HOW TO Level your 3D Printer´s BED Like a PRO / Mesh Bed Leveling
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- Опубліковано 30 лип 2024
- Hi guys :)
If you own a 3D printer and have issues with leveling your print bed, then, this video is for you.
In this video, you can learn how to correctly level your print bed and how to add the “Manual Mesh Bed Leveling” feature in your firmware.
The Mesh Bed Leveling is normally enabled when using a leveling sensor, however, you can use this feature even without any leveling sensor, using the manual option.
To enable it, you will need to flash the firmware in your printer with the changes mentioned in the video.
The basic bed leveling procedure explained in the video can be used in any printer equipped with this type of print bed.
The Manual Mesh Bed Leveling can be used in any printer compatible with Marlin firmware.
♦ If you have the stock Ender 3 board, you will need to disable some lines in the firmware because of the limited programming space.
Here are some recommended lines that you can disable to gain additional programming memory:
In configuration.h
define SHOW_CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN
define CUSTOM_STATUS_SCREEN_IMAGE
define SPEAKER
In configuration_adv.h
define SD_MENU_CONFIRM_START
define STATUS_MESSAGE_SCROLLING
define BABYSTEPPING
define ARC_SUPPORT
♦ For more information about Marlin Firmware, programming memory and the new 2.0 version, check this video:
• 7 Demystified Myths ab...
♦ If you own a Creality Ender3/Ender 5, the firmware installation guide can be seen here:
• Ender3 / Ender3 Pro - ...
♦ To install the firmware in a Tevo Tornado, check this link:
• TEVO TORNADO 3D PRINTE...
♦ To install the firmware in a Tevo Tarantula Pro, check this link:
• TEVO TARANTULA PRO - H...
♦ In our RuiRaptor Thingiverse page, you can find the patterns used in our video to check the leveling.
Also included, you can find the gcode that moves the print head to each corner for the basic leveling procedure.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:442...
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#3DPrinting #MeshBedLeveling #MarlinFirmware - Наука та технологія
First YT channel that explained how is nozzle height calculated. Thank you very much!
Amazing video, truly many lessons i learned and had learned through painful prints. For the longest time i wanted to return my printer because of how warped my bed was but didnt (mostly because it was my baby) and just had to level on the fly and after every print. Even removing the magnetic plate a little too roughly could create a lot of problems. I wish i knew about mesh layering. Thank you and again, great video.
Great instruction vid. Just what I needed as a beginner to 3D printing. Awsome and very well explained. Thank you so much for sharing ! Mario Belgium.
The most complete video about leveling, basically any other video that I've seen it miss something, I only knew it until I saw this video
it went all the way into, "you didn't level it while hot", "some parts are funky from the factory, cut this off", "using warped surfaces anyway, here's how", and "here's the hard way too, for my sadists"
OMG I've watched so many of this videos and none of them explained stuff this well now I can print like a pro thx
I have learned so much! Thanks for all these videos!
Perfectly explained steps, thank you for the video
I'm ordering my 1st printer soon. Looks like a lot to learn before printing.
OMG, your my hero! This is the best bed leveling tutorial I've seen yet. I've been looking for this since I got my Creality CR-10 V2. My printer won't stay level for more than 1 print. I got the BL touch thinking that would fix my problem but no...
Same here i have ender 3. But I think I need to upgrade springs to yellow ones. BTW were you able to fix the problem by now? or any tips that works for you?
Just wow, incredible video!
I have been trying to find out how to do a 16 point mesh bed level. I even asked on user groups. Thank YOU so much!
Thanks for the feedback. Glad it helped.
Excellent explanation sir. Thanks a lot!
Quite helpful.
Keep up the great work
One thing that is working for me is a magnetic machinists dial gauge. I do the paper thing on the top right corner, then crank in +50 mm on Z and attach the dial gauge - then zero the dial. You can scoot this all over the print surface and see exactly how many thousandths off it is everywhere. Super easy to adjust the other knobs as you can watch it on the dial.
One other tip ( I know it seems stupid obvious) is to make sure that the nozzle is absolutely clean when you do the feeler gauge thing. If you have a little blob of plastic sticking out, it will throw the measurements off.
nice, my friend, I was troubling with mesh bed balance Now it is ok to Thank you! thumbs up
Really thanks for your explanation
Thank you so much for this video, i learn more with it.
You my good sir, are a life saver!
great video, great guide on manual mesh leveling
Hi, thanks, glad it helped 🙂
Great video and its running fantastic on my Ender 5
BOA EXPLICAÇAO AMIGO. parabens. continua o trabalho
BEST EXPLANATION EVER
Extremely helpful. Subscribing!
Hi,
thank you. Glad it helped :)
best video ever, thz so much!
Great video
Thank you for content
Nice video thanks!
Excellent job thanks
That's all what we need for newbie !!!
Good video man. Thanks for brazil.
Many thanks to you dear sir
Thanks for this video ;) Take care of you, greetings to Sandra too :)
Thank you Mac, wish you all the best. Stay safe.
This guy speaks the tru tru
Thanks for the video. I have a question. I'm using the newest TH3D Unified 2 firmware (based on Marlin), version 2.12b. It doesn't have the 'Fade Height' option. Not sure if it's set somewhere else or baked in. Appreciate any guidance. Thanks.
after adjusting the z-top, after tightening the screw, do you bring the nozzle down to where it clicks the z-stop, or where it ALMOST triggers ?
awesome
Even though my Tronxy X5SA has auto leveling and 6 bed adjustment hand knobs and manual leveling too, It is a total pain to get the bed leveled to the 0.8 and below height over the bed the system needs? This video I hope will make it easier? Thank you.
Here's what I know. Fact: low-end 3D printers are not equipped to know when the nozzle is too close or too far from the bed. That's why BL Touch found a niche in the 3D printing market place. I don't know much about high-end 3D printers. I know I can't afford one. So, I'm stuck with a low-end printer that's flawed as far as I'm concerned. It gets me wondering. Aren't we in 2021 when all that's technological is supposed to be at its peak. We can build 2-wheeled robots that balance themselves on 2 wheels, but no's come up with a 3D printer whose bed remains level and do this at low cost!
Great!!!!!!
Great video. Do you have a video which explains in more details how to upload this changes in the software onto the printer. Do I need a cable or just an sd card would do?
thnx
Would be nice to have a video with information about extruder and tips how to calibrate all the related to feeding of filament :)
Hi Julian, thank you for the tip. We made one a long time ago which explains that but we plan on making a new one and with more information soon. In the meantime, you can check the video here: ua-cam.com/video/ZfqeTzc3NpM/v-deo.html
@@ruiraptor thank you, I'll take a look. looking forward for the new video
this is the best explenaton for all of the bed leveling videos! i just have a problem the nozzle on the first layer is higher so it doesn't stick to bed, if babay stepped it down, than the next layer will be too close.. how to make the first layer exactly like all other layers ? Thanks! :)
Hi, thanks for the comment.
Regarding the babysteps, probably you have the babysteps steps too high. You can edit the firmware to lower the babysteps increment value.
You don’t need to break the end stop support. There is a software method to adjust the end stops. Adjust the “Babystep Z” and then “Store settings”. That sets the “zero” for the end stop. So the software knows how much to compensate when the limit switch triggers.
Otherwise, great video. You explain things very well. Thanks for putting them out!
Hi Timothy, thanks for your comment.
The purpose of breaking the small piece on the endstop support is to allow the X gantry to go down further than what the endstop would normally allow. This way you can compress the bed springs a bit more and give more stability to the bed. Your method works but only for small adjustments. For bigger adjustments you need to move the endstop down or the X grantry will crash on the endstop.
ruiraptor great info, thanks! I hadn’t heard that explanation before.
Surely Baby Steps are only available on the Ender 3 in the "Tune" menu which in turn is only available while actually printing. It is not a method for setting Z height gap.
Actually even the creapy board of the ender 3 has an unused pin (Pin29) - but you have to solder it in yourself. Of course you can also use the more commonly known Pin27 if your not comfortable to solder (there are adapters to get the signal). With one of these pins set as probe input and a ground pin, you can add a dupond cable and a film probe (made a video, but for the Sidewinder and german only. But maybe the pictures help to understand what I mean: ua-cam.com/video/MPyGt6gpSv8/v-deo.html ). The sensor only is less than $2, including an LED about $4.
It is like a mix between ABL with permanent mounted sensor and an manual mesh. You heat the bed, but nozzle has to keep cool. Than you start the bed leveling. After it is ready you remove the sensor.
You will need to adjust the z-offset of course.
It is much cheaper than an permanent ABL-sensor and much more comfotable than doing an manual mesh.
Sometimes the mash seems not to be loaded or activated after a reset. So adding an M420 S after homing in start gcode does not hurt....
@ruiraptor
What is the best practice (or video) to set where the Ender 3 Pro Auto Home should ideally be? I.e. 0,0,0 lower left corner of bed? Or in the center of the bed? How do you do that? Do you have a easy Z offset video?
Hi Tim,
we have a video for that question.
Please check this: ua-cam.com/video/NiyU1cTTYlM/v-deo.html
Thanks for the video, but what happens to the z limit switch during manual mesh , is it mandatory or printer doesn't need it anymore
Hi, yes you still need the limit switch. The machine needs it to home the Z axis.
Thank you for detailed explanations and step by step tutorials. My problem is, that I can't adjust Bed Z during a print. It just doesn't change anything, -750 or + 750 - the nozzle neither lowers nor raises, so I don't know on how to do something from the Prusa printers is known as Live Z Adjustment.
Hi Jim, if you have the babysteps feature enabled in your (Marlin) firmware, you should have it available in the tune menu while printing. The babysteps feature is the same as the live Z adjustment used in the prusa printers.
Thanks for the video! Will this method with the mesh work on the ender 3 v2? I heard sometimes it doesn’t come setup for this
Hi Sam, yes, it's possible to have the manual mesh to work on the Ender 3 V2. However, for the V2 it's not yet possible to have the menus on this display. The commands need to be sent though pronterface or any other interface.
I have a Geeetech A20 with a glass removable bed. However, whatever I try, I cannot level the bed.
I have tried it following many videos from UA-cam for using the BL Touch and Z Offset, and cannot get a sensible print, where it is stringy and will not stick to the glass. So I try the paper method in each corner, and get the same output, stringy and will not stick to the glass.
Also I have upgraded the firmware to the Mega2560, and still not making any difference with the print.
What and where do I do next??
I have a sunlu s9 plus comes with abl but is not accurate, I want mesh leveling, is there a way that I can add manual mesh leveling and still have but not use abl?
Is this possible for the original Tarantula, or just the Tarantula Pro?
Great explanation. How did you get the "Edit Mesh" option in the Motion menu? I'm using manual mesh leveling in Marlin 2.0.7 - but for manual correction of the z distance of the different points I have to enter gcode via Octoprint/Pronterface for every single point (M421 IX JY Q-0.0X). A graphical interface would be awesome and "Edit Mesh" sounds like it, but I can't find any reference in Marlin documentation.
Hi,
you need to enable the line "define LCD_BED_LEVELING" and "define MESH_EDIT_MENU" to get the menus in the display.
@@ruiraptor Thanks a lot! Did not find this documented. Will test it.
I was told to use a 0.18 mm feeler gauge to get a perfect first layer. So has anyone got and opinion of 0.1 vs 0.18? Lets face it feeling the right amount of drag is pretty subjective.
Hi Peter, 1.8 seems to be a bit thick. Are you using that thickness to level your bed? How is your first layer?
Hey Rui!
I'm having a little trouble. Unfortunately they've made some changes in the Ender Pro v2 that make enabling this harder. Could you provide a couple tips on the changes needed to do this on a v2?
Hi, you can enable the manual mesh leveling on the V2 but you will not have the menus on the display. To trigger the leveling you need to use the PC and send G29 commands.
@@ruiraptor so I assume you uncomment manual bed leveling and restore after g28, but leave lcd bed leveling commented?
Hi, are you going to do a follow up on the Raise printer?
Hi, yes, it's in our plans to do the follow up.
4:42 So let me get this straight. Are you saying, for example, that if my first layer is .15 mm and I use a piece of paper or something like a feeler gauge of .1 mm, the overall gap should be .25 mm?
but, on ender 3 v2, the dwin lcd controller doesn't support lcd_bed_leveling, i get compiler errors if this option is enabled when using an ender 3 v2 config. any alternative option for me?
Hi Jimmy, Manual mesh LCD menus are not working on the V2 display. The alternative would be sending the comands through pronterface.
can yo help me.. why if shut ON my printer and mesh bed leveling has been RESET and i must be Mesh Bed Level again after ON my printer. my setting Mesh Bed leveling cant save, i use STORE SETTING in menu BED LEVELING cant save setting and After ON my printer the setting reset again. please someone can help me. thanks
another tip is to not to touch the bed after you have cleaned it. Skin oils can ruin the adhesion.
Whatever oil on my bed wouldn't come off with 99% iso. I used palmolive and meyers scrub (bonami) on my glass bed. I think it was coming from the silicone boot or something else on the hot end. Months later the boot is all dried and cracking and the prob is gone
Any way of getting Manual Mesh Bed Leveling to work an Ender 3 V2?
Hi, the problem is getting the manual leveling menu on the display. For some reason, the compilation fails when enabling this. We need a bit more time to study this.
@@ruiraptor Many thanks.. I installed a BL Touch but this too isn't working properly on mine and I have no idea why... I disabled it and went back to stock version since it works well as it is out of the box.. Cheers
Hi Rui, just a question, can we add M420 S1 on the start G code? after G28, to save the manual mesh? thanks greetings from South Africa, bom video
Hi Manuel, yes, with Marlin you can add the M420 S1 line on the start gcode.
To level the bed, I believe Creality tells us to home the hot end, then disable the stepper motors to move from corner to corner and raise or lower these as needed. Problem is, when I follow this procedure I can never get the bed level the first time. It was infuriating. Then, I read an article someone wrote on the net. He said to stop using disable stepper motors. So, to move from corner to corner, I had to use the Move command. Doing it this way, I was able to level my bed the first time around! My print is perfect.
I don't believe it is possible to level the bed "first time" because each adjustment of a wheel will affect the height of the bed at the diagonally opposite corner. So you need to go around the bed several times, each correction getting smaller as you go. The solution to this nonsense is to upgrade to a 3 point bed suspension, then you really can get it correct first time. I did that and it is a much better setup altogether.
@@kencroft7933 I believe you're right, because I was only able to do it once. Subsequent attempts failed miserably.
@@kencroft7933 These type of 3D printers have a serious design flaw. I just watched a video about 3-point bed suspensions by Chep on UA-cam. Your mentioning it was the first time I'd heard about it. I can't understand how this mechanism might help though. Forgive me for saying this, but isn't it just another part replacement claimed by some to be better than the stock part. I am, however, inclined to say that the bed mechanism on my Ender 3 V2 3D printer needs improvement or modification. If bed stability was an issue, why did Creality opt for a single centered rail bed support. It doesn't make much sense, because it clearly adds more instability to bed-levelling. Bed-levelling is a frustrating necessity(?) I could do without. The BL Touch was not much help either. Which brings me to the following questions. If the gantry and bed were perfectly parallel, or as close to it as is possible, and ignoring the possibility that a build plate might be warped, why is bed-levelling necessary at all? If the gantry is "perfectly" straight and the build plate is "perfectly" flat, couldn't wobble side-to-side or up and down, would you still need to level the bed? I don't think so, because the nozzle would never be lower or higher to the set position. It would remain at the same height, no? What do you think?
what about compressing the springs all the way? will it be fine or will it damage something?
it will be fine, your bed will not be damaged, a tigher tensioned spring is less likely to shift around. If you dont have a form of auto bed leveling like a bltouch, your gonna need to tweak around the z endstop
@@aguerr211 ok thanks :)
💕👍
I’m having a problem with printing a round surface and makes like a tic tic noise but when I adjust it still there and it only for round surfaces please help discord isn’t helping
4:28 this is the bit that was never explained to me in any bed leveling video.
Glad it helped :)
Why do so many people say to tram the bed exactly one piece of random paper too high? You tram the bet so the nozzle is at zero height not random paper height. Use a feeler gauge and move the z offset up by the feeler gauge thickness then when you have adjusted the bed move the Z offset back down. Beds should be trammed to zero not zero plus a random bit of paper……when you are building a mesh you can use a piece of paper because how thick it is doesn’t matter as long as it’s the same for each mesh point.
Would it be possible to show how to set up Marlin on the tevo nereus? I know the FB group is helpful, but a video tutorial would be awesome!!
Hi Brandon, thank you for the idea. We will add it to our "to do" list. :)
can you make a video going more into this coding like how to get there and what to find?
and how to install the code on to the printer.
Hi, we have several videos about firmware for the Ender 3.
Here's one of them: ua-cam.com/video/kFRy_5lh2IQ/v-deo.html
I tried to enable this mesh bed leveling on my ender 3 v2, but it says “LCD_BED_LEVELING, requires a programmable LCD controller.” Did I do something wrong?
This new display of the Ender 3 V2 is not as "flexible" as the other ones in terms of programming. Having said, it's not yet possible to enable the manual mesh leveling with the display menu included.
@@ruiraptor Ok thanks, I was able to get your bed level g-code to work on the Ender 3 v2, once I enabled the nozzle park and the advance pause feature.
github.com/Flawioo/Creality-Ender-3-board-v4.2.7/blob/master/README.md had same issue, these bugfix zip and config zip worked like a charm.
on the manual method how can you leave the Z locked? Mine falls when the motor is disabled.
For the Z to be always on, you need to edit the firmware and have this option enabled.
@@ruiraptor Does mine move so easy because of Z nut wear?? Doesn't everyones fall?
Do you have extra weight as for example, a direct drive?
Unfortunately, Manual Mesh Bed Leveling won't work on the Ender 3 V2...
You can't enable #define LCD_bed_leveling without getting compiling Errors, because you need a programmable LCD Controller.
The E3 V2 has a DWIN_CREALITY_LCD. This LCD is smart, It gets told what to display when via simple serial commands. But it has limits you cannot directly control what the pixels are doing.
If you have any solution I would GREATLY appreciate it.
Your videos are awesome. Thx.
Hi, you are correct, unfortunately the Ender 3 V2 display does not allow the manual mesh LCD menus to be enabled. You can try enabling the manual mesh leveling without the LCD menu and send the commands by proterface instead. Here are the instructions with and without LCD ( marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html )
@@ruiraptor Wow, that actually helped me so much!
Do you think this issue will be fixed soon?
Not sure, but being possible, the Marlin developers will find the answer for sure ;)
I’m taking this error in ender 3 v2 “LCD_BED_LEVELING requires a progrrammable LCD controller.”.
Hi, are you trying to activate manual mesh leveling with an Ender 3 V2?
@@ruiraptor yes but I learned I can’t do with this display,I should use a 12864 LCD.
😭
My right front manual adjustor just spins.....It will not move up or down! Defective? Any help would be great! Brand new machine out the box!
Hi Thomas, is the screw also spinning or it's only the knob that is completly loose? If it's loose, then you need to keep turning until it starts compressing the spring.
@@ruiraptor The screw spins too I think...going to fiddle with it some more soon.
@@ruiraptor Update! The screw spins with it with the knob. It will not go up or down.
The knob still spins even If I hold screw from spinning! The knob just spins and goes no where....
Got it off! Have to get some small m4 screw to keep the screws from spinning.
Hi, which printer do you have?
Can i make this exact same setup on the ender 3 V2? or it will not work?
Awesome video
Hi Tiago, you can enable the manual mesh leveling on the V2 but you will not have the menus on the display. To trigger the leveling you need to use the PC and send G29 commands.
@ruiraptor oh ok, thank you, so I have to do everything from 7:15 to 8:55, because after is everything from the screen menu that I will not have, right? and after that I just put the micro SD card and he will boot the codes? Because I don't have the leveling part, or I have to connect pc and send the codes directly from my pc?
Thanks a lot for your time man ❤️ really appreciate
Hi Tiago, for the firmware update, please check our other video here: ua-cam.com/video/y87P7K5DTMU/v-deo.html
Regarding the procedure for the manual mesh leveling, here is additional information from Marlin on this: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html
and
marlinfw.org/docs/features/auto_bed_leveling.html
@@ruiraptor thank you very much sir
Qualquer dúvida é só dizer ;)
👏👏👏👏👏🤩🤩🤩🤩😀👍
I have gap likes and extra layers on my prints why?? 😢😢
Sadly, there's no guide out there for Klipper. Edit: Got it to work anyway :)
Im try this ender3 v2👍
But error for programble lcd
Hi, the manual mesh leveling is not yet available for the Ender 3 V2 because the menus are not working in the V2 display.
@@ruiraptor how to fix this
If you want mesh leveling you need to install a leveling sensor and run it automatically.
@@ruiraptor you mean bltouch
Yes, BLtouch.
Took the BL touch off today and threw it in the trash. No idea what isn't working but I give up on that POS.
im here to solve my first layer stick problem
i have found it i think need a hand here pls.. i setup the bed level.. but everytime i start a new print it just resets it and lose it
i have tryed it.. i make it again and again it lose it everytime
so every print starts without a bed level :(
You mean, the bed loses the leveling? are the springs compressed enough?
Level, print, fail...level, print, fail...about to sell this thing
Please please spoon feed me... Tell me one by one.... I can catch up like that...
Where r u having a problem
никчёмно бумажный метод