SuperHouse #21: Six Sonoff Secrets: Storage, Safety, Switches, Sensors, Software, and Sites
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
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Customise your Sonoff home automation controllers with a memory upgrade, weatherproof housing, control switches, sensors, and custom firmware.
SuperHouse:
- www.superhouse.tv
- superhousetv
- superhousetv/
Jonathan Oxer:
- jonoxer/
- jonoxer
Please support me on Patreon: www.patreon.com/superhouse - Наука та технологія
2:27 - Storage
9:08 - Safety
17:32 - Switch
22:08 - Switch (part 2)
23:23 - Switch (light switch)
27:00 - Switch (light switch part 2)
29:14 - Sensor
35:28 - Software
43:43 - Website
Saya tommy dari Indonesia.
Saya senang melihat video ini.
thxxx
"I could spend an entire episode just going through TASMOTA and things that it can do" - Please do, that would be great!!
Really enjoyed this episode.
+1 for that! That was EXACTLY what I thought, a dedicated TASMOTA walkthrough would be awesome. BTW thumbsup for your channel, one of the most useful resource I stumbled upon in a very long time! keep up the great work!
Another +1. This is probably the most informative video I've ever seen about the sonoff devices. I would love an in depth video about TASMOTA.
Agreed Agreed Agreed
I too would love to sit for an hour listening to you go through the whole software package of Tasmota
Totally agree and how do you do OTA updates
+SuperHouseTV Great episode! Thanks!
B
Very cool.... I definitely wanna hack some of these to limit the kids' TV watching time.
For wiring inline you don't actually need to cut the earth and rejoin if you strip the cable right. I passed the earth straight through my sonoff device. It's tight but you can pass it through.
Dan Herring Same. That's why I've been doing.
b b a i can n bB.
If you don't cut the ground then you will not be able to mount the Sonoff inside a box (unless you cut off the plug or don't have one to start with).
Are you saying you keep the earth line outside the box? Otherwise how do you get it through holes on both sides without cutting?
@@VARocketry its a bit late, but you can get small project boxes that are intended to go inline and split at the holes for the cable, some also have little saddle things for strain releif.
Since this video was made, fully watertight boxes are now available. Here is one I fitted to an outside
water pump: sea.banggood.com/SONOFF-IP66-Waterproof-Junction-Box-Waterproof-Case-Water-resistant-Shell-p-1223669.html?p=JQ26191551677201504Z
Nice, very concise overview of everything Sonoff. Im definitely going to have a go at upgrading the memory chip. OTA updates would be much better than stripping the projects each time to update.
I bought a new Sonoff rfr3 which don’t have GPIO14 can you do a video this new version on GPI014 please
OOOh, I just found a new toy I'm gonna start playing with!
Current Sonoff firmware (as of Dec 2019) allows the "program mode" button to toggle the device on and off. It will also allow the switch to work in LAN only mode if there is no internet connection. So far the mods on SuperHouse TV are not needed.... but I'm still watching these great videos!
If your sonoff fails to connect to your router make sure the password is less than 20 characters in length and does not contain hypens.
Good tip!
It's more than password! I had a devil of a time with a Dlink router with an SSID that contained a hyphen. Finally stumbled upon the obscure warning that the Sonoff disregards router names that contain special characters. Dlink and perhaps others have default SSIDs that contain hyphens. It will really screw you up. It was pure luck that I figured it out.
this hyphen, thats the minus sign isn't it? ...
Another password pitfall to avoid occurs when you include an end of sentence delimiter (like . , ! ?) followed by additional characters in your password. Often your keyboard parser will insert a sneaky space character (0x20) after that delimiter. My Amazon tablet was doing just this, and I could never connect with the Sonoff device. No fault of Sonoff; it just seemed that way.
@@kwgm8578 The Tasmota firmware has no such problems. Hyphens and long passwords are accepted.
Would it be possible to connect this adafruit momentary RF receiver www.mouser.co.uk/productdetail/adafruit/1096?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsMyYRRhGMFNjqDQYsYcDL2Fv3BKLtFzKE%3D
to the momentary switch solder points on the circuit board of the Sonoff th16. Would this power the receiver? I would like to add RF functionality without hacking the firmware. I also need the 16amp version, so the RF version Sonoff have isn't suitable. Any ideas?
I must say, One of the best delivered Presentations I have seen on You Tube so far, Many thanks.
Thank you, sir, Can I program it via Arduino for Light detection sensor?. Or for controlling more than one relay?.
Another important issue is it saves the last situation, i.e. after the power cut off, then returns is it returns to its previous state (ON or OFF?.
To answer your 3 questions: yes, yes, and yes. Most light sensors provide an analog signal, so you would need to use an analog input on your microcontroller. The ESP8266 only has 1 analog input, and it's very limited: it only works within a specific voltage range. It does work, though. You can also use an external A2D (Analog to Digital) converter which connects by SPI or I2C. For more than 1 relay, there are Sonoff models with 2 and 4 outputs. You can also connect extra relays using more I/O pins, and control them with transistors. I designed this board to make it easy: tron.cc/relay4. For state memory, you could write the state to FLASH memory when it changes and then check it when the program starts again. If you use the TASMOTA firmware, that feature is built in. It's controlled using the PowerOnState command.
he's got skills!
I love the soldering lessons added in!
Amazingly helpful and informative videos, thank you.
Sir can I install CR2025 or CR2032 cell in SONOFF RFR2 or sonoff powr2 switch for standby
The Arendst software is great... it is RELIABLE for the SONOFFS and handles ALEXA. Mine does as you've noted but it's not my major area as my software handles much more and is larger - hence needing the FLASH replacement. But for Sonoffs I use the Arendst software. Recommended.
Thanks Peter :-) And thanks for your excellent work documenting the Sonoff. Your blog is what sparked my interest in that particular device in the first place!
Excellent. No doubt more in the future as they release new devices!
Sir can I install CR2032 or CR 2025 button cell in sonoff rfr3 or sonoff paw R2 switch for memory standby please help me
Regarding safety - if it's worth noting to your audience that earth needs to be passed through on three wire connections, perhaps you should also suggest keeping Line and Neutral correctly passed through without being swapped (when using polarized cords). This might not be noticed when using, for example, two wire lamp cord (SPT-1 or SPT-2 in the US).
(Connecting the real Line (or Live) to L and Neutral to N, is also good practice, but perhaps less critical).
Good point. The early Sonoffs didn't have proper markings for Active / Neutral, but the current models have them labelled on both the inputs and the outputs.
great video as always! so informative and we appreciate you sharing your work with us!
Just a note for UK (probably most country's) the light switches will not replace a normal plate switch in 99% of cases as we have no neutral at the switch. Makes these a little redundant to be honest ? Great video and i am fitting these everywhere. Whats everyone doing with the naming of the dual relay model ? I called mine "the" then renamed the 2 relays "heating" and "gates" so Alexa gets "Alexa turn --the heating-- on"
Yes, that's often a problem in Australia as well. It's common to loop the active down to the wall switch and back up again, so there's only active in / active out at the switch. I hope to do an episode soon talking about some of these sorts of practical cabling problems.
Could you not potentially put these inside the ceiling rose and have live and switched live through the sonoff. So live on the input and switched live on the output and then just use your wall switch as a 3v switch like on the video? As you already have two wires going down to the light switch. You could even fit a momentary light switch, which are available in the UK for lights with a timer.
Most new build wiring in the UK now takes the neutral to the switch. All the houses built in the last 5 yraers I've worked on have had the neutrals at the switch and commened up in a connector block. Also in the kitchens there is a radial feed (20amp on 2.5mm or 32 on 4mm) to a grid switch located in one of the kitcen cupboards, with a fuse and a double pole switch feeding out to the various appliences (cooker hood, washing machine etc)
Install E77 module in sonoff and install in ceiling rose, connect light switch to E77 module. Works brilliantly for homes without common wire at switch.
Wow! What a high quality presentation, especially with the blog post behind it. Now I have to review SuperHouseTV #1-20 and their posts. I like that you are on Patreon.
* I do MQTT with Mongob behind it for persistence with both servers running on a low cost Virtual Private Server, $35 per year. I originally hosted both on my Mac but I'm switching to a laptop. I was originally thinking Raspberry PI based server but the VPS is probably cheaper and they do backups and fix the hardware if it breaks. I hate doing my own IT.
* My apps are mostly python scripts that run as periodic cronjobs on the VPS.They wakeup, check the status of the world according to Mongodb and decide what to do about it.With that infrastructure I can have lots of things going on at the same time that may or may not know about each other
* I run the open source OwnTracks app on my iPhone to log where I am so I can have the system do things based on where I am.
And that is just the beginning.
* Maybe LoRa for wider local reach than WiFi.
* Probably a cell phone modem board to get rid of Wifi dependence altogether for stuff that wants to move (luggage tracker?) Maybe Arduino Fona 808 which does both phone stuff and GPS.
* I have some bluetooth things going but they are not connected to this. Yet!
* I'm watching LTE-M like everyone doing IOT should.
Two months ago I had never heard MQTT and now I'm building my own personal Internet Of Steve. ;-) I wish I knew about your stuff long ago. You'll be saving me lots of time. Thanks.
Thanks Steve! Recently I've been trying to put more effort into the blog posts associated with the videos, but it's a lot of work. The early episodes didn't have as much information to go with them.
Your setup sounds very similar to the way I've done it, except that I used a bunch of PHP scripts triggered by Cron (and various other events) instead of Python scripts. Later I replaced most of my mashed-together core logic with OpenHAB, and there's very little glue script left. Also, my Internet connection is pretty unreliable so I use a local Raspberry Pi as the server so that I don't have to rely on anything external. I don't want my light switches to stop working just because my Internet connection has dropped out for the 3rd time today!
Another fantastic super house episode. I really to enjoy your Sonoff episodes, they are a great affordable product. Cheers!
Reed business 😆
Any practical tips? By this I mean ways to practice the mechanical skills needed for these tasks? In my case specifically soldering?
And 100% bell ding and subscribe. So well done
Very creative, extremely well presented - simply excellent! Keep up the great work. cheers
Amazing, Where on the new Sonoff Basic R3 and the the Chn4 Pro R2? do you connect your external switch too?
Want easy I2C? Use the RX and TX after you flashed it as SCL and SDA. You wont need them after flashing and you have already soldered a pin header for them. Super easy :-)
Nice tip, thanks!
Christmas tree lights these days usually come with a big clunky controller box anyways....
Another fantastic video. I've purchased a half dozen of the Sonoffs based on the previous video and have several running lights around the house. Now, with this video, I have lots more ideas for how I can use them.
Hope we'll see more videos soon from SuperHouse!!
Thanks Graham!
for the light switch is it possible to set a timer so for example touching it and after 10minutes it will turn off again would be handy for the toilet haha
Really nice work you've done so far. Only thing I have to complain about, in Germany we have to use wire end sleeves/ ferrules for multi-core wires, so shortcuts between a single lead of a wire is reduces. Especially when connected to a screw clamp, which pushes the single cores of a wire to the sides! But I do not know what the "law" says in the USA or other parts of the world.
That's a good method even when it's not legally required :-)
Is that seriously the actual law in Germany? Very interesting
Same in Switzerland, as far as I know.
No requirement for ferrules in the US. I don't think they are specifically forbidden, but they are not common.
I want to use ferrules on mine but don't know the first thing about them. I'm in the us and my house is wired up with 110v on a 20 amp fuse. Where can I find ferrules for a stranded core extension cord that will be able to withstand the current?
very, very good video, good explanation and useful stuff. I just bought 3 sonoff from China but I didn't imagine that you can do so much with it, especially I was looking for info how to connect that light switch.
Big thank you from England.
can't believe the whinging about having 'only' 1MB of storage. We used to write entire applications for the BBC Micro in 8K eproms. I can't think of anything you would want to run in a light switch that needs more than that... :-)
Yeah, but you didn't have a full tcp/ip stack and wifi interface on a bbc micro. That's where most of the space goes to.
Hola buenas me gusta mucho su video y compre un Sonoff y estoy intentando de ponerle el interuptor como al que tiene usted y no consigo que funcione,que podria hacer.Graciad y un Saludo
I've added a few more images and better descriptions to the episode page now, so it should be easier to find the specific headers, resistors, etc that I mention in the video. I'll keep expanding the page with more information over time, so if you think anything needs clarification please let me know.
Is there enough space in the filesystem to allow for state awareness for the MQTT server?
For example: when you use the light switch example, could the MQTT server push state update to the control all wirelessly?
Yes, that's not a problem. The Sonoff already has a concept of its own state, so the trick is just keeping everything in sync. You may have noticed in one part of the video I was alternating between using my phone and a switch to toggle the output, and I had to tap the phone twice because OpenHAB didn't know that the state of the Sonoff had been changed directly. The Sonoff would just need to report this local state change back to MQTT, so that other items (such as OpenHAB) are aware of it. That's already supported in the TASMOTA firmware, I just didn't configure OpenHAB to listen to it for the demo.
SuperHouseTV Thanks for the reply, much appreciated. 😎
SuperHouseTV can I use the sonoff basic to turn on DC motors using DC voltage?
You missed a small cheap trick that you can do to do very good strain relief. This is what my safety-crazy electrician uncle taught me. You make a loop in a cable and secure it with rubber tape so that ends go oposite ways. Then on the oposite side of the tape you can splice and do anything. If you try to pull it apart, you need to overcome force of that tape in a way that it's really strong. Try it yourself :)
Hi,
i just found this famos chanal.
Super !
But my english is to Bad.
I understand nearly 5% but it tells a lot ideas.
Thanks so much! Very informative, especially the waterproofing and connection to an external switch! I would love to see the setup you have at your shop if/when I visit Australia!!
Hello, i accidently killed the waterproof sensor and its not working anymore. I bought DHT21 but now first the cable has 3 lines and when i connect it shows temperature and humidity 0.1 degree and 0.1 humidity :( what am i doing wrong ?
Indeed, SONOFF is making the hardware the most of us were developing for our home automation. I just got today my 5 S20 sonoff wall sockets. I was making them myself, but really for the prices they offer them it is not worth the time.
My next project somewhere this week is indeed trying to get the I2C bus running on a SONOFF to use a PCF8574Module so will get another 8 (or max 64) IO's. Keep up the good work. Really interesting.
i think it's in peter scargill's firmware already... tech.scargill.net
Although I am an engineer myself, I learned a lot of things. Hats of for the clear explanations. Subbed the channel :-)
You need a neutral line with the live ( Hot ) line for the smart switch to work
Not necessarily through the switch though. As long as your neutral return is to the main box then OK it will still work. I think sonoff instructions indicate both the methods. The UK standard is to wire both neutral and live through the switch and importantly with an Earth connection as well if both in and out wires have one. Earth is very important for safety especially if your main box has RCD protection as the power will trip long before a fuse will blow. The section he talks about earth/IP ratings and protective boxes is really good. I will often prototype a system with everything exposed and open to check it all works but before putting anything in service will sort the earth/casing/glands etc.. and check the earth as well.
Jonathan, some nice stuff and tidy wiring but: rewiring the standard light switch to control the sonoff will, one day, persuade an unfortunate electrician that he has isolated the circuit (because he thinks he's switched it "off"). Very scary! Perhaps you could add a warning over your video?
That's why I say to never use mains cable for the control signal between the light switch and the Sonoff. I'm doing a follow-up video where I talk about this in more detail, demonstrating how to wire Sonoffs in different configurations including 2-way switches, etc :-)
"I could spend an entire episode just going through TASMOTA and things that it can do" - Please do, that would be great!!
Really enjoyed this episode.
I'll add it to my list! I have so many topics I want to cover, and not enough time :-(
I really appreciate your videos, in-sight and technical knowledge.
Would you please add info on the names of components and if possible list Internet/EBay sources.
Very important! There is always everywhere a chance of MAINS power on all the parts when it's connected. So please isolate everything and yourselves!!! these sonoffs are powered by rectifying mains, very dangerous.
Please make more videos on latest IOT products
What changes are need for the switch to work on GPIO14 ?
So that the switch toggles the relay/light as shown in the video above ?
As far as I understand it it should be possible on the stock firmware
Yes, that's correct. The stock firmware uses the button to toggle the output (and also to put it into pairing mode) so you don't need to install any different firmware for that. It's also supported by TASMOTA.
OK, but which firmware has to be uploaded to use GPIO14 and GND trick with latch switch? Tried this today on my Sonoff with stock firmware and doesn't seem to be working. Connecting and disconnecting GPIO14 and GND doesn't change the device state
I received mine today and also does not work using GPIO14 and GND trick with stock firmware.
Unfortunately it won't work on stock firmware. You need to upload other firmware but then you can't control this device with Itead cloud via phone app :(
how can i extract the vcc value for example and display it on my mqtt dashboard.. ?
16:41:11 MQT: tele/myhousehouse/STATE = {"Time":"2018-02-09T16:41:11","Uptime":3,"Vcc":3.230,"POWER1":"OFF","POWER2":"OFF","Wifi":{"AP":1,"SSId":,"RSSI":86,"APMac":}}
+SuperHouseTV Most awesome collection of tips. I normally have a short attention span on videos but was glued to the screen for the entire 40+ minutes and then jumped to the blog post for more. Thanks!
Thanks Brian! I want to make shorter videos, but somehow they just seem to keep getting longer.
@@SuperHouseTV Love the 'long' video. Your thorough approach saved me precious time.
The world's best teacher
Thanks for a great Sonoff tutorial and as a bonus - teaching me how to remove board components!
Add my vote for your doing specific Tasmoto session too.
SONOFF mini doesn`t have the GPIO14.
25:45 - Switch
: How can we do this in SONOFF MINI?
Same thing in Sonoff 4ch Pro. It doesn't have that 'socket' for GPIO14. Is there a way to do this in Sonoff 4ch Pro too?
Hey Ariel,
This might solve your problem: ua-cam.com/video/6ez64v_NeM4/v-deo.html
But how to do this in Sonoff 4ch Pro?
"I would have this on the cable first". Who has not had to say that!
🖤|^
😹😹😹💖🍻?
😹😹😹💖🍻?
😹😹😹💖🍻?
Great video thank you. I have one suggestion that may appeal to the OCD crowd. I would write the code so that when you change the state of the physical light switch the status of the sonoff is changed (or unchanged) to match the light switch. Only during the status change does the light switch obtain light control, you may have to switch if off and then back on again to turn the light on, but the switch will then match the operation, Not a big deal, but again, it may appeal to those that want the wall switch to only work as normal positions.
Sure, you can do it that way. Personally I think more people would find it confusing, because if the light switch is in a state that's out of sync with the light, when someone flips it nothing will happen. They will probably think it's broken or they used the wrong switch, or flip it multiple times to figure out what's going on. I think it would be less confusing if every movement of the switch changed the state of the light so there is always immediate feedback that your action has caused some event.
@@SuperHouseTV I agree. A three-way switch works that way. The feedback from a light eliminates any confusion. A device with no feedback would be another story.
Do these have any Australian safety certification ? no electrician will install it without one and it's illegal to do it yourself as I understand it and more importantly your house insurance could be voided if you did it yourself. (This assumes installing it in the wall)
You can use slamphers with plug-to-socket converters w/o hard-wiring.
Ask Sonoff.... I'll bet my left & right nut every house in Australia has dozens of of items that doesn't satisfy the NCC or Australian standards
www.itead.cc/wiki/images/f/f7/CE_Certificate_for_Sonoff_Series.pdf
RavenPrecept it sure is the SAFEST place on Earth
who cares about australians :D
I like the way you break down the pin options and do the real time illustration, and the neat trick turning the on and off toggle into a three way switching circuit between the device, toggle, and phone.
The biggest problem with using these as a drop-in replacement for a light switch, is that many if not most light switches don't have both an active and neutral wire available.
FlyJemson yeah in my country this is the case too, only have a live wire...
I've seen this many times, too. I gave a detailed solution in my reply to Alru Waldeck's comment, but perhaps I should do a video or blog post about it. The problem is common enough that it catches many people out.
This comment is incorrect. Disregard. He's seeing two wires connected to the switch and not realizing that they are power in and power to the load.
No you don't. You have the live wire to and from the switch, BUT the neutral goes to the light fitting. This device does not connect "at the switch", it is connected elsewhere in the light circuit so that BOTH live and neutral pass thought the Sonoff device.
what is the reference of the chip you changed on the sonoff ?
is it W25Q32BVSSIG ? there are chips with 64 Mb too (W25Q64FWSSIQ)
for tasmota, what is the minimum size you need to flash ?
thanks
This is one of my ho,me lamps using Sonoff S20 upgraded with i4things example - feel free to switch it ON or OFF :) it actually goes On or OFF :)
www.b2net.net/wimbledon/me_l.html
example : github.com/i4things/NodeAPI/tree/master/examples/ESP8266-01/1CH_RELAY/thing
Great overview! Sonoff-Tasmota is by far the best choice here. The documentation was a bit lagging behind but me and others have fixed that in the last couple of days. Check the openHAB integration article: github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/wiki/openHAB
Very helpful documentation, and the idea of triggering a firmware update out of the OpenHAB UI is brilliant.
He really just soldered that chip easy like that? When I try to do it, my house ends up on fire.
hello, loved your videos and helped me understand about Sonoff devices set up. I have a quick question. how do you add an external switch to Sonoff POW R2? I'm not sure where to solder the wires, I have IO5, IO4, GND, TX, RX and
Six Sonoff Secrets Switches sonoff th16 u r telling we can add switch using 2.5mm switch which part has to solder on to 2.5mm as we have 4 parts on that
Sir very good explane please tell me how can I add rf 433 module in sonoff switch
Sir can I install CR2025 or CR2032 cell in SONOFF RFR2 or sonoff powr2 switch for standby
resolved most of the problems I was facing to synchronize WiFi and physical switch. thanks
could you please add to the video loud and clear, the partnumber of the new flash you mount, also when you program the sonoff after the upgrade, do you use arduino ? like i do ? it could be nice to reveal the special settings needed in the auduino system, i use a wimo sketch, where i put in, wifi codes, and device name, then bingo, my Alexa discover the unit and can control it directly, with out any hazzle with plug in software and their buggy settings and configure
later sonoffs have cable clamps, but they MUST be used correctly (Clamps MUST clamp the cable outer sheath, not the insulation of the individual wires. What's shown with 2 exposed inner wires under the clamp (regardless of being insulated) is unsafe and illegal in most parts of the world - it's a very common DIY failure)
EVEN WITH THE CABLE GLANDS in the IP54 box, that kind of clamping is illegal (those glands provide insufficient cable anchoring to keep australian or NZ inspectors happy and the cable can be pulled out of them, potentially leaving wire ends exposed outside the box
very good informative video....thanks for uploading. ...
Hello I'm trying to do as you explain but I get an error from arduino.exe (8266 error). I bought this: www.dx.com/p/ftdi-basic-program-downloader-usb-to-ttl-ft232rl-for-arduino-389456#.WTUX4mjytaQ
Can you tell me where I can find in Europe a good HiLetgo FT232RL FTDI USB to TTL Serial Converter Adapter Module?
On the terminal where there is the relay does it put 220v or just closes the contact? I'm thinking to use it with a "logic" input on the other side and i just need to close the contact... no big AC current allowed.
Hello John
I've been trying to use GPIO-14 how you explained it but it's not working at all.
Any ideas of what can be wrong?
The device is working properly and I connected it in parallel with the light switch so I I can only use wifi command when the switch is off.
Sonoff should provide a 3rd connector for the Earth wire that goes straight through so it's encouraged to reconnect a completely cut extension...
Hi @25:54, the switch that I connected to gpio14 and ground did not work, lamp does not light up, it works otherwise. Below is the switch I tried. Can you assist suggest if I am using the wrong switch or something else is missing . I am using Tasmots firmware successfully uploaded and lamp work via on board button switch and mobile, The snaps of the switch.... oi65.tinypic.com/2cwq2qp.jpg
oi67.tinypic.com/2926tq8.jpg
Please assist .. thnx
512 KB is "tight" ? WTF? We made great computer games with 16, 48 and 64K in the ZX-Spectrum and Commodore 64 days. The problem is how the code is compiled and linked. Loads of irrelevant code is imported into your final application. If machine code is used instead, it's possible to save 2-3 orders of magnitude of code. Really.
I just bought 4 SonOff basic. I am going to order the TH16, I did not even know of it. I am also looking at the Sonoff 4CH Pro - 4 Gang Inching/Self-Locking/Interlock WiFi RF Smart Switch For DIY Smart Home,Compatible with Alexa I if I can add a DHT22 to this then it will be great add on. Even if I can't add it My ESP8266 can do it and then use that to change the states of the relays. All to control my Swamp cooler next summer. Right now no so much as it is 29 F degrees -1.7 C here now. Thanks
Lee
Hi, I received my Sonoff today and also does not work using GPIO14 and GND trick with stock firmware. What is wrong with firmware? Might a new firmware have no function on GPIO14? (I did not configure to my wi-fi network) just connect and experienced with a bulb.
Hi bro , I need yours help, I’m using sonoff basic , before I purchase and pairing with my old WiFi modem>2 band WiFi booster already using few month , and today I’m upgrade new modem and new 2 band WiFi booster . The problem is coming , I can’t pairing with my sonoff device , I have try delete and re download my eWeLink apps , I’m also trying connect AP mode , and type with a default password 12345678 , but waiting loading few minute is become fail. Could I know what’s is the problem ?
Hi there, only for curiosity... which firmware are you using to plug GPIO14 and use it with a normal switch? I usually flash sonoffs with ESPurna, but it seems that when I bridge GPIO14 and GND nothing happens...
This is a crapy device. I bought it and connected and it worked for 10 minutes and after that the relay seems to be on,the app I see that the switch is on, but the actual output light is off.So it is working as its name stands SONOFF. This is a typical example of a "Made in China". Beware of buying this and using in your home systems. Well, I say it needs either a rework or better quality inspected.But very good for $10 to have to experiment yourself but it will NEVER EVER BE A RELIABLE DEVICE AS IS.
I have seen various complaints about this and myself floated a compliant but no response so far.
It is up to you guys whether you want to throw away the money for junk or buy reliable and working ones.
So for the trick with the switch we need tasmota fw;
The sonoff switches do not fit in standard US electrical boxes. The ESP8### switching seems robust but mounting and electrical connections are horrible. Why can’t they make a 3rd contact to carry ground ? Additionally I worry that they may not be UL approved and affect my insurance if a fire occurs. I’m a huge fan of the ESP line and have 20 years of experience in electronics. I code C++ and have made high current shunt based DC monitors etc... unfortunately ( my remorse is real ) I can’t feel comfortable using sonoff devices. ☹️
Köszönöm! Danke schön! This is an excellent video! Congratulation from Hungary and Germany as well.
excellent video Jonahatan, may I ask the code id/vendor of the 8MB replacing flash memory ? One more thing: I didn't understand what is the additional blue wiring from memory to Esp8266 chip is for. Can you help me? Thanks a lot in advance. Best Regards
Great video thanks. But what complete plonker decided that the "normal" ground of a 2.5 or 3.5mm plug should be moved from the shroud to a ring and replace it with 3v3 on the shroud? Doh! That's a shorting disaster waiting to happen! WHY? the ground on EVERY other jack plug on the planet is to the shroud (for obvious reasons) so is there a NOT so obvious, valid reason for someone doing this? Doh!
SuperHouseTv: For manual switch, I rewire the NClosed contact instead of Nopend contact from Relay to output. Wire your Line -> Manual switch -> Input supply Sonoff. So when power on light on, power off light off. But inverse action on app button, you should off button to light on.
Simply genial! I would replicate the switch override with a Sonoff TH10 using a TRRS connector. Please, could you post the TRRS pin wiring? Also, do you suggest to wire the ground to the TH10 or bypass it like in your video? Many thanks!
Hello. Seems to be great ! I would like to add a normal light switch without flashing firmware. I understand it could be possible earing this video (connecting the wall switch to GND and GPIO14). Right ? really without flashing firmware ? thank you
Wow! Just learning about Sonoff devices. thanks for the video. Can I ask for something? Is it possible to connect and control 5 or more LED bulbs with Basic R2 Wifi smart switch? I am also looking for a dimmer control. Sorry, if it's a dumb question.
Thank you for this video, just started buying Sonoff equipment. I will see if you have later information, as I see my BasicR2 has a different internals. At this stage not looking at a big project, just lights and power control using the BasicR2 and MiniR2, also ordered a NSPanel to play with.
No, thanks. I prefer wiring the bits and sensors up as and when I need them. I built a battery case and put in an Arduino with ethernet to monitor and report on current in and out, battery voltage, temperature and smoke detector (which seemed like a good idea!) and also can emergency disconnect should the need arise. My backup camera (RPi) also transmits from 3 PIR detectors (a 4th on the front gives 360 degrees coverage). The RGB LED lights also have PIRs to turn on and off as required. That's the kind of flexibility I like.
Normal compression glands are NOT submersible. Silicon also doesn't work. You MUST use appropriately rated enclosures. As you said, that box will probably be ok for a bit of light rain or splashes, but that is all. I've spent the past 25+ years installing electrical equipment outside, water will find its way anywhere.
The basic sonoff switch says it will handle 9 amps but it won't for long. Here's a video of the automation of pumps and air blower in my koi pond controlled by sonoff but using contactors to bring in 9 or 10 amp pumps. Been working perfect for over 6 months now. ua-cam.com/video/xJ9LNjc0f3M/v-deo.html
Awesome!! Im not using sonoffs but a couple of ESP with i/o extender for switching the relays in my house and also to read the switches states. I was wasting to much time with trying to find some suitable momentary switches for the house :D
Can you give part numbers with sizes of eproms that can be used to upgrade these? Maybe even recommend a supplier? Also I would love a simple ESP8266 circuit that could control a sonoff over my wifi, so I could have a (or a few) simple remote switches. ... great videos !!
You have a new subscriber. Good work. On memory, how about a SOT to 0.1" socket then a reverse adapter? Then swap chips as things change.
Works for me on these low speed imbedded systems. I find these parts on eBay but none of the Chinese sites seem to have them or I can't figure out what they are called.
I have a small library of these with different sizes. I even do this with sensors and all sorts of SOT-3 diode and transistor packs.
Blow up your signal conditioning - no problem. Pop a new one in.
I wish I had the hands to do really big stuff (>14 pins) or even the dreaded BGAs.
Is it safe to use on my solaf water heater SR500 control panel? I want to over ride the heat button with wifi and hook the temprature sensor on gpio14 but i read that its safer to use a dry relay in between?
Very professional and GREAT video, thanks!!! You just solved the problem I'm facing for almost 2 months - connecting external switch to my Sonoff (25:55). I have a question - is it strictly sonoff related trick or this applies to any esp8266 device, e.g. Wemos modules? Thanks!
Thanks @pawel753 :-) You can do the same thing with any microcontroller. I use heaps of the Wemos D1 Minis around my house, and I love them. I've designed a few tiny shields for them which I might show in other videos.
You deserve a medal man. Thank you very very much. Learned a lot from your video. 👍🏻
hi, ive got sonoff v1.0 where 1.2 sq.mm wire is used instead of heavy solder track,i had connected a submersible pump which uses 6A,the problem is there was power surge during a rain and the input protections all got burnt like Mov, bulged 400uf cap, burnt fuse and a x2 cap.is there a way to bypass 220v and use 5v or 12v to power the device and isolate the com pin from the relay ?
Is there anything proprietary in the sonoff either in HW/SW except the eWeLink?I am curious to know.Is there anything which is patented? Can anybody emulate / simulate a similar board with ESP8266 with a different app and resell without permission from sonoff?