@@kristapsp3497 Oh damn! That's wild. Interesting segue, if you want to hear Ollie's take on training Olympic level athletes watch the highlights from our podcast (ua-cam.com/video/dLCX-ZDZq8M/v-deo.htmlsi=XEFPjcEqGh80QFdS) He's not worked with Toby for the last year but has been supporting Erin McNeice.
Very useful content. A sneak peek at Lattice program. I would love to see a model for a sport climber who projects around 8a. Would be interesting to compare the plans for a short, overhang and bouldery 8a vs a long, vertical and pumpy 8a. Thank you!
Would love to see a plan for an intermediate climber (v4-v6?) What kind of training youd prioritise for them and what the training load should look like
Loved the video! It would´ve been really interesting to see a similar video for a climber trying to break into around 8a+ - 8b in sports climbing with a special focus on endurance. Hard to balance between the strength and endurance aspect, especially over the winter in a training period @LatticeTraining
I'm on week 8 of a 12 week plan with lattice and I got my goal earlier today! V4/5 boulderer trying to break v6. My plan focused on power endurance and upper body strength. Id recommend it personally.
Would love to see you go through a training plan for a female climber (maybe v4-v6 range) and also insight into how you incorporate specific considerations e.g. menstrual cycle etc.
This is so cool for a bunch of different reasons. First, it's cool to see the internal tooling Lattice is building, and how you've designed around some of the complexity with training plan building while still keeping things manageable and easy enough to use. Second, the amount of experience needed from the coach to really build an effective and tailored plan. I've built a lot of my own training plans in the gym and some for climbing, so it's cool to see how much information you're taking into account in terms of client preference, specificity, and fatigue management.
Awesome video, thanks! So much good detail and well explained. Training for multipitching/alpine would be amazing, there's not much content for that! Sportclimbing would be great too
Thanks! A lot of the principles here will work for a V8 climber too. It's the finer details that will change like overall training volume and individual goals.
great video ollie! interesting to see how much finesse goes into creating a training plan. would love to volunteer, climbed a few 7c+s, about to train for 8a sport climb, got everything assessed and know my data.
Mega video. I love watching all the work that goes behind scenes to create this fully customized plans. I would personally love to see something towards people with un-structured weeks - I'm personally a freelance worker with VERY different week to week schedules. Mainly all training videos I find are towards people with fairly structure weeks, and not much towards something like maybe I'll have full access to a gym this next week or maybe I'll just be traveling with my travel training equipment only. I just sign up for the performance plan anyways and I'm excited to try this out!
Thanks Roberto! You'll see this soon anyway but all our training plans are "unstructured". In the sense that we don't strictly plan our your weeks (Mon, Tue, Wed....). Rather we plan the training, make it an appropriate volume and you have the freedom to structure each week as it comes. So Monday training this week might be Thursday next week. Best of luck with the training!
@@LatticeTraining I'm starting to see this now as I'm becoming familiar with the app! I'm really happy and excited to progress through it and become more comfortable using all the tools and the structure provided weekly instead of daily. I guess with the videos in the channel. I misunderstood the structure normally being daily tasks and not weekly programs. Thank you Lattice for all the work you guys have done to be where you are. It really helps and motivates newly & every day average climbers keep the psyche high!
I'm curious how you'd modify this process if the client doesn't have a hyper-specific goal (i.e. climb boulder X outside) but rather a more generic goal like: "I suck at Dynos and want to get better", "I'm terrified of slab, help!", or "I've been stuck at v5 and want to get to v6."?
When comparing small and large edge at 1:23, why do we compare added weight, instead of total load? Hypothetically if the added weight on a large edge is a small %-age of BW, we shouldn't expect to hang >BW on a small edge?
I would love to see a plan for someone who climbs 7a (indoor and board) who want to get to 7b/b+ (that person is basically me). Great video, keep them coming!!!
Місяць тому
Thanks for the great video. I would appreciate if you could make a similar Video for an intermediate Climber around V7 and additionally explain how you would work in other Sports like Running if the Person enjoys going on a Run a few times a week.
Would love to see you do a program for someone like me, who is 100kg and wants to work on endurance/stamina, as well as increasing eccentric strength. The only injuries I've had in the past are a partially torn supraspinatus from bouldering, and torn knee cartilage from approaches with a heavy pack on. I am currently TRing 5.11, leading 5.9 outside and boulder v1 outside. I can currently hang for 10 seconds off a 20mm edge with both hands. Cheers & love your content 😊
I love these approaches to training, I love a good well rounded programme. I’m trying to move from v6 into v7 at the moment and I have started my own training for it. But compared to your approach it’s looking far more hap hazard. I’d love to get your take on the dreaded v6 plateau
Ok, here's a scenario for you. History: Age 41, climbing outdoors since age 25 across all rock disciplines. After a couple year hiatus from climbing, I started actually training for the first time about 10 months ago. Current status: No regular partners so I'm mostly bouldering, hangboarding, campus boarding, and weight training, all indoors. I train 5-6 days a week at the gym (mostly cross-training). I climb at the V6 gym level, so maybe V4 outdoors?? Hard to say. Goals: Long-term goals are multi-pitch trad climbs, e.g. the Rostrum. BUT owing to caretaking duties I expect I won't really get to climb outdoors for the next year+. So in the meantime I'm trying to level up my bouldering in the gym. Training nuances: To perform at my top level in limit bouldering, campusing, or even hangboarding seems to require a ton of rest -- like 3-4 days before a hard session. This makes it a challenge to fit in hard sessions combined with getting a reasonable volume/workload.
Thanks olí, appreciate your efforts, so much detail , how did you came up with this style of structure and planning? I read some of the comments, as many of the climbers here, will like to be consistent on 8a sports outdoors anywhere in the world. Thanks for reading and helping .
Thanks! Glad you like it! The structure and the planning tool has evolved for many year. We were writing plans similar to this in 2015 but using Excel spreadsheets. We've come on a long way! Planning is always custom and individual. I think we'll do a sport climbing video next ;)
What does Combo mean? Is it the days in the week? Like combo-1 is monday combo-2 is wednessay? I thought the climver was aiming for 4 days of training/climbing a week but there are more than 4 combos. When are you supposed to do the fingerboarding feom combo 3 and 4? Thx :)
I'd love to see your approach for a scenario like that: Boulderer, 40-50years old. Has had 2 years break of all sports due to a major depressive episode. Bouldering history around 6C/7A max performance. Has been back on the wall for a bit, strength is building back up a bit, but the struggle is recovery, volume (so basically base endurance, power endurance missing?). It's super important to have a small "success" in each session, that's part of the recovery from the psychlogical issues. I gurss that's a bit special and maybe too "theoretical". But maybe there is someone you coached in a similar situation that could be interesting to cover on that type of format. Cheers on the great contentz you guys keep publishing.
but for example, in session 1 on M2 he will be working several types of energy...it's not something to avoid? I mean, if the session is about to power endurance or strenght just do a session of power endurance or strenght, without mixing? I may understood it wrong...
Really cool video. I just wish you went into just a tad more depth on some of these things. For example, for a climbing session you have Ben do on the Moon Board, whether it's moderate benchmarks or projects or body tension or whatever, what kind of volume is it? Is it timed, like climb for an hour, or more subjective, like climb until you're tired? Similarly, with the hangboard, how do you tell if you're doing too much or not enough volume? On the half crimp for example, the time goes down and weight goes up throughout the plan, are the reps and stuff staying the same? Maybe I'm just asking for too much, but I still found it really helpful, so thanks Ollie.
Glad you like the video! I think it's a little too much detail to get into one video. Our Performance Plans come with 1-2-1 coach support online and our athletes have access to all the session details via the App. That's where all the finer details are communicated.
Can one find the whole database for the 10mm Hand online for free? Personally I am exactly in the V9 range, so I will try right tomorrow if I can hang 130%BW! Thanks for the video!
How old is Ben? Also, this is awesome! I'm 36 and can only climb 3 times per week to stay feeling healthy and good. I usually do a 3 hour session with some structured training, but need some help pushing to the next step.
Thanks! If you are self coached, often simple can be great. Best thing is to stay consistent with what you have, for say 8-12 weeks. Then re-evaluate at the end what worked well, and not so well. Also what you enjoyed! Don't fall into the trap of modifying your plan too often.
@@LatticeTraining Thanks for the answer. I'm self coached, and I like training process like Aidan. I'm stay consistent, but after one year maybe I should changed little bit my plan. Actually Ben situation is kind of similar to mine - strong upper body, strong fingers on 20mm edge (for 7b grade), strong shoulders, but on the other hand I'm not flexibile in box split, frog stretch, and pigeon pose. I implemented mobility training during warm up and I also train mobility separately with dumbel bells, however I'm concern that mobility trainig won't help, becasue I'm already 35 years old, so my muscle and tendors are stif rather than flexible. On top of that I climb outdoors in Bor (Czech Republic crags) where holds are small, so I probably add training on 10mm edge as well Can you tell me what is different between Shoulder rotation - Prone - Strength and Shoulder rotation - External - Strength (the one which Aidan trains) ?
Would you do the fingerboarding on the same day as the bouldering sessions as an extended warm up? or on different days, i personally would go for same day but this than seems quite a lot (even more than before)
Same day is great but some caveats with this. For example; always leave the fingerboarding fresh, reduce the number of sets if needed, be mindful about the type of climbing afterwards.
Thank you so much. Great video. Very helpful. Just a quick question, what is this software? Can we buy it somewhere? I’m using Crimpd for now but I feel a lot of limitations.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it 😁. This is internal software, it's been built bespoke for our coaching. It's not public but it's possible we'll make something simialr available in the future. It depends if the demand is there because it takes a lot of work and maintenance.
@@LatticeTraining thanks for the reply. Yes I understand, heading a startup that sells a soft lol. I am sure the demand is here as there is nothing out there that really fits the needs. But for sure the marketing will be the key of success. Hopefully it will come, in any case I’ll be your first customer 😁
Hi, the critical force numbers shown at 1:57 doesn't seem to match the ones shown in your previous video with Stefano ua-cam.com/video/eopeSRfhrMQ/v-deo.htmlsi=Mdy6J0jeCvDRjZtv&t=858 Here the mean for 8a is 56% BW, which is actually higher than Will Bosi's or Dave MacLeod's critical force. Stefano had a critical force of 64,5% BW, which is still far from the 78% BW shown has the 8a higher end in this video. Was the critical force test from this video done with 2 hands instead of doing it with one hand like in the previous videos ? If so do you know how we could compare the two of them ? (should we expect something like a 6% bilateral deficit ?)
Most likely for this video it was done with 2 hands which is more appropriate for a climber of ~V9. While for Stefano and Will who are V16+ climber's they can do it with one hand ;)
@@m.wunderlich4942 anyone should be able to do it with one hand and dynanometer such as the tindeq though, having everyone doing it with one hand would make comparaison easier. In any case, precising above the graph if it's done with one or two hands would remove the ambiguity : )
A quick tip would be get on a rope as often as possible. From my experience even when strong boulderers put a lot of effort into endurance training and maintain their strength effectively, they can really struggle on a sport climbing trip. This is because the neglect things like fall practice, relaxing/resting, clipping, pacing, breathing etc. If you still "climb like a boulderer" you'll get pumped quickly despite your endurance training.
Either review what the training plan has not been doing for you i.e. any missed opportunities. Or look outwardly from the plan, like skills, tactics and mindset.
Did some testing after watching this video as a max 7B boulderer with 2.5 years of experience at 72kg bodyweight: max 2 arm 7 seconds 20mm: 55kg+bw = 127kg/bw = 176% max 2 arm 7 seconds 10mm: 25kg+bw = 97kg/bw = 134% max 2 arm pullup x2(on a bar): 45+bw = 117kg/bw = 162% max 2 arm chinup x2(on a bar): 40+bw = 112kg/bw = 155% box split : 173cm/180cm = 96% not sure how to test critical force with no tools but it is terrible, as i tried 4x4 6b+ and started failing on set 3 fyi 7B is also the gym limit, well there are the occasional 7C's/8a's which i usually am not even able to start haha. tldr; i need to train power endurance, thx :)
Depends in you're goal (s) and whether "power endurance" actually is a glaring weakness. Your method of assessing that seems sub-optimal at best. Also, there are different facets to power endurance" . Seems like your pretty "strong", but how about mobility, technique and tactics? You assessed only box split which is one, but by far not the only Mobility/metric.
@@m.wunderlich4942 i agree with it being sub-optimal, i know mobility is still a big weakness for me, hamstring/hip flexibility is bad even compared to some 6c/7a climbers i know. so i took the frogger-stretch, pancake-stretch and hipflexor training into my schedule. technique is rather poor aswell, probably because i started out rather strong and am usually able to compensate for my lack of technique. I notice the lack of technique a lot on the off times i do go toproping since i tend to burn al my strenght in the first 12 to 20 moves. (maby its a combination of efficiency and power endurance) the best way to train this for me is to climb while tired as this forces me to climb more efficiently, same goes for 4x4's Tactics on the other hand seems ok, as i do like to find the 'cheats' on boulder problems in order to leverage my personal strenghts.
@@m.wunderlich4942 agreed with the sub-optimal part. mobility seems quite weak for me, especially in te pancake(this being the worst)/frogger stretch which ive been training for a while now, along with hipflexor training. technique is relatively poor, probably because i was strong from the getgo and able to just cheat that way, tho tactics benefit from it as i do see more options usually, albeit not the most efficient. i've implemented stretches and am persuing a power endurance session one a week. i wil also try experimenting with a deload week, but my excel sheet (i might be addicted haha) tells me my best days are with about 4-5 restdays In the past i used to do a (dropset) session a week where me and a few friends tried all the boulders in our gym sub 6B(ca. 150) and by the end of it my technique was definitely better! also i've never had such insane muscle aches in my obliques in my life than i had from the first dropset session. The goal btw is an 8a boulder within a year or 5 (seems doable if it matches my style)
@@m.wunderlich4942 i responded twice before, both times it got deleted apparently, anyhow in short i agree with the sub-optimal part and I am working on my weaknesses
calling it right now that that training plan is not going to be kept. either they simplify the finger training exercises and lessen the intensity of the entire plan or Ben gonna get a finger injury. Ben doesn't seem like your regular run of the mill lattice comp kid so that kind of plan aint gonna hold up. Feels pretty out of touch and overcomplicated. training plan doesn't need to be that complex and shouldn't be especially for a regular working nonprofessional climber dad. also where's the results? this was a training plan that ends in july, no additional info regarding the success of this training plan also makes it more sus.
I can't agree, if he stays consistent and write down plan for each week he would manage volume. I checked in excel. I downloaded data to excel sheet than I grouped by day of week. He would had to train four times a week.
@@sewerynkaczmarczyk6113 limit moonboarding and fingerboarding? those two shouldn't go together. from experience, that's a recipe for multiple finger injuries. as someone who's 34 and primarily trains on moonboarding, rather than splitting the volume between moonboarding and fingerboarding it's so much better to simply do moonboarding only as it will give you finger strength that transfers directly to climbing. by doing both I injured both left and right ring and middle finger. it's a different story if it's fingerboarding for warmup but the training plan here is a seperate block of finger strength training fingerboarding sessions. The plan here is excessive, complicated, injury prone. The client is also a middle aged working dad and not a professional rock climber. This training plan is not suited for such a client. also still waiting on success story for the client. can't just give out a plan and simply expect us to take it as face value without results.
@@MrWhatev4r I don't also train on the same day Max finger strength and moonboard. Group by excercise for first week: Tuseday: Max Finger strength on 20mm, board session on kilterboard, and 1 ON 1 OFF Wednesday: MS RPE - 2 Arm (5 sec) - Half 3 (Optional, because I don't have issue with Half 3 back and front), 6in6 and strength and conditioning (up to 5 excercise) Friday: MS RPE (15 sec) - 2 Arm or Max Finger Strength - 80% which is adaptation, MoonBoard Benchmarks, one excercise (Optional) and maybe mobility Sunday: Outdoor climbing or if condtion are bad then Bouldering limits + one excercise if I don't do it on Friday As you can see it doesn't looks as bad I'm courius about result as well. Especially test result
@@sewerynkaczmarczyk6113this is all good for someone that wants to spend 4 days of training but the client in video where the plan is being implemented for doesn't necessary have the same time available. Also keep in mind the body strength exercises the client is also doing. Also splitting the finger strength training could work but again for someone who's in their mid 30, this will put additional fatigue throughout the entire week and following such protocol for 3 weeks before a deload phase will most likely lead to finger tweaks and weaker climbing sessions for an older working dad. It's better to implement finger strength/body strength program into their warmups maybe one or two time a week while having each training sessions focused more on low volume but high intensity, intentional climbing, specific to either a combination or solo strength/footwork/power/technique/endurance. building finger strength through climbing is so much better and more directly translated to outdoor climbing. I'm not saying complete cut off strength training, but it should always take a back seat to climbing if climbing is your goal. The plan in the video is too training heavy.
16 days on 2 days off limit boulder everydya
I know some great climbing physiotherapists. Just give me a shout if you want their contacts 😉
No that's Toby's plan hahah. I laughed so hard
And even Toby got burned out :)
Haha, the correct answer would be: I know some good climbing psychotherapists.
@@kristapsp3497 Oh damn! That's wild. Interesting segue, if you want to hear Ollie's take on training Olympic level athletes watch the highlights from our podcast (ua-cam.com/video/dLCX-ZDZq8M/v-deo.htmlsi=XEFPjcEqGh80QFdS)
He's not worked with Toby for the last year but has been supporting Erin McNeice.
Love these videos! Please do v4/v5 breaking into v6 :-)
fully respect a coach with a customised cursor, shows someone who's put in the hours on the plan builder
Very useful content. A sneak peek at Lattice program. I would love to see a model for a sport climber who projects around 8a. Would be interesting to compare the plans for a short, overhang and bouldery 8a vs a long, vertical and pumpy 8a. Thank you!
Thanks! And a few votes for sport climbing now. I'll make this suggestion to Ollie :)
Would love to see a plan for an intermediate climber (v4-v6?) What kind of training youd prioritise for them and what the training load should look like
Loved the video! It would´ve been really interesting to see a similar video for a climber trying to break into around 8a+ - 8b in sports climbing with a special focus on endurance. Hard to balance between the strength and endurance aspect, especially over the winter in a training period @LatticeTraining
I'm building an amalgamation of requests in the comments. The next one will have some of these feature so will be helpful for you :)
@@LatticeTraining Awesome! Looking forward to it
I'm on week 8 of a 12 week plan with lattice and I got my goal earlier today!
V4/5 boulderer trying to break v6. My plan focused on power endurance and upper body strength.
Id recommend it personally.
Amazing work! Well done on success with your goal! And thanks for the recommendation 😁
I love this kind of video. It's really nice to see this systematic approach to building a program.
Would love to see you go through a training plan for a female climber (maybe v4-v6 range) and also insight into how you incorporate specific considerations e.g. menstrual cycle etc.
This is so cool for a bunch of different reasons. First, it's cool to see the internal tooling Lattice is building, and how you've designed around some of the complexity with training plan building while still keeping things manageable and easy enough to use.
Second, the amount of experience needed from the coach to really build an effective and tailored plan. I've built a lot of my own training plans in the gym and some for climbing, so it's cool to see how much information you're taking into account in terms of client preference, specificity, and fatigue management.
Awesome video, thanks! So much good detail and well explained. Training for multipitching/alpine would be amazing, there's not much content for that! Sportclimbing would be great too
Very nice, yeah a similar video for sport climb will be too much appreciate, exemple for someone who climb 7a and want to progress...
Very good video! really appreciate that. Are you mb looking into doing something similar for sport climbing?
If this goes down well, we're definitely keen to do another! But I think I'll ask our UA-cam community for a volunteer to get a training plan :)
@@LatticeTraining I certanly wouldn’t mind being a volunteer for this one ;)
@@LatticeTraining👀🤓
☝️ volunteering
As there is a bet in my friend group, who will send the first 8a, I definitely need you support!!@@LatticeTraining
wow, the level of customization of the training is quite impressive. Nice job
This was one of the most informative videos I’ve seen for training planning. Would be nice to see something for a v8 climber, trying to break into V9.
Thanks! A lot of the principles here will work for a V8 climber too. It's the finer details that will change like overall training volume and individual goals.
great video ollie! interesting to see how much finesse goes into creating a training plan.
would love to volunteer, climbed a few 7c+s, about to train for 8a sport climb, got everything assessed and know my data.
Thanks, that another vote for 8a sport haha. I'll put this to Ollie later :)
Awesome video! Great to get such an insight into building a training program
Mega video. I love watching all the work that goes behind scenes to create this fully customized plans.
I would personally love to see something towards people with un-structured weeks - I'm personally a freelance worker with VERY different week to week schedules.
Mainly all training videos I find are towards people with fairly structure weeks, and not much towards something like maybe I'll have full access to a gym this next week or maybe I'll just be traveling with my travel training equipment only.
I just sign up for the performance plan anyways and I'm excited to try this out!
Thanks Roberto! You'll see this soon anyway but all our training plans are "unstructured". In the sense that we don't strictly plan our your weeks (Mon, Tue, Wed....). Rather we plan the training, make it an appropriate volume and you have the freedom to structure each week as it comes. So Monday training this week might be Thursday next week.
Best of luck with the training!
@@LatticeTraining I'm starting to see this now as I'm becoming familiar with the app! I'm really happy and excited to progress through it and become more comfortable using all the tools and the structure provided weekly instead of daily.
I guess with the videos in the channel. I misunderstood the structure normally being daily tasks and not weekly programs.
Thank you Lattice for all the work you guys have done to be where you are. It really helps and motivates newly & every day average climbers keep the psyche high!
Great video guys! Thanks. I'm also voting for 7b/c -> 8a program!
I'm so lucky! I was just looking at the how to write a training plan vid before seeing this in my sub feed.
I'm curious how you'd modify this process if the client doesn't have a hyper-specific goal (i.e. climb boulder X outside) but rather a more generic goal like: "I suck at Dynos and want to get better", "I'm terrified of slab, help!", or "I've been stuck at v5 and want to get to v6."?
When comparing small and large edge at 1:23, why do we compare added weight, instead of total load? Hypothetically if the added weight on a large edge is a small %-age of BW, we shouldn't expect to hang >BW on a small edge?
I would love to see a plan for someone who climbs 7a (indoor and board) who want to get to 7b/b+ (that person is basically me). Great video, keep them coming!!!
Thanks for the great video. I would appreciate if you could make a similar Video for an intermediate Climber around V7 and additionally explain how you would work in other Sports like Running if the Person enjoys going on a Run a few times a week.
Would love to see you do a program for someone like me, who is 100kg and wants to work on endurance/stamina, as well as increasing eccentric strength. The only injuries I've had in the past are a partially torn supraspinatus from bouldering, and torn knee cartilage from approaches with a heavy pack on. I am currently TRing 5.11, leading 5.9 outside and boulder v1 outside. I can currently hang for 10 seconds off a 20mm edge with both hands. Cheers & love your content 😊
I really liked the video. Would be great to have a similar one for sportclimbing.
would love these for a rope focused climber!
I love these approaches to training, I love a good well rounded programme. I’m trying to move from v6 into v7 at the moment and I have started my own training for it. But compared to your approach it’s looking far more hap hazard. I’d love to get your take on the dreaded v6 plateau
Ok, here's a scenario for you.
History: Age 41, climbing outdoors since age 25 across all rock disciplines. After a couple year hiatus from climbing, I started actually training for the first time about 10 months ago.
Current status: No regular partners so I'm mostly bouldering, hangboarding, campus boarding, and weight training, all indoors. I train 5-6 days a week at the gym (mostly cross-training). I climb at the V6 gym level, so maybe V4 outdoors?? Hard to say.
Goals: Long-term goals are multi-pitch trad climbs, e.g. the Rostrum. BUT owing to caretaking duties I expect I won't really get to climb outdoors for the next year+. So in the meantime I'm trying to level up my bouldering in the gym.
Training nuances: To perform at my top level in limit bouldering, campusing, or even hangboarding seems to require a ton of rest -- like 3-4 days before a hard session. This makes it a challenge to fit in hard sessions combined with getting a reasonable volume/workload.
This is awesome! Can you do a similar video for someone focusing on sport or trad climbing outside?
"I'm gonna watch a load of videos on youtube" - just like the rest of us at our job. :P
Tough day at work for me, I watched like 32 videos on UA-cam.
Thanks olí, appreciate your efforts, so much detail , how did you came up with this style of structure and planning? I read some of the comments, as many of the climbers here, will like to be consistent on 8a sports outdoors anywhere in the world. Thanks for reading and helping .
Thanks! Glad you like it! The structure and the planning tool has evolved for many year. We were writing plans similar to this in 2015 but using Excel spreadsheets. We've come on a long way! Planning is always custom and individual. I think we'll do a sport climbing video next ;)
What does Combo mean? Is it the days in the week? Like combo-1 is monday combo-2 is wednessay? I thought the climver was aiming for 4 days of training/climbing a week but there are more than 4 combos. When are you supposed to do the fingerboarding feom combo 3 and 4? Thx :)
Since this training program was done from April-June, it would be cool to know what were his results!
I'd love to see your approach for a scenario like that:
Boulderer, 40-50years old. Has had 2 years break of all sports due to a major depressive episode. Bouldering history around 6C/7A max performance. Has been back on the wall for a bit, strength is building back up a bit, but the struggle is recovery, volume (so basically base endurance, power endurance missing?). It's super important to have a small "success" in each session, that's part of the recovery from the psychlogical issues.
I gurss that's a bit special and maybe too "theoretical". But maybe there is someone you coached in a similar situation that could be interesting to cover on that type of format.
Cheers on the great contentz you guys keep publishing.
Great video as usual, thanks; Could you show how to distribute this mesocycle plan within a week ?
We plan to make another video like this and will take your feedback onboard. We'll add some details on week planning in the next one :)
but for example, in session 1 on M2 he will be working several types of energy...it's not something to avoid? I mean, if the session is about to power endurance or strenght just do a session of power endurance or strenght, without mixing? I may understood it wrong...
Really cool video. I just wish you went into just a tad more depth on some of these things. For example, for a climbing session you have Ben do on the Moon Board, whether it's moderate benchmarks or projects or body tension or whatever, what kind of volume is it? Is it timed, like climb for an hour, or more subjective, like climb until you're tired? Similarly, with the hangboard, how do you tell if you're doing too much or not enough volume? On the half crimp for example, the time goes down and weight goes up throughout the plan, are the reps and stuff staying the same?
Maybe I'm just asking for too much, but I still found it really helpful, so thanks Ollie.
Glad you like the video! I think it's a little too much detail to get into one video. Our Performance Plans come with 1-2-1 coach support online and our athletes have access to all the session details via the App. That's where all the finer details are communicated.
Can one find the whole database for the 10mm Hand online for free? Personally I am exactly in the V9 range, so I will try right tomorrow if I can hang 130%BW! Thanks for the video!
How old is Ben?
Also, this is awesome! I'm 36 and can only climb 3 times per week to stay feeling healthy and good. I usually do a 3 hour session with some structured training, but need some help pushing to the next step.
If I remember correctly Ben is in his mid-30s
Can I have the full from of TPR BLD weeks? thanks
Taper phase and build phase
I’m a bit confused on how much you should be board climbing each week and how much you should be climbing hard projects in the gym each week
Very good video, but I'm more confused now and mabye I should consider to modify my training plan
Thanks! If you are self coached, often simple can be great. Best thing is to stay consistent with what you have, for say 8-12 weeks. Then re-evaluate at the end what worked well, and not so well. Also what you enjoyed! Don't fall into the trap of modifying your plan too often.
@@LatticeTraining Thanks for the answer. I'm self coached, and I like training process like Aidan. I'm stay consistent, but after one year maybe I should changed little bit my plan.
Actually Ben situation is kind of similar to mine - strong upper body, strong fingers on 20mm edge (for 7b grade), strong shoulders, but on the other hand I'm not flexibile in box split, frog stretch, and pigeon pose. I implemented mobility training during warm up and I also train mobility separately with dumbel bells, however I'm concern that mobility trainig won't help, becasue I'm already 35 years old, so my muscle and tendors are stif rather than flexible.
On top of that I climb outdoors in Bor (Czech Republic crags) where holds are small, so I probably add training on 10mm edge as well
Can you tell me what is different between Shoulder rotation - Prone - Strength and Shoulder rotation - External - Strength (the one which Aidan trains) ?
Would you do the fingerboarding on the same day as the bouldering sessions as an extended warm up? or on different days, i personally would go for same day but this than seems quite a lot (even more than before)
Same day is great but some caveats with this. For example; always leave the fingerboarding fresh, reduce the number of sets if needed, be mindful about the type of climbing afterwards.
Thank you so much. Great video. Very helpful. Just a quick question, what is this software? Can we buy it somewhere? I’m using Crimpd for now but I feel a lot of limitations.
I have been tinkering with sequence app. Lots on customization that might be of interest.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it 😁. This is internal software, it's been built bespoke for our coaching. It's not public but it's possible we'll make something simialr available in the future. It depends if the demand is there because it takes a lot of work and maintenance.
@@LatticeTraining thanks for the reply. Yes I understand, heading a startup that sells a soft lol. I am sure the demand is here as there is nothing out there that really fits the needs. But for sure the marketing will be the key of success.
Hopefully it will come, in any case I’ll be your first customer 😁
Hi,
the critical force numbers shown at 1:57 doesn't seem to match the ones shown in your previous video with Stefano ua-cam.com/video/eopeSRfhrMQ/v-deo.htmlsi=Mdy6J0jeCvDRjZtv&t=858
Here the mean for 8a is 56% BW, which is actually higher than Will Bosi's or Dave MacLeod's critical force. Stefano had a critical force of 64,5% BW, which is still far from the 78% BW shown has the 8a higher end in this video.
Was the critical force test from this video done with 2 hands instead of doing it with one hand like in the previous videos ?
If so do you know how we could compare the two of them ? (should we expect something like a 6% bilateral deficit ?)
Most likely for this video it was done with 2 hands which is more appropriate for a climber of ~V9. While for Stefano and Will who are V16+ climber's they can do it with one hand ;)
@@m.wunderlich4942 anyone should be able to do it with one hand and dynanometer such as the tindeq though, having everyone doing it with one hand would make comparaison easier.
In any case, precising above the graph if it's done with one or two hands would remove the ambiguity : )
Would be super curious to see a plan for a strong boulder with poor endurance preparing for a sport climbing trip 😅
A quick tip would be get on a rope as often as possible. From my experience even when strong boulderers put a lot of effort into endurance training and maintain their strength effectively, they can really struggle on a sport climbing trip. This is because the neglect things like fall practice, relaxing/resting, clipping, pacing, breathing etc. If you still "climb like a boulderer" you'll get pumped quickly despite your endurance training.
any advice for someone that has followed training plans for 2 years yet still hasn’t been able to get over a v8 plateau
Either review what the training plan has not been doing for you i.e. any missed opportunities. Or look outwardly from the plan, like skills, tactics and mindset.
Did some testing after watching this video as a max 7B boulderer with 2.5 years of experience at 72kg bodyweight:
max 2 arm 7 seconds 20mm: 55kg+bw = 127kg/bw = 176%
max 2 arm 7 seconds 10mm: 25kg+bw = 97kg/bw = 134%
max 2 arm pullup x2(on a bar): 45+bw = 117kg/bw = 162%
max 2 arm chinup x2(on a bar): 40+bw = 112kg/bw = 155%
box split : 173cm/180cm = 96%
not sure how to test critical force with no tools but it is terrible, as i tried 4x4 6b+ and started failing on set 3
fyi 7B is also the gym limit, well there are the occasional 7C's/8a's which i usually am not even able to start haha.
tldr; i need to train power endurance, thx :)
Depends in you're goal (s) and whether "power endurance" actually is a glaring weakness. Your method of assessing that seems sub-optimal at best. Also, there are different facets to power endurance" . Seems like your pretty "strong", but how about mobility, technique and tactics? You assessed only box split which is one, but by far not the only Mobility/metric.
@@m.wunderlich4942 i agree with it being sub-optimal, i know mobility is still a big weakness for me, hamstring/hip flexibility is bad even compared to some 6c/7a climbers i know.
so i took the frogger-stretch, pancake-stretch and hipflexor training into my schedule.
technique is rather poor aswell, probably because i started out rather strong and am usually able to compensate for my lack of technique.
I notice the lack of technique a lot on the off times i do go toproping since i tend to burn al my strenght in the first 12 to 20 moves. (maby its a combination of efficiency and power endurance)
the best way to train this for me is to climb while tired as this forces me to climb more efficiently, same goes for 4x4's
Tactics on the other hand seems ok, as i do like to find the 'cheats' on boulder problems in order to leverage my personal strenghts.
@@m.wunderlich4942 agreed with the sub-optimal part. mobility seems quite weak for me, especially in te pancake(this being the worst)/frogger stretch which ive been training for a while now, along with hipflexor training.
technique is relatively poor, probably because i was strong from the getgo and able to just cheat that way, tho tactics benefit from it as i do see more options usually, albeit not the most efficient.
i've implemented stretches and am persuing a power endurance session one a week.
i wil also try experimenting with a deload week, but my excel sheet (i might be addicted haha) tells me my best days are with about 4-5 restdays
In the past i used to do a (dropset) session a week where me and a few friends tried all the boulders in our gym sub 6B(ca. 150) and by the end of it my technique was definitely better!
also i've never had such insane muscle aches in my obliques in my life than i had from the first dropset session.
The goal btw is an 8a boulder within a year or 5 (seems doable if it matches my style)
@@m.wunderlich4942 i responded twice before, both times it got deleted apparently, anyhow in short i agree with the sub-optimal part and I am working on my weaknesses
@@m.wunderlich4942 i tried responding 3x, all of the comments got removed. i give up
Anyone know the boulder at 3:34? Looks great :)
The Hippo, Stanage Plantation. Original video here - ua-cam.com/video/TpZZS56QeyM/v-deo.htmlsi=ufAb8QYMSUUOo1vl
What software is this?
We've custom built this software for our coaches :)
What are the results?
What's the name of the software he is using?
It's lattice own software
What is a 50% success rate for boulders?
Topping approximately 50% of the boulders you try in that session. Helps us guide the intensity to "session level projects" or just above.
@@LatticeTraining got it! Was thinking it might be 50% of attempts. Thanks!
V14 Slab (Looking at you, Magna Strata)
V14 Slab (looking at you Magna Strata)
If anyone uses lattice and wants to refer me as a friend, please let me know.
9:18 “Mom, i’m in a Lattice Video”
please proper chapters :-)
Sorry forgot to add them on this video 😅
A quick click from me!
calling it right now that that training plan is not going to be kept. either they simplify the finger training exercises and lessen the intensity of the entire plan or Ben gonna get a finger injury. Ben doesn't seem like your regular run of the mill lattice comp kid so that kind of plan aint gonna hold up. Feels pretty out of touch and overcomplicated. training plan doesn't need to be that complex and shouldn't be especially for a regular working nonprofessional climber dad. also where's the results? this was a training plan that ends in july, no additional info regarding the success of this training plan also makes it more sus.
Lol. Shut up troll.
I can't agree, if he stays consistent and write down plan for each week he would manage volume. I checked in excel. I downloaded data to excel sheet than I grouped by day of week.
He would had to train four times a week.
@@sewerynkaczmarczyk6113 limit moonboarding and fingerboarding? those two shouldn't go together. from experience, that's a recipe for multiple finger injuries. as someone who's 34 and primarily trains on moonboarding, rather than splitting the volume between moonboarding and fingerboarding it's so much better to simply do moonboarding only as it will give you finger strength that transfers directly to climbing. by doing both I injured both left and right ring and middle finger. it's a different story if it's fingerboarding for warmup but the training plan here is a seperate block of finger strength training fingerboarding sessions. The plan here is excessive, complicated, injury prone. The client is also a middle aged working dad and not a professional rock climber. This training plan is not suited for such a client. also still waiting on success story for the client. can't just give out a plan and simply expect us to take it as face value without results.
@@MrWhatev4r I don't also train on the same day Max finger strength and moonboard.
Group by excercise for first week:
Tuseday: Max Finger strength on 20mm, board session on kilterboard, and 1 ON 1 OFF
Wednesday: MS RPE - 2 Arm (5 sec) - Half 3 (Optional, because I don't have issue with Half 3 back and front), 6in6 and strength and conditioning (up to 5 excercise)
Friday: MS RPE (15 sec) - 2 Arm or Max Finger Strength - 80% which is adaptation, MoonBoard Benchmarks, one excercise (Optional) and maybe mobility
Sunday: Outdoor climbing or if condtion are bad then Bouldering limits + one excercise if I don't do it on Friday
As you can see it doesn't looks as bad
I'm courius about result as well. Especially test result
@@sewerynkaczmarczyk6113this is all good for someone that wants to spend 4 days of training but the client in video where the plan is being implemented for doesn't necessary have the same time available. Also keep in mind the body strength exercises the client is also doing. Also splitting the finger strength training could work but again for someone who's in their mid 30, this will put additional fatigue throughout the entire week and following such protocol for 3 weeks before a deload phase will most likely lead to finger tweaks and weaker climbing sessions for an older working dad. It's better to implement finger strength/body strength program into their warmups maybe one or two time a week while having each training sessions focused more on low volume but high intensity, intentional climbing, specific to either a combination or solo strength/footwork/power/technique/endurance. building finger strength through climbing is so much better and more directly translated to outdoor climbing. I'm not saying complete cut off strength training, but it should always take a back seat to climbing if climbing is your goal. The plan in the video is too training heavy.
I’m a bit confused on how much you should be board climbing each week and how much you should be climbing hard projects in the gym each week