Simple tips to climb HARDER outside | Training for climbing
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- Опубліковано 20 лип 2024
- Do you want to climb harder outside? Do you train for climbing indoors but want to learn to climb better on rock? Is Outdoor climbing harder than indoor climbing for you? Don’t worry, because this is normal! Even the very best climbers in the world struggle to transfer bouldering or sport climbing indoors to climbing on real rock. Fingerboard training for rock climbing doesn’t always translate, and even being able to do a one finger one arm pull up like Magnus Midtbo doesn’t mean you’ll be able to climb hard on real rock.
Robbie Phillips is pro climber, climbing coach and UA-camr from Scotland. Follow him on ridiculous climbing adventures, from van life and travelling to wild places like Yosemite and Patagonia, to indoor climbing training in the climbing gym. All craic, no crap - it’s just pure unadulterated climbing!
Intro: 00:00
It's all in the feet!: 02:10
The SECRET of Handholds: 05:13
Build a Pyramid: 08:22
Make the climb EASY: 11:37
Don't be FOOLED by Gyms: 14:42 - Спорт
If you don't see a foothold, place your foot where you'd want a foothold
V6 & 5.12B climber in the gym, V2+ & 5.10 climber outside, absolutely need this advice
The feet on rock topic could make a complete video on it’s own. So difficult to transition from indoor plastic feet to outdoor ‘where do I put my feet’ rock.
Oh yeah completely! One for the future 🤖
Looking forward for it ;)
Robbie laughing as he tried to convince us he has really week fingers.
Haha what must I do to convince you people 🤣
Brilliant advice Robbie! I remember getting spanked when I started climbing outside and thinking WTF? Now, I feel like I climb better outside than in!
same ;) after only climbing outside for two years now I had not a chance on quite easy coordination dynos...
Haha it goes both ways doesn’t it. When I go indoors these days I get totally owned by the local kids 🤣 I often think they must be like “who invited this punter along?” - but yeah I remember when after a couple of years sport climbing outdoors I could climb waaaay harder on rock than indoors. That’s still the same now
Thumb presses/pinch's are so satisfying
Top tip when indoors, any climb I do I dont look at the route and try to onsight it, so that I force myself to try and have look for holds and be suprised by a crux that I might have seen from the bottom, this is to try and make myself think on the go and intuatively as much as possible on an indoor climb, I also do the same with boulder problems.
That’s actually exactly what I do as well haha especially on routes indoors :) good tip man!
Just stumbled across this now. I used to be a V3-4 outside climber then took a 8 year break, and I'm starting all over again. I'm consistently climbing V4-5 in the gym right now, but I'm getting shutdown outside on V1s&2s. Thanks for this advice. I have high hopes for this summer season :)
Now I can show my friends this when they ask why I never climb fast or practice Dynos. Much love from Texas.
❤️ thanks man! 🏴
Pace is actually essential when climbing on hard outdoor pitches.
This is such a great video! Thank you for all of the larger and finer points!
Honestly some of the greatest and most genuine advice.
Great video! I would push back against the idea that the blobby holds are not found outside. It depends on the type of rock They work great in training for the grippy sandstone slopers found near me
Really enjoyed dyno stuff at the start but gravitate more towards slower slab and traditional stuff now.💪🏻🧗🏻♂️🏴 another nice wee upload 👌🏻
Thanks dude
This is great advice! Thanks Robbie!
Excellent video on this topic, best ive seen, so many good tips, changing the thumb angle to maximise surface contact is something I discovered myself, works great on slopers
Thanks SO much for making this vid! So many great nuggets of wisdom here man. The concept of hangin on the thumbs to rest the fingers is a mind blower. Love the channel Robbie keep it up! Cheers from California 😎
Haha yeah thumbs do make a huge difference :) glad you enjoyed the vid man
Yay I needed this!! Thank you
Robbie i liked that video very much, it's fun when someone who is actually know what he is talking about gives truly good tips. Well done!! and it is always funny as well :)
Great advice, from start to finish. Much appreciated!
Thanks man
Top tips and incredible scenery
Excellent video !
Precise and efficient, probably like your climbing 🙂
Great tips, cheers!
Good video sir, appreciate the advice.
Very useful, will be making this transition again very soon
Very useful video, thank you for making it! I laughed out loud when you said your fingers are weak. 😆
Good video! i have climbed 8a outdoors and bearly 7b indoors. I agree on your tips!
Thanks man. 7b indoors is hard haha 😂 I’ve climbed 8c+ outdoors and currently have an 8a project at the gym 🤣
I learned, thank you
This video was very helpful! It also assured me that it’s normal to suck at outdoor climbing at first. I also can do 7b indoor but couldn’t do a single 6a+ outdoor.
Something I found super weird on my first climbing trip was that all the people I was with were not able to do 90% of the routes that they were trying to do. So I ask them "why do you keep trying to do these routes that are obviously too hard" and they answer "well climbing outdoors is just harder" and I'm like "okay so just drop the grade until it's the same?!?" and they like "uh... but that's embarrassing?" So yea it was just pure ego. Indoor routes are clearly just rated higher than they should be. At least for people who mostly climb indoor. So if you want to climb outdoors and actually send stuff, just realise that grades are just numbers, put down your ego, and drop the grade. duh. Easy. So no you don't suck it's just numbers under roof is not = numbers under sky.
Pre-pandemic I had great footwork, especially on rocks, bo now (1,5 year later) when I again started to climb indoors I feel like I lost all of my technique. Your advice to increase amount of foot movements compared to hands gives me some hope! I'm going to implement it in my gym training, thanks!
Good luck man. I find the technique comes back quickly, you just gotta be really deliberate in your approach. Try and challenge yourself lots and experiment with different types of moves. I’m the same though, coming back to climbing after lockdown I was climbing like a sack of potatoes with wooden sticks for legs and clogs for feet…
@@RobbiePhillips I'm not going to be hard on myself then, if even The Great Robbie Phillips lost his mojo due to lockdown haha cheers!
Indoor walls used to be better set for climbing outside. Setting has moved on from just emulating outside climbing to setting "nice" climbs. Also there is a difference between setting something good to train on and something that makes a good climbing experience. Sometimes the set a the local gym has so many climbs that end in a desperate do or die drive by last move that you know you never want to climb again. The risk of fucking it up and decking if using it to do repeats is too high to justify in training on it. Skin conditioning indoors for climbing outdoors is a dark art that should be discussed more.
Brilliant!
Used to go to a old school climbing gym, with walls full of holds and routes and boulders with just the shitiest foot holds on earth if any, when I went outdoors the grades I could climb were similar to indoors. Now with a year without climbing I just visited a modern gym and I could climb same or higher grades as before, it just felt to artificial.
you don't have weak fingers comeeee, I do haha.. very nice video man, i found your advices very useful an accurate.. There is one point that I'd also add from this and it is motivation.. At outdoors my motivation to climb is much lower.. I go outdoor like in chillout mode I like to enojoy the nature and yeah chilldout basically.. It's not wrong because I'm enjoying I think.. but I'd like to level up my game.. At the indoors gyms you can feel that hype of everyone trying the same boulder or route for example, ppl that you don't even know.. it's a think that's what I always miss at outdoors even with my crew in there. Maybe I have to visit more popular places or yeah change that mindset like you said.. I guess that indoors there is also the factor "showing off" in place.. I'm working on this and also in your points as well.. thanks for the advices mate
Rock climbing and indoor climbing Periodt.
You'll have to do a Vid for outdoor trad climbing -- much more complex than outdoor sport climbing but many of the points made are relevant
Yeah lots to do! Bold vs well protected, crack vs face. Outdoor sport defo helps with the trad though, massively!
@@RobbiePhillips TRAD CLIMBING :Develop silent feet:Climb watching your feet and not your hands:become a protection expert:become a resting expert: slow and controlled:practise down climbing: fighting to place runners on the lead is part of the game. I love your bit on feeling the holds properly Robbie. Keep up the great videos and visit Craig's blog\website for an insight into the challenges of the full time worker athlete with a total Trad bias. Sorry don't know how to link it ! Cheers Rob
@@robmatheson1 Hey Rob, ahhhh your Craigs dad! Yeah I follow Craig on Instagram - i haven't seen his website but will check it out. Inspiring scenes coming from him in the Lakes! Quite psyched to check out some of his routes actually, was down earlier in summer and had some of his routes planned but we had to leave early due to some unforseen circumstances. But anyway, yeah thanks for the note and glad you enjoy the vids :) Loads more to come! Best wishes from Scotland!
I started climbing outdoors and was doing 10a’s maybe and when I went indoors for the winter I was flashing 11c+ and I just thought I got really good😂
im so the opposite. im totally dog shit indoors. get shut down on the grade id warm up on outside. I find the freedom to chose holds makes outside much "easier". I really struggle with the prescribed holds you have on indoor routes.
Yeah man I’m the same. I do find however that when I climb more indoors i learn the technique and I’m able to climb harder. In fact, I find the problem solving abilities from outdoors are really useful indoors if you can nail the indoor style..: maybe I should do a video on how to climb harder indoors for us who find it so hard 😂
Complimentary to slowing down when you climb indoors is to climb fast when you are outside!
Couldn’t agree more. I actually move quite fast outdoors, but indoors I still move faster 🚀
Totally agree. There's a video on the Lattice channel (called "from 7a to 8a") in which Tom Randall explains that point really well :)
Its almost like the handholds and footholds are invisible to me, I either cant find footholds and burn my arms out pulling too hard or find decent footholds and cant find anything for my hands. I think starting on limestone hasn't helped me, when your mate slaps you on that ultra polished "easy" 5+ and says "trust your feet". Separate to this I would be interested in a vid on your thoughts for younger climbers and starting to lead outdoors and outdoor in general for the smaller climber. Do I whack my 8 year old on something harder on the basis the whip is safer?
Thanks Robbie. We certainly try to replicate outside climbs in our bouldering gym in Maidstone as much as possible. Come and check us out sometime. We'd love to welcome you :)
what a backdrop for a video :o
I know right!? I knew I had to do it somewhere epic :)
The intro sounds like those dodgy UA-cam ads, 'are you poor? You want lots of money like me? Want an easy way to do this? A way that has helped hundreds before you? Well you are in luck I am going to share with you the secret!' 😂
That was exactly what I was going for :D
When's the podcast coming
Long neck Ondra can make the climb easier
Would climbing on one type of rock- for example limestone, help climbing on another type of rock like granite?
In my experience, different rock types have different skills needed. It also depends on where the area is located. Sandstone in the SE US climbs different than sandstone out in the desert. Best to get on as many types as you can!
Yeah I agree with Seth, just doing as many different styles and trying different rock types will help loads. Also things like crack climbing skills, many sport climbers and boulderers don’t think it translates, but it totally does! Even basic crack climbing skills have helped me loads in getting tests.
Hi Robbie, do you think it happens the same viceversa? I mean, I hardly climb indoors so, when I go to the gym, I feel weak, lack body tension and have to adapt to the highstep pattern of movement
absolutely! When I climb a lot outdoors, when I go back to indoors I am sooooooooo weak! I’m actually in that stage right now in fact. Indoor climbing and outdoor are far enough removed in their physical and technical styles that performing at the high end in both simultaneously is very difficult. Personally I’ve found bouldering the easiest to do this in, because although very technical, power and strength goes the furthest. After this, sport climbing - I know for me, there is a sweet spot usually after a good training cycle when I’ve been climbing outside regularly for probably a few weeks where I will have the best of both worlds ie feel strong/fit and be climbing well on rock. Perhaps if I lived somewhere with amazing gyms and crags on my doorstep that would be different? But that’s never been the case for me so I’ve never had a chance to try it. But bottom line, yeah, indoors requires more power, more strength, more body tension, and a tailored style of movement that favours the physical elements of your technique rather than the subtlety that rock encourages.
For me it's kind of the opposite, as I live in València with good weather all year round and plenty of nice endurancy tufa crags close to home, I really have to force myself to go indoors, so when I do it it's more just for fun than for training... I should train a bit more, I know ;)
Haha nice one! Ive climbed in chulilla which is super cool! Tbh if I lived there I would struggle to train indoors too 😂 but more than likely if you’re a sport climber, boukdering on a board would really help!
Yeah, definitely it would help, ok, I'm gonna do it... well, maybe this winter hahaha
Btw, I used your "more feet moves between each hand move" tip a few hours ago on a bouldery 7c sport route and it worked, so big thanks for that one!! :)
Woop!!! Glad that helped man 🙂 All these little tricks I’ve learned over the years, would be shame not to share them
Did he say 15 or 50
And what if I want to be good outdoor and indoor?
Learn both 😄👍 They’re just different styles. In a way you could just see indoors as a different rock type
Everything's a foothold if you're brave enough.
AI Cullen is top notch
Was it a good liking?
am i the only one who is way better outdoors than indoors?
i don't know why but i get more scared indoors
🖕🤏👋 got it.