BAD BMW 328i N20 Engine Teardown! Customer Returned, And Now Its Ruined! What A Waste!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- Please visit www.Importapart.com to view some of the thousands of parts we have available for purchase! If you don't see what you need, you can fill out a request form which lets us know exactly what you are looking for. You can also email us at Importapartsales@gmail.com.
Today we tear down a customer returned BMW N20 Turbo 4 cylinder. These engines are a super hot commodity in the salvage industry and with multiple failure modes its easy to understand why. This is the very first N20 I've torn down but its fairly similar to the N55 engine, which I have torn down on this channel. These engines are suprisingly simple to work on, although they have complex systems like Valvetronic for example. This engine came out in 2011 and can be found in the 3 series, 320i, 328i, The X1, X3, and the 5 series, 528i. Other displacement N20's are also found in front wheel drive mini coopers.
If you're wondering why i'm doing this: I own and run a full service auto salvage yard and part of our model is dismantling blown engines to salvage the good parts to resell. Our business name is Importapart but we do domestic vehicles too.
As always I appreciate all of the comments, feedback, and even the criticism.
Catch you on the next one!
Will there be a midweek video? You'll have to wait and see!
-Eric
I have a 2014 Z4 (E89) with this engine. The engine is fine, light and punchy. But there is a class-action lawsuit settlement for the timing chain guides disintegrating. Mine came from the factory with a cracked valve cover though. The car ALWAYS smelled like burning oil after I'd drive it. Just for a few seconds. Turns out the leak was teensy and it would occasionally drip oil onto the cat. I am eternally grateful to the BMW tech who finally found it and replaced the cover (7 years after I bought it). Sorry we didn't get to see the turbo. But I'm glad this one came up!
Changing the valve cover gasket was a PITA and they recommend replacing the whole valve cover at the same time! Plastic fantastic.
Those years of training came in handy when using that small rod fuel injector tool
Took me a second but 😂
When I brought my 128i in for the Takata airbag recall, the service manager told me to stay away from anything with an N20. Amazingly, the timing chain guides on this one were not worn out. That leads me to think this is either not a high mileage engine, or they've been replaced. Those rod bearings didn't look great.
With the sand on the intake manifold,water damage could be flood damage.Non running flood damage
Flood engine - yes.
It looks like 8 computer controlled mouse traps run the valve train train, or is it valve valve train, hmm.... Watching you tear down things, build things, restore things, clean things, breath on things, sell things, and generally work in your shops is one of my favorite weekly things to do. Keep it up.
the valvetronic is interesting but also adds complexity. No throttle body, all air flow is controlled by intake valve lift. They say it minimizes pumping losses for efficiency.
But when the valvetronic motor and/or eccentric shaft goes, you're looking at a pretty expensive repair. The shaft alone is $1K!
100% Agree I have had several e46 BMW's, I now have a 20year old e46 330i with nearly 250k miles on it and it drives perfectly without leaks.... seriously doubt that any of the F or G series will make those miles....even with proper maintenance.
Me either. We're at an age of planned obsolescence and there will be no classic BMWs on the roads of the future unless they have total replacement engines and drivetrains and electronic dash consoles. The damn G cars are totally LED screen dash--that shit won't last.
@@bb5242 Reminds me of the 80's fashion of fluorescent digital dashboards. It didn't last for long.
I agree with you, though the E30's from 1984 to 1990 were damn good. My first one was a 1985 2-door 323i. If anything it was better built than the following two E30 325i's I owned (1986 4-door, 1987 2-door). All told about 330,000 miles with all three car's mileages added together and no significant problems, didn't have to replace anything mechanical. Loved the M20 engines, loved the cars, they drove really nicely. The 1988 cars were the first ones fitted with cats in the EU and were slightly softer.
That was so cool to see how the valvetronic works. Thank you for showing us!
Glad your viewers get to see what a mechanic goes through to fix an engine now days, no longer a Back Yard mechanics job!
28:40-Besides the PCV diaphragm rupturing in a valve cover, that's a nice view of why the N20 uses so much oil.
BMW "pretty good". I bet you say the same thing about hemorrhoids.
Pretty good because he must make alot of money from them
Would love to see a supercharged w11 engine out in the early 2000s Mini Cooper S.
Or even the dreaded N16 from the R56 S
@@headcas620 My neighbour has a modded R56 cooper S, it’s always got something wrong with it.
It’s a shame, they could be a neat car.
@@zeroyon4562 I had an R53 MINI Cooper S. It was a riot to drive. No engine issues with my supercharged unit, even after a few mods. I'm glad it went to a good second owner.
if you can find one lmfao I didn't think any of those were still alive
We have a 2001 325 ci convertible. It is now 23 years old with 89,000 miles.
Grandpa’s chain cutters still work!
Blew up two of these now I’m watching this
Wait till you get an injector seized in the head and you need to replace the head and all the injectors. Which usually leads to engine replacement just for a stupid injector
Watching this gives me the distinct opinion that this engine is way over engineered thus it is prone to breaking down much to early in it life. There is an old saying "KISS, Keep It Simple Stupid" something that the BMW people apparently have never heard before. Unfortunately they think of them selves as engineering geniuses when in fact they make themselves out to be fools.
The BMW N52/N51 are nearly as complicated, but not turbo'ed or direct injected. They are some of the more reliable BMW engines. The N54/N55, not so much, although they can make ridiculous power. I had to laugh when Eric pulled off the thermostat. It's the only part that has failed on my N52. Plastic junk, and you have to remove the coolant pump to get at it, so new pump went in.
I used to work on BMW 2002,s independent rear and the engine had a chain instead of a rubber band
Back to oil changes. With the way they do ring package on these engines you need to change oil every 2 to 3k miles. I would use mineral base oils. They do much better job at cleaning your engine than synthetic oils. From most of your engine teardowns way to much carbon build up on major parts. Even if you can add just one quart of mineral oil to synthetic oils would be a great help. JMO is all.
Great show
The poof out the spark plug hole was perfect @ 4:40
Thanks for the video, I have an n20 engine with 200000 km like the engine
good afternoon......the Crankshaft for the N20 engine can be rectified
My mechanic says they hate to work on BMWs because of all the “BMW plastic” that tends to crack and break.
Always gotta rip on the N63. Dammit, I’d take an N63 over the M62, and even the S62, any day. Especially a TU, R or B. I find the older naturally aspirated BMWs very underwhelming.
On the valve cover it had 140530 which could be mileage
I think that was a stock number
I changed my oil every 3000 miles. N20 X1. No issues except it was so damn noisy. Worst issue was the timing belt tensioner failure.
That huge oil pump also has a balancing device inside. The overdrive to the unit is a give away. Good idea not taking it apart.
Christian J
3 hours ago (edited)
The timing chain guide was broken - no surprise there... the piece you pulled separately after the head was off, should be attached to the other long piece (there's a round connector with some interlocking tabs/retainers).
I would check inside the actual pickup of the oil pump... believe it or not, sometimes you can fish small bits of plastic from within the spherical dent of the pickup filter (up under the lip).
The main torx bolt holding the sprocket/guide/chain to the oil pump needs to be removed, along with the 3 other smaller torx bolts you can see... the whole oil pump chain drive & tensioner assembly can then be removed. It should be replaced with the latest reference design by whoever buys the pump.
Don't stress about the alignment of the oil pump drive sprocket in relation to the pump (and balance shaft assembly) - the tiny hole next to the bolt, holding the oil pump pickup in place - is where you insert a locking pin during assembly, in order to time the oil pump's balance shafts to the rest of the engine. If you turn the pump over and look down the hole, you'll see at a certain position the shaft inside has a hole drilled into it.
PS. N20 oil pumps are pretty noisy... it's pretty much a luck-of-the-draw if you get one that whines... most of them do, and it's not an issue.
The poofs of rust dust out the plug holes as he turned it over! 😄
Literally been waiting for this engine lol
I have that same harbor freight socket wrench. Had it for years now
buyer took one look at the bores and went....... nope!
I want to purchase the entire engine, but put it back together.😮
How much for that crankshaft?
I would like to see you tear down a Chevrolet 2.0 Turbo engine from an HHR SS or Cobalt SS. Enjoy watching your vids every Saturday night!
BMW - Great Example of Over Enginered vs Reliable
So whats the story on the two Mazdas in the background?
Wonder if the balance shaft is part of the oil pump, would explain the size
An engine in such high demand it rusted out sitting in the back lot
Honda says 8000 kms but I do it at 5000.
I recently rebuilt my n20 engine and have no spark. No error codes or faults. Do you have any words or advice ?
Hi, congratulations from the UK on an excellent and informative channel. After owning dozens of cars, I'd be interested in your opinion on the most reliable four cylinder engine - irrespective of performance? Also, do you think turbos still impose a reliability headwind? I'd have to say my old Honda K24 would take some beating. Kind regards, James.
Don't your diesel engines over there run forever?
can you buy more engines that have excessively tight head bolts PLEASE
Does it seem a little strange that someone would leave a possibly good engine outdoors in the rain, without at least throwing a piece of plastic sheet over it?
First? Cool. BMW: Big Money Waste. 😉
Let’s mount a heat sensitive pcm to the engine
A 10k mile oil change interval, on a Turbo direct injected engine, is a recipe for disaster. Direct injected engines are dirty already, I have to imagine BMW only cared about getting these things through the warranty period, and nothing more.
Still waiting for a VW VR6 r32 engine teardown.
Just rebuilt one of these. Pretty simple engine just poor parts quality, and way too long service intervals kill these
God help you if you need a head gasket changed on that
When the cost of an oil change is 10% of your car's market value, going 10k between changes is fiiiiine.
Just check your oil color when you pull out your dipstick.
What dipstick? Most newer BMWs don't have one!
@@jeandunow7794 Nether did my Audi S4, until I stuck one in there. But if you're BMW is worth that little, it's because it already has more issues than just an oil change.
@@SpankMyFace I gave up on BMWs newer than 2008...my 1990 E30 and my 2001 3.0 Z3 are probably the last BMW cars I'll own. None of their new stuff appeals to me anyway.
I look forward to these videos, every Saturday evening. As a mechanic of 55+ years, it's always enjoyable to see an engine teardown. It reminds me of my long career.
55 years as a mechanic/tech is pretty long. Congrats to striving for that long to spin wrenches. I went 2.5 years and said nah this ain't for me....main reason is I lacked motivation to work on my own projects and junk after working on other peoples shitboxes/crap 55 hours a week. Merged into HVAC/reefer...11 years later now a Union Building Engineer. Now I just work on big ass buildings and everything in them and operate 4000+ ton chiller plants😆
One of the only BMW engines I've had to replace (while working for a German car specialist, and not including Mini even though the are BMW) was one of these. It was a 5-series that only had like 50k miles on it and had a very unusual tapping sound and a failed HP fuel pump. The car was owned by a used car dealer, and their in-house "mechanic" (I use that term very loosely) had already shotgunned a ton of parts at the car, including a "engine rebuild." The HP pump didn't make any pressure at all and the tapping noise wasn't obvious, so I replaced the HPFP first. After that, it drove perfectly but still had a tapping noise. The problem ended up being that one of the connecting rods was very slightly bent. I found it by measuring the piston height when each of the pistons was at TDC and one of them was a couple mm less than the rest. I took the bottom end of the engine apart and all the bearings looked perfect. Never figured out how one of the rods got bent, and the dealer "mechanic" had messed with so much stuff on the engine it was impossible to know what was the original issue at what got installed by them. Luckily, on a 5-series, these engines are wonderfully simple to replace (by BMW standards).
The "oil pump assembly" on these engines includes counter-balance shafts. That's the only reason it is so big. The oil pump itself is nothing special.
To be clear, there are plenty of other BMW engine issues out there that are *incredibly* expensive to repair, but most of them don't require replacing the entire engine. Their reliability is horrible, but except for the newer turbo engines, catastrophic failure that requires replacing the entire engine is rare.
The Mini engines, pretty much from the moment that BMW re-released the Mini, are all junk, and I mean *junk* . The early ones are basically a Dodge Neon engine and have constant timing chain issues. The newer ones are BMW design and are basically guaranteed not to make it to 100k miles, even if you take good care of them.
That's interesting on the Mini side of things, we have a 2017 R60 1600cc auto, runs beautifully atm, only 36k kms and I make sure that it is looked after with good synthetic oils on a regular basis. Hope it lasts longer than the 160k kms as you say.
Earlier minis are horrible. I've heard less bad things about prince engines, but they aren't stellar.
@@vumba1331 dude, you car has only 22k miles….of course it runs fine. You’re still within the engineered “within warranty” lifespan of the engine components. If you can make it to 36k miles or 58k kms report back😂
I've always been impressed with BMW's engine longevity considering the insane oil change intervals they used to spec. My N52 328i with 150k miles has received 15k oil changes all the way up until I bought it. Engine doesn't burn ANY oil, runs smooth as a new car. Lots of varnish when I got it but a quart of marvel mystery oil cleaned it up a fair bit and took care of a noisy lifter.
I've trusted it as my daily driver for the past year and have driven it across the country three times now. Haven't had a problem with it besides a starter going out. Curious to see how long it'll last, probably not as long as my 450k mile Honda Accord but time will tell.
I’d only buy an inline-6 from BMW. Currently have a B58 & planning on getting an S55 next. Previously owned an N52 & M54. Never had a major issue with any BMW I’ve owned. Actually the biggest issue I’ve ever had was a flat tire.
Humble request, and you probably never see these in your shop because... well, why would you? But I'd love to see the following: Old Mopar small block, like a 318; A high-revving supercar engine like a Ferrari 12 cyl, and something with a huge displacement like a boat engine - perhaps a Volvo Penta or Cummings.
you are right! engine is expensive. oil change is cheap! I use synthetic oil and change every 5k religious
That engine looks like it belongs in a Kia, not a BMW
Well Rod Berings are a wear item on most newer BMW engines 😂
No they’re not unless new to you is 15 years ago
I wonder if the monster sized oil pump has a balance shaft or weight hiding inside it.
Even the chain drive looked like it had a 1:2 ratio.
I was asking myself the same question.
It does. I had to look it up but the pump and balance shaft assembly are one happy family. Quite a pricey one too.
@@agenericaccount3935 Wow, no wonder they're valuable. Leave it to the Germans haha...
@@agenericaccount3935 because it’s for the V8 engine, the N20 uses same head, piston, rod, as the N63 V8.
@@PatricioGarcia1973 neat, I guess?
Rust dust shooting out the plug holes? Nice
It's 1:51am here in the UK but still here I am
Yes mate
1:12am for me in the US
2:01am 😂
I will never understand these excessively long oil change intervals. If you can afford a high cost, extremely low resale value luxury vehicle, surely you can afford to change on the oil every 6 or so months.
The carnage teardowns are entertaining for sure, but I get just as much enjoyment watching a regular teardown. It's still interesting to see how things are supposed to be.
Same! It's always neat to watch an engine get torn down, and every time I see one it builds confidence that engines are, ultimately, simple beasts once you get past the wiring harness and emissions crap.
.............. except for German cars lol
Yeah, all these luxury manufacturers went to 10,000 mile oil change intervals when they started offering oil changes as part of the initial service package that came with the car. It was never in the best interest of maintenance or longevity. I was just marketing to dangle a carrot in front of the consumer and then trying to pay as little for that carrot as possible.... consequences be darned.
Or maybe it was wrecked car that was totaled and set in a salvage yard and got rained in the motor was sold that's why the heat tabs are on it but they figured out was full of rust and they brought it back and then they sold it to you more than likely that was the scenario
The complexity of this engine is daunting.
A friend moving to NY asked me if I wanted to buy their M4. It was squealing so replaced a lot of tensioners, pullies, and belts. Turned out to be a bad PCV valve (built into the intake manifold. $600 worth of plastic (It does come with new hardware permanently affixed to the plastic which is cool. Some how it would up taking almost 6 hours to replace. Spent about $1200 on it and fixed the noise, but I gave it back to her. Had no idea how cramped working on an inline RWD could be and how difficult they could make a valve cover gasket job or even spark plugs.
The car probably got submerged while parked. That's how the engine took water. So they pulled it and it sat for awhile.
I got a question, are all of the engines you get actually blown?
Definitely not! I’ve gotten several with misdiagnosis
10K oil changes is from the marketing department to make people think they're cheap to maintain. All they care about it they get through the warranty period with as few claims as possible. If you rent it, then do what they say. If you own it and want to keep it, every 6 months or 5K.
Agreed… also why a feller should be really careful on the used market
10k oil changes should be criminal.
@@rickmoranis392
I saw this when I worked for Audi.10K service interval. Constant vehicles coming in at 7K with an oil level light on. They asked to top it off. Then they take that 2 quarts of fresh oil along with the sludge that was in there out to maybe 11 or 12,000. So by the time they turn it in at 50k, it maybe had four oil changes. It's the poor sucker who buys them off lease thinking they bought a low mileage well cared for vehicle that gets stuck with the problems.
Also, lifetime trans fluid is part of that "inexpensive to maintain" bs.
And yet I test my oil every change at 9-9500 and ZERO wear issues. There are companies out there who can tell you everything about your oil and engines, seen data with good oil and 20k no problems
@@ronnymb67 exactly! People say to buy used cause it’s the best deal… I beg to differ. I change all of my fluids before the OEM recommendation. Pretty much every new vehicle has quirks these days. I have a GMC Sierra. Direct injection only, so I had to add a catch can. Recommended oil change is around 7500 I think… hard pass! Transmissions run too hot and fry torque converters… gotta bypass the trans thermostat and change the fluid before recommendation. These new vehicles only last if you buy them new and know not to follow the OEM guidelines… IMO (for the internet lawyers). I’m sure there’s that one guy that only followed OEM recommendations and has 500K miles on his BMW he bought new in 2014
4:52 Is that dust shooting out of the engine or????
Out of the cylinder. Good eyes
I saw that and chuckled
Rust
Great video and word to the wise. Squirt some wd40 on those cylinder walls when removing the pistons and it might help the Sliiiddee out :)
Some notes for future vids and to anyone working on these:
Yes, vacuum pump has to come off to do the valve cover or gasket. It is not difficult to reinstall, just don't mess with the gear and it will slip right in, you'll feel it. There are also dowels of sorts for the bolts so just put it where it was before and you'll be able to reassemble it with no problem. You also should remove the VANOS solenoids so you aren't fighting them like Eric was, it is literally 2 screws on each one, just don't fuck up the placement
Turbocharger linkages are known to have issues with pins rusting in place and/or breaking. This can happen on the turbo side or on the wastegate side
They had vacuum wastegates in the first year or two and electronic ever after
The intake has to come off per the FSM to replace the oil filter housing or the gasket. You can instead loosen the five nuts that hold it and have either a buddy or an object of some sort hold up the intake while you force an E10 (or E12, can't quite remember) over the bolt with a swivel and an extension attached. In either case, the computer has to come off so be gentle with harnesses. I find it easier to remove them entirely. If you are gentle and a little lucky, you can get away without ripping the intake seals and just put it back on as is.
if you unclip the coils, injectors, grounds, the entire harness on the front of the valve cover can be removed as a unit after also being disconnected from the ECM. The Valvetronic harness is also easy to remove as a unit, all it has is 4 pins for the motor and its position
Great Video! The N20's and N26's (SULEV) that were installed in xDrives, were fitted with a metal oil pan. The non xDrives have a plastic oil pan.
I do 10K oil changes on my Tundra and did the prior two Tundras. I use Mobile1 0W-20 and a mobile 1 oil filter (although they cheapened it this past year) So far on my current tundra combined with the last two, I have 1.4 million collective miles. If you buy a quality vehicle with a quality engine and use quality oil, 10K is no big deal.
Thank you for finally doing an N20.
Most people don’t realize it but the N20 is exactly 1/2 of the N63 V8. Engine geometry, Pistons, cylinder head, fuel injections, valvetronic, many gaskets and seals, and…….. *oil pump* are all shared with the N63 V8. That would probably be why the oil pump is so huge for such a small engine.
I was going to guess that the oil pump houses balance shafts for the engine, but that also makes a whole lot of sense.
Wow, just another reason not to buy one of these. 😂
I always assumed the N20 was just the N55 missing two cylinders. This is what BMW has done with their modern B48 engine which is just the B58 missing a few cylinders. N63 engines are 4.4L, with a bore of 89mm and a stroke of around 88.3 something mm. I own a N63Tu and though the reputation for N63 engines are pretty down in the dumpster, i’d consider them to be at least slightly more reliable than the N20s just from what I’ve seen.
Personally I can't complain about my N20. I have a '13 528i xDrive i've owned since new and aside from 5k mile oil changes, one motor mount, and turbo oil check valve replaced under service bulletin, the car has given me 9 years and 100k miles of impeccable service.
Any Gas Di engine gets oil dilution from the gas, and that's bad man.... Unless you like killing bearings, then go nuts with 10,000 mile oil changes 🤣
I would rate BMW as one of the worst vehicles ever built.....My sister had one it leaked fluid from every possible area ....engine, Diffs, transmission, power steering that car was a pile of garbage!!!
Maybe a video on how to inspect a engine to see if it was in a flood? With the hurricane, I bet a lot of salt water flooded engines will be popping up.
rust in places it isnt normally. the exhaust and anything that gets hot rusts up fast, but anything else rusty is a bad sign
@@bradhaines3142 you havent worked on cars that drive on salted roads
That was my first thought--flood car, typical salvage engine guy was like "this is fine." Nope.
@@alexstromberg7696 I live in Québec, Canada and I agree with you. We have 7 months of winter and we couldn't keep a car for more than 5 years in the 80's. Especially Ford and chrysler products. They rusted aways pretty fast. Early Japanese cars too.
Interesting engine with the design of valvetronic as well as how they chose to isolate the fuel injectors and spark plug tubes from the rest of the head.
This may be my overactive hoarding instinct but I get the sense in 10-20 years some people would have been interested in some of those mint looking timing chain guides that get chucked when the replacements are ether bad or non-existent... I know they always get replaced if there needs to be a timing service due to the time and labor cost but I could see that part on some engine being the linch pin on a restore job.
None is going go restore the cars that have these engines
Flood engine... Unscrupulous salvage yard sold it, buyer figured it out and returned.
Gonna guess timing chain guides. These engines are Peugeot designed garbage.
Discovered your channel recently.
I'm not a car person by much, mostly an interesting topic to me as my hobbies are computer related.
How ever you've given me so much more knowledge on engines through the teardown videos that I decided to do work on my own Prius engine and did head gasket and a few other things on my own.
Thanks a lot!
rust dust was poofing out the plug holes 😆
Working on my E30 and E39 was always fun and straightforward. My e92 335i was a pain in the ass. My wife has a e90 328i and while I love the handling, I hate the SULEV valvetronic N51 engine. Not only does it feel choked in both performance and tone from the extra cat, the valvetronic system really takes the fun out of revving it out. My M20 (and later M50) e30 loved to rev and sing to redline. Same with the 540i. The N51 seems to resist it. Perhaps I need to drive an N52.
Honestly, that seems to explain many of the turbo 4 cylinders these days. They all seem to run about the same and feel soggy in the last 500-1000 rpm. A lot of cool engines are getting superceded with lukewarm turbo 4 cylinders. 240 hp doesn't feel all that fast anymore and less than 200 hp feels like a dog with the kind of curb weights rolling around out there these days. Cars just aren't as fun to drive as they used to be.
I would never use that brass tool on a piston to knock it out brass is harder than aluminum so yes you will score up your piston knocking it out with brass a wood dial is the best I would absolutely never use brass on a aluminum piston
Shout out to Brian Patton from Ontario!
I believe starting in 97, BMW engineers added a a minimum 1/8th inch of dirt to the top of the intake manifolds from factory. 🤣
Been a tech for 36 years, I change the oil on my 2011 camry v6 every 4k k s with high quality synthetic oil. That 60.00 I spend every 4-5 months is nothing compared to the money you save in the end
Eric, we love to see you come out ahead!
“The rod is never long enough” perfect setup for a that’s what she said joke
Im hearing you........I feel the same way about Beamers........10,000 mile oil changes are complete Bullsh1t..........way too long.
What a over engineered piece of junk not unlike most engines of today
Eric, I must agree with all of the comments below concerning oil change / fluid replacement but that's the MARKETING DEPT FOR THE ULTINATE DRIVING MACHINE BS. Thank you for another wonderful video sir but best if all how is you new baby doing ???? ❤️ congrats Eric. My best to all TMP from N.J.
I've always been taught that German cars were all about 'perfect engineering', but that oil pump, what the hell, WHAT THE HELL!?!
Most german designed things are over engineered so much they dont work in the real world.
Christian J
3 hours ago (edited)
The timing chain guide was broken - no surprise there... the piece you pulled separately after the head was off, should be attached to the other long piece (there's a round connector with some interlocking tabs/retainers).
I would check inside the actual pickup of the oil pump... believe it or not, sometimes you can fish small bits of plastic from within the spherical dent of the pickup filter (up under the lip).
The main torx bolt holding the sprocket/guide/chain to the oil pump needs to be removed, along with the 3 other smaller torx bolts you can see... the whole oil pump chain drive & tensioner assembly can then be removed. It should be replaced with the latest reference design by whoever buys the pump.
Don't stress about the alignment of the oil pump drive sprocket in relation to the pump (and balance shaft assembly) - the tiny hole next to the bolt, holding the oil pump pickup in place - is where you insert a locking pin during assembly, in order to time the oil pump's balance shafts to the rest of the engine. If you turn the pump over and look down the hole, you'll see at a certain position the shaft inside has a hole drilled into it.
PS. N20 oil pumps are pretty noisy... it's pretty much a luck-of-the-draw if you get one that whines... most of them do, and it's not an issue.
Would love to see a Hyundai gamma 1.6t gdi engine teardown
Ontario, California. Has to be, with that “breathing causes cancer”California standard warning on _everything_ ….
That's because konservatives don't like regulations so manufacturers are allowed to use harmful chemicals in their products.
You're looking at it backwards.
@@plymouth491 thank you. Didn’t know that. Nor the way conservative has been spelt. Live and learn eh?
PS: Now that I have been enlightened by my share of your wisdom, do me a favor and spare me next time you wish to react to a comment.
When I read the title before watching the video I was like "A 328i engine? How could someone ruin one of the best inline 6 cylinder engines ever made?" (disclaimer: I know nothing about BMW engine codes). Then I saw the engine and yeah...
In the old days when we saw a 320i, a 328i, a 330i, a 750i, we knew what engine and what displacement those cars had. Nowadays it's all a lie. The same with Mercedes.
When talking about oil change intervals several factors should be considered:
1.1 Type of driving, if 100% city MAX 6kmiles/10000km on any car/oil
1.2 If mixed 50/50 city/highway 10k miles/15000km will work with GOOD oil
1.3 If 100% or near all highway 15-20k miles/30000km will work for a good while like 100000-300000km/60-120k miles then you might get sludge problems
2. The type of oil you use
2.1 there are mineral, this should NOT be used on any CAR engine past 1990's unless just flushing the engine!
2.2 Semisynthetic is the same, don't use it on any newer car than 1990's unless flushing or going to just swap it after 1000-2000miles!
2.3 Full synthetic, this is what should be used on 1980's to early 2000's cars that DON'T have a lonlglife system (so all except BMW, VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda, Mercedes)
2.4 Esther based longlife oils, these are the ONLY ones that should be used if going over 6kmiles/10000km oil change intervals! And also only oils that should be used on DPF/PPF cars! These oils can take the 20kMiles/30000km intervals on highway driving. But they can't take it for any amount of time.
3. Engine size
Smaller engines need more often oil change because they get strained much more than a big engine in the same car. So if you have a 1,0L 3cyl turbocharged 120hp engine in a normal car it WILL need oil change more often than a 2,0L engine in the same car IF driven the same and has the same oil!
4. Engine oil capacity also plays a big role. A 4cyl 2,0L engine with 3,5L/Quarts oil will need half of the oil change interval than the same engine with 7,0L/Quarts of oil because in the bigger oil capacity there is double amount of oil to carry the unburned fuel that contaminates the oil.
Take a Mercedes-Benz Sprinter Van, they often here have a 4cyl 2,0 or 2,2L engine and 40-50000km oil change interval and 8,8L of engine oil on a 4cyl engine! The older generation had 20-30000km interval but they had only like 5-6L of oil!
I have a 1998 Volvo S90 that I did oil changes every 15000km/8800miles very precisely. I did 90% highway. The car now has 395000km/247k miles and the engine has 16bar/230Psi of compression believe it or not!
I also have an 2008 Audi A8L W12 with roughly 270k miles/430000km on it, all original engine: Oil change history every 30000km the first 300000km. After that I have changed it every 10-20000km. Engine runs well, compression is good. Car has seen most likely 90% highway as the first oil change was done at 30000km 3MONTHS old!
So yes, engines CAN last with those long life intervals BUT NOT in 100% city driving!!! It needs to be highway and constant speed!
10k .... my new work van has a service interval (1st service) of 50k kilometers... or 31k miles ... I can tell you there is no oil that has some lubrication features left after those distances ...
Today's 5th Gen Toyota Supra: Today's hideous Toyota design language paired up with BMW's hideous reliability.....
"the rod is never long enough", that's what she said
This engine is gonna be king of the junkyard in a few years, Bmw put them in everything. I have once in my 228i, it’s not bad, but it’s not special either. But if you mention this engine on the internet you’ll think they are all just waiting to blow up lol