Electrical System (Part 1) - Yamaha Virago 1000 Restoration Video 13
Вставка
- Опубліковано 6 сер 2024
- Electrical System Highlights:
0:00 Where to begin?
1:25 Getting the old tape off the loom
2:40 Break in the fuel pump ground wire
4:05 Cleaning the wiring harness in the ultrasonlc cleaner
7:29 Putting a new loom on the wire harness
9:38 Putting the restored harness back on the bike
13:47 Identifying all the relays & fuses
17:45 Installing the headlight and running the connections
18:37 Installing the front signal lights
Next video for everyone to chew on is everyone's favourite subject, electrical & wiring stuff! Yay!
When I pulled the loom off the bike, I knew that my back lighting in the instruments wasn't working and that there was some wires that had been chafed on the fuel pump connection. I pulled all the electrical tape off the loom and removed the loom from the harness and repaired the damaged wires and cleaned the harness and connectors. While trying to repair and overhaul all the switches, I noticed that one of the contacts on the starter switch was damaged beyond repair - that's the source for the lighting in the speedo and tach, which explains why it wasn't working. I ended up tying into the lighting circuit and got the gauges backlit again.
There is about a month of work condensed in this but I've also got enough raw video on the handlebar control switches to make another video. Think I might do that...I don't think that just one electrical video is enough to bore you to death.
If you have any questions or would like to comment, please do so.
Thanks for watching
Music By TuneTank
tunetank.com_493_natural-world_by_cinematic-alex
tunetank.com_2267_lifestyle_by_edrecords
tunetank.com_5620_wind-of-change_by_roman-bee
tunetank.com_5635_shine-on-the-waves_by_isaevilnarmusic
tunetank.com_5666_night-shift_by_rocknstock
tunetank.com_5689_so-much-fun_by_alexey-anisimov - Авто та транспорт
Damn I have a 85 1000 sitting in my garage apart waiting to be put together for ten years and I find these videos lol
I hope they help you out! I'd love to know that there's another Virago back on the road.
Very good Ken !! Can't wait to see it done .. Ralph west coast BC
Thanks Ralph! I've been home for almost 2 months now off work so I got a lot done...just trying to catch up with the content. I'll be uploading another electrical video next week - all on the switches and controls. Cheers!
Great video series! Next week I am dropping the engine out of my 85'. I'm stripping it to the frame, then almost everything is off for powder coating
Great minds think alike...If I was doing it again, I'd probably powder coat rather than paint the frame...good choice.
@@KensWorldRestorations yup, I am biased. I used to powder coat, got a buddy who still does. So he's gonna hook me up, doin the tank, frame, most of the chrome, swing arm, etc.
I have a xj750m and I hit the start button and everything died and stayed dead. Everything is dead. The only thing not dead is the battery. I have power up to the key switch and no where else. This video solved my problem... The start switch if fouled out. I've been down for 3 weeks looking and looking and looking... I hope it works.
I hope it works too. Nothing more frustrating than trying to chase electrical gremlins around. I didn't have any instrument (tach/speedo) lights when I got the bike - turns out that they are powered through the start switch. One of my contacts (there's 4 of them) in the start switch got corroded and damaged the contact. The way it works is when you press the start switch, it closes the contact for the starter relay but opens another contact for the lights in order to conserve battery power during starting. So much for good engineering but they do that to save money during manufacturing. Those contacts are not weather sealed very well. I'd have a look at that switch to see how it's faring out. Thanks for the nice comment. K
Way to go 👍
Thanks!! I have another one coming soon - electrical part 2 - were I show how to repair and restore the handlebar control switches. Should up in a few days.
awesome video!! I have a Virago 750 1986 not running.
trying to check electrical components (mechanic almost ruined mi bike It was running just needed to replace diaphragms!? on carbs that was it now it wont start,
I open the switch and I hear the relay clicking but the solenoid relay and starter do nothing at all.
when pressing starter button my lights go dimmed.
hope I can get it up and running thanks for the vid. makes me fell more confident checking wiring. ( to start).
There's so many links in the ignition chain that all need to be all working together. Check the side stand switch - if it is even unplugged the main relay won't close and there will be no logic output to the starter relay. Same goes for the clutch switch. Make sure all the electrical connections to the solenoid are sound (big wire runs under the engine) and just make sure every connector you can see is clean and connected. Look for obvious signs of wire chafing. If you don't already have a service manual, get one from one of the online forums - they have all the schematics for your year. Good luck!
I was cranking our 88 virago 750 tonight. I heard a soft pop and lost all power. I think I'll check the main fuse and starting relays
Yep...sounds like you blew a main fuse alright. The relays are pretty hardy and you can easily bypass them if you need to isolate that part of the system. Good luck with it all and let us all know when you get it fixed.
Nice! I have a red wire coming off the blue connection to the tail and signal lights that is going no where. No idea what that was for!
I had a couple of strays also...turned out to be for extra lighting so I just removed it. The light blue wire under the seat near the diode unit is the neutral wire but the darker blue with a black stripe is usually lighting. Be careful with strays like that because they are usually live +12V as soon as the bike is switched on. If they touch the frame and short, it'll cause all kinds of problems.
@@KensWorldRestorations I'll have to remove it and tape it up!
I would like to understand the wires that goes to the control box
Yeah...me too. I know what goes in and I sort of know what comes out but how it does that is still a bit of a mystery. The ignition timing is the mothership of control with this box. The vacuum signal from the boost sensor, engine RPM (and sometimes throttle position) inputs are what changes the ignition timing. There's obviously some code on the main computer chip. The ignition modules are unobtanium parts now but there is a company (I believe in Poland) that has reverse engineered it and made it better than stock.
trying to figure out the horn circuit, i upgraded my horn but when idling they dont get enough power but at speed they work fine. i was told to wire in a relay for the horn however i have no idea how.
Horns not working on a Virago when the engine is off is quite normal. Mine does it too. It did it back in 1984 when the bike was new too. There isn't any reason to mess around with the wiring - just know that it can be a nuisance fault. There is an adjustment screw you can try setting in the back of the horn - be careful - a small adjustment makes a big difference.
Hi Ken I'm back! So I have a problem with my indicators. Mine have a blue wire a red and a black and when I switch on my park light or headlight the left hand indicator is on as well but not the right. The indicator doesn't come on when I unplug the blue wire and turn on the park light or headlight. I'm wondering if this has something to do with the running wire you mentioned. The loom as been cut open by previous owner I assume for spotlights and poorly patched up. Also there is a wire spliced into one of the wires leading to the park light (this wire goes back into the loom not to the headlight) and I'm wondering if that's normal. This is and Aussie delivered bike and seems to have different coloured wires. Any help/advice you can provide would be much appreciated!!
Also I just watched Controls switches and My bike has a right hand switch block that has park light and headlight on switch but no hazards switch and my manual shows a hazards setup but no park light.
Hey Donny! Probably best if we take this to email - that way I can share images and documents with you. My UA-cam email is kensworldrestorations@gmail.com. As I understand it, it's just your front running lights that don't work - the flashing signal light part is ok? For the front indicators, as you know they require 3 wires (the back indicators only require two wires). The front two indicators share a common ground and a common running light circuit. These two connections are made in the headlamp. The common ground is black and the common running light should be blue with a black stripe. The remaining 2 wires will be unique to each side in order to light up the signal portion of the indicator - the brighter side of the two filaments in the light bulb. I believe one is dark green and one is brown. That comes from the main loom (the source is the relay unit under the seat) and the final connection for both the right side and the left side is also made in the headlamp. If someone has bitched it up, you might have to go looking for the broken wire. In any case, you can tap the running light to the non-working side from the working side - that's how it's done in the loom - and you can do that right in the headlamp. Does your two signal lights work ok?
Hi ken I am having a problem with my bike I replaced the wiring harness because the kid I bought the bike from had spliced the shit out of the wiring harness and I have bought a parts bike and pulled the wiring harness out of the parts bike and got it put in My bike but now I am having a issue with it because all the lights are working properly and I can get the bike started but when I shift out of neutral it kills the engine I am thinking it has something to do with the kick stand switch but I am not sure what would caused my issue the bike ran fine before I changed the wiring harness I just didn't have my lights but now I can't shift it into gear without it killing the engine
So there’s a few places to look. The side stand switch itself, the side stand relay (under the seat) or the neutral switch connector (under the engine). With the bike on and in neutral (but the engine not running) and the clutch out, put your side stand up and down. You should be able to hear the relay clicking on and off. If nothing happens, your side stand switch isn’t activating the relay. If the side stand switch isn’t plugged in properly, the relay (and everything downstream) will think the side stand is down. Focus on the switch, where it plugs in to the harness, the wires up to the relay, the relay itself (make sure it’s seated) and anything else that looks out of place. Check to make sure the neutral wire is connected too. Good luck…
Ken, my newest hero, great video! I just replaced the right handlebar control switch and have a wire the previous owner/mechanic has left just hanging. I just watched your video and did not see that wire any chance you can assist me in identifying it? Mine is an 84 Virago 1000.
Hey Terry...have a look at the switch video I made when I restored the actual handlebar control switches...tell me if you see anything familiar or at odds. Email me at kensworldrestorations@gmail.com if you have any pics you want me to look at. Cheers.
ua-cam.com/video/PehWXuIgCKI/v-deo.html
@@KensWorldRestorations Thanks again for the response. I was away and just got back to find it. The point at which your link started the video is exactly the two wires (brown and green w/yellow stripe) are the two. The issue is, is that it is the other end of those two wires, the plug end. What does it go to? It is just hanging there. looks to be a bit damaged, but won't know until I can find the female recipient.
@@terryirick1388 Just looked at the schematic (I'm at work so I don't have access to all my documents at home). Those two wire colors you describe are the front brake light switch. There should be a connection on the handle bar where the switch is and that goes to the main harness. Email me at kensworldrestorations@gmail.com and I can email you the schematic.
Odd I don't have a starter relay either the blue thing only the side stand relay. There is a mounting point for it but no wires coming off the loom for it, strange.
That is strange - I just looked at all the model years from 84 to 99 and all the bikes' schematics show both a starter relay and a sidestand relay. Maybe it was relocated within the relay unit or if there appears to be a lot of mods to the wiring, it could be bypassed if it failed and someone couldn't find a replacement. Starter relay is only 4 wires and usually sends one signal to the fuel pump control unit, one to the relay unit and one to the starter solenoid. Do you have a service manual?
@@KensWorldRestorations Sounds like I may need to pull it all apart to see what goes on. I have a 1981-1992 Clymer manual All the pictures look to show a slightly different setup
Wait I seem to have them backwards sorry! rewatched the video and it's just the sidestand relay that has been deleted from the loom!
@@91donwilson That sounds more like it. This could be normal actually - some of the newer bikes have the sidestand relay built-in to the relay unit, even when the schematic shows that it's separate. If your bike won't start with the sidestand down and in gear then your sidestand relay is part of your relay unit. If your bike will start and run with it in gear and the side stand down (clutch pulled in obviously) then the relay has been bypassed somehow. That happens often since parts are scarce and this sidestand logic will not only disable the starting circuit, but the the engine will quit if it's not working properly.
@@KensWorldRestorations Great info thankyou
I got a loose wire on the tci on the wheel well casue bike to miss fire ans run like shit
Well that sucks. Not much you can do for that but hit it with some contact cleaner.
@KensWorldRestorations have you ever replace the connector or upgraded the tci at all ?
@@BigDaddyNewsWI Yeah, I have. The 2 connectors are just a large array of spade connectors - don't quote me on the size but I think they are 7.8mm. If the TCI side of the connector breaks, you're pooched but if the wiring harness side breaks you can use a tool to remove the connector from the nylon block (or just cut the wire) and crimp/solder a spade connector on the end of the wire. If one breaks, you'll have to do all of them on that block. Depending on your year/displacement, it's either 4 or 6 connectors per block. As far as upgrading the TCI, there's a place called "regulatorrectifier.com" that makes aftermarket TCIs for Viragos. They're not cheap but they are a better design than stock ones.
@@KensWorldRestorations awesome thank you
Hey, what is a starter switch? Are you talking about the key switch? Where is it located?
When I talk about the starter switch here I'm just talking about the red push button start switch on the handlebar control.
@@KensWorldRestorations I have the problem you were taking about. My battery is perfectly good (over 12.6 volts). I also get an ohms reading anywhere on the bike, but when I turn the ignition, not a single thing powers on. How do I go about fixing the switch then? Do I take it completely apart and clean it or do I replace it?
@@joshh30 Sounds like you'll have to start from the beginning. Make sure the ignition switch is plugged in and the connection is clean. Then I'd go after the main fuse under the seat (far right side) and make sure you have power going through it. From there, go looking for power going to the main relay from the main fuse. If your ignition switch is ok and the fuse is ok then you should hear the main relay clicking on and off when you turn the key switch (ignition) on. Also, check the main connection (big red wire with a white connector). Look for other signs too - when you turn the ignition switch on, the lights should all come on too.
To check the ignition switch, do I access it through the headlight? I’ve checked the main fuse and it’s wires, they look good. I’ve unplugged the main relay and tested it’s connectors on both sides with a multimeter and it looked good, is that what you mean by that? Thanks by the way for responding, you are more help than anyone or anything I’ve found so far.
@@joshh30 Yes, the ignition switch is plugged into a socket that's inside the headlight. Have a good look at all my electrical videos and see where everything goes. Your 750 won't have some of the wiring systems (like the fuel pump stuff) but for troubleshooting a bad ignition switch, main fuse or main relay, this should help. I hope you have a schematic specific to your year/engine size. Yes, just checking the continuity at this point is all you can do. You are very welcome...I'm home from work right now and have lots of time now. Hope all of the videos are helping you out. Thanks for the kind words.
Electrical grease on plugs..