The first 1,000 people to use my link will get a full year of Premium membership to Woodworkers Guild of America for only $1.49: go.wwgoa.com/encurtis/
I’m an old retired DIY guy who catches every new video you put out. I worried about my short time memory loss when it began a couple years ago. Now I’ve found it a blessing as I can go back to any and all your videos and they are brand new to me 😊.
Gen X checking in. I greatly appreciate that you acknowledge safety without being a nanny about it. Actually blocked one luthier's channel because he said in a video that "I'm not going to show me using the router because routers are dangerous and I don't want to encourage anyone to use it". The world needs less of that "I'm going to protect you from yourself because I'm better than you" vibe.
For getting laps at 09:36 : Raise the blade flipping every time. You'll make a tiny tenon. Keep raising and flipping until the tiny tenon falls off or is just a whisker. Then you are exactly half your material height.
I watch tons of UA-cam videos and never make a comment, but I will make an exception to your page. I found you several months ago and I truly look forward to your new videos. Everyone is very informative and entertaining. I love your format and how it feels like you are talking to us. Keep up the good work and I'll be looking forward to the next one.
Also, great video - great joint. I used full laps (bridle joint?) on my hand tool cabinet doors. After 10 years - with my chisels and spoke shaves hanging on them - all my reveals are still nice and even. Thanks for the great content, as usual.
I really appreciate it when you show your "Brain Farts" (mistakes)! I am a longtime hobbyist and recovering shop teacher. I make a ton of mistakes and it frustrates me, kind of like I am the only woodworker who makes mistakes. Your honesty really helps my attitude when I am in the shop. There are a few UA-camrs who honestly show reality. Keep up the amazing work.
Love your posts, I find myself looking forward to end of week to see if there will be a new video. Must also say if I’m feeling really frustrated with a current project, that I can always get some motivation from watching on of your videos . Now for the negative, my only complaint is having to wait up to 2 weeks for new episodes and wish they were a bit longer, I know you have patreon now but being on a fixed income I can’t really swing it yet. Anyways keep it up love the channel .
Thanks for another great video! There is one detail you skipped however. You left a 1/8" gap between the frame and the panel. Was that for aesthetic reasons or to accommodate for the panel's expansion. Since you glued the panel to the frame, I am thinking it is not structural but I am not sure. In any case, it would be helpful to discuss wood movement for a framed panel like this in another video. There is very little on this online.
I'm particularly partial to the bridle joint and have used it almost exclusively for more than 40 years. Thousands of doors from small boxes to cabinet doors to oversized entry doors.
@@ENCurtis That's bridle as in equine harnesses and the like. That's OK. We all have times when words are hard. I cut my bridle joints closely enough that smaller doors hold together against a fair amount of stress before any glue is added to the equation. A quick scrape of the surfaces to be glued, a check for square, and the lightest of clamping results in a nice quick, clean assembly.
hi Ed, your one of my favorite Woodworker. Being an non native speaker and only an hobby woodworker your mixture of craftsmanship, design and comments on live in general combined with your clear articulation makes your videos a joy to watch. Best greetings from Germany Christian
Hi Christian, I’d try greeting you with the German I learned in high school almost 40 years ago but my brain doesn’t work in multiple languages like yours. I say all that because I don’t want it to sound like I’m trying to belittle you in any way when I let you know his name is Erik, not Ed. Hope you enjoy the rest of your weekend👍
Great video. This is an excellent level-up tutorial on panel frame construction. Also, love that you include the mistakes and fixes. Unrelated, the podcast is fantastic. As an aspiring maker, I’ve appreciated the perspectives on how we grow and evolve in the craft. Thank you for the effort in creating awesome content!
I built our screen door with half-laps and dowels. It’s a HUGE 1970’s custom door. So, I had to make it myself. Unless, we wanted to pay a few hundred dollars. Used 1/2 redwood. That door is used and abused all day being a back door! SLAM SLAM SLAM! Still holding together after four years. 😊
Wood workers of America, now that brings back memories from years ago and I am still a member. They do come up with new content and it goes well with a time of coffee and zoning out, then there is the makers mob with a good selection guys.
As ever superb skill and interaction, mistakes are part of life and should never be hidden that's the beauty of "hand made by humans" which adds soul to a piece.
Some table saws have a very convenient 5/8" nut-washer thingy to stabilize tick dado configurations like in this video, you should get one for your table saw (e.g Woodpecker's Dado Nut)
Out of a number of channels I subscribe too. Yours is the only one I don't skip a minute. And, and I've heard that some people set the speed to x1.5. Some to x2 speed which is crazy. Anyhow your 'Average view duration' must be super long. Something I would like to get right without using music. Not easy. Have a wonderful day ❤️ Jamie
THANK YOU for showing different ways to do the same-ish thing - ALSO love showing of errors and how to fix (lord knows I need to know how all the different ways... ) Cheers!
Long time fan, first time commenter. This is a great video as always but I just wanted to compliment you on the shirt choices you often make. They're just so darn cool sometimes.
That half-lap panel for the double garage doors at my parents sounds like an option.. Nice timing on this video for myself :) And was still in the top1k clicks, best 2$ spent in a while.. with a 9$ Gold upgrade to go with it.. ;) Keep these video's coming! :)
Love your videos. The centring idea is simple and yet so effective. Your video has made me think (not common). If you had the groove only in the mitred portion of the lapped mitre it would not show and it would mitre join an internal moulding on the frame corners. I'd still have to mitre the moulding joint on a central rail though. Thank you for the shove.
Great video - As you know, there are more than 3 ways.... Besides the bridle joint mentioned above, there's an actual haunched Mortise & Tenon, and, of course, using Dominos or dowels. The discussion of using A) stopped grooves versus B) a joint that fills in the groove (stub tenons as you did, or haunched M&T) versus C) Not caring since the exposed groove end won't show is, I think, worth yet another video. BTW, what joint did you choose for the front door, where the edges would be exposed when the door is open?
I agree stub tenon is a great way to go but as I trained as an English cabinet maker I was always taught to use a haunch but I I understand why you wouldn’t on a back panel as the end grain wont been seen when installed into you carcass but force of habit I guess and as your so rightly said pride of work they may not know its there but I will
I got to you late this week. But I got to you nun the less. Great video. I always enjoy the coffee references. I sometimes feel that it's a shutout. But it could be a stretch. But I'll take it. See you on the next. Take care.
Used your link to look as the WWGA but it looks like their vides average 5-7 minutes and given the topics, between you and The Wood Whisperer, Tamar and a few others, that I get better instruction here. That’s partially because all of you make the content not only instructional but also engaging and entertaining. Would like to see you also do more series similar to ones you did in the past following a project from inception to conclusion.
Hi Erik - great tips - looks so much better than a plywood backing! Thank you for sharing. Can I please ask what hearing protection you use / recommend?
I appreciate that you took the time to show different methods. As someone with only handtools right now, I'm leaning toward the half lap since it's easier, but with the addition of a peg.
Hi Erik, my partner loves the monster mug you are always drinking from, where did you buy it/who made it? Keen to help her track down its source 😊 Thanks!
I ordered a membership to WWG. Thanks for the coupon! Quick question. I’ve been trying to tell from the video, are you fitting the panel into rabbet’s on the back or simply butting it up to the back of the self and attaching it there? May be a dumb question but was just curious. And how and where do you attach yours? Glue or nail in the middle to allow for expansion? Got to say, that panel is sexy for sure 👍
Awesome video! I'm new to this channel, and found myself starting to watch more of your videos, Erik. I thoroughly enjoy your teaching methods, and this video is no exception! I do have a question though.. at around the 26:27 mark, you are using liquid hide glue. Is there a specific reason for this? I looked online for differences between this and your typical Titebond type glue, and from what I gather, hide glue can be more brittle and even allow one to separate the joint without needing to damage the wood it bonds.. so I wonder if you used this in case you need to make some wood separations afterwards? That could be a cool future video, featuring hide glue and pros/cons of using it. In any case, thanks for these videos! Great quality and very informative!
Modern hide glue is pretty on par with your standard yellow glue structurally speaking. It's main advantage is that is has a longer open working time. Then why not use hide glue as that standard? That's mainly due to the hide glue not being able to handle water which is why it can become brittle. Also a little water and steam will let you pop out that joint. So advantages and disadvantages based on the operative application. Making a bookshelf that will sit in my home I'll use hide glue, for cutting board go with your titebound3. Or it could be that's just what he had on hand. 🤷♂
Hide glue definitely has its limitations but liquid hide glue, as David pointed out, has an open time of close to 40 minutes in good conditions. In this case I wanted be able to center the panels once the assembly was together without the yellow glue seizing the panel in the groove.
Nice work, but what about that space i was tough you must leave in a floating door panel, so it’s was all not necessary? After all this years of getting the math right in the cabinet doors, it was a waist of time? Dang it, well forget about them from now on, nice content
It’s an excellent lesson in various techniques. I would just say that sometimes, the “strongest” technique is not needed. If you feel you need a joint to sustain (as a pure example) 1 tonne of force, then is the joint that will take 3 tonnes more useful than the one that will take 2 tonnes? And if that 2 tonne joint allows you quicker (that may mean cheaper) joints, then does that speed overrule unnecessary additional strength? In part, it comes back to “just because you can, doesn’t mean you should”. I think of that mostly in terms of design (I can make a complicate design but does that mean I should or that it’s better) but it can be relevant to aspects such as joints. In years gone by, I would almost always use a M&T joint because it is relatively easy to do and should be very strong. Now that my body objects to the use of the Morticer, I do use one of the dominos. I can’t see that a M&T joint is necessarily stronger than a domino joint and I’ve never had ones, made properly, of either style fail. The mantra of “just go and make something” is a phrase I wholly agree with. To get people started, then they should commence the journey to understand all the joint options but know that the simple one is almost certainly fit for purpose
@encurtis would you, at some point, consider talking at greater length about how you account for wood movement in glue-up and groove-depth? When I’ve done frame/panel doors for cabinets, it’s been recommended to me to always leave a bit of a gap, and to not glue in the panel; but that seems (a) to be different to what you’re saying you’d do with visible joinery; (b) maybe unnecessary when the stiles and panel are oriented the same direction in terms of grain? Anyways, super curious to hear more. : )
Will certainly do a video on that at some point. How I calculate how much room they need for expansion differs by species and grain orientation, but for now I’ll say the panels are only glued in the center 3” or so and have about 3/16” of space to expand into the frame.
You can use ChatGPT to figure out how much movement you need to accommodate. If you haven’t used it before, you want to use as much specific information as you can but be concise. An example of what I mean would be: Calculate the amount of wood movement for a 24 inch wide panel made from kiln dried soft maple with 3 boards that are .75 inches thick and 8 inches wide.
I'm curious if this is the build for a class you are teaching? I saw you and Larissa Huff are teaching together, and I would love to have joined the class, but it wasn't in the cards for me to attend.
Thanks, I feel like i'm stepping away with a better understanding and idea of the way to get it right. I hope that makes sense to you. Thank you for all your time and effort. 1in7
Skipped English and grammar class too 😂 finally someone who speaks like i does LOL JIC 😂😂 I mean JK appears words and acronyms are hard 😂😂 Love your content and humor! @ENCurtis
On the frame & panel part, how do you keep a consistent gap between the panel and the rails/stiles and yet still allow a gap in the slot for wood movement?
The panels are only glued in the center 3” or so and have about 3/16” of space to expand into the frame. Then I use playing cards as spacers during the glue up to ensure even spacing.
Question, how do you keep the rabbit detail of your flush panel centered? I am assuming that it's floating.. also, that is a good looking back panel. Cheers.
if it is the same thickness, glue and flush with each other, why not just glue a few boards together? I thought frame and panel construction is to reduce the weight while still maintaining most of the strength and also have a few floating board for seasonal movement?
Thank you so much again .I really miss your regular videos. I do not watch padrone not a lot of money at 80 yrs old leaving in Canada with Liberals putting us in the poor house. Julien.
Glad comparative religious studies gave you impetus to start learning woodworking. I blaspheme so much when I work in the shop, they'd never accept me for religious studies.
Hi @ENCurtis this is a very good content video. I am Anur from Yita Home, are you open to collabartion with home living brand? If yes, is there any contact information that I can contact? Thank You.
I like the idea of college Eric neglecting to read Thomas Aquinas discussions on the divinity of Jesus to instead study the profession of Jesus. I bet Thomas would be amused.
The first 1,000 people to use my link will get a full year of Premium membership to Woodworkers Guild of America for only $1.49: go.wwgoa.com/encurtis/
Link doesn't work
I would but I am already a WWGoA member; have been for years!
Thanks for the reminder to join the guild. Meant to do it months ago. Gold membership for an extra 9 bucks is the way to go.
I’m an old retired DIY guy who catches every new video you put out. I worried about my short time memory loss when it began a couple years ago. Now I’ve found it a blessing as I can go back to any and all your videos and they are brand new to me 😊.
Gen X checking in. I greatly appreciate that you acknowledge safety without being a nanny about it. Actually blocked one luthier's channel because he said in a video that "I'm not going to show me using the router because routers are dangerous and I don't want to encourage anyone to use it". The world needs less of that "I'm going to protect you from yourself because I'm better than you" vibe.
For getting laps at 09:36 : Raise the blade flipping every time. You'll make a tiny tenon. Keep raising and flipping until the tiny tenon falls off or is just a whisker. Then you are exactly half your material height.
I watch tons of UA-cam videos and never make a comment, but I will make an exception to your page. I found you several months ago and I truly look forward to your new videos. Everyone is very informative and entertaining. I love your format and how it feels like you are talking to us. Keep up the good work and I'll be looking forward to the next one.
Same here!
Only sponsor spot i never skipped forward for
Haha appreciate you man!
Also, great video - great joint. I used full laps (bridle joint?) on my hand tool cabinet doors. After 10 years - with my chisels and spoke shaves hanging on them - all my reveals are still nice and even. Thanks for the great content, as usual.
I really appreciate it when you show your "Brain Farts" (mistakes)! I am a longtime hobbyist and recovering shop teacher. I make a ton of mistakes and it frustrates me, kind of like I am the only woodworker who makes mistakes. Your honesty really helps my attitude when I am in the shop. There are a few UA-camrs who honestly show reality. Keep up the amazing work.
I could watch you talk about paint drying Erik lol. Thanks for another great tutorial. Love what you do 🤙
Love your posts, I find myself looking forward to end of week to see if there will be a new video. Must also say if I’m feeling really frustrated with a current project, that I can always get some motivation from watching on of your videos . Now for the negative, my only complaint is having to wait up to 2 weeks for new episodes and wish they were a bit longer, I know you have patreon now but being on a fixed income I can’t really swing it yet. Anyways keep it up love the channel .
Thanks for another great video! There is one detail you skipped however. You left a 1/8" gap between the frame and the panel. Was that for aesthetic reasons or to accommodate for the panel's expansion. Since you glued the panel to the frame, I am thinking it is not structural but I am not sure. In any case, it would be helpful to discuss wood movement for a framed panel like this in another video. There is very little on this online.
I'm particularly partial to the bridle joint and have used it almost exclusively for more than 40 years. Thousands of doors from small boxes to cabinet doors to oversized entry doors.
I considered using the bridal as an example. Perhaps I’ll check the one off in the future!
@@ENCurtis That's bridle as in equine harnesses and the like. That's OK. We all have times when words are hard.
I cut my bridle joints closely enough that smaller doors hold together against a fair amount of stress before any glue is added to the equation. A quick scrape of the surfaces to be glued, a check for square, and the lightest of clamping results in a nice quick, clean assembly.
hi Ed, your one of my favorite Woodworker. Being an non native speaker and only an hobby woodworker your mixture of craftsmanship, design and comments on live in general combined with your clear articulation makes your videos a joy to watch. Best greetings from Germany Christian
Hi Christian, I’d try greeting you with the German I learned in high school almost 40 years ago but my brain doesn’t work in multiple languages like yours. I say all that because I don’t want it to sound like I’m trying to belittle you in any way when I let you know his name is Erik, not Ed. Hope you enjoy the rest of your weekend👍
Great video. This is an excellent level-up tutorial on panel frame construction. Also, love that you include the mistakes and fixes. Unrelated, the podcast is fantastic. As an aspiring maker, I’ve appreciated the perspectives on how we grow and evolve in the craft. Thank you for the effort in creating awesome content!
Really glad you’re enjoying the pod!
Love the look of that "flush" panel. Thanks for showing it!
I built our screen door with half-laps and dowels. It’s a HUGE 1970’s custom door. So, I had to make it myself. Unless, we wanted to pay a few hundred dollars. Used 1/2 redwood. That door is used and abused all day being a back door! SLAM SLAM SLAM! Still holding together after four years. 😊
Wood workers of America, now that brings back memories from years ago and I am still a member. They do come up with new content and it goes well with a time of coffee and zoning out, then there is the makers mob with a good selection guys.
Great video - love starting Saturdays off with coffee and an ENCurtis video!
Thank you!
The milling music 👌🏼
As ever superb skill and interaction, mistakes are part of life and should never be hidden that's the beauty of "hand made by humans" which adds soul to a piece.
This morning’s video was great. First thing I do Saturday morning is look to see if you posted any new content. I think pod casts are great too.
Thank you so much!
I so enjoy the content EN. Your subtle mistake in work and words...feels real. Keep it real man 😂
15 years? Shut up! I'm going to my 30th reunion next week. Thanks for reminding me in old!
Highly recommend the woodpeckers dado nut for the sawstop, it allows full engagement and rotation of the nut securing the dado stack.
Some table saws have a very convenient 5/8" nut-washer thingy to stabilize tick dado configurations like in this video, you should get one for your table saw (e.g Woodpecker's Dado Nut)
Out of a number of channels I subscribe too.
Yours is the only one I don't skip a minute.
And, and I've heard that some people set the speed to x1.5. Some to x2 speed which is crazy. Anyhow your 'Average view duration' must be super long. Something I would like to get right without using music. Not easy.
Have a wonderful day ❤️
Jamie
It's a thing of beauty that panel! Adding it to my every growing to-build list.
THANK YOU for showing different ways to do the same-ish thing - ALSO love showing of errors and how to fix (lord knows I need to know how all the different ways... )
Cheers!
Those reveals on the panels are stunning. I can’t wait to incorporate this ❤️
So you didn't comment on gluing the central pieces, which it looks like you did, and wood movement and having clearance?
Easily the smartest and best $2 investment I'll make today.😆 Thanks Eric!
Love to hear that! 😎
Long time fan, first time commenter. This is a great video as always but I just wanted to compliment you on the shirt choices you often make. They're just so darn cool sometimes.
That half-lap panel for the double garage doors at my parents sounds like an option.. Nice timing on this video for myself :)
And was still in the top1k clicks, best 2$ spent in a while.. with a 9$ Gold upgrade to go with it.. ;)
Keep these video's coming! :)
I love and use stub tenens, a lot, There are cabinet doors all over my house with stub tenen rails and stiles.
As always, thanks for the way you present material. For this newb, it matters.
Thank you very much man, you are the best, I am one of the 1000!!! I send you greetings from Uruguay✌
Love the half-lap-mitre joint. Used it on a picture frame recently & it looks great with finish on it.
Love your videos. The centring idea is simple and yet so effective. Your video has made me think (not common). If you had the groove only in the mitred portion of the lapped mitre it would not show and it would mitre join an internal moulding on the frame corners. I'd still have to mitre the moulding joint on a central rail though. Thank you for the shove.
Great video - As you know, there are more than 3 ways.... Besides the bridle joint mentioned above, there's an actual haunched Mortise & Tenon, and, of course, using Dominos or dowels. The discussion of using A) stopped grooves versus B) a joint that fills in the groove (stub tenons as you did, or haunched M&T) versus C) Not caring since the exposed groove end won't show is, I think, worth yet another video.
BTW, what joint did you choose for the front door, where the edges would be exposed when the door is open?
You skipped right over the mitered mortise and tenon joint! By far my favorite joint for jewelry box lids.
Look so good.
I agree stub tenon is a great way to go but as I trained as an English cabinet maker I was always taught to use a haunch but I I understand why you wouldn’t on a back panel as the end grain wont been seen when installed into you carcass but force of habit I guess and as your so rightly said pride of work they may not know its there but I will
Another absolutely great video always look forward to each and every video so helpful and informative. Thanks for sharing as always.
I got to you late this week. But I got to you nun the less. Great video. I always enjoy the coffee references. I sometimes feel that it's a shutout. But it could be a stretch. But I'll take it. See you on the next. Take care.
Excellent work. Great job of explaining the techniques and processes
Used your link to look as the WWGA but it looks like their vides average 5-7 minutes and given the topics, between you and The Wood Whisperer, Tamar and a few others, that I get better instruction here. That’s partially because all of you make the content not only instructional but also engaging and entertaining. Would like to see you also do more series similar to ones you did in the past following a project from inception to conclusion.
Thanks for sharing Erik as always another great piece of wisdom my friend!
This was very enlightening and inspiring. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Eric, good video, thanks. Can you share what wood species you were using for that project?
Loving the content and approach you take. Us Brits still find the health and safety on you saw bench a bit alarming, ever thought of a run off table?
Beautiful technik and explained!
Great videos! Would you share what you prefer about Old Brown Glue over Tight Bond II or III for these kind of projects?
Hi Erik - great tips - looks so much better than a plywood backing! Thank you for sharing. Can I please ask what hearing protection you use / recommend?
Lotta coffee this morning huh bubba. Seriously Erik, fine teaching moment for young woodworker to learn. Good job. Carry on bud carry on.
Much obliged my good man 👊
I appreciate that you took the time to show different methods. As someone with only handtools right now, I'm leaning toward the half lap since it's easier, but with the addition of a peg.
That’s a brilliant variation that will hold up for decades if not centuries 👊
Thanks! Always entertaining learning.
Thank you!
Great video as always. What an inspiration you are.
Thanks Eric, for another great video.
Hi Erik, my partner loves the monster mug you are always drinking from, where did you buy it/who made it? Keen to help her track down its source 😊 Thanks!
Thanks for the video,really interesting ideas.👍👍
Glad you liked it!
Wow, you really turned it up to 11 for this one! This is "teach a man to fish" kinda stuff!
I ordered a membership to WWG. Thanks for the coupon! Quick question. I’ve been trying to tell from the video, are you fitting the panel into rabbet’s on the back or simply butting it up to the back of the self and attaching it there? May be a dumb question but was just curious. And how and where do you attach yours? Glue or nail in the middle to allow for expansion? Got to say, that panel is sexy for sure 👍
Nevermind, I answered my own question at 26:52. I see the rabbets 😊
I make similar half laps using the "speed tenon method i saw from Christian B.
Awesome video! I'm new to this channel, and found myself starting to watch more of your videos, Erik. I thoroughly enjoy your teaching methods, and this video is no exception! I do have a question though.. at around the 26:27 mark, you are using liquid hide glue. Is there a specific reason for this? I looked online for differences between this and your typical Titebond type glue, and from what I gather, hide glue can be more brittle and even allow one to separate the joint without needing to damage the wood it bonds.. so I wonder if you used this in case you need to make some wood separations afterwards? That could be a cool future video, featuring hide glue and pros/cons of using it. In any case, thanks for these videos! Great quality and very informative!
Modern hide glue is pretty on par with your standard yellow glue structurally speaking. It's main advantage is that is has a longer open working time. Then why not use hide glue as that standard? That's mainly due to the hide glue not being able to handle water which is why it can become brittle. Also a little water and steam will let you pop out that joint. So advantages and disadvantages based on the operative application. Making a bookshelf that will sit in my home I'll use hide glue, for cutting board go with your titebound3. Or it could be that's just what he had on hand. 🤷♂
Hide glue definitely has its limitations but liquid hide glue, as David pointed out, has an open time of close to 40 minutes in good conditions. In this case I wanted be able to center the panels once the assembly was together without the yellow glue seizing the panel in the groove.
How are those panels going to handle movement?
They’re only glued in the center 3” or so and have about 3/16” of space to expand into the frame.
Nice work, but what about that space i was tough you must leave in a floating door panel, so it’s was all not necessary? After all this years of getting the math right in the cabinet doors, it was a waist of time? Dang it, well forget about them from now on, nice content
Eric
Were you ever in the seminary? You seem to have a back ground in theology with the way you present things
Great result.
Good video
It’s an excellent lesson in various techniques. I would just say that sometimes, the “strongest” technique is not needed. If you feel you need a joint to sustain (as a pure example) 1 tonne of force, then is the joint that will take 3 tonnes more useful than the one that will take 2 tonnes? And if that 2 tonne joint allows you quicker (that may mean cheaper) joints, then does that speed overrule unnecessary additional strength?
In part, it comes back to “just because you can, doesn’t mean you should”. I think of that mostly in terms of design (I can make a complicate design but does that mean I should or that it’s better) but it can be relevant to aspects such as joints. In years gone by, I would almost always use a M&T joint because it is relatively easy to do and should be very strong. Now that my body objects to the use of the Morticer, I do use one of the dominos. I can’t see that a M&T joint is necessarily stronger than a domino joint and I’ve never had ones, made properly, of either style fail.
The mantra of “just go and make something” is a phrase I wholly agree with. To get people started, then they should commence the journey to understand all the joint options but know that the simple one is almost certainly fit for purpose
So what did you do to get the reveal around the panel?
This got me to go make some espresso on this saturday
Love a good weekend espresso ☕️
Where\d you get those sweet blade wrenches for the table saw?
@encurtis would you, at some point, consider talking at greater length about how you account for wood movement in glue-up and groove-depth? When I’ve done frame/panel doors for cabinets, it’s been recommended to me to always leave a bit of a gap, and to not glue in the panel; but that seems (a) to be different to what you’re saying you’d do with visible joinery; (b) maybe unnecessary when the stiles and panel are oriented the same direction in terms of grain? Anyways, super curious to hear more. : )
Will certainly do a video on that at some point. How I calculate how much room they need for expansion differs by species and grain orientation, but for now I’ll say the panels are only glued in the center 3” or so and have about 3/16” of space to expand into the frame.
@@ENCurtis Thanks for the reply! And I’ll look forward to the eventual in-depth video. : )
You can use ChatGPT to figure out how much movement you need to accommodate. If you haven’t used it before, you want to use as much specific information as you can but be concise. An example of what I mean would be:
Calculate the amount of wood movement for a 24 inch wide panel made from kiln dried soft maple with 3 boards that are .75 inches thick and 8 inches wide.
I'm curious if this is the build for a class you are teaching? I saw you and Larissa Huff are teaching together, and I would love to have joined the class, but it wasn't in the cards for me to attend.
Thanks, I feel like i'm stepping away with a better understanding and idea of the way to get it right. I hope that makes sense to you. Thank you for all your time and effort. 1in7
Love that. Thanks so much.
Did he say . . . "College Eric may have neglected to read Thomas Aquinas from time to time? 🤣🤣🤣
OMG that was hilarious!
I was always a terrible student of I’m completely honest 😂
Skipped English and grammar class too 😂 finally someone who speaks like i does LOL JIC 😂😂 I mean JK appears words and acronyms are hard 😂😂 Love your content and humor! @ENCurtis
Signed up for wwga..thanks bud
Awesome! Thank you so much!
Tons of tutelage, and tons of tunage, tu 😊
Can you share your playlist for this video please?
I should really put one together… if I do I will share!
On the frame & panel part, how do you keep a consistent gap between the panel and the rails/stiles and yet still allow a gap in the slot for wood movement?
The panels are only glued in the center 3” or so and have about 3/16” of space to expand into the frame. Then I use playing cards as spacers during the glue up to ensure even spacing.
@@ENCurtis Thank you. It makes more sense now. I really like your videos and your presentation style.
Works in France, just sign. Thanks !!!
Question, how do you keep the rabbit detail of your flush panel centered? I am assuming that it's floating.. also, that is a good looking back panel. Cheers.
Best ad read ever! But now I want to know what "Comparative Religion" is.
Whoa! Look at those subs rising! Goodness gracious me.
Love it
Looking at that back panel, I think you put it in upside down. Heh, just kidding. That back panel looks wonderful!
Very nice
Thanks
if it is the same thickness, glue and flush with each other, why not just glue a few boards together? I thought frame and panel construction is to reduce the weight while still maintaining most of the strength and also have a few floating board for seasonal movement?
what is up with the mug?
I almost did a spit take when you cut to the montage of you jointing these very small boards.... and this heavy metal grunge music comes on?!
Wait, I thought you had a Harvey TS
Wait, I thought you got rid of your Sawstop. 🤔
I have a saw,set of chisels and a marking gauge will that do 😊
I always watch these videos on Saturday with coffee on my hand and today my hand is empty because I’m out of coffee….
That’s the most tragic comment I’ve read this morning 😂☕️
it hurts to see the cup set onto the cast iron
Thank you so much again .I really miss your regular videos. I do not watch padrone not a lot of money at 80 yrs old leaving in Canada with Liberals putting us in the poor house. Julien.
forgive me if this has already been said, but
Get that coffee off of that saw!
Glad comparative religious studies gave you impetus to start learning woodworking. I blaspheme so much when I work in the shop, they'd never accept me for religious studies.
😂😂😂 eh I was much the same in college. Some found it humorous, others offensive
Hi @ENCurtis this is a very good content video. I am Anur from Yita Home, are you open to collabartion with home living brand? If yes, is there any contact information that I can contact? Thank You.
I like the idea of college Eric neglecting to read Thomas Aquinas discussions on the divinity of Jesus to instead study the profession of Jesus. I bet Thomas would be amused.
I think you’re right. Might even say that Jesus would find the humor in that 😂