USS Guam 1/350 Hobby Boss: Assembly and Painting of a Large Cruiser
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- Опубліковано 22 лют 2021
- Hi! Thanks for visiting the channel!
In this video, i am building the USS Guam from Hobby Boss in 1/350 scale.
This kit was quite a challenge and sometimes even annoying, but it has tremendous amounts of PE included which makes great detail for this kit out of the box!
The music was taken from:
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For bottles, you need reference photos; some will be oxygen, some acetylene for welding; some will be CO2 for firefighting.
The baskets are "floater net" baskets. The Floater net was a big, criss-cross (apx 30cm) net of (apx 3cm) rope with cork floats (±2cm x 15cm Φ). These were meant to literally float off a sinking ship to provide something for the crew to cling to until a raft or ship's boat could reach them. They were not a success, but, they were Regulation until 1946.
Thanks for the info, very interesting! Why were they not successful? Didn't they provide sufficient support for people in the water?
@@funinscale2892 Yes, little support in the water; very poor performance in fuel oil in the water, extremely susceptible to dry rot and damage in the baskets, too. Also, they often failed to float free during a sinking. All while being a fire danger on deck. Not a win.
The thing that blows my mind is that your superglue just sticks.. I was building a little 1/350 fletcher and I had so many problems with PE pieces, especially the railings, that just didn't stick. I'd get them placed perfectly and then they'd get bumped or nudged and they'd pop off or shift into the wrong position and *then* they would stick. The end result was adequate but watching you just place the pieces and they stick is giving me major envy.
I too would love to know what type of superglue you use and how you apply it to your PE or is that a trade secret? I admire your skill and Steady Hand it's just amazing how you slap that photo etch onto the model and it stays oh wow holding the parts in your hands in midair!
I may be in the minority, but I love the Alaska class. I must do considering the long months accumulating the free xp to get her in World of Warships. You have built a mighty fine looking ship in my eyes. Thank you for sharing.
I think they have lovely lines and good proportions . Wales UK.
Superb job. One minor quibble would be to make sure the 5”/38 barrels are always exactly lined up in each mount. They share a common trunnion so their elevation would be identical. Still, she’s a beauty! BZ! (“Well Done!”)
Thanks very much! and thanks for the info, didn't think about that!
The long baskets (as on the turrets) held free-foating nets for crew survival if ship is lost.
Nice build, I thoroughly enjoyed it. Your skill-sets really did this model justice.👍
Staggering. A most impressive build,detail and paint. Thank you for posting this phenomenal project in such easy to follow steps
Thank you very much for your help.
*Thank you for sharing this great video! 👍👍👍*
You did a beautiful job, I wish my hand was as sready.
Another stunner! Thanks for sharing and showing what can be done...if you have the patience and skill of course!
again a very nice model, i'm looking forward to the next video
Thank you! The next video is almost finished! ( I worked parallel on the guam and the next project) Thanks for being a returning viewer!
Nice build there my friend the weathering looks great very detailed top job 👍🙏
that's one nice lookin' ship nicely done bro
Great work
Awesome build! I’ve been thinking about getting one of these kits and this cinches it for me.
Thanks! i can really recommend this kit for experienced modellers, it has all you need, and more!
I found a neat trick for curving photoetch , especially ships railing that requires straight pieces with a curve in
the middle , I take a pack of Blue tack , with the plastic cover still on , lay it on the bench and moosh the part
into it using a chop stick at correct diameter , I also use drill bits , wooden dowels ect ,
This sounds like a great idea! then the elasticity of the PE parts can be evaded and it bends more reliably, i will try this some time!
@@funinscale2892 I'm a solitary builder / collector , have never shared my techniques
before , nor have I seen them being used by others , I wish to remain solitary would rather
just share them with you , was hoping you could try them and incorporate into your videos , my
only wish is to share them with my fellow modelers
Nice job over all, but I do think you got the colors wrong. The Guam was painted in Measure 22 during her Pacific service. This consisted of the hull being painted Navy Blue (5-N) to the shear line and all vertical surfaces above the shear line were painted haze gray (5-H). All horizontal surfaces were painted or stained Deck Blue (20-B). I built Hobby Boss's 1/350 scale USS Alaska and found it to be challenging, but fun build. I modified the kit with an Artwox teak deck veneer, 3D printed 20mm and 40mm gun mounts, Infini Model's mast detail up set, Infini Model's metal 12 inch gun barrels and some additional photo-etch detail parts from Gold Medal Model's USS North Carolina photo-etched detail set. I thoroughly enjoyed the build and agree that is an excellent kit at a reasonable price point. I spent almost 300 hours of bench time over nine months building this model. I am a fan of the Alaska class large cruisers. By the time Alaska and Guam entered service, the mission for which they were built--hunting down enemy cruisers--no longer existed. They were beautiful and capable ships.
Last Battlecruiser of US Navy
Technically the Alaska class were large cruisers. The USN never operated battlecruisers.
The reason the Alaska's were not battlecruisers.
#1 Their hull was an enlarged Baltimore class cruiser hull. Battlecruisers shared the same hull forms as battleships. While they had thinner armor they did have things like torpedo defenses which the Alaska class did not.
#2 While their 12 inch 50 caliber guns were a technical marvel they were not battleship caliber guns of the time. The last US Battleship to have 12 inch guns was the Wyoming class 30 years before the Alaska's.
Hello Peter, once again excellent work and video. That was a ton of PE parts, far too many for me. The oxygen tanks were for many reasons, the one reason that I know of is, for emergency repairs, such as cutting into a bulkhead or cutting up debris from battle damage. Of course there could be other reasons. Again really well done on the build. In the US Navy we would tell someone BZ or "bravo zulu" meaning a job well done. Peter bravo zulu on this build, awesome work my friend. Looking forward to the next episode. Stay safe and healthy. Have a great week and all my best to you and your family. 👍👍🇦🇹🤝🇺🇸
Thanks Chris! I am glad you like it! The guam is a beautiful ship, it resembles the Iowas but is even more streamline-looking and shaped like a lance. What does BZ stand for? or are those signal flags? The explanation of the oxygen tanks sound great, there can be probably countless uses for oxygen on a ship, powering tools, ive never thought about that!
@@funinscale2892 BZ is an unofficial verbal term used for a job well done. Example, say a piece of electronic equipment went down while the ship is underway, and you repaired it quickly, the lieutenant, or maybe the executive officer (XO) may tell you bravo zulu as a compliment for doing a goog job. The oxygen tanks were used for cutting torch to cut up metal, to cut up debris or cutting into a bulkhead.
@@chrisC052 Then, thanks for the compliment! I have ordered the USS Oliver Hazard Perry from academy, i hope i can build it some time soon! Which pennant number was your ship, again?
@@funinscale2892 USS Rodney M. Davis (FFG-60)
@@chrisC052 Maybe i can find decals for this ship! I'll have a look
In Box Reviews have their place but there is nothing like a build video to expose the pro and cons of a kit and I am sure it keeps the manufacturers on their toes considering what the $$ they ask for a kit these days
Nice work on the ship. I congratulate you on your successful build. BUT I will say you should never leave your airbrush like that my friend. NOT trying to be rude that's how you ruin your investment. Very nice job you did the USS Guam some serious justice. I really am liking this Measure 22 scheme. I just learned about it very recently. Very nicely done. CLEAN that AIRBRUSH
Nice work modelcomrade
Thanks! I'm glad you like it!
what about maybe a 1/350 bismark?
About half done with my Alaska your ship looks awesome.
Thanks! Alaska has a much more complicated camo so i guess you must be careful when making all the subassemblies with that many PE parts
Wow great work wth so much details!
Looks liek this kit is a great deal for its price with all the pe and modern plastic molding.
I recomend you Tsesarevich 1904, it's one of the best Trumpeter kits.
Thanks! it is indeed a great value, hobby boss isnt too expensive with their kits!
I will look into the Tsesarevich, would be an interesting subject
Very impressive overall result. A minimum of rigging would not hurt. I would love to build this ship, because I like the particular sleek lines of it - but four sheets of PE is too much for me. I wonder whether Hobby Boss could be convinced to issue a "light" version of this kit, with a minimum of PE parts (i.e. railings and radar dishes) - a CB-2 Guam for mere mortals, so to say. I bet they would sell one or two of those.
A little late to the party but the build came out excellent! You have yourself a new sub 👍
Hi! Thanks very much for subscribing! I am glad you like the model!
One thing I found to assist in rigging is when using ez line fine the main superstructure shouldn't be cemented into place so you can rig the mainmast without knocking off any PE
As to the bottles, I do not know for sure so this is a guess. The Iowa's and other battleships had a high pressure compressed air system that was triggered when you opened the breech of a 16 inch gun. This was designed to blow any potential hot debris left in the barrel after the gun was fired. This would prevent you from putting powder bags into the barrel with burning embers and potentially exploding. I have no idea if they were related but I assume they would need some compressed air tanks for this system to work.
my uncle was a USS GUAM plankowner.
WOW VERY NICE! We are doing a documentary on the Alaska Class CB-1. It would be nice to have a photo of your ship!
hi rob! wow that is a cool offer, however, i dont have the finished model anymore. I am still in contact with the guy who has it now, i will ask him if he would like to make some photos for you and you two could directly email and work out with photos you need.
@@funinscale2892 that would be great thank you. What's the best way to get connected?
My email is in my about tab on my UA-cam channel.
Actually I have both Alaska and Guam I did the Alaska in Ms22 paint scheme but I'm doing Guam a little differently because I'm using the multi colored splinter camo pattern. I watched your video twice you are slick with the PE. I just had way too much problems with knocking them off
Amazing build ! Are the figures included ? Will love to get one of this kit , my even by watching you build it , my carpal tunnel started acting up. LOL ! Hope you and your loved ones have a great/safe weekend, Tony
Hi Tony! Thanks, im glad you like it! The figures are not included, they are a Tamiya addition kit, they have this one figure kit with 1/350 sailors and there are in total around 150 figures included, so you can make one ship quite cramped. I have only used one third on this ship, and if you concentrate them on only one side of the deck, the display side, it still looks adequate, so you can spare some for the next ship! Stay safe and healthy as well, thanks!
Top 👍👍👍
Floater nets, I just completed the USS Alaska. Yes worst part i had problems with was the radar on top of the secondary rangefinders
Radar is always challenging, i cheated a little bit with the smaller rectangle ones
On those floater net baskets they were only on 2 of the main turrets not all 3 . I always use actual photos for reference purposes. I have pictures of all 3 ships the 3rd having as I read never steamed under her own power and was scrapped.
@@georgedistel1203 Oh ok, i thought i saw it in the instructions that all turrets had the same layout but then i'm probably mistaken, Thanks for the info! Would be interesting to make the Hawaii in a state of construction where some superstructure parts are still missing or something similar, a crane that lifts armament into place
@@funinscale2892 my main reference book is warship pictorial the floater net baskets on the actual ship none on A turret 6 on B turret and 5 on C turret. I also placed life rafts on the front side of the platforms for the catapults. Can't wait to get Guam's subassemblies in primer to start Ms32/7c camo pattern
@@georgedistel1203 Damn thats a complicated camo! good luck with it, i'm sure with this camo, this ship will be even better looking!
It can be nitrogen for cooling canons . But most likely is a CO2 for antifire station . Oxygen - very unlikely .I was in navy.
Thanks for the info! I'll try and read further into this topic as those canisters are present on most late ww2 ships and some more modern vessels.
the oxygen was for going into places of the ship with toxic fumes, the iowa fired uranium rounds at the end of ww2 onwards i think..
Not during ww2 due to the scarcity and cost of the Manhattan project, but certainly afterwards a 16inch atomic shell was developed. However that being said toxic fumes would still be present in a burning ship with various types of plastic and other materials like asbestos and heavy metals being present and stirred up by a potential shell impact.
Just bought this kit yesterday. Thinking of getting either the infini Guam detail set or Very Fire Alaska detail set.
Hobby boss Alaska and Guam apparently have the exact model
Thats funny cause the guam was 5% cheaper than Alaska where i bought it. There might be some bamboozled people out there! Or they switch instructions so noone can make the other ship.
I really dont think this kit requires a detail set, it has plenty of nice and fine PE parts included already
@@funinscale2892 I honestly think the difference in price is just simply due to demand thanks to popularity.
Even in the shop I went to.
Alaska > Guam > Hawaii in price.
All 3 kits have same instructions, the only difference is in camouflage paint scheme
@@belfast4893 That sounds reasonable, i wasnt even aware of other alaska class ships before i looked into this model kit, but Alaska herself might be more known. Maybe they needed more ink to print the camouflage pattern :)
wonderfulllllll!!!!!!...its always a surprise discover your video...i love battleships but i never built one...no a moment...i built the bismark when i was young, at the moment i try only built and paint airplanes of the 2 war...did you bild one???...there is possible to se one video?...tanks and greatings from Roberto Venezia
Thanks Roberto! Living in Venezia, you must be quite used to ships sailing past you! I am not very good at building planes, i mostly like ships and sometimes i like to build land vehicles but planes i do very rarely because they never come out as nice as i had imagined them to be!
How did you measure where to position the waterline black strip?
I have the Alaska and I may start her next.
Good luck with the Alaska! I wasn't brave enough for that camouflage! :D
I have a question...when you put the black panel line wash on a model are you supposed to let it sit for a little bit before you wipe it because every time I put some on it just comes right off like there was never any in the first place
I did not use a panel line wash on this kit, i only did some weathering with oil paints (without dilution in white spirit). But i would usually put on the wash over a whole model and when i am finished with applying, i start wiping, blending and streaking, depending on the model. You can also wait longer but then you would probably need a little bit of thinner to remove wash that got to places you didnt want it to go. Many people use q-tips wetted with thinner for washes for removing washes because when you drag it around the surface lightly, then the q-tip will get to the flat surfaces, but will not remove the wash from around small raised detail and it gets highlighted
Yay
I injoyed watching you build this model if i may ask what was the cost of this model.I have bought models on line and so far i have gotten junk how do i know what to look for thank you.
Hi! I would recommend Trumpeter kits, as they are usually enjoyable to build, not too hard, have quite a good detail and also include some metal upgrade parts, sometimes. Most importantly, they are not too expensive.
Love your work. PS any rigging?
Hello! I only do rigging from time to time because it is so annoying to make, and with very fine rigging rope, you dont really see it, and the medium rigging rope ran out the other day and i cant find it anymore. This shouldn't be an excuse, i just dont really like doing it, but it would add greatly to any ship model, that is true for sure
Does the glue that you use allow you to put plastic parts on painted surfaces and have it stick securely? If so what kind of glue do you use?
Hello! I use Mr Cement S, but still, it is very easy to destroy the paint, so i use very little glue, but it is durable enough to stick in place. Sometimes, i experiment with the Mr Cement Deluxe (Yellow one) or Mr Cement (Orange one), they dont dissolve the paint but leave some shiny spots when dry, when applying flat varnish, they are slightly raised and visible, so using very little Mr Cement Deluxe would be the most secure option.
I am in complete Awe of your skill and Steady Hand I would love to know what type of super glue and consistency and how you apply it to the PE or is that a trade secret?
hello! Thanks very much! I use a gel-consistency super glue, spreading some out on a plastic sheet and dunking the PE parts slightly into it. It is a Loctite power flex gel, dont know if this is available everywhere
@@funinscale2892 thank you for that I saw the Loctite in your video but it's hard to make out thank you for sharing
are you aware of a new type CA glue I believe it's made in England it's called CA Flexi 5K it comes in several consistencies and it stays open longer up to 150% longer than regular CA and they have one that stays open even longer for dioramas! I love your videos they are best!
@@philipcasa7379 Thanks very much! I'll look into the ca glue, but im hardly modelling anymore at the moment, im quite occupied with work.
May I know if you are using one same glue to manage both plastics and PE parts?
Hello! I am using Mr Cement S or Mr Cement (the orange, thicker one) for the plastic parts, and super glue (gel consistency with rubber particles) for the PE parts. The super glue is called Loctite Power Flex Gel, and it gives the PE parts an instant grip which is great for small parts that would fall off otherwise
Do you recommend me bying the 1/200 bismark or missouri, i heard the bismark had more pe
I haven't built any of those but i'm not the biggest connoisseur of german shipping, I would go for the missouri as its larger, and get the surrender ceremony figure set in 1/200 from trumpeter and build the ceremony that ended WW2 on it, that would be cool!
@@funinscale2892 thanks
Hi ..i had a nice conversation eith you last night i had another question of you have a min. Do you have a paint booth? I use an air gun on occasions and LOVE Tamayi paints since there acrylic, do i even need a paint booth? Am watching your USS GUAM build. Thanks!
Hi! I dont have a painting booth, i have my desk in the living room and spray there without mask or booth; it is probably not the best thing to do as i also thin my tamiya paints with isopropyl alcohol, but i dont have space for a painting booth with ventilation. I just open the window i am sitting next to. at least,... sometimes
@@funinscale2892 oh thank you! I have my shop in the basement and thin with Tamayi stuff. There is so little spray and so Finley directed i just dont have a toxics problem. Im watching several of your builds im am really interested in your building style and weathering. Thanks for the text...stay safe fellow modeler friend!
which paint did you use and how much thinner for the deck?
I used Field Blue from Tamiya, and it was around 30% paint and 70% isopropyl alcohol as thinner
@@funinscale2892 thanks
The blast bags look underdetailed, no sag lines in them
True, they are not very detailed, but then again, they are black and a shading would not be visible anyway. The kit is superb in all the other ways so i can live with that! :D
The Tanks are Oxygen and or Fire Bottles.Red or dark green.
Thanks for the info! So they are coloured red or dark green? i remember when making an iowa in 1/200, there were different sizes of bottles, with the guam, there was only one size, i guess this is because of simplification and scale, but the big ones, i assume, are the oxygen tanks?
What music is this?
The music is from a website called www.bensound.com, there is a licence free music everyone can use in their videos or projects
sorry if im to demanding wwith new models to build
Next subject won't be a ship! it is already in motion :) But then, i have another exciting project, it should arrive with shipping today, and it will be huge!
@@funinscale2892 Is it a 1/16 scale tank or 1/18 scale plane??
@@zhaoliu9080 The one i almost finished is a 1/35 tank, the centurion mk 5 avre that i have built recently. The next one might be a ship again, a large one!
なんこれアラスカ級?
模型歴は何年ぐらいですか、瞬間接着剤は着けすぎるし、塗装もいい加減ですね、模型が可哀想です。