I'm returning to modeling after an absence of 42 years--I'm now retired. Part of my career was as a technical trainer (electronics, computers, s/w, processes), and this session is close to being a masterpiece. I learned so much about a topic where my knowledge and skills are literally at zero. Broad expanses of armor, wings, and hulls are a piece of cake, but this stuff is a true art form, and I feel blessed by the skill level you bring to the subject. Your knowledge is excellent, but your presentation skills, especially with commentary, are outstanding. I had a little difficulty with the accent at first, but caught on quickly, and I liked this whole segment so much I had my wife watch it just for the sheer entertainment value, and even SHE loved it! Kind of like the first time I heard Led Zeppelin in 1968. I'm a fan!!! It comes across as a true labor of love Mr. Kovac!
ha ha right on. I cant draw or free hand / paint canvas at all but for some reason I can do models decent and im learning faster and getting better at then I thought I would. Because in life im a slow learner witch surprised me. It gets even funner the more you do it thus the better you get. I paint warhammer 40k myself but Im a history nerd so id love to do some tanks down the road. After the Ukraine counter offensive mybie a challenger 2 or leapord we will have to see ! Enjoy your retire ment 42 year is a hudge tour lol
Really well said, I am retired and more into historical or fantasy dioramas in 1:18th scale but don't have years of miniature painting experience. I can do horses because I spent much of my life around them, drawing them and collecting and painting models of them but, the human face is just impossible, so I am eager to try this method.
As a recently reborn modeler, I echo your comments entirely. Just started my first kit this century (literally). I wasn't going to include any figures, but seeing this makes me think I could give it a whirl.
After many minis painting tutorials watched, I must admit this is one of the best and most pleasurable. I like the way you talk on the video. It has some storytelling in it. "Let's go on painting adventure. 12 minutes. You and me. No risk man, just fun"
With regards to the zenithal highlight technique, I've found that using a very dark brown/coffee base coat and an eggshell/cotton highlight coat helps with the starkness of the effect. Essentially, it gives yo a warmer base to work with which makes both cloth (particularly what is supposed to be natural fibers) and skin look less dead.
I agree. I find the best colour for the base coat is simply a darker version of whatever the glaze/filter would be (so in this case, it would be a dark olive) and not actual black. As usual though, I can't argue with the results that Martin gets! :-)
I can see how that would be ideal, but using black and white primers is probably quicker and more efficient than specifically finding fitting primers for every single unique figure...
@@Armo1997 you do not need to look for matching primer just add additional cover with darker base colour (e.g. base colour with black) and do the zenithal highlight with white/ white tinted with base colour. I do not think it is much more effort. Nevertheless, you may use it only for faces to remove the "sicknes" just use dark skin tone for a whole batch of heads in your army:) additionally drybrushing hairs is great way to highlight them effectively.
I love how dynamical your work, and your channel is. You go all the way from spending 70hrs on chipping Tiger to basically speedpainting minis. Amazing that each of your models is not just "another one" but rather a journey to try and teach completely new techniques.
As a long-time minature painter, I recommend switching out the Tamiya flat white for a white acrylic ink. It will reduce speckling dramatically. I'm not a great airbrush painter, so I use it thinned 50:50 to be more forgiving, but that is not necessary.
I've found the opposite to be better and sticking with flat white thinning flat white 1:8 thinner at 28psi/1.8bar. The ink is too glossy which doesn't help with paint adhesion and doesn't build up as smooth a transition.
Gosh, If you ever do a diorama for this thing, I just feel it would fit best on a slope in a tall grass field, ever since the start of this build and seeing the turret so far tilted up I could just picture it. Doing something like a tall grass field would be a joy to see you figure out, as I've always wanted to do one of my own, and I really feel it would be an awesome change of pace.
I would like to thank you, for showing us this method. Tried it today, and it worked pretty well. Never would have dared to paint in this way, but the result is surprising and looks very good. Greetings from Belgium and thx for all your tutorials!
As a modeler that just started into this hobby about 6 months ago and started with planes, I out of my zone and started on some armor. Night Shift has taught me a ton and this video was very informative for me in learning the miniature side of the hobby. Thanks again and what great work this is. All your videos are awesome.
Yes, this is the method I use on every one of my figures. One of the major benefits (apart from the simplicity) is the finish is VERY matt, on account of the glaze/filter being just a diluted watery wash. There's no need to try and blast the figure into "matt-ness" with a flat coat at the end. The white highlight spray should be heavily thinned, too. Anyway, great video, as always! :)
@liamfarnell6638 Just very thin paint. I just mix it with water, though some people use a purpose-made glaze medium (available from Vallejo, Ammo, AK etc). I find water works fine though. This is assuming you're using acrylics, of course. For an oil or enamel glaze, use thinners.
I’m a figure painter 99% of the time but follow you. One thing I see that armour modellers forget when adding figures is that the shadow areas on each figure is individual. So there have bee tanks with crew gathered around ALL with the highlights in the same place per figure and NOT how light would strike each one differently. Think of the 5 on a dice, light coming at 45 degrees would hit differing sides if the 4 outer figures were all looking at the centre. 👍🏽
That`s so amazing - I never thought about a black basic colour, before I started watching your videos. But concerning a "fake shadow" in areas, where one might miss some colour when paintig a model, this was the best idea ever. Thank you very much for this!
Vallejo air are great (and extremely cheap) colors to thin down for glazing. Using a glaze medium instead of water is also very good. If you want really vivid colors you can use Games Workshops contrast paints (stupid expensive) in a thin layer (or straight from the can if that's the result you're looking for) and if you're advanced you can use other colors than black/white to glaze over. And if you're really really advanced you can mix metals into your glazes and get cool results. If you want more advanced underpainting you can wash, drybrush, highlight or even weather your sketch before glazing it. Or between layers of glaze. You made a great figure. It's a definate yay from here. Good and patient job as always.
Thank you for this video I'm going to be working on my 1/32 scale He-219 and I have a resin maintenance crew, aircraft crew, and weapons loaders and this will definitely come in handy when I paint them
Hard to argue with these results. They speak for themselves. Ive been doing a 3 step zenithal (B/G/W). And while this helps get an smoother transition (less speckling), I really like your White over Black for higher contrast. This is basically a sketch prime for values and it really works with the glazing. I will be trying this out. Love this video. Thank you.
Nice video Martin. Yes glazing is a great way to go. Keeping that preshade is key to achieving good results. Lots of layers to blend those transitions. Great stuff!
I've watched uploads from many very talented modellers and their subjects be they tanks, aircraft or buildings are magnificent but they let themselves down with human figures. They always seem to be overdone with heavy shading particularly on faces making them almost cartoonish. You have no such problem! That figure is a sheer delight to see.👍
Hey thank you!!! This is a hobby I am just starting to get into and have been a bit disappointed with my first few efforts. Going to give this a try with my next set of minis. The comments from everyone, also very helpful. Thanks folks....
Amazing how I just started buying figures for upcoming dioramas, and rewatched older videos of your figures… just for this video to come out today. Wonderful work! Glazing method seems to give the most control with the best outcome.
Great tip, thank you for that movie. You can also use Glaze Medium to dilute the main paint, It will of course cause the paint will dry much slower, but is also eliminating "water" tension and will not allow to accumulate paint in drop shadow areas.
Awesome. I was also aware of zenithal highlighting, and props to you Martin for making the jump from table-top to scale models. The process you’re using here make such sense, and whilst I’ve done the thinning/glazing thing, it’s only when you said ‘yo, it’s a filter’ did it click. Can’t wait to try this on my Brit RAC figures i got for my Border Model’s Crusader diorama. Thanks so much! By way of helping, I’d recommend looking up Squidmar’s video on using wet palettes. He talks about ‘loading’ the brush correctly for highlighting, and once you see what he’s talking about, it really helps with the whole ‘tide mark/brush stroke’ thing. Great stuff Uncle!
Awesome video and a great use of the highlighting technique. The mini-painting folks often call this a 'zenithal' highlight, but it was definitely surprising to learn as an armour modeller making the shift into mini-painting. After some experimentation, I find that with faces, in particular, it can be useful to put them on an armature and eschew the white/black to instead use flesh tones in the same approach - I usually vary this a little as humans get suntanned skin where exposed to sun if exposed to sun frequently; clothing does not share this trait. Similarly, I find that varying the type of white you use for the highlight spray from pure white to various sorts of off-whites allows you to create cool or warm highlights in addition to providing the same benefits as the pure white. Some glaze colours do better over a yellow highlight spray (red, orange).
This technique gives great results and seems easy to master, something good for the average modeler. I sometimes use a similar technique, utilizing glazes to soften the shadows and hilights on the figure. Excellent video, thanks for sharing! 👍
Fantastic Tutorial🏆🏆🏆! I’ve known about this technique for years and have always used it, but your thinning of the paints like you showed is the key as well as the use of flow retardant. Patience and practice are the key to any of our skills, but this just re-enforces what can be done with a simple change. Very well done and thanks…
Looking forward to traying this method. It will be my first try at a 1/35 scale figure - or any figure, for that matter. Thanks for the detailed tutorial.
fantastic results! I'm going to paint my Imperial Guard using these techniques someday, but if you want to beat me to the punch, I would definitely watch a video of you painting a squad or a IG tank (if you're into WH40K). This is way better than having to use 30 colors of paint to get roughly the same result and minimal blending required! Great job!
This looks great! I think that this face may be the best one you have made yet! The tanker looks amazing standing on the tank, the uniform green looks terrific!
Trying this out right now on the aircrew for my 1/48 diorama and so far I like it. Only put on two coats so far, but the zenital shading is still showing through and if I can get them somewhere close to this, I’ll be stoked.
Martin, thank you so much for this. I know there are a multitude of other channels etc dedicated to figure painting but, I never been able to"get it". Watching this today domething finally clicked and tonight I've tried this out on a couple of figures. I'm only 3 filter/glazes in and already there's an appreciable improvement in my figures. Thanks again.
Definitely yay! Darn that looks good. I'm looking at it mostly from lotr/warhammer figures perspective and it looks waay better than most techniques I've seen. Sure it can't be applied to everything, but all the textiles easily. Gotta try it, it really gives it that nice realistic shadow transition
Really smart man! From an old dude that has layering thick coats of highlights and shading. This is very smart and looks great! Thanks for teaching an old dog a cool new trick!
Welcome to the world of miniature painting! Wargamers, and & table top miniature painters have been using glazing and pin-washing techniques for ages. Great video!
Thanks for your post. I was just wondering if the technique would work well with a 1/16 Tamiya Japanese aviator I'm starting on. Apparently the answer is "yes".
Looks like a more economic technique like the standard procedure that you and I use. I will give it a try with the next figure. Thanks for this very instructive and illustrating video, Martin. 👍
Heck yeah I'm gonna give this method a whirl. Looks simple enough and with what limited figure skills I've developed thus far this should take my figures to the next level.
-Superbe , bravo, quelle maîtrise.... et quel plaisir de découvrir les évolutions de peinture. On en tire toujours quelque chose à essayer , merci pour ce partage .
I just wanted to say that I enjoy every one of your videos and that they have helped me immensely in my builds. Some things that I thought I could never do you have made me understand how to and I have actually been able to pull the techniques off. Groundwork is an Achilles heel of mine and I will be doing one for a current build I have and I will be using your groundwork techniques step by step. Thanks for helping me and many others.
Thanks! I haven’t painted many miniature figures, but this technique looks great! I wouldn’t consider it “cheating”, as it produces great results. I think I’ll give this a try, though I may substitute a different technique for the airbrushing - I think you have steadier hands than me.. Awesome work!
Thanks for this. I have avoided moving forward with my armour build as I wanted to add figures to it (I'm not an armour builder really, just wanted to try something different). This video has given me something to try and hopefully give me something close to what I had envisaged.
I've been using this technique lately, especially since I picked up the line of Pro Acryl's Transparent Paints; they go down and mix like regular miniature paints but they're transparent, perfect for over-zenithal techniques.
So many years I been building armor and aircraft and avoided figures like the plague. I picked a helluva time to start learning to painting figures. This method looks easy I’ll give it a go I think this will be the 9th attempt just for one crewman.
Hi Martin: I would consider for the next figure a dark brown and a warm white for base and zenital highlight (airbrush steps). This way the glaze colors are warmer too, and so, more natural.
Martin, a couple of suggestions: 1) Instead of retarder to mix the paint when outlining, use Vallejo Washes, they have a really weird composition that allows you to work confortably, almost almost like an enamel or oil. 2) Instead of painting the white color with the airbrush, drybrush it (to avoid the chalky, grainy finish use a soft big round brush; better yet, a cheap make-up brush)
Primera vez que veo un video tan didactico para pintar figuras para que queden realistas...felicitaciones gran video y muy didactico. Saludos desde Chile
I discovered your channel this year and have become addicted. You are such a huge inspiration. I am going to focus more on realistic and detailed work in 2024. Marry christmas and happy new year!
Martin, I cannot recommend enough the videos of Josedavinci if you haven't seen them. He explains and demonstrates glazing and wet blending with acrylics very well, and I've learned how to do it from those videos. He improved my figure painting quality significantly.
One thing that may be worth experimenting with for glazing on skin tones is maybe to base coat heads/arms/hands with the right shade of brown and tan instead of black and white?? I haven't tried it myself yet, but I bet there must be a certain shade combination that makes for an efficiency sweet spot. One of the benefits of glazing already is to be able to shift similar tones away from each other, that's perfect for for having an array of slightly different skin tones among figures.
As someone that only paints figures i would advocate using white ink in the zenithal step. The pigments are so fine that you never get the spattering/spotty parts that white paint through the airbrush tend to do.
I like using the glaze's complimentary color in place of black - so for an olive drab, a red brown instead of black. Of course this can be challenging if the figure needs a bunch of different color glazes.
This is not cheating, this is the way! Basic techniques, advanced results! You figure turned great and I'll use this method when painting the 1/20 scale figures from Maschinen Kreiger.
Ahhhh…. I’m remember discovering this method. Your right it feels like cheating and when I passed it over to my lil group of chumrades, it’s exactly how I described the method. And in reading the comments here I feel I’ve learned a lil more to experiment with going forward. Detonate new sun here chief! Very enjoyable watch.
I'm 60 and my eyes aren't what they used to be, but that looks amazing. Hope I can use some of what's in here some day. I only started painting figures a few years ago, and the truth is mine are quite basic. I really don't mind.
Spraying white from into. Very simple but very effective. Great tip. Thanks. It's a yea! I wonder would it work for seats etc. Build up the colours subtly and let the eye fill in the details.
Looks great. I mostly paint fantasy and scifi stuff but I’m thinking I should pick up a few more of these nice realistic green/olive/khaki colours as they’re really nice
Thanks for the video, I have a few kits that have included figures on the backlog and it’s nice to see how other people do their technique and learn something new
Wish I had seen this just over a week ago. Almost finished on a 1/32 Mirage pilot and this would have helped so much with the face and hands. I'm not a figure guy and just did as well as I could at the time.
I’ve always enjoyed building models. I built my first one at the tender age of 10, maybe even as early as 8, through my early/mid teens, when toy and hobby stores in my neighborhood started closing mid 1970s. You couldn’t find a store that sold models anywhere. I was into slot cars too, especially Aurora. All my favorite things seemed to have vanished. Fast forward decades later, and through eBay, Amazon and the internet, I went back to my roots and began building models and racing slot cars. Anyway, long story shot, all the models I built over my lifetime, I only painted a handful and not very good either. You and others inspired me to give it a go, so now I purchased a airbrush kit along with acrylic and enamel paints. I have a few broken models around that I am going to practice on, I’ve yet to use the airbrush. I’m learning through your excellent videos and I’m just in awe of your creations, you make it look so easy. I’m not expecting mine to come out like yours, but I’ll be happy if they look somewhat decent.
I've never tried my hand at painting miniatures, as yet. I've got some Tamiya US Infantry that are depicted in desert fatigues and wearing PASGT armor and using ALICE gear. Those fine details on all the rigging is the "fun" part.
I'm returning to modeling after an absence of 42 years--I'm now retired. Part of my career was as a technical trainer (electronics, computers, s/w, processes), and this session is close to being a masterpiece. I learned so much about a topic where my knowledge and skills are literally at zero. Broad expanses of armor, wings, and hulls are a piece of cake, but this stuff is a true art form, and I feel blessed by the skill level you bring to the subject. Your knowledge is excellent, but your presentation skills, especially with commentary, are outstanding. I had a little difficulty with the accent at first, but caught on quickly, and I liked this whole segment so much I had my wife watch it just for the sheer entertainment value, and even SHE loved it! Kind of like the first time I heard Led Zeppelin in 1968. I'm a fan!!! It comes across as a true labor of love Mr. Kovac!
ha ha right on. I cant draw or free hand / paint canvas at all but for some reason I can do models decent and im learning faster and getting better at then I thought I would. Because in life im a slow learner witch surprised me. It gets even funner the more you do it thus the better you get. I paint warhammer 40k myself but Im a history nerd so id love to do some tanks down the road. After the Ukraine counter offensive mybie a challenger 2 or leapord we will have to see ! Enjoy your retire ment 42 year is a hudge tour lol
Really well said, I am retired and more into historical or fantasy dioramas in 1:18th scale but don't have years of miniature painting experience. I can do horses because I spent much of my life around them, drawing them and collecting and painting models of them but, the human face is just impossible, so I am eager to try this method.
As a recently reborn modeler, I echo your comments entirely. Just started my first kit this century (literally). I wasn't going to include any figures, but seeing this makes me think I could give it a whirl.
Holy moly, that white paint on the black layer just adds a whole nother dimension to the figure and it just looks so freaking COOL
I find when pre-shading skin tones, if I use a dark red instead of black I get much more realistic shading.
I use Vallejo Back Red (I think) or Hull Red mixed with a drop of German Grey
Redess Brown
After many minis painting tutorials watched, I must admit this is one of the best and most pleasurable. I like the way you talk on the video. It has some storytelling in it. "Let's go on painting adventure. 12 minutes. You and me. No risk man, just fun"
With regards to the zenithal highlight technique, I've found that using a very dark brown/coffee base coat and an eggshell/cotton highlight coat helps with the starkness of the effect. Essentially, it gives yo a warmer base to work with which makes both cloth (particularly what is supposed to be natural fibers) and skin look less dead.
I agree. I find the best colour for the base coat is simply a darker version of whatever the glaze/filter would be (so in this case, it would be a dark olive) and not actual black. As usual though, I can't argue with the results that Martin gets! :-)
I can see how that would be ideal, but using black and white primers is probably quicker and more efficient than specifically finding fitting primers for every single unique figure...
@@Armo1997 you do not need to look for matching primer just add additional cover with darker base colour (e.g. base colour with black) and do the zenithal highlight with white/ white tinted with base colour. I do not think it is much more effort. Nevertheless, you may use it only for faces to remove the "sicknes" just use dark skin tone for a whole batch of heads in your army:) additionally drybrushing hairs is great way to highlight them effectively.
Great idea
I was thinking the same thing.
I love how dynamical your work, and your channel is. You go all the way from spending 70hrs on chipping Tiger to basically speedpainting minis. Amazing that each of your models is not just "another one" but rather a journey to try and teach completely new techniques.
As a long-time minature painter, I recommend switching out the Tamiya flat white for a white acrylic ink. It will reduce speckling dramatically. I'm not a great airbrush painter, so I use it thinned 50:50 to be more forgiving, but that is not necessary.
I'll give this a go! Speckling can indeed be an issue.
I've found the opposite to be better and sticking with flat white thinning flat white 1:8 thinner at 28psi/1.8bar. The ink is too glossy which doesn't help with paint adhesion and doesn't build up as smooth a transition.
Specifically Liquitex white ink. Other brands I've used in the past have speckled just like paint. I think Liquitex uses much finer pigments.
+1 for Liquitex although it is not in anyway a robust color. It will rub off from handling even when dry.
In this particular case I'd say that the texture from the speckling actually gives it a more realistic look.
Gosh, If you ever do a diorama for this thing, I just feel it would fit best on a slope in a tall grass field, ever since the start of this build and seeing the turret so far tilted up I could just picture it. Doing something like a tall grass field would be a joy to see you figure out, as I've always wanted to do one of my own, and I really feel it would be an awesome change of pace.
I love the fact that you're putting figures with your models now and you seem to be enjoying figure painting now which is a plus!
I would like to thank you, for showing us this method.
Tried it today, and it worked pretty well.
Never would have dared to paint in this way, but the result is surprising and looks very good.
Greetings from Belgium and thx for all your tutorials!
As a modeler that just started into this hobby about 6 months ago and started with planes, I out of my zone and started on some armor. Night Shift has taught me a ton and this video was very informative for me in learning the miniature side of the hobby. Thanks again and what great work this is. All your videos are awesome.
You make everything look easy in this hobby! But seriously, this is so helpful for painting figures. It’s so simple and looks like so much fun. :)
Yes, this is the method I use on every one of my figures. One of the major benefits (apart from the simplicity) is the finish is VERY matt, on account of the glaze/filter being just a diluted watery wash. There's no need to try and blast the figure into "matt-ness" with a flat coat at the end. The white highlight spray should be heavily thinned, too. Anyway, great video, as always! :)
How do you make a glaze?
@liamfarnell6638 Just very thin paint. I just mix it with water, though some people use a purpose-made glaze medium (available from Vallejo, Ammo, AK etc). I find water works fine though. This is assuming you're using acrylics, of course. For an oil or enamel glaze, use thinners.
I’m a figure painter 99% of the time but follow you. One thing I see that armour modellers forget when adding figures is that the shadow areas on each figure is individual. So there have bee tanks with crew gathered around ALL with the highlights in the same place per figure and NOT how light would strike each one differently. Think of the 5 on a dice, light coming at 45 degrees would hit differing sides if the 4 outer figures were all looking at the centre. 👍🏽
That`s so amazing - I never thought about a black basic colour, before I started watching your videos. But concerning a "fake shadow" in areas, where one might miss some colour when paintig a model, this was the best idea ever. Thank you very much for this!
Vallejo air are great (and extremely cheap) colors to thin down for glazing. Using a glaze medium instead of water is also very good. If you want really vivid colors you can use Games Workshops contrast paints (stupid expensive) in a thin layer (or straight from the can if that's the result you're looking for) and if you're advanced you can use other colors than black/white to glaze over. And if you're really really advanced you can mix metals into your glazes and get cool results.
If you want more advanced underpainting you can wash, drybrush, highlight or even weather your sketch before glazing it. Or between layers of glaze.
You made a great figure. It's a definate yay from here. Good and patient job as always.
Thank you for this video I'm going to be working on my 1/32 scale He-219 and I have a resin maintenance crew, aircraft crew, and weapons loaders and this will definitely come in handy when I paint them
Hard to argue with these results. They speak for themselves. Ive been doing a 3 step zenithal (B/G/W). And while this helps get an smoother transition (less speckling), I really like your White over Black for higher contrast. This is basically a sketch prime for values and it really works with the glazing. I will be trying this out. Love this video. Thank you.
Nice video Martin. Yes glazing is a great way to go. Keeping that preshade is key to achieving good results. Lots of layers to blend those transitions. Great stuff!
I've watched uploads from many very talented modellers and their subjects be they tanks, aircraft or buildings are magnificent but they let themselves down with human figures. They always seem to be overdone with heavy shading particularly on faces making them almost cartoonish.
You have no such problem!
That figure is a sheer delight to see.👍
Hey thank you!!! This is a hobby I am just starting to get into and have been a bit disappointed with my first few efforts. Going to give this a try with my next set of minis. The comments from everyone, also very helpful. Thanks folks....
Just what I needed! this is actually a nice way for painting anything with brushes :D Going to try it over the weekend
Yeah!
Amazing how I just started buying figures for upcoming dioramas, and rewatched older videos of your figures… just for this video to come out today. Wonderful work! Glazing method seems to give the most control with the best outcome.
Great tip, thank you for that movie. You can also use Glaze Medium to dilute the main paint, It will of course cause the paint will dry much slower, but is also eliminating "water" tension and will not allow to accumulate paint in drop shadow areas.
Awesome. I was also aware of zenithal highlighting, and props to you Martin for making the jump from table-top to scale models. The process you’re using here make such sense, and whilst I’ve done the thinning/glazing thing, it’s only when you said ‘yo, it’s a filter’ did it click. Can’t wait to try this on my Brit RAC figures i got for my Border Model’s Crusader diorama. Thanks so much! By way of helping, I’d recommend looking up Squidmar’s video on using wet palettes. He talks about ‘loading’ the brush correctly for highlighting, and once you see what he’s talking about, it really helps with the whole ‘tide mark/brush stroke’ thing. Great stuff Uncle!
Awesome video and a great use of the highlighting technique. The mini-painting folks often call this a 'zenithal' highlight, but it was definitely surprising to learn as an armour modeller making the shift into mini-painting. After some experimentation, I find that with faces, in particular, it can be useful to put them on an armature and eschew the white/black to instead use flesh tones in the same approach - I usually vary this a little as humans get suntanned skin where exposed to sun if exposed to sun frequently; clothing does not share this trait.
Similarly, I find that varying the type of white you use for the highlight spray from pure white to various sorts of off-whites allows you to create cool or warm highlights in addition to providing the same benefits as the pure white. Some glaze colours do better over a yellow highlight spray (red, orange).
This technique gives great results and seems easy to master, something good for the average modeler. I sometimes use a similar technique, utilizing glazes to soften the shadows and hilights on the figure. Excellent video, thanks for sharing! 👍
Fantastic Tutorial🏆🏆🏆! I’ve known about this technique for years and have always used it, but your thinning of the paints like you showed is the key as well as the use of flow retardant. Patience and practice are the key to any of our skills, but this just re-enforces what can be done with a simple change. Very well done and thanks…
Looking forward to traying this method. It will be my first try at a 1/35 scale figure - or any figure, for that matter. Thanks for the detailed tutorial.
fantastic results! I'm going to paint my Imperial Guard using these techniques someday, but if you want to beat me to the punch, I would definitely watch a video of you painting a squad or a IG tank (if you're into WH40K). This is way better than having to use 30 colors of paint to get roughly the same result and minimal blending required! Great job!
This looks great! I think that this face may be the best one you have made yet! The tanker looks amazing standing on the tank, the uniform green looks terrific!
Trying this out right now on the aircrew for my 1/48 diorama and so far I like it. Only put on two coats so far, but the zenital shading is still showing through and if I can get them somewhere close to this, I’ll be stoked.
I'll try it! When it holds up under magnification like in this video, you know you've done a superior job. Amazing figure and model!
Martin, thank you so much for this. I know there are a multitude of other channels etc dedicated to figure painting but, I never been able to"get it". Watching this today domething finally clicked and tonight I've tried this out on a couple of figures. I'm only 3 filter/glazes in and already there's an appreciable improvement in my figures. Thanks again.
Definitely yay! Darn that looks good. I'm looking at it mostly from lotr/warhammer figures perspective and it looks waay better than most techniques I've seen. Sure it can't be applied to everything, but all the textiles easily. Gotta try it, it really gives it that nice realistic shadow transition
Really smart man! From an old dude that has layering thick coats of highlights and shading. This is very smart and looks great! Thanks for teaching an old dog a cool new trick!
Incredible. Best technique and results I have encountered. Now to apply it myself.....
I've been getting ready to start tackling some figures myself. THANK YOU for putting this out. This will be a game changer for me!
Welcome to the world of miniature painting! Wargamers, and & table top miniature painters have been using glazing and pin-washing techniques for ages. Great video!
Excellent video! I just used this method on 70mm figure and it worked beautifully! I think I'll just keep using this technique.
Thanks for your post. I was just wondering if the technique would work well with a 1/16 Tamiya Japanese aviator I'm starting on. Apparently the answer is "yes".
This is a terrific demo and I will use this method on my figures. I mostly build planes but take breaks painting figures for my plane.
Phenomenal! The results are amazing and work excellent here. Never have I seen green done this well. Thanks!
I was skeptical at the start, but daaaaaaaammmmmmnnnnn! That is one fantastic result! Will be giving this a go.
Looks like a more economic technique like the standard procedure that you and I use. I will give it a try with the next figure. Thanks for this very instructive and illustrating video, Martin. 👍
Outstanding job, great technique, I do like the final mud effects, realistic and superb!
Heck yeah I'm gonna give this method a whirl. Looks simple enough and with what limited figure skills I've developed thus far this should take my figures to the next level.
-Superbe , bravo, quelle maîtrise.... et quel plaisir de découvrir les évolutions de peinture. On en tire toujours quelque chose à essayer , merci pour ce partage .
Fantastic result! 👏
I just wanted to say that I enjoy every one of your videos and that they have helped me immensely in my builds. Some things that I thought I could never do you have made me understand how to and I have actually been able to pull the techniques off. Groundwork is an Achilles heel of mine and I will be doing one for a current build I have and I will be using your groundwork techniques step by step. Thanks for helping me and many others.
Thanks! I haven’t painted many miniature figures, but this technique looks great! I wouldn’t consider it “cheating”, as it produces great results. I think I’ll give this a try, though I may substitute a different technique for the airbrushing - I think you have steadier hands than me.. Awesome work!
Thanks for this. I have avoided moving forward with my armour build as I wanted to add figures to it (I'm not an armour builder really, just wanted to try something different). This video has given me something to try and hopefully give me something close to what I had envisaged.
I've been using this technique lately, especially since I picked up the line of Pro Acryl's Transparent Paints; they go down and mix like regular miniature paints but they're transparent, perfect for over-zenithal techniques.
So many years I been building armor and aircraft and avoided figures like the plague. I picked a helluva time to start learning to painting figures. This method looks easy I’ll give it a go I think this will be the 9th attempt just for one crewman.
You’ve just solved my worries of figure painting 👌
Hi Martin: I would consider for the next figure a dark brown and a warm white for base and zenital highlight (airbrush steps). This way the glaze colors are warmer too, and so, more natural.
Martin, a couple of suggestions: 1) Instead of retarder to mix the paint when outlining, use Vallejo Washes, they have a really weird composition that allows you to work confortably, almost almost like an enamel or oil. 2) Instead of painting the white color with the airbrush, drybrush it (to avoid the chalky, grainy finish use a soft big round brush; better yet, a cheap make-up brush)
So the Vallejo washes won't have the effect of tiding? Or strong color lines from the way washes tend to pool (which is sort of the point of washes)
Interesting method of figure painting. I must experiment on a figure for myself to see how it works. Great work as usual Martin 🙂
Primera vez que veo un video tan didactico para pintar figuras para que queden realistas...felicitaciones gran video y muy didactico.
Saludos desde Chile
I discovered your channel this year and have become addicted. You are such a huge inspiration. I am going to focus more on realistic and detailed work in 2024. Marry christmas and happy new year!
Thank you for this video! My bf is getting back into military miniatures and this technique looks doable!!!!
OMG. Totally AWSOME way of painting. Will have to give your method a good go !!!!
Dude, I just want to say thank you for sharing all of your tips, and your modeling journey. See you in the next one.
Martin, I cannot recommend enough the videos of Josedavinci if you haven't seen them. He explains and demonstrates glazing and wet blending with acrylics very well, and I've learned how to do it from those videos. He improved my figure painting quality significantly.
Thank you for showing such a great technique , it has helped me a lot in my painting of figures .
Your modelling and painting techniques are amazing! I have learnt so much.
One thing that may be worth experimenting with for glazing on skin tones is maybe to base coat heads/arms/hands with the right shade of brown and tan instead of black and white?? I haven't tried it myself yet, but I bet there must be a certain shade combination that makes for an efficiency sweet spot. One of the benefits of glazing already is to be able to shift similar tones away from each other, that's perfect for for having an array of slightly different skin tones among figures.
As someone that only paints figures i would advocate using white ink in the zenithal step.
The pigments are so fine that you never get the spattering/spotty parts that white paint through the airbrush tend to do.
Thank you stunning work. I’ll attempt to adopt your method and hope it will work on a 1:72 scale figure…
I like using the glaze's complimentary color in place of black - so for an olive drab, a red brown instead of black. Of course this can be challenging if the figure needs a bunch of different color glazes.
Amazingly simple yet a very nice end result! If I still had both of my eyes I would try this method for sure.
This is not cheating, this is the way! Basic techniques, advanced results! You figure turned great and I'll use this method when painting the 1/20 scale figures from Maschinen Kreiger.
Ahhhh…. I’m remember discovering this method. Your right it feels like cheating and when I passed it over to my lil group of chumrades, it’s exactly how I described the method. And in reading the comments here I feel I’ve learned a lil more to experiment with going forward. Detonate new sun here chief! Very enjoyable watch.
The best tutorial I found so far (and I was looking for one a lot)
Very well done! I will be sure to use this technique going forward.
Aewsome paint work. Superb result 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👌🏾👌🏾👌🏾
I'm 60 and my eyes aren't what they used to be, but that looks amazing. Hope I can use some of what's in here some day. I only started painting figures a few years ago, and the truth is mine are quite basic. I really don't mind.
You are a painting Wizard..! Amazing job Uncle.
Amazing job as always!
It would be awesome to see you work your magic on a Warhammer 40k tank!
A diarama that looks like an old black and white photo would actually be an awesome idea I think 😁
Spraying white from into. Very simple but very effective. Great tip. Thanks. It's a yea! I wonder would it work for seats etc. Build up the colours subtly and let the eye fill in the details.
A master job on this figure...well done
That's simply brilliant, and brilliantly simple
Looks great. I mostly paint fantasy and scifi stuff but I’m thinking I should pick up a few more of these nice realistic green/olive/khaki colours as they’re really nice
Thanks for the video, I have a few kits that have included figures on the backlog and it’s nice to see how other people do their technique and learn something new
Really interesting method. I've always shied away from figure painting, but now I feel like I'm ready to give it a try...
Very good method, the figure turned out great. Painting figures has always been my Achilles heel. Thanks for sharing.
WOW !!! Very nice results. I will definitely be giving this method a try on my next figure 👍👍
I think I will totally copy that technique for my next figure
Wish I had seen this just over a week ago. Almost finished on a 1/32 Mirage pilot and this would have helped so much with the face and hands. I'm not a figure guy and just did as well as I could at the time.
Ok... THIS was one of your BEST VIDS YET! VERY Nicely Done! :D
A very neat concept, I'll try it when I get an airbrush. You could also do a diorama that mimics a black and white photo from WW2.
The results are excellent. I've been trying to get clarity on this method. You did well in answering. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the information. The figure looks great. I'm learning something from every figure painting video I watch. 👍👍
I’ve always enjoyed building models. I built my first one at the tender age of 10, maybe even as early as 8, through my early/mid teens, when toy and hobby stores in my neighborhood started closing mid 1970s. You couldn’t find a store that sold models anywhere. I was into slot cars too, especially Aurora. All my favorite things seemed to have vanished. Fast forward decades later, and through eBay, Amazon and the internet, I went back to my roots and began building models and racing slot cars. Anyway, long story shot, all the models I built over my lifetime, I only painted a handful and not very good either. You and others inspired me to give it a go, so now I purchased a airbrush kit along with acrylic and enamel paints. I have a few broken models around that I am going to practice on, I’ve yet to use the airbrush. I’m learning through your excellent videos and I’m just in awe of your creations, you make it look so easy. I’m not expecting mine to come out like yours, but I’ll be happy if they look somewhat decent.
Fantastic result.It looks great.Compliment.
Nice technique👍
One cannot argue with the results, well done.
I've never tried my hand at painting miniatures, as yet. I've got some Tamiya US Infantry that are depicted in desert fatigues and wearing PASGT armor and using ALICE gear. Those fine details on all the rigging is the "fun" part.
I'm starting new project today and I think I'm going to try this method on the model. Great video very helpful and informative
I love this technique. So realistic.