youve got the most updated Lisle tool with the 4 grooves around the shaft of the extractor... im surprised it got too dull after just 2 plugs... ive done 4 plugs so far with same extractor... i did the warm engine, 1/8 turn,,, then soak for a few hours and socket wrench-all 4 broke so im going to try warm engine, impact wrench on the last 4... be so glad when this is over. Thanks for making video
Day 3 two broken plugs out. 2007 F350 no room and can’t see. The Lyle press must be pushed in all the way or the tap will not grab. Had to tapper the tap on a grinder and press down real hard with a 2x4. Back plugs are a nightmare. I made a drill guide out of the old plug but the cobalt drill was no match for the porcelain.
I see they pull the brain box and bracket out on another video, person does them hot, and uses power tools and has high percentage of them coming free, except the rear 2...
I paid $108 deposit to use the removal kit. All 8 plugs came out, each unbroken in one piece, Praise GOD! Two days later returned kit and got my money back. It wouldn't profit me anything to lie, so I tell the truth.
This is depressing as Hell but super helpful as far as removing the broken ones. But all eight! I hope I have better luck. Thanks for the video and the advice!
That tap is "worn" by design. Known as a "plug tap," the first 3-5 threads are ground/tapered even brand new. By contrast, a "bottoming tap" only tapers something like the first thread or so. Actually, having both would be excellent for this application because you could start with the tapered plug, back it out, and make sure you have as many threads as possible by using a bottoming tap in the threads you started with the first one. Now... I imagine these are specifically sized for this tool so they MAY have to be made. (Stock bottoming tap cut flush then welded to the right size shaft.) Of course, this is for anyone who has a garage and the means to weld and modify a bit. But that would be my suggestion. After 7+ years of this topic being posted, the consensus seems to be to heat the engine up first. Use neverseize high temp if you plan on keeping the truck-on the threads and a small amount on the sleeve internal to the combustion chamber. (I am leary of zinc in there, but many say to do it anyway.) Impact at a throttled state- not full-bore torque. Make sure your wells are blown out / cleaned before removing the coils, and again after removing them. Check coil boots for deformation due to oil from valve cover gaskets, and replace if swollen / deformed- this condition has been blamed for arc misfires. I have the 2006 4.6L and have NOT done this... yet. All my troubleshooting has exposed no other possible problem, and at 95k miles is definitely is missing. Another mechanic had .060" gaps on a 145k engine with original plugs. My approach will be to warm, crack all to a half turn, soak with [Ford, if I can get it,] carb cleaner, and while still warm (contrary to what Ford suggests, which is to let it sit over night,) back them out one by one using a Kobalt torque driver OFF of the impact setting. And... pucker factor 10: hopefully I won't be making love to the engine bay for three days trying to finish all 8 plugs.
This may sound like BS, but every now and then with enough lube, you can disable the fuel pump so the engine won't start then crank it a few times. Sometimes the compression will push out the porcelain intact and twice I've had it push the whole sleeve out. It doesn't hurt a thing and it only takes a minute to try it. Plus you're not sending a ton of crap into the cylinder.
Tap goes clockwise, so the plug can be put back correctly. Extractor goes counter to grab and pull it out. I never used the kit, which I had in my truck, cause all 8 came out unbroken, Praise GOD!
Just did plugs coils and plugs on my 2006 expedition. Followed all the advice about warming it up and soaking it first with some carb cleaner. #4 was a bitch but not as bad as what people made it out to be. Didn’t break a single plug. Either by luck or by good advice. I was on the fence about using an impact or not. I did it all by hand with a good amount of profanity. After all was said and done I did indeed treat myself to a hefty amount of beer.
@@AngusT.McCraken I give you props I wanted to get it done by hand too just to say I did it but I don't have the balls. Number 4 is the hardest part of the job. Had to borrow my friends right angle impact just for it.
@@jacobdecker2727 I HATE that damn motor. But it is what I got. I can’t afford a new vehicle right now. My wife is a Ford fan so everything we own is a Ford. I’m stuck having to work on them.
I got all 8 out, no breaks, it was 26° outside, 45° in shop, so didn't run it, engine was cold I sprayed a little WD40 and no air tool, just used a rachet, cheater bar and slowly turned it and back, then slow racket all the way. First time trying it after watching a video of how to use the removal kit if any broke.
I made it with only breaking 2 with over 130,000 miles on the plugs. Sucks, but I’m so glad it wasn’t 8. I would’ve started tying up a rope if it would’ve been all 8…
I have a 2007 5.4 and the spark plugs were changed about 2000km ago. I had a misfire in cylinder 2 and pulled out the spark plug but the sleeve was not on it. I cannot see it in the cylinder. Is it possible that the whole piece feel down further?
Best of my understanding, it can not go into the cylinder. Rent the removal kit and you will get it out. All 8 of mine came out unbroken. Returned kit unused and got my deposit back, Praise GOD!
just take the engineers that designed this Frankenstein ..........make them redesign the engine's back to the old design and then spank them all until the cows come home OR until everyone is issued a original design motor ; )
That would just chase the grooves, the lands are what is needed. The bite portion of the tap is the land, if it is wiped out, a die will do absolutely nothing
youve got the most updated Lisle tool with the 4 grooves around the shaft of the extractor... im surprised it got too dull after just 2 plugs... ive done 4 plugs so far with same extractor... i did the warm engine, 1/8 turn,,, then soak for a few hours and socket wrench-all 4 broke so im going to try warm engine, impact wrench on the last 4... be so glad when this is over. Thanks for making video
Day 3 two broken plugs out. 2007 F350 no room and can’t see. The Lyle press must be pushed in all the way or the tap will not grab. Had to tapper the tap on a grinder and press down real hard with a 2x4. Back plugs are a nightmare. I made a drill guide out of the old plug but the cobalt drill was no match for the porcelain.
I see they pull the brain box and bracket out on another video, person does them hot, and uses power tools and has high percentage of them coming free, except the rear 2...
I paid $108 deposit to use the removal kit. All 8 plugs came out, each unbroken in one piece, Praise GOD! Two days later returned kit and got my money back.
It wouldn't profit me anything to lie, so I tell the truth.
This is depressing as Hell but super helpful as far as removing the broken ones. But all eight! I hope I have better luck. Thanks for the video and the advice!
Im really praying this don't happen to me.great video very helpful
That tap is "worn" by design. Known as a "plug tap," the first 3-5 threads are ground/tapered even brand new. By contrast, a "bottoming tap" only tapers something like the first thread or so. Actually, having both would be excellent for this application because you could start with the tapered plug, back it out, and make sure you have as many threads as possible by using a bottoming tap in the threads you started with the first one. Now... I imagine these are specifically sized for this tool so they MAY have to be made. (Stock bottoming tap cut flush then welded to the right size shaft.) Of course, this is for anyone who has a garage and the means to weld and modify a bit. But that would be my suggestion. After 7+ years of this topic being posted, the consensus seems to be to heat the engine up first. Use neverseize high temp if you plan on keeping the truck-on the threads and a small amount on the sleeve internal to the combustion chamber. (I am leary of zinc in there, but many say to do it anyway.) Impact at a throttled state- not full-bore torque. Make sure your wells are blown out / cleaned before removing the coils, and again after removing them. Check coil boots for deformation due to oil from valve cover gaskets, and replace if swollen / deformed- this condition has been blamed for arc misfires. I have the 2006 4.6L and have NOT done this... yet. All my troubleshooting has exposed no other possible problem, and at 95k miles is definitely is missing. Another mechanic had .060" gaps on a 145k engine with original plugs.
My approach will be to warm, crack all to a half turn, soak with [Ford, if I can get it,] carb cleaner, and while still warm (contrary to what Ford suggests, which is to let it sit over night,) back them out one by one using a Kobalt torque driver OFF of the impact setting. And... pucker factor 10: hopefully I won't be making love to the engine bay for three days trying to finish all 8 plugs.
I agree. I was looking at that tap going, there's nothing wrong with it lol.
This may sound like BS, but every now and then with enough lube, you can disable the fuel pump so the engine won't start then crank it a few times. Sometimes the compression will push out the porcelain intact and twice I've had it push the whole sleeve out. It doesn't hurt a thing and it only takes a minute to try it. Plus you're not sending a ton of crap into the cylinder.
Did you soak them or heat your engine up?
I broke 3. Still trying to get 2 out. Using oem tool now after bending the pusher twice on cheap ebay lisle tool.
Is that tap a 3/8-24?
Part numbers? OEM kit number 27273 is tough to find, I see they have a 57273, perhaps updated kit? What is part number for spare Lisle 'tap' ?
Lisle puller is 65620 and is around 20 bucks on Amz
Cal-Van makes a tool like this with high reviews, 39100 waiting on Lisle tool today.. will grab that if this one fails, 60 bucks..
I have the 4.6 in a 2005 f150 am I going to have the same difficulty?
Took me about 2 hours for a friend of mine to guide me in the right direction
Ok i have a broken one in 06 town sbd county van 3.5 what do i use get it out
Great video which direction does the tap and extractor screw into the sleeve of the spark plug clock wise or counter clock wise
Tap goes clockwise, so the plug can be put back correctly. Extractor goes counter to grab and pull it out.
I never used the kit, which I had in my truck, cause all 8 came out unbroken, Praise GOD!
@@DanSmith-cb5vjWhat was your secret?
I have f150 4x4 pick up ,Ford 2door, I broke the last new spark plug .how do I take it out
That's funny a fridge full of beer or a cabinet full of liquor!
Avoid breaking these.
1. Impact wrench with at least 120ft pounds
2. Get the engine to operating temp
3. Full send
4. Break none
5. Beer
Just did plugs coils and plugs on my 2006 expedition. Followed all the advice about warming it up and soaking it first with some carb cleaner. #4 was a bitch but not as bad as what people made it out to be. Didn’t break a single plug. Either by luck or by good advice. I was on the fence about using an impact or not. I did it all by hand with a good amount of profanity. After all was said and done I did indeed treat myself to a hefty amount of beer.
@@AngusT.McCraken I give you props I wanted to get it done by hand too just to say I did it but I don't have the balls. Number 4 is the hardest part of the job. Had to borrow my friends right angle impact just for it.
@@jacobdecker2727
I HATE that damn motor. But it is what I got. I can’t afford a new vehicle right now. My wife is a Ford fan so everything we own is a Ford. I’m stuck having to work on them.
I got all 8 out, no breaks, it was 26° outside, 45° in shop, so didn't run it, engine was cold I sprayed a little WD40 and no air tool, just used a rachet, cheater bar and slowly turned it and back, then slow racket all the way. First time trying it after watching a video of how to use the removal kit if any broke.
I made it with only breaking 2 with over 130,000 miles on the plugs. Sucks, but I’m so glad it wasn’t 8. I would’ve started tying up a rope if it would’ve been all 8…
Sea foam first and warm engine
Seafoam? Run it in the fuel?
There was IMO nothing wrong that that tap. What you thought was ground off is what a non bottoming tap is supposed to look like. Nor did it look dull.
I have a 2007 5.4 and the spark plugs were changed about 2000km ago. I had a misfire in cylinder 2 and pulled out the spark plug but the sleeve was not on it. I cannot see it in the cylinder. Is it possible that the whole piece feel down further?
Best of my understanding, it can not go into the cylinder. Rent the removal kit and you will get it out. All 8 of mine came out unbroken. Returned kit unused and got my deposit back, Praise GOD!
Great video. Thanks for the information.
just take the engineers that designed this Frankenstein ..........make them redesign the engine's back to the old design and then spank them all until the cows come home OR until everyone is issued a original design motor ; )
Great review! Have a question - is there a die you could use to rethread that tap?
The kit has one.
That would just chase the grooves, the lands are what is needed. The bite portion of the tap is the land, if it is wiped out, a die will do absolutely nothing
Your poor tortured soul I can imagine the lump you had in your throat 😢
Once again another of FORD'S "BETTER IDEAS".
I just want to cry that I was dumb enough to buy one of these junk motors.
Spark plugs 5.4
1/2 impact cold engine