Great info and thanks for your tips and input. I’ve also had good luck with the CB cheater cam, great upgrade from stock and helps build torque and HP.
can get round about jetting numbers for air cooled website. every engine is different though. depending on side. nomal 1600 DP with stock compression is around 30 to 35 main and 55 idle and mid. but you need to tune it and drive it and probably change it up or down. sometimes you need to loosen and pein the idle jet. it is not cookie cutter.
Mike I guess i calling the stock 1600 where I went with the PICT30 from your friends from Carcraft my bullet proof motor for my 63. I live in farm country so driving maybe a highway only at speeds of 55 or 60 for around 12 mile to the next town where I work. Most of the time it is only me and a John Deer tractor going down the highway and yes I can pass a deer. On a cool tin is that one without the flaps and therm. ???
I will put a pinned comment with some of the parts I am referring to thanks for asking. I love my empi carb it works so good idles so smooth now. almost cant hear the engine.
I will put a pinned comment with some of the parts I am referring to thanks for asking. I love my empi carb it works so good idles so smooth now. almost cant hear the engine.
Using off the shelf AA and similar big valve heads on a 1600 displacement dont give you squat, except for a little more rpm power on the cost of lower rpm driveability. DONT do that, Especially not if you reuse astock intake and stock heaterboxes. It will only give you less lower rpm torque and elevated head temperatures on the freeway. The reason to why a stock valved engine with stock CR and say a W100 cam may run cooler on the freeway is because you have actually DECREASED the effective DCR at the given rpm. You may have more rpm power, but you lost some torque. Its the old Berg doctrine all over again, and it STILL doesnt work. If you want to make real power you need to make the engine more efficient, not just add rpm to it. If you want to keep the CR low (stock) go for a W90 cam if it has to be Engle. The W series is advanced 3-4 degrees in the grind, so with the W90 you basicly keep the stock DCR, but add a little power all the way up to the peak. Using say a W100 will make the engine loose power up to about 3000 rpm and from thereon up to about 4500 it will gain hp, but very little torque. Jawbreaker is right with the 2280 cam, - as long as the engine gets a little more CR. 8,3 -8,5 is the sweet spot for it. Also, if you want to make these engines run cooler, stop using those stupid 009´s and get yourself a proper SVDA distributor that matches the carb. We - are - living in the year 2022. I can´t believe that "engine builders" still recommend to use the 009 on almost anything. You have quite an audience. How about teaching them someting new instead of repeating the same old BS that has been the norm for the last 30 years. Then your viewers can actually get a chance to build themselves a nice functionable engine instead of keep throwing good money after bad. Theoreticly I perhaps ougth to do it myself, but I do not have the time for it, nor the skills to film and edit such a video. End of rant.
@@ICU2HI Thuth is always taken ill. Especially if you are proven wrong. All you have to do is test it, on a calibrated dyno, and the numbers will show you whats going on.
Would you recommend a particular engine size for long trips and hill climbs in a bus? I'm thinking about either a 1776 or just rebuilding my stock 1600. It looks to me like anything bigger might make hill climbs much more respectable but you come across too many issues, heating, pcv and no longevity
Hello , thanks for the vid , great info. I actually have a 1600 Stcok and I am planning on buying slip in AA P&C 88.0 that goes up to 1700cc, would I get any more power really , if I don't do anything else to the engine ? , Do I need some extra cooling because of the thinner cylinder walls getting hot ? , Thanks so much .
You are lucky to live where you are. You can go to Carcraft and buy direct. Here in Corpus it costed over 150 bucks to get my last bunch of parts - case , crank , fan, then all the small parts- bearings stuff like that.
Mike, Got a question is it possible to install a 6 volt 180 flywheel on a 1600 single port. It's a 40 hp replacement engine. Love your content regarding vw's. Thanks Chris.
Many many VW enthusiasts believe they are experts without the knowledge to give advice , I do respect an opinion when it is communicated at the beginning to be an opinion ! There still are some Experts around from the late '60s , they mostly agree that they are still learning. no offense !
good luck finding a real Berg crank. THey are mostly gone. or Okasa (REAL ONE) THere is a crank you can buy for 3000. that is good. WHO CAN AFFORD THAT.....
@@VWLifeVW I always like to run heater boxes and still run the cool tin they go under the cylinders and have metered holes that control the air around the cylinders. Replaces the plates between the cylinders. puts more air through the head. We are averaging a huge difference in head temp with those installed. I put up a link on the description.
cool tin link at carcraft do not buy chrome black only carcraftstore.com/cylindersupercooltin.aspx aa barrel kit carcraftstore.com/pistonkits855-94mm.aspx best 69 crankshaft carcraftstore.com/chromolycounterweightedcrankshafts.aspx
How can I find out what parts fit my 1994 VW Mexican Beetle? I have a hard time finding parts for it. Local auto part store, can never help me find the correct parts.
I'm far from being an expert but if it's engine parts, I think they used the same engine design used when the beetle left the us in 79. normal parts should suffice.
Mike, great video. Have you ever had a fire in the bus engine bay while driving? If so, how did u handle it? I'm considering the blaze cut hose suppression system that is installed over the shroud area. Heres a vid of it. ua-cam.com/video/iePku-2jh7Y/v-deo.html Please let me know your thoughts whether it wud be worth buying. Its about $250 for the 9ft size used on buses.
cool tin link at carcraft do not buy chrome black only carcraftstore.com/cylindersupercooltin.aspx aa barrel kit carcraftstore.com/pistonkits855-94mm.aspx best 69 crankshaft carcraftstore.com/chromolycounterweightedcrankshafts.aspx
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Great info and thanks for your tips and input. I’ve also had good luck with the CB cheater cam, great upgrade from stock and helps build torque and HP.
Great info Mike I might have to hit you up when it's time for me to build my 1776 😀
Thanks for the suggestions Mike. I’m considering pulling out my 40 horse in my 23 to increase the drivability!!
Great video thanks for sharing all the important information
hey ,I just wondering about the exhaust for that 1600. thanks Bobby I. Tennessee
I would like to know more about the correct jetting for the single carb 34 PICT?
can get round about jetting numbers for air cooled website. every engine is different though. depending on side. nomal 1600 DP with stock compression is around 30 to 35 main and 55 idle and mid. but you need to tune it and drive it and probably change it up or down. sometimes you need to loosen and pein the idle jet. it is not cookie cutter.
Thanks mike 😊
Cool video! Lots of info.
Mike I guess i calling the stock 1600 where I went with the PICT30 from your friends from Carcraft my bullet proof motor for my 63. I live in farm country so driving maybe a highway only at speeds of 55 or 60 for around 12 mile to the next town where I work. Most of the time it is only me and a John Deer tractor going down the highway and yes I can pass a deer. On a cool tin is that one without the flaps and therm. ???
I will put a pinned comment with some of the parts I am referring to thanks for asking. I love my empi carb it works so good idles so smooth now. almost cant hear the engine.
I will put a pinned comment with some of the parts I am referring to thanks for asking. I love my empi carb it works so good idles so smooth now. almost cant hear the engine.
What jets on the stock carb do you use thanks
What compression would I use with a 76 mm crank and 85.5 pistons?
Using off the shelf AA and similar big valve heads on a 1600 displacement dont give you squat, except for a little more rpm power on the cost of lower rpm driveability. DONT do that, Especially not if you reuse astock intake and stock heaterboxes. It will only give you less lower rpm torque and elevated head temperatures on the freeway. The reason to why a stock valved engine with stock CR and say a W100 cam may run cooler on the freeway is because you have actually DECREASED the effective DCR at the given rpm. You may have more rpm power, but you lost some torque. Its the old Berg doctrine all over again, and it STILL doesnt work. If you want to make real power you need to make the engine more efficient, not just add rpm to it.
If you want to keep the CR low (stock) go for a W90 cam if it has to be Engle. The W series is advanced 3-4 degrees in the grind, so with the W90 you basicly keep the stock DCR, but add a little power all the way up to the peak. Using say a W100 will make the engine loose power up to about 3000 rpm and from thereon up to about 4500 it will gain hp, but very little torque.
Jawbreaker is right with the 2280 cam, - as long as the engine gets a little more CR. 8,3 -8,5 is the sweet spot for it.
Also, if you want to make these engines run cooler, stop using those stupid 009´s and get yourself a proper SVDA distributor that matches the carb.
We - are - living in the year 2022. I can´t believe that "engine builders" still recommend to use the 009 on almost anything. You have quite an audience. How about teaching them someting new instead of repeating the same old BS that has been the norm for the last 30 years. Then your viewers can actually get a chance to build themselves a nice functionable engine instead of keep throwing good money after bad.
Theoreticly I perhaps ougth to do it myself, but I do not have the time for it, nor the skills to film and edit such a video.
End of rant.
clap clap so proud of you son. now go sit in the corner
@@ICU2HI Thuth is always taken ill. Especially if you are proven wrong. All you have to do is test it, on a calibrated dyno, and the numbers will show you whats going on.
Would you recommend a particular engine size for long trips and hill climbs in a bus? I'm thinking about either a 1776 or just rebuilding my stock 1600. It looks to me like anything bigger might make hill climbs much more respectable but you come across too many issues, heating, pcv and no longevity
I believe 88 mm machine-in cylinders and pistons are recommended for buses.
Hello , thanks for the vid , great info.
I actually have a 1600 Stcok and I am planning on buying slip in AA P&C 88.0 that goes up to 1700cc, would I get any more power really , if I don't do anything else to the engine ? , Do I need some extra cooling because of the thinner cylinder walls getting hot ? , Thanks so much .
Don’t do 88 mm slip-ins. Go 90.5’s.
You are lucky to live where you are. You can go to Carcraft and buy direct. Here in Corpus it costed over 150 bucks to get my last bunch of parts - case , crank , fan, then all the small parts- bearings stuff like that.
yea that sucks shipping is so expensive.
Mike, Got a question is it possible to install a 6 volt 180 flywheel on a 1600 single port. It's a 40 hp replacement engine. Love your content regarding vw's. Thanks Chris.
Many many VW enthusiasts believe they are experts without the knowledge to give advice , I do respect an opinion when it is communicated at the beginning to be an opinion ! There still are some Experts around from the late '60s , they mostly agree that they are still learning. no offense !
If you're upping the HP, you need a Gene Berg crankshaft.
good luck finding a real Berg crank. THey are mostly gone. or Okasa (REAL ONE) THere is a crank you can buy for 3000. that is good. WHO CAN AFFORD THAT.....
What is cool tin?
type 3 tin I will put a link on the video
type 3 tin I will put a link on the video
@@Mikefngarage ah okay thanks, we run heater boxes, but cool to know.
@@VWLifeVW I always like to run heater boxes and still run the cool tin they go under the cylinders and have metered holes that control the air around the cylinders. Replaces the plates between the cylinders. puts more air through the head. We are averaging a huge difference in head temp with those installed. I put up a link on the description.
@@Mikefngarage oh okay on the website to purchase them it says not to be used with heater boxes.
cool tin link at carcraft do not buy chrome black only carcraftstore.com/cylindersupercooltin.aspx
aa barrel kit carcraftstore.com/pistonkits855-94mm.aspx
best 69 crankshaft carcraftstore.com/chromolycounterweightedcrankshafts.aspx
Where can I buy that cool tin you referring to...
come back to the video in a few I will put up a pinned comment with links for the parts referred. thanks for asking.
come back to the video in a few I will put up a pinned comment with links for the parts referred. thanks for asking.
How can I find out what parts fit my 1994 VW Mexican Beetle? I have a hard time finding parts for it. Local auto part store, can never help me find the correct parts.
I'm far from being an expert but if it's engine parts, I think they used the same engine design used when the beetle left the us in 79. normal parts should suffice.
cb performance cheater cams are great as well
Mike, great video. Have you ever had a fire in the bus engine bay while driving? If so, how did u handle it? I'm considering the blaze cut hose suppression system that is installed over the shroud area. Heres a vid of it. ua-cam.com/video/iePku-2jh7Y/v-deo.html
Please let me know your thoughts whether it wud be worth buying. Its about $250 for the 9ft size used on buses.
cool tin link at carcraft do not buy chrome black only carcraftstore.com/cylindersupercooltin.aspx
aa barrel kit carcraftstore.com/pistonkits855-94mm.aspx
best 69 crankshaft carcraftstore.com/chromolycounterweightedcrankshafts.aspx