like etc as I know all beer are not going to look taste the same but be nice to see what the results was so we can sort of compare as that the one thing I do struggle with when I buy a kit does it look like the same as it was intended
Thanks for the feedback! We typically don't show the final product so much because it is a bit of a grey area in Norwegian law of "advertising" the beer. Therefore we tend to more focus on the process and not the product to avoid being seen as not complying with strict Norwegian alcohol laws.
Great video thank you :)
Glad you liked it! Thanks!
Nice your in my Homeland LoL
Awesome!!!
I love the chaos and the uncertainty and the humor! I wish you luck in your business, and I'll keep watching from Chicago. I'm a B80 owner and still figuring this out too. I had one moment in your video where you said "I won't pump out any more trub once it's a bit runny, so I don't waste beer" and I thought "well that's going to jam the racking port" and had a laugh later. I am also very stingy on wasting beer and brewhouse losses, but I've learned to purge a bit more trub for clearer beer and better taste. Let me know if I''m being too foolish, and I love the style and the "full disclosure" direction you've taken. :)
Hahaha I am still carrying my old small system habits of not wanting to waste a drop 😂 I am also learning what you've observed and purging more tends to be better. It ends up accumulating anyways and you just need to do it the next day. Thanks and glad you enjoy!
Thanks for the great video, would love it if you make it again, in some time, to see what you have learned-would do differently. I am also setting up a micro-brewery, with Brewtools stuff, so would love to keep in touch!
Most definitely! Once I get some more experience and optimize the brewing setup, I certainly plan to share what I have learned. Nice on your brewery! Where are you planning on starting it?
@@BentGateBrewing In Samos, Greece! Keep up the videos, and keep up with the good humor! :D
hallo !
Good and informativ Video! THX 4 it! 👍 a little info - I have the F150 ; and I fill the wort not from the top in the fermenter; because oft the oxydation. I do it from the bottom . but it is only an idea, I dont know if it´s wright.
THX for the Video!
stek
I am not worried about oxidation when putting the beer into the fermenter. In fact, we literally oxygenate the beer of that the yeast propagation is healthy :) Typically you want 6-10 ppm in your wort for a healthy fermentation. Our only concerns of oxidation are after the initial stage of fermentation.
Thanks for the video. I am thinking to drill the holes and make them wider on the sparg manifold which is used for mashing 😀. I think the sugar build up and clogged the holes- on my B40.
Good luck with your business
Which spare manifold do you have? The stock plate one or the arm spraying manifold?
@@BentGateBrewing the Brewtools sparge manifold. when I used it during mashing. the small holes get clogged. So I am thinking of making them bigger
@@altaibskt1 Interesting and good to know... I'll have an eye on that when starting with my B80 next week.
Hello! Thks for your nice videos. Can you tell me please if the brewtools chiller works well on that B150?
Yes, I think it works great! It's probably not as fast to cool as a plate chiller, but it's much easier to maintain and still chills very fast if you have cold cooling water.
@@BentGateBrewing Thks and continue with your excellent work!
@@RicardoGouveiaFlup Thanks!
Alright bro I made it through all your vids.. Good stuff. Now I know why your "Norwegian accent" isn't so Norwegian lol. Where in the states are you from? I'm in northern lower Michigan. Looks like you need to invest in a electric hoist. Also I figured you were a lonely bachelor like me but after seeing the purple pig tail girl I'm guessing not lol. Look forward to the next ones. I drank a beer for each video
You would be surprised how many Norwegians also speak near-perfect English with barely any accent! It's impressive. I am from Colorado! I looked into an electric hoist but the problem is that my roof is so low that I didn't have clearance. So instead I have a 4:1 pully with a sliding rail. It'll be on an upcoming video for sure! Cheers mate!
@@BentGateBrewing Great videos, thanks for sharing! As a homebrewer who's also into sailing, I might have a tip for your pulley procedure: instead of pulling with your hands directly, simply step on the line and use your body weight. BTW: Are you happy with the steam condenser? I am thinking of getting one in advance for my to-come-next-week B80. I noticed that there was quite some steam coming out of your bucket. Nothing to worry about, but without a dedicated and water-proof environment this could become a problem in my kitchen. Or is that due to a too small/fine water nozzle? Cheers from Germany! 🍻
@@W00PIE Yeah I'm very happy with the steam condenser. I don't have a hood so if I didn't use it then I would make my whole house into a drippy sauna 🤣 The steam is because I had the boil going a bit too hard and, yes, this can also be fixed by having a bigger water nozzle on the condenser. It's something I might look into soon but on my last brew I did the power at 70% and didn't have steam leaking out but still had a good boil.
You made American, home brew style, West Coast Pale moonshiners beer. The single temperature infusion method and modern, high modified, malt are used in grain distillation. Only one step and one temperature are needed for Alpha to release simple sugar, glucose that is responsible for ABV and that is all that a moonshiner is concerned with. Strike and target temperature are useless for producing ale due to the way enzymes work and chemical precipitation.
To produce pseudo, ale the step mash method is used. To make authentic, ale the decoction method is used. High quality, under modified, low protein, malt is used with the brewing methods. A malt spec sheet comes with every bag of malt, they are online, and used for determining the quality of malt before malt is purchased. Modification and protein content are important numbers listed on a malt spec sheet. The higher the modification and protein content the less suitable the malt is for producing ale and lager. Without a malt spec sheet a brewer has no idea if the malt in a bag is high modified or under modified because both types of malt are in bags stamped Brewers Malt, Ale, Lager, Munich, whatever. A recipe that doesn't list the malthouse that produced the base malt is worthless because a malt spec sheet cannot be obtained. Besides, recipes and brewing instructions aren't needed by ale and lager brewers, they are a given.
The high temperatures used in home brewing denatures the low temperature activated enzymes that produce ale, Beta in particular. Beta is responsible for conversion which occurs at 60 to 63. During conversion Beta converts glucose into maltose and maltotriose, the sugars that produce ale, glucose only makes alcohol. Secondary fermentation takes place when conversion occurs.
Moonshiners soak malt at 65, 66, because at the temperatures Alpha releases the highest volume of glucose from starch within one hour. The high temperatures rapidly denature Beta. Moonshiners purposely denature Beta because they don't need to waste time on a step that converts simple sugar, glucose that is already in the extract, into fermentable, complex types of sugar, purchase a secondary fermenter and wait for secondary fermentation to occur when an enzyme in yeast converts complex sugar back into the glucose that was already present in the extract. When conversion is skipped the beer is moonshiners beer regardless of the title on a recipe.
In the infusion method mash out is unnecessary. There is no reason to raise mash temperature to mash out temperature because the one hour rest denatured enzymes. The higher the rest temperature is above 65, 66, the quicker Alpha denatures. The step is sometimes used in the decoction method where low temperatures are used to preserve enzymes and where starch carry over is less of a concern. At 76, heat resistant, complex starch, amylopectin begins to rupture and enters into the extract when Alpha denatured causing starch carry over. In the decoction method mash is boiled which rapidly bursts amylopectin. During dextrinization and gelatinization Alpha liquefies amylopectin and releases tasteless, nonfermenting types of sugar, called limit dextrin, and pectin which forms body and mouthfeel. In the infusion method the rich, starch is thrown out with the spent mash and ingredients that loads extract with Beta Glucan and protein sludge are purchased to replace the already paid for starch.
A brewing system that recirculates hot extract through a grain bed for long periods of time causes over sparge which extracts tannin. Tannin extraction is based on time, temperature and pH and that is why vorlauf is limited to 10 minutes using a small volume of extract. If the commercial brewing system that you are purchasing is designed to work with single temperature infusion the brewing system will produce moonshiners beer. It will need to come with a magic wand in order to produce ale and lager or malt will need to contain magical properties that would allow the various enzymes in starch that work at various temperatures to work at a single, high, temperature within an hour without denaturing. Purchase a system capable of step mashing, at least pseudo, ale can be produced and you will be honest when you tell someone they are drinking ale. The brewing system will need to be capable of reaching each temperature step within 10 minutes and maintain the temperatures without using recirculated hot extract. Boiling water infusions can be used for rapidly raising mash temperature but the mash tun will have to be large enough to hold the extra water.
Thanks for all the great info Michael!
The brewtools B150 is capable of step mashing but with todays highly modified malts it's not at all a necessary step. I'd be surprised if many modern craft breweries step mash unless they have particular requirements or are making traditional styles with decoction mashing.