It’s 5am and I’ve finally can say I’ve watched 12 hours of your channel. It’s so darn easy to watch. I feel I’ve amassed a huge library of information. Thank you guys!!
Not to be cheesy, but your videos inspire me to get to work the next day. I'm a handyman (retired band director), and I love what I do now, but it's even more exciting after viewing your videos. And your relationship with your son (at least on video) is second to none. Keep up the awesome work you guys. Aloha from Hawaii!!
It's nice to know I'm not the only person that lines up the slots in the screws!! I've been more than convinced, I need to start using Wagos instead of restricting (and fighting) myself the way I have been with wire nuts! There are proper applications for both. In the sense of full disclosure, being over 3/4 of a Century old, I had no idea Wagos existed until watching your channel. Anything that decreases the degree of difficulty is most definitely appreciated (especially as I keep living a lot longer than I ever thought I would. I don't know about All Y'All, but considering all the crazy stuff I did when I was younger, I was in shock when I reached 30!!! Yes, levity intended.). Another Great Video Stud Pack!!! Thank you again and please keep them coming!!!
Hey Guy I just would like to take the time to thank you guys for starting this. I stumbled on this channel When I was visiting Laplace Louisiana. While I was there my uncle asked me to help him do some dry wall work... something that I have never done before. So I searched on UA-cam and you guy made me look like a pro... I am grateful that your dad is Sharing his tips and tricks, his knowledge not only to you but to the world. My father passed away when I was really young, I was 5 years at the time so I really didn't have anyone to teach me the man skills that your father is sharing on UA-cam I really do appreciate that your dad decided to share. Thanks once again.
This video saved me on my first vanity light switch out! When I removed old light, discovered no electrical box and stud right in middle of the hole that I enlarged from existing drywall cutout. The shallow pancake box is EXACTLY what it needed - brought it up to code in Chicago and secure mount for the new light. Thank you!!
I just love watching you guys. Congrats on the house purchase looking forward to upcoming progress.. The ease you speak with is refreshing. Your knowledge is great but as you say always willing to learn. Jordan is irreplaceable on the production. keep up the great work and episodes
Hey Paul. Just a thought on the vanity mirror placement. Our current home already had a similar but unlit/unpowered one in our primary bath. As it was originally mounted for someone taller than my wife, I faced the issue of having to remount it in a lower location with all of the drilling and drywall patching issues included... that is until I realized I could simply unassemble the parts where the mirror itself attached to the arm, flip it 180 degrees in what is technically the "upside-down" position, and then reassemble it to the wall arm. This then made it the perfect height for my wife to use. All without touching the arm mount OR the wall. Phew. I know it's too late in your application but something to consider if it comes up in future projects.
I appreciate you showing the different products, and procedures to adapt to the circumstance at hand. One tool I need is a battery operated fan, to take into attics. I about got heat exhaustion last week I was in one attic so long, installed 4 bath exhuast fans, original fans were the simple 8x8, news one 10.50x9.75. And, old ones were on slider joist hangers in middle, new ones had housing brackets. Made frames from joist to position for each one. Can't wait to see you get started on Jordan's house.
That is a great comment as well as suggestion about a battery operated fan for attics!!! Thank you. (I'm sorry you suffered heat exhaustion to provide it as a caution for the rest of us.)
I'm an AC guy in AZ. A fan is a must, but remember, to fave a face mask on when you enter an attic with any exposed insulation. Also never go from hot to cold, you can shock your body and get incredibly sick. Lastly never ever work alone in a environment that can kill you. Work with someone who you trust and knows you well.
I've been binge watching your videos lately. I live in Europe, so code and how houses are built in general is totally different here, but it's still very inspiring and learning me some tips and tricks. Nice to see you're starting to use Wago connectors instead of defaulting to wire nuts. Over here wire nuts are rare to see, mostly in older electrical systems, and I think they aren't even allowed anymore, it's all Wago for like the past 2+ decades, the push-in types without the handles. The Wago 222 didn't seem to be popular because it's so bulky, but ever since the 221 came out it became the default and they are being used over the push-in types even in places nobody expects to service for years/decades. It's all about making life easier for the next person who needs to change or fault-find things.
I love the on screen chemistry these guys have. I've seen lots of videos from various companies, but Stud pack, are like the Hollywood A listers.... Great video work and great on screen presence guys. love it.
HAPPY FATHER'S DAY! I am so glad I stumbled upon your videos. They are a pleasure to watch! Love the knowledge and just whole personality and father-son interactions. LIKED AND SUBSCRIBED!
Paul you're one hell of a knowledgeable man. I've been doing this kind of stuff for about 15 years. One can never learn too much. But I pick up on your tips and tricks often, Thank you Stud Pack
Just came here to say that if you ever encounter Brown Blue and Yellow cables it should always be Brown = Live, Blue = Neutral, and Yellow/green = ProtectionEarth. It's standard wiring used in germany (probably in other EU countries as well), considering the mirror has a " CE " (conformité européenne, manufactured to conform to norms and regulations within the European Union) sign on it and the min. max. temperature in Celsius it's just a lamp produced in europe or for the european market. Also really hyped to see you guys getting started on the new house soon. It's really fascinating how you guys overseas do stuff, it's so similar yet so different at the same time. I'm just being done with a 2 year complete renovation of my now home, doing most of the stuff on my own (not the electrics though haha) - I'm a HVAC/plumber guy, I know my limits. It was a great and fun time but I'm so glad I'm done now.
CE is "conformité Europeenne", but C E is "China Export" and is a way for non confirming products to fool you. The only difference in the logo, i believe, is the larger space between C & E letters.
Been using Wago's for over a year and a half. I love them. Awesome video, awesome job as always 👊 P.S. I wish they would do phillips or robertson cover plate screws. I absolutely hate slotted screws.
Man, I love your videos. I've watched every single one about 3 times already. Got so excited when I saw the last 2 episodes. Congrats Jordan on the house my man! Can't wait for that series! I'm an electrician so I'm glad you guys went over the different obstacles and solutions for fixture installs and little tricks for wall fishing! Keep up the great work dudes, looking forward to more of your content!
Great Job as always, fellas! Tell Liz she did a fantastic job on the design of that home. I'm sure the HO will love it! It never fails at trimout... gotta hit the attic! Loving that remodel pancake box, way cool! I'm also looking forward to making a bunch of trips to houston for cabinets and other stuff, too, on Jordan's new place! It's going to be a blast!
Excellent work gentlemen. I recently added a new 20 amp line to my upstairs bathrooms This damn place had all the lights from bathroom, and bath receptacles and bedroom lights on one 15 amp line. Took the new 20 amp line and added GFCI and mirrors the same exact way. thanks for all the great videos
Hey guys love how you are passing your knowledge On to others,like for instance I'ma get some wagos and try them out they look so simple and way easier to use than standard wire nuts.plus you don't have to worry about your wires coming loose while you are tucking them in to the box.GOD BLESS YOU GUYS
Tip: After you've pre-bent the wires to create memory and have drove the device screws half way in, instead of relying on the device screws to draw the device the rest of the way, use your driver and press the yoke strap between the screw head and the plastic of the devise to collapse the wires within. This alleviates the stress on the screw threads and helps prevent distorting the yoke strap. Then, continue tightening the screws.
Fish sticks are amazing, I think a good tip would be to invest in not just mid-flex rods but high flex rods as well, they're more flexible and would have had a better shot of sliding on the roofing from below. Another suggestion would be to grab Klein's Fish Rod Attachment Set, it includes a chain and magnet. That could've helped you guys when Paul pushed a rod from above and Jordan was trying to grab it with his hand through the 4" hole, instead, Paul could've attached the chain to the end of the rod and move it around until it fell through the hole you guys made, or Jordan could've attached the magnet to the end of another rod and poked it through until it grabbed the chain and pulled it back.
A while back Jordan made a comment in one of the videos that you fellers should buy a house to remodel. He was quite insistent that y’all could “go crazy” on the renovation/remodel. And from that moment I have been anxiously waiting for the official Stud Pack House build announcement. I was intensely happy to see that announcement in your last video!! Thank you so much for all of your hard work!
Love your videos, men! That roof leak you found sure looks familiar. Mine looked that way before I neglected it for years. Now it's a big, soft black area between the rafters. A large plastic bin has kept the insulation dry and the kitchen ceiling from dripping. I'd like to see your fix of the leaking roof.
You might consider leaving the oh so very hot south during summer and work on projects in the pacific northwest. Jordon could buy a second house in Oregon or Washington. Today in Eugene, Oregon, we didn't even reach 70. I think I'll go into the attic where it is still comfy and get some work done.
When doing finish electrical I use a 4v electric screwdriver. It has just enough power to drive those annoying long screws, but not enough to damage anything. Got a Skil brand electric driver years ago and it works great!
Looking good Paul. The wire fishing was tricky, good work on making that happen, especially with the box in the wall! I've have torn that sucker out and put in an old work box 'cus I'm lazy like that. :-) Boy I hate working with 12 AWG wire, the house I'm working on how has it all over, very tough on the fingers. I'm guessing they used it to allow the use of high amperage blow dryers? I'm also glad to see you working with old, short wires. BTDT. Good video, excellent quality and as usual nicely edited.
I find power screwdrivers to be a comfortable middle ground between using a drill/impact or a manual screwdriver for electrical boxes. They turn MUCH slower than a drill/impact, and with far less torque, so have relatively little risk of stripping out the threading in the box, but are also MUCH faster than using a hand screwdriver. I still start the screws by hand (using the "manual" setting on my power screwdriver) to avoid cross threading though!
Paul, when mounting the vanity light, the small stranded bare copper ground conductor connected to the light fixture should be wrapped around the green ground screw on the mounting plate. Remove the 12 gauge copper ground first. Connect the fixture ground wire to the green ground screw about 7-8 inches down from the end of the wire. This provides two things, first it helps hold the fixture from falling out of your hands while connecting wires. Second, it bonds the fixture to the mounting plate. Next, connect the loose end of the fixture ground to the 12 gauge bare ground and you have a completed ground connection. Finish up with neutral and hot wires and you are done. This is standard wiring methods I used for 40 + years as a sparky in Philly. Hope it helps.
With the exception of Commercial work, 14 gauge is suitable for residential lighting circuits-it’s easier to work with-even for the heated ceiling fan. Typically 2 circuits for a bathroom: 14 gauge for lighting, and 12-gauge for GFCI’s. Also tempered glass is weakest on edge. Looking forward to the new house project!
Did that exact install on a make up mirror. It felt weird connecting #12 to those teeny tiny probably #18 or #20 wire in that light. Thank god for wago levernuts. Been using the 7 years now. 👍
Yep HVAC work in the attic in LA or FL during the summer can be deadly. That heat will creep up on you. Be careful. Always take cold water with you, it can be a life saver. If you plan on being in there for a while, Take one of the supply ducts off, if it is flex and point it at your work area.
For electrical devices I like to use a drill to get the screws most of the way into the box, then finish off with a hand driver to dial in the final tightness.
The make up light install ….awesome. Could you give the name and model of light as the one I’ve installed was battery operated and would love to do a hardwired type. Thanks for all the electrical tips! Keep making great quality videos!!
My attic just has a small hole that you lift the board up and climb up through it. When you do the framing on. Jordan's house and do a framing video for a drop down attic stair?
A little electrician tip turn the tabs both sides slightly on the receptacle yokes top and bottom it will press into drywall first and the screws are a second point of holding the receptacle. This tends to secure the receptacle even more firmly to the box than just using the screws.
Nicely done, and totally agree about having conditioned “attics” down here in the south: imo, should be code b/c it’s unbearable up in there and unsafe during hot summers (spring and fall too) to be up there long periods. Also know some companies that if hotter than 100°F outside and king a service call for hvac, or anything else that requires going up in “attic crawl space” in south; for safety of person(s), they WILL NOT do it until temps are lower. What this means is: might be waiting a week or months or work to be done, or paying a lot of money or labor for a repair/etc….. (if emergency they’ll do a temp “fix”, but those don’t always last, imo); or they will charge extra for going up when hotter outside (when calling one of first questions asked is location of “thing being worked on” and if “in a conditioned or unconditioned” attic crawl space). That why I’m liking the new building techniques of conditioned and room to walk in “attic” areas…..makes it nice and “willing” to go up there to do work😉 Cheers Guys✌🏻
Hey paul! Love all your videos! Just wanted to give you an edit, 12/2 is actually 12 gauge. Not 20 gauge. It is for 20 amps though! I'm an electrician which is why I know. Keep being an amazing team with Jordan making awesome videos!
Thanks for the video. I am wiring my bathroom right now. I am doing 1 20 amp circuit for the whole bathroom. I plan on feeding power to everything off of one gfci plug. Should I use a 15amp or 20 amp gfci? Any benefit to using the 20 over the 15?
Milwaukee makes a NON impact m12 for machine screws and small drilling. 1/4" fuel. Part number is 2402-20. Love the thing for doing all my LV / server stuff. Its basically the same as the keyless chuck version, but i like the quick disconnect hex.
Since you do so much of your own electrical, you might want to add a torque screwdriver to your electrical bag of tools. NEC2020 requires most connections to meet torque specific standards. Too little is just a bad as over tightening.
I don't remember yall showing the wiring of a triple stack switch I would love to see that and also, ive never seen that type of anchor you used on the mirror before.
Those anchors are amazing. I used them to bolt my gun safe to the wall with thick brackets. Apartment, couldn't drill into the foundation covered in tile. 🤷🏻♂️ I can patch 12 holes though. They hold a large amount of weight per anchor. Very easy to install, as you see. 😎 I vaguely remember Project Farm having success with them. 🤔
I've done that. It's sadly necessary evil. I don't like the way it looks nor the additional connection that can add resistance or voltage drop, but what can you do? 🤷🏻♂️
On the Heat, Vent, Light, what wire did you send up to the fixture? 12-2, 12-3, or 12-4? If I'm not mistaken it would need 3 hots and a neutral, correct? So it would need 12-4 wouldn't it? Thanks for making such awesome and great videos!
Love it! Only concern is the GFCI, big sticker on the side of it says specifically NOT for wet or damp locations lol. Pretty sure a bathroom above a sink counts as damp!
Bathrooms are considered “dry” locations, if a fixture were to be installed above a shower then that would need to be “damp” rated or if subjected to splashing water then “wet” rated.
@@JSH1 depends on what year code they're on. I'm not an electrician either lol, but if it's two feet from the sink faucet that's damp. Looks like it might be further here but I've had outlets rot out from being above a sink counter after just a few years.
@@robertroy8803 I completely understand your thinking but if this was truly considered a damp location by any regulation then NEC 406.9 (A) requires receptacles installed in damp locations to have an enclosure for the receptacle that is weatherproof. I’ve yet to see any weatherproof cover over any bathroom receptacle…anywhere before.
Two things paul. You cant use 12/2 in a pancake box due to box fill. Also the mirror light combo needs a box. You cant just drill a hole and run the wire through like that. A round old work would have been better and safer.
I saw it as just reusing the mirror housing as the junction box (as it already is one). That being said, it's probably not UL listed for use in that way and likely not up to local EC
Nice job as usual, Stud Pack !Probably could've just pushed the 12-2 by itself from down stairs through the recessed hole and towards Paul in the attic instead of trying to use the rod. Usually if it isn't more than 10 feet away I don't bother with using a rod. You also could've put a j-box for the lighted mirror just to be safe with the connections not being near the drywall behind it. I'd recommend to use a 12V screw gun for receptacles and switches and set the torque accordingly so it doesn't over tighten. A lot faster than using a screwdriver and enough control to not damage anything. Just my 2 cents but I am in the electrical field so that is my area of expertise. You guys are definitely a lot more handy than I am when it comes to all the other stuff. Lol
@@StudPack Yeah those rods are super handy and you can find them in different levels of rigidness. As far as the no j-box it isn't a major deal but if there was some sort of wiring fault it would be best to be contained inside the box and not be exposed to the wall. On some fixtures the back plate is listed to house the wires but it will usually have a knockout, like the 4 ft and 8 ft fluorescent shop lights for instance (as you probably know). You're welcome and keep up the awesome work.
Paul what type of wall anchor did you use on the light fixture above the vanity, I would really like to give them a try they see to be quick and easy peasy
The light fixture over the vanity was attached to an Arlington FSC405R pancake box link: amzn.to/3TljcdF It comes with integral clips that capture the drywall
At 26:07 - I assume the original custom vanity spanned the full width, but when replacing with a prefab vanity it's typical to have a gap on the left and right because one is forced to pick from the fixed prefab widths. Are there any tips or rules on how to handle the gap between the side of the vanity and side wall or do potential home buyers or renters not notice the empty gaps?
@@empressche333 - that's in interesting observation. Here in the SF Bay area "midcentury modern" is what buyers desire, so flippers really want to buy older homes, with old tile countertops, stinky carpet, and popcorn ceilings, and freshen them up with quartz countertops, lots of LED canless ceiling lights, stainless steel appliances, and the cool and modern LED bathroom mirrors (the primary mirror, not the little makeup mirror featured in this video). I'll confirm that freestanding vanities is really more modern, because if you're right then that's 100% the way to go.
Paul you should check out powered screwdrivers for screwing on switch covers/plugs/receptacles. Can be had for @ $20 and they’re such a time saver! And low torque so you can’t over torque or break anything. Recently bought one by “Skil” 4V usb rechargeable. SD561204 part number. Highly recommend
Great content again!! I have a comment though as always... Maybe I'll get another heart LOL. ;) At 13:50 just wondering, you mentioned that you can screw it to the directly to the stud. Your pancake box has a few holes as shown in video. I was told that you shouldn't drill / screw through a box that has no existing holes per code! I was taught that if you have a box that doesn't have existing holes, DO NOT drill a new hole in it. Never asked why. Is it true? What's your thoughts?
There is a easy way to strip Romex simply mark strip end using a pocket knife lightly cut a x with your knife the pull jacket off. I done uncountable amount of romex make-up 35 Years ago. I do enjoy your quality workvideos .
@Studpack you should always ground last! [Working live circuits ] connect nuetrals first then (unhot)black aand then (hot) black, lastly ground . Reason : you grounded the device first so now when you touch the metal in one hand and then the other hand holding the black . Youll get shocked if they touch anything metal on the device that device . Say you hit the clamping plate because its a clamp type . ->shock When you ground last the decice isnt grounded until you connect the ground . Thus eliminating the shocking because their is a current path .with the nuetral if connected already
@@JT_70 That might be true, but it isn't a reason. I work on lots of stuff live, but only because I'm lazy. There are very few reasons to not turn it off.
Hey Paul, here's a trick for ya ... When you're putting blank covers on boxes in the attic or anywhere else, cut the screws shorter. That way you don't give yourself tendonitis lol
Most manual Romex wire strippers have screw/bolt cutters built in for doing that right quick in a jiffy. 😎 No need for a Dremel or hack saw or angle grinder etc.
Hey guys first off great video, really enjoy your content.whats the name of the magnets you use to find the studs in the wall I'm thinking about getting one and trying it out?GOD BLESS YOU GUYS AND YOUR FAMILY'S.
It’s 5am and I’ve finally can say I’ve watched 12 hours of your channel. It’s so darn easy to watch. I feel I’ve amassed a huge library of information. Thank you guys!!
Thx JDYNL!! Now go get some sleep 😴 💤👊
Not to be cheesy, but your videos inspire me to get to work the next day. I'm a handyman (retired band director), and I love what I do now, but it's even more exciting after viewing your videos. And your relationship with your son (at least on video) is second to none. Keep up the awesome work you guys. Aloha from Hawaii!!
It's nice to know I'm not the only person that lines up the slots in the screws!! I've been more than convinced, I need to start using Wagos instead of restricting (and fighting) myself the way I have been with wire nuts! There are proper applications for both. In the sense of full disclosure, being over 3/4 of a Century old, I had no idea Wagos existed until watching your channel. Anything that decreases the degree of difficulty is most definitely appreciated (especially as I keep living a lot longer than I ever thought I would. I don't know about All Y'All, but considering all the crazy stuff I did when I was younger, I was in shock when I reached 30!!! Yes, levity intended.). Another Great Video Stud Pack!!! Thank you again and please keep them coming!!!
You dont make things look easy but the simple explanation and encouragement sure gives a guy some confidence to tackle these big projects!
Hey Guy I just would like to take the time to thank you guys for starting this.
I stumbled on this channel When I was visiting Laplace Louisiana. While I was there my uncle asked me to help him do some dry wall work... something that I have never done before. So I searched on UA-cam and you guy made me look like a pro...
I am grateful that your dad is Sharing his tips and tricks, his knowledge not only to you but to the world. My father passed away when I was really young, I was 5 years at the time so I really didn't have anyone to teach me the man skills that your father is sharing on UA-cam I really do appreciate that your dad decided to share.
Thanks once again.
Really appreciate the comment Lex 👍 So glad you found us and that our video helped you out 👊
This video saved me on my first vanity light switch out! When I removed old light, discovered no electrical box and stud right in middle of the hole that I enlarged from existing drywall cutout. The shallow pancake box is EXACTLY what it needed - brought it up to code in Chicago and secure mount for the new light. Thank you!!
I just love watching you guys. Congrats on the house purchase looking forward to upcoming progress.. The ease you speak with is refreshing. Your knowledge is great but as you say always willing to learn. Jordan is irreplaceable on the production. keep up the great work and episodes
my absolute favorite is when the vent pipe is centered to where you want to put your light.
Hey Paul. Just a thought on the vanity mirror placement. Our current home already had a similar but unlit/unpowered one in our primary bath. As it was originally mounted for someone taller than my wife, I faced the issue of having to remount it in a lower location with all of the drilling and drywall patching issues included... that is until I realized I could simply unassemble the parts where the mirror itself attached to the arm, flip it 180 degrees in what is technically the "upside-down" position, and then reassemble it to the wall arm. This then made it the perfect height for my wife to use. All without touching the arm mount OR the wall. Phew. I know it's too late in your application but something to consider if it comes up in future projects.
21:24 That is a cool dry-wall anchor!
I just hardwired this mirror in my wife's bathroom. It came out great thanks to you guys.... awesome videos.
I love watching and learning from you guys. It reminds me of helping my dad and I miss him. Ya'll are blessed more than you know.
My Dad found this cool flexible bowl that goes on the drill to catch the drywall dust when doing overhead drilling. Not a gimmick, worked perfectly.
I appreciate you showing the different products, and procedures to adapt to the circumstance at hand. One tool I need is a battery operated fan, to take into attics. I about got heat exhaustion last week I was in one attic so long, installed 4 bath exhuast fans, original fans were the simple 8x8, news one 10.50x9.75. And, old ones were on slider joist hangers in middle, new ones had housing brackets. Made frames from joist to position for each one. Can't wait to see you get started on Jordan's house.
That is a great comment as well as suggestion about a battery operated fan for attics!!! Thank you. (I'm sorry you suffered heat exhaustion to provide it as a caution for the rest of us.)
I'm an AC guy in AZ. A fan is a must, but remember, to fave a face mask on when you enter an attic with any exposed insulation. Also never go from hot to cold, you can shock your body and get incredibly sick. Lastly never ever work alone in a environment that can kill you. Work with someone who you trust and knows you well.
@@ptso7580 All excellent advice P Tso.
I've been binge watching your videos lately. I live in Europe, so code and how houses are built in general is totally different here, but it's still very inspiring and learning me some tips and tricks. Nice to see you're starting to use Wago connectors instead of defaulting to wire nuts. Over here wire nuts are rare to see, mostly in older electrical systems, and I think they aren't even allowed anymore, it's all Wago for like the past 2+ decades, the push-in types without the handles. The Wago 222 didn't seem to be popular because it's so bulky, but ever since the 221 came out it became the default and they are being used over the push-in types even in places nobody expects to service for years/decades. It's all about making life easier for the next person who needs to change or fault-find things.
I’m excited for Jordan’s new old house!!! You guys have some of the best videos on UA-cam!
I agree great channel
I am so glad youre using Wagos in the USA!
I love the on screen chemistry these guys have. I've seen lots of videos from various companies, but Stud pack, are like the Hollywood A listers.... Great video work and great on screen presence guys. love it.
Discovered Wagos on another video just in time for re lighting my garage. I’ll never go back.
Really enjoy yiur videos!
Yay to the Wago’s! My next must have at the home center! Congrats Jordan on the house, I’m sure you are excited to get that one fixed up real nice!
HAPPY FATHER'S DAY! I am so glad I stumbled upon your videos. They are a pleasure to watch! Love the knowledge and just whole personality and father-son interactions. LIKED AND SUBSCRIBED!
Paul you're one hell of a knowledgeable man. I've been doing this kind of stuff for about 15 years. One can never learn too much. But I pick up on your tips and tricks often, Thank you Stud Pack
Thx Ethan 👍👊
Just came here to say that if you ever encounter Brown Blue and Yellow cables it should always be Brown = Live, Blue = Neutral, and Yellow/green = ProtectionEarth. It's standard wiring used in germany (probably in other EU countries as well), considering the mirror has a " CE " (conformité européenne, manufactured to conform to norms and regulations within the European Union) sign on it and the min. max. temperature in Celsius it's just a lamp produced in europe or for the european market.
Also really hyped to see you guys getting started on the new house soon. It's really fascinating how you guys overseas do stuff, it's so similar yet so different at the same time. I'm just being done with a 2 year complete renovation of my now home, doing most of the stuff on my own (not the electrics though haha) - I'm a HVAC/plumber guy, I know my limits. It was a great and fun time but I'm so glad I'm done now.
Great advice and comment. Thank you for the information.
CE is "conformité Europeenne", but C E is "China Export" and is a way for non confirming products to fool you. The only difference in the logo, i believe, is the larger space between C & E letters.
Been using Wago's for over a year and a half. I love them. Awesome video, awesome job as always 👊
P.S. I wish they would do phillips or robertson cover plate screws. I absolutely hate slotted screws.
Man, I love your videos. I've watched every single one about 3 times already. Got so excited when I saw the last 2 episodes. Congrats Jordan on the house my man! Can't wait for that series! I'm an electrician so I'm glad you guys went over the different obstacles and solutions for fixture installs and little tricks for wall fishing! Keep up the great work dudes, looking forward to more of your content!
Great Job as always, fellas! Tell Liz she did a fantastic job on the design of that home. I'm sure the HO will love it! It never fails at trimout... gotta hit the attic! Loving that remodel pancake box, way cool! I'm also looking forward to making a bunch of trips to houston for cabinets and other stuff, too, on Jordan's new place! It's going to be a blast!
The half-way mark trick is cool!
Excellent work gentlemen. I recently added a new 20 amp line to my upstairs bathrooms This damn place had all the lights from bathroom, and bath receptacles and bedroom lights on one 15 amp line. Took the new 20 amp line and added GFCI and mirrors the same exact way. thanks for all the great videos
Would love to see more footage of finished rooms... :) especially before and after. I always learn something useful from your enjoyable videos.
The best part about your videos is your love for each other. Priceless
Hey guys love how you are passing your knowledge On to others,like for instance I'ma get some wagos and try them out they look so simple and way easier to use than standard wire nuts.plus you don't have to worry about your wires coming loose while you are tucking them in to the box.GOD BLESS YOU GUYS
10:49 "get an easy W" sounds like you've picking some stuff up from your boy ! !
Tip: After you've pre-bent the wires to create memory and have drove the device screws half way in, instead of relying on the device screws to draw the device the rest of the way, use your driver and press the yoke strap between the screw head and the plastic of the devise to collapse the wires within. This alleviates the stress on the screw threads and helps prevent distorting the yoke strap. Then, continue tightening the screws.
Fish sticks are amazing, I think a good tip would be to invest in not just mid-flex rods but high flex rods as well, they're more flexible and would have had a better shot of sliding on the roofing from below.
Another suggestion would be to grab Klein's Fish Rod Attachment Set, it includes a chain and magnet. That could've helped you guys when Paul pushed a rod from above and Jordan was trying to grab it with his hand through the 4" hole, instead, Paul could've attached the chain to the end of the rod and move it around until it fell through the hole you guys made, or Jordan could've attached the magnet to the end of another rod and poked it through until it grabbed the chain and pulled it back.
A while back Jordan made a comment in one of the videos that you fellers should buy a house to remodel. He was quite insistent that y’all could “go crazy” on the renovation/remodel. And from that moment I have been anxiously waiting for the official Stud Pack House build announcement. I was intensely happy to see that announcement in your last video!!
Thank you so much for all of your hard work!
Love your videos, men! That roof leak you found sure looks familiar. Mine looked that way before I neglected it for years. Now it's a big, soft black area between the rafters. A large plastic bin has kept the insulation dry and the kitchen ceiling from dripping. I'd like to see your fix of the leaking roof.
7 deuce off-suit, lol love it. Great video guys. I always learn something new.
I'm well versed in residential eletrical but I like watching Paul and Jordan so much that I watched the video anyways. Love the channel guys.
Thx polygaryd 👊👍
Awesome video, good job guys. I love how you two don't cut corners and do the jobs properly.
You might consider leaving the oh so very hot south during summer and work on projects in the pacific northwest. Jordon could buy a second house in Oregon or Washington. Today in Eugene, Oregon, we didn't even reach 70. I think I'll go into the attic where it is still comfy and get some work done.
When doing finish electrical I use a 4v electric screwdriver. It has just enough power to drive those annoying long screws, but not enough to damage anything. Got a Skil brand electric driver years ago and it works great!
I have a great one from hammerhead and of course they don't exist anymore.
Bathroom turned out wonderful guys great work 👏 👍
Awesome guys! So looking forward to the new house remodel, congratulations!
I freakin’ love Wago 221’s.
Looking good Paul. The wire fishing was tricky, good work on making that happen, especially with the box in the wall! I've have torn that sucker out and put in an old work box 'cus I'm lazy like that. :-) Boy I hate working with 12 AWG wire, the house I'm working on how has it all over, very tough on the fingers. I'm guessing they used it to allow the use of high amperage blow dryers? I'm also glad to see you working with old, short wires. BTDT. Good video, excellent quality and as usual nicely edited.
I find power screwdrivers to be a comfortable middle ground between using a drill/impact or a manual screwdriver for electrical boxes. They turn MUCH slower than a drill/impact, and with far less torque, so have relatively little risk of stripping out the threading in the box, but are also MUCH faster than using a hand screwdriver. I still start the screws by hand (using the "manual" setting on my power screwdriver) to avoid cross threading though!
impact driver have that option hand tight
my yellow does i dont know about other brand
Paul, when mounting the vanity light, the small stranded bare copper ground conductor connected to the light fixture should be wrapped around the green ground screw on the mounting plate. Remove the 12 gauge copper ground first. Connect the fixture ground wire to the green ground screw about 7-8 inches down from the end of the wire. This provides two things, first it helps hold the fixture from falling out of your hands while connecting wires. Second, it bonds the fixture to the mounting plate. Next, connect the loose end of the fixture ground to the 12 gauge bare ground and you have a completed ground connection. Finish up with neutral and hot wires and you are done. This is standard wiring methods I used for 40 + years as a sparky in Philly. Hope it helps.
From Philly, too!
I always learn something. Retaining it is the problem!
Some of the BEST videos on you tube…….👍🏻
Excellent video! Thank you for making these tutorials--they are incredibly helpful!!!
I thought I was the only one who did that centering trick. It's so much faster and more accurate
I know it's a silly takeaway, but I like your specific plays on the video subject in regard to the Like button.
Need to make child size merchandise. My son loves to watch your videos. He is having a stud pack 5th birthday party this year.
With the exception of
Commercial work, 14 gauge is suitable for residential lighting circuits-it’s easier to work with-even for the heated ceiling fan. Typically 2 circuits for a bathroom: 14 gauge for lighting, and 12-gauge for GFCI’s. Also tempered glass is weakest on edge. Looking forward to the new house project!
Did that exact install on a make up mirror. It felt weird connecting #12 to those teeny tiny probably #18 or #20 wire in that light. Thank god for wago levernuts. Been using the 7 years now. 👍
Yep HVAC work in the attic in LA or FL during the summer can be deadly. That heat will creep up on you. Be careful. Always take cold water with you, it can be a life saver. If you plan on being in there for a while, Take one of the supply ducts off, if it is flex and point it at your work area.
Gotta luv them Wagos!
Good catch on the leaking roof. Keep the great videos coming!
For electrical devices I like to use a drill to get the screws most of the way into the box, then finish off with a hand driver to dial in the final tightness.
The make up light install ….awesome. Could you give the name and model of light as the one I’ve installed was battery operated and would love to do a hardwired type. Thanks for all the electrical tips! Keep making great quality videos!!
Looks awesome as always! Great work!
My attic just has a small hole that you lift the board up and climb up through it. When you do the framing on. Jordan's house and do a framing video for a drop down attic stair?
A little electrician tip turn the tabs both sides slightly on the receptacle yokes top and bottom it will press into drywall first and the screws are a second point of holding the receptacle. This tends to secure the receptacle even more firmly to the box than just using the screws.
Nicely done, and totally agree about having conditioned “attics” down here in the south: imo, should be code b/c it’s unbearable up in there and unsafe during hot summers (spring and fall too) to be up there long periods.
Also know some companies that if hotter than 100°F outside and king a service call for hvac, or anything else that requires going up in “attic crawl space” in south; for safety of person(s), they WILL NOT do it until temps are lower. What this means is: might be waiting a week or months or work to be done, or paying a lot of money or labor for a repair/etc….. (if emergency they’ll do a temp “fix”, but those don’t always last, imo); or they will charge extra for going up when hotter outside (when calling one of first questions asked is location of “thing being worked on” and if “in a conditioned or unconditioned” attic crawl space). That why I’m liking the new building techniques of conditioned and room to walk in “attic” areas…..makes it nice and “willing” to go up there to do work😉
Cheers Guys✌🏻
Fantastic as usual! Any thoughts on just using GFCI breakers rather than outlets?
Hey paul! Love all your videos! Just wanted to give you an edit, 12/2 is actually 12 gauge. Not 20 gauge. It is for 20 amps though! I'm an electrician which is why I know. Keep being an amazing team with Jordan making awesome videos!
00:12 “his brand new 100 year old house” 😂
Awesome! Another StudPack video!
Thanks for the video. I am wiring my bathroom right now. I am doing 1 20 amp circuit for the whole bathroom. I plan on feeding power to everything off of one gfci plug. Should I use a 15amp or 20 amp gfci? Any benefit to using the 20 over the 15?
High energy, guys!
oh Man .. I LOVE zip toggle bolts!
Milwaukee makes a NON impact m12 for machine screws and small drilling. 1/4" fuel. Part number is 2402-20. Love the thing for doing all my LV / server stuff. Its basically the same as the keyless chuck version, but i like the quick disconnect hex.
Can’t wait to see y’all rip apart Jordan’s new house! Keep the videos coming boys!
Jordy should DJ my wedding!!!
Great work again guys!
Since you do so much of your own electrical, you might want to add a torque screwdriver to your electrical bag of tools. NEC2020 requires most connections to meet torque specific standards. Too little is just a bad as over tightening.
I don't remember yall showing the wiring of a triple stack switch I would love to see that and also, ive never seen that type of anchor you used on the mirror before.
Those anchors are amazing. I used them to bolt my gun safe to the wall with thick brackets. Apartment, couldn't drill into the foundation covered in tile. 🤷🏻♂️ I can patch 12 holes though. They hold a large amount of weight per anchor. Very easy to install, as you see. 😎 I vaguely remember Project Farm having success with them. 🤔
Thanks for sharing the video!
Can you do a video on fishing wires? Would love to see some tips and tricks especially for getting wire into existing boxes.
With those short wires in the box you can add some wago's and extend the wires a little, fairly easy, and makes it much easier to hook up the outlet.
I've done that. It's sadly necessary evil. I don't like the way it looks nor the additional connection that can add resistance or voltage drop, but what can you do? 🤷🏻♂️
Love your channel!! What mics and camera do you use, and what programs do you use to edit your videos?
It's the little things like lighting that makes everything look finished
Woo hoo!! Fresh stud pack!!!
On the Heat, Vent, Light, what wire did you send up to the fixture? 12-2, 12-3, or 12-4? If I'm not mistaken it would need 3 hots and a neutral, correct? So it would need 12-4 wouldn't it?
Thanks for making such awesome and great videos!
Yes I used 12-4 👍
Love it! Only concern is the GFCI, big sticker on the side of it says specifically NOT for wet or damp locations lol. Pretty sure a bathroom above a sink counts as damp!
Thx Robert. Guess I grabbed the wrong one. Getting new ones now 😡
Bathrooms are considered “dry” locations, if a fixture were to be installed above a shower then that would need to be “damp” rated or if subjected to splashing water then “wet” rated.
@@JSH1 depends on what year code they're on. I'm not an electrician either lol, but if it's two feet from the sink faucet that's damp. Looks like it might be further here but I've had outlets rot out from being above a sink counter after just a few years.
@@robertroy8803 I completely understand your thinking but if this was truly considered a damp location by any regulation then NEC 406.9 (A) requires receptacles installed in damp locations to have an enclosure for the receptacle that is weatherproof. I’ve yet to see any weatherproof cover over any bathroom receptacle…anywhere before.
@@JSH1 😂😂 I can just see it! Those giant covered boxes in every bathroom across America... 🤣
Two things paul. You cant use 12/2 in a pancake box due to box fill. Also the mirror light combo needs a box. You cant just drill a hole and run the wire through like that. A round old work would have been better and safer.
Yeah, i was thinking WTF, no box for the mirror?
I saw it as just reusing the mirror housing as the junction box (as it already is one). That being said, it's probably not UL listed for use in that way and likely not up to local EC
Nice job as usual, Stud Pack !Probably could've just pushed the 12-2 by itself from down stairs through the recessed hole and towards Paul in the attic instead of trying to use the rod. Usually if it isn't more than 10 feet away I don't bother with using a rod. You also could've put a j-box for the lighted mirror just to be safe with the connections not being near the drywall behind it. I'd recommend to use a 12V screw gun for receptacles and switches and set the torque accordingly so it doesn't over tighten. A lot faster than using a screwdriver and enough control to not damage anything. Just my 2 cents but I am in the electrical field so that is my area of expertise. You guys are definitely a lot more handy than I am when it comes to all the other stuff. Lol
Thx Kris 👍 yeah but we like to show use of the rods 😎. JB at mirror noted thx 👊
@@StudPack Yeah those rods are super handy and you can find them in different levels of rigidness. As far as the no j-box it isn't a major deal but if there was some sort of wiring fault it would be best to be contained inside the box and not be exposed to the wall. On some fixtures the back plate is listed to house the wires but it will usually have a knockout, like the 4 ft and 8 ft fluorescent shop lights for instance (as you probably know). You're welcome and keep up the awesome work.
Paul what type of wall anchor did you use on the light fixture above the vanity, I would really like to give them a try they see to be quick and easy peasy
The light fixture over the vanity was attached to an Arlington FSC405R pancake box link: amzn.to/3TljcdF It comes with integral clips that capture the drywall
At 26:07 - I assume the original custom vanity spanned the full width, but when replacing with a prefab vanity it's typical to have a gap on the left and right because one is forced to pick from the fixed prefab widths. Are there any tips or rules on how to handle the gap between the side of the vanity and side wall or do potential home buyers or renters not notice the empty gaps?
Vanities are supposed to look like freestanding furniture nowadays, so having them be built wall-to-wall is dated and not particularly attractive.
@@empressche333 - that's in interesting observation. Here in the SF Bay area "midcentury modern" is what buyers desire, so flippers really want to buy older homes, with old tile countertops, stinky carpet, and popcorn ceilings, and freshen them up with quartz countertops, lots of LED canless ceiling lights, stainless steel appliances, and the cool and modern LED bathroom mirrors (the primary mirror, not the little makeup mirror featured in this video). I'll confirm that freestanding vanities is really more modern, because if you're right then that's 100% the way to go.
Paul you should check out powered screwdrivers for screwing on switch covers/plugs/receptacles. Can be had for @ $20 and they’re such a time saver! And low torque so you can’t over torque or break anything. Recently bought one by “Skil” 4V usb rechargeable. SD561204 part number. Highly recommend
Cool thx Tony 👊👍
WASTED! lol awesome. love you guys
I’m glad they showed that niche with a mega sized Philosophy bottle.
I had a 1 gallon water bottle full of Wire Nuts. They are all now in the Trash.
Lever connectors are the way to go now.
Great content again!! I have a comment though as always... Maybe I'll get another heart LOL. ;)
At 13:50 just wondering, you mentioned that you can screw it to the directly to the stud. Your pancake box has a few holes as shown in video. I was told that you shouldn't drill / screw through a box that has no existing holes per code! I was taught that if you have a box that doesn't have existing holes, DO NOT drill a new hole in it. Never asked why. Is it true? What's your thoughts?
There is a easy way to strip Romex simply mark strip end using a pocket knife lightly cut a x with your knife the pull jacket off. I done uncountable amount of romex make-up 35 Years ago. I do enjoy your quality workvideos .
@Studpack you should always ground last! [Working live circuits ] connect nuetrals first then (unhot)black aand then (hot) black, lastly ground .
Reason : you grounded the device first so now when you touch the metal in one hand and then the other hand holding the black . Youll get shocked if they touch anything metal on the device that device . Say you hit the clamping plate because its a clamp type . ->shock
When you ground last the decice isnt grounded until you connect the ground . Thus eliminating the shocking because their is a current path .with the nuetral if connected already
No reason to do it live.
@@edisont.picard4112 Most experienced electricians don’t kill the power.
@@JT_70 That might be true, but it isn't a reason. I work on lots of stuff live, but only because I'm lazy. There are very few reasons to not turn it off.
Awesome video and tutorial guys!
Hey Paul, here's a trick for ya ... When you're putting blank covers on boxes in the attic or anywhere else, cut the screws shorter. That way you don't give yourself tendonitis lol
Most manual Romex wire strippers have screw/bolt cutters built in for doing that right quick in a jiffy. 😎 No need for a Dremel or hack saw or angle grinder etc.
That's dedication. Still sporting those women glasses.
This was another great video. You put a lot into that bathroom. So are you guys moving from LA to TX?
Hey guys first off great video, really enjoy your content.whats the name of the magnets you use to find the studs in the wall I'm thinking about getting one and trying it out?GOD BLESS YOU GUYS AND YOUR FAMILY'S.
It’s from ez-level.com
@@StudPack thank you so much
Great work