the reason your t-nut is sliding out with the 60 degree angle is because you need to set it further on the guiderail then you would do with the fixed 90 , that's because the t-nut slides to the front and back in order to have 2 ''fixed'' points , and the ''loose'' one is the knob at the indicator marks. you just need to push the angle stop a little further on the track and your problem is solved. i have orderd the full set but didn't receive it yet, was looking for some peoples reactions so far , by the way, there is a set screw between the t-bars on the anglestop where you attache you extention bar to calibrate the measurements. thanks for the video
No problem, NLDHGRockStar. Thanks for the tips regarding the Angle Stop and watching the video. Did you order the one with the systainer? I saw it on Tool Nut after I ordered mine. That one comes with the new rail connectors, a couple of clamps, and the plastic rail hose slide piece.
@@daddysharespace yes, I did ordered the full set, main reason was so that it is protected in a systainer so it wouldn't be damaged during transport. the clamps,bars hoseguide and stops are a bonus 😉 its the Festool Accessoire-set SYS3 M 137 FS/2-Set - 577157 comes in at around 235 euro's including tax depending on where you buy it
Nice comment NLD. I haven't bought any attachments like a parallel guide or square attachment. I have bought rule stoppers which I position on either side of a long fence for cutting long sheet goods. My setup is still a working progress. So I'm still needing to spend time setting things up and double checking.
Great in depth review. I own all Makita rails and it didn’t even occur to me that they wouldn’t be compatible. Thanks so much for the info and saving my time.
The one thing that needs to be said about the new Festool angle guide is that it is NOT a precision device, meaning that the detents have too much play in them. I would want to calibrate this everytime I mounted this on my rail or after having changed the angle from 90 degrees. It does not have the precision that the Woodpeckers angle guide has, and if it doesn't have the precision of repeatability then it's not really as useful as one would expect. You don't realize how big a difference a small bit of play makes until you get this thing in your hands and try it for yourself.
I have not used the Woodpecker version of this tool. So I can not speak on its accuracy. I believe the Festool version is best for one off cuts or for things that do not need to be closer to perfection.
Thanks for the very informative initial review! I just got the GRS16 V2, 1 snap-on adaptor and the 30/50" in rail set. I can see how the Festool angle guide with extension would be very useful with repeatable angle cuts, but honestly, I don't see doing many of those repeatable angles in my projects. The angle guide without the extension rail is probably what I'll purchase down the road, but I think the TSO parallel guides are more to my liking. Your info was great! You reassured me I made the correct choice purchasing the TSO accessories 2 weeks ago. Some of those minor issues you noted in the latter part of your vid would drive me crazy. I especially need the ability to do narrow rip cuts too.
You can slide the joining bar back towards the angle guide and this allows you cut narrower pieces. Alternatively you could cut the bar in half which will let you do the same more easily. It also allows the bar to leave the clamping notch free. Festool should have thought this out in development!
Nice review. I appreciate you spending time creating this presentation. Even using my mft table I had limitations on larger workpieces. My first thought are cutting longer pieces using this square. I would imagine cutting repetitive small pieces when you haven't yet owned an mft table may be useful for say making draws or cupboard doors that are under 900mm. If you needed to cut a 90 degree angle on a long piece I'd imagine putting a parallel guide on the other end as perhaps a little flex will occur on the aluminium fence. The reason I decided to build a slightly larger steel mft table. Oh by the way, of you look at welding videos, they make the same concept as a mft table with holes drilled in them for steel. You would have a lot stronger set up. I'm planning on building even another steel mft table to accomodate the mft and my other table. I know we can use dogs to place in holes. My purpose is to set up a ninety degree square where I put the fence on two references points without the need of always setting up my mft table where the aluminium takes a bit of setting up before it's truely square. When handling large work pieces I have to be very careful not to knock things out of true square. Particularly when I assume everything is set up, I make a cut and it's not accurate. I don't know if anyone else has come to this problem. Or is it just me? The mft table and this square set up is designed where portability and transport is the main purpose with quick set up. Also been very light. You then sacrifice strength for weight. And that could have its limitation on more heavy work pieces that need cutting. On the other hand the mft table is the right size for cross cutting as my wider mft table I built is a bit of a stretch. My steel mft table is very strong and has no movement. It also is very heavy so more a semi permanent work table opposed to the mft. Thanks for uploading.
Hello Ronald Martens. I am glad you found the overview helpful. I will have to check out the Steel MFT tops. I agree with your assessment about the form and function of the Festool MFT 3. I use my MFT 3 for smaller parts. I use a Benchdogs.co.uk fence with rail dogs to do more significant cross cuts on my 4' x 8' DIY MFT. Rail dogs seem to decrease movement, but it is not as convenient as the rail hinge. Thanks for taking the time to comment and share your experience, as I am always looking to explore new ways to get better results in the shop. Take care.
I received it last week and to be honest, I'd give it a 7/10. It's well built but the 90º angle stop either from Festool/TSO (same thing Festool being $140 and TSO $175), in conjunction with TSO's parallel guide is about $375-$425 depending on the configuration vs the Festool option $265. The shortest piece with the new angle stop is 450mm (and your extension connector bars have to butt up against the hole for the t-track... this wasn't thought out too well) and this isn't so useful. I would much rather be able to do repeat cuts less than 17" and the TSO parallel guides or the Banggood ones can do that. The whole angle thing is cool but what percentage of the time do we need this to cut at an angle and how often do we need this to do repeated angled cuts? I can think of only a few limited cases. I don't hate this... I do think it's useful but it might not be as useful as we're telling ourselves. TSO parallel guides in conjunction with the MFT probably solves nearly everything this can do and more. Ultimately, I might be returning this in favor of an MFT table. I appreciate that you're the first person to do an in-depth review on this since there aren't any out there. (though time stamps would be helpful since it's a longer video -- not a criticism but maybe a future suggestion? I just don't want to sound like one of those annoying guys) Anyways, I'm now a subscriber.
Hello, Aaron G. Based upon my initial impressions, I can see the 7/10 rating. I am looking forward to comparing the Festool Angle Stop with the TSO parallel guides to see if it is an adequate replacement for 22 to 44-inch cuts. If your build is within those dimensions, this could be a cheaper alternative when compared with the TSO parallel guide setup. Woodpeckers angle stop is over $370.00, and I do not believe it includes an extension addon. The Festool Angle Stop is an adequate and reasonably priced alternative comparable with TSO and Benchdogs rail guide options if you own Festool rails. The angle functionality may be niche, but one advantage that it would have over a conventional MFT 3 is cut capacity. I agree that this is more than likely a limited use case. I like my MFT 3, and I would not get rid of it. That being said, I am looking into both DashBoard and Bench Dogs solutions for the rail hinge functionality. My home-built MFT offers more flexibility for larger pieces. Admittedly, you are the second person who has recommended chapters/ time stamps. I am relatively new at this UA-cam/ Video editing thing, so it is taking me some time to put on the polish and streamline. Your words have not fallen on deaf ears. I appreciate the critique and look forward to any other tips that you may have to offer in the future. Thanks for taking the time to watch the video, offering valuable feedback, and subscribing. Stay safe and be well.
@@daddysharespace You're doing better at UA-cam than I am so I have no room to critique and complain. There's a lot of useful information packed into this review so it would be helpful... if you're able to do it, but otherwise, it's not a big deal. But back to the Angle Stop... The Woodpeckers' angle stop is something that I've never seen in a build video and I'm curious if it's something that is even really desired by woodworkers even if the price were $100-$150 cheaper. I'm not experienced enough to say too much but I'm going to guess that repeated angle cuts is a limited use case. A longer rail on the MFT would encompass that need and where would the angle stop w/ extension realistically go that the MFT couldn't? The TSO parallel guide is such an elegant solution. With their Festool version of their 90º angle stop, we're at $385-$485 which yes, is more expensive than $265 but which is the better value? Well, we have a system that can work with Makita OR Festool (I have the Festool) and the rods go on TOP of the piece rather than next to it so we can cut thinner stock and not have to worry about having the workpiece off the table. We can make longer and shorter cuts than the 17"-45" (2.64x) range... we have 7"-50" range (7.14x) significantly more. I think we get more for our money with the TSO. Where do you think this is more capable than the MFT if there is any advantage?
I cannot say that I have seen many non-advertisement videos with Woodpecker tools, so I get your point. That, however, could be my particular UA-cam feed. The Festool MFT 3, with a list price of $775.00, is a valuable tool, but it has limitations. It is more expensive than the Festool Angle Stop, and it is less portable by weight. The supported cut depth of the Festool MFT3 is 24 5/16 with the fence in the low position and 25 9/16 in the high/ vertical position. It barely covers the average countertop, 24-25.5 inches deep. I can not speak for others, but my personal experience is that the Festool MFT 3 alone is better suited for smaller projects. The MFT tabletop size is 28 5/16 deep by 43 5/16 wide. Countertops can be up to 150 inches long. The prices soar if you have to purchase a second or third MFT at $259.00 for the extension or $675.00 for the vanilla MFT. You could use the angle stop on the ground if you needed to with a simple wasteboard. I am in the process of making shop furniture to hold my tools. My Sander/Jointer stand is 33 1/2 inches deep. My table saw cabinet build is 33 3/4 inches deep, lawn equipment holder and storage container holder are all over 33 1/2 inches deep. I make quirky things as I experiment. My builds highlight the detail Festool has baked into their products to make conventional furniture that adheres to standard sizes. Squaring the MFT 3 is not difficult, but many people, including myself, use products like the PTR-18 PLUS Precision Triangle, which range in price from $189.00 and go up to $394.95 for the MTR 18 version. These are all added costs that the Angle Stop does not have. Thanks for the debate, Aaron G. it is refreshing to talk shop with someone that is not too advanced for my novice level but also knowledgeable of the topic. Take care.
Points noted however, it would be very easy to fix a spacer piece onto the extension stop to allow cutting narrow strips ( theoretically down to zero) as one does on the Kapex to make repeated cuts at less than 400mm length.
I purchased the angle stop kit a month ago, but didn't get the extension. I ended up just buying it today. I don't have the TSO parallel guides, but was debating between getting this extension or needed to pay even more for the TSO guides and square. Could the angle stop with extension take the place of the parallel guides for repeatable measured cuts? Thanks!
In theory yes but I believe there are some caveats. This is a good question. I think I will make a video to share my thoughts which can hopefully provide a little more detail.
TSO and Festool squares are the same price and TSO is limited to a 90 degree cut. They both are currently 189 and tax. I'll go Festool on this no-brainer.
The TSO parallel guide can be attached to the GRS-16 to do the same thing for 90 degree cuts. Alternatively, you only actually need one parallel guide along with the GRS-16 to guarantee straight and right angle assuming your board starts correctly. If it is out of square to start you will not be able to have all three things touching (either the GRS-16 will be skewed to have both parallel guides touching or you will have a right angle to the reference side and one of the two parallel guides will touch)
great review!really interesting. my hearing isnt perfect so it would be great if you could edit volume just a little l,ouder.i am a prime examole of why you should always wear hearing protection., thanks, john from wiltshire england.
Thanks, John, AKA Heatweasal. I appreciate the compliment and your taking the time to watch the video. I have only been at this UA-cam thing for just over a year. There is a ton to learn. I hope to get better at editing, sound, and videography, but it is going to take time as I do not have as much time as I would like to improve at a faster rate. I also need to be more consistent about wearing my hearing protection in the shop.
I bought one but find that it is very inaccurate. I check the angles with a proper combination square each time I change these angles and it is way off!! In my opinion this is a big waste of money. Rather spend more money and buy yourself a TSO or Woodpeckers. I did and I don't regret it.
For 90-degree cuts, I use the TSO GRS 16 PE or the Festool FS WA. I do understand your perspective on the Festool FS WA. Wood Peckers' adjustable track square is intriguing. The price difference makes me expect more from the Wood Pecker option. I have not tried it, so I cannot attest to Wood Pecker's option. The Festool FS WA can be helpful for one-off angle cuts that do not require supreme accuracy. An example I have in mind is if you were cutting a piece of flooring for a room with a unique non-ninety-degree angle. You could get close with the FS WA and conceal any imperfections with baseboard trim. That may not be acceptable for many professionals, but a DIYer may find this option acceptable. If you only have a track saw and want to avoid investing in a miter saw, this is also an option versus purchasing a more expensive miter saw, that may also be inaccurate. It may not be worth the price to some, but it is an option. Thanks for taking the time to watch the video and comment.
Hello Ryan Curtis. Thanks for the comment. I can't speak on the Kreg system because I don't own it. The upper T-track on the Festool rail is 16mm wide. The Festool FS-WA's working channel is 19mm wide. The upper T-track on the Makita guide rail is 19mm wide due to the anti-tip lip. This creates a metal-on-metal friction fit. This is not the case with the Festool rail, as it does not have the added 3mm anti-tip lip. It seems that Festool designed this to work with their rail as it will not cause any kind of friction when attaching it to the rail.
Thanks for taking the time, Tsz2g4f. The Festool MFT is a mobile solution; however, the Festool Angle stop takes the mobility crown. I am still working out the kinks in my workflow. When I am working on a project, all flat surfaces disappear. This includes the surface of my MFT. The angle stop allows me to cut similar angles on the floor or outside the shop without having to clear surface areas. I do not do this kind of work for a living. Having a full-time job in a completely different field reduces my time in the shop, so I am constantly looking for time-saving methods that may not save money upfront but save time which many people say is "money" over the long haul. A secondary reason for the angle stop is that I was looking to purchase a second TSO guide rail square so that I would not always have to move it from one rail to another on a project. When the Festool angle stop was released, I saw it as an opportunity to have multiple functions from a similar tool. I thought it was a win-win. Thanks again for the question and for taking the time to view the video.
The Festool has its strengths. Angles and repeatable cuts being among them. If I want a simple 90 degree cut I am reaching for the TSO or the Festool branded equivalent. It is simplistic and requires zero calibration. The newer version of the Festool rail square offers nice bells and whistles at the expense of simplicity. In the end I believe it is a niche device.
@@daddysharespace Right on. I was very excited to see it's kind've been in the back of my head all this time. It was in my shopping cart but I think I'm going to purchase the TSO square as you can also attach your guide rails to it. As for the angle cuts, that was something I do randomly but I think money is better spent on adding the TSO triangle to your kit. The price point is now way over Festool's version but I think their triangle has a lot more features for squaring up tools, cabinets, and angle cuts all built in. Thanks!
Hello Roeland De Vries. No, the new Festool angle stop does not work with a Makita rail. You would have to go with either Benchdogs.co.uk or TSO products offerings.
Nice clear explanations. Thanks
No problem. Thanks for the compliment and checking out the video.
the reason your t-nut is sliding out with the 60 degree angle is because you need to set it further on the guiderail then you would do with the fixed 90 , that's because the t-nut slides to the front and back in order to have 2 ''fixed'' points , and the ''loose'' one is the knob at the indicator marks. you just need to push the angle stop a little further on the track and your problem is solved. i have orderd the full set but didn't receive it yet, was looking for some peoples reactions so far , by the way, there is a set screw between the t-bars on the anglestop where you attache you extention bar to calibrate the measurements. thanks for the video
No problem, NLDHGRockStar. Thanks for the tips regarding the Angle Stop and watching the video. Did you order the one with the systainer? I saw it on Tool Nut after I ordered mine. That one comes with the new rail connectors, a couple of clamps, and the plastic rail hose slide piece.
@@daddysharespace yes, I did ordered the full set, main reason was so that it is protected in a systainer so it wouldn't be damaged during transport. the clamps,bars hoseguide and stops are a bonus 😉 its the Festool Accessoire-set SYS3 M 137 FS/2-Set - 577157 comes in at around 235 euro's including tax depending on where you buy it
Nice comment NLD.
I haven't bought any attachments like a parallel guide or square attachment.
I have bought rule stoppers which I position on either side of a long fence for cutting long sheet goods.
My setup is still a working progress. So I'm still needing to spend time setting things up and double checking.
Great in depth review. I own all Makita rails and it didn’t even occur to me that they wouldn’t be compatible. Thanks so much for the info and saving my time.
Thanks for taking the time to look at the review, Les Bentley. I am glad it helped.
I just posted a video showing how I modified mine to work with Makita rails
You have a solid lineup of tools across three brand battery systems. That's next level stuff.
It is definitely, a lot of tools. I have to figure out how to keep them all charged.
The one thing that needs to be said about the new Festool angle guide is that it is NOT a precision device, meaning that the detents have too much play in them. I would want to calibrate this everytime I mounted this on my rail or after having changed the angle from 90 degrees. It does not have the precision that the Woodpeckers angle guide has, and if it doesn't have the precision of repeatability then it's not really as useful as one would expect. You don't realize how big a difference a small bit of play makes until you get this thing in your hands and try it for yourself.
I have not used the Woodpecker version of this tool. So I can not speak on its accuracy. I believe the Festool version is best for one off cuts or for things that do not need to be closer to perfection.
Thanks for the very informative initial review! I just got the GRS16 V2, 1 snap-on adaptor and the 30/50" in rail set. I can see how the Festool angle guide with extension would be very useful with repeatable angle cuts, but honestly, I don't see doing many of those repeatable angles in my projects. The angle guide without the extension rail is probably what I'll purchase down the road, but I think the TSO parallel guides are more to my liking. Your info was great! You reassured me I made the correct choice purchasing the TSO accessories 2 weeks ago. Some of those minor issues you noted in the latter part of your vid would drive me crazy. I especially need the ability to do narrow rip cuts too.
I am glad you found the video helpful. Thanks for taking the time to watch the video.
The best review currently available.
Thanks
Thanks for the compliment dzacace1. I appreciate it.
You can slide the joining bar back towards the angle guide and this allows you cut narrower pieces. Alternatively you could cut the bar in half which will let you do the same more easily. It also allows the bar to leave the clamping notch free. Festool should have thought this out in development!
I see what you mean Michael Blackmore. Thanks for the insight as I did not consider cutting the connection bar.
Nice review. I appreciate you spending time creating this presentation.
Even using my mft table I had limitations on larger workpieces. My first thought are cutting longer pieces using this square.
I would imagine cutting repetitive small pieces when you haven't yet owned an mft table may be useful for say making draws or cupboard doors that are under 900mm.
If you needed to cut a 90 degree angle on a long piece I'd imagine putting a parallel guide on the other end as perhaps a little flex will occur on the aluminium fence.
The reason I decided to build a slightly larger steel mft table.
Oh by the way, of you look at welding videos, they make the same concept as a mft table with holes drilled in them for steel.
You would have a lot stronger set up.
I'm planning on building even another steel mft table to accomodate the mft and my other table.
I know we can use dogs to place in holes.
My purpose is to set up a ninety degree square where I put the fence on two references points without the need of always setting up my mft table where the aluminium takes a bit of setting up before it's truely square.
When handling large work pieces I have to be very careful not to knock things out of true square.
Particularly when I assume everything is set up, I make a cut and it's not accurate.
I don't know if anyone else has come to this problem. Or is it just me?
The mft table and this square set up is designed where portability and transport is the main purpose with quick set up. Also been very light.
You then sacrifice strength for weight.
And that could have its limitation on more heavy work pieces that need cutting.
On the other hand the mft table is the right size for cross cutting as my wider mft table I built is a bit of a stretch.
My steel mft table is very strong and has no movement. It also is very heavy so more a semi permanent work table opposed to the mft.
Thanks for uploading.
Hello Ronald Martens. I am glad you found the overview helpful.
I will have to check out the Steel MFT tops.
I agree with your assessment about the form and function of the Festool MFT 3. I use my MFT 3 for smaller parts. I use a Benchdogs.co.uk fence with rail dogs to do more significant cross cuts on my 4' x 8' DIY MFT. Rail dogs seem to decrease movement, but it is not as convenient as the rail hinge.
Thanks for taking the time to comment and share your experience, as I am always looking to explore new ways to get better results in the shop.
Take care.
I received it last week and to be honest, I'd give it a 7/10. It's well built but the 90º angle stop either from Festool/TSO (same thing Festool being $140 and TSO $175), in conjunction with TSO's parallel guide is about $375-$425 depending on the configuration vs the Festool option $265. The shortest piece with the new angle stop is 450mm (and your extension connector bars have to butt up against the hole for the t-track... this wasn't thought out too well) and this isn't so useful. I would much rather be able to do repeat cuts less than 17" and the TSO parallel guides or the Banggood ones can do that.
The whole angle thing is cool but what percentage of the time do we need this to cut at an angle and how often do we need this to do repeated angled cuts? I can think of only a few limited cases.
I don't hate this... I do think it's useful but it might not be as useful as we're telling ourselves. TSO parallel guides in conjunction with the MFT probably solves nearly everything this can do and more.
Ultimately, I might be returning this in favor of an MFT table.
I appreciate that you're the first person to do an in-depth review on this since there aren't any out there. (though time stamps would be helpful since it's a longer video -- not a criticism but maybe a future suggestion? I just don't want to sound like one of those annoying guys)
Anyways, I'm now a subscriber.
Hello, Aaron G. Based upon my initial impressions, I can see the 7/10 rating.
I am looking forward to comparing the Festool Angle Stop with the TSO parallel guides to see if it is an adequate replacement for 22 to 44-inch cuts. If your build is within those dimensions, this could be a cheaper alternative when compared with the TSO parallel guide setup. Woodpeckers angle stop is over $370.00, and I do not believe it includes an extension addon. The Festool Angle Stop is an adequate and reasonably priced alternative comparable with TSO and Benchdogs rail guide options if you own Festool rails.
The angle functionality may be niche, but one advantage that it would have over a conventional MFT 3 is cut capacity. I agree that this is more than likely a limited use case.
I like my MFT 3, and I would not get rid of it. That being said, I am looking into both DashBoard and Bench Dogs solutions for the rail hinge functionality. My home-built MFT offers more flexibility for larger pieces.
Admittedly, you are the second person who has recommended chapters/ time stamps. I am relatively new at this UA-cam/ Video editing thing, so it is taking me some time to put on the polish and streamline. Your words have not fallen on deaf ears. I appreciate the critique and look forward to any other tips that you may have to offer in the future.
Thanks for taking the time to watch the video, offering valuable feedback, and subscribing. Stay safe and be well.
@@daddysharespace You're doing better at UA-cam than I am so I have no room to critique and complain. There's a lot of useful information packed into this review so it would be helpful... if you're able to do it, but otherwise, it's not a big deal.
But back to the Angle Stop...
The Woodpeckers' angle stop is something that I've never seen in a build video and I'm curious if it's something that is even really desired by woodworkers even if the price were $100-$150 cheaper. I'm not experienced enough to say too much but I'm going to guess that repeated angle cuts is a limited use case. A longer rail on the MFT would encompass that need and where would the angle stop w/ extension realistically go that the MFT couldn't?
The TSO parallel guide is such an elegant solution. With their Festool version of their 90º angle stop, we're at $385-$485 which yes, is more expensive than $265 but which is the better value? Well, we have a system that can work with Makita OR Festool (I have the Festool) and the rods go on TOP of the piece rather than next to it so we can cut thinner stock and not have to worry about having the workpiece off the table. We can make longer and shorter cuts than the 17"-45" (2.64x) range... we have 7"-50" range (7.14x) significantly more. I think we get more for our money with the TSO.
Where do you think this is more capable than the MFT if there is any advantage?
I cannot say that I have seen many non-advertisement videos with Woodpecker tools, so I get your point. That, however, could be my particular UA-cam feed.
The Festool MFT 3, with a list price of $775.00, is a valuable tool, but it has limitations. It is more expensive than the Festool Angle Stop, and it is less portable by weight. The supported cut depth of the Festool MFT3 is 24 5/16 with the fence in the low position and 25 9/16 in the high/ vertical position. It barely covers the average countertop, 24-25.5 inches deep. I can not speak for others, but my personal experience is that the Festool MFT 3 alone is better suited for smaller projects. The MFT tabletop size is 28 5/16 deep by 43 5/16 wide. Countertops can be up to 150 inches long. The prices soar if you have to purchase a second or third MFT at $259.00 for the extension or $675.00 for the vanilla MFT. You could use the angle stop on the ground if you needed to with a simple wasteboard. I am in the process of making shop furniture to hold my tools. My Sander/Jointer stand is 33 1/2 inches deep. My table saw cabinet build is 33 3/4 inches deep, lawn equipment holder and storage container holder are all over 33 1/2 inches deep. I make quirky things as I experiment. My builds highlight the detail Festool has baked into their products to make conventional furniture that adheres to standard sizes.
Squaring the MFT 3 is not difficult, but many people, including myself, use products like the PTR-18 PLUS Precision Triangle, which range in price from $189.00 and go up to $394.95 for the MTR 18 version. These are all added costs that the Angle Stop does not have.
Thanks for the debate, Aaron G. it is refreshing to talk shop with someone that is not too advanced for my novice level but also knowledgeable of the topic.
Take care.
Points noted however, it would be very easy to fix a spacer piece onto the extension stop to allow cutting narrow strips ( theoretically down to zero) as one does on the Kapex to make repeated cuts at less than 400mm length.
True, Michael Blackmore.
I purchased the angle stop kit a month ago, but didn't get the extension. I ended up just buying it today. I don't have the TSO parallel guides, but was debating between getting this extension or needed to pay even more for the TSO guides and square. Could the angle stop with extension take the place of the parallel guides for repeatable measured cuts? Thanks!
In theory yes but I believe there are some caveats. This is a good question. I think I will make a video to share my thoughts which can hopefully provide a little more detail.
TSO and Festool squares are the same price and TSO is limited to a 90 degree cut. They both are currently 189 and tax.
I'll go Festool on this no-brainer.
Sound logic. Thanks for taking time to check out the video Cerberus.
I should have bought Festool Rail for my Makta saw !!!
It would come in handy if you want to use this rail square.
The TSO parallel guide can be attached to the GRS-16 to do the same thing for 90 degree cuts. Alternatively, you only actually need one parallel guide along with the GRS-16 to guarantee straight and right angle assuming your board starts correctly. If it is out of square to start you will not be able to have all three things touching (either the GRS-16 will be skewed to have both parallel guides touching or you will have a right angle to the reference side and one of the two parallel guides will touch)
I agree Reijo A.
Do you actually use the clamps though on a day to day basis. Surely theyd slow you down?
No not that often.
@daddysharespace I bought the rail and the bevel thing this morning after watching this vid aha.
Nice 👍🏾
great review!really interesting.
my hearing isnt perfect so it would be great if you could edit volume just a little l,ouder.i am a prime examole of why you should always wear hearing protection.,
thanks, john from wiltshire england.
not as quiet as i thought,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,the volume on my laptop had gone down on its own[ghost in the machine].
Thanks, John, AKA Heatweasal. I appreciate the compliment and your taking the time to watch the video. I have only been at this UA-cam thing for just over a year. There is a ton to learn. I hope to get better at editing, sound, and videography, but it is going to take time as I do not have as much time as I would like to improve at a faster rate.
I also need to be more consistent about wearing my hearing protection in the shop.
I bought one but find that it is very inaccurate. I check the angles with a proper combination square each time I change these angles and it is way off!! In my opinion this is a big waste of money.
Rather spend more money and buy yourself a TSO or Woodpeckers. I did and I don't regret it.
For 90-degree cuts, I use the TSO GRS 16 PE or the Festool FS WA. I do understand your perspective on the Festool FS WA. Wood Peckers' adjustable track square is intriguing. The price difference makes me expect more from the Wood Pecker option. I have not tried it, so I cannot attest to Wood Pecker's option. The Festool FS WA can be helpful for one-off angle cuts that do not require supreme accuracy. An example I have in mind is if you were cutting a piece of flooring for a room with a unique non-ninety-degree angle. You could get close with the FS WA and conceal any imperfections with baseboard trim. That may not be acceptable for many professionals, but a DIYer may find this option acceptable. If you only have a track saw and want to avoid investing in a miter saw, this is also an option versus purchasing a more expensive miter saw, that may also be inaccurate. It may not be worth the price to some, but it is an option. Thanks for taking the time to watch the video and comment.
This WILL work with the Makita guide rail. It will also work with the Kreg guide rail as well
Hello Ryan Curtis. Thanks for the comment. I can't speak on the Kreg system because I don't own it. The upper T-track on the Festool rail is 16mm wide. The Festool FS-WA's working channel is 19mm wide. The upper T-track on the Makita guide rail is 19mm wide due to the anti-tip lip. This creates a metal-on-metal friction fit. This is not the case with the Festool rail, as it does not have the added 3mm anti-tip lip. It seems that Festool designed this to work with their rail as it will not cause any kind of friction when attaching it to the rail.
@Daddy Share Space Yea absolutely I agree. I will just speak from experience that it will indeed work on the Kreg rail and the Makita rail
do you think there is any benefit to having the angle stop and extension piece if you already have an MFT? i have one and noticed you have one too
Thanks for taking the time, Tsz2g4f. The Festool MFT is a mobile solution; however, the Festool Angle stop takes the mobility crown. I am still working out the kinks in my workflow. When I am working on a project, all flat surfaces disappear. This includes the surface of my MFT. The angle stop allows me to cut similar angles on the floor or outside the shop without having to clear surface areas.
I do not do this kind of work for a living. Having a full-time job in a completely different field reduces my time in the shop, so I am constantly looking for time-saving methods that may not save money upfront but save time which many people say is "money" over the long haul.
A secondary reason for the angle stop is that I was looking to purchase a second TSO guide rail square so that I would not always have to move it from one rail to another on a project. When the Festool angle stop was released, I saw it as an opportunity to have multiple functions from a similar tool. I thought it was a win-win.
Thanks again for the question and for taking the time to view the video.
How do you feel about the festool version vs the TSO a year later?
The Festool has its strengths. Angles and repeatable cuts being among them. If I want a simple 90 degree cut I am reaching for the TSO or the Festool branded equivalent. It is simplistic and requires zero calibration. The newer version of the Festool rail square offers nice bells and whistles at the expense of simplicity. In the end I believe it is a niche device.
@@daddysharespace Right on. I was very excited to see it's kind've been in the back of my head all this time. It was in my shopping cart but I think I'm going to purchase the TSO square as you can also attach your guide rails to it. As for the angle cuts, that was something I do randomly but I think money is better spent on adding the TSO triangle to your kit. The price point is now way over Festool's version but I think their triangle has a lot more features for squaring up tools, cabinets, and angle cuts all built in. Thanks!
Is this compatible white a Makita track?
Hello Roeland De Vries. No, the new Festool angle stop does not work with a Makita rail. You would have to go with either Benchdogs.co.uk or TSO products offerings.
In this video, looks like you can use only one connecting bar to get shorter cut width?
ua-cam.com/video/SQrMCGny0Xk/v-deo.html
Hello, Elvis Lee. It does appear to work that away in the video. I will have to try it to see if that is the case. Thanks for sharing.