Try this recipe 1 part water: 1 part Alcohol 99%: 1 part glue: 2 parts titanium Dioxide. Only 1 coat needed. This makes a consistency that does not flake and does not create alot of dust when lasering. I found this better than the recipe shown here.
I tried the just the water with mixed results, then I saw your mixture with alcohol and glue, gave it a whirl, and super success. Thanks for sharing that. One light coat did the trick. Instead of shaking it, I mixed with a wide stick and got it thinned out, consistency is everything.
After a hit of frustration, I went to Michaels and bought a set of cheap white foam brushes. They are much softer and flexible yhan the standard black foam brushes. Not nearly as durable, but that is not the issue. So the trick is in the brush, kids white craft brush is the best for this application.
This method was my first attempt at tile and it was a disaster for me personally. I thought maybe it was the TIO2 not being food grade, I hit it with a stick mixer....changed consistancy...nothing but a mess. Went online looking for TIO2 with laser reviews on amazon and it took me back to the one I have. Saw several reviews about how well it worked on a 5:1 ratio of IPA to TIO2 in a spray bottle. Tried it and it looked like I had been doing it my whole life and was a pro at it. Dont know if it was specifically the TIO2 or something with my technique but using IPA in lieu of water and glue the solution was much more soluble and it perfectly coated my tile. YMMV
Where did you see the reviews for a 1:5 ratio of IPA to TiO2? I tried IPA with TiO2 and it looks grayish in my plastic spray bottle after some time . . . Do you think it's still okay?
This is the best method I have found. I’ve been using it for over a year with a little less water in my mix, done 100’s of tiles from 4” to 8”. The fact that no hash cleaners or spray paints are needed got me hooked! I like the poly foam brushes, they seem to be much better quality than the cheap foam ones. Also using red food coloring leaves the tiles a bright pink which really shows thin spots. I also use a hand blender to mix with. Still find some very small clumps which lead me to using paint strainers, the cheap paper kind. No more little white dots. With the right mix and a lot of test I’ve been doing some awesome grayscale! . Thanks for making this video! Our methods may differ a little but we achieve the same results!
to eliminate the dots as you said, Try using food grade Tio2 as it far mor finer, also i have found after it has dried i rub over the surface with some tissue/toilet paper this make the surface a lot more smoother so you get a better shinney finish. i like the idea that you said about the red food coloring and will try thx
Fantastic ! You were the one who got me started with the TIO2 in a spray bottle, I will now use this method as I agree that spraying went everywhere even though I was using a card board box. The glue makes perfect sense and brushing instead. Well done and thumbs up ! Cheers.
I got my laser recently and tried this method with outstanding success. I have made a bunch of tiles so far in various colours in addition to white. I have found i get better results using 2 coats and haven't needed to conduct tests every batch as the results are pretty much the same as long as i use the same ratio each time. Thanks again for the advice
You are correct, the spray makes a mess. I will be trying the brush method. I also like the mason jar as a good way to store the mix. Thanks for the tips
Just ran across your channel and the watched the two TIO2 videos. I am awestruck at the results you achieved on those tiles. I am relatively new to the world of lasers. I installed my Xtool S1 in mid January. I have never used a laser or the software before. I look forward to learning a great deal from you and your videos. It would be helpful to let your viewers to tell them what type of laser you are using and what power. You may have done this previously but as I said, I just found you. Thanks for sharing your expertise.
I LIKE this process and of course the results. I was thinking of using a turkey baster to drip the TIO2 on the tile but I like this. The dye is a good touch and I'm going to use that too. GREAT VIDEO.
That was a really great video. Excellent tip. I went out and got the ingredients immediately. Had to order the TIO2 from US though. Will try it on some tiles this weekend in my workshop here in Norway. I'm never gonna use zink-spray again and will not miss the hazzle of rubbing it off with steelwool under running water. Thanx again! By the way I love your graphic of the cat and witch. I'd be eternally greatful if you could point me in the direction where I can get hold of them.
I just tried this and tested other coatings and settings. Seems like the coatings matter MUCH more than the settings. Once I got dialed in, I did 3 coatings.... yours (Glue/TIO2/Water) and (Alcohol & TIO2) and Rustoleum 2X paint... all 1 coat each. On my CO2 80w, the glue one was by far the worse. (maybe diodes do this better)... but the ALC/TIO2 was VERY good. Just FYI for CO2 people out there. 3 parts 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, 1 part Titanium Dioxide (1 coat - dry 20 min) Settings: 40mm/s - 10% Power (max/min) - .064mm L.I.
Hey thanks a lot for the feedback. I don't have a co2 laser so that's interesting to know. I wonder could the CO2 power level just be to high? When I was testing this I found their was a point where to much power would just burn away the tio2.
@@lasersandsaws I think so... some said MORE POWER... then most say less. So I did my absolute minimum (10% which is actually 12% since mine won't got that low) and tweaked the speed and bingo. So, they just run too hot I assume. A lower watt CO2 or a diode is best apparently. When I did run it higher it was lighter grey AND just burned the ceramic coating off. Thanks!
@@brianwohn Thanks for sharing this. I tried using his water/glue/TiO2 mixture with my glowforge pro and just couldn't get it to work. I got good results with regular paint, though. I can't seem to get a smooth coat using Isopropyl Alcohol & TiO2, though, even when using the mist approach or when applying with a foam brush. Any tips for getting that mixture to be applied smoothly? I'd like to try it again, now that I've figured out how to apply spray paint evenly so that the prints turn out nice.
@lasersandsaws I just apply mine with a foam brush... but, I do 1 kinda thick coat, brush very lightly so it looks like an even coat, then thats it... let is dry (15 min or so). So far thats worked the best. 2 coats seems better, but doesn't burn as well. If you see some light spots, its going to streak when you burn it - so a nice even - heavy-ish coat seems to work good.
@@MatkatMusic I use a cheap Harbor Freight touch up paint gun, and it works amazingly well to apply it. Nice even coats, if of course, you have a compressor.
I just want to say that I get EXCELLENT results with acrylic craft paint, thinned and airbrushed. It doesn't wipe off prior to lasering. It's cheap - fifty cents per 2oz bottle. The results are dark and crisp - identical to tio2. It's washed off easily with water. 🤷♂
bang on work , there mate i love it , i have a sculpfun s9 5w , what settings for speed and laser would you suggest , as i can't seem to find what laser you are using , keep up the good work , thank you from the uk.
I am trying to follow the procedure using a creality falcon 2 (40w)… the material test was awesome and the best settings were %40 power, and 18333 on the speed, 400dpi and jarvis mode, but the final result on the actual engraving…not good😢. Idk what i am doing wrong, the most dark areas look great, but the grayend up weird…like the laser remove the glossy off the ceramic.
I'm not sure what might be happening. But maybe try less power. I found that to much power will vaporize the tio2. Also make sure your getting as even of a coat as you can. Sometimes if the coating is uneven there won't be TIO2 in some areas.
@@lasersandsaws found the issue, yes it was too much power but wasnt on purpose. Lightburn had like a bug, i set my power profile to %40 but was getting %100 and speed was also messed up. had tp lower the power down to %14 and raise the speed up to 25,000mm/min. After a lightburn patch this weekend...then it got messed up again, but this time %40 = %40 and 12,000mm/min its 12,000mm/min. the engraving is good now. Thanks for your response, really appreciate it.
Sorry bud, but I'm not sure what power machine you're using, so I'm not sure where to start with my test array. I am using a 20W Diode laser. Whatever you're using, I can adjust my test array accordingly. So, what power machine are you using, if you please. And I'll adjust my test grid/array so I cover what I think would be a good starting point. Otherwise, fantastic, well thought out video. Thanks for doing this.
I have never tried tiles but this is amazing. What is the science? Lasers cannot etch a glassy tile and the TiO2 makes the surface matte? Or does it cause an actual chemical reaction to take place similar to mustard on metal? Also, can this be used on other materials?
1) How long does it take to "burn" a 4x4 tile with 0.06 line interval at 5000 mm/min? ALSO 2), I noticed that it looks like you've made a kind of jig for your diode laser cutting area. Do you share that information anywhere? Thanks. Very helpful video. I haven't had any success yet, but your tutorial is sufficiently detailed and very straightforward . . . and I am hopeful.
very great job, ty, im going to use your method when i get my wecreat next month, question, after the wash an dry, can i spray a clear coat on it to seal it, or not needed?
Super Cool. I think this looks much less messier and easier to clean than spray paint. I know 1 part TIO2, but how much is that roughly? Not sure how big a bag to buy? 2 lb, 12 oz? Thanks!
Great video. I just took delivery of the ingredients to try this on tile. I have ben using painters touch spray paint and am looking forward to getting away from that for something more user friendly. Do you care to share where you found the witch image? I have been searching some of the normal laser pic sites and have not found it. Great work!
I've tried about every method to apply TiO2. My airbrush is the best/most consistent but there is terrible bounce back spray (fog). I had pretty good luck with a spray bottle but sometimes the spray spits and need to re-done. I tried this method today with one coat two directions as shown and my results were terrible. Maybe I'll try two coats. The surface looks very rough - with my airbrush and sprayer the surface looks very even and matte finish. Any suggestions to get this method down appreciated!
@lasersandsaws thanks! It'll just help give me an idea of where to start my test grid at. I have a Neje E80. Love the work you were able to do...thanks for sharing!
Is there some magic to making sure it is all mixed? I shook the heck out of it and it doesn't seem to have all dissolved. The powder wasn't lumpy. It was nice and fluffy, so that's not it. Any problem using warm or even hot water to it dissolves more?
About 4 minutes 30 seconds into this video, your test grid is shown. Several of the squares have vertical bars in them. I have noticed this in my test grids on tile as well. Do you know what causes this?
9:40 i tried this for the first time. I've done a fair number of tiles using rustoleum TiO² with pretty good results, but the prep and clean up are a pain. Really like the prep and clean up. Having trouble getting a consistent layer of the mix on the tile. I'm using a standard black foam brush from Home Depot. In the video looks like he is using something different, any ideas?
Thank you Sir for your video on Ceramic Tile engraving using TiO2 . I noticed the engraving looks good with Speed 5000 mm/mim, Power 30% upwards. What is the wattage of your engraver. I'm using AtomStack A20 which is 130W. Thank you
@@lasersandsaws Thank you. In this case due to higher wattage I should set my machine to try out at 2500 to 2800mm/mim and 45% Power. Hope it will work. If it don't come out well I'll have to change back to my AtomStack 10 watt module and try out at 4500 mm/mim and 45% Power. Thank you
This is strange...I just got an ortur H10 (20W) and my sweet spot is 1000mm/min @ 100%, am getting similar results with Smoky Beige Rustoleum so I know its not the mix. TiO2 starts to cook at speeds below 500@100% but based on your speeds you're going faster by an order of magnitude and half wattage...I have cleaned the lens...what the heck could be up?
Hi from France ! I have to try too but i haven't the glue you use. Perhaps i can find another glue or perhaps i can try using arabic gum as a binder or even gelatin ... I will tell you Olivier
I'm guessing the tio2 doesn't dissolve all the way. It doesn't seem to matter what mixture I use. Yours, the one with alcohol etc. Mine doesn't look the way yours does. And does not apply like yours does. Mine has lines and a bunch of powder. Doesn't matter if I spray or use the foam brush. I'm guessing my mixture isn't right, or something. I haven't even tried to engrave on them yet because I don't think it would even work. Any suggestions?
This looks so cool I will have to try it ;-) BTW, does anyone know what the chemical reaction is to cause the PVA/TiO2 to become black? Maybe the student who is working on a thesis project may know (or can find out and report back ;-) I realize that it might not be as simple as the PVA carbonizing, and the TiO2 acting as a heat sync. It could be reacting with the fired glaze. That said, it might also be interesting to see if simple low-fire clear glaze formulas (possibly mixed with TiO2 as well) would actually bind to the fired ceramic glaze. Hmmm... you have given me lots of ideas to play with.
Wenn Sie die Mischung in einem verschlossenen Glas aufbewahren, ist sie lange haltbar. Sie müssen es nur vor der Verwendung gut umrühren. Es ist grün, weil ich Lebensmittelfarbe hinzugefügt habe, damit es besser zu erkennen ist.
I've actually wondered this as well. Brushing doesn't seem to be working for me, but, it also could have been some super cheap Dollar Tree glue in my first mixture that caused the issues... I have another batch made up with Elmer's glue, so I'll see how it goes.
I guess it sticks to the tile. I saw reports that after alcohol evaporated, it remains only some TiO2 dust, which can be blown away by the air assist (or even the laser fan). As usual, it is up to everybody to experiment, that's the base of lasering various materials (and part of the fun, as a hobbyst).
I'm getting bubbles. Cant get rid of them. Shake it hard or shake it light. I get bubbles and they dry as bubbles and cause ugly black dots whereever a bubble is when engraved. Any idea why? I double checked your video again and i mixed it the same way as you. I have no clue why its doing this. 🤷♂️
Does anyone know if this would work on powder coat on an aluminum guitar pedal enclosure? I am looking for a way to laser etch my guitar pedal graphics and I am wondering if this technique would work on that, or does this only work on tile?
Haven't tried it but I think it will work. At the end of this video I put some art on a distortion pedal that was painted. ua-cam.com/video/WvwoD_dwG1o/v-deo.html
I have been trying to find a good baseline for settings to use on a CO2 laser for this. I have the XTool P2 55W and I haven't had any luck finding the right settings. Every time I try this, the laser burns through the surface of the tile and it leaves a carved out mess. I know my settings are wrong, either too slow or too much power but I can't figure out a good range to use. Any suggestions would be really appreciated. Thanks!
Your on the right track. When it starts carving your power is way to high or your way to slow. The machine I used is only 10 watts and I only needed 45% power at 5000 mm/m. Anything over 45% and I started getting burnoff and carves in the tile.
This looks really good but the TiO2 should really be in weight. Usually liquids in volume, solids in weight. For example, 150 ml water, 50 ml glue, X grams Ti02. Also, this way, you don't have to run the material test grid every time since the recipe is exactly the same everytime.
hello , I have tried your recipe with pva glue and have no success many bubbles on the first coat and irregular painted areas I prefer alcohol and a spray bottle
I really love the process and result, but I wonder: All these people starting to laser tiles. What are the tiles going to be used for? Are there people actually placing new tiles somewhere in their homes just because now they have laser-marked ones? I'd love to create some, but is there really a market?
@@lasersandsaws thanks. One day we will have the technology to get solid white or alpha background generated for content from prompts alone, but I guess not yet.
I did the three parts water and 1 of each the glue and TIO2 with a shotglass but the mixture is still really liquidly and I tried letting it sit for awhileTHEN applying it then letting it dry and lasering it with my ortur 20w diode laser but it barley made any black at these settings and what was weirder is I tried a slower speed and a higher power(85 watts lol) and it has an even lighter shade xD. any tips for the mixture? what's its consistency supposed to be like? Did I have it too thin?
Try this recipe 1 part water: 1 part Alcohol 99%: 1 part glue: 2 parts titanium Dioxide.
Only 1 coat needed.
This makes a consistency that does not flake and does not create alot of dust when lasering. I found this better than the recipe shown here.
Thanks, dude.
i didnt get it.
I tried the just the water with mixed results, then I saw your mixture with alcohol and glue, gave it a whirl, and super success. Thanks for sharing that. One light coat did the trick. Instead of shaking it, I mixed with a wide stick and got it thinned out, consistency is everything.
After a hit of frustration, I went to Michaels and bought a set of cheap white foam brushes. They are much softer and flexible yhan the standard black foam brushes. Not nearly as durable, but that is not the issue. So the trick is in the brush, kids white craft brush is the best for this application.
This method was my first attempt at tile and it was a disaster for me personally. I thought maybe it was the TIO2 not being food grade, I hit it with a stick mixer....changed consistancy...nothing but a mess. Went online looking for TIO2 with laser reviews on amazon and it took me back to the one I have. Saw several reviews about how well it worked on a 5:1 ratio of IPA to TIO2 in a spray bottle. Tried it and it looked like I had been doing it my whole life and was a pro at it. Dont know if it was specifically the TIO2 or something with my technique but using IPA in lieu of water and glue the solution was much more soluble and it perfectly coated my tile. YMMV
Nice, glad you found a way that worked for you. Thanks for sharing.
Where did you see the reviews for a 1:5 ratio of IPA to TiO2? I tried IPA with TiO2 and it looks grayish in my plastic spray bottle after some time . . . Do you think it's still okay?
@@jbrondos I just realized I misspoke earlier. Ratio was 1 part tio2 to 5 parts ipa, will try to correct it
What is IPA?
@@enduring-life isopropyl alcohol
This is the best method I have found. I’ve been using it for over a year with a little less water in my mix, done 100’s of tiles from 4” to 8”. The fact that no hash cleaners or spray paints are needed got me hooked! I like the poly foam brushes, they seem to be much better quality than the cheap foam ones. Also using red food coloring leaves the tiles a bright pink which really shows thin spots. I also use a hand blender to mix with. Still find some very small clumps which lead me to using paint strainers, the cheap paper kind. No more little white dots. With the right mix and a lot of test I’ve been doing some awesome grayscale! . Thanks for making this video! Our methods may differ a little but we achieve the same results!
to eliminate the dots as you said, Try using food grade Tio2 as it far mor finer, also i have found after it has dried i rub over the surface with some tissue/toilet paper this make the surface a lot more smoother so you get a better shinney finish.
i like the idea that you said about the red food coloring and will try thx
Fantastic ! You were the one who got me started with the TIO2 in a spray bottle, I will now use this method as I agree that spraying went everywhere even though I was using a card board box. The glue makes perfect sense and brushing instead. Well done and thumbs up ! Cheers.
I got my laser recently and tried this method with outstanding success. I have made a bunch of tiles so far in various colours in addition to white. I have found i get better results using 2 coats and haven't needed to conduct tests every batch as the results are pretty much the same as long as i use the same ratio each time. Thanks again for the advice
I have started using 2 coats also. Your right, as long as the mix stays the same the results are consistent. Thanks for your comment.
You are correct, the spray makes a mess. I will be trying the brush method. I also like the mason jar as a good way to store the mix. Thanks for the tips
Just ran across your channel and the watched the two TIO2 videos. I am awestruck at the results you achieved on those tiles. I am relatively new to the world of lasers. I installed my Xtool S1 in mid January. I have never used a laser or the software before. I look forward to learning a great deal from you and your videos. It would be helpful to let your viewers to tell them what type of laser you are using and what power. You may have done this previously but as I said, I just found you. Thanks for sharing your expertise.
I used a 10 watt Roly laser on all of the tile videos. Thanks for the comment.
Like the Idea of the Glue and food coloring great addition.
I tried this last night. Wow! Better than my old method. Thank you for sharing this.
I LIKE this process and of course the results. I was thinking of using a turkey baster to drip the TIO2 on the tile but I like this. The dye is a good touch and I'm going to use that too. GREAT VIDEO.
Excellent work. Really cuts back on the mess that TIO2 can make.
That was a really great video. Excellent tip. I went out and got the ingredients immediately. Had to order the TIO2 from US though. Will try it on some tiles this weekend in my workshop here in Norway. I'm never gonna use zink-spray again and will not miss the hazzle of rubbing it off with steelwool under running water. Thanx again! By the way I love your graphic of the cat and witch. I'd be eternally greatful if you could point me in the direction where I can get hold of them.
That looks really good. Might have to try some of this stuff. Thanks!
Thanks for preparing this video. I haven't tried lasering on tile yet, so this has answered a lot of my questions. "Subscribed"
EPIC, MATE! Thanks for this. I'm a ceramic artist and have plenty of Titanium diox.
very cool technique...thanks for sharing!
Thank you.
The results look incredible, well done, out of interest have you every tried this process on clear glass?
I haven't tried but people have told me it works.
I just tried this and tested other coatings and settings. Seems like the coatings matter MUCH more than the settings. Once I got dialed in, I did 3 coatings.... yours (Glue/TIO2/Water) and (Alcohol & TIO2) and Rustoleum 2X paint... all 1 coat each. On my CO2 80w, the glue one was by far the worse. (maybe diodes do this better)... but the ALC/TIO2 was VERY good. Just FYI for CO2 people out there.
3 parts 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, 1 part Titanium Dioxide (1 coat - dry 20 min)
Settings: 40mm/s - 10% Power (max/min) - .064mm L.I.
Hey thanks a lot for the feedback. I don't have a co2 laser so that's interesting to know. I wonder could the CO2 power level just be to high? When I was testing this I found their was a point where to much power would just burn away the tio2.
@@lasersandsaws I think so... some said MORE POWER... then most say less. So I did my absolute minimum (10% which is actually 12% since mine won't got that low) and tweaked the speed and bingo. So, they just run too hot I assume. A lower watt CO2 or a diode is best apparently. When I did run it higher it was lighter grey AND just burned the ceramic coating off. Thanks!
@@brianwohn Thanks for sharing this. I tried using his water/glue/TiO2 mixture with my glowforge pro and just couldn't get it to work. I got good results with regular paint, though. I can't seem to get a smooth coat using Isopropyl Alcohol & TiO2, though, even when using the mist approach or when applying with a foam brush. Any tips for getting that mixture to be applied smoothly? I'd like to try it again, now that I've figured out how to apply spray paint evenly so that the prints turn out nice.
@lasersandsaws I just apply mine with a foam brush... but, I do 1 kinda thick coat, brush very lightly so it looks like an even coat, then thats it... let is dry (15 min or so). So far thats worked the best. 2 coats seems better, but doesn't burn as well. If you see some light spots, its going to streak when you burn it - so a nice even - heavy-ish coat seems to work good.
@@MatkatMusic I use a cheap Harbor Freight touch up paint gun, and it works amazingly well to apply it. Nice even coats, if of course, you have a compressor.
I just want to say that I get EXCELLENT results with acrylic craft paint, thinned and airbrushed. It doesn't wipe off prior to lasering. It's cheap - fifty cents per 2oz bottle. The results are dark and crisp - identical to tio2. It's washed off easily with water. 🤷♂
Thanks for trying the brush on method suggested in the first video.
Great ideas for this process!!! I will be trying this way soon!
bang on work , there mate i love it , i have a sculpfun s9 5w , what settings for speed and laser would you suggest , as i can't seem to find what laser you are using , keep up the good work , thank you from the uk.
Thank you for sharing your results
I am trying to follow the procedure using a creality falcon 2 (40w)… the material test was awesome and the best settings were %40 power, and 18333 on the speed, 400dpi and jarvis mode, but the final result on the actual engraving…not good😢. Idk what i am doing wrong, the most dark areas look great, but the grayend up weird…like the laser remove the glossy off the ceramic.
I'm not sure what might be happening. But maybe try less power. I found that to much power will vaporize the tio2. Also make sure your getting as even of a coat as you can. Sometimes if the coating is uneven there won't be TIO2 in some areas.
@@lasersandsaws found the issue, yes it was too much power but wasnt on purpose. Lightburn had like a bug, i set my power profile to %40 but was getting %100 and speed was also messed up. had tp lower the power down to %14 and raise the speed up to 25,000mm/min. After a lightburn patch this weekend...then it got messed up again, but this time %40 = %40 and 12,000mm/min its 12,000mm/min. the engraving is good now. Thanks for your response, really appreciate it.
Just found this and it has made my tile engraving so much easier. Would live to know where the Halloween art came from.
Where did you get your pictures to engrave? They are awesome! I am going to try your recipe. I appreciate this video.
Sorry bud, but I'm not sure what power machine you're using, so I'm not sure where to start with my test array. I am using a 20W Diode laser. Whatever you're using, I can adjust my test array accordingly.
So, what power machine are you using, if you please. And I'll adjust my test grid/array so I cover what I think would be a good starting point.
Otherwise, fantastic, well thought out video. Thanks for doing this.
Thanks for the comment. I used a 10 watt laser on these.
I have never tried tiles but this is amazing. What is the science? Lasers cannot etch a glassy tile and the TiO2 makes the surface matte? Or does it cause an actual chemical reaction to take place similar to mustard on metal? Also, can this be used on other materials?
Not sure what kind of laser you have but my 60w CO2 etches tiles very well...
@@imagineengine also to say my 10w etches glossy tiles without Tio2 but looks awful and it cuts to a depth of 1.5 mm into the tile first pass
1) How long does it take to "burn" a 4x4 tile with 0.06 line interval at 5000 mm/min? ALSO 2), I noticed that it looks like you've made a kind of jig for your diode laser cutting area. Do you share that information anywhere? Thanks. Very helpful video. I haven't had any success yet, but your tutorial is sufficiently detailed and very straightforward . . . and I am hopeful.
If you email me I have the file for the jig but you would need to modify it to fit your machine.
The school glue was a good tip. The plain water TiO mix can be streaky. Your video makes me want to see what else you have on You Tube.
great stuff. i'm eager to try it. just need to figure out where to get TiO2
Found mine on Amazon.
@@lasersandsaws thanks. it seems to be used as pigment so maybe paint dealers have it too.
Wooow A superb job! Congratulationss!! your videos are really good Clear and easy!! I just have one question: what is TIO2?
Titanium dioxide.
Thanks for the reply!! Sorry for the inconvenience once again, but in what kind of store can you get it?
@@ivanortegagarcia588 I got mine from Amazon.
Many Thanks one more time!
They look amazing 🙂, Great video
very great job, ty, im going to use your method when i get my wecreat next month, question, after the wash an dry, can i spray a clear coat on it to seal it, or not needed?
Don’t think you need to seal it … this is burned into the tile
Where do you find such as awesome graphics, i love them !!
Super Cool. I think this looks much less messier and easier to clean than spray paint. I know 1 part TIO2, but how much is that roughly? Not sure how big a bag to buy? 2 lb, 12 oz? Thanks!
Do you have a source for those Halloween images? The witch is especially awesome.
Great stuff, I'll have to try it. I'd love to know what your Lines Per Inch setting is as I have a LaserMATIC as well.
Very nice !
I will try but i choose another glue for testing
very nice! Do you change anything in lightburn on the adjust image tab? Contrast,etc
What is the tile useful for or is it just to frame and hang. How durable is the finished products? Thanks.
This looks awesome! Where do you get those images?
So is this actually burning the tile or heat setting the solution to the surface? Thx
Have you tried using a pearl pigment instead of standard TIO2? Has TIO2 in it, curious to see how it works, going to pick some up today.
Great Video! I have been using a spray bottle and end up getting Tio2 on the floor!
Very inspirational thanks. What are settings for doing this? I have a 10 watt diode. Thanks
Great video. I just took delivery of the ingredients to try this on tile. I have ben using painters touch spray paint and am looking forward to getting away from that for something more user friendly. Do you care to share where you found the witch image? I have been searching some of the normal laser pic sites and have not found it. Great work!
I can send it to you if you email me.
@@lasersandsaws I don’t see your email on your you tube channel
@@mikeschreiber9352 lasersandsaws@gmail.com
Very cool. I didnt know about TIO2 until just now when I watched your video. Is it permanent? Can I use a CO2 laser?
It's permanent but I don't have a CO2 laser so not sure about that part of your question.
thanks for getting back to me.
@@lasersandsaws
I've tried about every method to apply TiO2. My airbrush is the best/most consistent but there is terrible bounce back spray (fog). I had pretty good luck with a spray bottle but sometimes the spray spits and need to re-done. I tried this method today with one coat two directions as shown and my results were terrible. Maybe I'll try two coats. The surface looks very rough - with my airbrush and sprayer the surface looks very even and matte finish. Any suggestions to get this method down appreciated!
Can you do a tutorial on your process for managing / creating the image prior to burning. Please?😁
I'd be interested in this too!
I’d like this too
Very nice job! can you tell me how the smell is when laser engraving with this coating Thanks
I have a ventilation system so I don't ever smell anything.
Excellent! What laser do you use? Knowing the power and speed is only semi helpful if we don't know the laser :)
I used a Roly lasermatic 10 for these.
@lasersandsaws thanks! It'll just help give me an idea of where to start my test grid at. I have a Neje E80.
Love the work you were able to do...thanks for sharing!
Is there some magic to making sure it is all mixed? I shook the heck out of it and it doesn't seem to have all dissolved. The powder wasn't lumpy. It was nice and fluffy, so that's not it. Any problem using warm or even hot water to it dissolves more?
It doesn't dissolve. It's suspended in the liquid. That is why you have to shake it every time you use it.
Great project. Very impressive.
How did you avoid the lines that show up in the "paint" from the paint-on process when it's engraved? Mine ends up with lines throughout.
About 4 minutes 30 seconds into this video, your test grid is shown. Several of the squares have vertical bars in them. I have noticed this in my test grids on tile as well. Do you know what causes this?
No I don't know the cause. But it never shows up in the final image.
Amazing job where do you get those images. If you don't mind
Beautiful!
9:40 i tried this for the first time. I've done a fair number of tiles using rustoleum TiO² with pretty good results, but the prep and clean up are a pain. Really like the prep and clean up. Having trouble getting a consistent layer of the mix on the tile. I'm using a standard black foam brush from Home Depot. In the video looks like he is using something different, any ideas?
I used foam brush from walmart. I found the layer of tio2 goes on better if you use a very light touch. If you push to hard it smears.
Would you use the same technique for clear glass? I'm just getting started and I'm looking for information. Thank you.
Thank you Sir for your video on Ceramic Tile engraving using TiO2 . I noticed the engraving looks good with Speed 5000 mm/mim, Power 30% upwards. What is the wattage of your engraver. I'm using AtomStack A20 which is 130W. Thank you
I used a 10w roly lasermatic.. 4500 mm/m and 45% power was my sweet spot.
@@lasersandsaws Thank you. In this case due to higher wattage I should set my machine to try out at 2500 to 2800mm/mim and 45% Power. Hope it will work. If it don't come out well I'll have to change back to my AtomStack 10 watt module and try out at 4500 mm/mim and 45% Power. Thank you
This is strange...I just got an ortur H10 (20W) and my sweet spot is 1000mm/min @ 100%, am getting similar results with Smoky Beige Rustoleum so I know its not the mix. TiO2 starts to cook at speeds below 500@100% but based on your speeds you're going faster by an order of magnitude and half wattage...I have cleaned the lens...what the heck could be up?
Hi from France !
I have to try too but i haven't the glue you use.
Perhaps i can find another glue or perhaps i can try using arabic gum as a binder or even gelatin ...
I will tell you
Olivier
PVA glue is what you want.
Now.... that's a Sub! nice tuts. have you tried it using XCS?
Have to ask: what is the source for those images? I love them!
how long does the marking last? Does it wash off after a year?
I haven't seen any come off.
So some use isopropyl alcohol as the mixture...you use water and glue. Is there a different result with each one? Does it matter what is used? Thanks!
Great, what engraver does it take to get those results?
Is there any health concerns with using this in the laser? I vent it outside but just want to make sure no concerns just in case. Thx
I'm a newby to this and had to look up TI02. Besides tiles, where else would you use this product?
Excellent ! Thanks.
I'm guessing the tio2 doesn't dissolve all the way. It doesn't seem to matter what mixture I use. Yours, the one with alcohol etc.
Mine doesn't look the way yours does. And does not apply like yours does. Mine has lines and a bunch of powder. Doesn't matter if I spray or use the foam brush. I'm guessing my mixture isn't right, or something. I haven't even tried to engrave on them yet because I don't think it would even work. Any suggestions?
The Tio2 won't dissolve. The alcohol is just a carrier for the Tio2. My only suggestion would be to try and engrave a test grid and see how it looks.
Same here!!Any progress till today?
will it work with greyscale method?
This looks so cool I will have to try it ;-) BTW, does anyone know what the chemical reaction is to cause the PVA/TiO2 to become black? Maybe the student who is working on a thesis project may know (or can find out and report back ;-) I realize that it might not be as simple as the PVA carbonizing, and the TiO2 acting as a heat sync. It could be reacting with the fired glaze. That said, it might also be interesting to see if simple low-fire clear glaze formulas (possibly mixed with TiO2 as well) would actually bind to the fired ceramic glaze. Hmmm... you have given me lots of ideas to play with.
Are you only doing one coat , or multiple coats ?
I tried making this mixture, I shook it for a long time, I still have white specks, I assume Tio2 that aren't mixing in.
Hi
Was für eine grüne Farbe ist das und ist der Mix haltbar wenn er verschlossen ist
Wenn Sie die Mischung in einem verschlossenen Glas aufbewahren, ist sie lange haltbar. Sie müssen es nur vor der Verwendung gut umrühren. Es ist grün, weil ich Lebensmittelfarbe hinzugefügt habe, damit es besser zu erkennen ist.
want to ask..can it be for OUTSIDE ? or it will be decrease quality in time? i mean engraved tile with this method
It is permanent. The TI02 is fused to the tile.
Would submerging the tile in a shallow tray work better for an even coat perhaps.
I've actually wondered this as well. Brushing doesn't seem to be working for me, but, it also could have been some super cheap Dollar Tree glue in my first mixture that caused the issues... I have another batch made up with Elmer's glue, so I'll see how it goes.
What does the glue do differently than the various alcohols I have seen folks use in other videos?
I guess it sticks to the tile. I saw reports that after alcohol evaporated, it remains only some TiO2 dust, which can be blown away by the air assist (or even the laser fan). As usual, it is up to everybody to experiment, that's the base of lasering various materials (and part of the fun, as a hobbyst).
I'm getting bubbles. Cant get rid of them. Shake it hard or shake it light. I get bubbles and they dry as bubbles and cause ugly black dots whereever a bubble is when engraved. Any idea why? I double checked your video again and i mixed it the same way as you. I have no clue why its doing this. 🤷♂️
Yeap...same here...False advertising. I did the same and with identical results as yours!
Does anyone know if this would work on powder coat on an aluminum guitar pedal enclosure? I am looking for a way to laser etch my guitar pedal graphics and I am wondering if this technique would work on that, or does this only work on tile?
Haven't tried it but I think it will work. At the end of this video I put some art on a distortion pedal that was painted. ua-cam.com/video/WvwoD_dwG1o/v-deo.html
@@lasersandsaws Thanks, I will take a look at that
Can you use this mixture on metal
sweet. Were do you find your artwork?
I have been trying to find a good baseline for settings to use on a CO2 laser for this. I have the XTool P2 55W and I haven't had any luck finding the right settings. Every time I try this, the laser burns through the surface of the tile and it leaves a carved out mess. I know my settings are wrong, either too slow or too much power but I can't figure out a good range to use. Any suggestions would be really appreciated. Thanks!
Your on the right track. When it starts carving your power is way to high or your way to slow. The machine I used is only 10 watts and I only needed 45% power at 5000 mm/m. Anything over 45% and I started getting burnoff and carves in the tile.
9 power 78 speed 300 lpi.
This looks really good but the TiO2 should really be in weight. Usually liquids in volume, solids in weight. For example, 150 ml water, 50 ml glue, X grams Ti02. Also, this way, you don't have to run the material test grid every time since the recipe is exactly the same everytime.
Do you have a good ratio for this?
Where did you get those pictures from?
Is the tile resistant to abrasion after lasering or can the engraving rub off and leave marks?
It's permanent.
@lasersandsaws what laser do you have that can run over 400dpi ? what is the dot size ?
glass or matte tile is better? and why u used white food color and not any other color?
I used green dye. I'm not sure which tile is better. I haven't compared them.
hello , I have tried your recipe with pva glue and have no success many bubbles on the first coat and irregular painted areas I prefer alcohol and a spray bottle
does this method work on any color tiles or just white
What laser were you using, wattage?
I used a Roly 10 watt laser.
How well does this work unglazed ceramic tile?
I really love the process and result, but I wonder: All these people starting to laser tiles. What are the tiles going to be used for? Are there people actually placing new tiles somewhere in their homes just because now they have laser-marked ones? I'd love to create some, but is there really a market?
Coasters
have you tried this with any photorealsitc images? IE an actual photo?
Will this work for etching glass?
If these images are AI generated, which I think they are, how do you get it to generate a solid white background? What prompts and what models?
I edit the image in PS6 to get the white background.
@@lasersandsaws thanks. One day we will have the technology to get solid white or alpha background generated for content from prompts alone, but I guess not yet.
I did the three parts water and 1 of each the glue and TIO2 with a shotglass but the mixture is still really liquidly and I tried letting it sit for awhileTHEN applying it then letting it dry and lasering it with my ortur 20w diode laser but it barley made any black at these settings and what was weirder is I tried a slower speed and a higher power(85 watts lol) and it has an even lighter shade xD. any tips for the mixture? what's its consistency supposed to be like? Did I have it too thin?
Where do you get the images from