Ford 5.4L Broken Spark Plug Removal.... Don’t Panic, It’s Easy with Lisle 65600
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- How to remove broken spark plugs Ford 5.4 3 valve.
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so whats the rings for?
So you left part of the metal tip that broke off into the cylinder. Look at the tip of the first plug, half of the lower part is gone. The ceramic piece broke it off being pushed down?
A bore scope into the piston for foreign metal bits seemed reasonable.
@@IndyTiger1050would a magnet pen get that chunk of metal out of there? I would need to be 1000% no metal is in the cylinder before anything!!!😮
THANK YOU SO MUCH! I was literally sick to my stomach 20 minutes ago! After watching this video, I feel much better!
Glad it helped!
Ford guy told me to run engine and get it nice and hot then remove one side, start engine and get it hot again and do the other side. works for me wont have nearly as much problems. tip of the day in case you never tried it. thanks
Great use of Anti-seize ; thanks for thinking of the "next guy" !
Its not the threads that get siezed its the tip that protrudes past the threads i broke 3 at work yesterday and its always in the back cylinders where the temps are higher at least thats my theory
That tool should have come in the glove box of every new Ford.
Right right on brother speak💯🤞🏿
it helps to get the motor warm and use a half inch impact
Just had to do 6 out of 8 on Sunday. Horrible design. The lisle removal tool is a beast. Still was an all day job. Can't stand working on Ford's.
Hello sir I have a question how did the truck run or behave when six of the eight plugs were did it not want to go over a certain speed limit or anything like such?? I just bought a navigator 5.4 and need to know if broken plugs would cause it to not want to drive or have no power ? It does have one I seen that’s broken coil is not connected it has no power and won’t go over twenty mph and is back firing and shot out some white smoke
I had the same problem did you ever figured it out ?
I like the Lisle stuff. Ive have several tools from them and they’re of good quality and were an affordable price.
Great Video Thanks!
Just bought a 06 F150 5.4L and
I'm about to change my plugs and though I'd better see how you take out broken one's lmao.🤪
Thanks from 🇨🇦
Thankya much! Love the content, and the accent! Merry Christmas from the Brau family all the way up here in Wisconsin!!
Thanks for watching! I truly appreciate it. merry Christmas to your family also
Just did plug change on my 5.4 thank god somebody done been in it had new style 1 piece plugs and lots of anti seize on them 6 out of the 8 were just hand tight took little over an hour but the what I though was going to be a nightmare turned out pretty easy thank you whoever was a descent mechanic for the never seize
Y'all made it look easy
I do like the dull finish on the tools.. should show the ratcheting serpentine belt tool in action is it worth money
This was a really bad design and that tool from lisle is magic
Going to do plugs next week...ran can of seafoam thru it at 1/4 tank of fuel and going to use pb blaster on plugs and get motor hot...factory plugs and 100,000 miles wish me luck.
Good luck! Maybe but this tool so you won't need it... 😂
@@scott1708 thanks but it went terrible and bought this tool used it twice and the threads got smashed....rented another one same exact tool numbers and had 4 lines on the tool used that one 6 times and nothing happened to it...so the one I bought must not of got tempered right!! My fucking luck!
Seems like most specialty tools are for Fords.
I'm wondering if just special tools buy Ford's LOL
You ever had to use a 34mm hex head for a oil filter cartridge replacement...yea thanks Chevy
Built Ford Rust
@@geeruger4279 Try Toyota. You need a 90mm special filter adapter...
5.5mm socket. Bullshit
The irony is that this, blown out plugs and timing chain sets that werent able to last 50k miles was such a common Ford V8 problem, yet Jaguars from the Ford/same era are some of the easiest engines Ive ever done plugs on. In nearly 2 decades I cannot remember a single broken and siezed plug (they didnt use this design thankfully), and it wasnt horribly often you had to replace coils unless a valve cover leaked and soaked the boot causing it to short out since rich folks drove them 300 more miles with the CEL flashing for good measure. Those jags all used motorcraft parts and we routinely bought parts from the Ford or Lincoln dealers on the same street when we needed something same day that was out of stock at our dealer. Even the timing chains on the Jag V8's, while a fairly common repair, were way more reliable than the Ford V8's, and could be changed so easily (usually 3-4 hr job on an XJ if it was running just rattling) with a $100 cam alignment kit if you wanted your own instead of waiting for the shop's tool to come available.
I went to put timing chains on my 2005 V8 Lincoln Aviator and they cost 2x what the Jaguar parts did, in addition to I had blown 3 of the plugs out over the last 6 months, and knew the rest would prob break off (the only reason they dont blow out is theyre stuck in on Fords) while I was changing them since I was in there. I just traded that dog in on a Dodge Ram instead!
I have 2010 I gotta do plugs on. Great video
Whole different ball of wax with 2010.
Ford had "corrected" their mistake by late 2007.
I had one that was looking like I had to pull the a plug that broke but saved on that to buy the toll to pull the plug that broke.
Found also a low compression on the same side to find out that one of the 3 valves actually was broken.
Saved me from buying a plug removal tool. I did how ever had to buy a new compression tester my cheap one and not fit and the fitting dose not fit my cheap one.
But I am looking at getting that tool anyway. I have had several 3 valve with really tight spark plugs but have had the ability to remove with out braking them
these dudes are awesome!
Lol. 5.4 spark plug rules. 2 valves can't keep the plugs in the head. 3 valves can't get them out....
Maybe the 4 valves they will come out with next (just joking) will be just right !
Hey gentiemen what I've done is use my 3/8 impact, put it on the lowest torque to tighten the spark plug so the crust on the bottom of th plug will loosen up without damaging the thread on the head and then taking the plug off with the same impact. Never broken a plug. Not bragging at all but give it a try it's worked for me.Good luck my brother technicians.
We use an impact while it is hot and usually don’t have issues but this one was just an @$s
Will sure give it a try your way though never too old to learn new tricks. Thanks.
Thank you straight to the point and helpful thanks
That motor had a few poor designs..from the plugs to all the cam phaser issues
DIY SEMI Ford screwed the pooch by going to the modular engine design to begin with. It’s been nothing but cam phasers, sloppy chains, and noises. I’m not a GM fanboy but the LS design has become one of the ten best engines ever made because they stayed with a simple pushrod design. Even with the issues that various LS models had it was still a far better design.
Plastic chain guides and evrything else..
That's quite helpful thanks, but aren't you afraid the white porcelain part may break in small pieces or a little small chips from it may fall in the cylinder? Please advice. I have the tool and will attempt doing that stuff tomorrow. Thanks
I have rebuilt these engines after your repair! And u should see what the porcelain does to the cylinder walls from being lodged in the rings loll totally fubar engnes
Awesome job guys!!!
Saved me!
Run em out with an air impact as fast as possible lol. Seems like BS but I haven't had to deal with this in years.
Before lisle came out with those tools as per TSB it was panic time by the way Ha!
Just got me one f150 an its has this same problem but thanks for showing me how to getit out tha only were do i rent this tool at cant find it no were
You can buy the tool off Amazon
Ok thanks alot im followings you an im share your videos on my fb an tiktok thanks alot
Any advice if you strip out the spark plug tip and the lisle tool won't bite? Im thinking of applying some Jb weld or Locitite 680 to the end of the lisle tool and let it set before trying again.
That’s about all you can do
I've run into a few of those and thank god for Lisle, the tool works good for this job. I usually get the call for mobile repairs when someone tries to change their own plugs to save money and they end up calling me to fix it
So if someone uses that removal tool and breaks the metal tip and falls into cyclinder, how do u get it out????😮😮 nightmare
Now how bout the triton oil problem?😂
What about the broken piece of metal that was broken off of the spark plug when the ceramic was being pushed down
I know I'm commenting on an old video I sparkie plugs on my 5.4 Triton praise the good Lord didn't have any break off
At 5:52 when Wally knocks over the Lisle kit, he lost one of the nylon gaskets into the engine bay. I yelled at him through my screen, but i guess he couldnt hear me.
Well he did say that's why he doesnt have all of them anymore
it left pieces in the cylinder? the metal casing end is missing some
Thanks for the video
Question... How the hell do I get it out if the the whole internal piece separated from the threaded part?
VERY carefully with a square cut EZ-Out.
Thanks for this video! We have a 2010 F-150. I've always heard stories of how awful the sparkplugs are. That was after we replaced them! Now I see from your video what they were talking about. Those sparkplugs are weird looking. They didn't look anything like the ones we pulled out or put in. Ford must have updated the part.
That's because those plugs were an issue from 2004- to early Nov. 2007. After that there was a design change with the head AND the plugs went from a 2 piece design to a 1 piece. Terrible design on Ford's part but most of thier stuff is. We've got a 2007 with a Nov. 2006 engine... 82k miles... someone had already swapped the problem factory plugs out with some snake oil BS E3 Diamondfires. Crap plugs that barely make 30k miles before the gap is horribly excessive causing misfires and smoking coils... problem we have right now is one plug has welded itself in place from oxidation and another that did the same but broke leaving only the threaded shell welded in the head.
Very helpful! Just bought a 06 triton and am doing plugs soon on it! Thanks for the awesome videos guys!
You and I have Joked about this before Clay. #4 and #8 seem to always break.
I smear that nickle antiseize to within a 1/2 inch of the tip.
james U try copper, higher temp rating.
@@ChaseLandMgmt ????
Copper anti seize. It has a higher temp rating than Nickel. Works better for high heat applications.
@@ChaseLandMgmt I don't think so?? at least not from CRC or Permatex. Copper is rated below 2000F and Nickel is rated to 2600F. I have been using it on turbo hardware for decades. Either should work as long as you spread it down the tip. The threads don't seize, the tip does. Copper can react with stainless as well.
Huh, the loctite brand of anti seize gives the temperature advantage to copper.
Very important, do everything BY HAND, no impact !!!
I hope the guy that invented those, is a rich man. I'm hitting my tool truck guy up Tuesday!
There’s a link in the description to order it off Amazon, super cheap !
@@KoonTrucking I saw that after I posted. I should have looked first. You always take care of the fans
@@KoonTrucking or support Joe's business and order it from him.
I seen there was no penetrating oil used. I get them to operating temp pull coil and start backing the plug out with a ratchet and when it starts to get tight i turn the plug in just a little and spray a good amount of deep creep in the hole by the time we get to the last plug I use a 3/8 impact extension and wobble to take them all out never broke a plug yet lol
thats what i did today, did your vehicle smoke under the hood on first start up? how lond does it smoke for?
Make sure the jiggly bits that come off the broken spark plugs are removed from the cylinder via compressed air before putting new plugs back in or you’ll toast the entire engine.
You guys didn’t blow excess porcelain/debris out before taking out the broken plug ?
Soak mine with pb blaster for 2 days boom done and of course the coils
Bought a lilse knockoff and the puller part wouldent bite into the plug sleeve that was stuck in the head. I used 5/16" thread rod and JB Weld to bond thread rod n broken plug together. It pulls out beautifully.
Avoid breaking these.
1. Impact wrench with at least 120ft pounds
2. Get the engine to operating temp
3. Full send
4. Break none
5. Beer
Haha hell yeah
Unfortunately this does not work on all of these, broke 2 plugs
To lessen the chance, run fuel down to 1/4 tank put a can of sea foam in run to almost empty, then run engine hot and use a impact to back out plugs 1 bank at a time re running engine to do the 2nd bank I never bust plugs this way
Help. How do I get the shell off the extractor once it's out. Yes I went clockwise.
Around here, the K&N sticker denotes "150-200k on these original plugs, get ready"... I've been doing 3Vs for years as a technician, but have yet to see a video on #4 or #8 where the entire porcelain and electrode stay unbroken and the nut comes out alone. 'Bout every other truck I see has at least 1 do that. If someone did a vid on that, we'd be the last generation of mechanics... ;) A good watch nevertheless, guys!
Yup. Have a 2007 with a whopping 82k on it and non-factory plugs that this the current situation... exept it's plug #2. Whole plug porcelin and all intact... threaded shell with no hex still oxidized/welded in head... Ford's engineers should be kicked square in the plums for this idiotic modular "engine".
Good deal 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
It's a good thing lisle is better at making tools than Ford is at engines. Lol. Keeps lisle making new problem solvers.
Another great video!
The easiest fix for that is to scrap the Ford and buy a Chevy...
LMAO
Then watch some other vid.... Duh
@@shannonbrooks8834 STFU you low IQ moron...
LMAO
You guys are awesome!!!!!!!!
Now I feel confident trying it
No hi temp anti seize on the plugs? I always use the copper stuff.
Copper and aluminum react together
Use nickle anti
Worked for ford for 8+ years. Never had this happen. Just used a impact gun to take the plugs out. 0 issues
Ok boomer.
I always go back with Champion plugs, they are the only ones who make a one piece plug for the 3 valve, they designed it and own the patent and it eliminates the problem completely.
We re do i find tha plug you are talking about i do not want to go back whit these plugs
Champions are part number 7989.
However, as far as them being the only ones to make a 1 piece plug... not true.
Motorcraft updated is SP546
Autolite has the HT-15
Then there are junk E3 plugs that barely do 30k miles before the gap is HUGE and starts smoking the coils.
Is there enough clearance if that piston happens to be up? What about debris left behind? Will is cause damage?
It pushes it inside the metal part i show it at the end of the video
Just do the job while it’s hot and you won’t have this problem.
Good video clay u have to love the tritons places around here charge 90 a hole for broken plug in them it’s crazy I do them on the side all the time I did some one day on lunch break
I reckon i need to get me an f150 with the 5.4 and a broken spark plug😅
Everyone needs a couple of those around !
Sweet video, very helpful 💯you guys are cool as hell too 😎
hey guys like your channel but i love my fords
Had a special place in my heart for my 5.4 L triton until I had to change the spark plugs
Fuck fords just did plugs and coils took me about 13 hours or so and 8/8 broke....then plug wont come out of hole even when totally loose then gotta extract it last ford 5.4l job I do!!
Haha
I'm going to get my spark plugs changed in my 2005 expedition... With that risk of the plug breaking off into the head... Can I be legally charged to retrieve that from the head when my original work was to be changing coils and spark plugs?
Yes, if those break off the shops usually charge between $80-120 per plug that breaks to extract them or if they can’t extract them then the head will have to be removed. It’s a known issue and most of the time they can be extracted but there’s always that risk they can’t. But you will be charged for the time to get them out if they fail.
@@KoonTrucking thank you for the reply.... what a thing to have to worry about just to get maintenance done 😵💫 have a happy safe New Year's sir.
Quick question, what do you do about the metal ground strap/electrode that fell into the cylinder?
It didn’t fall inside. It was bent straight and still on there.
What do you do about the broken pieces that fall into the cylinder?
The engine will eat it
I always use a 1/2 inch titanium impact with a 3/8 to 1/2 swivel adapter with a small 1/2 inch extension at full send... that seems to be the best method for getting those plugs out without breaking.. still have some break here and there though... do you guys use an impact or try running an induction service or spraying down the holes with penetrating oil? What is your preference
We get them hot and it then with an impact usually works just fine but this one was still factory plugs in it with over 150k miles
I have a question for mechanics out there that know what they are talking about. I had a mechanic tell me the extraction tool is only good for a couple plug removals then he has to buy a new tool so my cost to replace the plugs could go up if he breaks more than a couple plugs. Seems like a good way for a mechanic to get me to buy him a new tool or to just make extra money. What do you guys think?
What if the plug just spins inside and wont grip
But dam good video man love it 🥂💯
What if there is something stuck in between the spark plug and the outer wall to where it makes it impossible to even attempt to remove the spark plug at all. That’s the problem I’m having with my 2004 5.4 triton. And guess which one is the one I’m having that problem with? If you said #4 then you’d be correct!
Use a pick ? We have seen small rocks get in there and be under the spark plug boot but usually compressed air or a pick will get it out easily
Ty fellaz
Oh I panicked for sure I got a nice half turn outta the first plug then felt it go tight, I turned it back and put the coil back on😂 I'm not qualified lol
If you can get half a turn you should be okay... back it out, use Motorcraft carb spray and fill the plug well up to just over the hex. Let soak for a couple of hours. Or at least 15 minutes minimum. Tighten plug slightly, then loosen slightly... keep working it like that backing it out a little further each time and it should come on out.
My second piece wont tighten at all i keep turning but its not tightened
Those motors were terrible phasers, timing chains, broken plugs, plus they were pretty underpowered, but that tool is great
I usually get the engine hot as hell before starting on them plugs out
Hot engine with a high speed up impact on the highest Setting and just hammer down on it they would twist right out oh that shy hole
The Lisiles 65700 does the jonn
I agree except the underpowered part... no Ford fan by any means but 300+ hp and around 350 ft/lbs of torque seems like plenty in a half or 3/4 ton truck. I mean it's not like you're trying tow a bulldozer up the side of a mountain on a tri-axle flatbed with one of those things.
I’m a school bus diesel tech and never had to use this tool but I will for sure look into this just for future reference. Join trucking you do awesome videos definitely need to get one or 2 of those diesel medic shirts and hats!!!
Asked a local shop how much to change my plugs in my Ford f150. $300 plus $150 for each plug that brakes. I'm getting this tool and trying myself. Thanks for the video
Just replaced spark plugs 05 expidition, motor craft .044 gap, 14mm deep well socket, 2/8 air rachet 90^, 30 foot lbs with light anti-sese . 5.4 3 valve runs perfect.
I have a 03 Lincoln the spark plug broke off run like shi* hard to crank up tried to crank it up clear smoke came out
Navigater
You just saved my life send me your Venmo and I will buy Dr Pepper
Haha just click that subscribe button, trying to get to 100k
So what do you do when you follow all the steps but as your pulling the extractor out all the threads break off 🙃
I can imagine that the Snapon or Milwaukee long neck ratchet or 3/8" Drive CT761 make that job a lot easier
Need to feel it honestly on the removal tool
@@KoonTrucking really that's surprising
do you think the backside ones break more often to those closer to the firewall and less air flows over the engine at those places or is it just plain we remember bad luck things so it seems as though it's always the back end that's breaking
Haha i think it’s just the luck of the draw ? Not sure honestly
Part of it I believe is because it's harder to reach and using a standard plug wrench and extension that a slight bit of side force gets unintentionally applied causing the rears to seem to break more often. Could be wrong though. That's one reason for the really long specialty plug wrench was made for. At least that's my theory anyway.
One question: why do you lather it up with never seize on the part that you don't have a problem getting out? Shouldn't you put something on the smooth shaft near the end of the plug that got stuck inside the head? Just curious.
Never seize on the plug threads is what kept it from getting stuck to start with. It couldn’t stand the heat closer to the top
Not exactly... the long tip is where the carbon was building up and what was causing the plugs to break on the original plug design. With the one piece plugs they don't seem to break but still get that carbon build up and makes the plugs rather tight. At least on the 2004 thru Nov 2007 engines... when they changed head design.
Surprisingly I've NEVER had a spark plug do this on any of the Triton's I've worked on. Now, head gaskets on the other hand *shudder* not easy on that engine when you are in your garage with basic hand tools.
Head gaskets were a 5.4 2V issue. That and launching plugs OUT of the heads. The 5.4 3V had the exact opposite issue where the d*** plugs DIDN'T want to come out.
The 2 valve couldnt keep the plugs in so Ford went overkill and made the 3 valve where you cant get the buggers out without breaking them. I just broke one today and ordered the Lisle kit. Hope it works like it did for you. But what if the electrode breaks off with the ceramic? Will the lisle kit still work?
You can look in it with a bore scope and see. It’s rare but you can usually get it out with those griper (pick up tools) it’s a rare thing though
That’s if it falls in on top of piston
so what do you do when the tread for the spark plug is stuck down in there?
If I knew this was going to happen I wouldn’t of bought the truck
Happens to all the 3 valve engines.
If I don’t have the Dr. Pepper. Would Mt. Dew be good enough?
Yeah that’s perfect !
Great video I've also seen people use a shop vac to clean out the cylinder after the plug is removed to get out all the debris and have also seen people just turn the ignition key after the plug is out to blow out the debris before installing the new plug
does that work or will it get sucked back in?
QUESTION..Should I use a swivel just after the plug socket to help prevent breaking them off?
Thanks!
They will break either way. The best method is drive the vehicle and get it up to temp then pull it in and use a 3/8 impact to get the plugs out (I Know That Sounds STUPID) but it works and you won't break as many if any. Just a bad design on those.
@@KoonTrucking ..Thanks for the feedback man!
I've done just about every check including replacing both camshaft positioning sensors and I still have a crank no start. I was hoping not to have to pull my plugs LOL. Is it possible that the plugs can be broken off and I won't even know it? Because I removed all the coils and tested them all, the plugs look good from the top ,LOL. I'm not quite sure where they snap off eh!
Thanks again appreciate it brother! 🇨🇦
Any suggestions if you strip the metal shell with the Lisle extractor. I messed up and over tightened it
Got it! I have a 2006 F-250 with 59,000 miles on it. I broke the rear one that seems like its up under the driver's seat.
Got the Lisle tool, watched here how it's done, and it was a textbook extraction.
Awesome. Glad this helped you out
@Bill Haggard There wasn't any. The top part of the plug snaps off clean.
The tool pushes the center piece of porcelain down a little farther into the front part of the plug.
The tool works sort of like a glorified 'easy out' does for broken off bolts.
When I saw the Dr Pepper I was gonna say you need one but you said it right after lol.