Every project/type of wood being different, is there a basic sequence you follow in preparing a surface for finish (planing, sandpaper grades, card scraping, etc etc.).
Guess what tomorrow is? It’s sharpening day! I purchased stones a few months ago, but they’re still in the bags that I brought them home in but watching this just gave me the confidence to go into my shop and get it done. Thank you!
There was a guy, maybe 30 years ago, who wrote for American Woodworker. Can't remember his name. He had a unique sense of humor.... How do I know when my table saw blade is dull? If you are setting off the smoke alarms, that is a pretty good indicator!
THIS HAPPENS TO BE THE BEST SHARPENING VIDEO I’VE EVER SEEN. I HAVE WATER STONES, DIAMOND FLAT STEEL AND EVEN A ELECTRIC SHARPENING MACHINE. THEY ALL WORK GREAT. YOUR APPROACH TO SHARPENING IS THE ONE I WILL USE FROM NOW ON. THANKS FRIEND
Great video! A trick I use when flattening my water stones, which I do every time I sharpen, is to use a pencil to draw 8-10 lines across the stone before starting to flatten. This gives you a great visual indication of how flat you’ve gotten the stone. Just keep flattening until all the pencil lines are gone.
I check for edge imperfections by lightly dragging the edge of my finger nail along the blade edge. Super sensitive technique and less chance of laceration! If your fingernail is too short you can pull back the flesh a bit to avoid skin-to-blade contact. 40 years in fine furniture and curvy staircases. And still learning. Great video! Mahalo!
Thanks for the great content🤓👍 9:50 My teacher showed me a method that works for me. Gently slide the top of ‘your least favorite finger nail’ across the de-burred edge. Then draw it through the end grain of a piece of hardwood.
I've watched about a bajillion videos & read a bunch of articles on how to sharpen. This is by far the best I've seen. Tons of information and practical tips. Usually,the techniques are taught but not explained in as much detail. Thanks for this video.
Hollow grind like he does but notice the mess he's making with those waterstones. If you want slurry like you're cutting stones in your shop then it's a viable option I suppose. He just don't know where to get diamond plates cheap.
What a nice video ... eventhougt i am an occasional & semi experienced woodworker and know the subject, such a reminder is a delight !!! For beginners this video is a MUST, lucky you are. The sound of a good shaving is so nice. The more i look at your videos the more i love your style - Thanks ....
lol, I have a penchant for 'bouje' (for short) as well. I was going to upgrade my wet sandpaper station with a water hone machine, or some good stones, until I came across diamond sets for $20. Diamond is officially cheaper than sandpaper, and my boujee shop purchases will be better served by buying some of your hand tool recommendations. Keep up the great work!
For the ruler trick you can even go to your local tool store 1000 shim, if you really cheap you can use a piece of cardboard from a cereal box it will work just as well! Or if you like me I just do a free hand, and if your back is flat that's all you need! Good video that a good tips enjoying your journey! Columbus Michigan
Bro, I agree with stevecunningham below, you are my new favorite woodworker. You are such a patient and excellent (and oftentimes funny) teacher. Got so many questions for you bro!!
Kudos on mentioning that there is no given surefire way to tell when a blade is dull. I work mostly with soft woods, just last week I was planing a face of a board with freshly sharpened plane. I use a wooden smother and I was getting ridiculously thin shavings (the kind that flies out straight out of the plane and starts sticking to your arm thanks to static), when I moved to plane the edge that was a bit more figured and the individual ring were harder, you could see sings of the slightest skipping on the finished surface thanks to the orientation of the grain. I waxed the sole, tried going slower, and everything went fine after that. Another thing that used to happen to me was getting fluffy (not torn out, just "fluffy") surface, but my plane still cut fine using the same amount of effort, so I thought it was weird grain, but while the plane took still the same amount of force to push, the blade was a bit duller and stroping did the trick. Time and practice solves all, thank you for another good presentation. And by the way, those stones look absolutely awesome.
There's a way to know. Everyone knows when their tools are dull. Most just lie to themselves about it. That's because they suck at sharpening and don't want to do it. The sad truth is the more often you sharpen the less time you'll have to spend sharpening. By rights you should probably be sharpening a tool after every 15 minutes of using it. So whatever you do had better be fast.
My experience with western tools: I got the best edges grinding a "deep and narrow groove" with a dremel grinding wheel (smaller radius) that helps me freehand sharpen super comfortably forna long time. I use 1000, 3000, 8000 and 12000 stones (high quality japanese made), then japanese thin camelia oil to protect blade and tool. Always do sideways movements, also extra pressure on the sides to create that super slight curve. I got transparent shavings with lie nielsen and silk smooth finish on most woods. If I can be of more help, just ask!
Hello, just found your videos today when searching a method of clamping mitred joins together, your video of the three techniques you use came up I watched it and consequently fell down the rabbit hole that is ENCurtis. I have spent a very engaging couple of hours whilst waiting for glue to dry watching many of them. All were very informative and seem to make the mysterious art of the carpenter accessible to us newbies, especially this little gem. Thanks for the tutorials and keep them coming my friend.
Holy words, man. I can split hair, sharpening with a 18$ water stone (double face grit 1000/4000) purchased on the famous online shop. I love water stone.
As you rightly say, having very sharp cutting tools is not a nice-to-have, it’s an absolute essential for any kind of decent woodworking. As you also say, there are quite a few ways of achieving that -and a lot just comes down to personal choice. Here are a few thoughts from me When I started over 45 years ago, it was really a question of oil stones and nothing else (although my grandfather used the dried skin of the dogfish as both sandpaper and a final sharpening paper). Good oil stones are still a fine method but now there are others - and I’ve bought and tried them all I’ve got sets of very expensive water stones. You do need to keep them flattened and need to be soaked just before using. I’ve got a Tormek T8 which takes me up to 1000 grit and then the leather belt. I’ve got the scary sharp style of sharpening films. The key thing for me is simplicity. I ought to touch up my chisels and plane blades whilst using them. If I’m using them a lot, then I ought to touch them up several times during each use. For me to do that, the method has to be simple or I just don’t do it enough. So, I don’t use the Waterstones (need to be flattened and kept wet) or the Tormek (1000 grit is not enough) but use the scary sharp style of system. All stuck onto a piece of plate glass;kept on my bench and ready to use in an instant with a quick spray of water. Where I do use the Tormek is if I have to go back to regrinding the primary bevel. It’s the quickest method that I know of and it does deliver a good consistent edge. Where I do use the Waterstones is to put the secondary bevel on if I have just regrouped the primary bevel. I’m not saying this the best method - let alone the only method - but it suits my style of working. I want to touch up my edges regularly. I agree with the video in that the angle of the primary bevel is not critical. Wisdom has chisels at 25 and most planes at 30. However, I have low angle and high angle planes which vary greatly in the angles required. What I do believe is important is that the secondary bevel is about 3-5 degrees greater than the primary bevel and that I sharpen (and touch up) that secondary bevel to the same angle consistently. Absolutely hard work to touch up at 36 degrees one time; 33 the next and then 36 again. So, that consistency is key again for my need for simplicity. None of this is a critics of anything in the video. Just another perspective .
Very interesting!! Eric!, I feel like you're teaching me personally. I know we're all human, and we all question ourselves, but you are an amazing teacher! I would feel intimitated to work face to face with you LOL & I'm in my 50's! I wish/should've gotten into wood working 40 yrs ago. Thank you my friend, keep on teaching n I'll keep on learning...btw WHERE IS YOUR PATREON? What exactly IS a patreon lol...help...
I have the LN guide and love it for the reason you mention - the long jaws. Best out there. Another one that is fairly recent is the newer Woodriver Premium guide, As good as the LN one, but no extra jaws. Does come with a setting guide and is dead simple to use and very effective. A question for you about the Ohishi 10,000 grit stone. I have had that one for over a year and was never happy with it, reason being that LN says not to soak it. It drank up water like a sponge and never worked well for me no matter how often I sprayed it with water. Recently (like last two or three weeks) I've tried soaking it permanently. The difference in use is like night and day. Love the way it works now. No issues with it and so far I've not seen any degradation of the stone. We shall see how it holds up long term. I'm wondering if you've had the same experience and have you tried soaking it?
I’ve had the same issue with these stones. The soaking guidance is really conflicting out there and I can’t determine if it works better soaked or not. My buy shaptons cause I feel like I’m not getting the best out of my Ohishi. Appreciate your thoughts
I use a strop and polishing compound as my final step. I have been told the polishing compound is effectively 15000 grit. IDK. But it does give a mirror shine to the edge.
Having spent a ton of money on sharpening…my setup now? I have 3 stones: 1K, 3K, and 13K. I use all 3 when I flatten the back of chisels. The ruler trick is a great trick and use on my bevel up planes. I sharpen by hand and do the secondary bevel by feel.
From how I understand it, we Brits modified the word Camber from the Romans Their roads as most countries now do it, have a camber on them to help the rain leave the roads.
Brother, when you do the ruler trick it is best to move the blade along the ruler rather than toward and away from it. This will keep the angle of the back bevel you are honing more consistent.
About the chisel- the bevel on the other side pushes it into the wood. The reverse bevel keeps it going straight, opposing the small back force from the materian you're removing.
Except it doesn't. The blade will ALWAYS try to ride on that back bevel. It's basic physics that cannot be argued around no matter how many heavily edited videos from much less honest content creators are out there. When you push on a chisel with a back bevel the cutting edge is trying to cut anywhere from a 1/32" to 1/16" above the actual back of the chisel depending on how much of a back bevel you put on it. That means that the chisel back is always going to be being forced to meet uncut wood. If it was a sharp 90 degree angle the it would just stop moving when it hit that but because you've created an incline with that back bevel the chisel will always try to push itself up that incline. You just can't legitimately argue that away. It is going to happen. If you've ever made a cut with a chisel with a back bevel and had the cut come out less than square or with a sloppy fit or with slightly chewed up edges that back bevel and you're natural tendency to try and keep the chisel straight is why. Consciously or or not you will always being trying to compensate for where that chisel wants to naturally go because of that back bevel. It is going to want to push in and as you feel that you will be directing the tip slightly back so that as the back bevel forces the blade forward you're still cutting mostly where you want it to. The sides of the cut will almost always be slightly trapezoidal in shape because most people will tend to overcompensate to one degree or another. The sides of the cut will also not be as smooth as or as neat they could be. Competing bevels on a chisel also make the chisel far more likely to follow some grain change instead of where you're trying to put it. This is not a controversy, it's just the basic physics of how a cutting edge with no reference surface other than itself that is not forcibly held to an angle by mechanical means, like a chisel for instance, is going to behave. You can argue against it and say nuh-uh or come back with this content creator said this and you'll be as wrong as that content creator. And I know which shmuck UA-camr has pushed a few videos with plenty of jump cuts "proving" a back bevel doesn't behave the way physics says it must and he's very wrong as well.
Since it's a very small angle on the back bevel, a good approximation of the angle is the tangent of the angle, so the thickness of the ruler divided by the distance to the edge. Assuming a 0.5mm ruler and 3cm distance, that gives us an angle of 0.0167rad, or about 0.95 degrees
The difference in sharpening angle is usually dictated by 2 things; the type of metal the blade is made of, and how often you want to sharpen. To explain why this is; The more carbon a metal has, the harder it is. Thus it's better at keeping it's angle. I.e. high carbon steels can hold a sharper edge than lower carbon steels. So if you'd sharpen a lower carbon steel with the same edge, you'll be sharpening more often because it will dull quicker.
Hey Erik, going back through the library refreshing my wetware with the information provided. I just purchased a couple Ohishi waterstones, going with the 1K and 6K based on the instructional video provided by CFC. Maybe I'll get to 10k some day :) How do you store your waterstones when done sharpening?
I just learned how to sharpen freehand when I started. I don´t have to worry about secondary bevels because doing the whole bevel is quick enough and without a honing guide I can use the whole stone so I don´t have to flatten it that often. No jigs, no rulers, it´s not hard to do and much quicker.
Thank you for this!! I loved this video. Super informative. I've been struggling with figuring out the best secondary bevel angle for chisels and plane blades. Going to try 35 degrees from now on! Thanks!!!
There’s a reason why so many diamond hones wear out faster than expected. People, including Paul Sellars, us a back and forth or circular motion on them. If you only ever pull the blade in one direction, little supportive ridges of metal are retained behind each diamond particle, helping it to stay in place. With a circular or back and forth motion, that doesn’t happen, and you you lose diamonds faster.
Yeah, I wish people would not take everything a famous woodworker says or teaches as gospel, and take more accurate and optimal approach. These woodworkers do things their own way that aligns with their needs and even personal values, and a lot of time they are not objectively correct or optimal.
My old dad - passed away over 30 years ago - used only wooden planes, but the blade sharpening followed that which you suggest in your video. He also trued his stone in a similar way. The only difference was he used a square of 1/4” thick plate glass, which he claimed was flatter than a billiard table. Nice video. The preference for a 35 degree edge is interesting: my Stanley plane blade has a 30 deg. angle and it can snatch at times….
Awesome info, Helps . I agree sharpening is the key to woodworking. Sharp tools can let a small shop knock out alot of work and avoids dust - get a bit tired of masks not mention noise is always bad.... Out curiosity, what is your setup for creating the hollow grind? Thanks..
@@ENCurtis do you really need such a fine grit? 120 sounds awfully fine for hollow grinding primary bevels to me. I use like 40. Ain't nobody got time for 120 grit. You're just making air with a primary bevel. The grind don't really look bad either. It's the finish grind on my lawnmower blades too. Sharp enough.
I believe you described and demonstrated the David Charlesworth ruler trick 100% accurately. Even down to using the same 10K Ohishi water stone as he demonstrated and a Lie Nielson blade as he demonstrated. I believe there are two sources of controversy. 1. some people quite enjoy polishing large portions of their chisel and iron backs and puzzled by someone telling them they should be saving that time for something else. 2. The method and reasoning for the method is simply taught to people who can't use it by people who don't understand it. When it inevitably does not work the argument insures. The main misunderstand I have encountered stems from conflating the terms "polishing" and "flatten." These are different concepts and serve different purpose on iron backs and even more different purposes on chisel backs. In other words, a plane iron back must be reasonably flat, even when employing the ruler trick. Because, as you mentioned, the ruler trick polishes away a very small amount of metal at a very slight degree. Therefore, it can only compensate for a degree of out-of-flatness that falls within the slight angle of the "back polish."
Interesting..... I do have one set of the old DMT stones, with all the holes in the plate. They had pretty much stopped cutting. Put a little of the Trend lapping fluid on them and they came back most of the way. I do have the diamond lapping plates, at least for now. Mostly I don't want the maintenance chore of flattening them. I am curious about you not stropping the plane irons. I can 'feel' a burr of the 8000 grit stone, and even off a 30,000 grit Shapton stone. I am getting back into flat work after almost 30 years on the wood lathes....
Every project/type of wood being different, is there a basic sequence you follow in preparing a (for example a highly figured curly maple top) surface for finish (cutting/milling, planing, sandpaper grades, card scraping (?)etc etc.). Does card scraping generally go before a final sanding? Thx so much, and appreciate your teaching! Subscribed 👍
Yes I used 600 but I've used other grits before to similar results. And I do keep them in water but they don't require long soaking, which is super nice if you need to store them dry. I've given them about 2-3 minutes of soaking before use in the past and they work great.
Camber ; a slight convexity, arching, or curvature (as of a beam, deck, or road) : the convexity of the curve of an airfoil from the leading edge to the trailing edge. : a setting of the wheels of an automotive vehicle closer together at the bottom than at the top.
Thank you for the setup tips. Not many folks show this. I must say, I'm a bit disappointed, however. You clearly neglected several opportunities to interject a "just the tip" joke. I mean, I was waiting and waiting. :D
I went to boat building school and as a result I sharpen at 25 degrees. I will try the 35 degrees and compare. Meanwhile, I might add that a second important woodworking skill is learning to properly sharpen and maintain card scrapers, something I also still struggle with.
Just to be clear, at 2:55, he mentions the primary bevel is 20-25 degrees, with a secondary bevel of 35 degrees. You probably know about that, but the secondary bevel is a new idea to me and other newbies too. I don' want some newbie grinding down their brand new expensive chisels and burning them them up.
I had a lot of trouble with card scrapers too. Turned out I can't feel burrs well enough with my finger tips; they're way too big by the time I can. I now use the sensitive skin between my thumb and fore finger to check for a burr. Putting the burr at an angle as most instructions show was a problem as well. I just do nearly 90deg now. Gotten a lot better that way.
@@andrewdennison5700 When the secondary bevel eventually becomes too big, you'll have to grind the edge down to 25 degrees anyway, and that will remove a lot of metal and take forever unless you have coarse diamond plates or power sharpening tools. Some people just prefer to keep their blades at a secondary bevel angle permanently and sharpen and hone the whole bevel each time.
Look through his other videos. There is one where he goes over that. He does use a leather strop occasionally for those but you do have to be careful with those and not use them exclusively. The problem is that the leather is soft enough that the toolhead will sink in a little bit. If you just strop to maintain that edge it begins to curl that edge over and round it. You can mitigate that a bit by using some of the thinner stops bonded to a hardwood substrate but you still don't want to use it as the exclusive method of sharpening. There are some very good water stones that are in traditional slipstone shape which is a water stone that basically has the profile of an extremely elongated teardrop with both ends of the teardrop having a radius. One large and one small obviously. There are also cone shaped waterstones. I like the teardrop profile ones as they are more consistent and easier to use as each diameter of the teardrop has the same size down the length. You have to freehand sharpen gouges but you can ride those profiles right down the inside curve of gouge and it will follow it pretty naturally. The back or outside of the gouge you use the flat stones for and just practice will get you there. The angle is big enough on a gouge for you to feel it ride on the stone. You just put one side of that curve on the angle at the far end of the stone and apply slight pressure as you draw it back to you. As you draw it back to you you just slowly rock it over to the other edge so that by the time the gouge reaches the near end of the stone it has completely shifted so that the opposite edge is now resting on the stone.
Can you answer a question regarding soaking your stones? You pulled them from the tub of water, is that where you store them, or prep? If prep, how long?
I saw he answered this in another reply, so in case you missed it: "I do keep them in water but they don't require long soaking, which is super nice if you need to store them dry. I've given them about 2-3 minutes of soaking before use in the past and they work great."
This is all well and good IF you've got a decent iron edge to start with. This video is great, but consider doing one using a completely trashed iron 😅 Good job man, it is informative
Thanks for the video! I wonder how many talented people give up on woodworking, or waste a lot of time and effort, to complete the project, due to blunt tools. These whet stones using water have to be soaked at least for 24 hours, before use! Or kept wet constantly. Without a good soak, the stones could be worn out of shape! Or they might require replacement! Placing the emery paper on a flat piece of granite or a piece of float glass sheet will be good for chisels! And also levelling the stones!.
I notice a lot of you tubers planing something and then come back with some sand paper and if that’s what you like , then just use your belt sander to sharpen your chisel. I believe there is a Japanese word that describes a finish straight off the chisel, or plane, my tool chest is finished that way, no sandpaper. I’ve heard that the Japanese may have the longest history of carpentry, starting with blacksmithing a set of tools to to finishing techniques that are just coming back recently, like burning the surface to add longevity. I switched to a hand made Japanese ..saw back in the 80’s because it is made thinner, hence the pull stroke, and therefore removes less wood making my cuts way faster than a push saw. This saw was made by a master in Japan and if you put a kink in the blade on a push it would snap immediately, so technique was imperative
That little bit when u said "listen, they sound the same." The importance of listening to your tools I don't think is said enough. Great vid
Agreed 100%
Yep
Paul Sellers places a LOT of emphasis on this in his videos, one of the reasons I love watching - and listening to - him.
Nothing like the satisfying sound of a well sharpened blade on a piece of wood. Polar opposite of the scraping of a chalkboard.
Every project/type of wood being different, is there a basic sequence you follow in preparing a surface for finish (planing, sandpaper grades, card scraping, etc etc.).
"8 to 12 strokes and I'm done"
Me too buddy, me too 😢
Er, I think you may have misunderstood 😉!
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Guess what tomorrow is? It’s sharpening day! I purchased stones a few months ago, but they’re still in the bags that I brought them home in but watching this just gave me the confidence to go into my shop and get it done. Thank you!
On your example I purchases a 10000 Ohishi stone and I LOVE IT!!! Thanks for the guidance.
You are becoming my new favorite woodworker. Your video production is excellent and your teaching method is great!
Thank you so much!
I second that notion!
I third
There was a guy, maybe 30 years ago, who wrote for American Woodworker. Can't remember his name. He had a unique sense of humor.... How do I know when my table saw blade is dull? If you are setting off the smoke alarms, that is a pretty good indicator!
That's my miter saw blade right now -- I don't know what I cut that killed it, but it's smoking every time now.
nice. one of the better sharpening videos i have watched. thankyou.
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for putting out a simple explanation of how to sharpen tools.
Followed this and was finally able to get my planes cutting real well, super good feeling!
WAUW. What an educational force you are. Watching the videos makes me dream about making furniture.
Thank you so much 🙂🙏
One of the best plane setup videos along with a great sharpening explanation. Thank you.
Glad you found it helpful 🙂
One of the best plane sharpening and adjustment I've ever seen. Thanks!
Well hello dude is by far the best video on sharpening, clear and on point, it's like a master class of sharpening and set up thanks for sharing
Glad it was helpful!
This is the video I've needed for years.
This was the clearest, most concise demo of sharpening and setting up a hand plane I have seen. Great video. Can't wait to try your techniques out
Quality advice and a very nice presentation…agreed, no BS
THIS HAPPENS TO BE THE BEST SHARPENING VIDEO I’VE EVER SEEN. I HAVE WATER STONES, DIAMOND FLAT STEEL AND EVEN A ELECTRIC SHARPENING MACHINE. THEY ALL WORK GREAT. YOUR APPROACH TO SHARPENING IS THE ONE I WILL USE FROM NOW ON. THANKS FRIEND
Thanks man. I'm glad you got something from it!
Thank you Lyle.
This video has been the most helpful thus far. Thank you.
Wow. I have a new favorite you tube woodworking site.
Thanks man! Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent video. And very strong entry. Nice job man
You are an excellent teacher ❤
Thank you! Re setting has been my hardest task!
Happy to help!
Great video! A trick I use when flattening my water stones, which I do every time I sharpen, is to use a pencil to draw 8-10 lines across the stone before starting to flatten. This gives you a great visual indication of how flat you’ve gotten the stone. Just keep flattening until all the pencil lines are gone.
Another great Vid. Advice is honest and relatable.Which means you get more buy in. Thank you.
Thanks for the lesson!
Your a really good instructor 🤟🏾
This was very informative. great presentation style.
I check for edge imperfections by lightly dragging the edge of my finger nail along the blade edge. Super sensitive technique and less chance of laceration! If your fingernail is too short you can pull back the flesh a bit to avoid skin-to-blade contact. 40 years in fine furniture and curvy staircases. And still learning. Great video! Mahalo!
The fingernail is a great trick! I've seen that years ago but was lost somewhere in the back of my brain. Thanks for reminding me of it!
Thanks for the great content🤓👍
9:50 My teacher showed me a method that works for me. Gently slide the top of ‘your least favorite finger nail’ across the de-burred edge. Then draw it through the end grain of a piece of hardwood.
Eric a great explanation of your process. Enjoy your video's. Thanks again
Glad you like them! Thank you.
Good instruction. Thank you.
I've watched about a bajillion videos & read a bunch of articles on how to sharpen. This is by far the best I've seen. Tons of information and practical tips. Usually,the techniques are taught but not explained in as much detail. Thanks for this video.
Hollow grind like he does but notice the mess he's making with those waterstones. If you want slurry like you're cutting stones in your shop then it's a viable option I suppose. He just don't know where to get diamond plates cheap.
I'm glad you found this accessible ✊
@@1pcfred , I think you missed the point.
@@dcchambers2772 perhaps you can amplify and elaborate on any point you think I missed? Then I'll let you know if I did, or didn't in fact miss it.
@@1pcfred Don't think I have ever come across a 10,000 diamond plate, maybe you can tell us where you get yours from, must be cheap tho
Fantastic video - thank you
What a nice video ... eventhougt i am an occasional & semi experienced woodworker and know the subject, such a reminder is a delight !!! For beginners this video is a MUST, lucky you are. The sound of a good shaving is so nice. The more i look at your videos the more i love your style - Thanks ....
lol, I have a penchant for 'bouje' (for short) as well. I was going to upgrade my wet sandpaper station with a water hone machine, or some good stones, until I came across diamond sets for $20. Diamond is officially cheaper than sandpaper, and my boujee shop purchases will be better served by buying some of your hand tool recommendations. Keep up the great work!
For the ruler trick you can even go to your local tool store 1000 shim, if you really cheap you can use a piece of cardboard from a cereal box it will work just as well! Or if you like me I just do a free hand, and if your back is flat that's all you need! Good video that a good tips enjoying your journey! Columbus Michigan
Thank you very much. Clear concise and understood. Cheers
Great to hear! Thanks for the kind comment 👍
Perfect; thank you
Pretty good tute. Thoroughly enjoyed watching. I do some things a little differently but.....
To each their own, my dude. Glad you enjoyed it nonetheless.
You never disappoint my man. Always no BS, straight to the point and it is great. Well done!
Thank you!
Grazie. Consigli veramente preziosi ed illustrati benissimo!
Well done. Thank you.
Bro, I agree with stevecunningham below, you are my new favorite woodworker. You are such a patient and excellent (and oftentimes funny) teacher. Got so many questions for you bro!!
Kudos on mentioning that there is no given surefire way to tell when a blade is dull. I work mostly with soft woods, just last week I was planing a face of a board with freshly sharpened plane. I use a wooden smother and I was getting ridiculously thin shavings (the kind that flies out straight out of the plane and starts sticking to your arm thanks to static), when I moved to plane the edge that was a bit more figured and the individual ring were harder, you could see sings of the slightest skipping on the finished surface thanks to the orientation of the grain. I waxed the sole, tried going slower, and everything went fine after that. Another thing that used to happen to me was getting fluffy (not torn out, just "fluffy") surface, but my plane still cut fine using the same amount of effort, so I thought it was weird grain, but while the plane took still the same amount of force to push, the blade was a bit duller and stroping did the trick. Time and practice solves all, thank you for another good presentation. And by the way, those stones look absolutely awesome.
Time and practice solves all indeed! Excellent words. And yes, these stones are fantastic. Highly recommend.
There's a way to know. Everyone knows when their tools are dull. Most just lie to themselves about it. That's because they suck at sharpening and don't want to do it. The sad truth is the more often you sharpen the less time you'll have to spend sharpening. By rights you should probably be sharpening a tool after every 15 minutes of using it. So whatever you do had better be fast.
Thanks for all the tips! I appreciate you sharing your skills. Can I ask... what is the proper way to store a plane?
In a hanger!
My experience with western tools: I got the best edges grinding a "deep and narrow groove" with a dremel grinding wheel (smaller radius) that helps me freehand sharpen super comfortably forna long time. I use 1000, 3000, 8000 and 12000 stones (high quality japanese made), then japanese thin camelia oil to protect blade and tool. Always do sideways movements, also extra pressure on the sides to create that super slight curve. I got transparent shavings with lie nielsen and silk smooth finish on most woods. If I can be of more help, just ask!
I have been woodworking and hence sharpening for years; have found the water stones work best for me.
Bob Van Dyke has a good video on tuning one of those $15 guides. Doesn't take it to Lie Nielsen level, but makes it a lot better.
Honesty. Thank you.
Hello, just found your videos today when searching a method of clamping mitred joins together, your video of the three techniques you use came up I watched it and consequently fell down the rabbit hole that is ENCurtis. I have spent a very engaging couple of hours whilst waiting for glue to dry watching many of them. All were very informative and seem to make the mysterious art of the carpenter accessible to us newbies, especially this little gem. Thanks for the tutorials and keep them coming my friend.
Great video thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Great information, thanks for sharing!
Glad it was helpful!
Holy words, man. I can split hair, sharpening with a 18$ water stone (double face grit 1000/4000) purchased on the famous online shop. I love water stone.
As you rightly say, having very sharp cutting tools is not a nice-to-have, it’s an absolute essential for any kind of decent woodworking. As you also say, there are quite a few ways of achieving that -and a lot just comes down to personal choice.
Here are a few thoughts from me
When I started over 45 years ago, it was really a question of oil stones and nothing else (although my grandfather used the dried skin of the dogfish as both sandpaper and a final sharpening paper). Good oil stones are still a fine method but now there are others - and I’ve bought and tried them all
I’ve got sets of very expensive water stones. You do need to keep them flattened and need to be soaked just before using.
I’ve got a Tormek T8 which takes me up to 1000 grit and then the leather belt.
I’ve got the scary sharp style of sharpening films.
The key thing for me is simplicity. I ought to touch up my chisels and plane blades whilst using them. If I’m using them a lot, then I ought to touch them up several times during each use. For me to do that, the method has to be simple or I just don’t do it enough. So, I don’t use the Waterstones (need to be flattened and kept wet) or the Tormek (1000 grit is not enough) but use the scary sharp style of system. All stuck onto a piece of plate glass;kept on my bench and ready to use in an instant with a quick spray of water.
Where I do use the Tormek is if I have to go back to regrinding the primary bevel. It’s the quickest method that I know of and it does deliver a good consistent edge.
Where I do use the Waterstones is to put the secondary bevel on if I have just regrouped the primary bevel.
I’m not saying this the best method - let alone the only method - but it suits my style of working. I want to touch up my edges regularly.
I agree with the video in that the angle of the primary bevel is not critical. Wisdom has chisels at 25 and most planes at 30. However, I have low angle and high angle planes which vary greatly in the angles required. What I do believe is important is that the secondary bevel is about 3-5 degrees greater than the primary bevel and that I sharpen (and touch up) that secondary bevel to the same angle consistently. Absolutely hard work to touch up at 36 degrees one time; 33 the next and then 36 again. So, that consistency is key again for my need for simplicity.
None of this is a critics of anything in the video. Just another perspective .
I appreciate you taking the time to share your thoughts and experience. And an excellent point about convenience.
excellent video!
Glad you liked it!
Wow. Just incredibly informative! Especially the difference with irons vs chisels. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful for you!
Those are some crazy splits/delaminations in your bench...
Very interesting!! Eric!, I feel like you're teaching me personally. I know we're all human, and we all question ourselves, but you are an amazing teacher! I would feel intimitated to work face to face with you LOL & I'm in my 50's! I wish/should've gotten into wood working 40 yrs ago. Thank you my friend, keep on teaching n I'll keep on learning...btw WHERE IS YOUR PATREON? What exactly IS a patreon lol...help...
I have the LN guide and love it for the reason you mention - the long jaws. Best out there. Another one that is fairly recent is the newer Woodriver Premium guide, As good as the LN one, but no extra jaws. Does come with a setting guide and is dead simple to use and very effective.
A question for you about the Ohishi 10,000 grit stone. I have had that one for over a year and was never happy with it, reason being that LN says not to soak it. It drank up water like a sponge and never worked well for me no matter how often I sprayed it with water. Recently (like last two or three weeks) I've tried soaking it permanently. The difference in use is like night and day. Love the way it works now. No issues with it and so far I've not seen any degradation of the stone. We shall see how it holds up long term. I'm wondering if you've had the same experience and have you tried soaking it?
I’ve had the same issue with these stones. The soaking guidance is really conflicting out there and I can’t determine if it works better soaked or not. My buy shaptons cause I feel like I’m not getting the best out of my Ohishi. Appreciate your thoughts
I use a strop and polishing compound as my final step. I have been told the polishing compound is effectively 15000 grit. IDK. But it does give a mirror shine to the edge.
Great info! Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for this. Your descriptions and analysis are first rate. I am having some trouble seeing things at times however.
Glad you liked it. Still learning the craft of videography though. And I appreciate you giving criticism in a kind way 🙏
Having spent a ton of money on sharpening…my setup now? I have 3 stones: 1K, 3K, and 13K. I use all 3 when I flatten the back of chisels. The ruler trick is a great trick and use on my bevel up planes. I sharpen by hand and do the secondary bevel by feel.
I use my LN Honing guide for the same reason. Love the different jaws and works perfectly for me.
From how I understand it, we Brits modified the word Camber from the Romans
Their roads as most countries now do it, have a camber on them to help the rain leave the roads.
I never would have tied that to the crown of a road. Very interesting. Learn something new every day!
Brother, when you do the ruler trick it is best to move the blade along the ruler rather than toward and away from it. This will keep the angle of the back bevel you are honing more consistent.
This makes zero difference on the angle. How is honing a primary bevel perpendicular makes it consistent, but honing back bevel the same way doesn't?
About the chisel- the bevel on the other side pushes it into the wood. The reverse bevel keeps it going straight, opposing the small back force from the materian you're removing.
Except it doesn't. The blade will ALWAYS try to ride on that back bevel. It's basic physics that cannot be argued around no matter how many heavily edited videos from much less honest content creators are out there. When you push on a chisel with a back bevel the cutting edge is trying to cut anywhere from a 1/32" to 1/16" above the actual back of the chisel depending on how much of a back bevel you put on it. That means that the chisel back is always going to be being forced to meet uncut wood. If it was a sharp 90 degree angle the it would just stop moving when it hit that but because you've created an incline with that back bevel the chisel will always try to push itself up that incline. You just can't legitimately argue that away.
It is going to happen. If you've ever made a cut with a chisel with a back bevel and had the cut come out less than square or with a sloppy fit or with slightly chewed up edges that back bevel and you're natural tendency to try and keep the chisel straight is why. Consciously or or not you will always being trying to compensate for where that chisel wants to naturally go because of that back bevel. It is going to want to push in and as you feel that you will be directing the tip slightly back so that as the back bevel forces the blade forward you're still cutting mostly where you want it to. The sides of the cut will almost always be slightly trapezoidal in shape because most people will tend to overcompensate to one degree or another. The sides of the cut will also not be as smooth as or as neat they could be. Competing bevels on a chisel also make the chisel far more likely to follow some grain change instead of where you're trying to put it.
This is not a controversy, it's just the basic physics of how a cutting edge with no reference surface other than itself that is not forcibly held to an angle by mechanical means, like a chisel for instance, is going to behave. You can argue against it and say nuh-uh or come back with this content creator said this and you'll be as wrong as that content creator. And I know which shmuck UA-camr has pushed a few videos with plenty of jump cuts "proving" a back bevel doesn't behave the way physics says it must and he's very wrong as well.
Since it's a very small angle on the back bevel, a good approximation of the angle is the tangent of the angle, so the thickness of the ruler divided by the distance to the edge. Assuming a 0.5mm ruler and 3cm distance, that gives us an angle of 0.0167rad, or about 0.95 degrees
From one stubborn freehand clown to another, thank you for your insights...👍
The difference in sharpening angle is usually dictated by 2 things; the type of metal the blade is made of, and how often you want to sharpen.
To explain why this is;
The more carbon a metal has, the harder it is. Thus it's better at keeping it's angle.
I.e. high carbon steels can hold a sharper edge than lower carbon steels. So if you'd sharpen a lower carbon steel with the same edge, you'll be sharpening more often because it will dull quicker.
awesome thanks
My pleasure.
I appreciate this video.
Wiping the blade dry would help to display the bevels should help in camera.
Hey Erik, going back through the library refreshing my wetware with the information provided. I just purchased a couple Ohishi waterstones, going with the 1K and 6K based on the instructional video provided by CFC. Maybe I'll get to 10k some day :) How do you store your waterstones when done sharpening?
I just learned how to sharpen freehand when I started. I don´t have to worry about secondary bevels because doing the whole bevel is quick enough and without a honing guide I can use the whole stone so I don´t have to flatten it that often. No jigs, no rulers, it´s not hard to do and much quicker.
Fantastic advice and presentation, thank you!
Just brilliant! Thank you for this video, so coherent, so honest, so useful; what more can you ask of a UA-cam video
Thank you for this!! I loved this video. Super informative. I've been struggling with figuring out the best secondary bevel angle for chisels and plane blades. Going to try 35 degrees from now on! Thanks!!!
I'm glad it was helpful!
Do you store your water stones in that water bin or just soak before use?
There’s a reason why so many diamond hones wear out faster than expected. People, including Paul Sellars, us a back and forth or circular motion on them. If you only ever pull the blade in one direction, little supportive ridges of metal are retained behind each diamond particle, helping it to stay in place. With a circular or back and forth motion, that doesn’t happen, and you you lose diamonds faster.
Yeah, I wish people would not take everything a famous woodworker says or teaches as gospel, and take more accurate and optimal approach. These woodworkers do things their own way that aligns with their needs and even personal values, and a lot of time they are not objectively correct or optimal.
How long should you soak the water stones for before using them?
Great explanation…your videos in general are so helpful. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!!
My old dad - passed away over 30 years ago - used only wooden planes, but the blade sharpening followed that which you suggest in your video. He also trued his stone in a similar way. The only difference was he used a square of 1/4” thick plate glass, which he claimed was flatter than a billiard table. Nice video. The preference for a 35 degree edge is interesting: my Stanley plane blade has a 30 deg. angle and it can snatch at times….
Many ways to skin a cat, for sure. Plate glass and sandpaper get the job done!
Thanks. Awesome detailed information. Could you advise on that small ruler you use for your back bevel?
Cheers, 👍
Just a $5 steel rule from Lie Nielsen. Seems to be just the right thickness. And cheap.
Awesome info, Helps . I agree sharpening is the key to woodworking. Sharp tools can let a small shop knock out alot of work and avoids dust - get a bit tired of masks not mention noise is always bad.... Out curiosity, what is your setup for creating the hollow grind? Thanks..
Very true! I use a white 120g wheel from Lee Valley with the wolverine jig from OneWay. Simple and very effective.
@@ENCurtis do you really need such a fine grit? 120 sounds awfully fine for hollow grinding primary bevels to me. I use like 40. Ain't nobody got time for 120 grit. You're just making air with a primary bevel. The grind don't really look bad either. It's the finish grind on my lawnmower blades too. Sharp enough.
Oishi stones are just iminishi stones rebranded for lie Nielsen. Save the money I've had both find there to soft and require to much flattening
I believe you described and demonstrated the David Charlesworth ruler trick 100% accurately. Even down to using the same 10K Ohishi water stone as he demonstrated and a Lie Nielson blade as he demonstrated.
I believe there are two sources of controversy.
1. some people quite enjoy polishing large portions of their chisel and iron backs and puzzled by someone telling them they should be saving that time for something else.
2. The method and reasoning for the method is simply taught to people who can't use it by people who don't understand it. When it inevitably does not work the argument insures.
The main misunderstand I have encountered stems from conflating the terms "polishing" and "flatten." These are different concepts and serve different purpose on iron backs and even more different purposes on chisel backs. In other words, a plane iron back must be reasonably flat, even when employing the ruler trick. Because, as you mentioned, the ruler trick polishes away a very small amount of metal at a very slight degree. Therefore, it can only compensate for a degree of out-of-flatness that falls within the slight angle of the "back polish."
Interesting..... I do have one set of the old DMT stones, with all the holes in the plate. They had pretty much stopped cutting. Put a little of the Trend lapping fluid on them and they came back most of the way. I do have the diamond lapping plates, at least for now. Mostly I don't want the maintenance chore of flattening them. I am curious about you not stropping the plane irons. I can 'feel' a burr of the 8000 grit stone, and even off a 30,000 grit Shapton stone. I am getting back into flat work after almost 30 years on the wood lathes....
Every project/type of wood being different, is there a basic sequence you follow in preparing a (for example a highly figured curly maple top) surface for finish (cutting/milling, planing, sandpaper grades, card scraping (?)etc etc.). Does card scraping generally go before a final sanding? Thx so much, and appreciate your teaching! Subscribed 👍
Great video, thank you. Could you share what grit sandpaper you use for flattening water stones? Also, do the ohishi stones need to be soaked?
He said 600 for flattening and he pulled the stones out of water when he started, so yes.
Yes I used 600 but I've used other grits before to similar results. And I do keep them in water but they don't require long soaking, which is super nice if you need to store them dry. I've given them about 2-3 minutes of soaking before use in the past and they work great.
Camber ; a slight convexity, arching, or curvature (as of a beam, deck, or road) : the convexity of the curve of an airfoil from the leading edge to the trailing edge. : a setting of the wheels of an automotive vehicle closer together at the bottom than at the top.
Thank you for the setup tips. Not many folks show this. I must say, I'm a bit disappointed, however. You clearly neglected several opportunities to interject a "just the tip" joke. I mean, I was waiting and waiting. :D
I went to boat building school and as a result I sharpen at 25 degrees. I will try the 35 degrees and compare. Meanwhile, I might add that a second important woodworking skill is learning to properly sharpen and maintain card scrapers, something I also still struggle with.
Just to be clear, at 2:55, he mentions the primary bevel is 20-25 degrees, with a secondary bevel of 35 degrees. You probably know about that, but the secondary bevel is a new idea to me and other newbies too. I don' want some newbie grinding down their brand new expensive chisels and burning them them up.
I had a lot of trouble with card scrapers too. Turned out I can't feel burrs well enough with my finger tips; they're way too big by the time I can. I now use the sensitive skin between my thumb and fore finger to check for a burr. Putting the burr at an angle as most instructions show was a problem as well. I just do nearly 90deg now. Gotten a lot better that way.
@@andrewdennison5700 When the secondary bevel eventually becomes too big, you'll have to grind the edge down to 25 degrees anyway, and that will remove a lot of metal and take forever unless you have coarse diamond plates or power sharpening tools. Some people just prefer to keep their blades at a secondary bevel angle permanently and sharpen and hone the whole bevel each time.
If you wouldn't mind, I could use some instruction on how to sharpen round gouges etc. Both inside and outside bevels please!
Look through his other videos. There is one where he goes over that. He does use a leather strop occasionally for those but you do have to be careful with those and not use them exclusively. The problem is that the leather is soft enough that the toolhead will sink in a little bit. If you just strop to maintain that edge it begins to curl that edge over and round it. You can mitigate that a bit by using some of the thinner stops bonded to a hardwood substrate but you still don't want to use it as the exclusive method of sharpening.
There are some very good water stones that are in traditional slipstone shape which is a water stone that basically has the profile of an extremely elongated teardrop with both ends of the teardrop having a radius. One large and one small obviously. There are also cone shaped waterstones. I like the teardrop profile ones as they are more consistent and easier to use as each diameter of the teardrop has the same size down the length. You have to freehand sharpen gouges but you can ride those profiles right down the inside curve of gouge and it will follow it pretty naturally.
The back or outside of the gouge you use the flat stones for and just practice will get you there. The angle is big enough on a gouge for you to feel it ride on the stone. You just put one side of that curve on the angle at the far end of the stone and apply slight pressure as you draw it back to you. As you draw it back to you you just slowly rock it over to the other edge so that by the time the gouge reaches the near end of the stone it has completely shifted so that the opposite edge is now resting on the stone.
Can you answer a question regarding soaking your stones? You pulled them from the tub of water, is that where you store them, or prep? If prep, how long?
I saw he answered this in another reply, so in case you missed it: "I do keep them in water but they don't require long soaking, which is super nice if you need to store them dry. I've given them about 2-3 minutes of soaking before use in the past and they work great."
This is all well and good IF you've got a decent iron edge to start with. This video is great, but consider doing one using a completely trashed iron 😅
Good job man, it is informative
Great suggestion!
@@ENCurtis I'll even send you a half dozen 😂
Thanks for the video!
I wonder how many talented people give up on woodworking, or waste a lot of time and effort, to complete the project, due to blunt tools.
These whet stones using water have to be soaked at least for 24 hours, before use! Or kept wet constantly.
Without a good soak, the stones could be worn out of shape!
Or they might require replacement!
Placing the emery paper on a flat piece of granite or a piece of float glass sheet will be good for chisels!
And also levelling the stones!.
I notice a lot of you tubers planing something and then come back with some sand paper and if that’s what you like , then just use your belt sander to sharpen your chisel. I believe there is a Japanese word that describes a finish straight off the chisel, or plane, my tool chest is finished that way, no sandpaper. I’ve heard that the Japanese may have the longest history of carpentry, starting with blacksmithing a set of tools to to finishing techniques that are just coming back recently, like burning the surface to add longevity. I switched to a hand made Japanese ..saw back in the 80’s because it is made thinner, hence the pull stroke, and therefore removes less wood making my cuts way faster than a push saw. This saw was made by a master in Japan and if you put a kink in the blade on a push it would snap immediately, so technique was imperative
Thanks from an old dog for teaching me a new trick.
Learning to free hand sharpen on diamond stones is way more rewarding and less mess.
It's a valuable skill to develop for sure.
@@ENCurtis no it isn't. Who's going to pay you to freehand sharpen anything? Where's the value in it? Pros that sharpen don't do it freehand.