Is the cheese place still there in Sussex? I lived in Hampton for a few years and graduated from KV in Quispamsis. Went to Army cadets in Sussex in ‘79/80.
Thanks Ken, Your an artist very nice my good fellow ! I took my Virago out of storage but still don't have alot of drive since losing my brother already a year,Boy time is flying with all the weird stuff going on in the world in our Country & USA and around the world The insane reset & with the over kill go green . I do believe there is a God and Jesus Holy spirit .. . Hope you do too Ken . Just trying to live as best as one can . I love cars to had many old GTOs, Cobra Fairlane 429 Cobra Jet ,Mustang Boss 302, I've owned AMX 390 much more. Be safe Ken and family Ralph from West Coast BC
Thanks Ralph. Hope all is well. I'm back to work after missing a few months and will have some more videos up soon - I figured out a way to restore all the gold chrome parts and I'm just about ready to put the engine back in. Take care.
It's the line that carries the turn signal "hot" to the relay unit for both the left and right side flashers (front and rear). As far as I can see from the diagram, without it, the signal lights wouldn't flash. It's not 100% clear on the schematic if that's the intermittent flashing power/interrupt from the relay unit since I don't have any idea how the relay unit is designed.
It’s there. I have a full description on the removal and repair and how it works as well as a second video testing it all out on a drive. I’m mobile at the moment or else I would have included the links. But there are two videos on the low fuel circuit.
So, i have a 93 virago 1100 with the same right side switch. However, the switch was taken apart by the previous owner and now im stuck. Finding an OEM replacement is like pulling teeth(to keep it under 100 bucks anyway) and a universal does not have the hazard light switch or the headlight off while starting. This is the most frustrating piece to this bike. I know it rins because we just jumped the start switch and got it to turn over. But now i can't find a direct replacement for this switch set.
Try looking on eBay - if you can find one with all the working internals, you should be able to make something work with your original one. You’ll just have to try and source a used one somewhere and take the best parts from both. Try eBay first but also look at all your local or online bike source parts. Good luck with it, I know it can be frustrating but don’t give up. It’ll be worth it when you get it all back together.
I had to make them myself. They're custom water slide decals (for plastic models). I bought the sheets of white material at the hobby shop, printed black "outside" the letters (inkjet printers can't print white) with a program called Inkscape. After I cut them out and applied them on satin black paint, I put a final satin clear over top of the decal. Here’s the video ua-cam.com/video/zEvt6ZzzdLE/v-deo.htmlsi=yn9CbcAq4nDQlvjk
I used this product: "www.bare-metal.com/experts-choice-decal-film.html". Item number 120. Since printers can't print white, I opted for the white and printed black outline text to cover the white making it look like white text on black. I used Inkscape (free) and chose a font size/shape closest to original. I cut them out and applied them as you would water slide decals on a plastic model. Last step was a satin clear that was UV stable. I made a video you can see here: ua-cam.com/video/zEvt6ZzzdLE/v-deo.html
Všechno je to originál. Starý jsem jen rozebral a dal jsem pozor, abych nic nepoškodil. Kontaktní spínač startéru je stále poškozený, takže jsem musel vytáhnout osvětlení přístrojů ze světlometu.
Dear KensWorld I have a doubt about this turn signal switch on my XV 7501996 . From what I understood in the manual, after turning on the left or right arrow, it should automatically turn off, but on my bike this is not happening... .. it stays on all the time and it only turns off if you press the button in the central position. Does yours work like that too? I even remembered that NTC that warns of low fuel level that you changed in yours, and then I imagined that connecting it in series with something would heat up and turn off those blinkers. But I didn't notice anything like that on this key you took apart. Thanks
The self-cancelling signal light system has a number of parts. When you turn the signal light on, it sends a signal to the relay unit through the ignition module (TCI unit) and a counter (timer) begins. The second input is the reed switch (small sensor inside the speedo) and this goes to the TCI unit so that the circuit can tell if the bike is moving or not. If the bike is stationary (like at a red light) the reed switch in the speedo doesn't register any change and the signal light keeps flashing. Once you begin to move, the signal from the reed switch is sensed at the TCI unit and the counting logic starts. It's not very accurate but after about 100 meters or 10 seconds, the TCI unit then sends a pulse to the relay unit to turn off the flasher. That's how it's supposed to work. If the reed switch is damaged (it's glass and very delicate) or any of the wires, connectors or relays are faulty, then the self-cancelling feature won't work. I hope this helps. You can find the electrical diagrams really helpful.
@@KensWorldRestorations oh yes I understand... Kensworld I didn't think it could have all this logic involved, which by the way is very coherent. I'm going to give a general evaluation of the system, starting with the blinker relay (see if it's the bike's original). Then, if it is correct, I will check these pulses generated by this switch on the speedometer (reed swith) with the front wheel of the suspended motorcycle in motion. I believe that this TCI timer will only start counting if it is confirmed that the bike is moving as you said, and then what happens first will cancel the blinker relay (time x meters travelled). Thank you very much
I had to make them myself. I tried looking for the “Letraset” brand small vinyl letters but couldn’t find them. Then I remembered a technique I used with small plastic models. The water release type. I found blank sheets of water release decals that you can print on an ink jet and then spray a clear over it, cut them out and apply with water. I did that using a font as close to the oem size and style (reverse white so I printed them in black leaving the white paper image). Applied them like the plastic model decal then clear coat over the decal. Sounds like a lot of work because it was. But I now have a spare sheet for my FZR restoration project. 😀
Awesome Ken. Thanks for your help. I'm doing a full restoration on a 1984 XL600. My controls are faded and wanted to restore. Yes lots of work but labour of love. I will try your suggestion and see if it works. I would need red letters on a clear background. Good luck with your restorations!
@@Gabriel-unicorn depending on where you're located, a local print shop or vinyl graphics place might hook you up with some red on clear or red on black vinyl that will be thin enough to use for this purpose. Once you bury the graphics in a satin clear, they look nearly OEM. Cool bike too...that machine is what eventually got me onto the Suzuki DR650 when I was living in San Diego in the late 90's.
Thanks again for the advice on the vinyl. I think the water transfer may be better. I will try that first. Until you mentioned it, I had no idea that you can do your own water transfers. So your video and written help was very much appreciated. The XL600 was purchased new when I was 16. During COVID me and my son restored/modded a 1974 Z50. Now it's the XL600's turn. The 600 will be restored not modified at all. I think we will have it done by end of summer this year. We have been working on it for about 2 years on and off. All parts are stripped, painted, rechromed or re- nickel plated. It's lots of fun. These days with distracted drivers, I would only street ride locally. The DR650 is another beautiful machine. It must have been great riding in California. We are in Toronto Canada....and I'm about to go to the garage, turn on the heater, the music and start working. Thanks again and I will update you much later on the waterslide transfer decals. Gabe.
@@Gabriel-unicorn Hey Gab...I'm in Calgary and travel to/through Toronto quite regularly. I lived in Georgetown and Kingston years ago...small world. Shoot me an email at kensworldrestorations@gmail.com.
Nice work! I'm glad i'm not the only crazy bugger to disassemble switches. Tedious and time consuming but worth the effort. Cheers from Sussex NB!
Is the cheese place still there in Sussex? I lived in Hampton for a few years and graduated from KV in Quispamsis. Went to Army cadets in Sussex in ‘79/80.
Thanks!! Yeah, I knew I wasn’t going to be able to leave those as they were…it’s all working like new now.
@@KensWorldRestorations Small world. Are you thinking of Armadale Farm Cheese Shoppe? The smell of the place will knock you over. LOL.
@@bradcrossman5068 My memory must be fading…it was an ice cream place that was pretty popular…not a cheese place. Yeah, definitely a small world!
Thanks Ken, Your an artist very nice my good fellow ! I took my Virago out of storage but still don't have alot of drive since losing my brother already a year,Boy time is flying with all the weird stuff going on in the world in our Country & USA and around the world The insane reset & with the over kill go green . I do believe there is a God and Jesus Holy spirit .. . Hope you do too Ken . Just trying to live as best as one can . I love cars to had many old GTOs, Cobra Fairlane 429 Cobra Jet ,Mustang Boss 302, I've owned AMX 390 much more.
Be safe Ken and family
Ralph from West Coast BC
Thanks Ralph. Hope all is well. I'm back to work after missing a few months and will have some more videos up soon - I figured out a way to restore all the gold chrome parts and I'm just about ready to put the engine back in. Take care.
Do you know what the red/yellow wire is for the one over the turng signal wires
It's the line that carries the turn signal "hot" to the relay unit for both the left and right side flashers (front and rear). As far as I can see from the diagram, without it, the signal lights wouldn't flash. It's not 100% clear on the schematic if that's the intermittent flashing power/interrupt from the relay unit since I don't have any idea how the relay unit is designed.
where is your vid on the low fuel sensor ? been looking and cant find it, or maybe you dont have it listed ?
It’s there. I have a full description on the removal and repair and how it works as well as a second video testing it all out on a drive. I’m mobile at the moment or else I would have included the links. But there are two videos on the low fuel circuit.
So, i have a 93 virago 1100 with the same right side switch. However, the switch was taken apart by the previous owner and now im stuck. Finding an OEM replacement is like pulling teeth(to keep it under 100 bucks anyway) and a universal does not have the hazard light switch or the headlight off while starting. This is the most frustrating piece to this bike. I know it rins because we just jumped the start switch and got it to turn over. But now i can't find a direct replacement for this switch set.
Try looking on eBay - if you can find one with all the working internals, you should be able to make something work with your original one. You’ll just have to try and source a used one somewhere and take the best parts from both. Try eBay first but also look at all your local or online bike source parts. Good luck with it, I know it can be frustrating but don’t give up. It’ll be worth it when you get it all back together.
Where did you get the switch decals?
I had to make them myself. They're custom water slide decals (for plastic models). I bought the sheets of white material at the hobby shop, printed black "outside" the letters (inkjet printers can't print white) with a program called Inkscape. After I cut them out and applied them on satin black paint, I put a final satin clear over top of the decal. Here’s the video ua-cam.com/video/zEvt6ZzzdLE/v-deo.htmlsi=yn9CbcAq4nDQlvjk
Ken question what did you use for white letters and where did yuou buy it?
I used this product: "www.bare-metal.com/experts-choice-decal-film.html". Item number 120. Since printers can't print white, I opted for the white and printed black outline text to cover the white making it look like white text on black. I used Inkscape (free) and chose a font size/shape closest to original. I cut them out and applied them as you would water slide decals on a plastic model. Last step was a satin clear that was UV stable. I made a video you can see here: ua-cam.com/video/zEvt6ZzzdLE/v-deo.html
Ahoj Ken, kde se ti podařilo sehnat vnitřek spínače směrových světel ? Díky za info.Ať se daří
Všechno je to originál. Starý jsem jen rozebral a dal jsem pozor, abych nic nepoškodil. Kontaktní spínač startéru je stále poškozený, takže jsem musel vytáhnout osvětlení přístrojů ze světlometu.
Dear KensWorld
I have a doubt about this turn signal switch on my XV 7501996 .
From what I understood in the manual, after turning on the left or right arrow, it should automatically turn off, but on my bike this is not happening... .. it stays on all the time and it only turns off if you press the button in the central position.
Does yours work like that too?
I even remembered that NTC that warns of low fuel level that you changed in yours, and then I imagined that connecting it in series with something would heat up and turn off those blinkers. But I didn't notice anything like that on this key you took apart.
Thanks
The self-cancelling signal light system has a number of parts. When you turn the signal light on, it sends a signal to the relay unit through the ignition module (TCI unit) and a counter (timer) begins. The second input is the reed switch (small sensor inside the speedo) and this goes to the TCI unit so that the circuit can tell if the bike is moving or not. If the bike is stationary (like at a red light) the reed switch in the speedo doesn't register any change and the signal light keeps flashing. Once you begin to move, the signal from the reed switch is sensed at the TCI unit and the counting logic starts. It's not very accurate but after about 100 meters or 10 seconds, the TCI unit then sends a pulse to the relay unit to turn off the flasher. That's how it's supposed to work. If the reed switch is damaged (it's glass and very delicate) or any of the wires, connectors or relays are faulty, then the self-cancelling feature won't work. I hope this helps. You can find the electrical diagrams really helpful.
@@KensWorldRestorations oh yes I understand... Kensworld
I didn't think it could have all this logic involved, which by the way is very coherent.
I'm going to give a general evaluation of the system, starting with the blinker relay (see if it's the bike's original).
Then, if it is correct, I will check these pulses generated by this switch on the speedometer (reed swith) with the front wheel of the suspended motorcycle in motion.
I believe that this TCI timer will only start counting if it is confirmed that the bike is moving as you said, and then what happens first will cancel the blinker relay (time x meters travelled).
Thank you very much
Hey Ken, where did you get your control decals from?
I had to make them myself. I tried looking for the “Letraset” brand small vinyl letters but couldn’t find them. Then I remembered a technique I used with small plastic models. The water release type. I found blank sheets of water release decals that you can print on an ink jet and then spray a clear over it, cut them out and apply with water. I did that using a font as close to the oem size and style (reverse white so I printed them in black leaving the white paper image). Applied them like the plastic model decal then clear coat over the decal. Sounds like a lot of work because it was. But I now have a spare sheet for my FZR restoration project. 😀
Awesome Ken. Thanks for your help. I'm doing a full restoration on a 1984 XL600. My controls are faded and wanted to restore. Yes lots of work but labour of love. I will try your suggestion and see if it works. I would need red letters on a clear background. Good luck with your restorations!
@@Gabriel-unicorn depending on where you're located, a local print shop or vinyl graphics place might hook you up with some red on clear or red on black vinyl that will be thin enough to use for this purpose. Once you bury the graphics in a satin clear, they look nearly OEM. Cool bike too...that machine is what eventually got me onto the Suzuki DR650 when I was living in San Diego in the late 90's.
Thanks again for the advice on the vinyl. I think the water transfer may be better. I will try that first. Until you mentioned it, I had no idea that you can do your own water transfers. So your video and written help was very much appreciated.
The XL600 was purchased new when I was 16. During COVID me and my son restored/modded a 1974 Z50. Now it's the XL600's turn. The 600 will be restored not modified at all. I think we will have it done by end of summer this year. We have been working on it for about 2 years on and off. All parts are stripped, painted, rechromed or re- nickel plated. It's lots of fun.
These days with distracted drivers, I would only street ride locally.
The DR650 is another beautiful machine. It must have been great riding in California. We are in Toronto Canada....and I'm about to go to the garage, turn on the heater, the music and start working. Thanks again and I will update you much later on the waterslide transfer decals.
Gabe.
@@Gabriel-unicorn Hey Gab...I'm in Calgary and travel to/through Toronto quite regularly. I lived in Georgetown and Kingston years ago...small world. Shoot me an email at kensworldrestorations@gmail.com.