- We appreciate your Support and Purchases! - Find all of our brake options for MK7 HERE! www.shopdap.com/make-model-year/volkswagen/gti/mk7-2015-present/braking.html
Couple things missing from this video that are not critical but definitley worth doing: relubricate the caliper guide pins, clean up the wheel hub surface with a wire wheel or brush, and apply antiseize to the hub.
no way is this a real repair video.. you didn’t fumble something or cuss a single time! I’ve never made it through any maintenance without any of that lol
I've never had to resort to using pilers to hold the caliper sliding pin, always managed to use a normal open ended 15mm spanner when loosening the 13mm rear caliper bolt on all VAG cars I've owned going back to the day of the MK2 Golfs.
Listen to what he said, "I don't have a wrench narrow enough..." Which means he had to find an alternative. I will most likely not use needle nose in the future as they do mar the bolt face and could potentially round it out if the loctite is holding strong. But it's a useful suggestion and it works decently enough in a pinch.
On the facelift Tiguans, the rear caliper is electronic but the piston doesn't turn back in, it presses back in like a front caliper once you have the EPB retracted with VCDS.
I love the videos, but I really wish you had mentioned that we needed triple square bits when you mentioned that we needed the piston retraction kit so I could’ve made sure to get a set before taking my car apart
Im used to do very all of my brakes job mysel but on this specific car the rear mounting bolt M14 are VERY hard to remove without much space to work with !! Same for the front ones they are 21mm and very tight !
The fronts aren't a problem, just turn the wheel and you can fit an impact wrench back there and break them loose. The rear one's however might give me some trouble.
Many pad manufacturers have started using coatings on the pad back plate to eliminate the need for grease. Some even come with an extra shim to install in between the pad and piston to further help reduce brake noise.
So the US version Mk7 doesn't have a electronic parking brake? I wondered that you were able to use a manual tool for pushing back the pistons... Anyway that makes the brake replacement a lot easier!!
This is an awesome straight forward diy video but it’s a lot harder than my man here makes it seem, lol. I’ve cursed, yelled, & slammed shit in a matter of 10 min. I’d love to have an over head lift like this, life with a GTI would be soooo much simpler. thanks for a great tutorial.
On my MK7 Golf TDI, I was able to replace the rotors WITHOUT removing the caliper carriers. That means there is no need for a triple square. It doesn't look like it, but the rotors will tilt and slide out easily with the carriers still on. I believe mine are the same rear calipers/rotors as the ones in this video.
Awesome glad to hear. A lot of this install info crosses over to other models and the general info is almost always applicable. Thanks for watching! Paul
Why are the triple square calliper carrier bolts not reusable? As far as I am aware they are not TTY fasteners. If the reason is due to the factory applied thread locker, you could reuse them by chasing the threads and reapplying the adhesive.
Any bolt that has a torque spec of XX Nm +90° (or whatever it may be) should be replaced every time that it is taken off. VW has engineered the metallurgy of that bolt to stretch when it was installed correctly to prevent it from working loose through vibration. VW loves to use them on critical components. Those stretch bolts are therefore weakened from their initial use, and one risks them snapping when reusing them.
@@fast_eddie3441 Funny, had that same problem on my mk6 jetta, but it was the buttom bolt that I couldn't get to (only have a 1 3/4in long bit). All I could do was remove a bolt/bushing from the frame arm; not sure of that bolts purpose, but it left about a 1 1/8 hole.
Yeh, I read a post somewhere that a guy couldn't get his m14 to fit, so he bought a m13 for like $15 bucks and still had a problem. I told him all he needed to do was use a pick to clean out the crud and tap the socket in lightly and he'd be all set, especially with this type of socket
@@fast_eddie3441 where can you buy a short one, the rotor doesnt come off without removing the carrier. i ordered a triple sqaure from FCP but its too long xD. im searching online for one but CANNOT find a shallow short or stubby 14mm
People make 5:50 look so easy. Mine are NOT budging!!!!! I gripped both sides. Been trying for two days. Help! Why’s is it so tight!!! I even used a sledge hammer on the wrench
Any idea why when trying to compress the caliper piston it just keeps turning and turning. Doesn't seem to be compressing after many many turns so I still can't get the caliper over the pads.
I have a question I just did my rear pads and rotorson my 2016 and the ABS traction and airbag lights are coming on every now and then since I've done it. Everything went fine with my brakes, and nothing was broken. What can I do to reset this.??
This video doesn't show bleeding the brake lines while compressing the caliper piston. If your brakes are being replaced due to wearing out, you should bleed your lines while compressing. If you do not, it can damage your ABS control module. Additionally, check your Brake Fluid reservoir to see if it is overfilled. Mechanics routinely top up brake fluid as pads wear down. When you put on new pads, less fluid is needed due to the pistons being compressed. If your fluid level is good, I would do a full bleed and replace your brake fluid, there are plenty of videos on youtube and it is not as difficult as it looks. This may resolve your ABS issues, unless the module is damaged. I know I am 5 months late, but I hope this helps.
The rear pistons needs to spin while being compressed. That's what the notches are for. The fronts are hollow and can just be compressed back in. You can see the head of tool spinning as he compresses the rear piston back in, but it's never explicitly stated that's what needs to happen.
I'm looking to replace my rotors with some Brembo 09.A200.1X. Do you know if these will fit a US SPEC 2016 GTI S? I'm stationed in Germany. I've been looking for parts locally around here to avoid paying crazy U.S. shipping fees
@@jameshaulenbeek5931 he mentions caliper carrier bolts in this video, he reuses the 13mm caliper bolts. Believe in the ft video he reused caliper cartier bolts and replaced the caliper bolts
Paul I just replaced my front brakes but my Pad wear sensor is still turning on. How do I get rid of that warning light? Also, my rears need to get done as well but they dont have a sensor.
On an R (or any VW with electronic E-brake), does the rear caliper still need to be screwed in, or does retracting it electronically remove the need for the special tool (other than VCDS/VagCom)?
Those 14mm triple square caliper mount bolts are a BITCH to remove if you have more miles/time on the car. Especially if you don't have it on a lift where you can get a big enough breaker bar under the car.
I am making my second attempt at those bolts without a lift. I bought a really short 1/2" Drive M14 Capri socket, impact rated universal joint, extensions and a impact wrench (Dewalt) to get it done. I have worked on VWs for twenty years but never had so much trouble with accessibility due to that multi-link rear suspension on the MK7.
@@paulherbert5548 I just went through this, those 14M triple squares about did me in. You're right, without a lift it's very hard to get leverage. I got them out with a 14" breaker bar on some and a flex head ratchet on the rest. My 1/2 impact wouldn't touch them. I'm buying a 24" ratcheting breaker bar for the next time ....
@@benriker9589 Hey, I too was successful! I bought a pair of those light weight tubular Schwaben jacks stands and positioned one of them under the lifting arm of my NAPA 3 ton floor jack to get access to those bolts. I lifted the Golf about 16", measured at the center-line of the rear wheel hub, shoved the jack stand under the lift arm, raised it to meet the arm and inserted the locking pin to keep things safe. Once you have the height and a good jack stand in place for peace of mind its a lot easier. A flex head ratchet is best if you use any socket longer than the really short M14 Capri socket. I didn't even need the universal joint that I purchased, using just a 15 1/2" breaker bar for all 4 bolts. If I remember correctly, the lower? bolts required me to use long extensions to get the breaker positioned away from the strut/lower control arm suspension pieces. I was even able to get my torque wrench in there to tighten those stretch carrier bolts. www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/aluminum-3-ton-jack-stands-pair/005945sch01a/ www.lowes.com/pd/Capri-Tools-14-mm-MT14-Stubby-XZN-Triple-Square-Bit-Socket-1-2-in-Drive/1002616182 www.toolsource.com/12-in-drive-c-194_252_562_699/12-drive-chrome-flex-handle-breaker-bar-1512-l-p-122091.html www.harryepstein.com/micro-adjustable-torque-wrench-50-250-ft-lbs.html www.napaonline.com/en/p/NLE7916420
You don't need to, and you don't want to...I have the PP and brakes are so damn expensive with these 340mm fronts. Does the car stop well? Yeah, but for street driving you would be better served with a a rotor from a company you know won't have issues with cracking or warping, and some really good pads from HAWK or EBC.
Wait... A quick question... I have a 2016 GTI Performance Package SE (manual)... When the car is on a hill it stops by itself like for 2 seconds, is that the Electronic Braking that you are talking about in the beginning?
That'd be hill assist. If your parking brake engages using a switch (like a window switch) that's the electronic brake mentioned. If your parking brake uses a big ol' lever then you don't have electronic parking brakes
Would you say your brake fade was reduced over the standard set, I shot a message but I'm really just trying to upgrade the brakes to handle mountain runs with a lot of braking bends and the occasional track day not reinvent the wheel.
You just need the brake caliper tool kit with the different adapters...the piston needs to turn as you apply pressure. You can't just push it back in with a regular piston tool. If you don't have a kit you can get one from a local auto zone with that lend a tool program or perhaps similar parts store where you live. I eventually bought a kit off amazon just to have since it was less than 20 bucks...
Is it normal when you change your discs and pads for there to be a metal sort of rubbing noise while spinning the rotor with the wheel off? Moves freely just the noise
Yes, brakes routinely make contact at low speeds. When traveling at higher speeds, brake pads will hover just barely off of the rotor surface. You only need to be concerned if you cannot turn the rotor or it is extremely difficult. If that is the case, check your fluid and ABS; assuming the caliper is in working order.
Could you offer advice and or a suitable product to upgrade the standard 272mm rotor on a 2016 mk3 Skoda Octavia VRS to something possibly around the 300mm+ diameter? The fronts are currently 340mm? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
I get a lot people like the idea of big brakes, but for you and anyone else who comes across this...big brakes aren't worth it unless you are competing or you have disposable income. It's not cheap to buy new rotors for the MK7 PP, and I am lucky that there's a company with a warrantee program that will let me replace my rotors for little to no cost for the life of the car.
just tried this a few weeks ago; we could _not_ get the pistons to compress without borrowing the tool from autozone. _other car parts stores are available._
I have invested in the shortest length triple square socket that I could find because accessibility on that top carrier bolt is a bitch. A suspension component blocks access to the top of the top bolt so maybe using that socket with a impact rated Universal Joint and a Impact wrench will do the trick.
Hard as shit, if you don't have the ability to buy a jack and some stands along with the tools needed then you shouldn't be driving this car. If you aren't willing to buy those tools because you want to skimp on expenses or because of your living situation then just pay someone to do the work.
Any plans to do a video on Mk7 Golf R rear brake pad swap with EPB? It would be immensely helpful. Also on your front brake pad replacement video, you might want to add text about the size of the rotor retention Torx screw. You mention it in this video but not the Front video. Cheers, C
Hey there ,great videos! I just got a new mk7 GTI, do you have any recommendations on how to properly break in your engine? What are the real world benefits of properly breaking it in? I've noticed my fuel economy being in the 16-20mpg range right off the lot, does that improve with break in? The owner's manual gives general guidelines, but discussion forums have varying opinions on how to best do it and I was wondering if you had any recommendations. I heard that constantly cruising at low RPMs isn't good for break in. If you could answer that in a new video, that would be great! Thanks!
This being a DIY one important part of the DIY was left out...No application of the anti squeal compound (Brake Grease) it must be applied unless you want squealing/sticking brakes zero mention of this important step especially for a DIY.
Why did you not clean off the carrier with at least brake clean snd maybe the piston holder snd why not put a little lithium grease on where the pads set into the carrier.I’ve never ever seen anybody not put lithium grease on contact areas when doing rear or front( for that fact) brake pads. Also while you had the rotors off clean the area with either scruffy pads or sandpaper where the rotor touches the axel surface and also apply a little lithium grease on those surfaces so future DIYers don’t have remove rotor problems. Very sloppy workmen ship.
- We appreciate your Support and Purchases! -
Find all of our brake options for MK7 HERE!
www.shopdap.com/make-model-year/volkswagen/gti/mk7-2015-present/braking.html
I just picked up a MK7 GTI and this channel is now my god DIY channel
Maybe we can be your go to place for parts too ; )
I'm in Canada so as long as the shipping price is right I am into it :), also, I sent you guys a long winded question on Facebook :p
Nahh visit humble mechanic channel and you may can get free paul install option
Couple things missing from this video that are not critical but definitley worth doing: relubricate the caliper guide pins, clean up the wheel hub surface with a wire wheel or brush, and apply antiseize to the hub.
VW specifically says not to apply antiseize to the hub, but to each their own
Apart from the rotor size, it's amazing how little the rear brakes have changed since the early Golfs.
They don't do much.
@@deanjet Rear do more than front brakes when using adaptve cruise a lot
Thanks to Paul for helping my dad and me change my brakes a couple weeks back. 👏
no way is this a real repair video.. you didn’t fumble something or cuss a single time! I’ve never made it through any maintenance without any of that lol
In front brake/rotor mark 7 install video @ 15:50 he says you DO NOT need to replace the carrier bolts per manual. Only clean them up!
I've never had to resort to using pilers to hold the caliper sliding pin, always managed to use a normal open ended 15mm spanner when loosening the 13mm rear caliper bolt on all VAG cars I've owned going back to the day of the MK2 Golfs.
Listen to what he said, "I don't have a wrench narrow enough..." Which means he had to find an alternative. I will most likely not use needle nose in the future as they do mar the bolt face and could potentially round it out if the loctite is holding strong. But it's a useful suggestion and it works decently enough in a pinch.
@@Osprey1994 Go and buy the correct tools to do the job properly and save yourself problems down the line.
I used a regular 15mm open ended wrench and it fit fine. 🤷🏻♂️
@@99SVTBolt Yep 15mm open and a 13mm ring or socket for the bolt.
On the facelift Tiguans, the rear caliper is electronic but the piston doesn't turn back in, it presses back in like a front caliper once you have the EPB retracted with VCDS.
I love the videos, but I really wish you had mentioned that we needed triple square bits when you mentioned that we needed the piston retraction kit so I could’ve made sure to get a set before taking my car apart
Your own lack of research man, this isnt the only source. FCP Euro makes a definitive guide.
Im used to do very all of my brakes job mysel but on this specific car the rear mounting bolt M14 are VERY hard to remove without much space to work with !! Same for the front ones they are 21mm and very tight !
The fronts aren't a problem, just turn the wheel and you can fit an impact wrench back there and break them loose. The rear one's however might give me some trouble.
I'm struggling with exactly this. The car needs to be on a lift to get a breaker bar under there. Very little room to work with.😒
7:30 Time Lapse huh, thats cause those triple square's are a pain to get out.. Especially when you're laying in the driveway..
Paul any chance you will do this for an R including VAGCOM for the epb? thanks
European gti's as well
No copper grease on the back of the pads?
Many pad manufacturers have started using coatings on the pad back plate to eliminate the need for grease. Some even come with an extra shim to install in between the pad and piston to further help reduce brake noise.
So the US version Mk7 doesn't have a electronic parking brake? I wondered that you were able to use a manual tool for pushing back the pistons... Anyway that makes the brake replacement a lot easier!!
The Golf R does the GTI doesnt
This is an awesome straight forward diy video but it’s a lot harder than my man here makes it seem, lol. I’ve cursed, yelled, & slammed shit in a matter of 10 min. I’d love to have an over head lift like this, life with a GTI would be soooo much simpler.
thanks for a great tutorial.
That lug stud tool is genius, need to buy one asap !
Would be nice if they simply put the bolts on the wheel bearing. The lug studs was a moronic design.
On my MK7 Golf TDI, I was able to replace the rotors WITHOUT removing the caliper carriers. That means there is no need for a triple square. It doesn't look like it, but the rotors will tilt and slide out easily with the carriers still on. I believe mine are the same rear calipers/rotors as the ones in this video.
Actually, not the same as these. Looks very similar, but the pads are different.
I am still willing to try, because I don't have the bolts on hand and I really don't want to drive 35 minutes to the dealer to get some from parts.
I had to take the carrier off to remove the rotor
I have a MK6 but I so find these videos helpful. Great vids
Awesome glad to hear. A lot of this install info crosses over to other models and the general info is almost always applicable.
Thanks for watching!
Paul
You mentioned that the 13mm caliper bolts were one time use on the front calipers. Are they not on the rear?
The front are actually M14, the rears are 21mm hex head
Why are the triple square calliper carrier bolts not reusable?
As far as I am aware they are not TTY fasteners. If the reason is due to the factory applied thread locker, you could reuse them by chasing the threads and reapplying the adhesive.
VW doesnt disclose why they need to be replaced so we cant offer any info on that.
Any bolt that has a torque spec of XX Nm +90° (or whatever it may be) should be replaced every time that it is taken off. VW has engineered the metallurgy of that bolt to stretch when it was installed correctly to prevent it from working loose through vibration. VW loves to use them on critical components. Those stretch bolts are therefore weakened from their initial use, and one risks them snapping when reusing them.
'Torque to Yield' bolts.... I believe ARP Fasteners has some insightful reading for this.
From what I've read, anytime a torque value is applied followed by an angle, the fitting is TTY.
BE AWARE: The rear brake caliper carrier is an M14 triple square not an M13.
And it needs to be a short tool not a long one otherwise can't get to the top bolt 😭
@@fast_eddie3441 Funny, had that same problem on my mk6 jetta, but it was the buttom bolt that I couldn't get to (only have a 1 3/4in long bit). All I could do was remove a bolt/bushing from the frame arm; not sure of that bolts purpose, but it left about a 1 1/8 hole.
Yeh, I read a post somewhere that a guy couldn't get his m14 to fit, so he bought a m13 for like $15 bucks and still had a problem. I told him all he needed to do was use a pick to clean out the crud and tap the socket in lightly and he'd be all set, especially with this type of socket
@@fast_eddie3441 where can you buy a short one, the rotor doesnt come off without removing the carrier. i ordered a triple sqaure from FCP but its too long xD. im searching online for one but CANNOT find a shallow short or stubby 14mm
@@AnthonyDeCroceI just picked up a set on amazon for 20 bucks.
Thats a sick looking GTI. Thanks for the vid!
Thanks for the love
you can just slide out the rotors, instead of taking out the carrier, no?
Do you really need to take the carrier off? Of so need new bolts correct? Is this also the same case with the fronts?
The caliper carrier sits super close to the face of the rotor.
You make it look so easy
Hey DAP. I want to upgrade my brakes. Can I purchase larger two-piece rotors and calipers for the front only and move the OEM front setup to the rear?
No, brakes don’t work that way. The front calipers wouldn’t mount the same way, and they also have no provision for the park brake.
If you can't do the research on brakes and how to upgrade them, please continue to pay a technician to do any and all work on your car.
People make 5:50 look so easy. Mine are NOT budging!!!!! I gripped both sides. Been trying for two days. Help! Why’s is it so tight!!! I even used a sledge hammer on the wrench
Would this also be applicable for a Mk7 GLI?
Is taking the carrier out absolutely necessary? I've seen other videos where they don't take it off and just slip the rotor in behind it.
Any idea why when trying to compress the caliper piston it just keeps turning and turning. Doesn't seem to be compressing after many many turns so I still can't get the caliper over the pads.
I have a question I just did my rear pads and rotorson my 2016 and the ABS traction and airbag lights are coming on every now and then since I've done it. Everything went fine with my brakes, and nothing was broken. What can I do to reset this.??
This video doesn't show bleeding the brake lines while compressing the caliper piston. If your brakes are being replaced due to wearing out, you should bleed your lines while compressing. If you do not, it can damage your ABS control module. Additionally, check your Brake Fluid reservoir to see if it is overfilled. Mechanics routinely top up brake fluid as pads wear down. When you put on new pads, less fluid is needed due to the pistons being compressed. If your fluid level is good, I would do a full bleed and replace your brake fluid, there are plenty of videos on youtube and it is not as difficult as it looks. This may resolve your ABS issues, unless the module is damaged. I know I am 5 months late, but I hope this helps.
Hi, if you change electronic parking brake do you need to code it t the ECU ?
My 2019 GTI has the hill brake assist. Would that need the vagcom use?
Came for instruction. Stayed for this absolute MAN. 🥵🥵
Are the carrier bracket bolts also torqued the same on the bigger PP rear brakes? 90nm plus 90 degrees? Thx 😊
This is ridiculous how many unusual tools are required for this job. Plus the annoyance of the one time use bolts. Give me a break.
I know. I can’t wait to get rid of my vw. Hate German engineering.
There’s a reason why we don’t worry about parts being stolen off our rides. Honda has that issue. As does KIA.
The rear pistons needs to spin while being compressed. That's what the notches are for. The fronts are hollow and can just be compressed back in. You can see the head of tool spinning as he compresses the rear piston back in, but it's never explicitly stated that's what needs to happen.
@3:44
I'm looking to replace my rotors with some Brembo 09.A200.1X. Do you know if these will fit a US SPEC 2016 GTI S? I'm stationed in Germany. I've been looking for parts locally around here to avoid paying crazy U.S. shipping fees
Can the electronic parking brake on the R be taken care of with the ODBeleven?
Yup
I noticed in your Front brake DIY video, the caliper bolts need to be replaced as per VW, are the rears the same?
Yes. He mentioned that in this video as well.
@@jameshaulenbeek5931 he mentions caliper carrier bolts in this video, he reuses the 13mm caliper bolts. Believe in the ft video he reused caliper cartier bolts and replaced the caliper bolts
@@dave-osmodernlife6885 he says it around the 11:40 mark in the video.
VW says replace them all, that’s what I’m going to do.
Paul I just replaced my front brakes but my Pad wear sensor is still turning on. How do I get rid of that warning light? Also, my rears need to get done as well but they dont have a sensor.
On an R (or any VW with electronic E-brake), does the rear caliper still need to be screwed in, or does retracting it electronically remove the need for the special tool (other than VCDS/VagCom)?
Still need the tool to screw it in. The Electronic Parking brake is only for parking and doesnt actually control the braking of the vehicle.
No lube or brake cleaner required anymore?
Did you open the fluid reservoir before you did that?
Correction That was at 11:25 time in video not 15:50
Great video, thanks for explaining everything
Can I swap front caliper from a base, to the performance pack calipers? If so what do I need besides calipers pads and rotors
We will be talking about on askdap 106
9:20 you will damaged the wheel hub! You can get bent hub.
What's the part number for the caliper bolt that's one time use?
Excellent video
Those 14mm triple square caliper mount bolts are a BITCH to remove if you have more miles/time on the car. Especially if you don't have it on a lift where you can get a big enough breaker bar under the car.
I'd recommend using pb blaster or another penetrating oil prior to attempting to break these loose. The rotor set screw wasn't too bad.
I am making my second attempt at those bolts without a lift. I bought a really short 1/2" Drive M14 Capri socket, impact rated universal joint, extensions and a impact wrench (Dewalt) to get it done. I have worked on VWs for twenty years but never had so much trouble with accessibility due to that multi-link rear suspension on the MK7.
@@paulherbert5548 I just went through this, those 14M triple squares about did me in. You're right, without a lift it's very hard to get leverage. I got them out with a 14" breaker bar on some and a flex head ratchet on the rest. My 1/2 impact wouldn't touch them. I'm buying a 24" ratcheting breaker bar for the next time ....
@@benriker9589 Hey, I too was successful! I bought a pair of those light weight tubular Schwaben jacks stands and positioned one of them under the lifting arm of my NAPA 3 ton floor jack to get access to those bolts. I lifted the Golf about 16", measured at the center-line of the rear wheel hub, shoved the jack stand under the lift arm, raised it to meet the arm and inserted the locking pin to keep things safe. Once you have the height and a good jack stand in place for peace of mind its a lot easier. A flex head ratchet is best if you use any socket longer than the really short M14 Capri socket. I didn't even need the universal joint that I purchased, using just a 15 1/2" breaker bar for all 4 bolts. If I remember correctly, the lower? bolts required me to use long extensions to get the breaker positioned away from the strut/lower control arm suspension pieces. I was even able to get my torque wrench in there to tighten those stretch carrier bolts.
www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/aluminum-3-ton-jack-stands-pair/005945sch01a/
www.lowes.com/pd/Capri-Tools-14-mm-MT14-Stubby-XZN-Triple-Square-Bit-Socket-1-2-in-Drive/1002616182
www.toolsource.com/12-in-drive-c-194_252_562_699/12-drive-chrome-flex-handle-breaker-bar-1512-l-p-122091.html
www.harryepstein.com/micro-adjustable-torque-wrench-50-250-ft-lbs.html
www.napaonline.com/en/p/NLE7916420
Do you think that you can adapt a button of shift (mode, stability) to the cut out?
after looking at those top caliper carrier bolts, how do you get a torque wrench in there to tighten them. Some one gives us some insight here ...
How would this job change if you have an electronic parking brake?
You need vcds or a scan tool to retract the piston.
is the process same for a 2017 MK7 Alltrack? Also are same tools necessary as well?
I'm curious if I can upgrade my rear brake pads on my 15 GTI no pp to 312 like the front rotors?
You want bigger back brakes?
You don't need to, and you don't want to...I have the PP and brakes are so damn expensive with these 340mm fronts. Does the car stop well? Yeah, but for street driving you would be better served with a a rotor from a company you know won't have issues with cracking or warping, and some really good pads from HAWK or EBC.
Wait... A quick question... I have a 2016 GTI Performance Package SE (manual)... When the car is on a hill it stops by itself like for 2 seconds, is that the Electronic Braking that you are talking about in the beginning?
That'd be hill assist. If your parking brake engages using a switch (like a window switch) that's the electronic brake mentioned. If your parking brake uses a big ol' lever then you don't have electronic parking brakes
youfoundisaac Thanks!
Would you say your brake fade was reduced over the standard set, I shot a message but I'm really just trying to upgrade the brakes to handle mountain runs with a lot of braking bends and the occasional track day not reinvent the wheel.
answer coming on AskDAP 49
+Deutsche Auto Parts Awesome
Do I need to have the special tool for the rear brake caliper piston or can I just use a regular caliper piston tool?
You just need the brake caliper tool kit with the different adapters...the piston needs to turn as you apply pressure. You can't just push it back in with a regular piston tool. If you don't have a kit you can get one from a local auto zone with that lend a tool program or perhaps similar parts store where you live. I eventually bought a kit off amazon just to have since it was less than 20 bucks...
Any idea what the front/rear brake bias is ,like 70/30?
Also is it any different for the GTI vs the R?
Sorry I dont know the bias split
Paul
Is it normal when you change your discs and pads for there to be a metal sort of rubbing noise while spinning the rotor with the wheel off? Moves freely just the noise
Yes, brakes routinely make contact at low speeds. When traveling at higher speeds, brake pads will hover just barely off of the rotor surface. You only need to be concerned if you cannot turn the rotor or it is extremely difficult. If that is the case, check your fluid and ABS; assuming the caliper is in working order.
Mk7 have regular, Cable operated E-Brakes over there?
Here in Germany i´ve never seen one with Cable operated ones.
Yes the GTI and Golf use cables the Golf R used electronic parking brake.... VW is Keeping them as inexpensive as possible for the US market.
It’s also more fun to pull a U turn in the snow.
Could you offer advice and or a suitable product to upgrade the standard 272mm rotor on a 2016 mk3 Skoda Octavia VRS to something possibly around the 300mm+ diameter? The fronts are currently 340mm? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
I get a lot people like the idea of big brakes, but for you and anyone else who comes across this...big brakes aren't worth it unless you are competing or you have disposable income. It's not cheap to buy new rotors for the MK7 PP, and I am lucky that there's a company with a warrantee program that will let me replace my rotors for little to no cost for the life of the car.
Do you need to take off the brake fluid cap when pushing the pistons back in? Thanks, great videos.
You will need to remove the cap & keep an eye on the fluid level as you push the caliper pistons back as it will rise in the reservoir.
@@derekcable Fluid level shouldn't rise so much as to cause a problem.
@@Osprey1994 Only if it's not been topped up since the last time there was a pad change.
If it has your need to bleed off the excess brake fluid.
Is this really a vw mk7? It has exhuast down the middle like an mk6 golf r...am I missing something here?
Its a MK7, DAP has a rear/middle exit exhaust
+guamdubber got it. Thanks
Yup as mentioned its a MK7 it has a custom center exit exhaust on it.
Always great videos from DAP. Do you really have to turn while compressing the piston?
yes, on this vehicle, only the rears
just tried this a few weeks ago; we could _not_ get the pistons to compress without borrowing the tool from autozone.
_other car parts stores are available._
for performance pack brakes, typically how much would they cost to replace?
MK7 GTI Performance Pack Red Stuff Pads can be found here
deutscheautoparts.com/ebc-red-stuff-rear-pads-1k0698451k.html
Anywhere between 400-700 depending on what you are buying.
Need to mention bedding the brakes. Even if you don't demonstrate. Just as important as pumping the calipers before moving the vehicle/.
Great video
Thanks for the tip! Cheers again
Carrier bolts are impossible if they're old and you don't have a lift; no room to work and limited space for longer bars
I have invested in the shortest length triple square socket that I could find because accessibility on that top carrier bolt is a bitch. A suspension
component blocks access to the top of the top bolt so maybe using that socket with a impact rated Universal Joint and a Impact wrench will do the trick.
why Dont you have gearwrenches?! it's 2020 (well, 2017 in your case)
anyone has idea how to easily remove the two big bolts on the back without lifting up the car?
Hard as shit, if you don't have the ability to buy a jack and some stands along with the tools needed then you shouldn't be driving this car. If you aren't willing to buy those tools because you want to skimp on expenses or because of your living situation then just pay someone to do the work.
@@Osprey1994 finally, I jack up the car. put the socket and long wrench, sit on ground, use my leg to kick the wrench.
Any plans to do a video on Mk7 Golf R rear brake pad swap with EPB? It would be immensely helpful.
Also on your front brake pad replacement video, you might want to add text about the size of the rotor retention Torx screw. You mention it in this video but not the Front video.
Cheers,
C
I had a retention Torx screw. It's rusting in a landfill somewhere. Dumbest thing ever.
Hey there ,great videos! I just got a new mk7 GTI, do you have any recommendations on how to properly break in your engine? What are the real world benefits of properly breaking it in? I've noticed my fuel economy being in the 16-20mpg range right off the lot, does that improve with break in? The owner's manual gives general guidelines, but discussion forums have varying opinions on how to best do it and I was wondering if you had any recommendations. I heard that constantly cruising at low RPMs isn't good for break in. If you could answer that in a new video, that would be great! Thanks!
Is the GTI PP rear brake install the same?
This kit fits a Jetta mk7
he didn't clean his carrier or use copper grease!!
Lots of pads these days don’t require that
This being a DIY one important part of the DIY was left out...No application of the anti squeal compound (Brake Grease) it must be applied unless you want squealing/sticking brakes zero mention of this important step especially for a DIY.
Lot's of missing info and steps in my opinion.
Why did you not clean off the carrier with at least brake clean snd maybe the piston holder snd why not put a little lithium grease on where the pads set into the carrier.I’ve never ever seen anybody not put lithium grease on contact areas when doing rear or front( for that fact) brake pads. Also while you had the rotors off clean the area with either scruffy pads or sandpaper where the rotor touches the axel surface and also apply a little lithium grease on those surfaces so future DIYers don’t have remove rotor problems. Very sloppy workmen ship.
Plugging the salty cracker channel? with the re re reeeeee lol
so the fronts use normal bolts but the rears use triple squares for..... some unknown reason. what in the fuk what is wrong with german engineers
U put the rotors on the wrong side.
能書き長すぎやがな
In front brake install video @ 15.50 he says carrier bolts do not need to be replaced per manual. Only cleaned up.
Is this the same install for performance pack/non-pp brake mk7 gti’s?
are the torque specs same for pp rear brakes?