This is the best sensible way for a beginner to sight in a new set up.I find removing the bolt to center on the target works better for me than the laser bore sighter I never use.Some of these so called experts have some really odd ways of sighting in their guns. This system works ,great video. I guess my eyes are old because I have to start at the 25 yard line when looking through the barrel but basically I use the same method. That is one awesome looking rifle, thanks for sharing, I hope beginners out there watch this video it will absolutely save them time and frustration, Regards
I installed this optic on a crossman 760 air rifle.I have now shot the riffle around 500 times during target/plinking practice, and the ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxc4K63Fd5LglDMObu7-Bgapxp_ef0W8hE scope has done well.With this optic, I have neutralized around 30 pigeons that were invading one of my buildings.For my short range air rifle, I will continue to use this scope, but will be upgrading to a more powerful scope, when I buy a more powerful air rifle, in order to shoot at longer distance.For the money I have spent, this scope has truly been a great buy.
The last rifle I sighted in only took 3 rounds. It was my Ruger American in 308 firing 180 grain winchester power points. I always let them barrels cool for 15 minutes between shots to let them barrels retract from the heat. You'll shoot alot smaller groups and your gun will last longer. 👌
Bore sight at 25, then 3 shots at 100. Then just move the scope to be in the middle of the 3 shots, then 1 shot to verify your zero, there scope is zeroed in 4 shots. I have zeroed a few rifles over the past 5 years and never knew if the scope was 1/4 click or not.
Thank you, Steven. THis is a great help as i just purchased my first rifle and scope and have yet to get to the range. My one question is where to set the turrets at BEFORE i start to zero it out? In other words, should i have turrets it turned "half way" so i can have the most possible up and down adjustment in number of clicks?
Question. Does the muzzle brake make a difference with the 6.5? I’ve been debating if I should get one with a break or not. I have no Experience with that caliber.
It depends on the caliber, bullet, load, etc. Many factors, but this IS very good information to have. Bullets trajectories are not flat as you know, they arch. So you WILL have two zero points for each load. As an example, I shoot a 5.56 for coyote, hog, and even deer. With my 16” barreled rifle, I have a 50 yard zero. My rifle is zeroed at 50 yards, and then again at 200 yards when shooting a 55g and 62gr projectile(depending on what I’m shooting for). The elevation variance is about 1.5”, UP, in between these ranges. So at 125 yards I know I’m impacting 1.5” higher than my zero. For most all of the shots I’m taking, I can range and account for this with a slight under-hold with no adjustment necessary. When shooting further out last 200 yards, I have a dope card and can easily adjust my turret for elevation and it’s just wind and consistency from that stage. But it is very nice to know where I’m hitting within the range of the two consistent points of impact.
After the first shot or grouping, position your rifle so the scope crosshair is now on first shot or center of your grouping then adjust your scope crosshair onto the target bull's eye.
That's good for a rough quick zero if you have a rock solid rest but if you move the rifle at all you have issues and you are also going off a 1 shot sample which equates to not much in the way of exact precision.
The adjustments in the scope are made using a different unit of measurement from moa to mrad. At 100 yards one click on a ln moa scope is usually .25 moa which is about .26 inches. On an mrad scope it's usually 1/10 mrad or .36 inches at 100 yards per click.
Think of one click on an moa scope at a 1/4 inch and on an mrad one click as a 1/4 inch at 100 yards. I like the grid targets as it helps me with moa scopes easily calculate corrections
Is there a book to buy to learn how to use moa scopes and all that? I wanna get into a 300 prc to learn to shoot long range all help would be appreciated
Why does my scope always lose zero? I lock the screws, zero it in, put locktite on the screws. After days the zero is gone. I have two rings with stopper, X screw configuration, hawke scope and airventuri avenger AR. Does temperature and vibration have so much impact on it?
If everything is torqued down correctly and the rings are making contact correctly with the scope tube it's the scope itself. You probably have a bad scope
Do you use a BDC reticle? If so, do you shoot a different distances to check if it’s on? I’m trying to save as much ammo as possible when I go sight in. Thanks for making useful videos like these!
Have you noticed any “drift” with the carbon fiber wrapped barrels? I have a Christensen Arms Ridgeline .308 and it does not group well with premium ammunition at all. Wondering if anyone else has experienced something similar.
I know this is an old comment but it depends on whether your scope is first for second focal plane. If it’s first focal plane zoom can affect your zero, but if it’s second focal plane your zero will not be affected by zoom level.
if you zero a 6.5 creedmoor per say at 100 yards it will drop about 2 to 4 inches from 100 to 200 yards. So beyond 200 yards its best to use hold overs or dial
And then you go out actually hunting and you see a deer and all you have is an old log to rest your rifle on and you are breathing heavy and shaking and you are like jeez, it seemed so easy when I had my gun on a vice holder and it didnt move at all and I was grouping all my shots within an inch of each other.
I have to say your info was great until you shot at the little square instead of the large one we were expecting. An I’m sure you have an explanation but most of us were expecting you to hit the large.
You either messed that left adjustment up or I would not be happy with that high dollar scope when clicking 9 clicks expecting center and being 4 clicks too far left after the adjustment. 🤔
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Good instructional. Thanks for no fancy intro w heavy metal or blue grass music.
No problem!
Yes I appreciate that too 🤣
Great advice... My Grandad got me trained on this when I was younger. Been doing it for 40 plus years. . Great information. Thanks
Thanks for watching
Heading out to the range with this info and dial in a new rifle. Thanks for the no nonsense advice.
This is the best sensible way for a beginner to sight in a new set up.I find removing the bolt to center on the target works better for me than the laser bore sighter I never use.Some of these so called experts have some really odd ways of sighting in their guns. This system works ,great video. I guess my eyes are old because I have to start at the 25 yard line when looking through the barrel but basically I use the same method. That is one awesome looking rifle, thanks for sharing, I hope beginners out there watch this video it will absolutely save them time and frustration, Regards
The clarity of the images you captured is fantastic. Great job!
Thank you very much!
I installed this optic on a crossman 760 air rifle.I have now shot the riffle around 500 times during target/plinking practice, and the ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxc4K63Fd5LglDMObu7-Bgapxp_ef0W8hE scope has done well.With this optic, I have neutralized around 30 pigeons that were invading one of my buildings.For my short range air rifle, I will continue to use this scope, but will be upgrading to a more powerful scope, when I buy a more powerful air rifle, in order to shoot at longer distance.For the money I have spent, this scope has truly been a great buy.
The last rifle I sighted in only took 3 rounds. It was my Ruger American in 308 firing 180 grain winchester power points. I always let them barrels cool for 15 minutes between shots to let them barrels retract from the heat. You'll shoot alot smaller groups and your gun will last longer. 👌
Good to know . Ive just brought an American ruger 243 and a 22
Really appreciate the practical tips on maintenance. Very helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
promissed nothing... delivered everything!
You zeroed the hell out that scope. Nice and Thank you!
You bet
Bore sight at 25, then 3 shots at 100. Then just move the scope to be in the middle of the 3 shots, then 1 shot to verify your zero, there scope is zeroed in 4 shots.
I have zeroed a few rifles over the past 5 years and never knew if the scope was 1/4 click or not.
That’s a good idea
Thank you, Steven. THis is a great help as i just purchased my first rifle and scope and have yet to get to the range. My one question is where to set the turrets at BEFORE i start to zero it out? In other words, should i have turrets it turned "half way" so i can have the most possible up and down adjustment in number of clicks?
Well done !
5:08 - looks like several rounds were placed into the chamber, then a quick cut away lol - mistake?
Blast, I know about the reloading H110 RCBS 1144, 1202, 1212, 44 mag
This video is Helpful
😊
Great video. Thank you
Thank you Bobby
I’m new to scope terminology and zeroing.
Curious why you didn’t confirm your adjustments by shooting at the center target again.
Thank you 🙏🏾 I’m trying not criticize people’s videos but Dam it didn’t make no sense!!
If I had to guess, I'd say its because its too big of a square to know if you're on or not
Nice video, very informative and to the point, appreciate it!
Thank you Darrick
Should your scope be on max zoom?
Your zoom won’t affect your zero
Question. Does the muzzle brake make a difference with the 6.5? I’ve been debating if I should get one with a break or not. I have no Experience with that caliber.
It does but not really necessary
Excellent video! If zeroed in on 100 yards, how much further yards would you still be able to hit dead on?
Technically none.. but with most cartridges out to about 200 would be within 4 inches
@@Bullets4Bucks Thanks a bunch! You're awesome man! 👍🏽👍🏽
It depends on the caliber, bullet, load, etc. Many factors, but this IS very good information to have.
Bullets trajectories are not flat as you know, they arch. So you WILL have two zero points for each load.
As an example, I shoot a 5.56 for coyote, hog, and even deer. With my 16” barreled rifle, I have a 50 yard zero. My rifle is zeroed at 50 yards, and then again at 200 yards when shooting a 55g and 62gr projectile(depending on what I’m shooting for).
The elevation variance is about 1.5”, UP, in between these ranges. So at 125 yards I know I’m impacting 1.5” higher than my zero.
For most all of the shots I’m taking, I can range and account for this with a slight under-hold with no adjustment necessary.
When shooting further out last 200 yards, I have a dope card and can easily adjust my turret for elevation and it’s just wind and consistency from that stage. But it is very nice to know where I’m hitting within the range of the two consistent points of impact.
@@dholiday9315 Got you. Nice Explanation.
Great video! What brand and size scope you’re using?
Good Video Stephen, it should help a lot of people.
Hopefully
Thank you for how-to video. Any suggestions on how to zero up a scout scope on a Springfield M1A socom 16?
Laser bore sight and then paper at 50 yards
@Bullets4Bucks good morning. Thank you for the information. What a good laser bore site? I guess just look that up?
@jamesdelong6401 the brass cartridge variety I like but there are many types and companies
@Bullets4Bucks ok. I'll look that up. HUGE thanks on your information. Have a safe and happy Monday.
Excellent, that is exactly what I wanted to know.
Glad it helped Robert
Thank you.
After the first shot or grouping, position your rifle so the scope crosshair is now on first shot or center of your grouping then adjust your scope crosshair onto the target bull's eye.
That's good for a rough quick zero if you have a rock solid rest but if you move the rifle at all you have issues and you are also going off a 1 shot sample which equates to not much in the way of exact precision.
@@Bullets4Bucks Hyskore rifle rest with trigger release. I never pull the trigger myself when I'm zeroing a rifle.
I have an MRAD scope. How are the adjustments different when using that 1 inch grid target?
The adjustments in the scope are made using a different unit of measurement from moa to mrad. At 100 yards one click on a ln moa scope is usually .25 moa which is about .26 inches. On an mrad scope it's usually 1/10 mrad or .36 inches at 100 yards per click.
Think of one click on an moa scope at a 1/4 inch and on an mrad one click as a 1/4 inch at 100 yards. I like the grid targets as it helps me with moa scopes easily calculate corrections
@@Bullets4Bucks I'll be sure to try that this weekend. Thanks for the reply 👍
Very good to the point video!
Thanks zen
Is there a book to buy to learn how to use moa scopes and all that? I wanna get into a 300 prc to learn to shoot long range all help would be appreciated
Lots of youtube video explaining moa and how it works... maybe one day i will get around to making my own video on it.
Great Job!!
Thanks Joe
Why does my scope always lose zero? I lock the screws, zero it in, put locktite on the screws. After days the zero is gone. I have two rings with stopper, X screw configuration, hawke scope and airventuri avenger AR. Does temperature and vibration have so much impact on it?
If everything is torqued down correctly and the rings are making contact correctly with the scope tube it's the scope itself. You probably have a bad scope
What ammunition are you shooting? Is that 30-06?
6.5 creedmoor eldx
Do you use a BDC reticle? If so, do you shoot a different distances to check if it’s on? I’m trying to save as much ammo as possible when I go sight in. Thanks for making useful videos like these!
I do but I love to dial my elevation if i have time
Awesome video
Thanks
Have you noticed any “drift” with the carbon fiber wrapped barrels? I have a Christensen Arms Ridgeline .308 and it does not group well with premium ammunition at all. Wondering if anyone else has experienced something similar.
Not yet with this rifle but my Christensen doesn't work so I haven't been shooting it lol it ejects brass into the scope bad lol
@@Bullets4Bucks Interesting, I wonder if I just got a bad gun.
What is the rifle and scope you are using?
Does magnification on low or high affect the zeroing??🤔
No
I know this is an old comment but it depends on whether your scope is first for second focal plane. If it’s first focal plane zoom can affect your zero, but if it’s second focal plane your zero will not be affected by zoom level.
Awesome👍☕💪
HELLO, IF YOU SIGHT YOUR RIFLE AT 100 YARDS, IT WILL BE ACCURATE UP TO WHAT DISTANCE?
with most cartridges out to about 200 it will still be close
if you zero a 6.5 creedmoor per say at 100 yards it will drop about 2 to 4 inches from 100 to 200 yards. So beyond 200 yards its best to use hold overs or dial
Lots of western hunters zero at 200 so they are mostly good on a a large game animal from 0 to 300 yards.
Ench
Can we see a comparison with other scopes? 🤔📊
can you show us how to zero rifle with 1/8 moa scopes in 100 yards tnx
Basically it's the same just 2 clicks per 1/4 inch instead of 1
Incase of Semi-Auto it will be difficult to see through the Rifle hole
Looks like you could handle most anything that needs handled within 100 yds pretty easy
I would hope so
Wouldn’t it be easier just to move the crosshairs over the 1st shot placement then aim at the bulls eye once adjusted?
The gun shifts too much in the rest
Sounds very good but you become too technical towards the end especially tightening the scope with something I didn't get that part
My other zeroing video might help you more
What scope are you using?
why are other people saying follow the bullet?
And then you go out actually hunting and you see a deer and all you have is an old log to rest your rifle on and you are breathing heavy and shaking and you are like jeez, it seemed so easy when I had my gun on a vice holder and it didnt move at all and I was grouping all my shots within an inch of each other.
Seems like you just experienced buck fever. Some of us get tunnel vision once we get used to it bubba.
I have to say your info was great until you shot at the little square instead of the large one we were expecting. An I’m sure you have an explanation but most of us were expecting you to hit the large.
Why would that matter? I like the smaller squares or corners of the squares as aiming points so I can more easily focus on a smaller point of aim
@@Bullets4Bucks I appreciate the info. Just letting you know how some viewers including myself felt.
And I thought you were going to shoot with two rounds in...;-)
👍👍👍👍
I have a problem with how to zero my scope
What's the problem?
@@Bullets4Bucks whenever I shoot ot takes the wrong direction
Am in Southern Africa Botswana
😂😂 lol Two and a quarter clicks is how many clicks
Lol
You either messed that left adjustment up or I would not be happy with that high dollar scope when clicking 9 clicks expecting center and being 4 clicks too far left after the adjustment. 🤔
Get a laser. It’s the new way. Can zero in 30 seconds and save ammo for the looming war.
Honestly think most laser sighters are a waste of time and you still have to shoot to properly zero your scope.
I don’t agree. It will def save some ammo.
@@Bullets4Bucks agreed laser just get you on paper
@@Wesmancan laser won't get you past 25meters. You only need about 6-8 rounds to get sub moa shots.
@@Wesmancan LOL
BS two shots when you yah know what your doing... Not this over thinking crap
Lol good luck with that
How does it perform at longer ranges? 📏🚀