Intermittent no start, EPAS codes your electronic power assist steering, intermittent trans shifting issues, communication errors on the network, there's too many things to mention and it only takes half hour to do all these connections so it would be worth it to go ahead and get ahead of it now
Reset it and next time put the negative from the charger on any ground that is right next to the battery, there are at least a couple. That way the ECU sees amps going into the battery and knows it has sufficient power to start. Don't ask why, there isn't a super computer in their, less computing power than the smart phone in your pocket. Anyways that's how they do it. Hope that helps!!
I had my dash full of lights, abs, traction control and Ford dealership said I had a bad abs controller. Cost $2100 to fix. I watched this video and all my lights went out! I just want to say thank you so much for making this video you saved me so much money! God bless
Thanks for taking the time to make this video and share some valuable info. This helped me get pointed in the right direction to repair an intermittent backup camera problem on a 2013 F-150. I wanted to return the favor with a bit of info that I learned in the process of making this repair. After reworking a few ground connections as shown here, I started to see some info regarding the types of silicone that are available and that some should not be used with electrical connections. I had used Permatex RTV Silicone Clear Adhesive 80050, and after trying to find out whether or not it was acceptable for electrical connections and seeing multiple conflicting opinions, I decided to go straight to the manufacturer and called Permatex. The product rep that I spoke with was very knowledgable and helpful, he explained that there are 2 basic types of silicones, one is acetic and one is neutral. You do not want use an acetic silicone on electrical connections as it has an acidic solvent in it that helps it cure faster and can cause corrosion on the connection or wires. A neutral silicone would be ok, he suggested just putting a good coat of dielectric grease over everything once it is cleaned and put back together. Another option for a more durable coating would be to paint on some liquid electrical tape. Hope this helps someone, thanks again for the videos and keep them coming!
For grounds like that use regular grease, not dielectric grease. The reason is that you want current to flow as much as possible and there's no chance for the grease to leak current to a positive source. You would want to use dielectric grease in a situation where positive and negative terminals are close, such as a bulb socket or harness connector, and you don't want any type of conductive grease to cause a short circuit. But for a situation like a frame connection all alone, a conductive grease or regular 'ol grease will only enhance that conductivity between the connector and the frame. If you use it sparingly and clean it off the external surfaces, then you can paint the metal to protect it from rust and seal off the electrical connection even more from moisture.
Using regular grease on a chassis ground is actually not recommended, because typical greases do not conduct electricity. Regular greases are typically made from petroleum products or silicone, which are insulators rather than conductors. Applying such greases to a grounding point could interfere with the electrical connection by introducing a resistive barrier between the metal surfaces. However, the idea of using a substance to prevent corrosion at grounding points is a good practice. Instead of regular grease, it's advisable to use a specific type of grease called dielectric grease or a product known as conductive grease: 1. **Dielectric Grease**: Despite being a non-conductor, dielectric grease is beneficial for protecting the metal parts from moisture and corrosion. It is silicone-based and prevents moisture ingress, which can lead to corrosion and poor connections over time. Dielectric grease is applied around the connection rather than between the contact surfaces themselves. This helps in preserving the connection while protecting the surrounding area from environmental elements. 2. **Conductive Grease**: For applications where electrical conductivity is crucial, such as on battery terminals or grounding points, conductive grease is appropriate. This type of grease contains materials that facilitate electrical conduction. When applying conductive grease, it’s important to ensure it is suitable for the specific type of electrical connection and environmental conditions. When improving grounding connections on a chassis or other electrical grounding systems, the goal is to maintain a solid metal-to-metal contact. If corrosion is a concern, consider cleaning the contact surfaces thoroughly, using conductive grease sparingly, and ensuring all connections are tight and secure. Always verify the type of product you are using to make sure it serves the purpose of enhancing electrical conductivity rather than inhibiting it.
“Di-electric” is in the name Dielectric grease. Silicone based, it promotes conductivity only at 0.5 micron or less gap and becomes insulating when gap is greater. It is semi-conducting when electricity passes it. Normal grease is extremely bad for electrical use.
Thanks for the reminder Ford Boss. I need to do that to my 2011 F350 Super Duty. My wife's 2014 Ford Escape bad grounding issue last year. We bought it and didn't know the battery was low already. So while driving on a sunny day the wipers went on full blast like a ghost turned it on. 1st Ford doesn't make it easy to get to that battery. I went to check the cables and the negative cable was corroded beyond repair. I soon learned that many sensor problems are due to low battery levels. New cable installed. I like your solution with the silicone after cleaning it up. Appreciate it.
Had a 2001 3.8 that wasn't starting intermittently. Thought it was the battery and that fixed it for about a month.It stopped starting and I had power to the starter so I figured the starter finally died and I got a new one. On taking the starter out I found a ground on the starter was loose. Tighten the ground up, returned the new starter and I was back in business. Gotta have good grounds. Good video. Happy Motoring
Incredibly helpful thank you! My truck is exhibiting the exact issue that you described so fingers crossed. For what it's worth mine is a 2019 F150 with 39k on the odometer.
Solid advice I relocated my ground on my 92 econoline 150 grinded it cleaned bolted it tight and sealed it up did wonders no more voltage drops and fast starts
I've had to do that a lot on the Econolines especially right underneath the passenger door where the ground braided strap goes from the body to the frame those rot out and then they won't start
Man I had some good times in that ol conversion van lol but uh ended up letting her go she developed some valve issues but I want more power from my 4.6 06 TC any mod or cheap diy suggestions?
You know, recently Eric O of South Main Auto found a similar issue with a really new GM truck, braided ground strap going from body to frame caused all sorts of electrical issues along with loss of electric power steering. He replaced the braided strap with a beefy 4 gauge cable, should outlast the truck.
I have a 2017 f150 3.5 ecoboost I have done and replaced about everything, tested so many things cannot find the issue. I keep getting a charging system service now signal even after cleaning this ground it’s very intermittent and happens a lot on bumpy roads. Thank you
Really appreciate the video. Don't know for sure if it will fix my problem yet but it's something I haven't seen yet and I've been searching high and low for other possibilities
Btw mine were toasted. 2011 3.5 liter. I've replaced relays and fuzes. Ignition switch, checked starter and am waiting on new PCM ECU. Will comment when trucks running again
My buddy has had intermittent no start, and now it just won’t start at all and he’s replace his butt every damn thing you can possibly replace and I’m starting to think that it’s all ground problems, thanks for making a video, 2012 F150 is what I’m referencing. Let me know if you have any input extra, cheers brother
Im having the same issue, powers up but wont crank and no start. Battery drains daily when connected. Just bought a new started but it could possibly be the ground wires.. ima clean them first and see. Wish me luck
Thank you for making this video! I've got a 2012 fx4 3.5 that throws advance trac and low battery only when its cold out. I was hoping it was maybe a bad ground or loose pin that contracts when cold. You've given me a great starting point. Grounds are easier than chasing wiring harnesses! P.S. Any idea who the genius was at Ford who thought it was intelligent to disable your power steering when the battery sensor (garbage, btw) thinks voltage is low? lol
@@FordBossMe it has an induction type battery monitor. I think 2011-15 had this set up and they went to an inline monitor in 2015. Is that ground for the epas behind the skid plate?
🙄 correct. My 2011 has the induction. My power steering did stop working once, the clamp coming from the positive harness directly after the battery gets loose. You will still read 12v at the PS motor but will not have the amperage to anything. Remember your dielectric grease 😁
This is commonly misunderstood. The grinding of the body is doing a disservice, look at the ground lug. The bolt head makes clean, wide contact with the lug, then the bolt becomes the conductive part. The bolt now conducts on the frame threads to make the electrical path, this why it’s always bolted to painted surfaces. Sometimes they have serrated washers that scratch through paint a little too. Grinding a big patch of bare metal around the lug is not so useful and makes the area more susceptible to rust. What you are right about is the need to protect the whole area from getting rusty. Silicone is not my preferred method but I won’t criticize it.
So I use the silicone to keep away the moisture but it's not going to stop the bolt for making contact with the body of the vehicle I've been doing this for too long a lot of people say that it's an insulator but that's more for connectors not so much when you're putting a big bolt into a piece of frame
What is your preferred method? I'm trying to learn different ways and techniques for different tasks and I do think that silicone helps, but just by the way it looks I can tell it wouldn't last long. Would an insulating spray like the ones used on batteries be better? Or an anti-rust spray treatment maybe?
I am an electrician in the country's largest fire apparatus manufacturer, and yes the paint is always ground off and the connection covered with a silicone sealant. I do agree that the threads are probably doing the most conducting, but a clean tight mating between the bolt head, the cable lug and the frame or body surface is also going to conduct . We also use a dielectric grease on such fittings, mainly inside the vehicle away from weather. Some of the ground cables on a fire truck are as large as 4/0, so yeah a lotta electrons......
I argue this, if the fastener (bolt) threads and their limited contact surfaces were doing the job, we wouldn't be discussing a remedy today. However, I grant you (any opposing voice) that they probably started out fine, so perhaps weather protecting these factory ground connections during production is the answer. But as a remedy later, I'm looking to peel back as much paint from the frame as necessary to plant that cable end firmly against bare metal. It already failed once. I'm doubling down on the contact area the second time. I wouldn't want the problem to present itaelf again, at least not from these locations. These vehicles have enough wiring problems after 10 years without me adding to the list.
What if you just repainted or sealed the connection after service. I think an exterior Paint seal may be better than silicon as silicon could lose the seal over time. Maybe silicon on the painted connection?
My 2011 f150 has been down for a week. Had it towed from work to my home after it wouldn't start. My little scanner will not communicate with it. The dash is showing starting system fault, advanced trac, low oil pressure, over heating and shows the wrench. When I enter the vehicle mileage shows on the odometer. When I turn the key odometer shows dashes rather than digits. Also, the radio and blower has power until I turn key to starter position, at this time I hear one click from BCM. I've checked fuses in bcm and under the hood. Swapped relays as well. I can paperclip jump the starter at the relay even though it doesn't start. This ground looks rough, so I'll clean it up. I did have an intermittent battery light a few weeks before all of this.
@HoustonRocket281 No, my problem was a pinched and corroded wire at one of the pcm plugs. The black hood/cover over the plug pinched it when it was installed. Either a factory defect or from a dealer before I owned it.
You forgot one thing. And a Kentucky plant electrical engineer showed us this. Between the frame and ground terminal needs a star washer that will bite through zinc coat and paint. Often Fords ground terminals do have a bite to them, they’re useless after the first fastening. We put a new star washer down against the paint no matter what. We got a Ford plant employee from the Kentucky plant we paid for advisory and he showed us this way. He said they rarely bite through paint a second time. Their bite flattens he says after their initial factory fastening. But never mentioned silicone so we adapted your silicone fix with his new star washer trick and we’ve all but eliminated these issues completely.
Do you think a grounding issue would cause random bulbs to go out for a few days, come back on, and then another random one goes out? I’ve been tracking this issue down for awhile!
that is the AC (Alternating Current) ripple voltage that exceeds the maximum tolerance limit of around 0.4V_AC which comes from a decrease in alternator performance...
I'm experiencing something similar my cab light on the inside that is supposed to either be in the off position or in the middle position it will come on when the doors are open and then the all the way over position would turn the inside light on and keep it on. Well sometimes that will turn on and sometimes it won't whenever it's in the middle position also when I am driving down the road also when I'm driving down the road and I have my AC on it is all fine and dandy but as soon as I come to a stop my battery light comes on until I start moving again
I found a copper(protected looks like silver) ac delco ground on amazon for like 10 bucks and was curious of I can use that to replace this body ground or do I need the Ford part?
What were your trucks symptoms? Mine is shifting as it pleases an will suddenly drop from 6th gear down to 2nd even if im driving 70mph. not sure what the issue is b/c the trans is shifting smoothly in most cases but i did get 8 codes p0151, p0151, po299, p0300, p0304, p0306, p054a @FordBossMe is that something i should try?
I just did an engine/trans swap from a 17 3.5 ecoboost to a 19 3.5 H.O (just used my old harness)I’m currently experiencing a p060B but before that every time I accelerated or hit bumps too hard (sometimes when I turned) I got hill assist/check break system/service advancetrac, the truck seem to power down for a split second and get up and go again, going to try this method after work see if it helps any I know my grounding wires are a caked in dirt and mine has that tranny wiring on the side as well going to mess with that as well thanks man
I'm not at the dealer anymore and I don't have access to the same type of content that I did before if you remind me on Monday when I get back to work I'll look into this but I'm a general manager at an independent shop now so the resources have changed a little bit
I appreciate that a lot man I Really do. I’ve lingered through your videos the past couple years since I bought this truck and the amount of information I’ve learned from your can not be topped I hope you have a good weekend man
@@FordBossMe I havnt got around to messing with my ground wires yet but I’ve been driving my truck around and I’ve cleared the codes to see if it’ll pop up again so far I’m only getting a bank 2 below thresh hold which I will get around too soon although it still get triggerd by bumps hasn’t popped up any out of the ordinary codes
DO NOT put dielectric grease or any other grease between the contact surfaces! Grease can & will act as an insulator. Use nickel or copper anti seize which is conductive. Any electrician will tell you that!
@@FordBossMe Makes ZERO sense. Threads do not push out all the grease. Contact is made at the flat mating surface & the threads,. This is why you use CONDUCTIVE anti seize to make a full conductive joint. Electrical 101! Once this is done you can spray paint or rubberized undercoating on TOP of the bolt head & the exposed bolt thread.
There's nobody else that had an issue with how I explained things in the comment section so there's a few of you that want to have your hand held and I don't have time to do that with every single person so I apologize for not meeting your expectations but don't complain about things when you're getting stuff for free
Could this be why my battery light comes on when I come to a complete stop but only when my AC is running? It can idle without the AC on and it will not pop the battery light on but if it's sitting still with the AC on the battery light will come on every time
I know this video is old a 2013 f150 every time I put the headlights on did a dash lights go down what could it be I appreciate it if you could answer me I watch all your videos can I listen to him and I do what you tell me to do
My firewall ground to engine block is just dangling .I guess I have to take the wheel off and access that side of the motor to see where it snapped off .
I cleaned the corrosion off to the frame to body ground ends 8 of the 9 code's cleared only air bag code driver side think in the steer wheel off n on light when turn the wheel hard to the left some ground problem maybe
@FordBossMe 2017 f150, 2.7 battery is draining but not getting a service charging system msg, just battery light when it drops to low 11’s swapped new battery twice, same result. No other accessories installed to drain battery. Getting 12v at terminals. Haven’t changed alternator because I’m not getting a charging msg, no codes, no check engine. Any thoughts ? Thank you sir.
Would this potentially be a reason for my entertainment system to go out? My dash goes in and out, and it’s random. When it goes out, the ac and radio is out. It’s wild
Randomly goes out would prob be a bad radio or a connection issue or bad front control panel - it's the buttons and plastic part that goes around everything hvac controls are in it as well and they go bad at times
Rear lights might have water in them or the ground to the frame in the rear on the inside of the Fram passenger side toward back by where the receiver hitch mount slides in might be rotten
Ahh .. wonder if this could be issue with dang P0605 getting in 06 F150 … cleaned up connections on battery.. cleared code but light came back on and same code again. Bulb seems to be common issue but not on mine as light is always on
Whenever you put the codes down on your comments and you want questions answered you got to say what the code means because typically the guy responding to the message has so much stuff going on he's not going to go look it up
Wonder if this is why I’m getting so many error codes: front camera malfunction, parking aid issue, door ajar message, coolant issue, service advance trac, pre collision assist not available, and some others. They have replaced the gateway module twice and it still does it. And sometimes my 8 inch screen will say vehicle network communication error. Is it just 2 bolts to do this to or are there several of them?
that is the AC (Alternating Current) ripple voltage that exceeds the maximum tolerance limit of around 0.4V_AC which comes from a decrease in alternator performance...
Do you know where this ground is at on a 2019 escape titanium? I recently did an oil change on this vehicle and I was looking for this ground but I cannot see where it is. I know there are a couple of grounds up top under the air box but I could not see anything underneath it.
Thanks man for the video,Now my 2017 F150 driver headlights is a little not much just a bit brighter than the passenger side,I check all the connections changed the bulbs check beam levels and nothing,any idea whats going on,Thanks again!
So when you start to run the bolt through the threads it pushes it out that's the main thing it doesn't stop it from making contact in the thread area only at the head that's why I do it this way and I'm going to continue doing it this way
Would you say this is necessary in Florida? My 2002 f150 @250k looked new underneath except a little dirt and oil spooge that leaked from the filter adapter before I replaced the gasket.
Could this cause truck to not go into reverse? Had this happen 2 times, took to mechanic and it was fine, they couldnt find anything wrong. Then the other day would not crank, nothing.
I wouldn't say 90% better know your statistics are not correct just follow my video and don't add any more to it please I'm a professional I do this every single day I run my own business and stuff now just leave this stuff up to me
Don't know if this will help but I have a 2014 F-150 3.5L the turn signals are hyper with regular bulbs and leds and the engine feels like it's shaking a little bit. Now today someone told me that I only have rear brake light just on the top light not my tail lights. Would this be a ground issue? Thank you for the help in advance...
Help, please if you can comment me, sir. 2012 F150 3.5L TT right signal issue. The yellow bulb is fine and replaced, wiring, good, Fuse 38 good but can hear loud fast clicking when right signal turn on, parking lights r good. All lights good include brake lights works. Right signal won't work while the dashboard blinked too fast while front bulb won't show on flashing except parking lot works but not flashing. Left zero issues. Right rear got fast flashing but buls are good. Is that BCM screwed up or what?? My headlights are AlphaRex Black Series Pro plus hyperflash resistor installed, too. Stock bulbs installed, but DRL came with sequential turn signal same time with stock bulb flashing. Can I reprogramming BCM or not?
Sometimes you have to clear the codes out of the computer for it to work right because it will shut the circuit down for the body control module so you got to go into the body control module and clear the codes
Thanks so much. I did clear codes and clicked Body Control Module self-test demand to do the test and reprogram itself to sense the new AlphaRex Black Series Pro headlight with drl signal strip. It works.
It will stop moisture and stuff like that from affecting the connection but it pushes out once you get inside to the threads and it makes good connections so tomato whatever you want to do you do but it works
Can this be th reason why I'm getting an open circuit or ground short on my right rear wheel speed sensor ? 🤔 been working on this problem for 2 months now, haven't taken it to the dealership because it's too expensive for me and the family right now please help
1 single sensor I don't thing so It's probably a tone ring on the rear axle dirty or broken Its a bad wheel speed sensor - could be wiring but I doubt it
@@FordBossMe it was dirty with dirt so I cleaned it and put back on, after that ended up moving some wires going straight to the abs module. It started working got my power steering back and abs light off until I hit a pot hole and everything turned back on service advancetrac, abs light on and power steering deactivated. Still stuck with this problem.
What typically causes 420 and 430 codes is the vehicle is running rough and the customer never does anything about it until it's too late and it's already destroyed both catalytic converters or there is some kind of leak somewhere vacuum wise on the engine sometimes it will create lean codes sometimes it will create Rich code to just all depends on how it's failing but I've replaced a lot of those catalytic converters as well because PO420 and po430 means catalytic converter inefficiency that typically means the catalytic converters are bad
It could or you could have a what's called a Gateway module malfunction or the Gateway module could be bad or you could have some kind of communication come issue going on but a lot of times the Gateway module is the reason for that condition
trying to figure out my 2013 f150 ecoboost, no power steering, no traction control and no turn signal, everytime im trying to look it up i just keep seeing everyone saying its the fuse 125a on the battery but its not blown, tried cleaning all the connetions on the fuse to the battery to the wires but still having the issue, tryna look for the grounds for the EPAS but cant find it, not the same location as this video. last resort is a new rack i guess. Any help or suggestions will be appreciated alot
@@FordBossMe I cleaned the fuse connected to the battery, and all the connections around it, I tested it first with multimeter if connection is going through, I tested every single fuse with test light and all lit up. traction control light started coming on first then the steering started getting heavy at some angles then lost all steering power assist all together few days later. after going abit off roading with abit of water. same time no more turn signal. Im being told tho some experience the exact same but had to change the whole rack and solved it.
i drive a 2012 f150 5.0 fx4 weird electrical issue left head light goes in and out wipers dont work rear camera went out all of this happend after my traction control light came one which then the engine light wrench popped up dealer says IDS wont connect so that cant diagnose the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
oh yea fog lamps are really dim if i turn them on right blinker blinks fast if i turn them off rt blinker blinks just fine. left head lamp worked picking it up from dealership and rear camera works. wipers went half was up windshield stopped came half way down stopped then went all the way down @fordbossme any ideas?
So I cleaned the body to frame grounds it definitely needed it. And just for fun I took out the fog lamp fuse went to turn on the fog lamps just to see, and they were on but very dim still. I'm guessing there is bare wire somewhere that is touching a hot wire. Also thinking tho what are the Chances that a Body control module could be causing these issues? Or is that like last resort possibility. Whenever you get a chance to share your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
What were your trucks symptoms? Mine is shifting as it pleases an will suddenly drop from 6th gear down to 2nd even if im driving 70mph. not sure what the issue is b/c the trans is shifting smoothly in most cases but i did get 8 codes p0151, p0151, po299, p0300, p0304, p0306, p054a @FordBossMe is that something i should try?
The ground is under the passenger side on the frame going to the body but there's grounds in multiple locations there's another one that goes from the crossmember of the power steering control module in the middle by the oil pan up to the power steering control module and there's two on the firewall above the engine and there's one more in the rear of the truck that goes to the frame right behind the back bumper for the lighting system
Can this be related to a starting system fault? I have a 2011 f150 5.0 and I can start my truck with the key button but as soon I put the key on and turn it on It shuts off and on the dash it says "starting system fault". Now I can't start my truck with the key on,I don't know what to do...
I need you to go to the fuse panel on the passenger side kick panel foot well and check and make sure all of the connections are clicked in all the way
@@FordBossMe I already checked the fuse box and everything seems to be ok. I tried to start my truck with my second key and still nothing. But I noticed that when I turn the key on, the fuse box inside the truck makes a clicking noise. At this point I think my only options are to replace the pat and the ignition switch. But I will watch your other videos..... thank you.
That is a terrific conductor but unfortunately it does not prevent joint corrosion between dissimilar metals like Noalox does for Aluminum and Copper.. With these Aluminum truck bodies and steel frames I am curious how Ford intended to protect the integrity of those ground connections..?
Typically what affects the radio is there's too much junk from somebody's phone in there and it starts jamming it up and then you have to go under General and then go into settings and do a master reset and sometimes that fixes it but it's going to wipe all of the phone stored information out and if it continues to do it then you probably need a new audio control module or accessory protocol interface module
I appreciate your comment but last I checked I was the professional on this job and this is the way I seen fit to do the repair and that's how I did it and explained other people could do it too so that sticks unfortunately for you you have no say in this matter
@FordBossMe I'm confused. Are you saying you did or did not do put grease in between the ground and frame? To quote you, "put dielectric grease between all surfaces"
What are symptoms of ground issues ?
Intermittent no start, EPAS codes your electronic power assist steering, intermittent trans shifting issues, communication errors on the network, there's too many things to mention and it only takes half hour to do all these connections so it would be worth it to go ahead and get ahead of it now
@@FordBossMe awesome. Spring maintenance once the deep freeze is over !
Good Idea
Reset it and next time put the negative from the charger on any ground that is right next to the battery, there are at least a couple. That way the ECU sees amps going into the battery and knows it has sufficient power to start. Don't ask why, there isn't a super computer in their, less computing power than the smart phone in your pocket. Anyways that's how they do it. Hope that helps!!
@@FordBossMewhat's the name of the harness u mentioned that's on the side of the frame rail???
I had my dash full of lights, abs, traction control and Ford dealership said I had a bad abs controller. Cost $2100 to fix. I watched this video and all my lights went out! I just want to say thank you so much for making this video you saved me so much money! God bless
Never thought that watching a video would fix your truck. Lucky you 😂
Thanks for taking the time to make this video and share some valuable info. This helped me get pointed in the right direction to repair an intermittent backup camera problem on a 2013 F-150. I wanted to return the favor with a bit of info that I learned in the process of making this repair. After reworking a few ground connections as shown here, I started to see some info regarding the types of silicone that are available and that some should not be used with electrical connections. I had used Permatex RTV Silicone Clear Adhesive 80050, and after trying to find out whether or not it was acceptable for electrical connections and seeing multiple conflicting opinions, I decided to go straight to the manufacturer and called Permatex. The product rep that I spoke with was very knowledgable and helpful, he explained that there are 2 basic types of silicones, one is acetic and one is neutral. You do not want use an acetic silicone on electrical connections as it has an acidic solvent in it that helps it cure faster and can cause corrosion on the connection or wires. A neutral silicone would be ok, he suggested just putting a good coat of dielectric grease over everything once it is cleaned and put back together. Another option for a more durable coating would be to paint on some liquid electrical tape. Hope this helps someone, thanks again for the videos and keep them coming!
Thank you sir, I was having seven electrical issues, I think this corrected my problem. You sir are a fine tech!
Issues still fixed?
For grounds like that use regular grease, not dielectric grease. The reason is that you want current to flow as much as possible and there's no chance for the grease to leak current to a positive source. You would want to use dielectric grease in a situation where positive and negative terminals are close, such as a bulb socket or harness connector, and you don't want any type of conductive grease to cause a short circuit. But for a situation like a frame connection all alone, a conductive grease or regular 'ol grease will only enhance that conductivity between the connector and the frame. If you use it sparingly and clean it off the external surfaces, then you can paint the metal to protect it from rust and seal off the electrical connection even more from moisture.
100% right. A dielectric is defined as an insulating material or a very poor conductor of electric current.
Using regular grease on a chassis ground is actually not recommended, because typical greases do not conduct electricity. Regular greases are typically made from petroleum products or silicone, which are insulators rather than conductors. Applying such greases to a grounding point could interfere with the electrical connection by introducing a resistive barrier between the metal surfaces.
However, the idea of using a substance to prevent corrosion at grounding points is a good practice. Instead of regular grease, it's advisable to use a specific type of grease called dielectric grease or a product known as conductive grease:
1. **Dielectric Grease**: Despite being a non-conductor, dielectric grease is beneficial for protecting the metal parts from moisture and corrosion. It is silicone-based and prevents moisture ingress, which can lead to corrosion and poor connections over time. Dielectric grease is applied around the connection rather than between the contact surfaces themselves. This helps in preserving the connection while protecting the surrounding area from environmental elements.
2. **Conductive Grease**: For applications where electrical conductivity is crucial, such as on battery terminals or grounding points, conductive grease is appropriate. This type of grease contains materials that facilitate electrical conduction. When applying conductive grease, it’s important to ensure it is suitable for the specific type of electrical connection and environmental conditions.
When improving grounding connections on a chassis or other electrical grounding systems, the goal is to maintain a solid metal-to-metal contact. If corrosion is a concern, consider cleaning the contact surfaces thoroughly, using conductive grease sparingly, and ensuring all connections are tight and secure. Always verify the type of product you are using to make sure it serves the purpose of enhancing electrical conductivity rather than inhibiting it.
Use noa-lox. It can be found in the electrical dept or with any electrician. It conducts, electricity, doublesas anti-seize, and prevents corrosion.
“Di-electric” is in the name Dielectric grease. Silicone based, it promotes conductivity only at 0.5 micron or less gap and becomes insulating when gap is greater. It is semi-conducting when electricity passes it. Normal grease is extremely bad for electrical use.
WRONG
Thanks for the reminder Ford Boss. I need to do that to my 2011 F350 Super Duty. My wife's 2014 Ford Escape bad grounding issue last year. We bought it and didn't know the battery was low already. So while driving on a sunny day the wipers went on full blast like a ghost turned it on. 1st Ford doesn't make it easy to get to that battery. I went to check the cables and the negative cable was corroded beyond repair. I soon learned that many sensor problems are due to low battery levels. New cable installed. I like your solution with the silicone after cleaning it up. Appreciate it.
Had a 2001 3.8 that wasn't starting intermittently. Thought it was the battery and that fixed it for about a month.It stopped starting and I had power to the starter so I figured the starter finally died and I got a new one. On taking the starter out I found a ground on the starter was loose. Tighten the ground up, returned the new starter and I was back in business. Gotta have good grounds. Good video. Happy Motoring
Been having gremlin electric problems with the 2014 I just bought. Going to give this a try.
Incredibly helpful thank you! My truck is exhibiting the exact issue that you described so fingers crossed. For what it's worth mine is a 2019 F150 with 39k on the odometer.
With a Ford especially the more ground cables the better, I did several on mine and it makes a world of difference
Thanks for the tip. A lot of techs would not share important info like that.
Solid advice I relocated my ground on my 92 econoline 150 grinded it cleaned bolted it tight and sealed it up did wonders no more voltage drops and fast starts
I've had to do that a lot on the Econolines especially right underneath the passenger door where the ground braided strap goes from the body to the frame those rot out and then they won't start
Man I had some good times in that ol conversion van lol but uh ended up letting her go she developed some valve issues but I want more power from my 4.6 06 TC any mod or cheap diy suggestions?
You know, recently Eric O of South Main Auto found a similar issue with a really new GM truck, braided ground strap going from body to frame caused all sorts of electrical issues along with loss of electric power steering. He replaced the braided strap with a beefy 4 gauge cable, should outlast the truck.
Yep it's common on these newer trucks
Thank you for your videos you’re busy videos are very helpful and thanks for thank you for the helpful tips
Thank you for your professional advice. I'm sure you helped a lot of people out with this video thank you much.11 LXT.
Great advice, thank you for posting this.
Good advice, I will do this. I am an electrician and will tell you that the ground is HALF of the circuit.!
I have a 2017 f150 3.5 ecoboost I have done and replaced about everything, tested so many things cannot find the issue. I keep getting a charging system service now signal even after cleaning this ground it’s very intermittent and happens a lot on bumpy roads. Thank you
On my 2016 the body to ground is causing some aluminum corrosion. I definitely should hop on it asap
I do everything besides the silicone. I just spray over to seal to prevent rot. Works well.
Really appreciate the video. Don't know for sure if it will fix my problem yet but it's something I haven't seen yet and I've been searching high and low for other possibilities
Btw mine were toasted. 2011 3.5 liter. I've replaced relays and fuzes. Ignition switch, checked starter and am waiting on new PCM ECU. Will comment when trucks running again
Thank you so much man
Low voltage can be very bad to some motors. That could certainly make them fail.
the grounds I've been seeing in the f150s are so bad
My buddy has had intermittent no start, and now it just won’t start at all and he’s replace his butt every damn thing you can possibly replace and I’m starting to think that it’s all ground problems, thanks for making a video, 2012 F150 is what I’m referencing. Let me know if you have any input extra, cheers brother
I had a brand new one with corrosion on the little braided strap that's on the starter solenoid that was causing a problem
Im having the same issue, powers up but wont crank and no start. Battery drains daily when connected. Just bought a new started but it could possibly be the ground wires.. ima clean them first and see. Wish me luck
Lol looked this up cause I’m having issues with motor noise in my cb radio in a f150 this I’m sure will help.
Thank you for making this video! I've got a 2012 fx4 3.5 that throws advance trac and low battery only when its cold out. I was hoping it was maybe a bad ground or loose pin that contracts when cold. You've given me a great starting point. Grounds are easier than chasing wiring harnesses!
P.S. Any idea who the genius was at Ford who thought it was intelligent to disable your power steering when the battery sensor (garbage, btw) thinks voltage is low? lol
Thought the battery monitor didn't come out until like 2015 on those
@@FordBossMe it has an induction type battery monitor. I think 2011-15 had this set up and they went to an inline monitor in 2015.
Is that ground for the epas behind the skid plate?
🙄 correct. My 2011 has the induction. My power steering did stop working once, the clamp coming from the positive harness directly after the battery gets loose. You will still read 12v at the PS motor but will not have the amperage to anything. Remember your dielectric grease 😁
This is commonly misunderstood. The grinding of the body is doing a disservice, look at the ground lug. The bolt head makes clean, wide contact with the lug, then the bolt becomes the conductive part. The bolt now conducts on the frame threads to make the electrical path, this why it’s always bolted to painted surfaces. Sometimes they have serrated washers that scratch through paint a little too. Grinding a big patch of bare metal around the lug is not so useful and makes the area more susceptible to rust. What you are right about is the need to protect the whole area from getting rusty. Silicone is not my preferred method but I won’t criticize it.
So I use the silicone to keep away the moisture but it's not going to stop the bolt for making contact with the body of the vehicle I've been doing this for too long a lot of people say that it's an insulator but that's more for connectors not so much when you're putting a big bolt into a piece of frame
What is your preferred method? I'm trying to learn different ways and techniques for different tasks and I do think that silicone helps, but just by the way it looks I can tell it wouldn't last long. Would an insulating spray like the ones used on batteries be better? Or an anti-rust spray treatment maybe?
I am an electrician in the country's largest fire apparatus manufacturer, and yes the paint is always ground off and the connection covered with a silicone sealant. I do agree that the threads are probably doing the most conducting, but a clean tight mating between the bolt head, the cable lug and the frame or body surface is also going to conduct . We also use a dielectric grease on such fittings, mainly inside the vehicle away from weather. Some of the ground cables on a fire truck are as large as 4/0, so yeah a lotta electrons......
I argue this, if the fastener (bolt) threads and their limited contact surfaces were doing the job, we wouldn't be discussing a remedy today. However, I grant you (any opposing voice) that they probably started out fine, so perhaps weather protecting these factory ground connections during production is the answer. But as a remedy later, I'm looking to peel back as much paint from the frame as necessary to plant that cable end firmly against bare metal. It already failed once. I'm doubling down on the contact area the second time. I wouldn't want the problem to present itaelf again, at least not from these locations. These vehicles have enough wiring problems after 10 years without me adding to the list.
What if you just repainted or sealed the connection after service. I think an exterior Paint seal may be better than silicon as silicon could lose the seal over time. Maybe silicon on the painted connection?
Thanks for posting this bro super helpful
Saved for future reference. Thanks man
Not A Problem
Sometimes my drivers front running light goes out and the blinker hyperflashes, then when its on its dim. Maybe Ill give this a try
Thank you for this video !!!!
My 2011 f150 has been down for a week. Had it towed from work to my home after it wouldn't start. My little scanner will not communicate with it. The dash is showing starting system fault, advanced trac, low oil pressure, over heating and shows the wrench. When I enter the vehicle mileage shows on the odometer. When I turn the key odometer shows dashes rather than digits. Also, the radio and blower has power until I turn key to starter position, at this time I hear one click from BCM.
I've checked fuses in bcm and under the hood. Swapped relays as well. I can paperclip jump the starter at the relay even though it doesn't start. This ground looks rough, so I'll clean it up. I did have an intermittent battery light a few weeks before all of this.
Did the ground fix it ?
@HoustonRocket281 No, my problem was a pinched and corroded wire at one of the pcm plugs. The black hood/cover over the plug pinched it when it was installed. Either a factory defect or from a dealer before I owned it.
Thank you
Great Video, Thanks👍
You forgot one thing. And a Kentucky plant electrical engineer showed us this. Between the frame and ground terminal needs a star washer that will bite through zinc coat and paint. Often Fords ground terminals do have a bite to them, they’re useless after the first fastening. We put a new star washer down against the paint no matter what. We got a Ford plant employee from the Kentucky plant we paid for advisory and he showed us this way. He said they rarely bite through paint a second time. Their bite flattens he says after their initial factory fastening. But never mentioned silicone so we adapted your silicone fix with his new star washer trick and we’ve all but eliminated these issues completely.
Do you think a grounding issue would cause random bulbs to go out for a few days, come back on, and then another random one goes out? I’ve been tracking this issue down for awhile!
that is the AC (Alternating Current) ripple voltage that exceeds the maximum tolerance limit of around 0.4V_AC which comes from a decrease in alternator performance...
I'm experiencing something similar my cab light on the inside that is supposed to either be in the off position or in the middle position it will come on when the doors are open and then the all the way over position would turn the inside light on and keep it on. Well sometimes that will turn on and sometimes it won't whenever it's in the middle position also when I am driving down the road also when I'm driving down the road and I have my AC on it is all fine and dandy but as soon as I come to a stop my battery light comes on until I start moving again
I found a copper(protected looks like silver) ac delco ground on amazon for like 10 bucks and was curious of I can use that to replace this body ground or do I need the Ford part?
This fixed me thank you
Glad I could help
What were your trucks symptoms? Mine is shifting as it pleases an will suddenly drop from 6th gear down to 2nd even if im driving 70mph. not sure what the issue is b/c the trans is shifting smoothly in most cases but i did get 8 codes p0151, p0151, po299, p0300, p0304, p0306, p054a @FordBossMe is that something i should try?
I just did an engine/trans swap from a 17 3.5 ecoboost to a 19 3.5 H.O (just used my old harness)I’m currently experiencing a p060B but before that every time I accelerated or hit bumps too hard (sometimes when I turned) I got hill assist/check break system/service advancetrac, the truck seem to power down for a split second and get up and go again, going to try this method after work see if it helps any I know my grounding wires are a caked in dirt and mine has that tranny wiring on the side as well going to mess with that as well thanks man
I'm not at the dealer anymore and I don't have access to the same type of content that I did before if you remind me on Monday when I get back to work I'll look into this but I'm a general manager at an independent shop now so the resources have changed a little bit
I appreciate that a lot man I Really do. I’ve lingered through your videos the past couple years since I bought this truck and the amount of information I’ve learned from your can not be topped I hope you have a good weekend man
@@FordBossMe I havnt got around to messing with my ground wires yet but I’ve been driving my truck around and I’ve cleared the codes to see if it’ll pop up again so far I’m only getting a bank 2 below thresh hold which I will get around too soon although it still get triggerd by bumps hasn’t popped up any out of the ordinary codes
DO NOT put dielectric grease or any other grease between the contact surfaces! Grease can & will act as an insulator. Use nickel or copper anti seize which is conductive.
Any electrician will tell you that!
I want it to, the threads is where the contact is made which pushes it all out
@@FordBossMe Makes ZERO sense.
Threads do not push out all the grease.
Contact is made at the flat mating surface & the threads,. This is why you use CONDUCTIVE anti seize to make a full conductive joint.
Electrical 101!
Once this is done you can spray paint or rubberized undercoating on TOP of the bolt head & the exposed bolt thread.
@@BobSmith-mc7uqJust curious Bob, do you know why panel circuit breakers come with dielectric grease already on the back stabs...?
Great video but would have appreciated a bit more clear view or explanation on where they are. Thanks
There's nobody else that had an issue with how I explained things in the comment section so there's a few of you that want to have your hand held and I don't have time to do that with every single person so I apologize for not meeting your expectations but don't complain about things when you're getting stuff for free
My fuel pump fuse keeps on blowing you think that might be the problem some kind of ground? Or maybe the smart junction box?
Could this be why my battery light comes on when I come to a complete stop but only when my AC is running? It can idle without the AC on and it will not pop the battery light on but if it's sitting still with the AC on the battery light will come on every time
I know this video is old a 2013 f150 every time I put the headlights on did a dash lights go down what could it be I appreciate it if you could answer me I watch all your videos can I listen to him and I do what you tell me to do
My firewall ground to engine block is just dangling .I guess I have to take the wheel off and access that side of the motor to see where it snapped off .
also could find a good ground spot and run your own cable to a more easily accessible spot works the same way
Same with GM stuff too...
I got a 2013 F150 im working on at the shop
I cleaned the corrosion off to the frame to body ground ends 8 of the 9 code's cleared only air bag code driver side think in the steer wheel off n on light when turn the wheel hard to the left some ground problem maybe
that happend to my brother in law 2013 ford van would not start its fixed now
@FordBossMe 2017 f150, 2.7 battery is draining but not getting a service charging system msg, just battery light when it drops to low 11’s swapped new battery twice, same result. No other accessories installed to drain battery. Getting 12v at terminals.
Haven’t changed alternator because I’m not getting a charging msg, no codes, no check engine.
Any thoughts ?
Thank you sir.
Also fluid film entire frame every year, keeps the corrosion at bay
We don't use fluid film Here, we use Blaster Surface Shield it is better clings better
Would this potentially be a reason for my entertainment system to go out?
My dash goes in and out, and it’s random. When it goes out, the ac and radio is out. It’s wild
Randomly goes out would prob be a bad radio or a connection issue or bad front control panel - it's the buttons and plastic part that goes around everything hvac controls are in it as well and they go bad at times
hello, my f150 ecoboost v6 3.5l 2019 gen2 all rear lights, and tailgate, blind spot system fault. help me please
Rear lights might have water in them or the ground to the frame in the rear on the inside of the Fram passenger side toward back by where the receiver hitch mount slides in might be rotten
Ahh .. wonder if this could be issue with dang P0605 getting in 06 F150 … cleaned up connections on battery.. cleared code but light came back on and same code again. Bulb seems to be common issue but not on mine as light is always on
Whenever you put the codes down on your comments and you want questions answered you got to say what the code means because typically the guy responding to the message has so much stuff going on he's not going to go look it up
Wonder if this is why I’m getting so many error codes: front camera malfunction, parking aid issue, door ajar message, coolant issue, service advance trac, pre collision assist not available, and some others. They have replaced the gateway module twice and it still does it. And sometimes my 8 inch screen will say vehicle network communication error.
Is it just 2 bolts to do this to or are there several of them?
that is the AC (Alternating Current) ripple voltage that exceeds the maximum tolerance limit of around 0.4V_AC which comes from a decrease in alternator performance...
Do you know where this ground is at on a 2019 escape titanium? I recently did an oil change on this vehicle and I was looking for this ground but I cannot see where it is. I know there are a couple of grounds up top under the air box but I could not see anything underneath it.
Thanks man for the video,Now my 2017 F150 driver headlights is a little not much just a bit brighter than the passenger side,I check all the connections changed the bulbs check beam levels and nothing,any idea whats going on,Thanks again!
There's a lot of grounds on the back of the firewall as well
Have you tried swapping the bulbs to see if the problem moves?
@@Randman73 Yeah I did is only the driver side,its not a bulb issue.
What size wire to use on bad ones ? 0 gage ???
Thanks.
Dielectric grease prevents electrical activity....
So when you start to run the bolt through the threads it pushes it out that's the main thing it doesn't stop it from making contact in the thread area only at the head that's why I do it this way and I'm going to continue doing it this way
Would you say this is necessary in Florida? My 2002 f150 @250k looked new underneath except a little dirt and oil spooge that leaked from the filter adapter before I replaced the gasket.
Now if it's clean it's not necessary
Could this cause truck to not go into reverse? Had this happen 2 times, took to mechanic and it was fine, they couldnt find anything wrong. Then the other day would not crank, nothing.
The f150s had a lead frame issue that would plague them 2011 - 2016 but more 2011 - 2014 than any
Should be listed in owner's manual maintenance. But its not.
Do I have to unhook the battery cables
And if you don’t want to trace the grounds add a new ground you’re better off with a new ground wire anyway 90% of electrical issues is no ground
I wouldn't say 90% better know your statistics are not correct just follow my video and don't add any more to it please I'm a professional I do this every single day I run my own business and stuff now just leave this stuff up to me
Don't know if this will help but I have a 2014 F-150 3.5L the turn signals are hyper with regular bulbs and leds and the engine feels like it's shaking a little bit. Now today someone told me that I only have rear brake light just on the top light not my tail lights. Would this be a ground issue? Thank you for the help in advance...
It could be and you also possibly need to clear codes and see what comes back
Mine cracked apart when i touched it. Shit. 23k miles though...
Help, please if you can comment me, sir. 2012 F150 3.5L TT right signal issue. The yellow bulb is fine and replaced, wiring, good, Fuse 38 good but can hear loud fast clicking when right signal turn on, parking lights r good. All lights good include brake lights works. Right signal won't work while the dashboard blinked too fast while front bulb won't show on flashing except parking lot works but not flashing. Left zero issues. Right rear got fast flashing but buls are good. Is that BCM screwed up or what?? My headlights are AlphaRex Black Series Pro plus hyperflash resistor installed, too. Stock bulbs installed, but DRL came with sequential turn signal same time with stock bulb flashing. Can I reprogramming BCM or not?
Sometimes you have to clear the codes out of the computer for it to work right because it will shut the circuit down for the body control module so you got to go into the body control module and clear the codes
Thanks so much. I did clear codes and clicked Body Control Module self-test demand to do the test and reprogram itself to sense the new AlphaRex Black Series Pro headlight with drl signal strip. It works.
i thought di-electric grease was supposed to inhibit electric current
It will stop moisture and stuff like that from affecting the connection but it pushes out once you get inside to the threads and it makes good connections so tomato whatever you want to do you do but it works
Grounds! Grounds! Grounds!
Can this be th reason why I'm getting an open circuit or ground short on my right rear wheel speed sensor ? 🤔 been working on this problem for 2 months now, haven't taken it to the dealership because it's too expensive for me and the family right now please help
1 single sensor I don't thing so
It's probably a tone ring on the rear axle dirty or broken
Its a bad wheel speed sensor - could be wiring but I doubt it
@@FordBossMe it was dirty with dirt so I cleaned it and put back on, after that ended up moving some wires going straight to the abs module. It started working got my power steering back and abs light off until I hit a pot hole and everything turned back on service advancetrac, abs light on and power steering deactivated. Still stuck with this problem.
Would this cause my radio to shut off also? i have to bang the dash a little to fix it. (2011 f-150 5.0)
No more than likely you just have bad connections or a loose ground somewhere or the radio is no good
Would this cause 420 and 430 code even after replacing both converters and all 4 o2 sensors?
What typically causes 420 and 430 codes is the vehicle is running rough and the customer never does anything about it until it's too late and it's already destroyed both catalytic converters or there is some kind of leak somewhere vacuum wise on the engine sometimes it will create lean codes sometimes it will create Rich code to just all depends on how it's failing but I've replaced a lot of those catalytic converters as well because PO420 and po430 means catalytic converter inefficiency that typically means the catalytic converters are bad
have the same problem 2020 2.7 i think leaking injectors plugging cats
Would this cause my prnd lights to not light up in the dash making a no start concern? P0705 fault?
It could or you could have a what's called a Gateway module malfunction or the Gateway module could be bad or you could have some kind of communication come issue going on but a lot of times the Gateway module is the reason for that condition
trying to figure out my 2013 f150 ecoboost, no power steering, no traction control and no turn signal, everytime im trying to look it up i just keep seeing everyone saying its the fuse 125a on the battery but its not blown, tried cleaning all the connetions on the fuse to the battery to the wires but still having the issue, tryna look for the grounds for the EPAS but cant find it, not the same location as this video. last resort is a new rack i guess. Any help or suggestions will be appreciated alot
Tell me everything that you've done so I can help you better
@@FordBossMe I cleaned the fuse connected to the battery, and all the connections around it, I tested it first with multimeter if connection is going through, I tested every single fuse with test light and all lit up.
traction control light started coming on first then the steering started getting heavy at some angles then lost all steering power assist all together few days later. after going abit off roading with abit of water. same time no more turn signal. Im being told tho some experience the exact same but had to change the whole rack and solved it.
i drive a 2012 f150 5.0 fx4 weird electrical issue left head light goes in and out wipers dont work rear camera went out all of this happend after my traction control light came one which then the engine light wrench popped up dealer says IDS wont connect so that cant diagnose the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
oh yea fog lamps are really dim if i turn them on right blinker blinks fast if i turn them off rt blinker blinks just fine. left head lamp worked picking it up from dealership and rear camera works. wipers went half was up windshield stopped came half way down stopped then went all the way down @fordbossme any ideas?
Did you check all the grounds, also check battery connections and starter connections real good
@@FordBossMe I am goin to check all the grounds after work today. Didn't think about starter. I will check that as well thank you so much
So I cleaned the body to frame grounds it definitely needed it. And just for fun I took out the fog lamp fuse went to turn on the fog lamps just to see, and they were on but very dim still. I'm guessing there is bare wire somewhere that is touching a hot wire. Also thinking tho what are the Chances that a Body control module could be causing these issues? Or is that like last resort possibility. Whenever you get a chance to share your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
@FordBossMe
What were your trucks symptoms? Mine is shifting as it pleases an will suddenly drop from 6th gear down to 2nd even if im driving 70mph. not sure what the issue is b/c the trans is shifting smoothly in most cases but i did get 8 codes p0151, p0151, po299, p0300, p0304, p0306, p054a @FordBossMe is that something i should try?
This was so long ago lol....look through the comments it could be electronic malfunctions, shifting issues etc etc
You need a adaptive strategy relearn don't
It's your lead frame. Happened to us we replaced it and then ford recalled it after we replaced it
What side of the truck are the grounds on?
The ground is under the passenger side on the frame going to the body but there's grounds in multiple locations there's another one that goes from the crossmember of the power steering control module in the middle by the oil pan up to the power steering control module and there's two on the firewall above the engine and there's one more in the rear of the truck that goes to the frame right behind the back bumper for the lighting system
@@FordBossMe thanks so much!!
is there an epaas to frame in 2016 ranger
There is no 2016 Ranger in the United States so I don't know
Can this be related to a starting system fault? I have a 2011 f150 5.0 and I can start my truck with the key button but as soon I put the key on and turn it on It shuts off and on the dash it says "starting system fault". Now I can't start my truck with the key on,I don't know what to do...
I need you to go to the fuse panel on the passenger side kick panel foot well and check and make sure all of the connections are clicked in all the way
You need to look at my F-150 no start videos in the library
@@FordBossMe I already checked the fuse box and everything seems to be ok. I tried to start my truck with my second key and still nothing. But I noticed that when I turn the key on, the fuse box inside the truck makes a clicking noise. At this point I think my only options are to replace the pat and the ignition switch. But I will watch your other videos..... thank you.
@@juandaviles @ ey juan did u ever figured out? I have same 2012 f150 no crank at all
Same here,, 2012 system fault,, no crank, Not start even jumping relay
Could this cause no spark?
Ehhhh not likely, there is a fuse for the ignition coils
Does anyone know if there is a Noalox type joint compound for Automotive applications.?
Use copper electrical paste
That is a terrific conductor but unfortunately it does not prevent joint corrosion between dissimilar metals like Noalox does for Aluminum and Copper..
With these Aluminum truck bodies and steel frames I am curious how Ford intended to protect the integrity of those ground connections..?
Any chance this is causing my P0722 & P0721 or do I just need to replace the trans lead frame?
That sounds to me like you're going to have to replace the lead frame
@@FordBossMe I was afraid of that. Got one for sale? Can’t find them anywhere
@@ericb1294ford dealership parts department is where we got ours.
Would this explain my U0422 code
possibly could
Would this effect my radio ?
Typically what affects the radio is there's too much junk from somebody's phone in there and it starts jamming it up and then you have to go under General and then go into settings and do a master reset and sometimes that fixes it but it's going to wipe all of the phone stored information out and if it continues to do it then you probably need a new audio control module or accessory protocol interface module
@@FordBossMe my issue is that it’s very staticky when I listen to music with Bluetooth
Where is that EPAS ground ?
It is fastened to the cross member the epas is bolted to
@@FordBossMe thanks for the reply, mine must have been relocated already, because it's not at that location
*DO NOT* grind the surface. Work the threads and add dielectric grease, maybe use a star washer. And grinding will just rot out the area faster.
I appreciate your comment but last I checked I was the professional on this job and this is the way I seen fit to do the repair and that's how I did it and explained other people could do it too so that sticks unfortunately for you you have no say in this matter
10-4
I sure hope this helps. Lol
Hahaha , rotten and nasty 😂😂😂😂 that's mint.
Why thr fuck would you put a dielectric grease between the contact? It's literally in the name, it does not conduct electricity.
Because that's what the f*** I do what part of that did you not understand
Maybe go get your eyes checked
@FordBossMe I'm confused. Are you saying you did or did not do put grease in between the ground and frame? To quote you, "put dielectric grease between all surfaces"
I wonder if this is why I'm stalling at stop light or at idle under a load. Dosent stall in park though.
Check basics? Tune up?