I like your tutorials very much. I'm 74 y/o in a few days but still learning new techniques thanks to people like you. Thank you! BTW, wartime P-51 wings were monotone silver. From IPMS Stockholm: "Despite the once widely-spread urban myth, high-performance US aircraft such as P-51 or P-38 were never finished entirely in bare metal. Aerodynamically important elements such as Mustang’s laminar-flow wing were puttied, sanded flush and then coated in aluminium lacquer."....but don't look so cool
I THANK You, for this posting of this video!! I will 'very likely' be using a different product, BUT the importance of SEALING the "metal paint" and the Importance applying tape to that 'Sealed' paint. I Especially like your End Results....it does look Damn Good!!
Great tutorial. If I can offer a suggestion: Avoid spraying towards the wing root and other corners as much as you can and point your airbrush from a different direction. You will get much less overspray drying on your paint and get a much smoother finish.
Ordered Hasegawas 1/72 AJ-37 Viggen Natural metal 2016 kit, still figuring out how im gonna do the paintjob but this video definitely helped! Thanks a ton
Thank you for this video! I'd tried a lot of things but just couldn't get the results I wanted... The gloss varnish layer in between the black and the grey coats did it for me... 🎉🌞
Hello Mate! I always enjoy your tutorials! I have a big problem with NMF methods.I tried the same way like you,but when I start to spray the GX2 the result always was a grainy or an orange skin like texture.I tried it in 50/50 more or less thinner,0,2 and 0,4 nozzle airbrush,high pressure(25 psi) or less but always was the same result.I am very disappointed.Do you have any useful tips in this problem?Because my brain now empty. Thank you bro!
Yes, unfortunately Testors no longer have this product for us. While I haven't tried it on a full NMF aircraft, tamiyas new LP series clear cotes seem to work good over metalizers. But i have only tried this combination on small details.
Don’t quote me on it, but I use Alclad II’s Clear Lacquer Gloss. Since they have a large variety of metalizer paints I would assume that the Clear Coat from them also work really well with sealing the Metalizers in.
I live in the US and love testors metalizer sealer and since it was discontinued I bought out hobby shops stock of 20 bottles that should last me!😁 Jman
It's more artists material. But occasionally I'll use modelers paint and industrial materials. Whatever it takes to duplicate the current finish. Everything except conversion varnish that is.
Thank you for making this informative video sir. For step 6 I do not have any metalizer solution, is it fine if a put a gloss coat instead. Will the results the the same? Thank You
Do you think, that the gloss black is necessary for example to apply on an MiG15 from the fifties? Bare metal planes from that area are no actual glossy racing Mustangs fom Reno... What do you think?
Yes, absolutely. The gloss black is responsible for the reflectivity not the sheen. You can dull it down later but will still have depth and reflection
@@MMScaleModels Ah, okay thx. One more question, you apply the clear cote before shading the model with other metalizers. Don't you think the AK metalizer is tough enough to stand the tape work without clear cote protection before?
Fantastic and educating video !!!! Please allow me to ask : when airbrushing lacquer gx2 over black matt lacquer primer doesnt exist the possibility the gx2 not to be so gloss blending with the primer because they are both hot lacquers using the same thinner ? Also at what psi you airbrush the primer/metallics ? Thanks in advance
That's actually the benefit of using hot paints, it will melt the top layer of the primer making it even smoother. I try to paint at the lowest pressure my airbrushes can handle. 0.7 -0.8 bar for the 0.25 airbrush. Metallics need thin layers so low and slow :)
So far I haven't found anything to match the performance of the metallizer sealer. In general laquer based varnishes work well but nothing close to the model master thing
My question is not really about the video but i really want to know if the ak real color aluminium is a good metallic paint or no and also your video are very helpful sometimes and im looking forward for future videos
Thanks mate! Try it. It's a bit tricky to lay down though. Really hard to see what's going on and usually if you see the clear coat building on the model it means that you are putting too much 😃
Hi, I haven't used anything else so I cannot speak from personal experience. Some say that Tamiya's new lacquer series work good... and obviously the alclad products.. but no personal experience.
Ok. Thank you so much for your help. I'm trying it out on a Mustang for my friend. Her grandfather worked on them in WW2. If it turns out I'll share the pictures with you.
@@MMScaleModels У вас очень крутые и познавательные видео. Только одно пожелание - чуть чуть поработать над акцентом, уж слишком он ярко выражен, тяжело воспринимается :) Спасибо за ваш труд!
@@MMScaleModels well i was sceptic at a first glance but compared to tamiya, its prethinned is cleaned with water really easily and gives a really good shine
Those paints are not suitable for brush painting. Probably there are others that can be brush painted but I am not familiar with brush painting nmf techniques.
0.8 to 1 bar. which is irrelevant because it depends on many things including your nozzle size. Just listen to your airbrush. It needs to have smooth flow.
Excellent looking metal finish. I am noticing that most UA-cam modelers are using a large variety of silver and water base b paints, lacquer washes etc. I find this to be too much paint on the average size model. It covers up a lot if detail and risk interacting with the plastic. I find less is better. On the very large scale you can maybe use more layering. Just my opinion, you build very good looking models.
Thanks, it looks like a lot of paint but it is not as the layers are very fine. Not talking only about the NMF presented in this video but in general. The key is to keep your paint layers as thin as possible.
@@MMScaleModels ah OK, I'm just nervous because I'm going to use a airbrush for the first time, and the model is so big and expensive, it's in 1/72 scale
Hi there, I don't think that acrylics can give you the same effect unfortunately. That's why I don't use them. There are simple solutions for the fumes, you need a window, PC Fan and an aspirator pipe.
I have a spraybooth, it’s just cold where I live this time of year, so I don’t want to open my window. I’ll try with the acrylic metallic paints first, to see how it looks, then lacquer/cellulose to compare. Another question, I imagine I should use Model Masters Sealer for Metalizers after applying decals, to seal them in.
@@raz562 You can try K colours, I was contacted by them some time ago and they claimed that their metalizers are almost as good as lacquers. On the other hand they wanted me not to compare their paints with laquers as it is "unfair" comparison. And yes MM sealer is your way to go till the end of the build.
I like your tutorials very much. I'm 74 y/o in a few days but still learning new techniques thanks to people like you. Thank you! BTW, wartime P-51 wings were monotone silver. From IPMS Stockholm: "Despite the once widely-spread urban myth, high-performance US aircraft such as P-51 or P-38 were never finished entirely in bare metal. Aerodynamically important elements such as Mustang’s laminar-flow wing were puttied, sanded flush and then coated in aluminium lacquer."....but don't look so cool
Yeah, sometimes accuracy gets sacrificed for aesthetic reasons... but that's OK IMO
One of best tutorials I've ever watched. It all works incredibly good in practice. Thanks for this!
Thanks mate, happy to see that this tutorial is helpful 👍
This is really great. Thank you for the clear instructions as always! I'm going to try out your techniques!
You are welcome, have fun 👍
excellent. yours is the only video on metalling that masks the individual panels which looks muck more authentic!
Thanks mate 👍 🍻
I THANK You, for this posting of this video!!
I will 'very likely' be using a different product, BUT the importance of SEALING the "metal paint" and the Importance applying tape to that 'Sealed' paint.
I Especially like your End Results....it does look Damn Good!!
You are welcome, happy to help :)
Great tutorial. If I can offer a suggestion: Avoid spraying towards the wing root and other corners as much as you can and point your airbrush from a different direction. You will get much less overspray drying on your paint and get a much smoother finish.
Thanks mate, nice tip
I just rubbed my Spitfire with alchohol and it didn't turn into a Mig-21 :-( ... Nice tutorial, thank you :-)
Try with some Tennessee stuff, it may work 😋 thanks mate 👍
Did you make sure that it's vodka?
You rubbed it the wrong direction.😁
😁
Ordered Hasegawas 1/72 AJ-37 Viggen Natural metal 2016 kit, still figuring out how im gonna do the paintjob but this video definitely helped! Thanks a ton
You are welcome 👍
Your English pronunciation is amazing. This is a separate genre. The tutorials aren't bad either. ))
Perfect tutorial! Informative and clear! Thanks!
PERFECT METAL FINISH !!!!
Thanks mate 👍
Excellent steps! Really useful about the black gloss might use that 👍🏻👍🏻
That's a key component 👍
Thank you for this video! I'd tried a lot of things but just couldn't get the results I wanted... The gloss varnish layer in between the black and the grey coats did it for me... 🎉🌞
Great, happy to help!
Excellent video, i didnt know about the gloss black?......thanks
Thanks, yes glass black is very important.
Spaciba!👍🏼🫵🏼🫡
👍
Hello Mate!
I always enjoy your tutorials!
I have a big problem with NMF methods.I tried the same way like you,but when I start to spray the GX2 the result always was a grainy or an orange skin like texture.I tried it in 50/50 more or less thinner,0,2 and 0,4 nozzle airbrush,high pressure(25 psi) or less but always was the same result.I am very disappointed.Do you have any useful tips in this problem?Because my brain now empty.
Thank you bro!
More thinner, less pressure. 50/50 is thick for this paint in my experience. And use mr. leveling thinner if possible.
Thank you very much!
Happy modelling!
Nice, but Testors discontinued its model master line of paints. Do you know other brands that make a similar Metalizer sealer or finish coat? Thanks
Yes, unfortunately Testors no longer have this product for us. While I haven't tried it on a full NMF aircraft, tamiyas new LP series clear cotes seem to work good over metalizers. But i have only tried this combination on small details.
Don’t quote me on it, but I use Alclad II’s Clear Lacquer Gloss. Since they have a large variety of metalizer paints I would assume that the Clear Coat from them also work really well with sealing the Metalizers in.
I live in the US and love testors metalizer sealer and since it was discontinued I bought out hobby shops stock of 20 bottles that should last me!😁
Jman
You did well, I had the chance here, a couple of years ago and missed it.
@@MMScaleModels if you do internet search theres still a few shops in US that have some dusty bottles like I found!👍
Jman
Hi, good Job. Btw, do you know if the Model Master Sealer fits also with other metalizers like Alclad or Xtreme Colours?
I think so, I have used it with alclad chrome for lexan and it worked good
@@MMScaleModels Ah, okay, thx.
Nice work and very informative.
Amen to the use of lacquer. 😁
Thanks mate, can't beat laquer especially for NMF
I restore antique gold and gold leaf picture frames for a living. Lacquer is about 75-80% of the job.
Do you use modeling paint or some more industrial materials?
It's more artists material. But occasionally I'll use modelers paint and industrial materials.
Whatever it takes to duplicate the current finish. Everything except conversion varnish that is.
@@jeffjames4064 I see, I am interested to know how much handling modeling paints/varnishes can survive.
Thank you for making this informative video sir. For step 6 I do not have any metalizer solution, is it fine if a put a gloss coat instead. Will the results the the same? Thank You
Depends on the varnish, many of them reduce the metallic sheen even if the varnish is gloss. It just has different sheen for some reason.
Could satin varnish work as I have seen a lot of people using it?
Красивая! Thanks for sharing this technique with us.
Thanks mate 👍
Do you think, that the gloss black is necessary for example to apply on an MiG15 from the fifties? Bare metal planes from that area are no actual glossy racing Mustangs fom Reno... What do you think?
Yes, absolutely. The gloss black is responsible for the reflectivity not the sheen. You can dull it down later but will still have depth and reflection
@@MMScaleModels Ah, okay thx. One more question, you apply the clear cote before shading the model with other metalizers. Don't you think the AK metalizer is tough enough to stand the tape work without clear cote protection before?
Excellent tutorial video.
Thank you👍
Thanks mate 👍
Fantastic and educating video !!!! Please allow me to ask : when airbrushing lacquer gx2 over black matt lacquer primer doesnt exist the possibility the gx2 not to be so gloss blending with the primer because they are both hot lacquers using the same thinner ? Also at what psi you airbrush the primer/metallics ? Thanks in advance
That's actually the benefit of using hot paints, it will melt the top layer of the primer making it even smoother. I try to paint at the lowest pressure my airbrushes can handle. 0.7 -0.8 bar for the 0.25 airbrush. Metallics need thin layers so low and slow :)
@@MMScaleModels I agree with that but wont reduce the glossiness of the gx2?
As far as I can tell no, its OK
Would you consider polish the black gloss base with the micromesh from alclad? Or does the base apply really smoothly?
If I need mirror like finish I would polish the base otherwise I think it is sufficient as it is.
Do you apply the polished aluminium paint without thinning?
Yes
You nailed that NMF for sure! Subscribed!
Thanks mate 👍
Learned the lessons in here the hard way. Second attempt on my P-51, had a great metal finish, but it peeled off after painting other colors.
Yes, I came to the conclusions in the video the hard way as well :)
@@MMScaleModels you should show your Problems so others can learn that even a master modeler has problems too.
What's a good alternative to metalizer sealer now that the entire Model Masters line has been discontinued?
Cannot tell, havent tried anything else on full nmf. I have used tamiya clears from the LP range with decent results on smaller details.
What do you recommend now that Model Master Metallic Sealer is no longer produced?
So far I haven't found anything to match the performance of the metallizer sealer. In general laquer based varnishes work well but nothing close to the model master thing
My question is not really about the video but i really want to know if the ak real color aluminium is a good metallic paint or no and also your video are very helpful sometimes and im looking forward for future videos
I haven't used ak real color so cannot tell you about that. AK extreme metals are excellent range and also tamiya's LP range is pretty good 👍
@@MMScaleModels THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR REPLYING
Very well explained!!!
Glad to hear that mate, thanks 👍
Very informative, thanks ☺️
Thanks mate🍻👍
What alternative is best now that Model Masters is no longer for sale!?
Cannot tell, still have some ModelMaster varnish to play with... then I will search :)
Excellent. Video. Thanks 👍👍👍👍
Thanks mate 🍻
A very useful tutorial. I'm going to try that Testors metallizer sealer.
Thanks mate! Try it. It's a bit tricky to lay down though. Really hard to see what's going on and usually if you see the clear coat building on the model it means that you are putting too much 😃
Hello, could you suggest something equivalent to Testors 1409? other brands...thanks
Hi, I haven't used anything else so I cannot speak from personal experience. Some say that Tamiya's new lacquer series work good... and obviously the alclad products.. but no personal experience.
Do you spray the metallizer directly out of the bottle or thin it?
Straight from the bottle.
Ok. Thank you so much for your help. I'm trying it out on a Mustang for my friend. Her grandfather worked on them in WW2. If it turns out I'll share the pictures with you.
My local shop no longer have Model master metal sealer anymore, may i ask for suggestion for some other similar product ?
So far I get good results using Tamiya LP series gloss varnish.
So, can I use a gloss varnish over the black coat if I don't have a gloss black?
Yes you can.. all you need is a gloss black surface doesn't matter how you achieve it
@@MMScaleModels thank you!
You are welcome 👍
What acrylic primer would you recommend? I have one from mig, but it makes surface grainy
The best acrylic primer is the one in the trash can. 😉
Step 6 is most interesting for me :)
😂 Yes its very good 😂
@@MMScaleModels У вас очень крутые и познавательные видео. Только одно пожелание - чуть чуть поработать над акцентом, уж слишком он ярко выражен, тяжело воспринимается :) Спасибо за ваш труд!
Thanks
What primer did he use? Lycra based hot primer?
I used mr.surfacer, I think it is nitrocellulose based.
Does alclad aqua gloss clear work as well as the testor one? Im really happy how it works on flat paint so would be great if it worked with those too
Haven't used alclad's varnish. It's milky appearance does not attract me at all. It may work just fine though :)
@@MMScaleModels well i was sceptic at a first glance but compared to tamiya, its prethinned is cleaned with water really easily and gives a really good shine
Do you thin the Mr. Surfacer 1500 when you spray it with the airbrush? IF so what do you thin it with?
Yes I thin it with Mr. Leveling thinner
@@MMScaleModels what are you ratios?
@@lgoldtop1 I start 50/50 and then adjust if necessary
Thank you soon I’m going to paint using Alclad exhaust
Have fun!
What airbrush are you using. Great video!! Keep them coming!!
Thanks Arnie. I use only Chinese airbrushes, Have 2 fengdas and a Veda.
Great video but what airbrush do you use?
Thanks mate. The airbrush in the video is Veda with 0.3mm nozzle. Its a inexpensive chinese brand.
Ok thanks👍
What scale model is the plane you're using?
1/72 mig-21 from Eduard
Fantástico! 👏
Thank you
Is it possible to do this with a brush? I only brush paint...
Those paints are not suitable for brush painting. Probably there are others that can be brush painted but I am not familiar with brush painting nmf techniques.
@@MMScaleModels thanks!
What airbrush PSI you use for primering?
0.8 to 1 bar. which is irrelevant because it depends on many things including your nozzle size. Just listen to your airbrush. It needs to have smooth flow.
@@MMScaleModels Thanks
Excellent looking metal finish. I am noticing that most UA-cam modelers are using a large variety of silver and water base b paints, lacquer washes etc. I find this to be too much paint on the average size model. It covers up a lot if detail and risk interacting with the plastic. I find less is better. On the very large scale you can maybe use more layering. Just my opinion, you build very good looking models.
Thanks, it looks like a lot of paint but it is not as the layers are very fine. Not talking only about the NMF presented in this video but in general. The key is to keep your paint layers as thin as possible.
Does this process change the color of the plastic
I am not sure what you mean but yes, its paint after all
Cool video my friend! Use Xtreme metal myself 👍
Thanks mate !
Skąd zamawiasz sealer testorsa?
It is available on Amazon or in hobby shops www.amazon.com/shop/mmscalemodels?listId=14HLFS3HE58M0
would i use the same method for a tu95?
I don't see why not
@@MMScaleModels ah OK, I'm just nervous because I'm going to use a airbrush for the first time, and the model is so big and expensive, it's in 1/72 scale
Well it's probably better to practice on something else until you get the feel for the airbrush.
@@MMScaleModels ah OK thanks
Do you know if acrylic metallic paints work just as good?
I wanna minimize the use of lacquer/cellulose paint in my apartment
Very nice models btw.
This video inspired me to make a 1/48th F-104
Hi there, I don't think that acrylics can give you the same effect unfortunately. That's why I don't use them. There are simple solutions for the fumes, you need a window, PC Fan and an aspirator pipe.
I have a spraybooth, it’s just cold where I live this time of year, so I don’t want to open my window.
I’ll try with the acrylic metallic paints first, to see how it looks, then lacquer/cellulose to compare.
Another question, I imagine I should use Model Masters Sealer for Metalizers after applying decals, to seal them in.
@@raz562 You can try K colours, I was contacted by them some time ago and they claimed that their metalizers are almost as good as lacquers. On the other hand they wanted me not to compare their paints with laquers as it is "unfair" comparison.
And yes MM sealer is your way to go till the end of the build.
thanks a lot... great video and tutorial ... hi from MEXICO !!!!
Thanks Jose, greetings 👍
Really good video, nice technique, well done!...Bill
Thanks Mate 👍
thia looks like it would be good for the CHROME effect being seen on stealth aircraft !
I tried something similar in my f-22 build. Didn't work the way I wanted it to but I have seen others do it successfully
@@MMScaleModels HAVE YOU SEENTHE NEW MIRROR/CHROME FINISH , also used on other fighters experimentally ?
Hi I always have problems with mr surfacer clogging the airbrush. Do you dilute it, and if so what do you use?
Hi, i always use mr. Leveling thinner.
can i ask what thinner you use for mr.color paints?
Hi, I use Mr. Leveling thinner
@@MMScaleModels thank you ,nice video by the way
Thanks mate!
Is Lacquer ?
Yes
Sadly out of date, Model Master Clear coat for metalizers is no longer available
Yeah, that's a shame.
👍🏻
Step 1. Monogram 1/48 scale B-58 scale model has entered the chat. Step 1 boss level on master game settings. You have been warned.
That's like painting the kitchen table... lots of area
@@MMScaleModels It's not that it's a kitchen table. It's got chair stuck to it's underside
Just a comment for the algorithm.
Ak extream metal paint is crap.
I strongly disagree
NINE steps aren't easy.
They are easy steps regardless
Акцент писец, невозможно смотреть.
You russian guys have big problem with my accent. There are subtitles available.