Thanks for this video! I'd given up on metallic paints, unable to produce satisfactory results from brushes. Seeing your results, I'll be shopping for an airbrush soon.
That's a great idea! I have seen others use the same Krylon paint with impressive results. Join my email list and send me pics of your work. I would love to post it on my YT community board! Please sub to my channel as well so you get the notified when the next video of this series drops.
There is also another way to go with your paints. You can add a drop or two of Black or Yellow paint to the silver and paint the areas you want to have a slightly different metallic look. Years ago, this was a technique I learned when applying bare metal foil on aircraft models. We would thin down one or two drops of gloss Black to the point it was a slightly dark clear thinner then airbrush a Bare Metal sheet to get the effect. It is somethng you need to experiment with to get it right. When I worked real aircraft in the USAF, I found that many of the aluminum sheets used to repair the aircraft can have slightly different textures and colors, depending on the metal manufacturer and if it has a corrosion preventative applied to it. Pure aluminum will form a thin layer of oxide that keeps it from corroding and will give it a slightly dull but shiny appearance. Some aluminum sheeting the Sheet Metal shop would get would be shiny but one sheet would have like a very slightly darker tint to it. Other sheets would have that slightly yellow tint to it. The variance to them was so slight you needed to have one sheet next to the other in the sunlight to really see it. FYI, some of the more modern military aircraft, like the A-10 will have on the wings, a clear Leading Edge Tape applied. This was done to keep the paint from excessive wear and stripping back over the wings. You can get that same look on a model with some dull Scotch Tape.
Whoa. 28 years ago..... I did a similar "technique" with little knowledge, with only the products available. I used rattle can paint for the base (grey), then weather seams . Sprayed chrome paint over everything. Let dry for 2 days? Then buffed with steel wool. Then weather paint again. Came out amazing. I wish I still have the model. (all without help from the internet or even a model maker) I'm just saying, There are cheaper or easier ways to accomplish the same effects. I've seen so many products that are sold today, producing the easy effect. But I'm thinking the old fashion way is easier to control. Shy away from the cartoonie effect.
Horses for courses I suppose guys. But as someone who has always struggled with NMF I will try anything. Can I ask if you used a varnish coat and if so, which one? Obviously asking the two commenters here. Thanks, Ian
Great video, solid techniques. The "ghosting" you mention is tape adhesive. I avoid using even Tamiya tape on metal. I cut "Post It Notes" to fit. This adhesive is much weaker and requires working on only one or two areas at a time as the masks may lift if not watched carefully. Post Its won't leave that residue.
Thank you! That is what I am shooting for. I love the scale model content on YT but a lot of it does not give details on how the technique was accomplished. I am trying to fix that with my content.
Great video, and I just noticed at the beginning you have a still of the B-17 "Chuckie". I personally got to work on that aircraft a few times. Unfortunately it crashed and burned and was totally destroyed a few years back. Great video.
Some EXCELLENT tips for sure but (yeah, there's always a BUT!) I'll throw another option into the mix: I just finished a 1/48 Monogram B-24J that I re-scribed and riveted (yeah, seek meds) and my "process" is basically the same as yours but I prefer Alclad's Aqua Gloss over the Polished Aluminum. NO ghost marks from masking with the Tamiya tape, it doesn't alter the sheen of the Polished Aluminum and therefore no need for the AK Extreme Metal. Yes, the Aqua Gloss is an acrylic but I've never had any problem with it changing the sheen or lifting when masked. I can also attest to its incredible toughness as when I did my oil wash on the panel lines, I left it on WAY too long and it pretty much fully dried. Using the typical oderless thinner, I REALLY had to work to get the excess oil paint off and zero damage to the Polished Aluminum (and other shades) already applied. Yes, the Aqua Gloss is just that, a gloss but it was already going over Polished Aluminum. I decaled, sprayed more Aqua Gloss over the decals to seal them and then sprayed flat over the decaled areas only. Now having typed this novel, you definitely have a good system that works for you and thank you for taking the time to put it on video! Oh lastly....it looks like you sprayed the Airframe Aluminum over the Polished Aluminum, correct? That's perfectly fine but remember it will certainly look different over Polished Aluminum than gloss black or gray. Make sense?
Some really great tips here. That's what I love about scale modeling, more than one way to accomplish the same result. I had bad luck with Alclads aqua gloss in the past, but that could be operator error. Join my email list and send me a pic of your work. Would love to post it on my YT community board. I could also include your breakdown on how you did it. Link in description of video to join email.
Absolutely gorgeous, thanks for sharing! I used to use the super light monocote which strengthens the foam and looks ok from a distance, but this is gorgeous!
thank you so much! I am working on the b-17 non metallic colors over the holidays and hope to have a video out in a few weeks on the progress. Be sure to subscribe so you are updated when the new content drops!
Great video, I have this model in my stash, will definitely be using this technique. May on a cheaper model Ist. Thank you for sharing your hack, looks stunning.
Great. I can start work on my long out of production B-58 Hustler model, a huge ancient long out of production 1/48 scale Monogram kit. I love bare aluminum early cold war era jets
@@StyreneModelersHaven It's a very tough kit as far as insuring perfect invisible seams and gaps. This is going to be a really hard to handle model as it gets metalized. I plan on hiding thick plastic beams inside the inside the wings where the engines meet the wing. The idea is for the engines to be temporarily removed so I can paint them better. The same goes with reengineering the landing gear. I expect to spend over 300 hours on this model. Sounds excessive but the model needs heavy reengineering just so I can safely handle it while painting.
Trying this out on a P-47D right now! learned the hard way not to use too much pressure on the black undercoat, wet sanded so should be GTG, after that I plan to tackle a b-17!
G’day, I wish to thank you very much for sharing the secrets to the best way to produce the Natural Metal Finish. It is great appreciated and comes at the perfect time of coming across your video. As I have just acquired the 1/48 Gloster Meteor by Airfix. Many thanks again and I look forward to watch many more of your videos. Kindest Regards and Respect, Ray from Sydney Australia.
Check your references. I believe the RAAF Meteors were painted High Speed Silver just as the RAF ones were, rather than left as a natural metal. This is a silvery gray paint. Many paint lines now have a HSS color, including Alclad II. You can use StyreneModelersHaven's technique as described in the video, with the Alclad HSS, or you could simply use Tamiya AS-12. Have fun with your "meatbox" (love the Meteor!).
This should work out great for you! Please join my email list and send me pics of your progress when you get to the NMF stage. I would love to share it on my YT community board. It's free to join and I send tips and tricks to my email list as well as updates on new content! styrenehaven.systeme.io/opt-in
A - MAZING!! I have one NMF build that is nearing paint. I will certainly be attempting this paint process on this build, after a trip to the hobby shop. Thanks for the insight.
Looks really good! I've watched Adam Savage build props for years, sometimes he uses anproduct called rub and buff, but I don't think it's friendly to being handled or painted over. Still always been curious to know how it would look on a model...
@StyreneModelersHaven Absolutely killer tutorial. This has been in my watch later, forever. Should have watched it sooner. Now I'm going to date myself here. RubNBuff, used to be the go to metallic finish in the late '70's early '80's ish. LOL. Yeah,@jetjazz05, I assume you play? RNB is still being made and sold as local as your nearest Michael's. You are looking for a card/bubble pack, gold colored IIRC, and a small travel tooth paste tube like container. Found some recently in the pen and marker section. It's a wax type of paste, that you smear around and try to level to your best and then buff. I've heard you can spray it but have not tried that one. Good for dry brushing highlights. I apologize for the long reply.
@@StyreneModelersHaven and I appreciate your videos and tutorials. I’ve subscribed some time ago and get a notification of your new videos. Your work is good inspiration for my modeling. Some examples are on my UA-cam channel. Ciao!
Very informative video. My NMF’s are always very poor and I haven’t attempted one since last year. There’s a lot of great advice in the comments too. Thanks all
@@StyreneModelersHaven i have everything to have excerpt the Alcad base. And a lot of Lightnings (1960’s British ) to do. Thanks for the encouragement. Ian
I’ve gone through three Tamiya 1/48 P-51s, each were stripped 2-3 times because the NMF was messed up. Hopefully it will not happen again with the kit I’m working on now. Awesome video, thanks.
Hi great video cracked the code. May I ask, why you can't use the AK for the first metallic stage instead of Alclad metal finish. Not that I would try it other than on a test mule, but maybe its a reaction issue. Kind regards Dave Porter London
You can use AK polished aluminum as the primary metal coat but I did not like AK polished aluminum. It almost looked like it had glitter in it, at least the bottle I had. IMO, the Alclad left a better more convincing polished aluminum. Really you can use any high shine metallic paint as the base. The idea is you want to start shiny since the final AK aluminum is going to tone it down. If you start with something already less shiny, AK aluminum will mute it more. Not that it is a bad thing. You could experiment if you want to go with a more war weary look. I am going for a little more shine on the b-17.
It’s an awful lot of work but sizing the surface and gilding it with silver leaf produces the most genuine looking metal finish possible because that’s what our creating, a metal finish. If the sanding prep work is executed properly, you end up with a mirror like surface you can actually see your reflection in.
What an informative video! I just wonder why the ghosting happened? I experienced it before but I didn't figure out why. I was thinking it was the tape residue so I rubbed it with enamel thinner; obviously it wouldn't work, I ended up with repainting. I am still puzzling why. If you could share any thought, it would be so appreciated.
My guess is that that the adhesive reacts with the metal paint or perhaps the adhesive pulls some of the mica powder when you de mask. Only a guess though.
I wonder how's the clear base is going to hold over time. I've just been to my hobby shop and they had 2 bottles of it: one has almost indistinguishable tint of yellow where another one was closer to the clear yellow... With that in mind in the past what I was doing I was priming with Mr Primer 1500, giving it a rub with 3000, then was applying decanted tamiya silver leaf or gloss aluminum, then alclad airframe aluminum, aqua gloss, mask with tape, apply other shades of metals and then thin layer of alclad airframe aluminum or chrome. Aqua gloss, decals, aqua gloss and then alclad light sheen or klear kote gloss with a bit of light sheen b/c when it is either gloss or aqua gloss it looks like glazed doughnut to me.
If your method works and you like the results, that is great! There is more than one way to achieve different finishes and there is no right or wrong way. That is what I love about this hobby, so many great solutions and different techniques to achieve the same result.
This is so enlightening! Thanks for the great video🙌🏼. Been messing around with some of the same products, came close but never cracked the code so far. This here should help!
Glad the video helped! Please sub to my channel so you will be updated when my new content drops. Working on the b-17 and also doing a vid on how to paint checkerboard pattern on aircraft
Very interesting and informative, thanks very much for sharing! Have you by any chance tried the Alclad Aqua Gloss (not their normal "Klear Cotes" as they call them) instead of the Alclad Clear Base? The latter is quite difficult to find at most online model shops right now, and I think Alclad themselves recommend the Aqua Gloss for sealing their metallic paints without taking away their special sheen. Aqua Gloss is water based so it may have a different effect if sprayed over the normal Alclad metallics, so I would be interested to know if you tried this and if yes, what do you think. Many thanks!
I really like the Alclad Aqua Gloss, but it's not quite perfect, cresting a bit of slight "haze" to an otherwise perfect Alclad finish. Just like if you spray the Alclad metalic color, at to high a psi, or just to many coats. I'm going to have to try the Alclad Gloss Klear Kote again, having sprayed way too much on at once, getting the color underneath to "vanish" in some spots, as you described. VERY LIGHT coats, and Keep Moving, should, "do the trick".
Glad to have you back! Many members in the model club I am in have come back after decades. Most of them catch up in just a few months and really build some amazing models in no time. The hobby is better than ever with the best kits I have ever seen and tons of supplies and tools.
@@StyreneModelersHaven I am seeing that big time however it’s also scary! Maybe I can’t do it to that level but I am would be gutted to just build them out the box……follow me? Bob
@@BobMuir100 Join a model club either locally or online. Facebook has a ton of great model groups to join and most everyone is more than willing to help and offer advice. There is also so much great content on YT for tips and tricks. Just have fun and don't try and tackle too many techniques on each build. Pick 1-2 techniques to try on each build and grow your knowledge. In no time you will have mastered several techniques and each of your builds will just get better.
I know how you feel Bob, I had a 30-year gap (still had a stash but other hobbies had taken priority) seeing all the new weathering products and the aftermarket additions was very daunting. I decided to pick up some of the Airfix kits from Aldi last year and it was a nice cheap way to get back into the hobby. Even these entry models are much better to build than 30 years ago, go get some and enjoy.
Just saw this video and I wanted to thank you for taking the time to capture each step. Very informative and something I like to try someday and this will come in handy when that day comes. 🙂
You can do it! Lots of people have small spaces they work in. I have seen many have a mobile setup using a tool box or fishing tackle box to hold all their tools. They setup on the kitchen table, hobby for a little while and then just pack it back for the next time. For painting you can do the same thing and just paint outside when its nice or near a window with a fan. There are YT videos on small setups for building models!
Subbed thanks. What’s the final coat you use for bare Aluminium ? Semi gloss varnish? Mine looks too dull with Matt over Vallejo silver base but too glossy with gloss varnish 😂
I had the tape issue on a P51 i was working on. Was frustrating me every time i painted another color over it. Nose color, tail color, ainti glare strip. So once you vanish all the tape ghosting with the AK aluminum, then hit it with the base coat again, I should be good to paint the rest of the colors without the tape smoo showing back up then?
@@StyreneModelersHaven awesome! I threw the P51 on the shelf of shame. Once I'm done with my current build, I'll get it back down, strip the paint, and follow this method! Thanks! The videos are great!
FAN-F*%&ING-TASTIC!!!! I'm ordering the supplies now. I've been waiting to get good at metalizer, or something, in order to build my B-17G. "My" '17 used to belong to the local museum when I was just a boy, as did I! I was furthermore lucky enough to help care for and ride the beautiful craft several times. But she ended up breaking my heart when she was sold after the museum folded😢. I've wanted to build a proper tribute to the bomber that seduced me into the world of flying. The kit has lived in my shop waiting for me to get the courage to start the project, as anything short of perfection simply wouldn't do justice to the immense love I have for "my" B-17G "Fuddy Duddy". RIP National Warplane Museum of Horseheads N.Y.
Actually, the bare metal finish on aircraft because more commonplace near the end of WWII til the Vietnam Era. This was because aircraft-like the P-38 Lightning and the P-51 Mustang followed by the early jets became so fast that the paint kept peeling off the aircraft! It became a cost issue to keep repainting aircraft. The faster the planes became, the worse the problem got. Then, they developed epoxy-based paints that stayed on. The Airforce initially didn’t mind so much because they figured speed and, in the cases of the B-29, B-36, etc., altitude would keep their aircraft safe but Navy welcomed this solution because seawater and salt are corrosive to metals.
Thanks for watching! Be sure to subscribe to my channel, I am working on the next installment of the B-17 build and also working on how to paint checker tails and cowls!
If only there was an easy to apply, handle and mask realistic looking Chrome! Sadly I've not had much luck with either AK Extreme Metal Chrome, Alclad Chrome, or Molotow Liquid Chrome either straight from the pen or decanted and airbrushed...
Okay. You need GX100 as a base coat. Spray GX100 thinned with some leveling thinner, then spray some pure leveling thinner before it driesl. A lot of your pictures show orange peel and garbage in your base coat. You have to polish that base gloss layer and clean it before you spray any metallic finish. I like a lacquer metallic topped with an acrylic gloss like Neo T-239 then VMS gloss. A gloss coat is gonna steal reflectivity away no matter what.
Just an FYI, there is NO better tape than pinstriping tape for masking and especially areas on curves or uneven surfaces. Not only that it is way cheaper then modeler branded tape.
Way too over complicated. I just sprayed a P-51 with Vallejo metallics. Simply primed and painted as I would any other model. Looks amazing. I even painted one wing gloss black before applying the metallic to see if it mattered. Didn’t make a difference. Way too much work for the end result.
Only one way to make "natural metal" is applying aluminium foil to your model. Painting - is like you try to cheat YOURSELF with "natural metal". Proof is easy: i ntroduce me some good photos of models painting in your style and some photos of models covered with real aluminium foil. The result: every modelist EASILY determine where is real aluminium cover and where is ridiculous imitation of "real metal" with expensive advertised paints. We can really make this experiment. So, I heil to believe your own eyes, and not believe to advertisement!
Looks really great! But I can't say this is "natural" metal finish, cause natural plane aluminium coverage is scratched and stressed. Your technique is closer to factory metal finish.
This video deserves special commendation
Thank you!
Thanks for this video! I'd given up on metallic paints, unable to produce satisfactory results from brushes. Seeing your results, I'll be shopping for an airbrush soon.
You're welcome!
I seem to get a great metal look from Krylon Aluminum spray paint; I touch it up with highlights & shadows using some metallic acrylic brush paints.
That's a great idea! I have seen others use the same Krylon paint with impressive results. Join my email list and send me pics of your work. I would love to post it on my YT community board! Please sub to my channel as well so you get the notified when the next video of this series drops.
There is also another way to go with your paints. You can add a drop or two of Black or Yellow paint to the silver and paint the areas you want to have a slightly different metallic look. Years ago, this was a technique I learned when applying bare metal foil on aircraft models. We would thin down one or two drops of gloss Black to the point it was a slightly dark clear thinner then airbrush a Bare Metal sheet to get the effect. It is somethng you need to experiment with to get it right. When I worked real aircraft in the USAF, I found that many of the aluminum sheets used to repair the aircraft can have slightly different textures and colors, depending on the metal manufacturer and if it has a corrosion preventative applied to it. Pure aluminum will form a thin layer of oxide that keeps it from corroding and will give it a slightly dull but shiny appearance. Some aluminum sheeting the Sheet Metal shop would get would be shiny but one sheet would have like a very slightly darker tint to it. Other sheets would have that slightly yellow tint to it. The variance to them was so slight you needed to have one sheet next to the other in the sunlight to really see it.
FYI, some of the more modern military aircraft, like the A-10 will have on the wings, a clear Leading Edge Tape applied. This was done to keep the paint from excessive wear and stripping back over the wings. You can get that same look on a model with some dull Scotch Tape.
Wow! Great tip and insights! You should make a video about how this works. I would love to see it.
Awesome and thank you! This clear coat process for metallic paint has been frustrating!
You are so welcome!
Thank you! About to try this out on the F-104 Saber Fighter.
Have fun!
Just bought an old Monogram B-24J 1:48 kit from Ebay which I will paint with this method. Excellent tutorial!!! THANKS :)
Glad it helped!
Whoa. 28 years ago..... I did a similar "technique" with little knowledge, with only the products available. I used rattle can paint for the base (grey), then weather seams . Sprayed chrome paint over everything. Let dry for 2 days? Then buffed with steel wool. Then weather paint again. Came out amazing. I wish I still have the model. (all without help from the internet or even a model maker) I'm just saying, There are cheaper or easier ways to accomplish the same effects. I've seen so many products that are sold today, producing the easy effect. But I'm thinking the old fashion way is easier to control. Shy away from the cartoonie effect.
Interesting approach. You should try it again and video your results. You could make a video on YT.
So true , also did a simular technique back then .
Horses for courses I suppose guys. But as someone who has always struggled with NMF I will try anything.
Can I ask if you used a varnish coat and if so, which one? Obviously asking the two commenters here.
Thanks,
Ian
I used Alclads clear base.
@@StyreneModelersHaven Thanks
Great video, solid techniques. The "ghosting" you mention is tape adhesive. I avoid using even Tamiya tape on metal. I cut "Post It Notes" to fit. This adhesive is much weaker and requires working on only one or two areas at a time as the masks may lift if not watched carefully. Post Its won't leave that residue.
Great tip!
Excellent tutorial! Thank you for taking the time.
You're welcome!
Thank you for this video, I don't do airplanes, but there are a couple of cars that I can apply this technique to
Yes you can! Thanks for watching.
great vid- clear, concise, and shows you how to fix/avoid problems that come up...
Thank you! That is what I am shooting for. I love the scale model content on YT but a lot of it does not give details on how the technique was accomplished. I am trying to fix that with my content.
Great video! Clear, concise and understandable. Thanks very useful. Wish other posts were as beneficial.
Much appreciated!
My God that was a deep dive
I hope it was helpful, lol. Please sub to my channel if you would like to see more content like this.
Great video, and I just noticed at the beginning you have a still of the B-17 "Chuckie". I personally got to work on that aircraft a few times. Unfortunately it crashed and burned and was totally destroyed a few years back. Great video.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video. I’m just about to start with my Alclad II paints so this is a real life saver!
Perfect timing!
Some EXCELLENT tips for sure but (yeah, there's always a BUT!) I'll throw another option into the mix: I just finished a 1/48 Monogram B-24J that I re-scribed and riveted (yeah, seek meds) and my "process" is basically the same as yours but I prefer Alclad's Aqua Gloss over the Polished Aluminum. NO ghost marks from masking with the Tamiya tape, it doesn't alter the sheen of the Polished Aluminum and therefore no need for the AK Extreme Metal. Yes, the Aqua Gloss is an acrylic but I've never had any problem with it changing the sheen or lifting when masked. I can also attest to its incredible toughness as when I did my oil wash on the panel lines, I left it on WAY too long and it pretty much fully dried. Using the typical oderless thinner, I REALLY had to work to get the excess oil paint off and zero damage to the Polished Aluminum (and other shades) already applied. Yes, the Aqua Gloss is just that, a gloss but it was already going over Polished Aluminum. I decaled, sprayed more Aqua Gloss over the decals to seal them and then sprayed flat over the decaled areas only. Now having typed this novel, you definitely have a good system that works for you and thank you for taking the time to put it on video!
Oh lastly....it looks like you sprayed the Airframe Aluminum over the Polished Aluminum, correct? That's perfectly fine but remember it will certainly look different over Polished Aluminum than gloss black or gray. Make sense?
Some really great tips here. That's what I love about scale modeling, more than one way to accomplish the same result. I had bad luck with Alclads aqua gloss in the past, but that could be operator error. Join my email list and send me a pic of your work. Would love to post it on my YT community board. I could also include your breakdown on how you did it. Link in description of video to join email.
Absolutely gorgeous, thanks for sharing! I used to use the super light monocote which strengthens the foam and looks ok from a distance, but this is gorgeous!
thank you so much! I am working on the b-17 non metallic colors over the holidays and hope to have a video out in a few weeks on the progress. Be sure to subscribe so you are updated when the new content drops!
Great video, I have this model in my stash, will definitely be using this technique. May on a cheaper model Ist. Thank you for sharing your hack, looks stunning.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, thanks. I love the idea of using metal coat hangers to hold the kit during the paint process. Brilliant. Sub added
Thank you and glad I was able to help!
Great. I can start work on my long out of production B-58 Hustler model, a huge ancient long out of production 1/48 scale Monogram kit. I love bare aluminum early cold war era jets
Still a great kit! I have one in the stash too.
@@StyreneModelersHaven It's a very tough kit as far as insuring perfect invisible seams and gaps. This is going to be a really hard to handle model as it gets metalized. I plan on hiding thick plastic beams inside the inside the wings where the engines meet the wing. The idea is for the engines to be temporarily removed so I can paint them better. The same goes with reengineering the landing gear. I expect to spend over 300 hours on this model. Sounds excessive but the model needs heavy reengineering just so I can safely handle it while painting.
Trying this out on a P-47D right now! learned the hard way not to use too much pressure on the black undercoat, wet sanded so should be GTG, after that I plan to tackle a b-17!
Glad it helped!
@@StyreneModelersHaven So it came out pretty good but the Allclad top coat is gritty, can I do a light wet sand?
NM I used 10k wet/dry and it looks awesome!
G’day,
I wish to thank you very much for sharing the secrets to the best way to produce the Natural Metal Finish.
It is great appreciated and comes at the perfect time of coming across your video.
As I have just acquired the 1/48 Gloster Meteor by Airfix.
Many thanks again and I look forward to watch many more of your videos.
Kindest Regards and Respect,
Ray from Sydney Australia.
You are very welcome! I am glad I was able to help you.
Check your references. I believe the RAAF Meteors were painted High Speed Silver just as the RAF ones were, rather than left as a natural metal. This is a silvery gray paint. Many paint lines now have a HSS color, including Alclad II. You can use StyreneModelersHaven's technique as described in the video, with the Alclad HSS, or you could simply use Tamiya AS-12. Have fun with your "meatbox" (love the Meteor!).
Thanx for the tutorial, I have a revell 1/48 B-17 I will be painting in natural metal finish.
This should work out great for you! Please join my email list and send me pics of your progress when you get to the NMF stage. I would love to share it on my YT community board. It's free to join and I send tips and tricks to my email list as well as updates on new content! styrenehaven.systeme.io/opt-in
A - MAZING!! I have one NMF build that is nearing paint. I will certainly be attempting this paint process on this build, after a trip to the hobby shop. Thanks for the insight.
Thanks for watching! You inspired me based on building off your technique!
Im doing a p51 now and will try this. Thx.
Glad I could help!
Thanks, good, informative video. Like how your B-17 is coming along.
Thank you! Please subscribe to my channel so you get notified when the next installment of the b-17 build drops.
Already did.
Looks really good! I've watched Adam Savage build props for years, sometimes he uses anproduct called rub and buff, but I don't think it's friendly to being handled or painted over. Still always been curious to know how it would look on a model...
I have heard of rub and buff but never used it. Not sure but I don't thinks it's available anymore. I could be wrong though.
@StyreneModelersHaven
Absolutely killer tutorial.
This has been in my watch later, forever.
Should have watched it sooner.
Now I'm going to date myself here.
RubNBuff, used to be the go to metallic finish in the late '70's early '80's ish. LOL.
Yeah,@jetjazz05, I assume you play?
RNB is still being made and sold as local as your nearest Michael's.
You are looking for a card/bubble pack, gold colored IIRC, and a small travel tooth paste tube like container. Found some recently in the pen and marker section.
It's a wax type of paste, that you smear around and try to level to your best and then buff.
I've heard you can spray it but have not tried that one.
Good for dry brushing highlights.
I apologize for the long reply.
Thanks for the tip!
Awsome!! You are a true craftsman.
Wow! Craftsman, that is a compliment, thank you! I will be sure to keep pushing great content.
Great video! Thanks for this great tutorial.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for explaining the process, got very frustrated with the AK products, quite less than advertised by another popular tutorial.
I totally get that. Most metallic paints over promise but a good process fixes these shortcomings.
Great vid, thanks for sharing! 👍👍
Thanks for watching! Please sub to my channel!
Excellent tutorial. So detailed, clear and precise. Thank you, very, very helpful!
Thank you! I appreciate your comment.
@@StyreneModelersHaven and I appreciate your videos and tutorials. I’ve subscribed some time ago and get a notification of your new videos. Your work is good inspiration for my modeling. Some examples are on my UA-cam channel. Ciao!
Very nice.
Thank you! Cheers!
Very informative video. My NMF’s are always very poor and I haven’t attempted one since last year.
There’s a lot of great advice in the comments too.
Thanks all
I hope this will inspire you to try again. Thanks for watching and please sub to my channel to see more content.
@@StyreneModelersHaven i have everything to have excerpt the Alcad base.
And a lot of Lightnings (1960’s British ) to do.
Thanks for the encouragement.
Ian
I’ve gone through three Tamiya 1/48 P-51s, each were stripped 2-3 times because the NMF was messed up. Hopefully it will not happen again with the kit I’m working on now. Awesome video, thanks.
Please let me know your results after trying this technique!
Thanks for sharing your technique.👍
My pleasure! Please sub to my channel for more videos I will be dropping soon.
@@StyreneModelersHaven already subbed you, thanks 🙂
Great video sir, very helpful, cheers Liam
Happy to help
I want to see how you’re going to do the antiglare panels because I’m fixing to tackle sentimental journey
That was simple masking off and painting with a couple different colors. Watch part one and two of the Chuckie build. It shows what I did.
@@StyreneModelersHaven will do ill check it out thanks
Great NMF tutorial 👍 thanks for sharing it is going to come in handy!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks Trey!
Hi great video cracked the code. May I ask, why you can't use the AK for the first metallic stage instead of Alclad metal finish. Not that I would try it other than on a test mule, but maybe its a reaction issue. Kind regards Dave Porter London
You can use AK polished aluminum as the primary metal coat but I did not like AK polished aluminum. It almost looked like it had glitter in it, at least the bottle I had. IMO, the Alclad left a better more convincing polished aluminum. Really you can use any high shine metallic paint as the base. The idea is you want to start shiny since the final AK aluminum is going to tone it down. If you start with something already less shiny, AK aluminum will mute it more. Not that it is a bad thing. You could experiment if you want to go with a more war weary look. I am going for a little more shine on the b-17.
It’s an awful lot of work but sizing the surface and gilding it with silver leaf produces the most genuine looking metal finish possible because that’s what our creating, a metal finish. If the sanding prep work is executed properly, you end up with a mirror like surface you can actually see your reflection in.
Agreed! It is a lot of work, but nothing beats real metal.
Thank you for this video!!!!
You bet!
What an informative video! I just wonder why the ghosting happened? I experienced it before but I didn't figure out why. I was thinking it was the tape residue so I rubbed it with enamel thinner; obviously it wouldn't work, I ended up with repainting. I am still puzzling why. If you could share any thought, it would be so appreciated.
My guess is that that the adhesive reacts with the metal paint or perhaps the adhesive pulls some of the mica powder when you de mask. Only a guess though.
Thanks for the info. I will give it a try and see what happens Thanks Steve U.K.
No problem 👍
I wonder how's the clear base is going to hold over time. I've just been to my hobby shop and they had 2 bottles of it: one has almost indistinguishable tint of yellow where another one was closer to the clear yellow...
With that in mind in the past what I was doing I was priming with Mr Primer 1500, giving it a rub with 3000, then was applying decanted tamiya silver leaf or gloss aluminum, then alclad airframe aluminum, aqua gloss, mask with tape, apply other shades of metals and then thin layer of alclad airframe aluminum or chrome. Aqua gloss, decals, aqua gloss and then alclad light sheen or klear kote gloss with a bit of light sheen b/c when it is either gloss or aqua gloss it looks like glazed doughnut to me.
If your method works and you like the results, that is great! There is more than one way to achieve different finishes and there is no right or wrong way. That is what I love about this hobby, so many great solutions and different techniques to achieve the same result.
This is so enlightening! Thanks for the great video🙌🏼. Been messing around with some of the same products, came close but never cracked the code so far. This here should help!
Glad the video helped! Please sub to my channel so you will be updated when my new content drops. Working on the b-17 and also doing a vid on how to paint checkerboard pattern on aircraft
thanks!!! I have a question- how do you remove accidental fingerprints once the Aluminum coat goes on?
That would require sanding and reapplying the metal coat.
Very interesting and informative, thanks very much for sharing! Have you by any chance tried the Alclad Aqua Gloss (not their normal "Klear Cotes" as they call them) instead of the Alclad Clear Base? The latter is quite difficult to find at most online model shops right now, and I think Alclad themselves recommend the Aqua Gloss for sealing their metallic paints without taking away their special sheen. Aqua Gloss is water based so it may have a different effect if sprayed over the normal Alclad metallics, so I would be interested to know if you tried this and if yes, what do you think. Many thanks!
I have not tried the aqua gloss. If you do try it please give us your feedback!
Hi. Do you have a video for painting the Japanese A5M2B Claude? It's metallic and has a near yellow clear. Would appreciate for your response ☺️
No, sorry I don't. I don't build much Japanese aircraft.
Very cool. That’s a lot of work.
Not as much as you think. Give it a try on a smaller model.
I really like the Alclad Aqua Gloss, but it's not quite perfect, cresting a bit of slight "haze" to an otherwise perfect Alclad finish. Just like if you spray the Alclad metalic color, at to high a psi, or just to many coats.
I'm going to have to try the Alclad Gloss Klear Kote again, having sprayed way too much on at once, getting the color underneath to "vanish" in some spots, as you described.
VERY LIGHT coats, and Keep Moving, should, "do the trick".
Keep experimenting!
I have 1/18 F86 Sabre in the box and deliberating what colour to use
Do some testing on a junk kit or parts to see which color you like.
Oh gosh I want to do this but need to build a kit first.? I am returnee with a 40+ year gap, so much has changed!!
Bob
England
Glad to have you back! Many members in the model club I am in have come back after decades. Most of them catch up in just a few months and really build some amazing models in no time. The hobby is better than ever with the best kits I have ever seen and tons of supplies and tools.
@@StyreneModelersHaven I am seeing that big time however it’s also scary! Maybe I can’t do it to that level but I am would be gutted to just build them out the box……follow me?
Bob
@@BobMuir100 Join a model club either locally or online. Facebook has a ton of great model groups to join and most everyone is more than willing to help and offer advice. There is also so much great content on YT for tips and tricks. Just have fun and don't try and tackle too many techniques on each build. Pick 1-2 techniques to try on each build and grow your knowledge. In no time you will have mastered several techniques and each of your builds will just get better.
@darkwood777 thank you, so right!!
I know how you feel Bob, I had a 30-year gap (still had a stash but other hobbies had taken priority) seeing all the new weathering products and the aftermarket additions was very daunting. I decided to pick up some of the Airfix kits from Aldi last year and it was a nice cheap way to get back into the hobby. Even these entry models are much better to build than 30 years ago, go get some and enjoy.
Just saw this video and I wanted to thank you for taking the time to capture each step. Very informative and something I like to try someday and this will come in handy when that day comes. 🙂
Thank you for watching and glad you found it helpful! Please subscribe to my channel as I have more how to videos in the world.
That looks amazing! Awesome work. I wish I had more space in my apartment. I love building models but I don't have a place big enough to do so 😞
You can do it! Lots of people have small spaces they work in. I have seen many have a mobile setup using a tool box or fishing tackle box to hold all their tools. They setup on the kitchen table, hobby for a little while and then just pack it back for the next time. For painting you can do the same thing and just paint outside when its nice or near a window with a fan. There are YT videos on small setups for building models!
Can your apply 2 coats of ALLCLAD II ? My first coat didn't quite cover all the black.
Yes you can. Thin coats, light pressure.
This would be great for the DC-4 I have
Give it a try and please let me know of your results!
@2:43 Why do you call that Mr. color when it doesn't say Mr. Color anywhere on that bottle?
It is an older bottle made by Gunzye. Gunzye now calls it Mr color.
Fine job thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching. Please sub to my channel to see more great content when it drops.
@@StyreneModelersHaven sorry thought I did.
But I'm subscribed now.
Which airbrush gun are you using on this video (the black one)?
That is a Sotar 20/20 super fine detail airbrush. This: amzn.to/3yQtdo4
Subbed thanks.
What’s the final coat you use for bare Aluminium ? Semi gloss varnish?
Mine looks too dull with Matt over Vallejo silver base but too glossy with gloss varnish 😂
I use alclad clear base. It finishes the metal look in a satin gloss.
@@StyreneModelersHaven thanks bro
gah! I would not be able to do this without my mind breaking. looks good though!
Thanks for watching!
I had the tape issue on a P51 i was working on. Was frustrating me every time i painted another color over it. Nose color, tail color, ainti glare strip.
So once you vanish all the tape ghosting with the AK aluminum, then hit it with the base coat again, I should be good to paint the rest of the colors without the tape smoo showing back up then?
Exactly!
@@StyreneModelersHaven awesome! I threw the P51 on the shelf of shame. Once I'm done with my current build, I'll get it back down, strip the paint, and follow this method! Thanks! The videos are great!
Very inspiring !!! What metal shade / technique did you use to create a more matt look for the painted-fabric control surface ?
I used Alclads matt aluminum and I will also be applying a matt coat to the flaps as well at a later stage in the build.
@@StyreneModelersHaven THANKS
FAN-F*%&ING-TASTIC!!!! I'm ordering the supplies now. I've been waiting to get good at metalizer, or something, in order to build my B-17G. "My" '17 used to belong to the local museum when I was just a boy, as did I! I was furthermore lucky enough to help care for and ride the beautiful craft several times. But she ended up breaking my heart when she was sold after the museum folded😢. I've wanted to build a proper tribute to the bomber that seduced me into the world of flying. The kit has lived in my shop waiting for me to get the courage to start the project, as anything short of perfection simply wouldn't do justice to the immense love I have for "my" B-17G "Fuddy Duddy". RIP National Warplane Museum of Horseheads N.Y.
So glad it was helpful!
I'm about to do the same thing, I flew in her in the late 90's, ordered the decals, right now testing this NMF on a P-47, next up is the Fuddy Duddy!
Nice tutorial thx
Thanks for watching!
Great video.
Thank you! Please sub to my channel, I have more in the works.
@@StyreneModelersHaven I did, can't wait to see this one come together! Please subscribe to mine as well.
Will do!
Actually, the bare metal finish on aircraft because more commonplace near the end of WWII til the Vietnam Era. This was because aircraft-like the P-38 Lightning and the P-51 Mustang followed by the early jets became so fast that the paint kept peeling off the aircraft! It became a cost issue to keep repainting aircraft. The faster the planes became, the worse the problem got. Then, they developed epoxy-based paints that stayed on. The Airforce initially didn’t mind so much because they figured speed and, in the cases of the B-29, B-36, etc., altitude would keep their aircraft safe but Navy welcomed this solution because seawater and salt are corrosive to metals.
That's cool, just in time Tamiya P-38!
Thanks for watching! Be sure to subscribe to my channel, I am working on the next installment of the B-17 build and also working on how to paint checker tails and cowls!
If only there was an easy to apply, handle and mask realistic looking Chrome! Sadly I've not had much luck with either AK Extreme Metal Chrome, Alclad Chrome, or Molotow Liquid Chrome either straight from the pen or decanted and airbrushed...
Yeah, that is a tough one to work with.
Black bassing?😳
It's all about dat bass?😁
Jman
Nice one!
Model master can be polished to a shine then cleard.
Great tip! Thanks for sharing.
Okay. You need GX100 as a base coat. Spray GX100 thinned with some leveling thinner, then spray some pure leveling thinner before it driesl. A lot of your pictures show orange peel and garbage in your base coat. You have to polish that base gloss layer and clean it before you spray any metallic finish. I like a lacquer metallic topped with an acrylic gloss like Neo T-239 then VMS gloss. A gloss coat is gonna steal reflectivity away no matter what.
I would love to see a video of your process! Let me know when you post it.
mr.hobby has a flat clear similar to alclad
Thanks for the tip!
@@StyreneModelersHaven same. Thank you for your tutorial. Really helpful teaching about color variations.
sweet
Thanks!
Why did the other commercial interrupt this video?
UA-cam ad algorithm I guess.
Just an FYI, there is NO better tape than pinstriping tape for masking and especially areas on curves or uneven surfaces. Not only that it is way cheaper then modeler branded tape.
Great tip! Thank you.
Or just MRP over a gloss black and avoid all the faffing around?
I would love to see your technique. Please make a video and post it!
..в итоге- красивооо....
Thank you!
Can you say “Razor Crest”
Got one in the stash 😁
I thin my airbrush paints not as a ratio but as a consistency of milk.
It's a good starting point. Play with ratios to see different results.
Way too over complicated. I just sprayed a P-51 with Vallejo metallics. Simply primed and painted as I would any other model. Looks amazing. I even painted one wing gloss black before applying the metallic to see if it mattered. Didn’t make a difference. Way too much work for the end result.
Different approaches work for different people! Glad it worked out for you.
Im not convinced
More than one way to skin a cat. Do what works for you.
this is not easy bro lol too much work i'll just stick with rustolium or vallejo metal colors fast simple and easy
Would love to see a video of your process and results. If you have a better way, share it.
Holy grail of finishes? 🤣🤦♂
Are you serious?
Dude, it's a plastic model and you can paint it whatever color you want.
It's a challenge for many.
@@StyreneModelersHaven If you're not enjoying it, you're doing it wrong 😉
all the harsh language I can muster...
Lol!
Only one way to make "natural metal" is applying aluminium foil to your model.
Painting - is like you try to cheat YOURSELF with "natural metal".
Proof is easy: i
ntroduce me some good photos of models painting in your style
and some photos of models covered with real aluminium foil. The result: every modelist EASILY determine where is real aluminium cover and where is ridiculous imitation of "real metal" with expensive advertised paints.
We can really make this experiment.
So, I heil to believe your own eyes, and not believe to advertisement!
Using foil is a great way to do NMF but it is one of many great options.
Good stuff
Appreciate it!
No words - Just 😃😃😃
Thank you very much! Please sub to my channel as I have more how to vids in the works.
Looks really great! But I can't say this is "natural" metal finish, cause natural plane aluminium coverage is scratched and stressed. Your technique is closer to factory metal finish.
This was before the weathering process. Thanks for your comment.
El santo grial es el terminado cromo.espejo pulido al 0.0… .
Very true!