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Setting your Z offset the easy way in Marlin
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- Опубліковано 22 лис 2017
- Note: this method works best with setting the first layer height as 0.2mm
Also, if you can't move your nozzle below 0 in the Move Z menu, send the following GCode command to your printer from Pronterface or Repetier Host or from the Terminal tab in octoprint:
M211 S0
this will disable MIN Software Endstops.
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Just what I was looking for. An easy simple way to accomplish the exact Z height adjustment. No fuss method just worked great for my home brewed corexy. Thank you for your effort. It sure is highly appreciated!
Already started smashing my printer before seeing this. You, Sir have saved my printer's life.
Something similar happened to me, I lowered the offset a lot and I create chafing on the bed
I don't understand much English I hope I can adjust
💀💀💀
THANK YOU. I just installed a BLTouch and was going absolutely mad trying to figure out how to do Z-offset. You explained this so simply.
Happy to help :)
Thank you man, still a helpful video 5 years later. I'm a first time printer. I kept getting a positive number for the Z offset value and I new it couldn't be right. Every manual and video had me just inputting the new value instead of adding it to the old offset number. My first 5 prints were off of the table. I tried slowing down the print and baby stepping and knew that it wasn't a long term solution. I'm in hour into the test print that came with my printer and it's been smooth sailing.
Your video is still helping people 3½ years later... Thank you. (Marlin has changed in the meantime, but it's easy to figure out what to do.)
For some reason I can’t find how to permanently set up my z offset there is no setting for that can you help me
@@camdendunne3102 When you get a Z offset that works for you, you need to save it to the printer memory, otherwise you lose it when the power is cycled. As every Marlin build can be different, there's no guarantee that it's in the same place on my printer as on yours. It should be near your Z offset tuning, but if not you may need to search. The menu item you're looking for is "Store settings".
@@Gorf1234 I clicked “store settings” and nothing changed I still have the same problem
The thing is the option itself to change Z-offset is missing from mine. Wonder how to do it without it. Storing in memory works fine, but I first need to set the offset somehow.
@@n1xan Where did you get your Marlin? It's possible you may need to install another build. Marlin builds can have menu options available in various places. For my printer, the Marlin build has the Z Offset and Store Settings options enabled in two places each. I think you need to seek help on the Facebook page.
l found the reason the Z axis won't go below zero is because there is a command line "MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z" (on line 1120 for my CR-10S example file) of Marlin 2 point whatever. If you are familiar with Marlin and enabling/disabling firmware commands, and you're reloading firmware for a bed leveling device anyway, that command can be disabled with two slashes. Once disabled you can move the Z axis below zero.
Yep this has been my ongoing issue. Once I figured out how to build my own firmware, I was finally able to fix it.
Finally!!! Thank you!!! It took me almost three days to get my Z offset to work properly. I have watched almost every video I could find and this was the one that got it working! Thank you very much!!
Thank you! followed the Pronterface guides but wasnt happy with the result, this was much easier, good work!
I was manually tweaking my Marlin settings and sending up new codes. Was a complete waste and pain. There had to be a better way. Thank you for this video. I just recently upgraded my lowly Anet A8 to run marlin from skynet and was able to find all the same settings albeit diff locations within the menu but all there nonetheless. This video worked perfectly. First print off after adjustment was flawless. No elephant foot, first layer height stuck no problem. Again, thank you, thank you for posting.
Thanks a lot ! I was thinking about giving up auto leveling. You're a life savior
Used the M211 S0 command via Pronterface to disable the software endstops first. Finally got my built from scratch i3 MK2 custom clone printing! Thanks for this great video.
man thanks fo the tip i am builing the same machine :D
Thanks so much, I think this will let me more easily switch between PLA and PETG, which often needs a slightly different Z offset to get proper bed adhesion and a good first layer.
Sam, I wasn't aware the Z offset needs changing depending on filament type. What changes do you make depending on which you plan to use at the time?
Thank you for saving my day. I'm in troubles with the Z offset these days :D
Ive been fighting with my 3d printer for so long thank you so much
Much easier than other videos! Thanks.
2:17 I had to go Control > Bed Leveling then Z Offset. Then when I get there an only adjust in tenths. Marlin 1.1.2. I should update... Thanks for all your precious time, helped!
New sub here...
Thank you very much! I was stick after upgrading with cr touch + sprite pro. ❤ You are awesome!
didnt work the fist time, but worked the second time. thanks!
Why would you edit the full calibration, you cut the part I wanted to know about. Does the paper need to be pinned down (cannot move) or just touching? Does after it’s pinned down RDO you raise it .5 or .1 ?
Finally got my new board flashed and printed the bracket.
Now to wire it in.
Hi another Newbie. Sorry. But i have had my printer now i 3 weeks and still strugeling with the Z.
I done like you advice in your video but when i go to offset it saunds a short alarm and write (Err: to far!) It wount let me ajust.?
Any advice is so welcom at this time.
Kind regards
Tobias
For some reason my printer is refusing to go below 0.5 for the z offset even though I changed the line for min Software endstops
The printer refuses to go lower than your z-stopper. So if the z-stopper gets activated when you try to lower it further, it wont do it.
Realized about a half hour ago that I'm going to have to make a "voltage divider" to knock the 12V line down to 5V before I can actually install it.
Dunno when I'll make it to the parts store for a couple of resistors.
Thanks for this, really helped me out!
Happy to help ^-^
Great video... Quick question, my BIQU B1 has a very high Y axis when I started this process. I ended up with -10.9 and if I add it to the current offset that is -1.5, I will end up with -12.4, That will be a forever change on the Y offset, and I believe that will be a problem with the max numbers. The printing bed is already at a good hight and it will not go higher without releasing the springs too much. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Thank so much you are a life saver! I was ready to smash my printer!
3years ago video and still helpful
Congratulations. You're the first person I've seen that mentions the nozzle being in the wrong location and does not tell people to pre-heat the nozzle and bed.
Thanks. Technically there is one scenario when you probably should preheat the bed and the nozzle. If you're using a capacitive sensor, the temperature can affect how far away it triggers, so it may not be as accurate, but for an inductive sensor like I used in this video, it really shouldn't matter.
@@RemainIndoors That's is true, but capacitive sensors go crazy with just about anything, so I would imagine it's the least used sensor, with with the highly advertised BLtouch and clones being the most common.
@@siveonfarcloud4190 True true. Back around the time I made this video, I know the TH3D EZABL sensor was fairly popular to install on CR10s, and at the time, he made those with Capacitive sensors because people were afraid to get rid of the glass bed on their CR10. I haven't kept up with it to be honest, so that may have changed now. But, you are absolutely right about that.
this was the video i needed and you did a great job! thanks
Hi! My Marlin doesnt have Z Offset under motion, how do I get that?
run a FW update
Mario Gayoso i don't see this menu...
Quiet easy explaination
Hello, I can't go to the plus in the z offset setting, can you help me?
this worked great..thanks..easy simple and convenient..once i get squiggly lines on first layer i just manually adjust th z offset .1mm at a time until looks ok..however my marlin version does not have a store settings feature..it shows store memory...is this same? when i hit store memory nothing happens visually on the screen
I believe it's the same, but you can verify that by turning the printer off and on again then looking at your z offset to make sure it kept your changes.
thanks ...off subject but my opinion on auto leveling is that its more trouble than its worth..creates more issues and not good for the z motors since they run 100% of the time on all prints...i have 2 anet a8 one with auto leveling and one without..and i prefer the one without auto leveling since it has less downtime and no extra wear and tear on the z motors..people dont realize that with auto levling the z motors run 100% of the time..not good....i believe in keeping things simple since it creates less headaches and future issues..and auto leveling is not desirable in my opinion...i do not believe in lazy convenience features over reliability..ill take simple and reliable over convenience every day of the week...fancy gizmos=problematic ..look at your fancy new cars and applainces etc etc...too many issues due to too many fancy "convenience" features that fail..and cause other issues or non operational issue becasue of the "convenience" feature.:)..to me convenience does not mean break downs lol
Which height difference between nozzle and probe? thanks
This is in the video description, but... if you can't move your nozzle below 0 in the Move Z menu, send the following GCode command to your printer from Pronterface or Repetier Host or from the Terminal tab in octoprint:
M211 S0
this should disable MIN Software Endstops if your firmware is setup to allow it.
It doesn't work
I am just trying to move my z axis up a bit. It seems when I control motion... it is not moving. What do I need to do to fix this?
Current Marlin has soft end stops enabled. You will not be able to lower the Z less than 0. You need to disable it first on ponterface.
How do you do that?
@@R.D.G.C.
gcode command: M211 S0
This will disable MIN Software Endstops.
When I do that code it makes it so that I can go negative but it still won't move when I go positive it will go down though
Newbie here.... How can I store it if there is No Z Offset listed under Control? (Sorry..I am new to this all..)
You probably don't have Marlin installed, it's an option only available with the new firmware installed.
you might need to update your firmware
Marlin on the stock Ender 3 board is somewhat limited. You can re-flash your current board to add mesh leveling though. You can also update to a newer control board like the MKS Gen L V1.0 which has enough memory to handle all that Marlin can offer.
@@TechGorilla1987 Hi, I had to upgrade the boar to MKS Gen L v1.0 and TFT 28 display I fried both the originals ;(, but I don't have the menus for the Z offset anymore, do you know how to get then in the TFT28? I am using the latest Marlin.
@@manolo5104 You have to modify the configuration.h file and enable bilinear bed leveling festure. Dont forget to put Save homming and define sensor offsets and travel limits. Thats all
I don't have the z-offset option with my ender 3. All my prints are starting from z axis at 0.3 so doesn't even touch the bed and doesn't stick. Please help
How can that be used for the artillery sidewinder x2
You utter beauty, thanky ou so much.
Thanks for the video. How do you adjust the x,y,z auto leveling speed?
Ya tried even hit store settings and it it didn’t save the settings and when I tried the level bed option rammed the point down into the bed and had to relevel the whole nozzle
Legend, thank you! I've been chasing my tail wondering why the Z offset on my Tronxy X3a didn't seem to do what I expected, now I see why :D
Edit- one question, when my machine does its bed level routine, it does a much smaller grid pattern than the actual bed size, towards the front left. Is there a way to configure this so the whole bed is checked? Thanks.
I don't have an auto leveler installed, but my mirlin doesn't seem to have a "z offset" button.
hey I have 2 n stops and a bltouch. so my homing is done using the n stops and not the bl touch. how can I set the z height using bltouch? cause I mean my nozzle with be about level with the bed when using the n stops!
Hi could you help, there is no video on youtube how to lower the bed and store the settings.After installing E3D V6 hot end install on Tronxy_X5S 1.6 firmware
Hi, I don't own a Tronxy X5S unfortunately, but you may want to check out this guy's video(s) ua-cam.com/video/TFkCa2scdyo/v-deo.html
it looks like he's updated the firmware on his printer and you may need to do that for the E3D V6 to make sure your hot end is using the correct thermistor. Without the printer to play around with, the best I can do is guess at the moment.
I have little problem you guys can help me I got the cr10s with BLTouch everytime I hit auto leveling it goes in the middle of the bed and goes up like it said on the video but when It goes down its starting too get knocking sounds all I wanna too know whats doing that please help im new on this
I have a touchscreen on my tevo tarantula and I don’t have those options, how do i set and see what the offset is on it right now?
hi iv just done mine your way this is what it came up with with paper plus +1.2 offset was -2.353 op to yours so do i still add them or - away
I don't have a Z Offset Option on my Ramps LCD. Also, I don't have a proximity sensor on my printer. is this the reason behind the missing "Z Offset" option on ramps? If not, how can I bring it on my screen? Thx
Right, this video is purely for setting the Z offset if you have an auto bed leveling sensor. Without some sort of auto bed leveling setup, you have to level your bed manually, so there's no point in having a Z offset option.
Didnt know these capacitor probes also work with metal sheets, is there anything they cant do? glass maybe?
hy, im having some trouble with temperature, if i got my bed more warm, the measure changes, what could it be?
I don't know if I'm doing it right. I'm installing the BLTouch on my Ender 3 Max. Set the default Z offset to (-2.00). Then move the Z-axis and calculate it with a piece of paper; got (-110.0). So now I am supposed to change back the Z offset to -112???? From fricking -2.00. That's a lot of turning. Honestly don't really know if this is right or not. It's now the 2nd day of trying to install the BLTouch on the Ender 3 Max. It's really hard, there are so many problems coming my way.
no, definitely shouldn't be -112. I think marlin limits the Z offset to a max range of like -4 to +4 or something. you can change that, but I think that's the default if I remember correctly. Did you home all axis before you started trying to follow this video? if so, your Z axis should end up about 10mm above the bed (or whatever Z axis clearance is set in the configuration.h file). and your LCD screen should read that you're about 10mm up. then when you lower the z axis with the piece of paper, it should only have to go down a little bit. If your BLTouch never lowered down and touched the bed when you tried to Home all axis, then that's a different problem that needs to be worked out first
Should the z offset be the same thicness as my feeler gauge?
Ender 3 pro doesn't go below 0 for move 😥. Anyone running into the same problem?
Yea, Marlin 2 here so yours may different on location of this settings. I made my Motion/Bed Leveling/Prob Z Offset a little more offset, mine was something like -1.86, I made it -2.00 that then allowed me to touch the bed at +000.3 backed it off to +000.4, I set my offset to -1.6. I will see if that works. There is probably a way to change this via terminal or firmware change?!
Im not sure if youre still having this issue but check the video description there's a solution for that
i don't have control > z offset in my lcd, would be usefull knowing the version of marlin you where running
sorry for the late reply, but I have another couple of videos where I installed an auto bed leveling sensor with an Arduino Nano on my CR-10. It's Marlin 1.1.6, and there's a download link for the firmware I used if you're interested: ua-cam.com/video/UtoF3Vs9YhI/v-deo.html
*Pls HELP: Want to adjust z offset*
i do
G28
M211 S0(so i can go below 0)
Adjust my z axis(let say I want it to be -0.125)
m428(to save all offsets)
m500
m501(shows i have successfully saved it X:0 Y:0 Z:-0.125)
*but when I home again I expect it be -0.125mm below the actual position. which it doesn't. The nozzle stays at 0,0,0. But if do M501 it still shows my nozzle position to be at X:0 Y:0 Z:-0.125*
*why is the nozzle not going down by -0.125mm even though it has been written on EEPROM*
I'm not 100% sure I follow, but the idea behind changing your Z offset is that your nozzle's position should be different when it reaches Z:0 So, let's pretend my nozzle is 5 mm above the bed when my printer is at X:0 Y:0 Z:0. I follow the steps in this video to change my Z offset to -5, then I store my settings in EEPROM. The next time I do a Home All Axis and lower my nozzle to 0, it should no longer be 5mm above the bed. it should be at actual 0. The printer will still show X:0 Y:0 Z:0 but the position of the nozzle will be 5 mm lower than it was before. Does that make sense?
@@RemainIndoors
thankx for a quick reply mate...i got u there....and that's what happens...my nozzle position changes only when i try to adjust it (with paper under nozzle method).
*So earlier if my nozzle is 2mm above the bed, after adjusting it, it gets to 0mm above the bed(same what u said).
Then i save the coordinates with m428 and followed by m500...
Then when i auto home it shows my location as (X:0 Y:0 Z:-2)...
But the nozzle still remains at 2mm above the bed.*
**Confused**
Do let me know if u got any idea.
thanks again mate
@@armancodeq3642 gotcha, I see what you're saying now. that is weird. I'm guessing you don't have the Z Offset in your printer's menu? I looked in the firmware for my printer and it looks like the Z Offset menu is using M851 to set the Z Probe's offset. If you don't have the option from your printer directly, you may want to try testing changing the z offset with that. Make sure you store your settings in EEPROM after changing them too.
@@RemainIndoors
ya i dont have z offset probe option....is that because I'm not using any z probe sensor???
@@armancodeq3642 Are you not using any kind of auto bed leveling setup? Kind of the whole purpose of this video is Setting your Z offset for an Auto Bed Leveling sensor. If you're just using a normal endstop and leveling your bed manually, you would normally just adjust the height of your bed or the height of your endstop.
How do I store z offset settings 10mm above where the BLTouch auto bed level sets Z to for first layer?
Perfect. Great video. Thank you!
Please help! Every video says to go below 0 on the Z axis but mine won't go below 0. The nozzle stops at 0 and is still about a mm away from the bed
see the video description, it explains how you can lower your z axis below 0. You'll have to hook up your printer to your computer or octoprint, or some way that lets you send GCode commands to your printer
My new problem is the store settings doesn’t work. How do I fix that?
Okay so I can go to -40 on my z axis but I'm using a delta style printer and I need to go much farther any ideas?
After homing when I try to touch z axis doesn't matter if i press up or down the z goes straight up until it hits the top support
sounds like that might be a setting in the firmware. normally if it's just an issue of the endstop being inverted, the sensor will move up a couple mm then stop, but if it's traveling all the way to the top of the Z axis, maybe it's trying to home at the top instead of the bottom?
This method doesnt work with the Ender 5 pro and the latest marlin updates. Also doesnt consider BLTouch.
I don't know what machine you're using but my NEW Ender 5 Plus doesn't have any of those critical options available on my screen. If it did I would have solved my problem long ago.
it's a CR-10 with Marlin 1.1.7 installed on it. some 3d printer manufacturers disable some of those menu items to save space on the mainboard. There are other ways of accomplishing the same thing by hooking your printer up to a computer and manually sending GCode commands, but if your printer came with an auto bed leveling sensor already installed, you may want to search for other videos that explain how to do that for your printer.
@@RemainIndoors I've been watching videos until my eyes bleed. They all say the same thing but my printer won't accept any terminal commands using either Pronterface or Matter Control. I'm wondering if the firmware is corrupted.
@@ramtek2702 I imagine you've already watched this video: ua-cam.com/video/zSOVAdKw4ss/v-deo.html I looked through a few of the comments on there and that seems to be a pretty common complaint, which sucks. What I would do if I were in your situation is look to see if there's a Facebook group specifically for that printer, because I've found that's the best place to find other people who have figured out how to fix issues that I can't figure out. I don't own an Ender 5 Plus, so I can't be much help. sorry.
@@RemainIndoors I've tried to watch that video but the kids English makes it nearly useless. They don't really cover the right content anyway. I'll try FB. Thanks.
I just want to know how to reset the damn CR-10 V1 to factory settings. Somehow a z-offset was applied and I can't figure out how to reset everything. This should be simple yet I can't get a straight answer anywere???
if your printer's menu doesn't have a Factory Reset option anywhere in it, you can try hooking up your printer to a computer and sending the GCode M502 for Factory Reset and M500 to Save the settings.
HELP...got a geetech a10 using Marlin 1.1.8 when i hit "Auto Home" it goes directly to the left-hand corner. Then when i start to print it centers on the bed but the nozzle raises about 50mm. Thank You in advance to any one that provides help
I have the same issue, still no answer :S
i tried this but i get a err: to far when i press Z of set? Why
Nice and concise
Hi there, thank you for the video. if I don't have z offset in my menu, what should I do please?And I don't have any chip (arduino or ..) to program it.
You should get an arduino and upgrade the software on your mainboard with it.
Z axis won’t let me go negative, any answers?
REALLY, REALLY, REALLY helpful video, thanks for the information, the creality videos are next to useless, especially running TH3D...
Where can I find the same settings on TH3D?
@@DigiVore.official Dude, the video shows how, its been a long time, I use a SKR E3 Mini v2 now soooo... maybe check out CHEP on youtube? that dude is helpful too
@@nickstubbings I made my firmware incorrectly, just ended up going to vanilla marlin, works perfect now, almost perfectly dialed in. Sorry matey
Hmm I seem to get an error saying to far
My CR10 V3, starts at 0, when homed, even though it's 10. So, I'd have an offset of -11ish. Can't find a solution
So, the firmware is setup to lift the nozzle up 10mm after homing, but the nozzle stays at 0? or does the display say it's at 0 when the nozzle is actually 10mm above the bed? Is it homing in the middle of the bed? And sorry if this is a dumb question, you are using an Auto Bed Leveling sensor right? I believe some people have tried to follow this video with a normal endstop, so always good to ask
Nice video. One thing though when I auto home, the hot end just goes to the 0,0 corner. It does not go to the center like yours does, why is that.
there's a setting in the firmware that changes it to that. Are you using an auto-bed-leveling sensor? normally you would set it up to go to the middle to make sure the sensor is above the bed instead of hanging off the edge, because if it doesn't sense anything, your nozzle will crash. Without that you're relying on mechanical endstops to tell the hotend when to stop moving, so it doesn't matter where it homes on the bed, and it has to go back to 0,0 anyway, so just faster to home there.
@@RemainIndoors Makes sense. Yes, I am using a CR Touch, similiar to a BL Touch. The nozzle does not crash as the home position is off the bed since I installed a direct drive, but the Z is going too far and the steppers grind after using the ABL probe.
I guess this means I need to compile marlin myself.
@@zk_6312 yeah, I haven't done much with 3D printer mods in a few years at this point, so I'm sure things have changed by now, but it's usually pretty easy to do as long as there's a bootloader on your printer's mainboard
great vid! thanks a lot!!! so when i have +1,4 and second 2.20 what will be the correct value? = -0,80
hi, after G28 command, when bump X axis endstop ,probe outstanding hotbed. its same with my printer. your video nozzle goes center of bed before homing z . Which command used for this op?
That's a setting in the firmware called Z_SAFE_HOMING. the printer does that automatically.
+1👍 after about 4 vids, this one made me sub 💪
lol welcome aboard.
For some reason, I cannot lower it into the negatives. How can I fix this? I am on Marlin 2.0. using Cura.
Thanks
One option is mentioned in the video description: if you can't move your nozzle below 0 in the Move Z menu, send the following GCode command to your printer from Pronterface or Repetier Host or from the Terminal tab in octoprint:
M211 S0
this will disable MIN Software Endstops.
Or, you can manually adjust your sensor up a little bit (carefully though, to make sure your nozzle doesn't crash into the bed) That way you would have to change the z-offset to + numbers instead.
I am having the same issue with geeetech 83 pro b printer. Did you end up figuring it out?
Hi, I hope you read this. I'm trying to adjust the z offset but I can't go below zero ( I have an ender 3 Pro). What is going on? How can I fix this?
Thanks a lot for the video!
It's a configurable setting in the firmware called MIN Software Endstops. You can usually disable it by manually sending commands to your printer from your computer. otherwise you would have to update your firmware.
See below from the video description:
if you can't move your nozzle below 0 in the Move Z menu, send the following GCode command to your printer from Pronterface or Repetier Host or from the Terminal tab in octoprint:
M211 S0
this will disable MIN Software Endstops.
thanks
does this setting work with octoprint or do i have to calibrator the z axis every time i start a print thro octoprint
After you click on "Store Settings" the z offset is stored to your printer, so whether you're printing from octoprint or an SD card, the z offset will be stored, and your auto bed leveling routine will follow that.
thank you so much the video was vary helpful
My z hight just stops at zero. How do you go past zero?
My printer runs Marlin, but doesn't have this Z-offset setting in the Control/Motion menu.
yeah, this video is pretty old. I haven't updated my firmware in at least 6 years so it's possible that option doesn't exist anymore. if I ever get around to updating my firmware, I might look into making a new video.
good quick tip . thank you
Great video! I have a question. I had to disable soft endstops via 211 s0 to be able to lower my z offset. If I change the z offset via 851 zxx and then reenable soft endstops via 211 s1, Will the soft endstops stop the z axis from lowering down to the number I changed it to? Would I always have to keep them disabled?
Thanks. Nice thing is after you change your Z offset and run Auto-home again, your printer will view Z = 0 with the new updated Z offset value factored in. so even if you re-enabled software endstops, you should be good, until you need to change your Z offset again
Does this work the same for the Lulzbot Taz 6 with Marlin firmware? I'm using a 0.8mm nozzle printing at 0.6mm layer height. I have been having troubles printing consistently because it seems like the z-offset is arbitrary. One day -1.6 is the magic number and then -1.9 becomes the magic number. Recently, I've adjusted it and then visually determined if it's working well, but I would definitely prefer to calibrate it so that it can be the same for most layer heights and so on.
p.s. the firmware was a recent change since the new cura 2.6.66 software came out. Before this was never an issue. Maybe it's something to do with the lack of wiping the old settings? Any suggestions are welcome! Thanks!!
yeah, you may want to try what I suggested to Boyd Crowder's comment to load up the default settings from the firmware. it's hard to say if the previous Marlin settings could be affecting your new settings, but that does cause problems for some people. And, yes It should work the same for the Lulzbot Taz 6 assuming the Marlin firmware has the MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS line commented out like this:
//#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS
that's what lets you lower your nozzle below 0mm
When the firmware is flashed / updated, will the Z-offset have to be reset? a) Will the whole process have to be repeated, or b) can one simply reenter the number which had been the Z-offset prior to the firmware upgrade?
That would depend on what's changed in the firmware. I believe the configuration.h file does (or used to) have something that affects the Z offset. If you're just flashing the same firmware with something unrelated changed, you could try just entering the same value, but I'd still be cautious trusting it when you first print something.
so I keep trying this but no matter what I seem to do it seems like the BL touch is still keeping my nozzle like .2mm too high so when I start any print it just ends up curling and dragging on the nozzle instead of applying nice and firm to the bed... wondering if you have any tips on how to fix this?
when you slice your files, what are you setting as your first layer height?
@@RemainIndoors .2mm for all layer heights is what I usually use. I was able to fix the problem by just trial and error..ing.. the z offset until it was close enough to the bed. so its good now! lol
How come my cr-10 doesnt have all those extra menu settings? Do I need to change the firmware to get to that motion menu?
Yeah, if you're using somebody else's firmware for the CR-10 you may not have all of the same menus. I made a video explaining how to burn the bootloader and write firmware to work with my Nano Bed Leveling system here: ua-cam.com/video/UtoF3Vs9YhI/v-deo.html there's a different version of the firmware in the video description which has these menus.
Thanks, was helpful!
How did you make the 5 numbers to 4 numbers?
Thank you for this video! I only have 1 question: I calibrated the Z-offset like you dit on my Tevo Tarantula Pro. But when i start the print, the nozzle is still floating far too high above the print bed. babystepping to the right height works, but i want it to start on the right height (ofcourse...) Where can I fix this?
have you found the answer?
bro I think I might have. In my Gcode i added M420 S to enable bed level data and now it works fine,
If Z axis move to 10mm distance after auto homing, your off set would be -12.5 instead of -2.5? Am I correct
it depends. if the firmware is setup to have a probe clearance of 10mm, it will raise an additional 10mm off the bed after it's done homing. And you can verify that by looking at the Z position on the printer's LCD screen. it would say 10mm - indicating that the current Z height is 10mm, and you would have to lower it 10mm to reach 0.
Thank you so much!
I ended up engraving my glass with this. Obviously did something wrong but .05 + -2.53 = 2.48 right?
.05 + (-2.53) = -2.48 What's your first layer height in your gcode? a first layer height of 0.2 should work best with this method (for PLA or ABS) if it's setup right.
By chance, do you have the .stl file available for your proximity switch mount?
I've not been able to find that particular file anywhere.
Thank you.
I think it's this one: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4090616 or one just like it. The one on my computer is called EZABLSensorMount and it's from 2017, but I couldn't find that on thingiverse, so it may have come with the downloads when I purchased EZABL from EH3D when Tim Hoogland was getting started (I think that's his name)
@@RemainIndoors Thank you for your prompt response.
This is the closest one I've found to what I need.
My prox switch is 17mm (I got in a hurry buying it) so may have to grind it out a bit to make it fit.
So would this work for me having a sprite extruder pro?
this video is kind of old, so the newer versions of the Marlin firmware may not work exactly the same way. but assuming you have the version of firmware that has these settings, and assuming you have an auto bed leveling sensor, it should work. the type of extruder shouldn't really matter.