love your videos, Peter. Clear and entertaining. I've done lots of drawers in my time and i just put a couple of strips of double sided tape to the top edge of the drawer front. Position on your spacers and then slam, the top edge of the front into place. it'll stick for long enough to get those screws in.
I’m a new subscriber of yours and since I discovered you I spend hours watching your videos. You make a good content and inspire a lot of people . Keep up the good work ! Thanks for sharing with us your skills and your knowledge 👍
I do like the soft close draws. Did not know they were fully adjustable though. That has got to make life easier and less frustrating. You've done a fantastic job on those draws, mate 👍
This is brilliant! So much better than buying the “drawer front adjustable screws” that require like 12 steps each drawer to get it perfect. Thank you for sharing this!
Thanks! I did a 2-drawer cabinet way back - video #012 - that cover the process, albeit with Grass Dynapro runners rather than Blum. Might be worth a watch?
hi peter the blum hinges and drawer runners are excellent when i was able to work i always used blum clip on hinges and never had a problem with them in almost 20 years of using them a great video as usual from you with excellent work done on those units regards james
Awesome vid, drawer/fascia fitting is something I really don't like doing, Carpet tape and plastic spacers is what I use, but i will be looking at those runners, did not know you could get that much adjust-ability.
Those drawer slides are beautiful. They ARE available in the US, just not through the same retailer. Go to Amazon, search Blum Movento and there they are...even a few cents less expensive than in the UK. Thanks for the tip!
Hi Peter - since you go through the effort of putting shims on 4 sides to adjust the drawer or even 6 if you want proper separation at the top as well, not just side and bottom), could you use some double tape to position the face on the drawer then pull it and screw it in place ? Still enjoying your videos, which are a perfect complement to Paul Sellers.
I seen you showing off there Peter at the end with the one hand close on your draw ,its funny how over here MDF is frowned upon,,and when used properly and sealed ,it takes a nice glossy finish free of blemishes ,looking good Peter ,ill bet you used one of your Silver Sharpie Signed Super Squares in the building of this ...: )
MDF is often used "foiled" even in the production of high end kitchen cabinet fronts it's dead flat and hard and produces a long lasting smooth shiny surface. We have them in our kitchen, fitted with Blum hardware naturally and with custom CNC shaped 45mm thick oak worktops. Against a solid oak plank floor the effect often provokes a Wow from visitors.
Yea they like to vacuum seal them in vinyl after using a CNC to cut them out here ,but i dont think its viable in a small shop ,besides a nice painted and poly finish will give just about anything smooth long lasting finish ,even Peters" Artsy Handles ",i mm wondering when hes going to start painting his "Silver Sharpie Signed Super Squares "...: )
great video Peter ! thanks again. i was wondering if youve made a video on standard soft close runners ?? id love to know your take on how to fit those
Thanks Jim! Closest I’ve come is when I did my 2-drawer cabinet video way back (#012) - I was using Grass Dynapro runners back then, which are slightly different, but essentially the same👍
It was part of the ‘big job’ series, starts here - ua-cam.com/video/hFkfRg3UQC4/v-deo.html. This was a banquette, don’t think I talked about it in any detail tbh because it’s just a big box with drawers in, and there’s only so much you can say! 🤷♂️👍
Thanks for such great video and explanation. Quick question: You are adjusting those fasciae with a 1mm-1,5mm spacing. That piece of furniture is notpainted yet. So, what is the process you follow at the time of painting in order to prevent primer, paint and potentially some filler to build up so your tolerances are screwed up and you cannot fit the fasciae (in this case) anymore and you need to trim back to recover some space. As you can guess, this has happened to me :)
These were sprayed with a few coats of very thin paint; the effect of the paint on the final adjustments is negligible. If I was using a roller then I'd allow a little more of a gap, 1.5-2mm or thereabouts. 👍
Peter what the inset required for the Blum runners please, currently making a hall way shoe store and those Blum strides look just the ticket.thank you Nigel.
Hi. Depends on the thickness of the drawer box, drawer fascia inset or overlay etc.. etc.. I don’t do many drawers tbh so I generally make the drawer to fit the carcass (instructions at Blum.com) then tape the runners in place and until I find a position that works. Yeah, I know, I need to go on the Blum drawer course... 😬
Nice! I wish I had those drawer slides last year when I refaced my kitchen and replaced the drawers and doors! Those adjustments would have saved me much agony!
Very smart. Any reason you prefer this method over say the hot glue or double side tape method? Just personal preference thing? Always interesting hearing you and Andy talk about different methods of doing the same job.
Thanks. I’ve had double-sided tape let go when taking the drawer out, and find hot glue too thick - I’ve had to drill pilot holes, split the box from the fascia, scrape off the glue, then screw it together, so more work. 👍
Super helpful as usual Peter. I usually use double sided... but those drawer fronts look heavy!! Out of interest what level do you take you carcass to before 'it goes off to the sprayers' - and roughly what would you expect to pay for something that size to be professionally sprayed?
Thanks! I usually prep to P320 for spraying. Been a few years since I had anything sprayed professionally this kind of size, but from memory it was around £600 for a hi-gloss finish.
@@10MinuteWorkshop wow. ok, more than I thought! Peter, in order to try and give you something back this may be useful - I have been mucking around with many finishes on birch ply trying to preserve it's lovely blond/white colour - Treatex Hardwax Oil 11004 - Natural For Light Coloured Timber 1ltr is by far the best... even though I was reluctant to move away from my beloved Osmo. ps. have pre-ordered the Aldi bandsaw - they say they will be in stock from the 28th...
The only problem I’ve encountered with tight tolerance to face frame would be if the draw is loaded up with heavy items the runners can sag and the draw front catches
Those Blum Movento runners are very very nice but so expensive. Typically over £40.00 per pair! I suppose its are trade off between your time and cost of materials?
I typically pay less than £30/pair - e.g. www.trade-hinges.co.uk/movento-runners-1677-p.asp - which isn’t much more than regular Tandems. But sure, I understand they’re not cheap. 👍
Peter, I presume the carcass is 18mm MDF - is the carcass strong enough to act a seat? Could I use thinner MDF or ply? Think a copy of that would unit suit the wife a treat! (have to keep the girl happy!)
Yes, 18mm for the carcass, and yes, absolutely strong enough, though if you wanted to go thinner then I'd suggest a decent Birch ply; not sure why you'd want to go thinner though - the top edge/thickness isn't seen at all?? 🤔👍
I think I would just put some double sided tape on the fascia so that it sticks well enough to pull the drawer and fascia out together and then screw them together.
Great walkthrough, need to do a few drawer fronts myself soon so very helpful! Also are those through tenons on the carcasses done with the domino? Like how they turned out!
Peter Millard can you let me in on why you like this method better? Not trying to be contentious just wondering what I’m missing. Thanks for the great vids!
Hi your looks a lot of hassle ,I've not tried this myself but I've seen Jimmy diresta and one or two others do this - once have got your got your gaps with Ur spaces just use a little hot glue to hold the fascia in place when try open draw and screw from in side works for them if u try let us know how you found this method
It’s no hassle at all - much easier to do than to explain. The hot glue method works OK but the glue is so thick, you get a line between the box and the fascia. So then you have to drill the holes, break the fascia off, scrape off the glue, and re-screw. Which one was more hassle, again??
I find hot glue too thick, and I’ve had double-sided tape fail on me while removing he drawer. If they work for you, great, but I’ll stick with this way 👍
![Tricky Tracksaw Cuts [video 460]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ybSSZ5R31aI/mqdefault.jpg)
Peter's ability to explain these things by example is amazing. 👏👏👏
It's so obvious, once you think of it, which I didn't. Thanks for this it's something I won't forget.
love your videos, Peter. Clear and entertaining. I've done lots of drawers in my time and i just put a couple of strips of double sided tape to the top edge of the drawer front. Position on your spacers and then slam, the top edge of the front into place. it'll stick for long enough to get those screws in.
Those adjustable drawers are brilliant. Looks very good.
They are fantastic. Well worth the money👍👍
Never saw this justification possibilities. Thank you for showing this.
Pleasure 👍
Lovely work Peter them draw runners look superb 😁
Thanks James - they are very nice 👍
I’m a new subscriber of yours and since I discovered you I spend hours watching your videos. You make a good content and inspire a lot of people . Keep up the good work ! Thanks for sharing with us your skills and your knowledge 👍
Thank you! Really great to have this kind of feedback, very much appreciated! 👍👍
Nice job Peter, I like those runners.
Cheers Graham - the Movento’s are great 👍
I do like the soft close draws.
Did not know they were fully adjustable though.
That has got to make life easier and less frustrating.
You've done a fantastic job on those draws, mate 👍
Thanks Bill! And yes, those runners are worth every penny 👍
Same, I had no idea!
Nice work! I remember on a few occasions getting caught in a never ending adjusting war! Those hinges look great 👍
Thanks, they are! Well worth the money 👍
I’m a new subscriber, absolutely love the channel. I’m a 1st fixer so this kind of work is alien to me. Fascinates me!!
Hey Ross. Thanks, and welcome! 👍
Love your tricks Peter, keep them coming, thanks.
Thanks! 👍
Brilliant job Peter!
Will use those runners and your technique on my next project.
Thanks! 👍👍
Nice tutorial Peter !
Thanks Ian! 👍
Good tip to remember! Thanks Peter.
Not seen runners like that before, great vid. Thanks.
neither have I
And I imagine that since they are so accommodating,
they are probably expensive
Thanks! They’re not much more than regular Blum tandem runners tbh, so well worth it IMHO 👍
This is brilliant! So much better than buying the “drawer front adjustable screws” that require like 12 steps each drawer to get it perfect. Thank you for sharing this!
Pleasure! 👍👍
I have had good luck with double sided tape on the back of the drawer front. Love your videos! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! I’ve had double-sided tape let go when taking the drawer out- wasn’t a happy day 🤔
You need good quality tape Peter....never let me down but everyone as there own methods👍
Another great one, a video on domino drawers and runners would be much appreciated!!
Thanks! I did a 2-drawer cabinet way back - video #012 - that cover the process, albeit with Grass Dynapro runners rather than Blum. Might be worth a watch?
Nice tip. Not thought of doing it that way. Really good runners will give them a try
Thanks! And yes, the Movento’s are great 👍
hi peter
the blum hinges and drawer runners are excellent
when i was able to work i always used blum clip on hinges and never had a problem with them
in almost 20 years of using them
a great video as usual from you with excellent work done on those units
regards
james
Thanks James! Never had a problem with the either - top quality & maintenance free 👍👍
👍👍👍
It is so satisying and inspiring to watch you work Peter. I want to buy some power tools and just start making stuff in my shed!
Thanks! 👍
Nicely done.
Thanks!
Awesome vid, drawer/fascia fitting is something I really don't like doing, Carpet tape and plastic spacers is what I use, but i will be looking at those runners, did not know you could get that much adjust-ability.
Thanks! Yep, living these movento runners 👍
Best yet Peter-
loving those runners. Thank you for that insight...
Thanks Gaz 👍
I like to see how does adjustmentsare made on the drawer slides .they do my head in if i'am honest an stick to side mounted slides
Those drawer slides are beautiful. They ARE available in the US, just not through the same retailer. Go to Amazon, search Blum Movento and there they are...even a few cents less expensive than in the UK. Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for the Amazon.com tip! Great runners! 👍👍
Hi Peter - since you go through the effort of putting shims on 4 sides to adjust the drawer or even 6 if you want proper separation at the top as well, not just side and bottom), could you use some
double tape to position the face on the drawer then pull it and screw it in place ? Still enjoying your videos, which are a perfect complement to Paul Sellers.
Hi Pierre. Yes, you could do that; the trick is to get one that only grabs when you want it to, and not when you don’t! 👍👍
Hi will we be able to see the finished job it looks a lot of work and very nice to when will you have it all done and dusted?
Thanks! I’ll do my best, but it’s a big piece, and I’m tight on time 👍
Wonderful drawer slides. Not available in US?!! We're so behind! I use double sided tape to affix the fronts, works a treat.
They’re excellent, and apparently available from www.ahturf.com 👍
I seen you showing off there Peter at the end with the one hand close on your draw ,its funny how over here MDF is frowned upon,,and when used properly and sealed ,it takes a nice glossy finish free of blemishes ,looking good Peter ,ill bet you used one of your Silver Sharpie Signed Super Squares in the building of this ...: )
Thanks Syd - and yep, sure did 😂👍
MDF is often used "foiled" even in the production of high end kitchen cabinet fronts it's dead flat and hard and produces a long lasting smooth shiny surface. We have them in our kitchen, fitted with Blum hardware naturally and with custom CNC shaped 45mm thick oak worktops. Against a solid oak plank floor the effect often provokes a Wow from visitors.
Yea they like to vacuum seal them in vinyl after using a CNC to cut them out here ,but i dont think its viable in a small shop ,besides a nice painted and poly finish will give just about anything smooth long lasting finish ,even Peters" Artsy Handles ",i mm wondering when hes going to start painting his "Silver Sharpie Signed Super Squares "...: )
great video Peter ! thanks again.
i was wondering if youve made a video on standard soft close runners ??
id love to know your take on how to fit those
Thanks Jim! Closest I’ve come is when I did my 2-drawer cabinet video way back (#012) - I was using Grass Dynapro runners back then, which are slightly different, but essentially the same👍
Is 2mm clearance all round the drawer too much? As opposed to 1.5mm?
No, 2mm is generally fine, but I like to get them as tight as I can. 👌👍😆
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks Peter. Just in the process of draughting up a roll cabinet with drawers on slow close runners 👍
Nice! 👌
I use double sided tape works great
Through tenons - yes! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
👌👍💪
What are you building, and do you have a detailed vid of the construction ??
It was part of the ‘big job’ series, starts here - ua-cam.com/video/hFkfRg3UQC4/v-deo.html. This was a banquette, don’t think I talked about it in any detail tbh because it’s just a big box with drawers in, and there’s only so much you can say! 🤷♂️👍
Nice work with nice runners but how about low profile drawers and side runners instead? movento is good for high drawers bot not necessary for low
Youre precision is ….. uh, commendable. I go for the “no one will notice” look.
Haha, thanks! I just get better at hiding my mistakes, I think. 👍👍
Thanks for such great video and explanation. Quick question: You are adjusting those fasciae with a 1mm-1,5mm spacing. That piece of furniture is notpainted yet. So, what is the process you follow at the time of painting in order to prevent primer, paint and potentially some filler to build up so your tolerances are screwed up and you cannot fit the fasciae (in this case) anymore and you need to trim back to recover some space. As you can guess, this has happened to me :)
These were sprayed with a few coats of very thin paint; the effect of the paint on the final adjustments is negligible. If I was using a roller then I'd allow a little more of a gap, 1.5-2mm or thereabouts. 👍
Peter what the inset required for the Blum runners please, currently making a hall way shoe store and those Blum strides look just the ticket.thank you Nigel.
Hi. Depends on the thickness of the drawer box, drawer fascia inset or overlay etc.. etc.. I don’t do many drawers tbh so I generally make the drawer to fit the carcass (instructions at Blum.com) then tape the runners in place and until I find a position that works. Yeah, I know, I need to go on the Blum drawer course... 😬
Brilliant tip Peter!! Thanks. What's the depth of the rebate you allow for to mount the hardware underneath the draw? Cheers.
Thanks Nic! It’s typically a 13mm rebate below the drawer box to accommodate the drawer clips 👍
very nice
Thanks! 👍
If that design were any cleaner, it would be at home in an operating room. Beautiful work!
Haha, thank you! 👍👌
Nice! I wish I had those drawer slides last year when I refaced my kitchen and replaced the drawers and doors! Those adjustments would have saved me much agony!
Sure do!
What's the final gap after paint going to be? Now it's 1.5mm.
This is always my fear on my builds. To thick of paint....equels sticking drawers
They’re sprayed, so the paints going on pretty thin. But sure, always something to,watch out for 👍
Not found the 1.5mm packers yet.
Where do you get them please 🧐?
They’re not in every packer pack, but these ones were: Plastic packers - amzn.to/2vCDN27
Thanks Guys 👍
Those drawer slides are amazing but wow, they're very expensive.
I didn't realize Blum runners were that adjustable. That explains the cost.
Great video. What about 2sided tape to hold the front in place? Also, is mdf robust enough for drawer fronts and face frames?
Thanks! Yes, MR MDF is plenty robust enough. 👍👍
Those drawer runners are excellent, will you need to do anything with the outer edges of the mdf fascia before spraying Peter ?.
No, they’ve been sanded back to P320, that’s all they need. 👍
Very smart. Any reason you prefer this method over say the hot glue or double side tape method? Just personal preference thing? Always interesting hearing you and Andy talk about different methods of doing the same job.
Thanks. I’ve had double-sided tape let go when taking the drawer out, and find hot glue too thick - I’ve had to drill pilot holes, split the box from the fascia, scrape off the glue, then screw it together, so more work. 👍
Super helpful as usual Peter. I usually use double sided... but those drawer fronts look heavy!! Out of interest what level do you take you carcass to before 'it goes off to the sprayers' - and roughly what would you expect to pay for something that size to be professionally sprayed?
Thanks! I usually prep to P320 for spraying. Been a few years since I had anything sprayed professionally this kind of size, but from memory it was around £600 for a hi-gloss finish.
@@10MinuteWorkshop wow. ok, more than I thought! Peter, in order to try and give you something back this may be useful - I have been mucking around with many finishes on birch ply trying to preserve it's lovely blond/white colour - Treatex Hardwax Oil 11004 - Natural For Light Coloured Timber 1ltr is by far the best... even though I was reluctant to move away from my beloved Osmo. ps. have pre-ordered the Aldi bandsaw - they say they will be in stock from the 28th...
Really nice job, how did you mill the pull handle? Also how do you plan to finish the raw draw front edge's?
Thanks. Handle,was cut in the router, raw edges are finished in the usual way - see ‘Painting MDF’ video. 👍
The only problem I’ve encountered with tight tolerance to face frame would be if the draw is loaded up with heavy items the runners can sag and the draw front catches
Yep - in which case the drawers can still be adjusted to suit 👍
Great drawer slides, very smooth. Where do you get those packers from please?
The packers are widely available, but if you buy the ones from this link - amzn.to/2vCDN27 - you get the 1.5mm ones included👍
Hi Peter, where do you source your Movento runners from please?
You can get them from Amazon (link in the video description) but I mostly buy from trade-hinges.co.uk.
Can you confirm name of the drawer runners please
In the video description. Blum Movento runners - amzn.to/2rLdm7e (US: Don’t seem to be available, sorry)
Nice work but id recommend a gap of more than 1.5mm. With a bit of weight in the draw itll come close to rubbing at the bottom.
If that happens, they can be easily adjusted. 👍
Those Blum Movento runners are very very nice but so expensive. Typically over £40.00 per pair! I suppose its are trade off between your time and cost of materials?
I typically pay less than £30/pair - e.g. www.trade-hinges.co.uk/movento-runners-1677-p.asp - which isn’t much more than regular Tandems. But sure, I understand they’re not cheap. 👍
What if the client puts something heavy in the drawer box... won't it lower that bottom reveal?
There’s very little flex in these runners, but if someone does decide to store their gold bullion in them, there’s plenty of adjustment in them 👍
Is there an alternative to Blum? Charging £7 for delivery on a £25 item is a rip off and aren't on Amazon Prime.
There are lots of sources for Blum; only amazon have affiliate links, so buy them wherever you can. 👍
Hi Peter,thanks for the video, very informative as always. Do you ever use MRMDF, as I find it takes a better paint finish ?Cheers, Mark.
Hi Mark. I only use MR MDF - as you say, it takes paint very well, and has a much harder core than regular MDF, for not much more money 👍👍
So how many times have you put the drawer front on upside down 😀
If there’s no video it never happened 😂😂👍
Wow that's some sort of hinge.
Hinge? 🤔😉
I meant drawer slide ha .
hola Peter, que bueno seria si hubiese traduccion al castellano. felicitaciones por tus trabajos!!
¡Gracias! Eso está más allá de mis habilidades simples, lo siento. 🤷♂️👍👍
Peter, I presume the carcass is 18mm MDF - is the carcass strong enough to act a seat? Could I use thinner MDF or ply? Think a copy of that would unit suit the wife a treat! (have to keep the girl happy!)
Yes, 18mm for the carcass, and yes, absolutely strong enough, though if you wanted to go thinner then I'd suggest a decent Birch ply; not sure why you'd want to go thinner though - the top edge/thickness isn't seen at all?? 🤔👍
Simple reason for the question about thinner MDF - I have almost a full sheet of 12mm that presently is in the wood store. Thanks.
Thats a nice one , no more glue for me.;)
Me neither 😉👍
Better again use the same packers and some 2 part mitre glue to hold the drawer front in place then open, clamp in screw from the inside..
I think I would just put some double sided tape on the fascia so that it sticks well enough to pull the drawer and fascia out together and then screw them together.
If that works for you then great but I’ve had double-sided tape let go when taking the drawer out, so never again, not for me. 👍
Great walkthrough, need to do a few drawer fronts myself soon so very helpful! Also are those through tenons on the carcasses done with the domino? Like how they turned out!
Thanks! And yep I usually do ‘domi-drawers’ whether they end up painted or not; I just like them 😆👍
Double stick carpet tape
Yep, done that, done hot glue, done ‘screws and give it a thump’; I prefer this 👍
Peter Millard can you let me in on why you like this method better? Not trying to be contentious just wondering what I’m missing. Thanks for the great vids!
I’ve had carpet tape ‘let go’ when lifting the drawer box out = one mashed fascia. Hot glue is too thick, doesn’t have enough open time
Peter Millard fair enough, thanks!
I do it with double sided tape
You and everyone else, lol! If that works for you then great, but I’ve had double-sided tape let go when taking the drawer out; never again. 👍
Hi your looks a lot of hassle ,I've not tried this myself but I've seen Jimmy diresta and one or two others do this - once have got your got your gaps with Ur spaces just use a little hot glue to hold the fascia in place when try open draw and screw from in side works for them if u try let us know how you found this method
It’s no hassle at all - much easier to do than to explain. The hot glue method works OK but the glue is so thick, you get a line between the box and the fascia. So then you have to drill the holes, break the fascia off, scrape off the glue, and re-screw. Which one was more hassle, again??
Hot glue or even double sided tape, then fix with those fancy slides adjustment easy
I find hot glue too thick, and I’ve had double-sided tape fail on me while removing he drawer. If they work for you, great, but I’ll stick with this way 👍
i dont have the balls to make an all MDF cabinet D:
Hmmm... I read that title as, "Drawer Fascists". Pesky LD.