Note to future users trying to open the t3pa - mine was glued (the bottom to the metal of the pedals). So when you unscrew the bottom screws, you still can't take off the bottom. I used a large flat screwdriver and then bend open te plastic so you can get in there with the screwdriver to force the glue open. I think if you force it purely by bending the plastic, it might break. It's red glue.
Thanks for the tutorial man. Assisted me in a full maintenance and reconditioning for many more hours of simracing. Thanks to the video, I finally found the center screw and fixed the potentiometer "not working" issue. Great job man.
Thanks man. I just used this tutorial and my pedal is working perfect again. Was quite an operation tho, being the first time i ever tried that. But great success 😀👌 (Also marked the white plastic thing so re-attaching it was a lot easier)
Thank you so much man! This fixed my pedals. The issue I had was that my pedals always seemed to be a little bit pressed even though I was not touching them. If i pressed them, it was like i was pressing them up and down constantly. This fixed everything!
I switched out the gas and clutch assemblies as a test because clutch would read 100 and gas would max at 90. After switching them I had the same problem. Eventually I noticed the problem was that the assembly was screwed down too tight and after slightly loosening the screws closest to the pedal, it freed up a little extra space that was keeping my gas from being pushed down all the way and now reads 100.
It should be possible to clean the pots by just spraying cleaner in to the small 'cutout' in the pots body and rotating a few times, without dismantling.....if you dismantle, you may as well replace the pot with new?
Thanks dude! This was very easy! Apparently my second lugnut that keeps the actuator piece together came loose re-tighten it and done! Anybody can fix this and why is it so freaking easy...There's not much engineering gone into this stuff I suppose... Thanks and take care!
Thank you so much. And hair dryer(?) Also work too. *I dont know how can i call it in english. We use hair dryer(?) When after wash your hair to dry hair.
Maybe thi will help you also....It is a calibration issue, i had the same problem. You need to unplug both - the usb and the power connector from the base - and leave it until you see the light on the transformer go out, thats really important. It costs me 3 hours, to solve this problem. It was not the potimeter. I was surprised, because I wanted to buy a new Potimeter at THRUSTMASTER. Thanks @ JULIAN R. Thank you so much, mate.
@UCOHESlUPHSidFKw4054e1oQ Plug out and plug in. The power connector has a blue light. When you plug out the power connector from your electricity it lasts a few seconds and the blue light goes out. This means a reset I guess. Connect again, and that's it. And actually it worked out👍🏼
Great that you have an inside view. I want to see if Is possible to configure the pedals into the gt style (with a custom base) and swapping the gas and clutch pedals/springs?
Hi my pedal at full depress only shows 80% of throttle and when it’s completely untouched it has random tiny spikes of throttle any idea what that is or if this would help?
mine was doing that, you have to open it up and remove the potentiometer open up the potentiometer and clean it with electrical maintenance spray and it will probably be good again
I'm going to try this. My brake pedal is constantly spiking. I'm not sitting with a 20% dead zone on f1 22 and still doesn't help. It also only brakes fully when it feels like. So I'm really hoping this does the trick
Hello! Please, can you tell me if it did work for you ? mine had the same problem, sometimes I can't break for more than 70% and sometimes it will brakes fully when it feels like, and now, the clutch and brake pedals dont work at all. Thank you!
Would you happen to know what the connector is called at 1:44? The one you pulled out. My Rj12 connector broke so it won't stay clipped to the wheel. I ordered a replacement cable but it didn't come with the mentioned connector, just the loose wires.
For my gas pedal, it didn't work at all. Would that be because of bad grease or the problem that you had? I have had my pedals for a little over a month.
Is incredible, these shit pedals cost more than 150 dollars. You can to make a much better pedals, 100% in metal, for less than 50 dollars. It is very easy, you don't have to be engineer for that, and all the pieces are very cheaper.
I had a problem with my clutch where it just didn’t register or work in any games. I tried this tutorial that he did step by step, unfortunately it didn’t work and fix my clutch pedal but instead now none of the pedals register for any games and every time I plug it into my wheel base it causes the wheel base to make alien like noises and go on and off. I used wd40 instead of the spray he used cuz it seemed similar enough. I’m now unsure on what to do and I don’t know how to fix or do I just buy a knew one. Also I have had these pedals since last Christmas and the clutch has never worked and only now did I choose to try and fix it but now it’s just all gone down the bin.
@@marko.321 how did you fix them mine aren't working either it seems like the clutch connection on the little circut board doesnt work because when i switch the connections between the gas and clutch the clutch works but the gas doesnt 🤬
Basically if dirt is on the contacts the pedal either doesn't work at all or doesn't fully depress, it also I suppose cause it to spike as you call it causing it to work not work
Yeah hold the left button next to the light and press either your brake pedal or accelerated pedal it switches the pedal around if I remember rightly il try myself when at home, happened to me before.
@@k.larsson1848 tried it, hold the black button on the left of the wheel if it stays red then that's normal if it's lit up green the pedals will be opposite way round . you know about the steering wheel sensitivity settings don't you as well ?
I tried this and my clutch pedal stopped working after I finished. Does anyone know how to fix it? I’ve tried recalibrating but it didn’t do anything. It’s not a big deal because I don’t use the clutch but I would still like it to function.
Did you put the cogs back in the right position, better taking lid off again and taking it out and try moving the cog with your fingers and see if it responds
@@CHUFFER251 no I only wanted to clean where dust collected, in the metal boxes. I didn’t touch anything too technical except for the wire connected to the backing.
@@joylessjulian217 right that's the problem inside the silver pot with the 2 wires on you sprise the case open and get some electrical contact cleaner, spray it on some kitchen roll and put it in between the contacts the circle thing and you see dirt onto the kitchen roll do it till no dirt, not technical just take the pot off i think its 1 nut easy to fix.
Heard about the Thrustmaster Support: They will send you all new potentiometers for 5 Euro each incl. repair manual. But it's really ridiculous You will find these fucking cheap potentiometers in all this pedals. And it's a big secret why they all use strange potis which are not available in electronic parts shops. I changed from Logitech to Thrustmaster. Same shit. But Fanatec...sorry I am not a millionaire. I only want to race and there is this fucking 50 cent piece of shit which avoids it 😠😂
I've used your method to clean the contactors twice since I've had my setup and it never let me down.
Thank you for putting up this helpful DIY.
Didn’t help me just made it worse
Note to future users trying to open the t3pa - mine was glued (the bottom to the metal of the pedals). So when you unscrew the bottom screws, you still can't take off the bottom. I used a large flat screwdriver and then bend open te plastic so you can get in there with the screwdriver to force the glue open. I think if you force it purely by bending the plastic, it might break. It's red glue.
Thanks for the tutorial man. Assisted me in a full maintenance and reconditioning for many more hours of simracing. Thanks to the video, I finally found the center screw and fixed the potentiometer "not working" issue. Great job man.
Thanks man for the tutorial 👍🏼
I fixed my t3pa pedals, i had the infamous flickering brake pedal issue now it moves buttery smooth.
Does the wife know your using her kitchen knives for home repair projects? Brave man.
Ha ha. She doesn't look on my UA-cam account. If she did I'd be posting this from the grave. Lol
Thanks man. I just used this tutorial and my pedal is working perfect again.
Was quite an operation tho, being the first time i ever tried that. But great success 😀👌
(Also marked the white plastic thing so re-attaching it was a lot easier)
Thank you so much man! This fixed my pedals. The issue I had was that my pedals always seemed to be a little bit pressed even though I was not touching them. If i pressed them, it was like i was pressing them up and down constantly. This fixed everything!
Yoo hello can you help me my clutch stop working after I swap springs
Thank you for this tutorial, it really helps me! My gas pedal broke after month of use but I manage to fix it with your help. Thanks C:
I switched out the gas and clutch assemblies as a test because clutch would read 100 and gas would max at 90. After switching them I had the same problem. Eventually I noticed the problem was that the assembly was screwed down too tight and after slightly loosening the screws closest to the pedal, it freed up a little extra space that was keeping my gas from being pushed down all the way and now reads 100.
It should be possible to clean the pots by just spraying cleaner in to the small 'cutout' in the pots body and rotating a few times, without dismantling.....if you dismantle, you may as well replace the pot with new?
Did just this without removing the potentiometer and it fixed my issue
Thanks man, I instantly got the pedals working smoothly again.
Thanks dude! This was very easy! Apparently my second lugnut that keeps the actuator piece together came loose re-tighten it and done!
Anybody can fix this and why is it so freaking easy...There's not much engineering gone into this stuff I suppose...
Thanks and take care!
Thank you Sir. Helped me big time, your instructions were really easy to follow.
Thank you for this... My pedals are working again.
Thank you so much. And hair dryer(?) Also work too.
*I dont know how can i call it in english. We use hair dryer(?) When after wash your hair to dry hair.
IT FIXED MY PROBLEM AS WELL!
THANK YOU SOOO MUCH MAN, YOU'RE A LEGEND!
I have cleaned with Contact Cleaner and now it is OK
Two words. THIS WORKS
it fixed my problem too ! Thank youuu
Hello can you help me my clutch doesn’t work after I swap the springs 😢
Maybe thi will help you also....It is a calibration issue, i had the same problem. You need to unplug both - the usb and the power connector from the base - and leave it until you see the light on the transformer go out, thats really important. It costs me 3 hours, to solve this problem. It was not the potimeter. I was surprised, because I wanted to buy a new Potimeter at THRUSTMASTER. Thanks @ JULIAN R. Thank you so much, mate.
@UCOHESlUPHSidFKw4054e1oQ Plug out and plug in. The power connector has a blue light. When you plug out the power connector from your electricity it lasts a few seconds and the blue light goes out. This means a reset I guess. Connect again, and that's it. And actually it worked out👍🏼
Using the size 10 spanner is damn tough
Great that you have an inside view. I want to see if Is possible to configure the pedals into the gt style (with a custom base) and swapping the gas and clutch pedals/springs?
Jimaki _37 yeah all you have to do is make a place to mount it GT style then change the mode on the t300 wheel
And flip the pedal plates
Hi my pedal at full depress only shows 80% of throttle and when it’s completely untouched it has random tiny spikes of throttle any idea what that is or if this would help?
mine was doing that, you have to open it up and remove the potentiometer open up the potentiometer and clean it with electrical maintenance spray and it will probably be good again
@@CHUFFER251 I just did it and so far seems back to normal thansk a lot mate
I'm going to try this. My brake pedal is constantly spiking. I'm not sitting with a 20% dead zone on f1 22 and still doesn't help. It also only brakes fully when it feels like. So I'm really hoping this does the trick
Hello! Please, can you tell me if it did work for you ? mine had the same problem, sometimes I can't break for more than 70% and sometimes it will brakes fully when it feels like, and now, the clutch and brake pedals dont work at all. Thank you!
@@Theyassinovic92 it actually did!!!! My pedals (fingers crossed) now work perfectly
Its quite disturbing that we pay so much for parts so cheap inside this pedals! Its typical STEM parts u can find in all robotic shop at about $1😢
You can buy a new potentiometer on trusthmaster website asking for that in support service for 5€
Thank you so much...your my hero!!
Would you happen to know what the connector is called at 1:44? The one you pulled out.
My Rj12 connector broke so it won't stay clipped to the wheel. I ordered a replacement cable but it didn't come with the mentioned connector, just the loose wires.
I think they are called a jst connector just have to check the pic of 1 and how many pins etc
@@CHUFFER251 Awesome. Just googled, I believe those are the ones. I appreciate it!
Anyone have a diagram explaining the wiring of the pots to the RJ connector?
I don't sorry
Can I use WD 40 ?
For my gas pedal, it didn't work at all. Would that be because of bad grease or the problem that you had?
I have had my pedals for a little over a month.
Heya what's exactly wrong with your pedals.
Paulaccylad I don’t know I returned them and I am deciding god I should get the same ones or go with a Load cell
thank you sir
Thanks man!! but do u know where to buy these b25k60 potentiometers..??
This place seems a good bet, this looks similar but you would have to file the shaft down flat to get cog to fit
Is incredible, these shit pedals cost more than 150 dollars. You can to make a much better pedals, 100% in metal, for less than 50 dollars. It is very easy, you don't have to be engineer for that, and all the pieces are very cheaper.
Mine stopped working a week after buying it
I cant get the radar wheel of, and now ive pulled the pin out. I have a t500. How do I fix this?
I don't know what you mean sorry ?
With the t500, the little white radar part doesnt come off, its glued on. But ive managed to sort of fix I hope.
yeup.. fixed it...
Not a dirt problem. Took pedals completely apart. Still issue with only 50% power at full throttle. Any suggestions?
Recalibrate in windows
@@fitchyyboi hey, how do you do that please?
@@szabolcstorok5856 connect wheel to pc hit windows button type controllers open controllers find the wheel click properties recalibrate
I had a problem with my clutch where it just didn’t register or work in any games. I tried this tutorial that he did step by step, unfortunately it didn’t work and fix my clutch pedal but instead now none of the pedals register for any games and every time I plug it into my wheel base it causes the wheel base to make alien like noises and go on and off. I used wd40 instead of the spray he used cuz it seemed similar enough. I’m now unsure on what to do and I don’t know how to fix or do I just buy a knew one. Also I have had these pedals since last Christmas and the clutch has never worked and only now did I choose to try and fix it but now it’s just all gone down the bin.
I think it's more of a software problem rather than a hardware problem. Did you check your Thrustmaster software? Did u calibrate ur pedals?
@@danyalfarkhan3289 I found the problem and fixed and now clutch works i made mistake my bad
@@marko.321 how did you fix them mine aren't working either it seems like the clutch connection on the little circut board doesnt work because when i switch the connections between the gas and clutch the clutch works but the gas doesnt 🤬
@@ghostsparta13 I main part that he cleans i didnt put it back the right way. Its this 4:47
The same thing happened to me and I’m still trying to fix it. I’ll give this a try.
I can’t pry up the little caps, can’t get under them?
Little caps ?
5:33
Use a Stanley knife blade to prise up
thank you dude it worked perfect
Does this fix the ‘spike’ problem??
Basically if dirt is on the contacts the pedal either doesn't work at all or doesn't fully depress, it also I suppose cause it to spike as you call it causing it to work not work
Paulaccylad thanks man!
My clutch pedal became the acceleration pedal for som reason? Anyone now how to fix it?
Yeah hold the left button next to the light and press either your brake pedal or accelerated pedal it switches the pedal around if I remember rightly il try myself when at home, happened to me before.
@@CHUFFER251 oh wow thanks a lot, gonna try when I get home😁
@@k.larsson1848 tried it, hold the black button on the left of the wheel if it stays red then that's normal if it's lit up green the pedals will be opposite way round . you know about the steering wheel sensitivity settings don't you as well ?
ua-cam.com/video/FXtSAzTDPlo/v-deo.html
I tried this and my clutch pedal stopped working after I finished. Does anyone know how to fix it? I’ve tried recalibrating but it didn’t do anything. It’s not a big deal because I don’t use the clutch but I would still like it to function.
Did you put the cogs back in the right position, better taking lid off again and taking it out and try moving the cog with your fingers and see if it responds
@@CHUFFER251 I didn’t take them out, I only took off the backing to clean the dust out of the pedals.
@@joylessjulian217 did you not take the cover off the potentiometer and clean it with contact cleaner as that's what needs cleaning
@@CHUFFER251 no I only wanted to clean where dust collected, in the metal boxes. I didn’t touch anything too technical except for the wire connected to the backing.
@@joylessjulian217 right that's the problem inside the silver pot with the 2 wires on you sprise the case open and get some electrical contact cleaner, spray it on some kitchen roll and put it in between the contacts the circle thing and you see dirt onto the kitchen roll do it till no dirt, not technical just take the pot off i think its 1 nut easy to fix.
Why is it always the accelerator pedal :(
Mine was the brake XP
Clutch
Heard about the Thrustmaster Support: They will send you all new potentiometers for 5 Euro each incl. repair manual.
But it's really ridiculous You will find these fucking cheap potentiometers in all this pedals. And it's a big secret why they all use strange potis which are not available in electronic parts shops.
I changed from Logitech to Thrustmaster. Same shit. But Fanatec...sorry I am not a millionaire. I only want to race and there is this fucking 50 cent piece of shit which avoids it 😠😂
Is this b25k60 ?
Don't know sorry
Non si capisce nulla , anche leggendo.