We did this 16 years ago with Brazilian Cherry in a north Texas home and not one board has come loose or shifted. It is a very solid floor. The house was already 20 years old and the concrete moisture was well within the recommended limits. No moisture barrier was required.
Hey there. No we strictly just spread the glue down and set the boards in place. No nailing at all. It is now 19 years old and the total area is 500sq ft. All boards still tight to concrete.
For those who are commenting on the flooring on concrete, I am sure you are not speaking from experience but rather by way of some assumed info from some flooring company in the years passed. My sister owns a very old house and the kitchen has T & G hardwood floors. It was glued down without a vapor barrier. The floors were put down centuries before my sister got it. It has never been a problem. HOWEVER, I would recommend doing the vapor barrier.
@@josephtrankina4534 the glue is for bonding the wood to the floor . A DPM is for forming a damp proof membrane between the adhesive and the concrete. You can't have something acting as a DPM if its not a DPM.
@@Miguel...160 You mean the polyurethane glue, which is always advertised as waterproof and is troweled on doesn't count? Seems like it'd be fine. What you're basically saying is you want the wood floor to float as it's adhered to the DPM instead of the floor. Which is an option if the DPM can handle the expansion/contraction of the wood, but not for that floor system, and quite expensive in 2013 when this was filmed. It 'seems' fine to me, but I wouldn't put a wood floor in my basement(which is where I have concrete. Had several leaks over the years, and the wood would just soak it up and rot. It'd go with a vinyl floating floor, just so I don't have to replace chunks of wood every time there's a leak. Or resin.
@@zetsumeinaito yes of course. If u just went with a membrane, the adhesive would only adhere to that and be useless - the membrane would be the weakest link.
What the heck? I get it with some specialized glues that act as a water barrier you can get away with direct to concrete installations but man drilling down nailing straight through that is just hack job
Warning! Do not install hardwood floors in your basement, even on top of a subfloor. The moisture levels are two great during the summer months and even engineered hardwood flooring will look like garbage just a couple years. What they are doing here can be done on top of concrete as long as it's not in the basement or bottom level of the building. This is a common practice in condos because the concrete floor is far above the lower level of the structure, avoiding moisture issues.
+Ben Weinman I wouldn't recommend it, but if it's a garden shed, I wouldn't say it would have to be to code. Do what u will. But know that in 2-3years it could be pretty warped and twisted.
+Ben Weinman assuming that you already have a concrete slab, personally I would leave it bare concrete, lay patio stone with sand or some sort of a garage floor treatment, basically an epoxy paint. things I wouldn't recommend: 1 Laying any sort of laminate/wood floor 2 laying tile Laying tile in a basement would be fine but outside if you live in a cold climate the freeze and thaw cycle would probably make it crack. Hope I could help out!
Practices and standards in America don't recommend installing raw tongue and groove flooring directly over concrete. For best results we would use an engineered product which would be a type of plywood as a base and a top surface of the wood of choice. It is dimensionally stable. Most likely installing a raw wood over a concrete floor will result in extreme expansion on the width of the floor. I would be curious to know how this floor performed years later.
Good luck, it's only a matter of time when this floor begins to buckle. You both would have been well advised to to roll two coats of sealer on the concrete, let it dry a minimum of 24 hours, then glue down the floor with flooring mastic. Good flooring mastic will cost you $150 - $170 US for a 5 gallon bucket. Better yet, use a pre-finished hardwood floor to guarantee not having any issues with regards to moisture.
while I realise that laying (gluing) solid boards direct to concrete is not as ideal as nailing and gluing to a timber substrate I have a small section of suspended concrete slab which was put in as part of an extension to the house and at the same level with the old timber floor over which I am gluing and nailing a new floor - I'd like to look into and try this method to avoid securing a timber substrate to the concrete and therefore a raised step - what is the type of glue which is required?
This is the old school way of installing hardwood floors. Nobody does solid hardwood on concrete anymore, instead add a subfloor then solid hardwood floor. You can get away with doing that with "engineered hardwood floor" directly on concrete though.
I was looking to learn how the best way is to fit the guards around the perimeter of the walls - the guards that mask the floor boards mating to the wall surface.
Looks like they're just nailing regular galvanized finish nails into the concrete? Anybody ever tried that? Success? I'd like to do exactly that if it works...
Ok to answer a load of questions, the concrete floor needs sealing with a primer, in the UK all concrete floors are insulated underneath the concrete slab. The primer acts as a sealer to stop moisture, the glue is also waterproof, the glue is also flexible, to allow for expansion off the wood throughout the seasonal temperatures and moisture. Always leave a expansion cap around the room edges, NEVER nail like these guys did, your stopping the floor from moving, it will fail and crack, and boards will come apart creating gaps along the joints. Hope this helps a few people.
Im not an expert on any of these. As a matter of fact, more tiles over concrete tradition but now living in a different climate (very humid in summertime) I wouldn't install the expensive wooden floor on a concrete slab. I would first add strips along the floor and then plywood boards on top letting moisture to run underneath then subfloor then the wooden floor on top. With the moisture coming out of the slab, it could mess your entire floor in two three years. I think this video is very outdated, but ok. Thanks for posting it
Installing hardwood directly over concrete is a bad idea. Concrete can change moisture levels without notice and transfer that moisture to your wood floors.The result is not pretty.
You really want to have all that sanding dust kicked up onto the walls and ceilings. Seems easier to just throw a dropcloth down and paint after the floor is done.
The failure rate is north of 70% when installing real 100% hardwood flooring on concrete. Always use ENGINEERED hardwood as it's the only hardwood that will stand the test of time.
Even if Red Guard eliminated the failure rate (which it doesn't) it's cost prohibitive. It's cheaper, better, and perfectly reliable (trifecta of a good decision here) to just add a layer plywood and attach the floor it.
What I said is true: The failure rate is north of 70% when installing real 100% hardwood flooring on concrete. Always use ENGINEERED hardwood as it's the only hardwood that will stand the test of time.
People do not do this. It is totally wrong, all wrong. Wood will expand and contract and over concrete you will need air to flow underneath using 3/4 tongue and grove plywood. Screwed to the floor and start In the middle of the room. Use wood spacers to reverse the staple down position.
Cold? boo hoo. Ceramic holds very well to concrete, and it's an excellent conductor for a radiant heated. floor.I'm not a tile setter but I've designed a few and there's no end to the looks you can achieve. On walkout basements ceramic makes a good solar heat trap if the orientation of the house is right. As for 'cold', put on a pair of slippers. Better yet, one or more Persian Rug types on the floor will define areas and add to a warmer feel. And when I say Tile, I include porcelain, terra cotta and slate.
We did this 16 years ago with Brazilian Cherry in a north Texas home and not one board has come loose or shifted. It is a very solid floor. The house was already 20 years old and the concrete moisture was well within the recommended limits. No moisture barrier was required.
If you don’t mind me asking, did you fasten it like these guys did?
Hey there. No we strictly just spread the glue down and set the boards in place. No nailing at all. It is now 19 years old and the total area is 500sq ft. All boards still tight to concrete.
Was it t&G?
@@davidharlass5984awesome. Thank you for the info!
Followed these instructions to lay my floor - great job, thank you!
These guys look like a cross between Pen and Teller and Tim and Al from tool time. haha :D
Good to see hale and pace are still earning a few quid
Ha, spot on!
Hahahahaha
For those who are commenting on the flooring on concrete, I am sure you are not speaking from experience but rather by way of some assumed info from some flooring company in the years passed. My sister owns a very old house and the kitchen has T & G hardwood floors. It was glued down without a vapor barrier. The floors were put down centuries before my sister got it. It has never been a problem.
HOWEVER, I would recommend doing the vapor barrier.
Damp proof membrane ( DPM) should be used everytime on concrete/ sand cement before laying wood .
the glue acts as the membrane, that's why it is screeded across the entire floor
@@josephtrankina4534 the glue is for bonding the wood to the floor . A DPM is for forming a damp proof membrane between the adhesive and the concrete. You can't have something acting as a DPM if its not a DPM.
@@Miguel...160 You mean the polyurethane glue, which is always advertised as waterproof and is troweled on doesn't count? Seems like it'd be fine.
What you're basically saying is you want the wood floor to float as it's adhered to the DPM instead of the floor. Which is an option if the DPM can handle the expansion/contraction of the wood, but not for that floor system, and quite expensive in 2013 when this was filmed.
It 'seems' fine to me, but I wouldn't put a wood floor in my basement(which is where I have concrete. Had several leaks over the years, and the wood would just soak it up and rot. It'd go with a vinyl floating floor, just so I don't have to replace chunks of wood every time there's a leak. Or resin.
@@zetsumeinaito yes of course. If u just went with a membrane, the adhesive would only adhere to that and be useless - the membrane would be the weakest link.
@@oliverleslie7382 You generally get what you pay for on that.
Channel is called DIY. ~"lets call the experts"
What is the point of leaving a 10mm expansion gap between the first board and the wall when you nail the first row down into concrete?
+Howard Chislett I agree it sounds weird, But the wood will expand and shrink with high and low temps even though its nailed in on concrete.
Howard Chislett bh
those are little highways for spiders and cockroaches.
@@silentndeadly Good point. Laying my floor now. I will cover those 10 mm gaps in diatomaceous earth. That will kill any insects there forever
@@chrislambe400 diatomaceous earth is bad for lungs, not a great idea to use this way
So how do I locate gas and heating pipes first?
I do believe I would have painted before laying the new floor! Things are done different "across the pond", I guess.......
Glue is the vapour barrier. Better adhesion without the paint. I think..
@@ralphjenkins370 he was talking about the walls 😁
What the heck? I get it with some specialized glues that act as a water barrier you can get away with direct to concrete installations but man drilling down nailing straight through that is just hack job
Concrete nails work well, depends on the concrete though.. if there are river rocks in the mix - forget it.
@@krakenwoodfloorservicemcma5975 He's probably thinking about the punching a hole through the water barrier to put in those nails.
I do have a question if you glow down your hardwood floor on concreate, do you need a gap between of the floor and the wall
What type nails did you use and what size drill bit was used to drill the holes?
Wow like that yellow tool what’s it’s call where could I get one
I heard the English accents started out with some English humor and I subscribed straightaway
Sorry to disappoint but they're not English.
I love the comedy aspect too thanks very helpful 👍
where can i buy those yellow CLAMPS look on internet and could not find them. Thanks Johnnie
first where is the vapor barrier and why nail the first rung.
Warning! Do not install hardwood floors in your basement, even on top of a subfloor. The moisture levels are two great during the summer months and even engineered hardwood flooring will look like garbage just a couple years. What they are doing here can be done on top of concrete as long as it's not in the basement or bottom level of the building. This is a common practice in condos because the concrete floor is far above the lower level of the structure, avoiding moisture issues.
what about in a garden shed with a concrete floor
+Ben Weinman I wouldn't recommend it, but if it's a garden shed, I wouldn't say it would have to be to code. Do what u will. But know that in 2-3years it could be pretty warped and twisted.
hats not a problem got any suggestions for flooring
+Ben Weinman assuming that you already have a concrete slab, personally I would leave it bare concrete, lay patio stone with sand or some sort of a garage floor treatment, basically an epoxy paint.
things I wouldn't recommend:
1 Laying any sort of laminate/wood floor
2 laying tile
Laying tile in a basement would be fine but outside if you live in a cold climate the freeze and thaw cycle would probably make it crack.
Hope I could help out!
okay thanks man it did
Solid boards should always be fixed to timber battens.
Practices and standards in America don't recommend installing raw tongue and groove flooring directly over concrete. For best results we would use an engineered product which would be a type of plywood as a base and a top surface of the wood of choice. It is dimensionally stable. Most likely installing a raw wood over a concrete floor will result in extreme expansion on the width of the floor. I would be curious to know how this floor performed years later.
Good luck, it's only a matter of time when this floor begins to buckle. You both would have been well advised to to roll two coats of sealer on the concrete, let it dry a minimum of 24 hours, then glue down the floor with flooring mastic. Good flooring mastic will cost you $150 - $170 US for a 5 gallon bucket. Better yet, use a pre-finished hardwood floor to guarantee not having any issues with regards to moisture.
Hi, what kind of nails are you using?
Mates - before sanding, did you need to wait a day for the glue to cure, or could you carry on straight away?
What brand of jacks are those?
Did he just drill through a pipe in the floor? 0.43
Their overalls are awesome.
was this filmed in the 1980's!?
Why so unhappy about that pencil and ruler at 2:04?
while I realise that laying (gluing) solid boards direct to concrete is not as ideal as nailing and gluing to a timber substrate I have a small section of suspended concrete slab which was put in as part of an extension to the house and at the same level with the old timber floor over which I am gluing and nailing a new floor - I'd like to look into and try this method to avoid securing a timber substrate to the concrete and therefore a raised step - what is the type of glue which is required?
David Morgan Polyurethane - www.mapei.com/GB-EN/Products-for-Wooden-Floors/Adhesives-for-the-installation-of-wood-and-laminate-Flooring
Can you guys please do my floor in the Hunter Valley?
Does anyone know if they've used concrete nails in the pre drilled holes?
They look like galvanized finish nails
This is the old school way of installing hardwood floors. Nobody does solid hardwood on concrete anymore, instead add a subfloor then solid hardwood floor. You can get away with doing that with "engineered hardwood floor" directly on concrete though.
why? what role does the subfloor serve on top of concrete?
@@jacksonmstrong1you put 6 mil plastic under the subfloor
Soon as he marked that jamb I knew he didn’t know enough for me to benefit. Good luck…
I was looking to learn how the best way is to fit the guards around the perimeter of the walls - the guards that mask the floor boards mating to the wall surface.
I shall call him "Mini-Me"
What type of glue did you use??
Sikaflex 228
Dan Bull
I get a similar job, may I have your contact ?
How far apart you nail the first board?
sahmadi1000 1/4 inch
Good diy video. Thanks
Looks like they're just nailing regular galvanized finish nails into the concrete? Anybody ever tried that? Success? I'd like to do exactly that if it works...
He predrilled, so it is more like a holding pin
Will definitely work with the right pilot hole.. galvanized nails lock solid when they get damp.
So professional I love it
eh? left any space for expansion ?
Ummm.... first part of the video? 1:34
Ok to answer a load of questions, the concrete floor needs sealing with a primer, in the UK all concrete floors are insulated underneath the concrete slab. The primer acts as a sealer to stop moisture, the glue is also waterproof, the glue is also flexible, to allow for expansion off the wood throughout the seasonal temperatures and moisture. Always leave a expansion cap around the room edges, NEVER nail like these guys did, your stopping the floor from moving, it will fail and crack, and boards will come apart creating gaps along the joints. Hope this helps a few people.
Im not an expert on any of these. As a matter of fact, more tiles over concrete tradition but now living in a different climate (very humid in summertime) I wouldn't install the expensive wooden floor on a concrete slab. I would first add strips along the floor and then plywood boards on top letting moisture to run underneath then subfloor then the wooden floor on top. With the moisture coming out of the slab, it could mess your entire floor in two three years. I think this video is very outdated, but ok. Thanks for posting it
You have to tape the hardwood to keep it tight... Then remove the tape 24 hours later.
Installing hardwood directly over concrete is a bad idea. Concrete can change moisture levels without notice and transfer that moisture to your wood floors.The result is not pretty.
Wood also changes moisture levels
That was my thoughts, there’s no way this didn’t rot
I think that the pu glue will kinda serve as a moisture barrier.
Dude, paint the walls FIRST!! then put in the flooring... Duh
You really want to have all that sanding dust kicked up onto the walls and ceilings. Seems easier to just throw a dropcloth down and paint after the floor is done.
LOL. uses the wall as a way to get a "Straight" line for the rest of the boards. WRONG, I'm out!
My house was built in 1908, I was like nope! you beat me to the post.
It's not recommended in USA to attach hardwood to a cement slab. There will be problems with that floor in the future.
The failure rate is north of 70% when installing real 100% hardwood flooring on concrete. Always use ENGINEERED hardwood as it's the only hardwood that will stand the test of time.
Even if Red Guard eliminated the failure rate (which it doesn't) it's cost prohibitive. It's cheaper, better, and perfectly reliable (trifecta of a good decision here) to just add a layer plywood and attach the floor it.
What I said is true: The failure rate is north of 70% when installing real 100% hardwood flooring on concrete. Always use ENGINEERED hardwood as it's the only hardwood that will stand the test of time.
A layer of plywood is the only way to glue 100% hardwood to concrete. Just using red guard is not enough.
@@johng9562 Glue the plywood and then glue the floor?
The little guy had a twin brother, but the big guy ate him. Little guy has been sworn to silence, and fears being eaten.
imagine trying to remove this
I didn’t know Penn and Teller do DIY......lol....😂
Nice Job ....Thanks!!!
People do not do this. It is totally wrong, all wrong. Wood will expand and contract and over concrete you will need air to flow underneath using 3/4 tongue and grove plywood. Screwed to the floor and start In the middle of the room. Use wood spacers to reverse the staple down position.
No glue on the tongue & groove? Just screws will hold all the warpage down over time?
Yeh😂 ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL😂
verry good sir
Totally forgot to lay a vapor barrier. Big mistake
The biggest value for a concrete basement is ceramic tile.
Cold? boo hoo. Ceramic holds very well to concrete, and it's an excellent conductor for a radiant heated. floor.I'm not a tile setter but I've designed a few and there's no end to the looks you can achieve. On walkout basements ceramic makes a good solar heat trap if the orientation of the house is right. As for 'cold', put on a pair of slippers. Better yet, one or more Persian Rug types on the floor will define areas and add to a warmer feel. And when I say Tile, I include porcelain, terra cotta and slate.
@@stayjit1 better they have some experience before trying to lay slate tile..could be very heart breaking, along with the slate
Bulk and skull have done well for themselves, now the power rangers have retired
whats up with the floor sanders swag? sanding in shorts, brown ankle high strap mini boots ,with blue dress socks lol
Upper lumpers
You should see the ridiculous outfits i sand in.. keeps customers far away and they never bother you.
@@krakenwoodfloorservicemcma5975 "Wow that psycho sure can put down a great floor"
@@JohnBoyX570 exactly
Fucking nice looking floor
You can install solid wood boards that come complete with professional finishes these days, no need for all this bullshit.
They look like fucking billionaires that say cooka.
We’re here to pump (clap) you up!
Where's the membrane? Why nail the 1st board to the floor? Cowboys.
hodor and bilbo
That concrete is on the earth? I call bs on this technique.
hehe u guys look like penn and teller
primalfury2011 I thought that to
nails.on.top? oh no..
Wow, that was bloody horrible. Thanks for wasting my time. Never get that back 🤣🤣
mario and luigi 👌lol
Super Mario. clickbait
bollocks!! How many regular household will be able to have such a professional job to be done? get real mate, this is not good for every one!!!
Love it
Ok lol what about expansion of the wood nailing will not help!!
What's it like to remove that flooring when glued to concrete?