Mate you're an absolute champion I had a problem with shift solenoid c and the hold light was flashing transmission takes off in third gear, im a motor mechanic with basic transmission knowledge i didn't know how to tackle this job until i watched your video you pretty much explained everything step by step and clear instructions,i ended up buying a set of 6 solenoids on ebay and replaced the lot surprisingly they wer cheap $50 for 6 the car drove beautifully with perfect shift pattern Thank you for sharing
Hi I you are the most informative transmission technician I have watched. I have a Mazda 323 1.6. Revs very high and won't change gears, replaced all solenoids and speed sensors. Finally I replaced transmission and cleared codes There's little improvement if I press hold button but revs up to 3500 rpm before it shifts. No codes coming up.
FYI for anyone doing a Transmission Oil change 1999 - 2003 Protege and Protege 5 owners and Fords with same transmission. The proper transmission fluid type is Mazda M V or Mazda M 5 ! I see many people using the wrong transmission oil. Mazda's name for this transmission is FN4A-EL, Ford's name for this transmission is 4F27E, "On Mazda vehicles, this transmission uses Mazda M5 fluid (Mazda part number: 0000-77-112E-01), which is NOT Mercon V or Mercon LV according to Mazda Technical Service Bulletin 0500116. This fluid is made by Idemitsu Kosan (according to the label on the back of the Mazda bottle). Idemitsu sells the equivalent Type-M fluid in the aftermarket. The equivalent Ford fluid is FNR5 (Ford part number: XT-9-QMM5). Moreover, Mazda vehicles have "M V" written on the dipstick handle." Mazda type M5 ATF is not the same fluid as Ford Mercon V or Ford Mercon LV. Mazda type M5 ATF has a greater viscosity than Ford Mercon V and Ford Mercon LV in low temperatures. Mazda type M5 ATF has a greater anti-judder specification than Ford Mercon V and Ford Mercon LV.
in australia if an oil company says the fluid is compatible, then they are liable for issues, not sure in other countries though. thanks for that info cheers
Just in case you don't know,,, The valve body is color coded so you can't get the wires in the wrong spot,,if you look on the valve body it will have a letter corresponding to the color of the wire connector. Connector colors match letter codes cast into the solenoid body B= black N= neutral G=green
Thank you for your video. I recently changed a couple of A and B solenoids but seems that I will need to change the C one because when put into D the car will jolt. According to the chart, it seems that the A and C are involved in this. Also the code P0705 is showing.
hi, I`d need more info. any codes? maybe have a look at the pwm solenoids, they operate from varying amps, pulse width modulated solenoids regulate the fluid from the solenoids to the clutches, whereas the shift solenoids are just on/off. cheers
@@YepThatsIt fnr5 2007 ford fusion. Code p0757 shift solenoid b stuck open. Car goes into drive have to ease off accelerator for it to change to second. I change the solenoid pack fluid car still does the same thing and code is back after eracing it.
I appreciate for all the useful info. given here and in other videos. I have a 2010 Mazda 3 BL 1.6 with the same auto tranny. It is 171 000 km. Tranny liquid was half-changed twice (40-80k) and completely flushed(120-160 k) twice. Filters replaced as well. Fluid level cold/warm is just perfect. When the engine is cold, shifting 1-2 sucks. You feel pushing forward. 2-3 very reluctant. When the engine is warm everything is ok but on the highway again very reluctant to speed up when shift down 4 to 3. No engine light no codes at all. Even the log has no problem. I am checking it with full version of Forscan Lite. Nowadays, I am thinking of changing the whole solenoid block. If I notice any difference, I will write again. Any idea, advise appreciated. Have a great day. Addition: When the speed is 70 km/h , transmissions locking itself is very noticable.
hi, a mechanical fault or even a leaking solenoid won`t record a code.... always check the basics first...fluid level at correct temp, electrical connections, battery charged and strong...then you would take trans pan off and make sure filter isn`t blocked or fluid sludgy, these trans are known for flogging out pressure regulator bore in valve body ( see sonnax.com ), also end covers wear out...you can also get an adjustable band bolt instead of the set length type...check accumulator seals as well if you take valve body off and that servo rod bore in case isn't worn out or that the rod hasn't come away from the piston.... cheers
Quick question. According to your chart if shift solenoid A and B, if either one of those are not working would you not have reverse? Also if apply 12 volt to the A&B solenoid shouldn't they click. Neither one of mine are clicking and one is reading 17 ohm and other reading 18 ohm. Thanks
hi, sometime the click is hard to hear. these are on/off solenoids so test for leaking. your ohms seem to be within specs but also depends on temperature. is yours in a ford or mazda ? as they name them differently...see www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/377-4f27e-solenoid-identification . hope that helps cheers
hi, could do ? but i`d need more info. both on/off solenoids are applied in rev. check all the basics first. sheesh do people even read other questions and comments ? see our other 4f27e vids ua-cam.com/play/PLQLkuOdKuFouX67h2Mj0wetEaMSyXnRz_.html cheers
Hi i have ford lynx 1999 and it doesnt immediately engage to drive(it takes about a minute or two before it jerks and engages to drive) but would always shift immediately to reverse... does it seem to have solenoid issues too?
hi, any fault codes? always check the basics first...fluid level at correct temp, electrical connections, battery charged and strong...then you would take trans pants off and make sure filter isn`t blocked or fluid sludgy, these trans are known for flogging out pressure regulator bore in valve body ( see sonnax.com ), also end covers wear out...you can also get an adjustable band bolt instead of the set length type...check accumulator seals as well if you take valve body off and that servo rod bore in case isn't worn out or that the rod hasn't come away from the piston...let me know how you go. cheers
Good afternoon. I ask you to give advice. Should I change the EPC linear pressure solenoid - to a new one? Car mileage 180 thousand kilometers. There are no problems with the gearbox. Should I change this solenoid - for prevention? I understand that the solenoid works constantly with high frequency. What do you say? Thank.
hi, the choice is yours. if you are concerned I would flush it and also add extra magnets to stop fine metal from being attracted to the solenoids. cheers
I have a mazda protege5 that the o/d off blinks on dash. Would this solve my problem? When its cold hesitates to move forward but when is on tempeture runs fine
hi, most fault codes are for electrical issues. check all the basics first including strong and charged battery, good earth connections, good electrical connections as well as the obvious. cheers
Hello and thanks for this video. I have a question I'm trying to identify solenoid E on my nephews 2004 Mazda 3 sport 4 speed with the 4F27E 4 speed transmission. I have a p0771 code with slipping gears. I have done a lot of research online and can't seem to conclusively pin point which solenoid is e. I know its one of 3 identical solenoids held in with the bracket, opposite solenoids a and b. One site says its the one closest to the filter housing. Another says it the one in the middle. Please help. Thanks Robin
hi, always best to check basics first and do the easiest/cheapest remedies first. if you have fault codes it will be an electrical issue, just keep in mind that a leaking solenoid wont give you a fault code. you can get adjustable anchor bolts for these so you can adjust the band ( see my other vids ) and also you can air pressure test the apply ports once valve body has been removed. also check the servo piton rod hasnt broken or worn the bore out in the case. beer link is in description, just send as a gift or paypal will take a fee. cheers
Hi. In the beginning of this video you mentioned there was something with shift a and b solenoids tend to break and that you would show how to fix. But I did not see you cover it I. The video. 2007 ford fusion 2.3l 65000 miles. ObdII reads shift solenoid stuck on. I have no 3rd or 4th whatsoever. I've run 12v to it it clicks . Measured resistance an it's good. Checked all connections. Please help!!
hi, sorry I did say that...I will get around to it when I can. basically it will show the little earth plate inside the solenoid that connects one end of coil winding to the body of the solenoid. these plates are 99% of the time, the bit that breaks as it will flex continually through operation. we do a little mod that eliminates that problem when we recondition those solenoids ( the shift on/off solenoids ). you may find your answer in past comments on here, please have a look. cheers
I have. They swapped it out with another new one. Same exact thing. My old shit b solenoid works. Passed all resistance and ohm test. I'm in the process of flushing the value body now. Could there be a pressure issue in the value causing the soleniod to stay open?
Great video! Is it possible either my torque converter or shift solenoid is gummed up and not working properly and yet tests fine with an ohm meter and makes the click noise when voltage applied? It is a year 91 mazda with A4LD trans.
How's it goin, it sat around for a few years here and there, it has 80,000 mi, reverse engages and drives perfect, but all of the drive gears wont engage unless I step on the gas real hard and it will kind of jerk and start a rolling about 10mph around the block a few times. It did get a bit low on fluid and started hesitating on engaging into gear and rough shift, but caught it pretty quick and filled it up and had a flush done (at this point I still had drive just a little rough). Drove perfect for a day and then starting having the problems i described first, tried pumping a bit out and used lucas slip fix and did not help. Next I was going to try solenoids and filter, new fluid, any insight you have would be appreciated!
Hi, start with the basics first, change filter and service etc.... you can also check solenoids but if it has been sitting for a few years I'd check all external electrical connections and spray some wd40 in those.... make sure battery is good and charged as well and see how that goes...if that all fails then will mean a more major repair might be needed....sorry hard to diagnose like this but hope helps...goodluck
Hello dear. I have this trasmission on my mazda lantis and in morning start the 1 gear is like in nutral and i get p0730 code ,after few min i shut off the engine and start again and the gearbox is fine and work properly. What do you think the problem?
hi, check all basics first then may be due for a filter service? as sensors and solenoids warm up, so does the electrical resistance. the fluid also thins out when it warms up. cheers
Thanks for the great video. I have a mazda3 that will stop all of a sudden wen in drive and will lock up like its in park and the weird thing is that i dont have neutral. Do you think it's a solenoid? or some how the the parking pawl getting engaged randomly? The only way i have neutral is with the car on and by going through all the gears. Any help it's appreciated.
hi, any fault codes? does it do it all time, or when hot cold? can you select all gears and will it shift through all gears? has any work been done on it recently? have you had pan off? if you have a look at operation chart you will see there is a shift solenoid applied in both Park and Neutral. sorry but I need more info.....you need to make sure isn`t a mechanical problem like a loosened valve body bolt or worn, bent or broken external cable or linkage too or in t-bar. best do all checks you can before you pull anything off or apart, then you might need to remove trans pan and even valve body to do an air pressure test. have a repair manual for reference will help, good luck cheers
Hello Sir, I decided to check the solenoid without removing the tranny pan and I need to get to the TCM and it's not where the other videos is indicating. It a 2007 2.0 Mazda 3 and now I'm wondering if they have put it in a different place or put the TCM circuitry into the ECM as one unit. The video I've watched shows the TCM under the motor mount plate and it's not there. Any idea Sir:?
Hi.. my son has a 2003 Ford focus.. the shifting problem comes a goes.. sometimes when you start the car it'll go into gear just fine but then you turn it off and restart the car it won't work in any gear "forward or reverse".. Does this sound like a solenoid problem?
hi, any fault codes? have you had transmission serviced? it could be blocked filter....hard to know without road testing and more information, please read comments and replies below it may help and more info in our vids in our Ford Playlist ua-cam.com/users/YepThatsItplaylists cheers
hi, if 2nd & 4th usually is the band. either is out of adjustment ( you can replace the strut bolt with adjustable bolt ) or the case has worn out where the servo piston rod passes through case. check out my other 4f27e vids in playlists. ua-cam.com/play/PLQLkuOdKuFouX67h2Mj0wetEaMSyXnRz_.html cheers
@YepThatsIt i got a focus tdci 1.6 2007, happend a few times now that it will not engage in any gear, (D and R are like neutral) it throws a P0741 when this happend, resetting PCM/TCM fixes it for a while, any idea if this could be a solenoid issue? im thinking solenoid or a bad connection, car only has 113.000 km on it, the previous owner was told to get a new gearbox if the problem keep comming back, but they never checked the gearbox, all they did was read the code and reset TCM. for the price he paid i dont think they even tried a oil/filter change, said he paid $35 or so.
Hi, good idea to check the basics first. please read through comments on my vids for these trans, often your answer will be found in there - check out my playlists on my channel. let me know if you still need answers. cheers
Pls i have this 2002 ford focus, anytime u drive normal it shift well but the moment the engine heat up, u try to speed then the transmission doesn't change u will hear the loud noise wen slam the throttle but the doesn't pull What could be the cause pls help
hi, check all the basics first. it could be internal pressure leak when warms up fluid thins out,so wherever the leak is the thinner fluid can pass through quicker and easier. can also be a solenoid issue - as they warm up, the amperage has to come down. hope that makes sense cheers
How do I know the solenoids differently.. all three big solenoids look the same.. don’t know wich is C D or e.. or dose it matter wich is wich since the look the same?? Thanks for the video.
hi, ford and mazda have very similar trans, however they label/name solenoids differently ( many get caught ) i believe i may have vid showing/explaining that. cheers
hi, back years ago we removed the rotor from an electric motor and would pass the solenoids within a tube through the stator windings a few times. now you can buy demagnetizers online. flush with solvent and pressure. keep in mind a leaking solenoid wont give a fault code. also you need to warm solenoids up to test properly as often they fail above room temp. as temp goes up, resistance goes up and amperage comes down. cheers
hi, the green ones are on/off solenoids and you can test that way ( we test for leaking and 8.5v ) the other ones are tested by varying amps. make sure you warm them up as well when testing, often they ok at room temp and fail when they warm up. cheers
Hi, hard to tell without looking at it...but you may need to remove valve body and servo piston that applies your band. these have common problem where the bore in case that servo piston runs through wear out. you would need a ream and bush kit to fix it. hope that helps cheers
YepThatsIt thank you so much i will try to change shift solenoid....you have done really good job helping people ...is there any way to contact you i am having this proplem and dealers are telling to get transmission rebuilt or change it
Hi, I get faultcodePO0986 and the car wil not shift to fourth gear. I also get engine fault when this happens and the engine rev up. I have checked all cabling between the transaxle case connector and the pcm. Also checked the internal cabling in the gearbox. All the pwm valves is clicking when i power them. I am not sure how to test the ssa and ssb valve. This is a Ford fokus 1.6 liter with a 8s4p-7000-ba transmisjon. The car have ben running 80000km. Do you have Andy idea what the reason for this problem can be?
hi, do you have any fault codes? just be aware that ford and madza versions of same trans name their solenoids differently. check out our other vids for 4f27e. cheers
@@YepThatsIt i have AT light no engine light goes into limp mode its definitely a pressure issue with the TC neutral in all gear and reverse , put it in Manual mode and some times the gear info will go out when limp mode comes on pretty sure i have this trans FN4A-EL 2.0 4 speed auto Mazda 3 2008
@@YepThatsIt P0720,, been talking to another fella with the same car same issue ,, he pulled the trans replaced it and got the same result,, got a brand new (PCM) same result but with added codes ,, put the original (PCM) back in lost the added codes but same result ,, pulled the trans out and apart and nothing looked wore more then it should be ,, he then took off the pan , and found that the filter had 2 small holes in it ,, dropped the valve body pulled it apart and there was the bits and pieces in the main pressure valve Port and the (TCC) solenoid E stopping it from opening and closing as it should ,, so my next step is to check the harness for the (OSS) and drop the pan and hope to find something similar a bad (TCC) solenoid E or blocked port/valve (Hopefully this is my issue , and hopefully posting this here helps someone in the future with the same issue.)
@@highlandsoutdoors2041 Hi from the future , was thinking it may be the PCV too . Checked the solenoids ABCD with scan tool actuation , seems fine but can not hear the Solenoid E ..I think im headed back in to Visit the P V port as the trans was quite Dirty , Really appreiciate the Time and Efforts From YepThatsit and Your self ..:)
@@Kaylas_Customs Mine ended up being bad clutches in the trans the padding separated from the disks Never seen anything like it they were all like new but the glue/adhesive let go
Hi wonderd if you could help my ford focus is a 2006 but only done 23000 kilmiters but when i put it in reverse it works then drops out and keeps doing it when i am in drive i can travel a couple of kilomiters then it stops working i have to turn ignition of then restart it and it will go again is it problem with valves
hi, start with basic checks first, fluid level, electrical connections, battery fully charged and holding power etc....but to me sounds like a blocked filter, if it is ok shortly after you turn it off, the fluid drains back through filter from torque converter cleaning or flushing it a little. unfortunately if that is the case and if filter is blocked that much, it means more major issues creating that much debris and bigger repairs needed. hope that helps cheers
@@YepThatsIt thanks for that i will get to it i also noticed if i put it in manuel mode it i only get first and second on dash is this corect or should it show more
@@YepThatsIt hi have droped the sump and it is sludge and filings thats the dif bearings the filter was blocked the guy i purchased it of got water in the box he draind the box the same day but the dif must have had water in still so thats why the bearings are a bit noisey i am taking box out and get rebuild on it as its only done 23000 kil thank you so mutch for your help
hi, usually when water or coolant gets in your transmission, only one complete fluid change is not enough....see ua-cam.com/video/1paq5RbiTNQ/v-deo.html cheers
Hey bro I think I’m having the same issues with mine. 2005 sp23 and I got transmission codes dealing with shift solenoid c,d,e. If it’s just those three, what about the tcm ?
hi, usually its contaminated solenoids from lack of regular trans filter servicing and cleaning magnet in trans pan is very critical ( even add additional magnets helps ). start at basics and work from there. cheers
Hi,shifting from 1 to 2 gear is not smooth and it feels when on high gear and at about 20km/h i hear knocking like in manual of you on high gear but your speed is slow.what causes it?is it selenoid?
Awesome ! its taken ages of searching to find someone who knows what their talking about! I have a question, How important is the correct type of fluid? I recently did a service on my high millage Mazda Familia with the FN4AEl transmission ( no previous problem) and used Donax II oil? Since then I've had erratic shift and lockup. I'm guessing I've disturbed crap and its found its way into the valves. I'm going to try your cleaning tips and maybe a different oil?? Many thanks
hi, sorry not familiar with the Shell Donax oils. if on their website they say is compatible with your vehicle, then should be ok. in my experience and findings regarding transmission seals...there will be one seal ( usually of a different colour) placed strategically in the transmission somewhere that will not be compatible with mineral transmission fluids. this will cause the seal to expand and go out of shape and then cause pressure loss and shift problems in transmission. the different transmission fluids can also have varying viscosity properties which can also affect the "clamping" or gripping strength of clutches and bands applied. it is not important to use the precise manufacturers preferred transmission oils but it is important to use the recommended fluid from whichever reputable brand you prefer. if your vehicle is still inside warranty period, vehicle manufacturers will try to weasel their way out of warranties if you used other brands..but legally if you used compatible oils that are recommended by your chosen reputable brand, then they can`t say it was wrong or incompatible or didn`t mix properly with their oil. cheers
where are the ohms measured? that the coils are connected to the harnesses to check them? or how to know if the coil works?.... because I have a focus, its does not come back, its does not 3 and 4
hi, you might start with a obd2 scanner and see if you have any fault codes. just make sure you have checked all the basics as well like fluid level and charged and strong battery. cheers
wanted to see if you could help me?? got a used 2004 mazda rx8 and developed a slow leak over several weeks now. but before i could get to changing the fluid and dropping the pan to replace "gasket" when cold the car would run find but when i stopped at a red light or stop sign, it would not move anymore. i had to push off the road and waited for like 30 minutes but when started up again would drive for 10-15 minutes until i stopped again and same thing: would not move while in drive. i suspected the fluid was very low from leaking and needed to do a complete change of fluid while i was at it. but do you think the solenoids will be ok or could i have damaged them permenantly by keep cutting off and driving until i couldn't and then shut off and drive again?? i just tried to make it back home, about a 10 mile trip waiting about 15 minutes inbetween where the car would not move while in drive? the fluid was very nasty and didn't look like its been done its whole entire life?? 124,050 miles.... thanks for any help!! haven't put it back together yet, thought i would wait and see if it would be ok to replace fluid and drive it like it is?? thanks!
hi, sounds like blocked filter and reverse flushes itself from drain back fluid out of torque converter when you turn off vehicle, then drives until it blocks up again. cheers
thanks!! changed the fluid and filter and running like its never ran before!! I just have a very very slow leak from the shift solenoid connector, it looks very sweaty/wet? will address that in a couple months, im sure I have to remove the fluid to access that "seal". I will subscribe!! you were a great help! thanks again!
Just saw your video. Excellent by the way. Just curious if these ohm checks you did were with the battery disconnected or does the battery have to be connected?
hi, the green plug solenoids are on/off and can be tested using voltage and also check for pressure leaking, the other ones are tested by varying amperage. we like to test at 10.5v as this is what a car battery is usually flat at. cheers
We have a 2003 focus with this tranny.. shifts fine when accelerating, all the way thru each gear into the overdrive 4th.. what has developed is the kickdown from 3rd into 2nd.. this hesitates and is harsh or clunky when it engages.. notice it when going up mountain inclines and tranny is dropping out of 3rd down to 2nd all the time.. not smooth.. from the charts you showed, do you think it may be the shift E solenoid since its related to 2nd gear? or could it be a different one? any help appreciated bro, thanks!
hi, always best to check basics first and do the easiest/cheapest remedies first. if you have fault codes it will be an electrical issue, just keep in mind that a leaking solenoid wont give you a fault code. you can get adjustable anchor bolts for these so you can adjust the band ( see my other vids ) and also you can air pressure test the apply ports once valve body has been removed. also check the servo piton rod hasnt broken or worn the bore out in the case. beer link is in description, just send as a gift or paypal will take a fee. cheers
Hi. Purchased recently used Ford grand c max 2013 automatic transmission 84k miles. Found error P0700 P0796. With manual drive car drives fine. But with automatic drive over 60/70miles speed car shows warning “transmission malfunction service now”. Changed new fluid and filter. Driven 30 miles on motorway and no problem with manual drive. but with automatic drive the warning signs comes when car speed is more then 50 miles and I Rev more. Off engine and restart again car behave again normal. Any advice from you. UK
hi, sorry for delay in reply, we just got back last monday. contaminated solenoids that give ecu readings outside set parameters will give you the fault codes and a leaking solenoid will also give you shift issues. cheers
@@YepThatsIt Thanks for reply. Found the problem only when from 5th gear i press the paddle and gear go down on forth to pick power then shows warning light. shifting manually not seem any issue.. Does it will cause issue if i keep driving manually? Thanks
hi, the green termial solenoids are on/of can be tested with voltage and for leaking, the other solenoids are tested by varying amperage and for flow. cheers
have you checked solenoids? just be aware that mazda and ford name the solenoids differently if you search information online. on mazda Solenoid D is only on in D-4th and Manual-2nd, so I`d start to look there. the band is for 2nd and 4th also....if not servo seals, then I would check the bore where servo pin travels as it is common for these to wear out the case in there. cheers
Thank you for such a video pal ! It really helped. I am a mechanical engineer outside the US. I have a Mazda CX 9 with a code p0973 SSA control circuit low, the car is only at gear 3 . How do I fix this problem? Your reply would be appreciated , thank you
hi, when computer senses an electrical fault outside its programmed parameters, it will put vehicle into limp mode. you need to check all your solenoids and sensors. cheers
Wouldn't it be faster and more valuable just to replace those solenoids with new ones and get the job done correctly? Seems like a waste of time cleaning each one then putting a used set back in. Time is money. Right?
hi, the debris gets magnetized and gets stuck in the solenoid and sensors. once a solenoid is deenergized it isnt magnetic, but the debris stays magnetized. a leaking solenoid wont generally give a fault code. whether you replace or flush will depend on your testing or choice. cheers
Great video! I have a 2011 ford focus, 43,000 km. here in Argentina and I was on a long trip , I reached over 170 km/h on road and some kms after the 4th gear started to "jump" kind of connecting and disconnecting, my focus like a wild crazy horse you can imagine what I mean, well I scanned it and got obd2 p0979 code, I searched about it and it's shift solenoid "c" issue . I will try , as you recommend, checking for connector first, and resistance, Have you ever deal with this particular problem? thank you very much for your time!
hi, depending on your scan tool, solenoid C can be different for ford-mazda ( see sonnax.com link ) also from what you describe check the Torque converter Solenoid TCC. cheers www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/377-4f27e-fn4a-el-solenoid-identification
Hi, that could also be a number of other things as well. The 2-4 band not applying or releasing. These have a bad design where the servo piston wears out the case. good news is it can be fixed with reaming and adding a bush. Solenoids are electro magnets, they will attract fine metallic debris that is created from normal wear and tear....so the cleaner ( and cooler ) you keep a transmission, the longer it will last. cheers
You def sound like you know what you're doing! My sister has 2012 Nissan Altima with CVT trans. She got a P0746 code (pressure control solenoid A stuck off) I heard its either a dead solenoid or contaminated solenoid. She doesnt have much money right now, and was wanting to know if i were to replace the solenoids on thr valve body, do you think it will fix this code? Ive heard that most people swap the whole valve body, but the funds just arent there... Any help is appreciated!
hi, if its a faulty solenoid and only that specific solenoid, then it should at least improve it. while you can always check/test/flush as many of the other solenoids as you can as often they will be contaminated or leaking as well. cheers
@@YepThatsIt Yes, pulled valve body. Tested all the solenoids. All functioned normally without leaks. Cleaned and reinstalled with nee fluid/filters. Car ran great, then went to a new code. P1778 stepper motor. After some research im thinking one or both drive pulleys are damaged and not changing the ratio. Car will drive fine up to 45mph, then it wont change ratio, so rpms hit 4k and it sets stepper motor code.
@@YepThatsIt No i did not check them warmed up... My mistake! I think its more than just a solenoid issue though. The "solenoid code" has not returned since i remove and clean the entire valve body. I removed all valves individually and cleaned well. I will jave to pull the case apart and check the condition of pulleys. Thanks
I have a 2008 focus ses 4speed auto trans. I replaced a,b and still shifts from first to third. Then pops in and out of gear. It was reading the solenoid a,b were stuck so I replaced them and no difference. What are your thoughts?
hi, start with all basics checks first ( see my previous replies to questions ) and you will need to check wiring from ecm to the solenoid if no power to it and you have replaced them. cheers
Mate you're an absolute champion
I had a problem with shift solenoid c and the hold light was flashing transmission takes off in third gear, im a motor mechanic with basic transmission knowledge i didn't know how to tackle this job until i watched your video you pretty much explained everything step by step and clear instructions,i ended up buying a set of 6 solenoids on ebay and replaced the lot surprisingly they wer cheap $50 for 6 the car drove beautifully with perfect shift pattern
Thank you for sharing
hi, glad helped ! a few beers always appreciated. link is in description. thanks & cheers
This video is GOLD!
thanks & cheers
Hi I you are the most informative transmission technician I have watched. I have a Mazda 323 1.6. Revs very high and won't change gears, replaced all solenoids and speed sensors. Finally I replaced transmission and cleared codes There's little improvement if I press hold button but revs up to 3500 rpm before it shifts. No codes coming up.
FYI for anyone doing a Transmission Oil change 1999 - 2003 Protege and Protege 5 owners and Fords with same transmission. The proper transmission fluid type is Mazda M V or Mazda M 5 ! I see many people using the wrong transmission oil. Mazda's name for this transmission is FN4A-EL, Ford's name for this transmission is 4F27E, "On Mazda vehicles, this transmission uses Mazda M5 fluid (Mazda part number: 0000-77-112E-01), which is NOT Mercon V or Mercon LV according to Mazda Technical Service Bulletin 0500116. This fluid is made by Idemitsu Kosan (according to the label on the back of the Mazda bottle). Idemitsu sells the equivalent Type-M fluid in the aftermarket. The equivalent Ford fluid is FNR5 (Ford part number: XT-9-QMM5). Moreover, Mazda vehicles have "M V" written on the dipstick handle." Mazda type M5 ATF is not the same fluid as Ford Mercon V or Ford Mercon LV. Mazda type M5 ATF has a greater viscosity than Ford Mercon V and Ford Mercon LV in low temperatures. Mazda type M5 ATF has a greater anti-judder specification than Ford Mercon V and Ford Mercon LV.
in australia if an oil company says the fluid is compatible, then they are liable for issues, not sure in other countries though. thanks for that info cheers
Thanks! That was really concise and informative. I appreciate your video very much.
thanks & cheers
Just in case you don't know,,,
The valve body is color coded so you can't get the wires in the wrong spot,,if you look on the valve body it will have a letter corresponding to the color of the wire connector.
Connector colors match letter codes cast into the solenoid body
B= black
N= neutral
G=green
thanks & cheers
Hope to dig into it this week.
Love the shop built tools ....
thanks & cheers
Thank you for your video. I recently changed a couple of A and B solenoids but seems that I will need to change the C one because when put into D the car will jolt. According to the chart, it seems that the A and C are involved in this. Also the code P0705 is showing.
hi, just make sure you have the right solenoid id. Ford label them differently to Mazda. cheers
Thanks, I will take notice of this.
That is the best information I have seen thank you
thanks & cheers
Well done great video.
thanks & cheers
Great videos and advice thanks. I have low torque in gears 3 and 4 particularly 3. Could it be solenoid B that is common to both.
hi, I`d need more info. any codes? maybe have a look at the pwm solenoids, they operate from varying amps, pulse width modulated solenoids regulate the fluid from the solenoids to the clutches, whereas the shift solenoids are just on/off. cheers
@@YepThatsIt fnr5 2007 ford fusion. Code p0757 shift solenoid b stuck open. Car goes into drive have to ease off accelerator for it to change to second. I change the solenoid pack fluid car still does the same thing and code is back after eracing it.
@@Born2be76 if stuck open, means contaminated. erasing codes without repair doesn`t fix anything. cheers
@@YepThatsIt I installed a new solenoid pack same code.
I appreciate for all the useful info. given here and in other videos. I have a 2010 Mazda 3 BL 1.6 with the same auto tranny. It is 171 000 km. Tranny liquid was half-changed twice (40-80k) and completely flushed(120-160 k) twice. Filters replaced as well. Fluid level cold/warm is just perfect. When the engine is cold, shifting 1-2 sucks. You feel pushing forward. 2-3 very reluctant. When the engine is warm everything is ok but on the highway again very reluctant to speed up when shift down 4 to 3. No engine light no codes at all. Even the log has no problem. I am checking it with full version of Forscan Lite. Nowadays, I am thinking of changing the whole solenoid block. If I notice any difference, I will write again. Any idea, advise appreciated. Have a great day.
Addition: When the speed is 70 km/h , transmissions locking itself is very noticable.
hi, a mechanical fault or even a leaking solenoid won`t record a code.... always check the basics first...fluid level at correct temp, electrical connections, battery charged and strong...then you would take trans pan off and make sure filter isn`t blocked or fluid sludgy, these trans are known for flogging out pressure regulator bore in valve body ( see sonnax.com ), also end covers wear out...you can also get an adjustable band bolt instead of the set length type...check accumulator seals as well if you take valve body off and that servo rod bore in case isn't worn out or that the rod hasn't come away from the piston.... cheers
@@YepThatsIt you have a kind heart. Thank you for your time and sharing your priceless experiences with us.
Perfect information thanks!
Thanks & Cheers
Hi . I have code p0762 on my mazda 5 2008 . I just changed the solenoid still same problem .any one had same experience??
hi, hopefully you are aware that ford and mazda name the solenoids differently is the same transmission. cheers
Quick question. According to your chart if shift solenoid A and B, if either one of those are not working would you not have reverse? Also if apply 12 volt to the A&B solenoid shouldn't they click. Neither one of mine are clicking and one is reading 17 ohm and other reading 18 ohm. Thanks
hi, sometime the click is hard to hear. these are on/off solenoids so test for leaking. your ohms seem to be within specs but also depends on temperature. is yours in a ford or mazda ? as they name them differently...see www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/377-4f27e-solenoid-identification . hope that helps cheers
Question, if you have all your forward drive gears working and no reverse, do the solenoids have any relation to the transmission going into reverse?
hi, could do ? but i`d need more info. both on/off solenoids are applied in rev. check all the basics first. sheesh do people even read other questions and comments ? see our other 4f27e vids ua-cam.com/play/PLQLkuOdKuFouX67h2Mj0wetEaMSyXnRz_.html cheers
Wishing he would've mentioned the power source for operating the solenoids. 12 volt car battery?
hi, we use a 240v to 0 - 30vdc bench power supply to test. you can also vary the amperage. cheers
12v is what you want. Some people use 9v batteries too.
Yeah thanks! Checked all 6, only got a response from 2. Surely the other 4 can't be bad....?
Ig I'll buy a set. Prices seem reasonable online.
Hi i have ford lynx 1999 and it doesnt immediately engage to drive(it takes about a minute or two before it jerks and engages to drive) but would always shift immediately to reverse... does it seem to have solenoid issues too?
hi, any fault codes? always check the basics first...fluid level at correct temp, electrical connections, battery charged and strong...then you would take trans pants off and make sure filter isn`t blocked or fluid sludgy, these trans are known for flogging out pressure regulator bore in valve body ( see sonnax.com ), also end covers wear out...you can also get an adjustable band bolt instead of the set length type...check accumulator seals as well if you take valve body off and that servo rod bore in case isn't worn out or that the rod hasn't come away from the piston...let me know how you go. cheers
Hi Ainess, Same problem with my 2000 Lynx here in Philippines, did you resolve the issue.
Good afternoon. I ask you to give advice. Should I change the EPC linear pressure solenoid - to a new one? Car mileage 180 thousand kilometers. There are no problems with the gearbox. Should I change this solenoid - for prevention? I understand that the solenoid works constantly with high frequency. What do you say? Thank.
hi, the choice is yours. if you are concerned I would flush it and also add extra magnets to stop fine metal from being attracted to the solenoids. cheers
@@YepThatsIt I understood. Thank.
I have a mazda protege5 that the o/d off blinks on dash. Would this solve my problem? When its cold hesitates to move forward but when is on tempeture runs fine
hi, most fault codes are for electrical issues. check all the basics first including strong and charged battery, good earth connections, good electrical connections as well as the obvious. cheers
Did you fix it? Having the same problem now
Hello and thanks for this video. I have a question I'm trying to identify solenoid E on my nephews 2004 Mazda 3 sport 4 speed with the 4F27E 4 speed transmission. I have a p0771 code with slipping gears. I have done a lot of research online and can't seem to conclusively pin point which solenoid is e. I know its one of 3 identical solenoids held in with the bracket, opposite solenoids a and b. One site says its the one closest to the filter housing. Another says it the one in the middle. Please help. Thanks Robin
hi, I`m pretty sure I explained that mazda and ford give the solenoids different id in video...
www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/377-4f27e-fn4a-el-solenoid-identification
on mazdas the E is Torque Converter Clutch TCC Solenoid
Thank you very much. That's the diagram I found after a I emailed you. :)
Hello..i have aazda 6 2003 and has no reverse gear and sometimes the AT light is on
hi, always best to check basics first and do the easiest/cheapest remedies first. if you have fault codes it will be an electrical issue, just keep in mind that a leaking solenoid wont give you a fault code. you can get adjustable anchor bolts for these so you can adjust the band ( see my other vids ) and also you can air pressure test the apply ports once valve body has been removed. also check the servo piton rod hasnt broken or worn the bore out in the case. beer link is in description, just send as a gift or paypal will take a fee. cheers
Hi. In the beginning of this video you mentioned there was something with shift a and b solenoids tend to break and that you would show how to fix. But I did not see you cover it I. The video. 2007 ford fusion 2.3l 65000 miles. ObdII reads shift solenoid stuck on. I have no 3rd or 4th whatsoever. I've run 12v to it it clicks . Measured resistance an it's good. Checked all connections. Please help!!
Also I have changed shift solenoid b. And tried relearning the computer. It throws same shit solenoid stuck on
hi, sorry I did say that...I will get around to it when I can. basically it will show the little earth plate inside the solenoid that connects one end of coil winding to the body of the solenoid. these plates are 99% of the time, the bit that breaks as it will flex continually through operation. we do a little mod that eliminates that problem when we recondition those solenoids ( the shift on/off solenoids ). you may find your answer in past comments on here, please have a look. cheers
hi, you need to contact the people that sold you the solenoid. cheers
I have. They swapped it out with another new one. Same exact thing. My old shit b solenoid works. Passed all resistance and ohm test. I'm in the process of flushing the value body now. Could there be a pressure issue in the value causing the soleniod to stay open?
check servo piston hasn`t broken or worn piston bore in case while valve body out, and air pressure test while vb out.
Great video! Is it possible either my torque converter or shift solenoid is gummed up and not working properly and yet tests fine with an ohm meter and makes the click noise when voltage applied? It is a year 91 mazda with A4LD trans.
Hi, what is problem? how many km`s on it?
How's it goin, it sat around for a few years here and there, it has 80,000 mi, reverse engages and drives perfect, but all of the drive gears wont engage unless I step on the gas real hard and it will kind of jerk and start a rolling about 10mph around the block a few times. It did get a bit low on fluid and started hesitating on engaging into gear and rough shift, but caught it pretty quick and filled it up and had a flush done (at this point I still had drive just a little rough). Drove perfect for a day and then starting having the problems i described first, tried pumping a bit out and used lucas slip fix and did not help. Next I was going to try solenoids and filter, new fluid, any insight you have would be appreciated!
Hi, start with the basics first, change filter and service etc.... you can also check solenoids but if it has been sitting for a few years I'd check all external electrical connections and spray some wd40 in those.... make sure battery is good and charged as well and see how that goes...if that all fails then will mean a more major repair might be needed....sorry hard to diagnose like this but hope helps...goodluck
I understand hard to diagnose without looking at it, thanks! I'll see what I can do!
Hello dear.
I have this trasmission on my mazda lantis and in morning start the 1 gear is like in nutral and i get p0730 code ,after few min i shut off the engine and start again and the gearbox is fine and work properly.
What do you think the problem?
hi, check all basics first then may be due for a filter service? as sensors and solenoids warm up, so does the electrical resistance. the fluid also thins out when it warms up. cheers
Thanks for info. I have a question though, can I use 12V to test all of the solenoids, or there is differences?
hi, the ones with green terminals are just on/off solenoids and you can test with voltage. the other ones operate by varying amperage. cheers
And how to test those that operates by various amps ?
Thanks for the great video. I have a mazda3 that will stop all of a sudden wen in drive and will lock up like its in park and the weird thing is that i dont have neutral. Do you think it's a solenoid? or some how the the parking pawl getting engaged randomly? The only way i have neutral is with the car on and by going through all the gears. Any help it's appreciated.
hi, any fault codes? does it do it all time, or when hot cold? can you select all gears and will it shift through all gears? has any work been done on it recently? have you had pan off? if you have a look at operation chart you will see there is a shift solenoid applied in both Park and Neutral. sorry but I need more info.....you need to make sure isn`t a mechanical problem like a loosened valve body bolt or worn, bent or broken external cable or linkage too or in t-bar. best do all checks you can before you pull anything off or apart, then you might need to remove trans pan and even valve body to do an air pressure test. have a repair manual for reference will help, good luck cheers
Hello Sir, I decided to check the solenoid without removing the tranny pan and I need to get to the TCM and it's not where the other videos is indicating. It a 2007 2.0 Mazda 3 and now I'm wondering if they have put it in a different place or put the TCM circuitry into the ECM as one unit. The video I've watched shows the TCM under the motor mount plate and it's not there. Any idea Sir:?
hi, google usually helps locate it cheers
Hi.. my son has a 2003 Ford focus.. the shifting problem comes a goes.. sometimes when you start the car it'll go into gear just fine but then you turn it off and restart the car it won't work in any gear "forward or reverse".. Does this sound like a solenoid problem?
hi, any fault codes? have you had transmission serviced? it could be blocked filter....hard to know without road testing and more information, please read comments and replies below it may help and more info in our vids in our Ford Playlist ua-cam.com/users/YepThatsItplaylists cheers
Hi, I just replace all selenoids and still second and four gear does not want to shift
Is the transmission Discs worn? ( rebuilt all trans)
hi, if 2nd & 4th usually is the band. either is out of adjustment ( you can replace the strut bolt with adjustable bolt ) or the case has worn out where the servo piston rod passes through case. check out my other 4f27e vids in playlists. ua-cam.com/play/PLQLkuOdKuFouX67h2Mj0wetEaMSyXnRz_.html cheers
Can we just use a junk wire to the battery to operate the Selenoid while we clean them thank you
hi, linear or pwm solenoids are operated by varying/ramping amps. cheers
@YepThatsIt i got a focus tdci 1.6 2007, happend a few times now that it will not engage in any gear, (D and R are like neutral) it throws a P0741 when this happend, resetting PCM/TCM fixes it for a while, any idea if this could be a solenoid issue? im thinking solenoid or a bad connection, car only has 113.000 km on it, the previous owner was told to get a new gearbox if the problem keep comming back, but they never checked the gearbox, all they did was read the code and reset TCM. for the price he paid i dont think they even tried a oil/filter change, said he paid $35 or so.
Hi, good idea to check the basics first. please read through comments on my vids for these trans, often your answer will be found in there - check out my playlists on my channel. let me know if you still need answers. cheers
Pls i have this 2002 ford focus, anytime u drive normal it shift well but the moment the engine heat up, u try to speed then the transmission doesn't change u will hear the loud noise wen slam the throttle but the doesn't pull
What could be the cause pls help
hi, check all the basics first. it could be internal pressure leak when warms up fluid thins out,so wherever the leak is the thinner fluid can pass through quicker and easier. can also be a solenoid issue - as they warm up, the amperage has to come down. hope that makes sense cheers
How do I know the solenoids differently.. all three big solenoids look the same.. don’t know wich is C D or e.. or dose it matter wich is wich since the look the same??
Thanks for the video.
hi, ford and mazda have very similar trans, however they label/name solenoids differently ( many get caught ) i believe i may have vid showing/explaining that. cheers
Ok do you have the link for that particular video please?
How fo demagnetize? Is it a tool u buy ? Or make? Also could you b more specific on how u flush them put
hi, back years ago we removed the rotor from an electric motor and would pass the solenoids within a tube through the stator windings a few times. now you can buy demagnetizers online. flush with solvent and pressure. keep in mind a leaking solenoid wont give a fault code. also you need to warm solenoids up to test properly as often they fail above room temp. as temp goes up, resistance goes up and amperage comes down. cheers
hey buddy you dont happen to know if those green terminal solenoids will click with 12 volts?
hi, the green ones are on/off solenoids and you can test that way ( we test for leaking and 8.5v ) the other ones are tested by varying amps. make sure you warm them up as well when testing, often they ok at room temp and fail when they warm up. cheers
Excellent, thank you so much
I change the 2-4 band n the two sensor with the green cap n still do the same thin goes to 1 skip 2 go to 3 n slip on 4
Hi, hard to tell without looking at it...but you may need to remove valve body and servo piston that applies your band. these have common problem where the bore in case that servo piston runs through wear out. you would need a ream and bush kit to fix it. hope that helps cheers
Thanks yea i was going to try that thanks alot my friend
Hello there i have mazda 6 2oo8 and have exact same problem plz let me know how to fix it showig po757
Hi, for code P0757 test shift solenoids....the ones with green plugs....I'd replace both if not up to specs. cheers
YepThatsIt thank you so much i will try to change shift solenoid....you have done really good job helping people ...is there any way to contact you i am having this proplem and dealers are telling to get transmission rebuilt or change it
Hi, I get faultcodePO0986 and the car wil not shift to fourth gear. I also get engine fault when this happens and the engine rev up. I have checked all cabling between the transaxle case connector and the pcm. Also checked the internal cabling in the gearbox. All the pwm valves is clicking when i power them. I am not sure how to test the ssa and ssb valve. This is a Ford fokus 1.6 liter with a 8s4p-7000-ba transmisjon. The car have ben running 80000km. Do you have Andy idea what the reason for this problem can be?
hi, for technical questions please contact us via our facebook link in description and don`t forget to bring some beers. cheers
Solenoids pop out after 8mm bolts are removed that hold them in .
no worries
hey if that Pressure control solenoid fails will it stop the car from going into gear and replicate neutral in all gear ?
hi, do you have any fault codes? just be aware that ford and madza versions of same trans name their solenoids differently. check out our other vids for 4f27e. cheers
@@YepThatsIt i have AT light no engine light goes into limp mode its definitely a pressure issue with the TC neutral in all gear and reverse , put it in Manual mode and some times the gear info will go out when limp mode comes on pretty sure i have this trans FN4A-EL 2.0 4 speed auto Mazda 3 2008
@@YepThatsIt P0720,, been talking to another fella with the same car same issue ,, he pulled the trans replaced it and got the same result,, got a brand new (PCM) same result but with added codes ,, put the original (PCM) back in lost the added codes but same result ,, pulled the trans out and apart and nothing looked wore more then it should be ,, he then took off the pan , and found that the filter had 2 small holes in it ,, dropped the valve body pulled it apart and there was the bits and pieces in the main pressure valve Port and the (TCC) solenoid E stopping it from opening and closing as it should ,, so my next step is to check the harness for the (OSS) and drop the pan and hope to find something similar a bad (TCC) solenoid E or blocked port/valve
(Hopefully this is my issue , and hopefully posting this here helps someone in the future with the same issue.)
@@highlandsoutdoors2041 Hi from the future , was thinking it may be the PCV too . Checked the solenoids ABCD with scan tool actuation , seems fine but can not hear the Solenoid E ..I think im headed back in to Visit the P V port as the trans was quite Dirty , Really appreiciate the Time and Efforts From YepThatsit and Your self ..:)
@@Kaylas_Customs Mine ended up being bad clutches in the trans the padding separated from the disks Never seen anything like it they were all like new but the glue/adhesive let go
Hi wonderd if you could help my ford focus is a 2006 but only done 23000 kilmiters but when i put it in reverse it works then drops out and keeps doing it when i am in drive i can travel a couple of kilomiters then it stops working i have to turn ignition of then restart it and it will go again is it problem with valves
hi, start with basic checks first, fluid level, electrical connections, battery fully charged and holding power etc....but to me sounds like a blocked filter, if it is ok shortly after you turn it off, the fluid drains back through filter from torque converter cleaning or flushing it a little. unfortunately if that is the case and if filter is blocked that much, it means more major issues creating that much debris and bigger repairs needed. hope that helps cheers
@@YepThatsIt thanks for that i will get to it i also noticed if i put it in manuel mode it i only get first and second on dash is this corect or should it show more
@@YepThatsIt hi have droped the sump and it is sludge and filings thats the dif bearings the filter was blocked the guy i purchased it of got water in the box he draind the box the same day but the dif must have had water in still so thats why the bearings are a bit noisey i am taking box out and get rebuild on it as its only done 23000 kil thank you so mutch for your help
hi, usually when water or coolant gets in your transmission, only one complete fluid change is not enough....see ua-cam.com/video/1paq5RbiTNQ/v-deo.html cheers
Great content. God Bless
thanks & cheers
Hey bro I think I’m having the same issues with mine. 2005 sp23 and I got transmission codes dealing with shift solenoid c,d,e. If it’s just those three, what about the tcm ?
hi, usually its contaminated solenoids from lack of regular trans filter servicing and cleaning magnet in trans pan is very critical ( even add additional magnets helps ). start at basics and work from there. cheers
Its helpful thank you but could be more better if a steady camera is in place so as to see clearly. Thanks for sharing...
hi, very true ! sometimes time gets in the way and I often see my mistakes or forget to include extra information. thanks for your input. cheers
How to flush without air the solenoid
Hi, probably easiest to test with air, most workshops have compressor. ;-)
Hi, check out our other video ua-cam.com/video/gddKFs1ALUU/v-deo.html thanks
Man, how were you able to find all this information
hi, mostly taught by my old man combined with years of experience, with a dash of useful information. cheers
Hi,shifting from 1 to 2 gear is not smooth and it feels when on high gear and at about 20km/h i hear knocking like in manual of you on high gear but your speed is slow.what causes it?is it selenoid?
hi, sounds like may be a mechanical issue. cheers
@@YepThatsIt if i give more gas knocking is gone,just like in manual in stop position but gear is on 3...if its selenoid which one would that be?
Awesome ! its taken ages of searching to find someone who knows what their talking about! I have a question, How important is the correct type of fluid? I recently did a service on my high millage Mazda Familia with the FN4AEl transmission ( no previous problem) and used Donax II oil? Since then I've had erratic shift and lockup. I'm guessing I've disturbed crap and its found its way into the valves. I'm going to try your cleaning tips and maybe a different oil?? Many thanks
hi, sorry not familiar with the Shell Donax oils. if on their website they say is compatible with your vehicle, then should be ok. in my experience and findings regarding transmission seals...there will be one seal ( usually of a different colour) placed strategically in the transmission somewhere that will not be compatible with mineral transmission fluids. this will cause the seal to expand and go out of shape and then cause pressure loss and shift problems in transmission. the different transmission fluids can also have varying viscosity properties which can also affect the "clamping" or gripping strength of clutches and bands applied. it is not important to use the precise manufacturers preferred transmission oils but it is important to use the recommended fluid from whichever reputable brand you prefer. if your vehicle is still inside warranty period, vehicle manufacturers will try to weasel their way out of warranties if you used other brands..but legally if you used compatible oils that are recommended by your chosen reputable brand, then they can`t say it was wrong or incompatible or didn`t mix properly with their oil. cheers
@@YepThatsIt Many thanks, I'll do some homework on the oil. cheers
where are the ohms measured? that the coils are connected to the harnesses to check them? or how to know if the coil works?.... because I have a focus, its does not come back, its does not 3 and 4
hi, you might start with a obd2 scanner and see if you have any fault codes. just make sure you have checked all the basics as well like fluid level and charged and strong battery. cheers
YepThatsIt ... Thankyou
wanted to see if you could help me?? got a used 2004 mazda rx8 and developed a slow leak over several weeks now. but before i could get to changing the fluid and dropping the pan to replace "gasket" when cold the car would run find but when i stopped at a red light or stop sign, it would not move anymore. i had to push off the road and waited for like 30 minutes but when started up again would drive for 10-15 minutes until i stopped again and same thing: would not move while in drive. i suspected the fluid was very low from leaking and needed to do a complete change of fluid while i was at it. but do you think the solenoids will be ok or could i have damaged them permenantly by keep cutting off and driving until i couldn't and then shut off and drive again?? i just tried to make it back home, about a 10 mile trip waiting about 15 minutes inbetween where the car would not move while in drive? the fluid was very nasty and didn't look like its been done its whole entire life?? 124,050 miles.... thanks for any help!! haven't put it back together yet, thought i would wait and see if it would be ok to replace fluid and drive it like it is?? thanks!
hi, sounds like blocked filter and reverse flushes itself from drain back fluid out of torque converter when you turn off vehicle, then drives until it blocks up again. cheers
thanks!! changed the fluid and filter and running like its never ran before!! I just have a very very slow leak from the shift solenoid connector, it looks very sweaty/wet? will address that in a couple months, im sure I have to remove the fluid to access that "seal". I will subscribe!! you were a great help! thanks again!
hi, great to hear ! cheers buy me a beer !.
use the link here www.paypal.me/BATS189
Just saw your video. Excellent by the way. Just curious if these ohm checks you did were with the battery disconnected or does the battery have to be connected?
hi, the green plug solenoids are on/off and can be tested using voltage and also check for pressure leaking, the other ones are tested by varying amperage. we like to test at 10.5v as this is what a car battery is usually flat at. cheers
We have a 2003 focus with this tranny.. shifts fine when accelerating, all the way thru each gear into the overdrive 4th.. what has developed is the kickdown from 3rd into 2nd.. this hesitates and is harsh or clunky when it engages.. notice it when going up mountain inclines and tranny is dropping out of 3rd down to 2nd all the time.. not smooth.. from the charts you showed, do you think it may be the shift E solenoid since its related to 2nd gear? or could it be a different one? any help appreciated bro, thanks!
hi, always best to check basics first and do the easiest/cheapest remedies first. if you have fault codes it will be an electrical issue, just keep in mind that a leaking solenoid wont give you a fault code. you can get adjustable anchor bolts for these so you can adjust the band ( see my other vids ) and also you can air pressure test the apply ports once valve body has been removed. also check the servo piton rod hasnt broken or worn the bore out in the case. beer link is in description, just send as a gift or paypal will take a fee. cheers
How much is it if you make a flush tool for me ?
What did you use to demagnetize the parts ?
hi, contact me via ourfacebook link and mention which solenoid tester you need. small demagnetizers are available online. cheers
Can i put the solenoids from a ford focus to a mazda?
Hi, yes you can, just be aware that each manufacturer just has a different name and code for the same solenoid. cheers
YepThatsIt thank you so much! I will look at that
Hi. Purchased recently used Ford grand c max 2013 automatic transmission 84k miles. Found error P0700 P0796. With manual drive car drives fine. But with automatic drive over 60/70miles speed car shows warning “transmission malfunction service now”. Changed new fluid and filter. Driven 30 miles on motorway and no problem with manual drive. but with automatic drive the warning signs comes when car speed is more then 50 miles and I Rev more. Off engine and restart again car behave again normal. Any advice from you. UK
hi, sorry for delay in reply, we just got back last monday. contaminated solenoids that give ecu readings outside set parameters will give you the fault codes and a leaking solenoid will also give you shift issues. cheers
@@YepThatsIt Thanks for reply. Found the problem only when from 5th gear i press the paddle and gear go down on forth to pick power then shows warning light. shifting manually not seem any issue.. Does it will cause issue if i keep driving manually? Thanks
Did this service improve the shifting?
hi, if solenoid bench test and flush shows up ok, it will definitely improve the shifts....from memory this one came up well. cheers
The green terminal solenoids should click every time you apply the voltage correct if not that means it is bad yes?
hi, the green termial solenoids are on/of can be tested with voltage and for leaking, the other solenoids are tested by varying amperage and for flow. cheers
por que mi mazda 3 no le entra la 4 sequeda en la puira 3 i no nada mas
lo siento, no entiendo usar el traductor de google
YepThatsIt
because my mazda 3 does not enter the 4 dry in the puira 3 i not nothing more
have you checked solenoids? just be aware that mazda and ford name the solenoids differently if you search information online. on mazda Solenoid D is only on in D-4th and Manual-2nd, so I`d start to look there. the band is for 2nd and 4th also....if not servo seals, then I would check the bore where servo pin travels as it is common for these to wear out the case in there. cheers
Como estas tiene problemas la tapa de atras de tu Transmision cambiala
Desculpe me, eu não entendo
So a sensor D in a Mazda it’s actually the sensor A in a ford ??
hi, yeah mate just to make it tricky they name same thing differently... www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/377-4f27e-solenoid-identification . cheers
So I’m getting p0766 (shift sensor “D” in a Mazda 3
Should I replace the closest to the filter passenger side ???
Meant to say driver side
They called pwm sensors??
Thank you for such a video pal ! It really helped. I am a mechanical engineer outside the US. I have a Mazda CX 9 with a code p0973 SSA control circuit low, the car is only at gear 3 . How do I fix this problem? Your reply would be appreciated , thank you
hi, when computer senses an electrical fault outside its programmed parameters, it will put vehicle into limp mode. you need to check all your solenoids and sensors. cheers
Thank you!
Wouldn't it be faster and more valuable just to replace those solenoids with new ones and get the job done correctly? Seems like a waste of time cleaning each one then putting a used set back in. Time is money. Right?
hi, the debris gets magnetized and gets stuck in the solenoid and sensors. once a solenoid is deenergized it isnt magnetic, but the debris stays magnetized. a leaking solenoid wont generally give a fault code. whether you replace or flush will depend on your testing or choice. cheers
Did not show the Dirty Screens on each solenoid before cleaning.
hopefully you got enough info out of vid. cheers
Great video! I have a 2011 ford focus, 43,000 km. here in Argentina and I was on a long trip , I reached over 170 km/h on road and some kms after the 4th gear started to "jump" kind of connecting and disconnecting, my focus like a wild crazy horse you can imagine what I mean, well I scanned it and got obd2 p0979 code, I searched about it and it's shift solenoid "c" issue . I will try , as you recommend, checking for connector first, and resistance, Have you ever deal with this particular problem? thank you very much for your time!
hi, depending on your scan tool, solenoid C can be different for ford-mazda ( see sonnax.com link ) also from what you describe check the Torque converter Solenoid TCC. cheers www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/377-4f27e-fn4a-el-solenoid-identification
@@YepThatsIt thanks friend!
Did it got fix
Hi, of course it did ! If it didn`t there would be more added on video. cheers
My car is a mazda 3 04 it goes from 1 to 3 it skip 2 n it got the a.t light on
I hope that fix my problem because my car just got 108000 mile still not alot n it drive great just that problem
Hi, that could also be a number of other things as well. The 2-4 band not applying or releasing. These have a bad design where the servo piston wears out the case. good news is it can be fixed with reaming and adding a bush. Solenoids are electro magnets, they will attract fine metallic debris that is created from normal wear and tear....so the cleaner ( and cooler ) you keep a transmission, the longer it will last. cheers
Hi, worth a try. cheers
You def sound like you know what you're doing! My sister has 2012 Nissan Altima with CVT trans.
She got a P0746 code (pressure control solenoid A stuck off)
I heard its either a dead solenoid or contaminated solenoid.
She doesnt have much money right now, and was wanting to know if i were to replace the solenoids on thr valve body, do you think it will fix this code? Ive heard that most people swap the whole valve body, but the funds just arent there...
Any help is appreciated!
hi, if its a faulty solenoid and only that specific solenoid, then it should at least improve it. while you can always check/test/flush as many of the other solenoids as you can as often they will be contaminated or leaking as well. cheers
@@YepThatsIt
Yes, pulled valve body. Tested all the solenoids. All functioned normally without leaks. Cleaned and reinstalled with nee fluid/filters.
Car ran great, then went to a new code. P1778 stepper motor.
After some research im thinking one or both drive pulleys are damaged and not changing the ratio.
Car will drive fine up to 45mph, then it wont change ratio, so rpms hit 4k and it sets stepper motor code.
@@splash5974 hopefully you checked solenoids when warmed up as well . cheers
@@YepThatsIt
No i did not check them warmed up...
My mistake! I think its more than just a solenoid issue though. The "solenoid code" has not returned since i remove and clean the entire valve body. I removed all valves individually and cleaned well.
I will jave to pull the case apart and check the condition of pulleys.
Thanks
Great explanation of everything. Video was really shaky.
sorry for shaky cheers
M
I have a 2008 focus ses 4speed auto trans. I replaced a,b and still shifts from first to third. Then pops in and out of gear. It was reading the solenoid a,b were stuck so I replaced them and no difference. What are your thoughts?
hi, start with all basics checks first ( see my previous replies to questions ) and you will need to check wiring from ecm to the solenoid if no power to it and you have replaced them. cheers