I'm a Japanese who started modeling recently. Since I am not good at English, subtitles are very helpful. Thank you for the video that I always use for reference! Channel registered
Great if masking. I hate masking canopies. But a year or so i discovered the tamiya flexible masking tape. Its a whitish color instead the yellow standard masking tape. Comes in different widths too. It works great for blown frameless canopies. Just 2 cents. Great tutorial video. Keep them coming.
I tried out your technique this morning and it was great! I used the precut masks that came with the kit but they were too long as I discovered after pulling them off. I used your technique and it worked out great! I was able to mask the outside windscreen in a few minutes so I thought I'd try the inside as well. Thank you for sharing your talents with us.
You can also do the lazy technique as follows. After masking the outside of the canopy apply a coat of the color you choose for the inside then apply another coat of paint the color of the outside. This technique saves you time and spares you the chore of masking and painting the inside of the canopy.
This is a tedious method but your results are excellent. Better than mine. I dip my clear parts in gloss clear (future floor polish works well) for a protective layer, then paint the frame as best I can. Using water based paint, I can scrape any blemishes using a toothpick. Works well for me so far.
Just catching up with your videos and you have sold me on the need to mask a canopy inside and out. I like the way your explanations make perfect sense and also thank you for speaking my language, your English is excellent. Thanks again.
Excellent tips, especially the one to cut the tape at an angle. One idea for interior that I got from another video: paint the top (outter) masked canopy with the colour of the cockpit, ie. light green. Let it dry then paint the exterior colour on top of the first colour. The cockpit colour will show on the inside. I will do this on my next model. My eyes and hands simply won't allow the level of work you do! 😁
Thanks mate, the issue that I have with only painting the outside frames with the interior color first is that they appear a bit distant from the internal surface and then the surface is super glossy.
Great video. Yes, 10 mins applying a single strand of tape will pay off a lot more with the time you will save fixing it but using another product that will supposedly do the whole part in 2 mins. Struggling a bit with masking some curved surfaces, not canopies and completely forgot the simple fact that wider tape is harder to contour to a curve. There are many, many options for hobby tape, especially Tamiya's flexible tape which is great, but I always like to have other options available so I don't come to a dead stop if I don't have my go-to product available. Except for certain applications like some bubble canopies or even wheels, I really don't use masking fluid much. I thought it was great when I first heard about it but quickly found out it is hard to get a clean cut, even with a sharp blade, and it requires a lot more pressure to cut, which can result in damage to the paint or even the model. Two thumbs up.
Thanks mate! I haven't used Tamiya's flexible tape yet so I can't give my opinion on that. There are different types of masking liquid. Some can be cut some cannot. My experience shows that the masking liquid is easier to remove when it is applied in thicker layer.
I use the White glue method of masking off the clear sections of canopies. White glue won't attack the plastic like some liquid masks do. But this is definitely a good alternative. Thanks for sharing.
I personally haven't had issues with masking fluids, but I have only used 2 brands. I've heard that the plastic used in some canopies is susceptible to damage from masking fluids rather than making fluids being generally aggressive. This is interesting topic and I would love to know more.
Can you explain what does it mean “white glue”? Is it PVA? Can you give some tips about your method? You scared me with chance to harm canopies with masks.
G'day MM, That's very impressive. I don't think I've got steady enough hands to manipulate the narrow masking tape but I'll give it a go.The commercial cockpit masks are way too expensive for what you get. You are right, sometimes they just don't fit the canopies they are supposed to fit. Just yesterday I purchased some masking liquid so it's great that I've now learned how to use it from an expert. Thank you! BH
Damn, that's awesomely skillful. I'd love to be able to use this technique, but I'll have to start cutting down on caffeine first. Thanks for the tutorials, learning a lot from you. Cheers.
Thank you for taking the time and trouble to make these brilliant videos, you have inspired me to get back into the modelling hobby again, once again... Thank you..
I have watched this video before but it is great to watch again, I can see one reason for masking the inside and paint, that would be to take away the unnatural gloss of the inside of the frame, still a very good video and great tips.Please keep safe and well.
Dude! Your videos are awesome! Thank you. I’m going to try the seat belt tutorial on my next airplane. Keep sending out the videos and I’ll keep waiting for them to watch.
Excellent video. This is the first thing I have encountered that has convinced me to try liquid mask. I will be try ing this method on my next aircraft kit, to be sure! Well done!
When I was much younger and still in possession of fine motor skills I prided myself on my ability to hand paint canopies and other various small parts. I thoroughly enjoyed it, but I can’t even see well enough up close to do it anymore, to say nothing of being able to make my hands work properly.
To add to this fine video.....Mix up a small amount of dish soap and water...Brush it on the canopy. The soap/water mixture allows you to slide the masking tape around a bit easier for better/easy placement. No hard and fast rule for the mixture....I usually use something like 80% (water) to 15-20% glue. This is almost a requirement when using after market canopy masks.
I've never considered painting the *interior* color as a base coat for the outside! I'll have to try that and see what it looks like from different angles.
Great video. Just masked a complex canopy which drove me insane. Looked on YT for a better way. Found your stuff. Thanks! I also love your positivity. :)
It is tricky indeed. It happened to me too. I do not know the answer unfortunately. I keep my bottle in a closet (no light), away from heat source, and always double check if the lid is closed properly after use. sometimes the threads can gumm up which may lead to poor seal.
While it may be a given for many modelers, a first step can be to clean the plastic (and with clear plastic to do it without making scratches) to remove any oils or contaminants including finger oils. And then to avoid touching the plastic with bare fingers after that.
@@MMScaleModels I often use just one glove. Especially if painting where I handle the part in the gloved hand and the airbrush with the ungloved hand. I find it makes holding and operting the airbrush more comfortable and I don't go through a box of gloves as fast. Either that, or I'm trying to channel Michael Jackson.
Hi There. I've just tried your masking technique over the weekend and I found it brilliant and rather easy, I wasn't brave enough to mask the inside the canopy but I'll certainly give it a go on my next build, I did have a little paint bleed as there was an area I didn't burnish down enough.So thank you for a really useful how to.
To prevent bleeding under the mask, don't ever let the paint pool. With the airbrush, press down for air, and then pull the trigger back a tiny bit, just enough that the frame very gradually acquires the desired color. Clean the nozzle often (with a Q-tip soaked in airbrush cleaner) to prevent dried paint from accumulating there. I do this after every 10 or 15 seconds of shooting, whether I think the nozzle needs it at that time or not! After each Q-tip treatment, make one or two airshots away from the model (without pulling back for any paint) to make sure that no cleaner gets spit into the model when you resume your painting.
I used to use clear plastic tape and a sharp knife to trim it off the areas to paint. Then I would spray zinc chromate first, then the aircraft color second. Worked fine.
@@MMScaleModels -- No. For some reason when you spray paint tape it doesn't seem to get sticky with plastic. Don't know why. And any residue that does occur can be cleaned with some alcohol. I've never had a problem. But you have to use clear plastic tape, not the magic tape that is kind of cloudy.
Great technique! With the more "traditional" methods, precision,and thus accurate results, are more difficult to obtain--frustrating! Thanx much for your video!
for the interior color on the canopy, I mask the outside and spray the cockpit interior color first... after that dries, i lay down the exterior color... once installed, the canopy has the interior color visible from the inside, and the exterior on the outside... just a different method for the same effect
I would argue the effect is not the same because you will still have the shiny plastic look on the inside and depending on the thickness of the canopy other distortion defects.
I am just a re-beginner after a stop of 35 years. This procedure seems easy enough to give a try (never done it before) How long in advance can you prepare this masking (tape and masking fluid) and leave it on the canopy after painting ? I want to avoid the risk that the mask really sticks and will damage during the removal. Cheers Rudy
i wonder how do you do masking for one side if its contured and other side as well.. imagine he cannopy nose of the plane, and its oval or something on both sides, to cut it similar for one side and other? ..how
@@MMScaleModels Thanks. Don't worry about idiots. Plenty around. Your work is excellent and seems as though your a cool dude too! Best wishes from Australia!!
Very nice tutorial on masking without pre cut mask so far....Im thinking also using some modeling clay and shape it according to where I needed to mask..but i fear the clay would leave some residue on the clear plastic parts.
As always, a wonderfully instructive video! One question I have is about the "beveling" at corners. You are laying down the thin tape with the sticky side down, of course. Then you reach the corner. If you bend the tape at a 45 degree angle to continue after the corner, the tape will now be with the sticky side UP, which of course will be a problem. I was not able to see clearly in the video how you managed to have the tape stay with the sticky side DOWN after the bevel. Can you explain this? (I just completed the masking and painting of a Kawasaki KI-100's canopy, and it came out great. But I had to cut the masking tape at every corner because I was not able to keep the tape's sticky side down if I simply folded it, and like you, I don't like the idea of making cuts with a sharp tool on a transparent canopy!)
Thanks, this is some packaging sponge... i think it was from a laptop battery I ordered some time ago... any sponge will work.... you can cut a piece of kitchen sponge and it will work just fine.
Nice vid, but have you ever tried masking with "Parafilm"? It's a much easier option: just stretch, lay over the surface, burnish down - using the heat of your fingers, or a warm cotton tip - and gently trim back with a sharp scalpel. Tamiya tape is just too prone to losing its' adhesion after manipulating it into position - and after burnishing - that causes the paint to run underneath. 👍
I am having that idea of parafilm since ages but it is not available here (afaik)... got to order some, looks like it is a useful product. In this case I used Lion Roar tape and it is rock solid... I only have the widest tamiya tape and I am not very happy with it, don't know if the others are the same.
@@MMScaleModels Try getting it on eBay or Amazon? It really is great stuff, and to "activate it" you have to pull it until it's really thin. When you do, it conforms to any complex surface or bends. I now use it more frequently than Tamiya tape, and I garuantee that once you start using it, you won't go back to any tapes. I also use it - in it's designed use - to seal my bottles of paint and thinners against evaporation. Best of luck!! 👍
@@MMScaleModels Yes - in that I lay Parafilm to overlap the area to be masked, and then VERY gently trim back with a sharp scalpel. This gives a "hard" demarcation line, unlike a "soft" one when using "sausages" of blue-tack. It's great to mask off panels: running a scalpel inside the the recessed panel line as a guide For trimming. For a "soft" demarcation line, I lay and press down a piece , or pieces, of Parafilm 3-4mm away from (and inside of) the "soft" demarcation I want. Then, I lay a piece, or pieces of Tamiya tape - again staying inside of the area I want masked - over the area to be covered. Lastly I then finish with a sausage of blue-tack to define the "soft" demarcation line I want. Parafilm will adhere to blue-tack, making the points of contact unusable because of the mixing of these different masking mediums. That's why in the above method I ensure that Tamiya tape separates the two. Also, once pressed down and stuck into place using the heat of your fingers, Parafilm is an inert product, and will stay put and won't come unstuck or move. I've come back, months later, to finish canopies and masked off areas of projects, and found the Parafilm still perfectly and solidly in place without affecting the underlying plastic or paint in any way (unlike Tamiya tape!!). Parafilm isn't affected by paints or gloss/matt coats either. Invariably the last thing I remove from my completed model (using a toothpick) is the Parafilm mask covering the canopy. No matter what paint, or how many coats have been applied, the Parafilm comes off leaving the canopy in pristine condition. It's great stuff, and is far cheaper and more versatile than tape. I hope you get some and start using it in future videos!! Cheers! 👍
@@idleonlooker1078 Hi, is it this one? Parafilm - HS234526A M Roll, 250' Length x 2" Width www.amazon.com/dp/B005KDF3X6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_717SFb1BEDQNA
I've tried this method and the hand paint / scrape with a dull toothpick - there is no substitute for careful tape + liquid masking. I can get close with the hand painting technique with the edges, however that isn't the problem - the inferior aspect of the hand painting is the fact that the solid struts are not airbrushed, and it just doesn't look as good.
Some people think this is going to far but if you want to do properly and see great results this way is brilliant. Thank you
Thanks for your feedback mate 👍
I'm a Japanese who started modeling recently.
Since I am not good at English, subtitles are very helpful.
Thank you for the video that I always use for reference!
Channel registered
Thanks, I hope that Google translated the subtitles adequately.
Top tips right there! I normally paint my frames by hand with a fine brush, but have masked on occasion
Once upon a time I tried brush painting the canopy but it did not work for me.
@@MMScaleModels What you're doing looks absolutely fantastic though :)
Great if masking. I hate masking canopies. But a year or so i discovered the tamiya flexible masking tape. Its a whitish color instead the yellow standard masking tape. Comes in different widths too. It works great for blown frameless canopies.
Just 2 cents.
Great tutorial video. Keep them coming.
Yeah, I tried that but its a bit thick for my taste. In any case everyone should use what works best in their case.
I tried out your technique this morning and it was great! I used the precut masks that came with the kit but they were too long as I discovered after pulling them off. I used your technique and it worked out great! I was able to mask the outside windscreen in a few minutes so I thought I'd try the inside as well. Thank you for sharing your talents with us.
Hey Brent, that's nice to read. It is really great to know that my videos help. Thanks for sharing.
You can also do the lazy technique as follows. After masking the outside of the canopy apply a coat of the color you choose for the inside then apply another coat of paint the color of the outside. This technique saves you time and spares you the chore of masking and painting the inside of the canopy.
'Speed rarely achieves quality.' Amen to that.
Amen brother!
After watching two of your videos in a row I instantly subscribed, these a great tutorials with no excess bs.
Thanks and welcome aboard!
@@MMScaleModels I just finished my first model in several years and thanks to your tips it looks pretty dang good.
This is a great tutorial, I've come back to it several times over the years and find your method gives far superior results to pre-cut masks.
Glad ot works for you 👍
This is a tedious method but your results are excellent. Better than mine. I dip my clear parts in gloss clear (future floor polish works well) for a protective layer, then paint the frame as best I can. Using water based paint, I can scrape any blemishes using a toothpick. Works well for me so far.
Whatever works best for you mate, that's the most important thing.
Just catching up with your videos and you have sold me on the need to mask a canopy inside and out. I like the way your explanations make perfect sense and also thank you for speaking my language, your English is excellent. Thanks again.
Thanks for your feedback mate, appreciated 👍
Excellent tips, especially the one to cut the tape at an angle. One idea for interior that I got from another video: paint the top (outter) masked canopy with the colour of the cockpit, ie. light green. Let it dry then paint the exterior colour on top of the first colour. The cockpit colour will show on the inside. I will do this on my next model. My eyes and hands simply won't allow the level of work you do! 😁
Thanks mate, the issue that I have with only painting the outside frames with the interior color first is that they appear a bit distant from the internal surface and then the surface is super glossy.
Great video mate, thank you! I really struggle to get liquid mask to sit properly, and never thought to use it in conjunction with tape!
It works vice-versa as well. The liquid mask prevents the lifting of the tape to some extent.
Great idea! This way you can press it in place much easier with the tip of a toothpick.
Yes it is much more precise and easy than one big sheet of mask.
Well explained, I do it almost as you do. Interesting the idea with the handle.
Thanks mate 👍🍻
Great video. Yes, 10 mins applying a single strand of tape will pay off a lot more with the time you will save fixing it but using another product that will supposedly do the whole part in 2 mins. Struggling a bit with masking some curved surfaces, not canopies and completely forgot the simple fact that wider tape is harder to contour to a curve. There are many, many options for hobby tape, especially Tamiya's flexible tape which is great, but I always like to have other options available so I don't come to a dead stop if I don't have my go-to product available.
Except for certain applications like some bubble canopies or even wheels, I really don't use masking fluid much. I thought it was great when I first heard about it but quickly found out it is hard to get a clean cut, even with a sharp blade, and it requires a lot more pressure to cut, which can result in damage to the paint or even the model. Two thumbs up.
Thanks mate!
I haven't used Tamiya's flexible tape yet so I can't give my opinion on that.
There are different types of masking liquid. Some can be cut some cannot. My experience shows that the masking liquid is easier to remove when it is applied in thicker layer.
I use the White glue method of masking off the clear sections of canopies. White glue won't attack the plastic like some liquid masks do. But this is definitely a good alternative. Thanks for sharing.
I personally haven't had issues with masking fluids, but I have only used 2 brands. I've heard that the plastic used in some canopies is susceptible to damage from masking fluids rather than making fluids being generally aggressive. This is interesting topic and I would love to know more.
@@MMScaleModels what kind of masking fluids do you use? What’s a full name and brand?
Can you explain what does it mean “white glue”? Is it PVA? Can you give some tips about your method? You scared me with chance to harm canopies with masks.
I use mr. Masking sol neo from mr.hobby
Yes it's PVA, damage from masking fluid seems to be very rare so don't be putt off
Finalmente un VERO tutorial fatto da un bravissimo modellista!
Thanks for the kind words 👍
Great technique and Video. Also your tutorial on making seatbelts.
Thank you for sharing.
Hope they are useful
Ive tried the paint on mask before didnt like the result but now seeing your method im gonna give ut another tru on my 124th hurricane thanks
I am sure You will have good results!
This is the most frustrating part about model-making thank you for this great tip
Thanks for watching mate, when I became comfortable doing the masking i kinda started enjoying it.
G'day MM, That's very impressive. I don't think I've got steady enough hands to manipulate the narrow masking tape but I'll give it a go.The commercial cockpit masks are way too expensive for what you get. You are right, sometimes they just don't fit the canopies they are supposed to fit.
Just yesterday I purchased some masking liquid so it's great that I've now learned how to use it from an expert. Thank you! BH
Hi Bill, thanks. It is worth the try, besides the tape is fairly easy to reposition so i guess a bit of shakiness cannot be a big issue.
Damn, that's awesomely skillful. I'd love to be able to use this technique, but I'll have to start cutting down on caffeine first. Thanks for the tutorials, learning a lot from you.
Cheers.
You are welcome 👍
Thank you for taking the time and trouble to make these brilliant videos, you have inspired me to get back into the modelling hobby again, once again... Thank you..
Thanks Jack, that's probably the best thing i can see in a comment. TBH i feel proud 🙂. Welcome back to the hobby!
After trying different techniques, this one is definitely the best... Thank you ! 🙏
Thanks mate, I hope it helps!
Thank you for this video. Even though it takes some time, the effort is worth it for a good result.
That's almost always the case isn't it 😄
Best masking tute I've seen so far.
Thanks mate!
I have watched this video before but it is great to watch again, I can see one reason for masking the inside and paint, that would be to take away the unnatural gloss of the inside of the frame, still a very good video and great tips.Please keep safe and well.
Thanks for watching!
Dude! Your videos are awesome! Thank you. I’m going to try the seat belt tutorial on my next airplane. Keep sending out the videos and I’ll keep waiting for them to watch.
Awesome! Thank you!
Thanks for your tips. I've learnt something new that I will try. And will have water close handy with the liquid mask.
Thanks for watching mate 👍
Excellent video. This is the first thing I have encountered that has convinced me to try liquid mask. I will be try ing this method on my next aircraft kit, to be sure!
Well done!
Thanks mate, masking liquid is quite an interesting tool that may have lots of applications. I find it very useful.
Thank you - these are really useful tips. Canopy masking is one task I really don't like but it makes such a big difference to a kit.
Thanks for watching mate, love your F1 builds :)
When I was much younger and still in possession of fine motor skills I prided myself on my ability to hand paint canopies and other various small parts. I thoroughly enjoyed it, but I can’t even see well enough up close to do it anymore, to say nothing of being able to make my hands work properly.
Its a preference thing I guess. Mine is to airbrush as much details as possible and keep brush painting to a minimum.
Very nice, great job, incredibly smart and inventive.
Thanks mate 👍
I use a type of "Flat head stick" too. Tip: Old paintbrushes work great. Just trim off the bristle end and cut to shape.
Good tip mate 👍
I've ordered Mr. Masking Sol today so I can try this. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching mate 👍
Crisp edges! thank you for the tips
You are welcome! Thanks for watching :)
To add to this fine video.....Mix up a small amount of dish soap and water...Brush it on the canopy. The soap/water mixture allows you to slide the masking tape around a bit easier for better/easy placement. No hard and fast rule for the mixture....I usually use something like 80% (water) to 15-20% glue. This is almost a requirement when using after market canopy masks.
Thanks Dave, very interesting tip. I will definitely try this. 👍
That is amazing. Thank you so much for showing us this technique bro.
You are welcome!
I've never considered painting the *interior* color as a base coat for the outside! I'll have to try that and see what it looks like from different angles.
If the inside is unpainted it looks a bit odd because it is super glossy.
You have the best videos.....thank you for sharing your tips and products.
Thanks mate, appreciated 👍
Bro your technique is lit! Subscribed
Thank you and welcome aboard!
Excellent method
Yup, works very well 👌
Nice technique,,well worth the effort,,
Thanks mate 👍
Nice work, I enjoyed your choice of music too. Thanks for your videos.
Thanks for watching mate 👍
Nice. Thanks a lot.
Thanks mate 👍
Awesome demo, and excellent tips! Thanks for posting.
Thanks for watching mate 👍
Gracias por compartir tus excelentes tecnicas!
You are welcome 👍
Awesome video! Thank you! I've learned so much from your videos. I owe you big time! Keep them coming!
Thanks mate, I am really happy to know that people appreciate my efforts.
Great advice, many thanks and best wishes.
Thanks mate, best 👍
Parafilm is something I have used for masking and it's interesting to use. Easy to cut. Will stick to the plastic no problem. Easy to remove too.
Have to try that out.
Well done!
Thanks mate 👍
Cool 👍. Thank you for showing
Thanks for watching!
Great tips...thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Very helpful video, thank you 👍🏻
Very happy to know, thank you 👍
Great video. Just masked a complex canopy which drove me insane. Looked on YT for a better way. Found your stuff. Thanks! I also love your positivity. :)
Thanks mate, i have one more tutorial on masking canopies so you might find something usefull there as well.
@@MMScaleModels I will check it out
Glad I found this video. Very good tips and method.
Thanks for watching mate 👍🍻
Very smart, and informative
Thanks, guy 😎👍🏻
You are welcome 👍
very informative. thanks
You are welcome 👍
Thank you! you help me so much!!
You are so welcome!
Love it. Keep it coming. Easy stuff to follow
Glad to hear that mate 👍
very good demo! useful tip indeed! Thanks!
Thanks for watching mate 👍
thank you for this clear and very instructive tutorial :)
Glad it was helpful!
Good tutorial, Thanks a lot for share it
You are welcome
Absolutely!!! Quality takes time.
Indeed it does
tricky question - how to preserve liquid masks from drying? I already have two dried bottles, one wasn't even opened... :/
It is tricky indeed. It happened to me too. I do not know the answer unfortunately. I keep my bottle in a closet (no light), away from heat source, and always double check if the lid is closed properly after use. sometimes the threads can gumm up which may lead to poor seal.
Good tutorial. I wasn't sure about masking the inside but your technique seems to work quite well. Thanks for doing this. Cheers!
It is quite easy once you get the feel of it. And for me, painting the internal part is the way to go, especially for 1/48 and larger.
Yes in 48th scale and larger I can see that it would.👍🏻
While it may be a given for many modelers, a first step can be to clean the plastic (and with clear plastic to do it without making scratches) to remove any oils or contaminants including finger oils. And then to avoid touching the plastic with bare fingers after that.
Yup, i almost always use gloves
@@MMScaleModels I often use just one glove. Especially if painting where I handle the part in the gloved hand and the airbrush with the ungloved hand. I find it makes holding and operting the airbrush more comfortable and I don't go through a box of gloves as fast. Either that, or I'm trying to channel Michael Jackson.
Oh wow that solved a couple of problems I'm having! 🥳
Great 👍
This is how a tutorial is done. Thanks!
Thanks mate 👍🍻
Very good.
Many many thanks
Thank you for the tutorial, I believe we can only use acrylic paint for the canopy frames? As enamel & lacquer paint will damage the canopy, correct?
I use almost exclusively lacquer. But it should, under no circumstances, end up on the transparent parts. Hence the whole masking ordeal.
Nice tutorial and awesome result. This is worth an Abo.
Thanks mate 👍🍻
Thank’s for the tip of the handle! Great
Welcome and thanks for your comment 👍
Ill use this methot with the thin strips and use mascol 👍🏻
Hi There. I've just tried your masking technique over the weekend and I found it brilliant and rather easy, I wasn't brave enough to mask the inside the canopy but I'll certainly give it a go on my next build, I did have a little paint bleed as there was an area I didn't burnish down enough.So thank you for a really useful how to.
Glad it helped and thanks for sharing your experience!
To prevent bleeding under the mask, don't ever let the paint pool. With the airbrush, press down for air, and then pull the trigger back a tiny bit, just enough that the frame very gradually acquires the desired color. Clean the nozzle often (with a Q-tip soaked in airbrush cleaner) to prevent dried paint from accumulating there. I do this after every 10 or 15 seconds of shooting, whether I think the nozzle needs it at that time or not! After each Q-tip treatment, make one or two airshots away from the model (without pulling back for any paint) to make sure that no cleaner gets spit into the model when you resume your painting.
Great Job👍
Thanks mate!
Good tip! Good job! I’ll try using liquid mask. Thank you! 👍👏
Thanks for watching mate!
I used to use clear plastic tape and a sharp knife to trim it off the areas to paint. Then I would spray zinc chromate first, then the aircraft color second. Worked fine.
Doesn't that tape leave residue?
@@MMScaleModels -- No. For some reason when you spray paint tape it doesn't seem to get sticky with plastic. Don't know why. And any residue that does occur can be cleaned with some alcohol. I've never had a problem. But you have to use clear plastic tape, not the magic tape that is kind of cloudy.
I see, have to try that on some scrap canopy.
Great video!! Keep then coming and thank you very much.
Thanks for watching mate 🍻👍
Thanks for your great tips ☺️!
Glad you like them!
Thank You for this video. Great quality
Thanks mate 🍻👍
Great technique! With the more "traditional" methods, precision,and thus accurate results, are more difficult to obtain--frustrating! Thanx much for your video!
Yes that's true, and it does not take that much longer on most aircraft.
Dude you're the best
Thanks for your kind words :)
once again great video and awsome tips
Thanks mate 👍🍻
for the interior color on the canopy, I mask the outside and spray the cockpit interior color first... after that dries, i lay down the exterior color... once installed, the canopy has the interior color visible from the inside, and the exterior on the outside...
just a different method for the same effect
I would argue the effect is not the same because you will still have the shiny plastic look on the inside and depending on the thickness of the canopy other distortion defects.
Based on scale, I agree... I just started strips with masking fluid the day before I saw this video
Thanks for the most excellent channel!
I am just a re-beginner after a stop of 35 years. This procedure seems easy enough to give a try (never done it before)
How long in advance can you prepare this masking (tape and masking fluid) and leave it on the canopy after painting ?
I want to avoid the risk that the mask really sticks and will damage during the removal.
Cheers
Rudy
Isn't there a stretchy tape available for masking?
Something like electrical tape but with perhaps thinner, with a more adequate adhesive composition?
Tamiya offers tape for curves but it's not that much better... I cut it in thinner strips as well
Great information. Thank you. Subbed.
Awesome, thank you!
i wonder how do you do masking for one side if its contured and other side as well.. imagine he cannopy nose of the plane, and its oval or something on both sides, to cut it similar for one side and other? ..how
Do you mean for the interior or the exterior?
Genial Consejo! Gracias!
Best method I've seen so far.
Any tips for 1/72?
Some magnification probably :)
A new sub from me because of..
(a) Your accent. AWESOME!!!!
(b) Your attention to detail is to be applauded.
Great video!!
Thanks Robbie, welcome aboard.
My accent seem to bother certain people, it is nice to know that there are people that like it as well 😁
@@MMScaleModels Thanks. Don't worry about idiots. Plenty around. Your work is excellent and seems as though your a cool dude too!
Best wishes from Australia!!
@@robbieh1899 Thanks mate, greetings from Bulgaria 🍻
Very nice tutorial on masking without pre cut mask so far....Im thinking also using some modeling clay and shape it according to where I needed to mask..but i fear the clay would leave some residue on the clear plastic parts.
It's very possible
Can I remove a masked canopy that has PVA glue as an adhesive to tempary hold it to fuselage during painting
I do that frequently. Just be careful on removal.
As always, a wonderfully instructive video! One question I have is about the "beveling" at corners. You are laying down the thin tape with the sticky side down, of course. Then you reach the corner. If you bend the tape at a 45 degree angle to continue after the corner, the tape will now be with the sticky side UP, which of course will be a problem. I was not able to see clearly in the video how you managed to have the tape stay with the sticky side DOWN after the bevel. Can you explain this?
(I just completed the masking and painting of a Kawasaki KI-100's canopy, and it came out great. But I had to cut the masking tape at every corner because I was not able to keep the tape's sticky side down if I simply folded it, and like you, I don't like the idea of making cuts with a sharp tool on a transparent canopy!)
I am not twisting the tape, just bending it. The sticky side is always towards the part.
Great tips. Thank you for sharing. What king of sponge are you using to hold it?
Thanks, this is some packaging sponge... i think it was from a laptop battery I ordered some time ago... any sponge will work.... you can cut a piece of kitchen sponge and it will work just fine.
Good tutorial! Thank you
Thanks for watching mate 👍🍻
Nice vid, but have you ever tried masking with "Parafilm"? It's a much easier option: just stretch, lay over the surface, burnish down - using the heat of your fingers, or a warm cotton tip - and gently trim back with a sharp scalpel.
Tamiya tape is just too prone to losing its' adhesion after manipulating it into position - and after burnishing - that causes the paint to run underneath. 👍
I am having that idea of parafilm since ages but it is not available here (afaik)... got to order some, looks like it is a useful product.
In this case I used Lion Roar tape and it is rock solid... I only have the widest tamiya tape and I am not very happy with it, don't know if the others are the same.
@@MMScaleModels Try getting it on eBay or Amazon? It really is great stuff, and to "activate it" you have to pull it until it's really thin. When you do, it conforms to any complex surface or bends. I now use it more frequently than Tamiya tape, and I garuantee that once you start using it, you won't go back to any tapes. I also use it - in it's designed use - to seal my bottles of paint and thinners against evaporation. Best of luck!! 👍
Thanks mate, can it be used as camo mask, I mean can you cut it to shape before you apply it to the model?
@@MMScaleModels Yes - in that I lay Parafilm to overlap the area to be masked, and then VERY gently trim back with a sharp scalpel. This gives a "hard" demarcation line, unlike a "soft" one when using "sausages" of blue-tack. It's great to mask off panels: running a scalpel inside the the recessed panel line as a guide For trimming.
For a "soft" demarcation line, I lay and press down a piece , or pieces, of Parafilm 3-4mm away from (and inside of) the "soft" demarcation I want. Then, I lay a piece, or pieces of Tamiya tape - again staying inside of the area I want masked - over the area to be covered. Lastly I then finish with a sausage of blue-tack to define the "soft" demarcation line I want.
Parafilm will adhere to blue-tack, making the points of contact unusable because of the mixing of these different masking mediums. That's why in the above method I ensure that Tamiya tape separates the two.
Also, once pressed down and stuck into place using the heat of your fingers, Parafilm is an inert product, and will stay put and won't come unstuck or move. I've come back, months later, to finish canopies and masked off areas of projects, and found the Parafilm still perfectly and solidly in place without affecting the underlying plastic or paint in any way (unlike Tamiya tape!!). Parafilm isn't affected by paints or gloss/matt coats either. Invariably the last thing I remove from my completed model (using a toothpick) is the Parafilm mask covering the canopy. No matter what paint, or how many coats have been applied, the Parafilm comes off leaving the canopy in pristine condition.
It's great stuff, and is far cheaper and more versatile than tape. I hope you get some and start using it in future videos!! Cheers! 👍
@@idleonlooker1078 Hi, is it this one?
Parafilm - HS234526A M Roll, 250' Length x 2" Width www.amazon.com/dp/B005KDF3X6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_717SFb1BEDQNA
I've tried this method and the hand paint / scrape with a dull toothpick - there is no substitute for careful tape + liquid masking. I can get close with the hand painting technique with the edges, however that isn't the problem - the inferior aspect of the hand painting is the fact that the solid struts are not airbrushed, and it just doesn't look as good.
I agree, and all things considered it is much faster to get a good result with the airbrush.
i also do that method, time consuming but rewarding results
Indeed