The most critical part of the brake replacement was not even shown in this video. The vehicle shown obviously hasn't been subjected to the harsh environments associated with the rust-belt that runs through the US and Canada. Most often, you need to pry or hammer the pads out of the caliper bracket and then brush or file off the pack rust. The caliper bracket needs to be cleaned, lubricated and loaded with pads before you install it on the car. This allows you to test for pad binding between the ears and the bracket channels. It's also easier to install the pads when the bracket is on the bench, or clamped in a bench vise. Then, you need to remove, inspect and clean the slider pins and apply new ceramic paste to the pins. Inspect the rubber boots for cracks. This was not even mentioned!!
That's a lot of words/names for parts most people have never heard of unless one's been at this for a long time in which case they wouldn't need yt to learn this.
Thank you so much for the video - Really helpful and extremely detailed, especially list out the tools you need and torque settings - I went for Brembo's instead of OEM (Brembo supply new lock bolts with the pads) and the total parts (incl sundries) was around £264 GBP - BTW Those calliper carrier torque settlings.................~Crazy
marc, what Mk7 did you fit the Brembos to? I’m in the UK like you and am planning to do this work to my Mk7 Performance Pack MY 16. Who supplied you with the Brembos? I like the idea of Brembos supplying the pads. tubebank
@@dkosherov20 while not the intention of this video, those springs are often bent in on purpose in track/racing applications or removed altogether. No special tools needed, just a lil squeeze via your preferred pliers.
I strongly recommend putting some brake component grease in the carrier channels were the pads slide also on the back of the pad that mates with the piston but not copper slip. Also some silicone grease on the pin sliders
Great video, as usual. What would you recommend for an OEM equivalent set of front pads that don’t shed as much DUST as the OEM VW pads? Pad dust is my only complaint about my R.
It will not hurt anything; just be sure to lay some towels down in case your reservoir is too full (check and remove excess fluid first before doing this if it is).
I don't know anything about brakes. The brake light came on. 2018 Golf R. Is it likely for the front brakes only? Also, can you replace only the pads. and not rotors? Thank you for the videos.
It depends on the car. I had one model Honda that wore out 3 sets of rear brakes to one of the fronts. A friend had the exact model and his was the same. My T-roc is wearing the rears slightly more than the front so it just depends on the car, brake pad compound etc. Most cars wear the fronts quicker but in saying that, the new pads often have a thicker lining on the front, therefore they can all wear out at the same time. As far as the rotors go, you can get them machined if they will still be thick enough after machining. The minimum thickness is nearly always cast into the rotors on the inside but you can’t normally see where it’s cast until you remove them. The dealership should be able to tell you what the minimum thickness is for front and rear. You need a micrometer to be able to get past the unworn lip to measure them. To be honest, it’s not worth it. It would cost me $80 for both of my front rotors to get machined and yet it is only $190 for both brand new ones. Rears are even cheaper. If you opt to machine them, they might clean up in spec but soon after, they may wear to below minimum thickness. It’s not worth scrimping on.
@Fcp : do you guys recommend bleeding the brakes after doing this, or is pumping the brakes enough? I did my first ever replacement with the help of this video, and I just pumped up yhe brakes.. they feel firm to me, so i would think i dont need to bleed them anymore
I know it says 120nm torque on the bolts in the manual, but I just did a track day and all of the bolts came loose on a wheel. I can only assume this was due to the brake heat expanding the holes.I will be torqueing mine up a little more from now on. Thanks for the video
This is normally caused by dirt between the mating surfaces when torque is applied thus reducing tension between the wheel and hub. So clean it or give it more torque.
@fcp euro I have a 2015 E-golf and I can’t find instructions to replace the brake pads for that vehicle anywhere. Is it the same process as any MK7 golf?
Discs don’t warp (1:13). Pads deposit lining material and can do so unevenly when there is hub thickness variation (11:01) or improper cool down that allows for uneven pad deposit.
I have a Mk 7.5 GTI and I started on this side as well. My EBC red stuffs have the connector for the socket but on this side my GTI doesn’t have anywhere to connect to. What do I do. The brakes were a fit
MIke - the psste under brake disc ought to be evenly distributed over hub. So You can go ahead and turn the disc couple of times before securing it. This is to avoid the micro wobbling of the disc later. Great job overall :)
Everyone has his own methods. I know how to do a brake job but i like to see how others do it just so i can maybe learn some new tricks. A little gripe i have with your method is the use of anti seize on the hub. Yeah it makes the next job more easy especially in a salty environment but you are not supposed to change the coefficient of friction between the rotor and the hub. You see, the wheel bolts job is to put enough pressure on the surfaces between wheel and rotor and also rotor to hub. If you put lubricant on any of these surfaces you cause a situation where the wheel bolts might experience shearing force and they are really not designed for that kind of force. All bolts are designed for tension force and not shearing force. Does it matter? Probably not. Ive never heard of sheared bolts from the use of anti seize. But theres a right way of doing it and theres a more right way of doing it. One more thing. Especially when working on a lift id always recommend the use of a removal helper tool. Just a metal rod with a threaded end. You take the first bolt out and then thread in the helper. Sometimes these wheels jump of the hub when you take out the last bolt and they can cause some expensive damage to material and mechanic.
Yes you can get them machined if they end up thicker than minimum required thickness ( this measurement is usually cast on the inside of the rotor) but really it’s not worth it. Machining can be more than half the cost of new rotors and if you’re doing the job yourself, it can be a pain to drop them off for machining and pick them up again. If you have the new rotors ready to go, you can just get the job done and not have the worry of them wearing below the minimum thickness soon after.
the best vid on yt on changing brakes on a vw on your own, clean and direct, thank you !
thank you! i did my front brakes on my 2019 gti today thanks to this vid and all the information!!!
Are you guys going to make a video for the rear brakes of a mk7/7.5?
Absolutely brilliant from start to finish, so easy to follow 👍
Well done! My kit is on the way. I was going to pay a shop to install it. After watching this, I think I can handle it. Thanks!
The most critical part of the brake replacement was not even shown in this video. The vehicle shown obviously hasn't been subjected to the harsh environments associated with the rust-belt that runs through the US and Canada. Most often, you need to pry or hammer the pads out of the caliper bracket and then brush or file off the pack rust. The caliper bracket needs to be cleaned, lubricated and loaded with pads before you install it on the car. This allows you to test for pad binding between the ears and the bracket channels. It's also easier to install the pads when the bracket is on the bench, or clamped in a bench vise. Then, you need to remove, inspect and clean the slider pins and apply new ceramic paste to the pins. Inspect the rubber boots for cracks. This was not even mentioned!!
That's a lot of words/names for parts most people have never heard of unless one's been at this for a long time in which case they wouldn't need yt to learn this.
I agree, if this is not done then the new brakes won't last long.
He knows his stuff . Brilliant
Thank you for the good clear demonstration😊
Thank you so much for the video - Really helpful and extremely detailed, especially list out the tools you need and torque settings - I went for Brembo's instead of OEM (Brembo supply new lock bolts with the pads) and the total parts (incl sundries) was around £264 GBP - BTW Those calliper carrier torque settlings.................~Crazy
marc, what Mk7 did you fit the Brembos to? I’m in the UK like you and am planning to do this work to my Mk7 Performance Pack MY 16. Who supplied you with the Brembos? I like the idea of Brembos supplying the pads. tubebank
Great video! Nice easy clear instructions
Thank you!
Reversely mounted break pad from the inside 😉
“improving “ the shape of pads springs with pliers doesn’t look very professional too.
@@dkosherov20 while not the intention of this video, those springs are often bent in on purpose in track/racing applications or removed altogether. No special tools needed, just a lil squeeze via your preferred pliers.
Great video. We have 2017 golf s. Same tools needed?
Very well done video. I’m used to lube the guide pin in my Honda. Why that wasn’t done here? Is it dry?
I strongly recommend putting some brake component grease in the carrier channels were the pads slide also on the back of the pad that mates with the piston but not copper slip. Also some silicone grease on the pin sliders
Very well done, well detailed and easy to follow.
Great video, as usual. What would you recommend for an OEM equivalent set of front pads that don’t shed as much DUST as the OEM VW pads? Pad dust is my only complaint about my R.
Mike, are the vw golf Mark 8 brakes any different?
Is opening the brake reservoir while you’re compressing the piston recommended?
It will not hurt anything; just be sure to lay some towels down in case your reservoir is too full (check and remove excess fluid first before doing this if it is).
Thanks lot for well guided explain about all process of brake repair.
Just happened on this. GREAT explanation/guide. 👍👏
I don't know anything about brakes. The brake light came on. 2018 Golf R. Is it likely for the front brakes only? Also, can you replace only the pads. and not rotors? Thank you for the videos.
It depends on the car. I had one model Honda that wore out 3 sets of rear brakes to one of the fronts. A friend had the exact model and his was the same. My T-roc is wearing the rears slightly more than the front so it just depends on the car, brake pad compound etc. Most cars wear the fronts quicker but in saying that, the new pads often have a thicker lining on the front, therefore they can all wear out at the same time. As far as the rotors go, you can get them machined if they will still be thick enough after machining. The minimum thickness is nearly always cast into the rotors on the inside but you can’t normally see where it’s cast until you remove them. The dealership should be able to tell you what the minimum thickness is for front and rear. You need a micrometer to be able to get past the unworn lip to measure them. To be honest, it’s not worth it. It would cost me $80 for both of my front rotors to get machined and yet it is only $190 for both brand new ones. Rears are even cheaper. If you opt to machine them, they might clean up in spec but soon after, they may wear to below minimum thickness. It’s not worth scrimping on.
Excellent instructions. Appreciate the diy video!
@Fcp : do you guys recommend bleeding the brakes after doing this, or is pumping the brakes enough?
I did my first ever replacement with the help of this video, and I just pumped up yhe brakes.. they feel firm to me, so i would think i dont need to bleed them anymore
I know it says 120nm torque on the bolts in the manual, but I just did a track day and all of the bolts came loose on a wheel. I can only assume this was due to the brake heat expanding the holes.I will be torqueing mine up a little more from now on. Thanks for the video
This is normally caused by dirt between the mating surfaces when torque is applied thus reducing tension between the wheel and hub. So clean it or give it more torque.
@fcp euro I have a 2015 E-golf and I can’t find instructions to replace the brake pads for that vehicle anywhere. Is it the same process as any MK7 golf?
Great video, thanks! Love FCP Euro
Discs don’t warp (1:13). Pads deposit lining material and can do so unevenly when there is hub thickness variation (11:01) or improper cool down that allows for uneven pad deposit.
I have a Mk 7.5 GTI and I started on this side as well. My EBC red stuffs have the connector for the socket but on this side my GTI doesn’t have anywhere to connect to. What do I do. The brakes were a fit
Ótimo! Tenho um MK7 e estou colocando pastilhas de cerâmica da Bosch QuietCast!!
MIke - the psste under brake disc ought to be evenly distributed over hub. So You can go ahead and turn the disc couple of times before securing it. This is to avoid the micro wobbling of the disc later. Great job overall :)
Great clear instructions thanks for taking the time to do this video
Well done, clean and easy.
Thank you! Cheers!
Everyone has his own methods. I know how to do a brake job but i like to see how others do it just so i can maybe learn some new tricks. A little gripe i have with your method is the use of anti seize on the hub. Yeah it makes the next job more easy especially in a salty environment but you are not supposed to change the coefficient of friction between the rotor and the hub. You see, the wheel bolts job is to put enough pressure on the surfaces between wheel and rotor and also rotor to hub. If you put lubricant on any of these surfaces you cause a situation where the wheel bolts might experience shearing force and they are really not designed for that kind of force. All bolts are designed for tension force and not shearing force. Does it matter? Probably not. Ive never heard of sheared bolts from the use of anti seize. But theres a right way of doing it and theres a more right way of doing it. One more thing. Especially when working on a lift id always recommend the use of a removal helper tool. Just a metal rod with a threaded end. You take the first bolt out and then thread in the helper. Sometimes these wheels jump of the hub when you take out the last bolt and they can cause some expensive damage to material and mechanic.
Very satisfying to watch, thank you 👌👍
No need to remove, clean and lube the guide pins? 😮
Best on UA-cam......
Same process for a mk7 and mk7.5?
Are the original rotors not able to be repaired when they have such a lip?
Not if they have a lip.
Yes you can get them machined if they end up thicker than minimum required thickness ( this measurement is usually cast on the inside of the rotor) but really it’s not worth it. Machining can be more than half the cost of new rotors and if you’re doing the job yourself, it can be a pain to drop them off for machining and pick them up again. If you have the new rotors ready to go, you can just get the job done and not have the worry of them wearing below the minimum thickness soon after.
Where can but that exact drive ratchet that takes off the 21mm bolts
You are a national treasure. This is awesome.
Thank you!
excellent video. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Those caliper brackets need a boat load of torque.. damn...
Very good
I always thought the mk7 and mk7.5 needed VCDS to draw the piston back in…..
Only the backs do
Tremendous!
822 newton meters are quite a lot for wheel bolts 😅😅👀
822 newton meters for the lug nuts???? Ha. That's 606 ft lbs. I think you have a little calculator error ;-)
He clearly said 122 N⋅m?
Remove and grease the guide pins too!
They don't have to be greased because that rubber is self lubricating. But checking and cleaning the bolts is a good idea
STOP the music....
good vid, awful music... we want a DIY vid. not a music video