- We appreciate your Support and Purchases! - Find all the parts for your VW or Audi! - www.shopdap.com/ Front Brake Pad and Rotor options for MK7 GTI www.shopdap.com/volkswagen/gti/mk7_2015_2017/2_0t_gen3/dsg_6_speed/fwd/finder-data/braking/pads.html
I was doing my RS4 brakes yesterday and the discs were melted onto the hub and didn't have a bolt in the hub and smashed the disc off onto my foot, luckily i was wearing steel caps, remember kids safety is number one priority.
I just bought front brakes for my MK7 GTI online from you guys yesterday. I called to make sure I ordered everything and was greeted and treated very well. KUDOS for the video and the service!
Thank you so much for these videos. You've saved me thousands in shop fees and given me the confidence to do this work myself. That's why I'll be buying parts from DAP.
Excellent, and I appreciate how clear these always are. I would only add that a little bit of anti-seize on the mating surface of the rotor and on the set screw will save you grief later. Don't use too much. Just a thin smear.
I have installed the same kit on my MK6 Golf R and I used EBC yellow stuff and I did these after I went to a track day and worped my stock rotors ( brakes were stock ) . I also installed the stainless steel brake lines and performance brake fluid. The difference was huge after the job was done. But what I wanted to say is that the ebc yellow stuff is actually really good on a daily driving , cold bite is better then stock pads definitely, the only thing is they make more dust then the red stuff. I didn't really want to change the pads after each track day so that's why I wheat with the yellows. And one more time I found this a perfect combination of the stoptech slotted rotors and the ebc yellow stuff for both track and daily. Cheers !!!
Forgot to mention that they are a little noisy during the bed in procedure , you may hear some squeal not all the time and only in the first 2-3000 miles , after that the more you go the better they get .
Thank you for all of your videos. I've done brakes before on my mk4 Jetta wagon, but that was years ago. It was a nice refresher before I do the front brakes and rotors tonight on my alltrack. -Cheers!
Are you a noob like me , watching this? Great info, but here are a few tips. If you don’t have a lift like in the video, you’re at a huge disadvantage, because you won’t have enough “swing room” for a large breaker bar/torque wrench needed for those 200nm carrier bolts! Took me almost 2 hrs of struggling with an 18” breaker until they moved. Then I discovered a secret. I was replacing the wheel bearings and ball joints on my GTI as well, and when you remove the ball joint, the whole brake/rotor assembly swings out like a door (mind the brake lines!). When this is swung out, you’ll have tons of room to crack/torque these heavy bolts with a 25” bar-no problem. That awful part becomes easy. If you don’t replace the ball joint, I’m honestly not sure how anyone who is not Hercules can do these bolts in their standard position using floor stands. Fair warning tho… part of the “swing out” bit involves popping the axle out of the bearing so you’ll need a new axle bolt-and getting the axle back into the wheel bearing tines was ugly hard for me. The way I see it, by swinging the rotor assembly I made 3 hard things easy in exchange for 1 new hard thing. Fair trade. Different video but for the rears I may have a super-close shop crack the rear carrier bolts and re-torque them when I’m done.
I don't know about that: if you turn the steering wheel you get plenty of room for a long breaker bar. I just did it on a Land Rover with caliper carrier bolts torqued to 275nm.
Hi Paul - I noticed that even though the wheels use bolts to hold on, you had what appeared to be some type of socket on your air impact wrench. Is that a special tool, maybe a deepwell socket with a Torx embedded on the inside? Because my Mk7 has Torx bolts, don't know what T exactly, I'm guessing T-50. I figured I would just use the correct T-bit on my electric impact. Also at 9:46, you can prevent marring of the piston / caliper by placing one of the old pads on the piston, rather than clamping / plier-ing directly on the piston itself, so that even pressure is applied. In fact this also gives a better indication of when the piston is fully pushed in as the pad will bottom out against the caliper casting and not allow the piston to be pushed in further. 13:34 - Yeah, been there, done that. Forgot to take out the bungee cord on my friend's Focus earlier this year. Luckily I caught it when I went to do the other side and wondered where it was. :-D Thanks!
I screwed up the threading while trying to mount a wheel and a spacer (guess the screw hasn't been straight). Will definetly get that mount tool. Sounds genius
Do you use any anti squeal compound on the back of the pads? I've always heard that putting the compound on the back prevents the pads from squealing when braking.
Its incredible how much easier it is to replace the front brakes compared to the rear brakes on this car. You have to have a stupid triple square socket and a stupid spinny piston squisher.
two tips: -If you don't have a big a$$ pair of gas pliers, you need a really big C-clamp to reach around the outside of the caliper. -Wear ear protection when you whack the rotor, especially if you use a hard or metallic mallet. Ask me how I know....
Wait, so on the video for the rear brakes, the bolts for the carrier could NOT be reused. But on the fronts, the carrier bolts CAN be reused, but the caliper bolts can NOT be reused? Could VW make this any more confusing? And the rears have a funky bolt head to boot? Thanks VW.
Nice vid, please let it be true that caliper carrier bolts don't need to be replaced for most VWs (unless dirty as you say) but only the smaller caliper bolts.
I noticed it mentioned this kit was not for the Mk 7.5 with performance package brakes with 312mm rotors if I read it correctly. I’m getting i great deal of vibration on the right wheel when braking from 40 mph and above. I think it’s the pass wearing uneven.
Byw guys. If you want stoptech brake quality for half the price R1 Concepts has gotchu. I looked up the street front rotors and pads saw 800$ n said hall no. Found R1 concepts and i got slotted rotors/performance pads front n rear for 400$. They do what i want(which is not burnup and fade under high speed braking. Oh man the factory PP brakes would practically catcha fire slowing down slowly from 170... had zero complaints about R1 and never heard of their rotors cracking so their plenty good. Not million dollar racecar shit but plenty good for 99/100 sports cars that see track like driving.
Good video. Personally I am not a fan of EBC brake pads, but the installation info was good. A couple of questions though, did you clean the hub face before refitting the new discs, and why didn't you use Ceratec on the pad backs and anti-rattle clips during re-installation?
For PP Mk7's are the rotors and pads unique to the PP OR do the rotors/pads and the PP MK7 share parts with the Golf R/S3? Thanks for another awesome DIY video.
Nice video. But I'm shocked that you didn't use the proper piston compressing tool instead of large serrated jaw channel locks, which could easily damage the piston and the caliper.
That’s not deal dude. I’m more surprised no lubricant was used for the contact area of the pads to caliper and the area where the rotor contacts the hub
I have a 2013 Polo GTI 6R 1.4 and I have a similar braking system, for some reason I don't have a brake pad wear sensor on the orginal OEM pads but the new ones I bought have sensors, can anyone help?
Greetings, I am a follower of yours since I have a 2017 GTI Mk7 but it is not a performance package, I have it with stage 2 and I was thinking of doing this front and rear upgrade like the one you showed, but adding the stainless steel brake line will improve braking… …..because I thought I would buy a bigger caliper kit. I don't use it for all track, it's street, I use it daily. Thank for you help.
Nice job and thanks for making all these videos. One small tip: disable autofocus on the cameras and set manual focus. Noticeable on the camera below while you fasten the carrier bolts. :-) I also noticed you didn't mention to clean the rotor with brakeclean to remove the protective residue.
Thanks for watching. I dont have any plans to take off auto focus at this time. Shooting a DIY like this by yourself takes a really long time. Taking off auto focus would take even longer and ads minor production value to a video used for utility. I appreciate the feedback very much. Paul
Deutsche Auto Parts Hey Paul, thanks for the quick response. What about cleaning the rotors with brake clean? I think that's also required for those rotors, isn't it? Anyway, keep it up, Paul! :-)
dominicancash when you talk about cost yes. 1/3 the cost. But if you upgraded you might was well go with the PP kit with these pads and rotors. deutscheautoparts.com/make-model-year/volkswagen/gti/mk7-2015-present/braking/brake-kits/5g0698123a-mk7-gti-pp-front-brake-kit-slotted-rotors.html
Why you guys not using BRAKE CALIPER PISTON COMPRESSOR TOOL to avoid damge on caliper paint and /or piston sealing? its an universal tool and usable on few cars and caliper types, its a good invesment. ;)
Tried replacing my front brake pads on VW 2018 GTI. Removed wheel, unscrewed caliper bolts from carrier, tried pulling the caliper off the rotor but it wouldn’t budge. Tried squeezing a screwdriver between the rotor and pads to push the piston back into the caliper, but no luck, felt pushing any harder would damage the rotor which I’m not planning to replace. Tried to use a professional OBD tool to release the brakes ABS -> open brakes, a slow progress bar progressed but then at the end got an error “Unable to open brakes” Am I missing something?
It’s too bad, you guys do not ship anything to Indonesia. I have $$$ willing to spend....Done it before for my Harleys, shipped from every where with out problem.
Hi very good content here, i had a question about the disc. is this the same size as the GTI performance? Because the gti performance have bigger brake calipers Thank you for this helpful video why not vented/perforated discbrakes?
I really love your channel thx! Question though! My brother n law is a mechanic and says you need to crack the bleeder screw open on abs brakes or grime can go back into the seals and damage the abs system. What do you think?
Paul. I just installed the DAP front and rear rotors with the red stuff pads on my 2016 Golf R. I was surprised how worn my front pads were. I do track the car for a full day every 3 months or so. I'm anxious to see how the new set up works. My question is about JB1 versus tune (a topic on one of you Ask DAP). Given what you state, I would be better serve to do a full tune rather than JB1 given the frequency of track days. I'm concerned that tricking the ECU under the excessive wear of a track day is not advisable. I would appreciate your feedback.
Great video thanks! I shop with you guys for all my GTI mods. You have some dope carbon fiber mirror covers. where can I get some of those? I didn't see it on your site.
I went to install a new set of EBC yellow stuff pads on my MK7 GTI with PP and the retaining shims fell off. The seller warrantied the pads and sent me new ones and on install it happened again. Have you heard of this happening? Is there a good way to keep the retaining shim on after it falls off?
+Rick Johnson there is no need to bleed the brakes. Bleeding is only required if you have introduced air into the system. This wouldn't happen unless you removed the brake lines or opened the system at some other point.
Is it me, or is it when I got the Red Stuff Brake pads it didn't come with any hardware? Also, great guide, just finished my front brakes and rotors on my GTI. The only thing that concerns me is when I turn the wheel, there's a clicking noise. Is there any pointers or advice on that?
Is any type of brake anti squeal not required? I guess I’m used to always adding some when changing pads. Are these pads different or is it just not recommended for this platform? Thanks!
i have same setup for about 300 miles after that i was going high speed and for first time I used the brakes hard. not harder than what I used to do in stock setup. i felt brake fading really quickly. i was really disappointed. is it really like this or should i let get cold and try the next day?. btw what i just wrote happened to me today. so should i wait until tomorrow and see the brakes?. tell me your experience with the brakes. thnx
Assuming I get the spacing right with the aftermarket wheels, is there any reason I could not install Golf R calipers and rotors on a 2014 Passat S 1.8T ?
I know there are tons of variables such as tracking the car, or city driving, but how many miles are most getting from the stockers? Is 50K reasonable lifespan to expect?
Mine are at 53,000 KMs on stock pads. That’s 30,500 miles. Though they are now getting a little too soft for my liking. I’m a Sport or Custom mode driver.
Thanks for the DIY. Informative as always. Are you planning to do a similar presentation for the rear brakes? In particular, to explain how to address the electronic emergency braking set-up? Thanks.
Do you know if the EBC brakes can hold up to higher temperatures than the stock non pp rotors? I am very interested in buying this kit with the red stuff pads. Thanks
katanamast279 Yes they would hold up to heat better than the stock brakes. Take a look here for the PP Parts Front deutscheautoparts.com/make-model-year/volkswagen/gti/mk7-2015-present/braking/brake-kits/mk7-gti-pp-performance-front-brake-pads-rotors.html Rear deutscheautoparts.com/make-model-year/volkswagen/gti/mk7-2015-present/braking/brake-kits/mk7-gti-pp-performance-rear-brake-pads-rotors.html
- We appreciate your Support and Purchases! -
Find all the parts for your VW or Audi! - www.shopdap.com/
Front Brake Pad and Rotor options for MK7 GTI
www.shopdap.com/volkswagen/gti/mk7_2015_2017/2_0t_gen3/dsg_6_speed/fwd/finder-data/braking/pads.html
Heads up: Bike mechanic wrenches (aka cone wrenches/spanners) for those low clearance nuts around the 5 minute mark
I was doing my RS4 brakes yesterday and the discs were melted onto the hub and didn't have a bolt in the hub and smashed the disc off onto my foot, luckily i was wearing steel caps, remember kids safety is number one priority.
Crazy Russian hacker !
I just bought front brakes for my MK7 GTI online from you guys yesterday. I called to make sure I ordered everything and was greeted and treated very well. KUDOS for the video and the service!
Just replaced my rotors and pads! Thank you for the video!
Thank you so much for these videos. You've saved me thousands in shop fees and given me the confidence to do this work myself. That's why I'll be buying parts from DAP.
Thank you so much for the support we appreciate it very much.
Excellent, and I appreciate how clear these always are. I would only add that a little bit of anti-seize on the mating surface of the rotor and on the set screw will save you grief later. Don't use too much. Just a thin smear.
I have installed the same kit on my MK6 Golf R and I used EBC yellow stuff and I did these after I went to a track day and worped my stock rotors ( brakes were stock ) . I also installed the stainless steel brake lines and performance brake fluid. The difference was huge after the job was done. But what I wanted to say is that the ebc yellow stuff is actually really good on a daily driving , cold bite is better then stock pads definitely, the only thing is they make more dust then the red stuff. I didn't really want to change the pads after each track day so that's why I wheat with the yellows. And one more time I found this a perfect combination of the stoptech slotted rotors and the ebc yellow stuff for both track and daily. Cheers !!!
Forgot to mention that they are a little noisy during the bed in procedure , you may hear some squeal not all the time and only in the first 2-3000 miles , after that the more you go the better they get .
I seriously doubt you warped your rotors. Next to impossible.
once again thank you for the DIY.
No prob. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for all of your videos. I've done brakes before on my mk4 Jetta wagon, but that was years ago. It was a nice refresher before I do the front brakes and rotors tonight on my alltrack.
-Cheers!
Are you a noob like me , watching this? Great info, but here are a few tips. If you don’t have a lift like in the video, you’re at a huge disadvantage, because you won’t have enough “swing room” for a large breaker bar/torque wrench needed for those 200nm carrier bolts! Took me almost 2 hrs of struggling with an 18” breaker until they moved. Then I discovered a secret. I was replacing the wheel bearings and ball joints on my GTI as well, and when you remove the ball joint, the whole brake/rotor assembly swings out like a door (mind the brake lines!). When this is swung out, you’ll have tons of room to crack/torque these heavy bolts with a 25” bar-no problem. That awful part becomes easy. If you don’t replace the ball joint, I’m honestly not sure how anyone who is not Hercules can do these bolts in their standard position using floor stands. Fair warning tho… part of the “swing out” bit involves popping the axle out of the bearing so you’ll need a new axle bolt-and getting the axle back into the wheel bearing tines was ugly hard for me. The way I see it, by swinging the rotor assembly I made 3 hard things easy in exchange for 1 new hard thing. Fair trade. Different video but for the rears I may have a super-close shop crack the rear carrier bolts and re-torque them when I’m done.
Thanks for the info and is a torque gun safe doing this too? Since I don’t have a lift
I don't know about that: if you turn the steering wheel you get plenty of room for a long breaker bar. I just did it on a Land Rover with caliper carrier bolts torqued to 275nm.
Awesome video, exactly what i needed , GTD now stops as it should :-)
Hi Paul - I noticed that even though the wheels use bolts to hold on, you had what appeared to be some type of socket on your air impact wrench. Is that a special tool, maybe a deepwell socket with a Torx embedded on the inside? Because my Mk7 has Torx bolts, don't know what T exactly, I'm guessing T-50. I figured I would just use the correct T-bit on my electric impact.
Also at 9:46, you can prevent marring of the piston / caliper by placing one of the old pads on the piston, rather than clamping / plier-ing directly on the piston itself, so that even pressure is applied. In fact this also gives a better indication of when the piston is fully pushed in as the pad will bottom out against the caliper casting and not allow the piston to be pushed in further.
13:34 - Yeah, been there, done that. Forgot to take out the bungee cord on my friend's Focus earlier this year. Luckily I caught it when I went to do the other side and wondered where it was. :-D
Thanks!
if your wheels are stock wheels they dont have torx bolts, those are just plastic caps over it
Appreciate your videos man, thanks!
There is a tool now for compressing caliper pistons now. A C clamps works good too, but sometimes you need a block of wood with that.
You can also use one of the old brake pads too. That’s what I usually do
I screwed up the threading while trying to mount a wheel and a spacer (guess the screw hasn't been straight). Will definetly get that mount tool. Sounds genius
Do you use any anti squeal compound on the back of the pads? I've always heard that putting the compound on the back prevents the pads from squealing when braking.
Excellent camera work. Very useful video.
Its incredible how much easier it is to replace the front brakes compared to the rear brakes on this car. You have to have a stupid triple square socket and a stupid spinny piston squisher.
Another good video. Very clear and concise. Thanks much.
Thanks for the video, love the great parts on the site!
Is there no need to grease the Caliper carrier or the back of the pads to stop squealing?
two tips:
-If you don't have a big a$$ pair of gas pliers, you need a really big C-clamp to reach around the outside of the caliper.
-Wear ear protection when you whack the rotor, especially if you use a hard or metallic mallet. Ask me how I know....
Great video, very informative, thanks for posting
Very good video. Clear and helpful.
Wait, so on the video for the rear brakes, the bolts for the carrier could NOT be reused. But on the fronts, the carrier bolts CAN be reused, but the caliper bolts can NOT be reused? Could VW make this any more confusing? And the rears have a funky bolt head to boot? Thanks VW.
Nice vid, please let it be true that caliper carrier bolts don't need to be replaced for most VWs (unless dirty as you say) but only the smaller caliper bolts.
I would wire brush the back of the disk area and apply the compound vw recommends!
I noticed it mentioned this kit was not for the Mk 7.5 with performance package brakes with 312mm rotors if I read it correctly. I’m getting i great deal of vibration on the right wheel when braking from 40 mph and above. I think it’s the pass wearing uneven.
Byw guys. If you want stoptech brake quality for half the price R1 Concepts has gotchu. I looked up the street front rotors and pads saw 800$ n said hall no. Found R1 concepts and i got slotted rotors/performance pads front n rear for 400$. They do what i want(which is not burnup and fade under high speed braking. Oh man the factory PP brakes would practically catcha fire slowing down slowly from 170... had zero complaints about R1 and never heard of their rotors cracking so their plenty good. Not million dollar racecar shit but plenty good for 99/100 sports cars that see track like driving.
Good video. Personally I am not a fan of EBC brake pads, but the installation info was good. A couple of questions though, did you clean the hub face before refitting the new discs, and why didn't you use Ceratec on the pad backs and anti-rattle clips during re-installation?
So if i may ask for what reason did you guys choose the stoptech rotor over the EBC rotor? Have you tested both out?
For PP Mk7's are the rotors and pads unique to the PP OR do the rotors/pads and the PP MK7 share parts with the Golf R/S3? Thanks for another awesome DIY video.
Those carrier bolts are a pain in the ass 😅
Ah So it’s not too different than any others thank you so much!
No lubing of the glide pins? Or break bleading? I understand that they can be put in seperate videos, but it is all inclusive.
Oh Boy, American Way to work. Use hefty tools whenever possible!
Anybody else notice a clacking noise around caliper area after installing new break pads and rotors?
Nice video. But I'm shocked that you didn't use the proper piston compressing tool instead of large serrated jaw channel locks, which could easily damage the piston and the caliper.
Mr. clipboard over hear.
a real Bylaw Enforcement Officer
That’s not deal dude. I’m more surprised no lubricant was used for the contact area of the pads to caliper and the area where the rotor contacts the hub
after this operation you must bleed the brake system how do you please
Why not clean up those parts before reassembling? Perfect time
good point, I am taking notes!
You gotta also brake those brakes in! Its a process.
If you prie the piston on the calipers first make the job easier and grease up the pads en also
Would be helpful if you mentioned what size wrenches and torx you're using
3:30 one of the things i don't like about my Tig, it is quite a challenge to do tire swaps myself.
9:41 always good advice
I have a 2013 Polo GTI 6R 1.4 and I have a similar braking system, for some reason I don't have a brake pad wear sensor on the orginal OEM pads but the new ones I bought have sensors, can anyone help?
I thought the Performance Pack 345mm calipers had GTi impronted on them? These look like 312mm calipers
Greetings, I am a follower of yours since I have a 2017 GTI Mk7 but it is not a performance package, I have it with stage 2 and I was thinking of doing this front and rear upgrade like the one you showed, but adding the stainless steel brake line will improve braking… …..because I thought I would buy a bigger caliper kit. I don't use it for all track, it's street, I use it daily. Thank for you help.
not bad, but needed to adjust the camera angle to see exactly what you were doing at times.
Super vid. Giving me car envy. What about my tiguan? I tow a horse trailer and wonder if an upgrade would give more safety.
Nice job and thanks for making all these videos. One small tip: disable autofocus on the cameras and set manual focus. Noticeable on the camera below while you fasten the carrier bolts. :-)
I also noticed you didn't mention to clean the rotor with brakeclean to remove the protective residue.
Thanks for watching. I dont have any plans to take off auto focus at this time. Shooting a DIY like this by yourself takes a really long time. Taking off auto focus would take even longer and ads minor production value to a video used for utility.
I appreciate the feedback very much.
Paul
Deutsche Auto Parts Hey Paul, thanks for the quick response. What about cleaning the rotors with brake clean? I think that's also required for those rotors, isn't it?
Anyway, keep it up, Paul! :-)
blocki Its not a bad idea but should be fine without it
+Deutsche Auto Parts the question is are those rotors and pads better than pp gti brakes? Honest answer .
dominicancash when you talk about cost yes. 1/3 the cost. But if you upgraded you might was well go with the PP kit with these pads and rotors.
deutscheautoparts.com/make-model-year/volkswagen/gti/mk7-2015-present/braking/brake-kits/5g0698123a-mk7-gti-pp-front-brake-kit-slotted-rotors.html
Why you guys not using BRAKE CALIPER PISTON COMPRESSOR TOOL to avoid damge on caliper paint and /or piston sealing? its an universal tool and usable on few cars and caliper types, its a good invesment. ;)
thany you good job for the mk7
Thanks man!!
Do yourself (or the next owner) a favor and put a little anti-seize on that rotor set screw before you reinstall it. :)
are you sure about the torque specs? carrier bolts seem high and bolts to hold caliper seems a little low. 200 Nm and 35 Nm respectively.
Both are correct. The 35Nm bolts are only for the Glide Pins, which "should" be removed, cleaned and re-lubed - if you are doing everything.
I just tightened those bolts to 200 nm like he said and ripped the threads clean out fs
the 35nm bolts are supposed to be locking bolts and replaced after use. if not replacing just use loctite blue/permatex blue etc
Nice work
My 2017 didn’t have a set screw on the rotors
Nice video thanks
Tried replacing my front brake pads on VW 2018 GTI. Removed wheel, unscrewed caliper bolts from carrier, tried pulling the caliper off the rotor but it wouldn’t budge.
Tried squeezing a screwdriver between the rotor and pads to push the piston back into the caliper, but no luck, felt pushing any harder would damage the rotor which I’m not planning to replace.
Tried to use a professional OBD tool to release the brakes ABS -> open brakes, a slow progress bar progressed but then at the end got an error “Unable to open brakes”
Am I missing something?
It’s too bad, you guys do not ship anything to Indonesia. I have $$$ willing to spend....Done it before for my Harleys, shipped from every where with out problem.
is this the same install details (torque etc) for the performance pack brakes?
can you also make a video for front/rear brakes on VW Golf 1.8T mk7? or is it similar to this one on the GTI? thanks!
Amir B I just did my fronts on my TSI using this video s a reference. Pretty much identical except grey instead of red.
Hi very good content here, i had a question about the disc. is this the same size as the GTI performance? Because the gti performance have bigger brake calipers Thank you for this helpful video why not vented/perforated discbrakes?
Thanks for this Video :)
You don't appear to be applying any type of grease throughout the process. Is that correct?
I really love your channel thx!
Question though! My brother n law is a mechanic and says you need to crack the bleeder screw open on abs brakes or grime can go back into the seals and damage the abs system.
What do you think?
Paul. I just installed the DAP front and rear rotors with the red stuff pads on my 2016 Golf R. I was surprised how worn my front pads were. I do track the car for a full day every 3 months or so. I'm anxious to see how the new set up works.
My question is about JB1 versus tune (a topic on one of you Ask DAP). Given what you state, I would be better serve to do a full tune rather than JB1 given the frequency of track days. I'm concerned that tricking the ECU under the excessive wear of a track day is not advisable. I would appreciate your feedback.
Do you not use copper slip grease on the bolts, nuts or rear of the pads?
No. The only thing I would say is if you were working on a higher mileage car it might not be a bad idea to lubricate the caliper slides.
What's good pads with less brake dusts? OEM pads are so bad with dusts.
what torx bit is used for the set screw?
Maxim Kalinin T30
What’s the advantage of slotted rotors or even cross drills?
Great video thanks! I shop with you guys for all my GTI mods. You have some dope carbon fiber mirror covers. where can I get some of those? I didn't see it on your site.
Why not use EBC green? Don’t they dust less than red and red has to heat up to get stopping power?
I went to install a new set of EBC yellow stuff pads on my MK7 GTI with PP and the retaining shims fell off. The seller warrantied the pads and sent me new ones and on install it happened again. Have you heard of this happening? Is there a good way to keep the retaining shim on after it falls off?
If you’re doing all 4, are the back rotors the same install method aswell ?
Should I replace the carrier bolts and set screws with new ones when doing this? Thanks.
What's the part number for the caliper bolt that's one time use?
If i just wanted to change to a sport pad on the GTI, will the stock rotors be ok? Car has 10k and the rotors seem fine.
Would regular needle nose pliers work for holding the bolt in place?
Any reason not to bleed the brakes at this time?
+Rick Johnson there is no need to bleed the brakes. Bleeding is only required if you have introduced air into the system. This wouldn't happen unless you removed the brake lines or opened the system at some other point.
Is it me, or is it when I got the Red Stuff Brake pads it didn't come with any hardware? Also, great guide, just finished my front brakes and rotors on my GTI. The only thing that concerns me is when I turn the wheel, there's a clicking noise. Is there any pointers or advice on that?
Caliper doesn't need pressed down?
Same for TSI of the same generation???
Is any type of brake anti squeal not required? I guess I’m used to always adding some when changing pads. Are these pads different or is it just not recommended for this platform? Thanks!
i have same setup for about 300 miles after that i was going high speed and for first time I used the brakes hard. not harder than what I used to do in stock setup. i felt brake fading really quickly. i was really disappointed. is it really like this or should i let get cold and try the next day?. btw what i just wrote happened to me today. so should i wait until tomorrow and see the brakes?. tell me your experience with the brakes. thnx
Doesn't the GTI have a brake wear sensor on the inner brake pad? Do these performance pads not use this sensor?
Ours did not have sensors
Do "you" need sensors? From what I understand the car will turn on a light in the dash, but it can be coded "off"
Assuming I get the spacing right with the aftermarket wheels, is there any reason I could not install Golf R calipers and rotors on a 2014 Passat S 1.8T ?
How long should a shop take to perform this job?
My car is a 2013 Jetta SE 2.5L, what do you recommend to do the change of the brake pads and rotors? Thank you.
I know there are tons of variables such as tracking the car, or city driving, but how many miles are most getting from the stockers? Is 50K reasonable lifespan to expect?
Mine are at 53,000 KMs on stock pads. That’s 30,500 miles. Though they are now getting a little too soft for my liking. I’m a Sport or Custom mode driver.
UPDATE I changed out at 41,000 miles. It was likely I could have had a legal 4-5k more, but I am glad I stayed ahead of it.
Mine went exactly 45K miles before one pad was at 4mm and I changed them. The rest were around 5mm @@CA-td2mx
What do I use to get the retaining screw off rota, is it torx or hex.
312mmand 340mm both is fit ？
No lubrication. What are you doing? No copper grease, no silicone.
Do you have a video for installing the big-brake kit (as was the option for the 2016 gti performance pack using the brakes from the audi a3)? Thanks,
I don't have access to a lift. Is there enough clearance for a breaker say from the front of the car when you turn the wheel full-lock?
Do I have to do anything with the brake fluid?
Thanks for the DIY. Informative as always. Are you planning to do a similar presentation for the rear brakes? In particular, to explain how to address the electronic emergency braking set-up? Thanks.
It was already shot. It will be coming in the next week or so. Our car doesn't have electronic parking brake but I did discuss it briefly.
Paul
Do you know if the EBC brakes can hold up to higher temperatures than the stock non pp rotors? I am very interested in buying this kit with the red stuff pads.
Thanks
katanamast279 Yes they would hold up to heat better than the stock brakes. Take a look here for the PP Parts
Front
deutscheautoparts.com/make-model-year/volkswagen/gti/mk7-2015-present/braking/brake-kits/mk7-gti-pp-performance-front-brake-pads-rotors.html
Rear
deutscheautoparts.com/make-model-year/volkswagen/gti/mk7-2015-present/braking/brake-kits/mk7-gti-pp-performance-rear-brake-pads-rotors.html
Deutsche Auto Parts
One quick question, is this kit the GTI PP size or the stock GTI rotor size?
Thanks
katanamast279 The one linked above is for cars with PP the ones installed on the car are not.
Caliper guide pin hex bolts need to be renewed - yet you look at reinstall the old ones?
No, VW does not require them to be replaced, only if damaged... To be safe you can replace the rubber caps, clean the pins and put fresh lube on them.