Here's one more trick to seat the bead. Actually an off-road motorcycling tip. Once both sides of the tire are on the rim, use a ratchet strap, rope or even a tire tube and attach around the mounted tire. What you're doing is essentially pushing the center of the tire tread inwards evenly around the rim, which in turn forces the beads outwards against the sides of the rim lessening the opportunity for air to escape while pumping up. The tube method might be a good one (haven't tried it yet, just thought of it) because it would create good inward pressure while also expanding in diameter as the tire is being inflated keeping consistent even pressure.
Definitely a go to in our shop, I'd say I have to use this trick on most fat bike conversions I do plus some standard and 27.5+ mtb tires that are just a poor fit.
Best Mtb channel I've seen. Humor, technical skills and mechanical skills all in one package. Thank you so much Gmbn, I've really benefitted a lot from this channel. Cheers
+Global Mountain Bike Network You can also pull a tie-down down tight around the circumference of the tire to force the bead out to the rim while you pump the first bit of air in. Cheers, Jeff
Global Mountain Bike Network I've just bought a Scott Spark 750 with tubeless ready tires, what is some requirements that you need to do when inflating and maintaining these tires ( first time I've ever had tubeless).
Don't know if this has been mentioned, but: Use the compressor to lock the tire bead on the rim before you think about sealant. I take the valve core out (always stans valve) then use the compressor to pulse air through the valve stem. You want high pressure, like 80lbs. Don't attach the compressor to the valve, just use a graduated 'nozzle' on the compressor so you can direct the air in. Hit it with high pressure til you hear the bead pop on once or twice. You don't want to blow the tire off the rim so after it seats, back off and let the air out. The bead is still seated. Then hit it again with the graduated nozzle til you hear the bead pop on once more. 3 pops usually means the bead is on. If you have a decent rim and tire you are good. Inject sealant into valve stem using the stans injector. You don't have to make a mess... I've done it many ways but this is the best I've found. Tellung people to use a hand pump to seat a bead is cruelty. Stop it.
I agree with the compressor. You can buy a compressor for the same price as a good track pump. I have never been able to seat a tyre with a track pump. But I do use the track pump, after the compressure has seated the tyre, to bring the pressure up to pop the bead. A compressor can put 100pis in the tyre (think exploding carbon rim!) and I want to see and control the pressure with the track pump.
seems like the best way to do it. My local shop had to do this for me. Worked like a charm. I still have a wobble in a new tubeless setup i just did, so will most likely release the air and try it the above way you mentioned. We just mounted this most recent one with a simple compressor (el cheapo one), so a "shop" quality one should work better
A little trick I picked up from Stan is to tape the rim and then put a tube in and tire on and pump it up for an couple of hours, then take the tire and tube off and the rim tape adheres perfectly to the rim... then put the back on and pump it up until the bead(s) set, deflate , add Stans and re pump... works everytime....
Daniel Folta A slight improvement on that: Get a ROAD tubeless tyre and use a road innertube. Inflate to 100 psi and leave overnight. This will flatten the rim tape down perfectly. You have to use a proper road tubeless tyre if going above 50 psi. Anything else risks a dangerous bead blow-off. I have used this method on my last 2 sets of mountain tubeless wheels. I have also experienced many bead blow-offs in the past. Injuries include: sprained thumb; temporary deafness (the noise is colossal!). I once had one Hope rear wheel spin in the air and throw it's freehub and cassette in my direction!
During a recent trip to Moab, Utah, I got a rip in my tube, but I didn't realize what had happened, because my tire and rim were both tubeless ready, and I was using slime tubes. I kept hearing the air occasionally come out, but it was always coming out through the valve hole (not the valve itself). Eventually, the tire went down completely, so I had to change the tube (thinking the hole was at the base of the valve stem). When I got the tire apart, I saw that there was about a 3cm gash in the tube, so it wasn't holding the air at all (tire was fine), and all of the slime had gone from the tube into the tire, and I was effectively running a tubeless system without the tubeless valve (hence the leaking out the valve hole). We called it "Ghetto Tubeless" since it had lasted for about 2 to 3 days like that. It was effectively tubeless with the weight of a tube in there just for fun. I had been resistant to going tubeless because of the mess (self healing tubes keep the mess inside the tube), but after having to deal with that ghetto tubeless, I realized that actual tubeless would likely be fine... which is why I'm back watching this video. I've never set up tubeless before, but I bought my valves and sealant, and I needed the tips on when to add the sealant and how to seal the tire. My first tire is now aired up and back on the bike, and I'm about to do the 2nd. Thanks for these how-to videos. Even if I don't need them when you post them, I know I can find them when I need the advice. :)
6 років тому
Tubeless is the way to go. Apologies about the 1 year late reply but it is the way to go
I bought a small co2 fire extinguisher recently. Emptied it and opened it up and then drilled a 6mm hole in the bottom and put in a presta valve cut off and old innertube. This lets me pump up to 160psi with the track pump then i attached a hose and nozzle off an old track pump to the nozzle of the fire extinguisher. This then easily fills two full tyres and seats the beads almost instantaneously. It just sits in the bottom of my toolbox and i use it whenever i am blowing up a tubless tyre. Just don't store it pressurized.
Punctured a tube yesterday first time out on the new whip! So watched this and committed... Awesome, first one was a little tricky to inflate but second one went on a treat! Used track pump too! Cheers Neil and GMBN!
I had watched another video where it said to ensure the bead was seated before pumping. I nearly tore my hands apart with a tyre level trying to get the bead seated with super tight tyres. My mate sent me this video and it worked first go. Thanks,
Life saver of a video!! If it hadn't been for your tip on inflating with an inner tube to bed the one side of the tyre I NEVER would've gotten my conversion to work. Thank you!
Thanks for the inner tube trick just had a nightmare to get my new tyre to sit and bead properly but the inner tube method worked in the end absolute nightmare 😂
I work at Revolution Cycle in Edmonton, Canada (originally from the UK), and we discovered another trick for getting the tire to inflate. We stretched a few rubber bands joined together around the tire to help make a tighter seal and it worked a miracle! I was using Specialized tires on Syncros rims and they fit pretty loose; before the rubber band trick there was no way they were going to inflate, and we had a compressor! Hope this helps.
Just did a tubeless setup on my Jam2 with raceface AR30 offset rims, it finally worked without a booster or compressor when opening only one side of the rim. Most importantly the offset side, this way, you don't have the holes of the spokes underneath the rim tape letting air trough when pumping. will leave them overnight on 35 PSI and see what it is the result in the morning. could hear any hissing after rotating the wheels for some time.
Dan Davison mentioned using rubber bands around the tire but that mad me remember an old trick we used on motorcycle and atv tires when they wouldn't go on. We would take an old tiedown (ratchet type seemed to work better) and put it all the way around the tires and snug it up then start adding the air and those stubborn tires would pop right on. never needed to do that with a bicycle tire but I've never done a tubeless conversion yet either.
another awesome vid. Thanks GMBN, I normally kick back after work with a jug of water and watch stuff on UA-cam, and yours is some of the best 👍 BTW RYDER a South African cycling tools and accessories manufacturer makes a great foot pump called the "RYDER Air Tank" it's a normal foot / floor pump with an air tank built into the vertical piston housing. The presta / schrader valve adapter has an inline shutoff valve. So to seat a tyre, you pump the "pump" up to 240psi, connect it to the wheel's valve and open the shutoff valve, and the tank discharges a few gallons of air into the Tyre in an instant. Same effect as a CO2 bomb. works real nice for me so far
Thanks a lot. This video gave me the confidence to give it a go and yesterday I converted to tubeless at home with very little fuss. I wasn't able to get the tyres to seat as my floor pump is a bit dodgy, but luckily I have a Presta to Schrader valve adapter so a quick trip to the nearest petrol station and I was done.
Great video as always thank you. Just done mine now. An Airshot pump made it so much easier to get the tyres to seal. Instant pop- pop then undo the valve core and reinflate. Shook the fluid around lots and went for a quick ride.
Great video. Thanks to these tips i got my conversion done in ~20 mins without any leakage or problems. And that was with a pretty low volume track-pump. Helped a little that my tyres pretty much held the seal even without any milk to begin with...
You may have mentioned it, but I have an air compressor, set it at 50psi. filled up the tire without the sealant, and both beads set. Now I will go back and fill it with sealant.
Hi Guys I have done a few conversions myself. The first one I did was with a 24" inner-tube that functioned as my "rim-tape" (you cut it open) on a 29" rim; works like a charm seeing the sealant seals very nice with rubber on rubber then. Thanks so much for the advise regarding the popping of the Bead. Good tips and will defo's come in handy in the future! Top Channel!
For those who asked how often you need to add sealant. I have to add more every three months. I ride in the desert it gets a bit hotter here and the thorns. So many thorns when I replace my tires.
Great video, I have had success sealing a tubeless tire with a hand pump. This is only when refilling the sealant though. I've found it easier to do when adding the sealant through the valve core because you don't have to completely break the bead. I recommend doing this with the bike on a stand though because then there's no pressure on the tire and again helps the tire maintain that bead even when it doesn't have air in it. Thank you for all the videos you do, they're awesome!
If GMBN visits places I'd really want them to come to my school because there r some people interested but have no idea what they do so if neil,Blake and Scott comes they can teach us some stuff
So recently brought my first proper bike (santa Cruz 5010) was led to believe it was tubeless but it wasn't had to make it so after a puncture so again thanks for the help!
just converted my tires to tubeless using this video. first try was VERY messy ! second try was better and second wheel was rather quick. pro tip if you don't know what you're doing: pick a lot of rim tape. there's barely enough tape to do 3 or 4 wheels.
pro advice, if the tire do not seal by itself, do not add sealant! or else just like me you will make some mess only, in other words i was unable to transfer rear wheel to tubeless.
Amusingly the stan's no tubes flow ex rims are the WORST for tubeless conversion. See at 3:00 on the video, you can clearly see the vent hole in the right side of the rim (not covered by tape). They put the vents near the edge of the rim where they are really hard to seal. So even though the spoke holes to seal you end up with a leak. Typically the air comes out the stem. I recommend any other rim without vent holes at the outside edge.
I've found that if I'm having trouble getting the bead to seat and the tire to inflate using a floor pump, pressing down on the tire above the stem while pumping with the other hand gets it going faster- I imagine that's because there's less volume which makes it easier to inflate
I haven't done this before... Does it work with every MTB rim and with "tubeless ready" tyres (maxxis high roller II) ? I absolutely love the channel by the way, it really helps me to improve my riding exprerience ! Thanks
I'm going with tube but i also put a anti flat band in yeah it makes the tire heavier but i've never got a problem with punctures. I use my hardtail in city conditions (sometimes smashed bottles etc)
I rode in South Texas where mesquite trees have nasty thorns. Tried the anti flat band in the tires with double thick tubes. Didn't work and the weight was very noticeable. I would have went tubeless if I had stayed down there any longer.
Bloody dislikers how did they managed to get here. This video is a Top 10 in UA-cam's MTB greatest how-to's. Thanks GMBN for the job well done there. All covered for a clean tubeless work!
Did my first tubless today. Used tube in tyre overnight at 50psi after raping the rim. Worked out well so far. Beads sitting nicely and syringed Stans Sealant easy in. Will ride it soon to see how it all went 👍.
At least from what i have heard, you should not use co2 to inflate tubeless tires because it will freeze the sealant making it useless. Never tired it though. Also another way to get the tire to seat is to run soapy water around the bead and then go at it with a track pump. I have gotten tires on this way no problems.
Eddie Ah Kee I understand the concept of the issue with CO2 freezing but as long as you have the valve at the top of the rim and the fluid at the bottom of the tyre the co2 wouldn't freeze the fluid. Im not sure it would in a worst case scenario either to be honest. I've used co2 loads of times and never had an issue.
daniel fay Fair enough, like i said i have never actually tried it. It may have just been with some of the homemade sealants that you cant really do that with or something.
I went tubeless last week and at first it didnt pump up at first so i went on a rage and left it the 20 minutes later i tryed it again this time while using a track pump it went up fine
Is it possible to convert a aluminum double wall rim with a schrader valve to tubeless? As I need my bike to commute to work. I have had a couple of punctures caused by nails. I would very much appreciate some advice about going tubeless. I find GMBN videos very useful and informative, I have learned so much about keeping my MTB in top condition and riding tips for enjoying mountain biking. Thank you.
Here's one more trick to seat the bead. Actually an off-road motorcycling tip. Once both sides of the tire are on the rim, use a ratchet strap, rope or even a tire tube and attach around the mounted tire. What you're doing is essentially pushing the center of the tire tread inwards evenly around the rim, which in turn forces the beads outwards against the sides of the rim lessening the opportunity for air to escape while pumping up.
The tube method might be a good one (haven't tried it yet, just thought of it) because it would create good inward pressure while also expanding in diameter as the tire is being inflated keeping consistent even pressure.
Sean Knight This! i have a strap in my toolbox for exactly this.
Top tip, worked for me when I couldn't be bothered finding my soapy water sprayer. I think it's the reduction in the volume of the tyre that does it.
Definitely a go to in our shop, I'd say I have to use this trick on most fat bike conversions I do plus some standard and 27.5+ mtb tires that are just a poor fit.
I’ve done the same trick on tractor tyres
Best Mtb channel I've seen. Humor, technical skills and mechanical skills all in one package. Thank you so much Gmbn, I've really benefitted a lot from this channel.
Cheers
ryan tan Thanks for the comment and glad you like it! Neil
+Global Mountain Bike Network You can also pull a tie-down down tight around the circumference of the tire to force the bead out to the rim while you pump the first bit of air in. Cheers, Jeff
Global Mountain Bike Network I've just bought a Scott Spark 750 with tubeless ready tires, what is some requirements that you need to do when inflating and maintaining these tires ( first time I've ever had tubeless).
ryan tan i
@Sethsbikehacks is awesome
Don't know if this has been mentioned, but:
Use the compressor to lock the tire bead on the rim before you think about sealant.
I take the valve core out (always stans valve) then use the compressor to pulse air through the valve stem. You want high pressure, like 80lbs.
Don't attach the compressor to the valve, just use a graduated 'nozzle' on the compressor so you can direct the air in. Hit it with high pressure til you hear the bead pop on once or twice.
You don't want to blow the tire off the rim so after it seats, back off and let the air out. The bead is still seated. Then hit it again with the graduated nozzle til you hear the bead pop on once more. 3 pops usually means the bead is on.
If you have a decent rim and tire you are good. Inject sealant into valve stem using the stans injector. You don't have to make a mess...
I've done it many ways but this is the best I've found. Tellung people to use a hand pump to seat a bead is cruelty. Stop it.
I agree with the compressor. You can buy a compressor for the same price as a good track pump. I have never been able to seat a tyre with a track pump. But I do use the track pump, after the compressure has seated the tyre, to bring the pressure up to pop the bead. A compressor can put 100pis in the tyre (think exploding carbon rim!) and I want to see and control the pressure with the track pump.
seems like the best way to do it. My local shop had to do this for me. Worked like a charm.
I still have a wobble in a new tubeless setup i just did, so will most likely release the air and try it the above way you mentioned. We just mounted this most recent one with a simple compressor (el cheapo one), so a "shop" quality one should work better
Good clear instruction. No waffle, no time wasting, no swell heads. 10/10. 👍👍
A little trick I picked up from Stan is to tape the rim and then put a tube in and tire on and pump it up for an couple of hours, then take the tire and tube off and the rim tape adheres perfectly to the rim... then put the back on and pump it up until the bead(s) set, deflate , add Stans and re pump... works everytime....
Daniel Folta A slight improvement on that: Get a ROAD tubeless tyre and use a road innertube. Inflate to 100 psi and leave overnight. This will flatten the rim tape down perfectly. You have to use a proper road tubeless tyre if going above 50 psi. Anything else risks a dangerous bead blow-off. I have used this method on my last 2 sets of mountain tubeless wheels. I have also experienced many bead blow-offs in the past. Injuries include: sprained thumb; temporary deafness (the noise is colossal!). I once had one Hope rear wheel spin in the air and throw it's freehub and cassette in my direction!
During a recent trip to Moab, Utah, I got a rip in my tube, but I didn't realize what had happened, because my tire and rim were both tubeless ready, and I was using slime tubes. I kept hearing the air occasionally come out, but it was always coming out through the valve hole (not the valve itself). Eventually, the tire went down completely, so I had to change the tube (thinking the hole was at the base of the valve stem). When I got the tire apart, I saw that there was about a 3cm gash in the tube, so it wasn't holding the air at all (tire was fine), and all of the slime had gone from the tube into the tire, and I was effectively running a tubeless system without the tubeless valve (hence the leaking out the valve hole). We called it "Ghetto Tubeless" since it had lasted for about 2 to 3 days like that. It was effectively tubeless with the weight of a tube in there just for fun.
I had been resistant to going tubeless because of the mess (self healing tubes keep the mess inside the tube), but after having to deal with that ghetto tubeless, I realized that actual tubeless would likely be fine... which is why I'm back watching this video. I've never set up tubeless before, but I bought my valves and sealant, and I needed the tips on when to add the sealant and how to seal the tire. My first tire is now aired up and back on the bike, and I'm about to do the 2nd.
Thanks for these how-to videos. Even if I don't need them when you post them, I know I can find them when I need the advice. :)
Tubeless is the way to go. Apologies about the 1 year late reply but it is the way to go
I bought a small co2 fire extinguisher recently. Emptied it and opened it up and then drilled a 6mm hole in the bottom and put in a presta valve cut off and old innertube. This lets me pump up to 160psi with the track pump then i attached a hose and nozzle off an old track pump to the nozzle of the fire extinguisher. This then easily fills two full tyres and seats the beads almost instantaneously. It just sits in the bottom of my toolbox and i use it whenever i am blowing up a tubless tyre. Just don't store it pressurized.
***** No problem I'll send you one when I get home
Here, you go imgur.com/a/fsMHd +oxaniavideo
Here, you go imgur.com/a/fsMHd sorry, just trying to make sure you get a notification
Punctured a tube yesterday first time out on the new whip! So watched this and committed... Awesome, first one was a little tricky to inflate but second one went on a treat! Used track pump too! Cheers Neil and GMBN!
Very helpful! All bike mechanics I've talked to have told me a compressor is a must. I'll have to give a floor pump a try!
@@gabrieltrainer2271 managed a front tyre on an adventure motorbike with a floor pump. 21”
I had watched another video where it said to ensure the bead was seated before pumping.
I nearly tore my hands apart with a tyre level trying to get the bead seated with super tight tyres.
My mate sent me this video and it worked first go. Thanks,
Life saver of a video!! If it hadn't been for your tip on inflating with an inner tube to bed the one side of the tyre I NEVER would've gotten my conversion to work. Thank you!
Great video, really useful. Managed to get my tyres to pop on using my Co2 pump then topped up with my track pump.
I'm a french MTB fan, and your chain is very good and complite !
Bonjour ;-)
Replaced my tyres after watching your video and so stoked! Great video. Going out next week to give them a go. Thanks Neil!
Thanks for the tip about removing the core of the presta head. Helped me finally get it sealed.
Thanks Neil! I'm now running tubeless after a half hours work! I like you're style of explanation, you don't overcomplicate shit. my kinda guy! 👍
Yay i did my first fitting today by hand pump and it worked well so far no leaks no air loss
I added latex paint and did excellent job,I did my research and both paint and sealant share similar stuff after one month still running good
Thanks for the inner tube trick just had a nightmare to get my new tyre to sit and bead properly but the inner tube method worked in the end absolute nightmare 😂
The inner tube trick to seat the new tyre was really helpful
I work at Revolution Cycle in Edmonton, Canada (originally from the UK), and we discovered another trick for getting the tire to inflate. We stretched a few rubber bands joined together around the tire to help make a tighter seal and it worked a miracle! I was using Specialized tires on Syncros rims and they fit pretty loose; before the rubber band trick there was no way they were going to inflate, and we had a compressor! Hope this helps.
Line the valve up with the middle of the logo it looks neater!
Very important tip is to clean your tires with isopropyl alcohol, so it actually seals and there's no dirt in your sealant
Do u need 2 buy tubeless tyres?
Great video dude. The inner tube to seat one side of the bead trick worked for me! Track pump only required.
Just did a tubeless setup on my Jam2 with raceface AR30 offset rims, it finally worked without a booster or compressor when opening only one side of the rim. Most importantly the offset side, this way, you don't have the holes of the spokes underneath the rim tape letting air trough when pumping. will leave them overnight on 35 PSI and see what it is the result in the morning. could hear any hissing after rotating the wheels for some time.
Dan Davison mentioned using rubber bands around the tire but that mad me remember an old trick we used on motorcycle and atv tires when they wouldn't go on. We would take an old tiedown (ratchet type seemed to work better) and put it all the way around the tires and snug it up then start adding the air and those stubborn tires would pop right on. never needed to do that with a bicycle tire but I've never done a tubeless conversion yet either.
another awesome vid. Thanks GMBN, I normally kick back after work with a jug of water and watch stuff on UA-cam, and yours is some of the best 👍 BTW RYDER a South African cycling tools and accessories manufacturer makes a great foot pump called the "RYDER Air Tank" it's a normal foot / floor pump with an air tank built into the vertical piston housing. The presta / schrader valve adapter has an inline shutoff valve. So to seat a tyre, you pump the "pump" up to 240psi, connect it to the wheel's valve and open the shutoff valve, and the tank discharges a few gallons of air into the Tyre in an instant. Same effect as a CO2 bomb. works real nice for me so far
Thanks a lot. This video gave me the confidence to give it a go and yesterday I converted to tubeless at home with very little fuss. I wasn't able to get the tyres to seat as my floor pump is a bit dodgy, but luckily I have a Presta to Schrader valve adapter so a quick trip to the nearest petrol station and I was done.
Now that is one nice shop!
ma
Great video as always thank you. Just done mine now. An Airshot pump made it so much easier to get the tyres to seal. Instant pop- pop then undo the valve core and reinflate. Shook the fluid around lots and went for a quick ride.
Great video. I followed this when converting to tubeless for the first time. Worked a treat. Cheers GMBN.
Went tubeless this month never going back
Thanks GMBN
I just did lol
you can also pull a tie-down down tight around the circumference of the tire to force the bead out to the rim while you pump the first bit of air in
Great video. Thanks to these tips i got my conversion done in ~20 mins without any leakage or problems. And that was with a pretty low volume track-pump. Helped a little that my tyres pretty much held the seal even without any milk to begin with...
The inner tube tip is definitely worth to be tried! Thanks guys 👌🚴
the don thank you so much for simplifying the whole tubeless set up
PREPARE YOUR RIM
Nice one Neil, just convinced me to switch to tubeless
You may have mentioned it, but I have an air compressor, set it at 50psi. filled up the tire without the sealant, and both beads set. Now I will go back and fill it with sealant.
Thanks, that tip when the tire doesnt fit helped alot👍
My maxxis dhr2 wouldn't seal the bead so I had to install an inner tube first and that worked.
Thanks for the tip
Hi Guys
I have done a few conversions myself. The first one I did was with a 24" inner-tube that functioned as my "rim-tape" (you cut it open) on a 29" rim; works like a charm seeing the sealant seals very nice with rubber on rubber then.
Thanks so much for the advise regarding the popping of the Bead. Good tips and will defo's come in handy in the future!
Top Channel!
Albert de Vries This is a good method. I use 20" Schwalbe inner tubes. Even the Schrader valve ones have metal threaded valve stems.
It would be nice to see another video, that goes in depth about problems seating the tube.
thnanks for all the tips the extra rimtape did the trick
For those who asked how often you need to add sealant. I have to add more every three months. I ride in the desert it gets a bit hotter here and the thorns. So many thorns when I replace my tires.
Soapy water around the outside bead area of the tire helps it to inflate. Also, can use a belt around the tire to help the bead to seal
About to change my first tubeless tyre so I hope it’s a FAF to get on.
great video and also great channel, I just switched to tubeless, tomorrow I'll ride tubeless for the first time!!
Great video, I have had success sealing a tubeless tire with a hand pump. This is only when refilling the sealant though. I've found it easier to do when adding the sealant through the valve core because you don't have to completely break the bead. I recommend doing this with the bike on a stand though because then there's no pressure on the tire and again helps the tire maintain that bead even when it doesn't have air in it. Thank you for all the videos you do, they're awesome!
Much easier than I thought, I got it first try. Thanks for the video.
Reminds me of working in quickfit when those tyres pop lol, they should've brought out tubeless years ago !!
If GMBN visits places I'd really want them to come to my school because there r some people interested but have no idea what they do so if neil,Blake and Scott comes they can teach us some stuff
This guy looks like the Richard Hammond of mountain bikes.
Oh shitt hello from the future 😳😳
He looks more like Gary Neville to me.
What an insult to this guy he’s great
Thanks, after a few of your videos. Convinced to go tubeless as mtb already fitted with tubeless rims. 🤔😉
Splendid video, specially everyone's favourite part at 5:52, which magically vanished from the video :-D
So recently brought my first proper bike (santa Cruz 5010) was led to believe it was tubeless but it wasn't had to make it so after a puncture so again thanks for the help!
Thank you for this! Thought it was going to be way more complicated and expensive but after watching it was really quite straight forward to do :D
just converted my tires to tubeless using this video. first try was VERY messy ! second try was better and second wheel was rather quick. pro tip if you don't know what you're doing: pick a lot of rim tape. there's barely enough tape to do 3 or 4 wheels.
Fourth video I've seen on this channel. Fantastic job in every case :)
Thanks for putting videos like this together, really helped me to set up tubeless.👍🏼
Thanks. Great vid. Having a crack at mine in the morning after two many pinch flats.
Glad you have done a video about this I was just asking whether it's a good choice to go tubeless
Great, clear instructions. Proper English accent. Strange that the subtitles use some US spellings.
Great clip, everything worked first time!
nice one!
sealed first time on my 27.5+ tyres using a footpump. birng on the trails!
Recently I have been binge watching your videos there amazing
Great to hear :)
cs's workshop same
That compressor though!
The inner tube trick!!!! I wish I watched this video 2 hours ago!!!!
Just found this channel....what a great video....clear, to the point and very helpful.....👍👍👍
Thanks your trick with the tube really works
i just went tubeless :-) front only but without any problems, rear is coming in tomorrow!
pro advice, if the tire do not seal by itself, do not add sealant! or else just like me you will make some mess only, in other words i was unable to transfer rear wheel to tubeless.
The tube method worked for me to seat the bead. And Assegai DH casing so not very pliable!
Gonna give this a shot, thank for making such an awesome video, gives confidence that I can get it done
I love it thanks so much u explained it so well I haven't went tubless yet but want to!
Amusingly the stan's no tubes flow ex rims are the WORST for tubeless conversion. See at 3:00 on the video, you can clearly see the vent hole in the right side of the rim (not covered by tape). They put the vents near the edge of the rim where they are really hard to seal. So even though the spoke holes to seal you end up with a leak. Typically the air comes out the stem.
I recommend any other rim without vent holes at the outside edge.
Prince Kabeya
Ntalaja
I've found that if I'm having trouble getting the bead to seat and the tire to inflate using a floor pump, pressing down on the tire above the stem while pumping with the other hand gets it going faster- I imagine that's because there's less volume which makes it easier to inflate
Excellent easy to follow instructions
Thanks mate - great vid! I'm new to tubeless - so this was a godsend :)
+adventurecraig we wouldn't run anything else, glad we helped!
Great video, very specific. Easy to follow, very clear. Thanks mate
Brilliant instructions - quick and clear, ta!
I haven't done this before... Does it work with every MTB rim and with "tubeless ready" tyres (maxxis high roller II) ?
I absolutely love the channel by the way, it really helps me to improve my riding exprerience ! Thanks
+Chiche Capon Thanks, yes it should. Neil
Global Mountain Bike Network do I need a specific tyre
I'm going with tube but i also put a anti flat band in yeah it makes the tire heavier but i've never got a problem with punctures. I use my hardtail in city conditions (sometimes smashed bottles etc)
I rode in South Texas where mesquite trees have nasty thorns. Tried the anti flat band in the tires with double thick tubes. Didn't work and the weight was very noticeable. I would have went tubeless if I had stayed down there any longer.
Bloody dislikers how did they managed to get here. This video is a Top 10 in UA-cam's MTB greatest how-to's. Thanks GMBN for the job well done there. All covered for a clean tubeless work!
Did my first tubless today. Used tube in tyre overnight at 50psi after raping the rim. Worked out well so far. Beads sitting nicely and syringed Stans Sealant easy in.
Will ride it soon to see how it all went 👍.
I hope you missspelled
Loving this channel! So much good info and filmed very well.
all your vids are superb. thanks for all that effort...
Good explanation , with thanks.
Using lots of soapy water is a very good tip.
BGUK can i ask if my rim is not non tube i can fix??
At least from what i have heard, you should not use co2 to inflate tubeless tires because it will freeze the sealant making it useless. Never tired it though. Also another way to get the tire to seat is to run soapy water around the bead and then go at it with a track pump. I have gotten tires on this way no problems.
Eddie Ah Kee I understand the concept of the issue with CO2 freezing but as long as you have the valve at the top of the rim and the fluid at the bottom of the tyre the co2 wouldn't freeze the fluid. Im not sure it would in a worst case scenario either to be honest. I've used co2 loads of times and never had an issue.
daniel fay Fair enough, like i said i have never actually tried it. It may have just been with some of the homemade sealants that you cant really do that with or something.
Cheers Neil! Helped me loads 👌🏼
This is what i was waiting for
Top video. Hope it's that easy when I do it!
I went tubeless last week and at first it didnt pump up at first so i went on a rage and left it the 20 minutes later i tryed it again this time while using a track pump it went up fine
Is it possible to convert a aluminum double wall rim with a schrader valve to tubeless? As I need my bike to commute to work. I have had a couple of punctures caused by nails. I would very much appreciate some advice about going tubeless. I find GMBN videos very useful and informative, I have learned so much about keeping my MTB in top condition and riding tips for enjoying mountain biking. Thank you.
Hi Declan, It's possible to get Schrader tubeless valves. Check this video Doddy did over on GMBN Techgmbn.tech/ubeless101
Any chance of making a how to grease/replace pivots/bearings.
Also greasing BB.
Cheers
do a comparison vid of tubeless vs tubs please!
Use an old inner tube and squish the tyre using the deflated rubber so it sits on the rim.
Brilliant video - thanks GMB!
Can I do this with normal tyres, like for example "MAXXIS Ranchero" ?
What are the pros and cons ?
like a charm! doing less with more and keeping it real!