How To Climb Harder Without Getting Stronger (ft. Eric Hörst)
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- FULL PODCAST EPISODE 🎙️
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In today’s episode, Tom Randall sits down with Eric Hörst, to discuss the changes and needs of the body with age, when climbing and training.During this episode, Tom dives deep into Eric’s training journey, exploring how his approach has evolved over time. They discuss key topics such as strength and power training, the relevance of endurance training for older athletes, and Eric’s effective use of high-intensity interval training. Additionally, they touch upon recovery strategies, including work-to-rest mesocycle lengths, and Eric shares a valuable lesson from his personal nutrition journey.
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@LatticeTraining, this came at the perfect time to help motivate me. At 54 years old, I have been stalled at 5.10- for about 2 years now, and just started to go harder. Not because of a strength gain, but merely a psychological change and slowly gaining technical skill.
Well this makes me feel better considering I started in my mid 30s! what an inspiration!
Anyone else here started the climbing late? I started climbing over 40 and have only just turned 43 (to be fair I was already relatively fit). I'm not too fussed about leaps and bounds of strength etc, but it seems to me I do need to progress to climb things I want to climb, but without the years of conditioning. I find working out on rings easy, developing new strength and coordination around shoulders and arms, but still really struggling to develop finger strength without feeling they are close to strain and injury, and this includes hangboarding or intensive climbing. There's more people trying to dispel the 'myth' of hangboarding danger for new climbers, but I can't help but feel it is still there
Definitely can relate to this!
If you start at the age 7, you might peak at 25. When you start at 40, your peak might be 51.
Started at 38-and-a-bit and recently turned 40. I have made slow but reasonably consistent gains in finger strength from close to day one. I have had the occasional tweak but nothing I would call an injury. I think the tweaks are mild synovitis. Note that I believe I did start with very weak fingers (and I think they still are weak, just stronger than before).
Regarding board protocol, this has been once a week pretty consistently (at least 45 weeks in a year). First 2 months were 30 second "health hangs". For the next year I did a 3 week/1 week cycle, where I did either 10/5 repeaters or 10 second max hangs for three weeks, then 30 second health hangs on a rest week. I could not get gains on repeaters and felt I was going backwards. 10 second maxes worked for me. In this first year I went from taking 20kg off to half crimp a 20mm edge to adding 5kg. The gains came in fits and starts. For example, it seemed to take ages to hang bodyweight, but after hitting that, I quickly hit 3kg. On occasion I did go backwards, but just made sure I tried hard. I sometimes felt a bit tweaky going into a fingerboard session, but the fingerboard never made it worse. The rest week with 30 second health hangs always made my fingers feel less tweaky. Any tweaks I gained were on the wall, not fingerboarding.
At the start of this year I switched to a 2 on-1 off cycle and immediately gained some more. As of June my best 10 second was +15kg, with 18kg just around the corner (I could do 7 seconds). I've since switched to 5 seconds hangs and am gaining on a 15mm edge beyond body weight. I still swear by the 30 second health hangs.
There are a couple of things I did to help with sore/tweaky feeling fingers. One was extensor bands, following a kind of repeater protocol (e.g. extend for 5 secs/rest for 5 secs, 6 to 16 reps, 3 sets). I thought this helped with very mild synovitis at the dip joint of my middle 2 fingers. However, I stopped doing this a few months ago and it hasn't cost me, so it's shelved for now. The other thing I do is a stretch from MacLeod's Make or Break, where you stretch the fingers sideways. The idea is this adds a little more "play" to the joints so you're less likely to tweak something. The medical evidence is not clear on the effectiveness of this (at least at the time Make or Break was written). It is intended as a preventative measure, but personally I have also found it to be therapeutic when I feel a little tweaky.
Fortunately I am yet to experience any other finger issues apart from what you might expect from working any part of your body hard.
Started at 58, now 71, can hangboard what I think is ok; very poor at pull ups, currently concentrating on flexibility; fairly static on results over the 12 years.🙂
@@simonwilliams9850I'd love to say I can help but I don't think I've experienced your issue. Hopefully someone recognizes it and responds, or you otherwise arrive at a solution. Take care.
I hear you man! Climb smart if you want to enjoy the sport for as long as possible. I like practicing new techniques I learn, from watching IFSC, on V0 boulders to build up the correct muscles, then try them on higher V levels after a few weeks.
Cheers Eric. We are roughly the same age give or take a few years and total years climbing. Maintenance, recovery, rest, and smarts are all key as there are no magic solutions to "gains" at this stage of the game. Feel blessed to still be in love w/ the process and hitting goals.
Great. I have started climbing self-training based on Eric's book. That allowed me great progress about 20 years ago. Eric, have you already considered to write a book for somehow older climbing adicted guys? Cheers
Helpful to hear. Thanks.
0:42 His biceps!
My guy coach Horst! Bout time ❤
I feel this interview said: Eric is well conditioned and trained - therefore at his age he focuses on maintenance as new peaks are not possible. This leaves me wondering if the same is true for a recreational climber. Would love to know @LatticeTraining !
I've been thinking about my age in relation to picking up new sports, for example climbing. I am 26 and started when I was 25, so only about a year under my belt. I wonder if that is too late to really get good at it. I don't mean competition level good, but just really good. I've managed to do a 6c last week for the first time, but I wonder how progress will continue for the next year. Anyway, I will enjoy it either way.
Did I hear correctly, 5 secs on 20mm edge for 5 seconds ? ; seems low for Eric
This is with a one arm hang. One arm hangs on the Lattice edge it is quite an elite level of strength. Much harder than a beastmaker 20mm edge because it has a large rounded radius.
What might the possibilites be from someone beginning a climbing journey in their 40's??
great vid i had how to climb 5.12 a loooong time ago
Seems that there is an imbalance in the performance of arm strength over time and finger strength over time. In this case, Eric could struggle for a bodyweight hang or do a 1 arm pullup. I wonder if you can explain anything about why the fingers age worse/ what to do to prevent it?!
This is a one arm hang on the Lattice Edge. Doing this needs an elite level of strength. The one arm pull up is much more common and easier to achieve than hanging the Lattice 20mm edge with one arm. I'd say Eric's finger strength is holding up very well indeed!
How many tricks Eric Horst shares out of his bag? I call him climbing spin master profiting from his bags of tricks and wisdom because he knows most people just are not diligent enough. Climbing improvement game is like beauty peagent contest. ....
This is a bit BS. When it comes to training strength, lattice Says we should do measurable exercises, things that you can overload. Then we get technique and mental. We hear that those are important. But how do you even measure improvement there?
This "hips to the wall static push with your feat" kind of advice doesn't even apply in some situations. Maybe positions that are easy for one person, are impossible for another. I think the climbing community kind of assumes that everyone is 1,7m with 68kg to carry and relatively good flexibility and genetics. Most people aren't. If you want to give out technique advice, define what that even is first then how to apply it. When it comes to the mental stuff, the only science based UA-cam channel is Climbing Psych with about 2k subscribers. The rest are junk.
Now, that being said, is it any wonder that climbers focus on getting stronger? It's the only thing that you can see yourself progressing in. /Rant