Tip I learned...dampen a sponge, and wipe the tiles BEFORE grouting. It does two things,...it makes it easier to spread the grout so it doesn't dry as fast while you're spreading, AND it makes it WAY easier to clean off the tile...it basically almost eliminates the haze.
@@David34981 funny, I've been doing it that way for the last...ahhh...50 years. Especially on the 12x24" tile he's using. Now if you're talking the little 4x4" tiles, sure, you grout the whole tile...but smearing it all over the face of a 2 square foot tile is just wasting time...and time = money.
I came across your videos about a month ago and instantly clicked with your content. I am a born and raised tradesman. My dad taught me everything I know and built our house with his own hands when I was six, I was running around trying to help him with everything I could. That sparked a long relationship of us working together and me ending up taking over his business. I really appreciate your content it brings me back to those moments. You fill a spot in my heart. I recently took on a project of taking a house from framing to finished. I am doing everything myself. My father now has Alzheimer's and doesn't even know that I am following his every move he taught me. To top that off the builder I am able to do this for was a contact and friendship that my father had built. He even told me "keep this guy in your back pocket, he'll be a big part of your future." Your relationship is very much the same as my dad and me with all the nicknames and little quirky things you say when a jobs well done. Thanks for filling a spot in my life that I truly miss and honestly brings me to tears... Hold theses moments dearly Jordan and listen to every word your dad says. They are golden days and golden words of knowledge.
Hey guys just want to say as a retired self employed former toolmaker finish carpenter the value that your dad Paul gives to you Jordan is so admirable. My dad was a professeour but my grandad was a machinist who had a business during the Great Depression. Your dad is giving you something and I can see in the last videos thay shows your appreciation and love he has for you. Bravo and look forward toward your new build in Texas!
I agree he really loves his son like his son loves him. That's why the videos are so entertaining and full of positie energie. Those two make a really good team together.... And make beautiful things .. ( greetings from the middle of the netherlands)
Now the Community post y’all made a few weeks ago of the beach (and it not being a vacation) makes perfect sense. This Hawaiian pit stop on the garage build is a perfect way to keep your skills sharp while waiting for that lumber package. Paul - your leadership to these young men cannot be overstated. You lead an incredible and humble family. Kudos to you, sir! 👊🏼
I know they are more work with editing and stuff, but definitely like the longer videos more then the shorter ones!! Very educational. Helping me remodel my own bathroom.
Honestly these gentlemen seem like good people. So I don’t want to be rude. however they did a few things incorrectly. Like using backer boards to fill in the voids near the pan. Also drywall screws to fasten the boards to the floor.
@@StudPack I suppose I’m assuming. However the screws are black and have a Phillips head. they look like drywall screws. Backer board screws are usually dark green or a mate gray color, use a Star Drive tip and won’t rust. respectfully I disagree. backer board should never be installed on a shower floor as it will break down over time. Instead use deck mud to fill those voids, this method is also approved by the Schluter company. Backer board is not.
@@Toni_Snark deck mud is always in stock at all your local hardware stores. It’s a very common product. No matter your location. I’m very relaxed. I was just commenting on some issues I saw and didn’t want the original poster to make same mistakes on his or her shower renovation. As mentioned before I like these gentlemen. I’m not trying to be rude or anything like that. I was just trying help because I do this for a living.
Nice job guys, looking forward to seeing how you tackle that vanity. Two quick thoughts for you, instead of pouring water into the pan of the wet saw, sit your 5 gallon bucket next to the saw and drop the pump down in it. this way you are pulling clean water through the pump and it will last much longer. The second thing, and I know a lot of people think it's crazy, but when you are putting down your thin set keep your trowel lines straight. The reason for that is when you seat the tile it creates an air pocket and the straight trowel lines will let the air escape and give you much better transfer and adhesion. When you have some time take two pieces of glass and some thin set and try it both ways, one straight and one curved and you will be able to see the difference. I don't want to sound like a know it all because I'm far from it but there really is some validity to it. Thanks.
I think there was a collective ‘oh yeah’ around the world when that piece of tile fit in! Doing some re-modelling on my own at the moment. StudPack helps a tonne by showing the highs and lows, and making me feel like I’m doing this as part of a big team! Thanks guys!
My biggest takeaway from you folks, it’s okay to just be okay with obstacles and things not going as planned. The thing that slows me down the most is always trying to have everything perfect. That’s just not reality. You’ve demonstrated with the right attitude any problem can be solved even if unconventional (not perfect). Great channel!
A tip for future projects, if you ever run into the need for an air intake on the drain pipe: You mounted the intake vertically about 3-4 inches off the T-coupling, then drywalled over it. If that intake fails down the line (it IS a device susceptible to age), you have to open the wall to replace it. Instead of mounting it vertically - since the intake is below the counter ledge - cut the pipe just above the T-coupling, throw a 90 coupling on it and stub it out of the wall, just like the sink drain stub out. NOW you'll have the air intake outside of the finished wall INSIDE the vanity. So whenever it needs replacing, you just pop it off and swap it with a new one. You can still do this, if you go in through the kitchen side, do the stub out, then put the drywall back on for the refrigerator recess. Just something I always do when I work on projects. Special stuff like that, I always assume I'M the one who'll have to come out and fix or maintain something. So I set myself up for easier work down the line. And doing it now is minimal cost: a 90 coupling and a drywall patch. A second solution to this is to install a six-inch square access panel on the kitchen side, so you can just pull out the refrigerator and open the hatch. Either way will work, just better to do it now, so it's all set for the homeowner when you head home.
Vents should always be accessible. There is even a special decorative access box available to use on drywall. The access panel is a good idea if there isn't room under the cabinet. The vent can also be used as a "cleanout" access in case of a stubborn clog. (Note: "90's" are referred to as 'ells/elbows' and T's are 'sanitary, clean-out, and combo'. A coupling is a coupling.
Can't wait to see Jordan's garage construction start, but it's great to see a brief intermission project that's not full of delays and two-steps-back (aka rain). This bathroom is gonna look killer!
Check historical annual rainfall records by month for Houston. The period they have struggled through so far is typically the best part of the year - when the least rain falls. (Annual rainfall: December-April 85 mm/month, May 118 mm/month, June-October rising to 132 mm/month before slowing into the 'dry' season toward the end of the year.)
@@StudPack Paul - You guys erred greatly by pushing ahead with the garage concrete work before first creating a drainage system for the lot. You need to install a gridwork of direct burial drainpipe throughout the lot back in Houston. You can do this quickly and at relatively little expense using 4" diameter semi-flexible corrugated black drainpipe the kind with perforations along its length. Farmers use to drain wet spots in their fields. Your drain system will be installed about 3 feet underground (above the clay layer) based upon the soil report you cited. You will have 3-4 runs of the drainpipe (mains) that extend the entire length of the lot and are spaced out across the lot. You will connect between these mains with 4-6 runs (laterals) of the same type of drainpipe spaced out along the length of the lot. The drainage grid should have a continuous slope from the back of the lot to the street and a continuous cross-slope from one side of the lot to the side where your drain system connects to the municipal storm sewer. The drain opening you have pointed to in previous videos that is in the street beside the future driveway is important for surface water runoff, but that drain opening does nothing to address the subsurface water that has saturated your lot's soil. The drain system you need to construct will be 3 feet or so underground and will connect to an underground municipal storm drain line that will likely be 6 feet or more below the surface of the street. One of the drainpipe mains should have run directly under the garage concrete pad location. It would have accommodated a floor drain - the one you chose to omit for the garage floor - and that same drain line would have demonstrated its worth when the heavy rainfall filled the trenches you excavated for the garage concrete. The longer you ignore the need to properly drain the subsurface soil, the larger your problems are going to grow over time. The concrete pads you pour are effectively boats floating on wet soil beneath. Without proper drainage, the soil will become unstable and is likely to begin to fail in shear mode - meaning the foundation will tend to displace (slide away) from its original position and that will cause uneven settling. The process will be slow, but it will be sure as gravity propels it. Keep in mind that taller structures only make the condition worse.
@@jefferywright4204 that’s interesting and seems pretty insightful. I’d love to hear Jordan and Paul address the issue of subsurface drainage in a future video
I rarely comment on videos but I always watch yours. Always excited to see what you have in store for us. I also wanted to let you know that I love longer videos. Keep it up👊
Love the work guys. Big tip when grouting: always clean the sponge every time you wipe and only wipe off in one direction. When you do circular motion, grout from the sponge gets back on the tiles and makes the tile look like that (i.e. cloudy). You can get perfect looking tile/grout by only using a clean sponge and whipping in one direction.
This has got to be one of the most impressive remodel videos I’ve seen. No stack of pack outs loaded with high end tools. Just making it work with what you’ve got and doing a darn good job of it.
This is A great episode. Coach getting things DONE!!! No nonsense rain messing with him. He is at his best improvising with his superior skill set. Love it 🎉 !!!!
Excellent Project Paul! I've missed seeing these types of projects. Always nice seeing how these projects turn out. ! Enjoy the Sun after your hardworking days guys!
As expected that shower is stunning! I never would've thought you'd use an envelope cut with the oblong tiles. There's an art with this trade and you gentlemen have mastered it. Love the video ❤
9:35 is a perfect example of why I love this channel. I've said it before, I'll say it again, Paul has become an amazing presenter, not just compared to where this channel started, but in general. I'd put him up with the greats like Bob Vila (Only half kidding) I love moments like this where Paul just lays it out and I love how at the end @ 13:30 Jordan gives him props on a solid segment. Wanted to throw my own kudos in on that cause Paul absolutely nailed it like always! (Also, @ 7:15 I loved how Paul came in looking like what I imagine every construction worker on Kauai looked like before Jordan told him not to worry bout changing out of his leisure wear. Loving this Hawaiian adventure.)
Bob Villa never was that great. Bob couldn't do a tenth of what he talked about and This Old House was really just to showcase high dollar homes. There wasn't a lot of time spent on any one subject. So I'd say that Stud Pack is better than TOH.
it really is night and day from Paul early videos, i wonder if he took a class in presenting and public speaking, a lot more energy and fun, it reminds me of AthleanX Jeff's early days where he was reading cue cards to a more natural feeling dialogue;;
That shower floor looks great! Never noticed the grain until you mentioned it. And that bullnose turned out great! I would have made a cardboard template but I'm not a professional. (And when Rad said "totally" I couldn't help but hear "radical!" in my head)
I think if you bullnose/round both the outside corners of the vanity top, it would prevent a sharp edge to run into, even if it's 1" that would make it much softer if you bump it. I think it might looks cool to match the round edges of the beams.
42:30 what about cutting a small amount of the countertop at the corner at a 45 angle to avoid it sticking out by the door frame like that? I don’t think it would look bad.
I’m in the middle of remodeling my bathroom right this moment, in between 50 hour weeks as a substation electrician and father of 3! I’m exhausted! Buuuuuuut the stud pack videos are a good way to alleviate some of my stress with the bathroom project. They give me a little reassurance that I’m doing things the right way, especially Kerdi! Thanks guys! Good luck in Lonestar. I might be joining you soon. California is a mess. God bless you!
I would've enjoyed a longer video to explain the repositioning of those pipes. ❤The pride you have in your children just oooooze through your pores❤💗 Awesome job🔥
I really enjoy watching you all have fun. Not that the Texas house isn't fun, it has been tough. The bathroom is coming out amazing too. As someone who still gets scared to tear down drywall it is so inspiring to see what work you did in the vanity niche. Thank you so much for the videos and giving confidence!
I second Alconium's thoughts about your channel. Your creativity and can do attitude get me every time. One thing you've probably thought about, but should mention in the next video, is providing air inlet to the stud bay with the air admittance valve.
Just an FYI for you in the future. Glass can very easily break when hit by a very sharp object. That's why you can hit a window with a hammer and it won't break, but if you break the ceramic off a spark plug and throw a piece at the window, it'll break instantly. The corners on those chisels can be sharp.
I've had to trim the backs of vanities before. Four cuts with a simple circular saw takes care of most vanities, just make sure you dont buy one with drawers, or else you will be rebuilding them too edit: just noticed in the last second of the video that your vanity has a shelf. For those, I keep the shelf in place for my side cuts, and then remove the shelf and use the partial cut marks to trim the shelf fully with a circ/table saw
Thank you! Always a pleasure to see your style, texture of your voice and syntax. Such a delight how you transfer technology with such grace and smoothness. Enjoy your adventures!
Have you guys seen Tilecoach's videos showing Kerdi failures? He shows numerous failures of the bonding flange drains on older installations, and has done flood tests using Kerdi fleece with both unmodified thinset and allset. The Kerdi fleece with unmodified thinset always fails the tests, and you can see the water penetration of the thinset behind the fleece. Worth checking out if you plan to continue using Kerdi systems, I have personally switched to Laticrete Hydroban liquid membrane...
This is correct, also the troughs made by the trowel should ALWAYS run parallel so the air has a way out when setting your tile. The way it is done here does NOT allow the air to escape. Drop a coin on different parts of each tile after the job is done and you will hear where the air pockets are. Prone to cracking just by dropping anything solid on the completed job.
Recently found this channel. The transparency and the quality is fantastic. Best measure guy ever. Haha!! Your relationship with each other inspires me. Very well done sirs!!!!!
If there's an enclosed space inside the vanity, put the AAV in there so it can be replaced easily when it fails instead of leaving it buried in the wall.
Agreed. AAV not code to be in a sealed cavity without a louvered access. Terminate it under the vanity, ABOVE A THE WATERLINE of the drain so if things clog, you see the clog at the drain before it comes out the vent.
dang you all really do some awesome work, we spent so much money on remodeling our guest bathroom to make it larger, well the tile and tub work -- really has made a horrible outcome. I know the contractor who installed it back in 2010, i have told him many times how the condition is getting worser and worser, he even saw it and told me, "i will get this fixed asap--13 some years later, i remind him again, and he's like, what happened! the bottom of the tub has rust all on the bottom, i can feel water down there...the tile around the tub has gotten grout al cracked and almost gone...so when i do shower, i am sure water gets behind the tiles...and the wall on the opposite side of the faucets has rotted as well...luckily its not a load baring wall. We have no funds to even get it redone. Due to covid the nest egg has all gone -- paycheck by paycheck now. I am sure if the Stud Pack seen how this contractor did the job they be like, "woah this is the worse we seen...or atleast one of the worst!"
The right front corner of the vanity top forms a sharp 90-degree projection into the door opening. Cut this on an angle from the wall surface at the door casing and to the front edge of the vanity top. This will remove the sharp corner and at the same time create a more finished look.
Great video & teaching. Just a note of advice from a "tiler". Always dampen the subfloor before applying thinset. It removes any dust that has accumulated as well as keeps the thinset from drying out before the backerboard or membrane is applied.
I sure do wish I had seen this around 2010 when I tiled my floors at a place where I used to live. Then it would have helped me a lot in 2017 or 2018 when I tiled the tub surround. Being a rank novice I learned a whole lot from you all watching this without doing a project around the house. Truly masterful work done with a fun filled spirit. Thanks for sharing. If nothing else, This looks like it could almost bring a novice who has no experience whatsoever up to speed doing such a project. Great videography and clear demonstrations. I found this not only informative but entertaining, too! Kudos to all of you, and especially to dad!
Awesome work as always, but was it just a miss on the vanity? They make vanities only 15 or 16 inches deep. Definitely 18 inches deep is available. They would have probably fit into the existing area without all the remodel work.
Super excited for your continued success with the channel. It's been a blast and educational being subbed when you guys were just starting. Thanks sooo much for the glorious channel and it's a delight to see how much fun you are all having.
This was a lot of content, really appreciate it. I thought you were going to leave me hanging in a few spots, but was relieved when I saw how much time was still left. Keep up the good work!
Really creeping me out you guys are working without shoes!! Waiting to see the next scene of a shot in the ER due to a nail through your foot (i've done this on a job site, nail through my shoe, foot and out the top of my shoe), or a toe missing from a saw mishap.
Surprised you just didn't use some floating wood for the vanity. You could have cut it to size and had it fit perfect. Toss the vanity and get some nice baltic birch, or something stacked. Easy.
I watch your videos faithfully. I'm gonna start my family business. I made a ton of mistakes. I'm learned alot from your videos. My tile had got way more better
To prevent your chuck from lossening, when you tighen your chuck, turn it BACK like you are un-tightening it. You will hear a CLICK. The chuck is now LOCKED in place and will NOT loosen up on you!
@@MoneyManHolmes I don't watch any tik tards or any of those "hack" videos... I know this because i've worked in construction my entire life and have done this since I was a kid.
You mentioned that you had a reason why you ran the tile horizontally on the big wall, but I don't think you ever explained why. Did it have to do with the little shelf?
Just watched the entire video lol. I'm liking that envelope cut. Looks really cool. You guys should have a legit show. I think a lot of people would watch it.
Your thinset should ALWAYS be combed the same direction under each tile so when you set the tile all of the air can travel through the troughs that you made in order to escape and allow the tile to have the most contact with thinset and minimal air pockets. The way you have combed your thinset with intersecting channels does not allow the air to escape and therefore you do not achieve sufficient contact for you tile. This job would be rejected by ANY qualified inspector. Sorry fellas but I see lots of comments by people that have no idea that this is done incorrectly. Just drop a coin on the tiles after the job is finished and you will hear the difference in the tiles that are stuck properly and those which are not. MY EDIT type in incorrect tile setting and you will see "trowel and error" shows a clear piece of glass set the way you have set the tile and they show the way I am correctly pointing out. The man then smashes the tiles to show just how poorly the tiles are set by having intersecting channels like you have done here.
The envelope cut looks better when the cut goes from the corner of the shower to the corner of the shower drain! I am not a fan of pre-made sloped pans, and I understand why you used what you used and ended up with the X in that location. When pre made deck mud is not available, you can always buy type 1 Portland cement and sand to make your own!
Love the channel! Just missed y’all in Kauai, was there last weekend. Recognize the view from the Royal Sonesta! I used to live near your Texas build in Magnolia! I had a home built there in ’98. Your project bring back a lot of memories dealing with the Texas elements. Soon the rains will stop and it will be the heat that’s your enemy. Keep up the good work! Always informative as well as entertaining!!
I figured "most replayed" was the end of an ad... nope. It was something else. I think a lot of dudes probably paused there to run and grab another Pepsi.
I’ve run into the same vanity issue you are. In your situation idda taken a look at putting the vanity caddy corner to the pony wall. That would have given you another chance to strength at wall by having some 45 degree wall framing in the corner
Thanks, you guys are doing a great job keeping things interesting and educational. I also want to say a great job on your attitude and manners. There is a lot of stuff on the internet that starts off ok but the language goes vulgar and people start being rude etc...GOD Bless Ya'll !!! David
Gosh darn it, I thought 37+ minutes last video was awesome you really outdid yourself this time crossing the 45 minute mark. Yet still more to go, that is some amazing work you guys are doing more so when you consider you're basically using spit and paper as tools. Really looking forward to seeing how the vanity turns out. Keep it up guys two thumbs way up.
A little tip for the grouting. After your grout has dried. Place painters tape along the edges of the seams & hit it with rostellum, neverwet. You'll never have to worry about mildew... EVER ! Did it 5 years ago & still have not encountered mildew.
Paul: master of the crafty tricks! Great content guys, this has become one of the best channels to watch for good quality and instruction. Hawaii aint bad either!
Love the tips. I'm a tile salesman and one bit of advice is don't use red guard, the number of horror stories I heard are one too many. Latecrete and Mapei have cheaper options that are significantly better.
Tip I learned...dampen a sponge, and wipe the tiles BEFORE grouting. It does two things,...it makes it easier to spread the grout so it doesn't dry as fast while you're spreading, AND it makes it WAY easier to clean off the tile...it basically almost eliminates the haze.
Great tip! 😂
@@StudPack I thought it was a crazy idea...but dang if it didn't make my giant shower grouting job easier! 😁
I can't understand why he's grouting the whole face of the tile. You only grout the joints! Just creates tons more work...
@@chrisosti What? I'd like to see you grout the joints without getting any grout on the tiles. That's just impossible.
@@David34981 funny, I've been doing it that way for the last...ahhh...50 years. Especially on the 12x24" tile he's using. Now if you're talking the little 4x4" tiles, sure, you grout the whole tile...but smearing it all over the face of a 2 square foot tile is just wasting time...and time = money.
I came across your videos about a month ago and instantly clicked with your content. I am a born and raised tradesman. My dad taught me everything I know and built our house with his own hands when I was six, I was running around trying to help him with everything I could. That sparked a long relationship of us working together and me ending up taking over his business.
I really appreciate your content it brings me back to those moments. You fill a spot in my heart.
I recently took on a project of taking a house from framing to finished. I am doing everything myself. My father now has Alzheimer's and doesn't even know that I am following his every move he taught me. To top that off the builder I am able to do this for was a contact and friendship that my father had built. He even told me "keep this guy in your back pocket, he'll be a big part of your future."
Your relationship is very much the same as my dad and me with all the nicknames and little quirky things you say when a jobs well done.
Thanks for filling a spot in my life that I truly miss and honestly brings me to tears...
Hold theses moments dearly Jordan and listen to every word your dad says. They are golden days and golden words of knowledge.
Hey guys just want to say as a retired self employed former toolmaker finish carpenter the value that your dad Paul gives to you Jordan is so admirable.
My dad was a professeour but my grandad was a machinist who had a business during the Great Depression.
Your dad is giving you something and I can see in the last videos thay shows your appreciation and love he has for you.
Bravo and look forward toward your new build in Texas!
Much appreciated Frank!!
I agree he really loves his son like his son loves him. That's why the videos are so entertaining and full of positie energie. Those two make a really good team together.... And make beautiful things .. ( greetings from the middle of the netherlands)
Now the Community post y’all made a few weeks ago of the beach (and it not being a vacation) makes perfect sense. This Hawaiian pit stop on the garage build is a perfect way to keep your skills sharp while waiting for that lumber package. Paul - your leadership to these young men cannot be overstated. You lead an incredible and humble family. Kudos to you, sir! 👊🏼
I know they are more work with editing and stuff, but definitely like the longer videos more then the shorter ones!! Very educational. Helping me remodel my own bathroom.
Honestly these gentlemen seem like good people. So I don’t want to be rude. however they did a few things incorrectly. Like using backer boards to fill in the voids near the pan. Also drywall screws to fasten the boards to the floor.
@@isaaca665 we never used drywall screws to secure anything but drywall. And the backer is going to be just fine 👊🏼
@@StudPack I suppose I’m assuming. However the screws are black and have a Phillips head. they look like drywall screws. Backer board screws are usually dark green or a mate gray color, use a Star Drive tip and won’t rust. respectfully I disagree. backer board should never be installed on a shower floor as it will break down over time. Instead use deck mud to fill those voids, this method is also approved by the Schluter company. Backer board is not.
@@isaaca665 He clearly said they couldn’t get what they needed in that location. You work with what you can get. It’s not ideal, but it’s fine. Relax.
@@Toni_Snark deck mud is always in stock at all your local hardware stores. It’s a very common product. No matter your location. I’m very relaxed. I was just commenting on some issues I saw and didn’t want the original poster to make same mistakes on his or her shower renovation. As mentioned before I like these gentlemen. I’m not trying to be rude or anything like that. I was just trying help because I do this for a living.
Nice job guys, looking forward to seeing how you tackle that vanity. Two quick thoughts for you, instead of pouring water into the pan of the wet saw, sit your 5 gallon bucket next to the saw and drop the pump down in it. this way you are pulling clean water through the pump and it will last much longer. The second thing, and I know a lot of people think it's crazy, but when you are putting down your thin set keep your trowel lines straight. The reason for that is when you seat the tile it creates an air pocket and the straight trowel lines will let the air escape and give you much better transfer and adhesion. When you have some time take two pieces of glass and some thin set and try it both ways, one straight and one curved and you will be able to see the difference. I don't want to sound like a know it all because I'm far from it but there really is some validity to it. Thanks.
I think there was a collective ‘oh yeah’ around the world when that piece of tile fit in!
Doing some re-modelling on my own at the moment. StudPack helps a tonne by showing the highs and lows, and making me feel like I’m doing this as part of a big team! Thanks guys!
My biggest takeaway from you folks, it’s okay to just be okay with obstacles and things not going as planned. The thing that slows me down the most is always trying to have everything perfect. That’s just not reality. You’ve demonstrated with the right attitude any problem can be solved even if unconventional (not perfect). Great channel!
Same on trying to have everything perfect, god is it a time waster in a lot of situations lol
A tip for future projects, if you ever run into the need for an air intake on the drain pipe:
You mounted the intake vertically about 3-4 inches off the T-coupling, then drywalled over it.
If that intake fails down the line (it IS a device susceptible to age), you have to open the wall to replace it.
Instead of mounting it vertically - since the intake is below the counter ledge - cut the pipe just above the T-coupling, throw a 90 coupling on it and stub it out of the wall, just like the sink drain stub out. NOW you'll have the air intake outside of the finished wall INSIDE the vanity. So whenever it needs replacing, you just pop it off and swap it with a new one.
You can still do this, if you go in through the kitchen side, do the stub out, then put the drywall back on for the refrigerator recess.
Just something I always do when I work on projects. Special stuff like that, I always assume I'M the one who'll have to come out and fix or maintain something. So I set myself up for easier work down the line. And doing it now is minimal cost: a 90 coupling and a drywall patch.
A second solution to this is to install a six-inch square access panel on the kitchen side, so you can just pull out the refrigerator and open the hatch.
Either way will work, just better to do it now, so it's all set for the homeowner when you head home.
Excellent suggestion! I'll be using that one in the future.
Vents should always be accessible. There is even a special decorative access box available to use on drywall. The access panel is a good idea if there isn't room under the cabinet. The vent can also be used as a "cleanout" access in case of a stubborn clog. (Note: "90's" are referred to as 'ells/elbows' and T's are 'sanitary, clean-out, and combo'. A coupling is a coupling.
You beat me to it! Those Studer vents always enrage code inspectors when installed wrong.
Awesome doing a house now and my usage of this will help me later thank you 🙏
actually against code to bury pop valve in wall.
Can't wait to see Jordan's garage construction start, but it's great to see a brief intermission project that's not full of delays and two-steps-back (aka rain). This bathroom is gonna look killer!
Check historical annual rainfall records by month for Houston. The period they have struggled through so far is typically the best part of the year - when the least rain falls. (Annual rainfall: December-April 85 mm/month, May 118 mm/month, June-October rising to 132 mm/month before slowing into the 'dry' season toward the end of the year.)
@@jefferywright4204 Yeah....we thought we were going to be just fine.. 😓
@@StudPack Paul - You guys erred greatly by pushing ahead with the garage concrete work before first creating a drainage system for the lot.
You need to install a gridwork of direct burial drainpipe throughout the lot back in Houston. You can do this quickly and at relatively little expense using 4" diameter semi-flexible corrugated black drainpipe the kind with perforations along its length. Farmers use to drain wet spots in their fields.
Your drain system will be installed about 3 feet underground (above the clay layer) based upon the soil report you cited. You will have 3-4 runs of the drainpipe (mains) that extend the entire length of the lot and are spaced out across the lot. You will connect between these mains with 4-6 runs (laterals) of the same type of drainpipe spaced out along the length of the lot.
The drainage grid should have a continuous slope from the back of the lot to the street and a continuous cross-slope from one side of the lot to the side where your drain system connects to the municipal storm sewer.
The drain opening you have pointed to in previous videos that is in the street beside the future driveway is important for surface water runoff, but that drain opening does nothing to address the subsurface water that has saturated your lot's soil. The drain system you need to construct will be 3 feet or so underground and will connect to an underground municipal storm drain line that will likely be 6 feet or more below the surface of the street.
One of the drainpipe mains should have run directly under the garage concrete pad location. It would have accommodated a floor drain - the one you chose to omit for the garage floor - and that same drain line would have demonstrated its worth when the heavy rainfall filled the trenches you excavated for the garage concrete.
The longer you ignore the need to properly drain the subsurface soil, the larger your problems are going to grow over time. The concrete pads you pour are effectively boats floating on wet soil beneath.
Without proper drainage, the soil will become unstable and is likely to begin to fail in shear mode - meaning the foundation will tend to displace (slide away) from its original position and that will cause uneven settling. The process will be slow, but it will be sure as gravity propels it. Keep in mind that taller structures only make the condition worse.
@@jefferywright4204 that’s interesting and seems pretty insightful. I’d love to hear Jordan and Paul address the issue of subsurface drainage in a future video
I guess the way it’s going it’ll be 1 year before 4 walls will be done Lol 🤣😂 so you’ll have plenty time.
I rarely comment on videos but I always watch yours. Always excited to see what you have in store for us. I also wanted to let you know that I love longer videos. Keep it up👊
Love the work guys. Big tip when grouting: always clean the sponge every time you wipe and only wipe off in one direction. When you do circular motion, grout from the sponge gets back on the tiles and makes the tile look like that (i.e. cloudy). You can get perfect looking tile/grout by only using a clean sponge and whipping in one direction.
This has got to be one of the most impressive remodel videos I’ve seen.
No stack of pack outs loaded with high end tools. Just making it work with what you’ve got and doing a darn good job of it.
Keep up the good work and vids,it's tough to produce a good vid, very time consuming.
So true !
This is A great episode. Coach getting things DONE!!! No nonsense rain messing with him. He is at his best improvising with his superior skill set. Love it 🎉 !!!!
That tile cut with the notch and fitment was mint! 35:19
Excellent Project Paul! I've missed seeing these types of projects. Always nice seeing how these projects turn out. ! Enjoy the Sun after your hardworking days guys!
As expected that shower is stunning! I never would've thought you'd use an envelope cut with the oblong tiles. There's an art with this trade and you gentlemen have mastered it. Love the video ❤
9:35 is a perfect example of why I love this channel. I've said it before, I'll say it again, Paul has become an amazing presenter, not just compared to where this channel started, but in general. I'd put him up with the greats like Bob Vila (Only half kidding) I love moments like this where Paul just lays it out and I love how at the end @ 13:30 Jordan gives him props on a solid segment. Wanted to throw my own kudos in on that cause Paul absolutely nailed it like always! (Also, @ 7:15 I loved how Paul came in looking like what I imagine every construction worker on Kauai looked like before Jordan told him not to worry bout changing out of his leisure wear. Loving this Hawaiian adventure.)
Bob Villa never was that great. Bob couldn't do a tenth of what he talked about and This Old House was really just to showcase high dollar homes. There wasn't a lot of time spent on any one subject. So I'd say that Stud Pack is better than TOH.
Mike who? ;)
it really is night and day from Paul early videos, i wonder if he took a class in presenting and public speaking, a lot more energy and fun, it reminds me of AthleanX Jeff's early days where he was reading cue cards to a more natural feeling dialogue;;
He's got all the real world skill and none of the ego. Always willing to admit and correct mistakes. Makes it very easy to watch.
Cocaine Villa
That shower floor looks great! Never noticed the grain until you mentioned it. And that bullnose turned out great! I would have made a cardboard template but I'm not a professional. (And when Rad said "totally" I couldn't help but hear "radical!" in my head)
I think if you bullnose/round both the outside corners of the vanity top, it would prevent a sharp edge to run into, even if it's 1" that would make it much softer if you bump it. I think it might looks cool to match the round edges of the beams.
42:30 what about cutting a small amount of the countertop at the corner at a 45 angle to avoid it sticking out by the door frame like that? I don’t think it would look bad.
And if not, for less bruising or injury if someone bumps into it, round the corner off.
Don't remember which way the door swung, but maybe hang the door on that side of the door opening.
What about just move the whole door entrance
Just round the corner off.
I’m in the middle of remodeling my bathroom right this moment, in between 50 hour weeks as a substation electrician and father of 3! I’m exhausted! Buuuuuuut the stud pack videos are a good way to alleviate some of my stress with the bathroom project. They give me a little reassurance that I’m doing things the right way, especially Kerdi!
Thanks guys! Good luck in Lonestar. I might be joining you soon. California is a mess. God bless you!
"This glass block is pretty strong, so I'm not worried about breaking it."
Famous last words. :)
Didn't see any broken🤷♀️
@@NavigatingChaos: If I'd said that, I'd have angered the construction gods. Jordan must be on better terms with them. I know Paul is. :)
Yup - its strong, until its not! guess he's got the touch
I would've enjoyed a longer video to explain the repositioning of those pipes.
❤The pride you have in your children just oooooze through your pores❤💗 Awesome job🔥
I really enjoy watching you all have fun. Not that the Texas house isn't fun, it has been tough. The bathroom is coming out amazing too. As someone who still gets scared to tear down drywall it is so inspiring to see what work you did in the vanity niche. Thank you so much for the videos and giving confidence!
Man you guys are a class act love your channel. I like how you show the hard parts and not just the easy stuff. Thats what sets you apart.
I second Alconium's thoughts about your channel. Your creativity and can do attitude get me every time. One thing you've probably thought about, but should mention in the next video, is providing air inlet to the stud bay with the air admittance valve.
Just an FYI for you in the future. Glass can very easily break when hit by a very sharp object.
That's why you can hit a window with a hammer and it won't break, but if you break the ceramic off a spark plug and throw a piece at the window, it'll break instantly.
The corners on those chisels can be sharp.
I've had to trim the backs of vanities before. Four cuts with a simple circular saw takes care of most vanities, just make sure you dont buy one with drawers, or else you will be rebuilding them too
edit: just noticed in the last second of the video that your vanity has a shelf. For those, I keep the shelf in place for my side cuts, and then remove the shelf and use the partial cut marks to trim the shelf fully with a circ/table saw
Thank you! Always a pleasure to see your style, texture of your voice and syntax. Such a delight how you transfer technology with such grace and smoothness. Enjoy your adventures!
Have you guys seen Tilecoach's videos showing Kerdi failures? He shows numerous failures of the bonding flange drains on older installations, and has done flood tests using Kerdi fleece with both unmodified thinset and allset. The Kerdi fleece with unmodified thinset always fails the tests, and you can see the water penetration of the thinset behind the fleece. Worth checking out if you plan to continue using Kerdi systems, I have personally switched to Laticrete Hydroban liquid membrane...
This is correct, also the troughs made by the trowel should ALWAYS run parallel so the air has a way out when setting your tile. The way it is done here does NOT allow the air to escape. Drop a coin on different parts of each tile after the job is done and you will hear where the air pockets are. Prone to cracking just by dropping anything solid on the completed job.
Try Profilitec showertec boards they are polyethylene and /100% recyclable. Awesome.
Yeah okay bud 😂
Recently found this channel. The transparency and the quality is fantastic. Best measure guy ever. Haha!! Your relationship with each other inspires me. Very well done sirs!!!!!
It amazes me how neat and clean you guys are with your work. If I did that thinset I’d have it all over the walls and myself 😂
I love the attention to detail on the video production. The background music has a Hawaii/Beach vibe to it to match the location. Nice!
If there's an enclosed space inside the vanity, put the AAV in there so it can be replaced easily when it fails instead of leaving it buried in the wall.
Agreed. AAV not code to be in a sealed cavity without a louvered access.
Terminate it under the vanity, ABOVE A THE WATERLINE of the drain so if things clog, you see the clog at the drain before it comes out the vent.
@@larrys5733 Above the flood level of the sink into a laundry box behind the fridge.
I don't know how you have the energy to talk so much and still get so much work done. This is some of your best work ever.
The no shoes thing is crazy. F that would never accept that job. Even though it's family
Excellent teaching, every step of the way!
What you could do for the countertop is cut the corners at an angle on both sides, so that it's not a sharp corner. 41:35
dang you all really do some awesome work, we spent so much money on remodeling our guest bathroom to make it larger, well the tile and tub work -- really has made a horrible outcome. I know the contractor who installed it back in 2010, i have told him many times how the condition is getting worser and worser, he even saw it and told me, "i will get this fixed asap--13 some years later, i remind him again, and he's like, what happened! the bottom of the tub has rust all on the bottom, i can feel water down there...the tile around the tub has gotten grout al cracked and almost gone...so when i do shower, i am sure water gets behind the tiles...and the wall on the opposite side of the faucets has rotted as well...luckily its not a load baring wall.
We have no funds to even get it redone. Due to covid the nest egg has all gone -- paycheck by paycheck now.
I am sure if the Stud Pack seen how this contractor did the job they be like, "woah this is the worse we seen...or atleast one of the worst!"
Stud Pack Hawaii franchise is just as good as regular flavor Stud Pack. Keep up the great content boys.
Old school StudPack content! Love it!!
The right front corner of the vanity top forms a sharp 90-degree projection into the door opening. Cut this on an angle from the wall surface at the door casing and to the front edge of the vanity top. This will remove the sharp corner and at the same time create a more finished look.
Great video & teaching. Just a note of advice from a "tiler". Always dampen the subfloor before applying thinset. It removes any dust that has accumulated as well as keeps the thinset from drying out before the backerboard or membrane is applied.
You guys never cease to amaze me! Stellar content! Paul, you rule! The younger guys are pretty ok too.
I sure do wish I had seen this around 2010 when I tiled my floors at a place where I used to live. Then it would have helped me a lot in 2017 or 2018 when I tiled the tub surround. Being a rank novice I learned a whole lot from you all watching this without doing a project around the house. Truly masterful work done with a fun filled spirit. Thanks for sharing. If nothing else, This looks like it could almost bring a novice who has no experience whatsoever up to speed doing such a project. Great videography and clear demonstrations. I found this not only informative but entertaining, too! Kudos to all of you, and especially to dad!
Awesome work as always, but was it just a miss on the vanity? They make vanities only 15 or 16 inches deep. Definitely 18 inches deep is available. They would have probably fit into the existing area without all the remodel work.
They're also in Hawaii so availability may have been an issue.
Super excited for your continued success with the channel. It's been a blast and educational being subbed when you guys were just starting. Thanks sooo much for the glorious channel and it's a delight to see how much fun you are all having.
You should put an access door in for that in line vent valve. They fail on a regular basis and need to be replaced.
Yeah, I thought they'd just put the vent in the vanity space for access. I was surprised to see it covered up.
I am loving the longer videos! We just cannot get enough of your skills.
That was one beautiful tile cut around the beam. Masterful.
This was a lot of content, really appreciate it. I thought you were going to leave me hanging in a few spots, but was relieved when I saw how much time was still left. Keep up the good work!
Really creeping me out you guys are working without shoes!!
Waiting to see the next scene of a shot in the ER due to a nail through your foot (i've done this on a job site, nail through my shoe, foot and out the top of my shoe), or a toe missing from a saw mishap.
Fantastic job as always. Your friend is so lucky to have you remodeling their bathroom.
air admittance valve covered in the wall AND below the flood plain of the sink. I can't begin to describe how depressing that is to see. 🙁
Yeah they generally rock but that was not good.
I agree. Well at least there is video evidence that it is there so they know about where to cut to get to it.
Excellent approach to the challenges and installation progress team SP! Can’t wait to see you carry the baton to the finish line!
AWESOME job guys!
So sweet to see a father and son get along so well.
Surprised you just didn't use some floating wood for the vanity. You could have cut it to size and had it fit perfect. Toss the vanity and get some nice baltic birch, or something stacked. Easy.
I was thinking the same. It would fit the "Hawaiian island" look better too.
@@NavigatingChaos Yep, could find some nice Koa wood. Even could still put a shelf underneath for more storage.
You guys rock. Keep on keepin' on. Paz.
Impressive how Paul can adapt to the surprises behind the sheetrock. Remodeling at its finest!
Wow, that was an impressive tile job! Your talents are many and I look forward to seeing the rest of this job.
Didn't Schulter change it from unmodified to modified?
yep
Their instructions and FAQ call for unmodified.
@@ringtylerthey changed after several complaints of water wicking and leaking through it which only happens with unmodified
@@tullgutten I'm not disagreeing, just stating what they are still currently saying.
It’s under the pan where it should never see water, so it should be ok. I’m not sure what type they used on the waterproofing fabric and dam corners.
45 minutes of pure Studpackness! Glad to see you guys got some R&R in. Great project, you are good guys for doing that.
Wow, video says it was posted 30 seconds ago, and already has 4 views!
I watch your videos faithfully. I'm gonna start my family business. I made a ton of mistakes. I'm learned alot from your videos. My tile had got way more better
To prevent your chuck from lossening, when you tighen your chuck, turn it BACK like you are un-tightening it. You will hear a CLICK. The chuck is now LOCKED in place and will NOT loosen up on you!
Can you point to any user manual that says that?
That Is not true
It’s from the fake tiktok tool hack videos.
@@MoneyManHolmes I don't watch any tik tards or any of those "hack" videos... I know this because i've worked in construction my entire life and have done this since I was a kid.
@@joshuaricks7730 Try it... yes it is. I have done this for years. That's why when you buy a drill, it states, "locking chuck"
Liked the longer format! Good job so far, can't wait to see the finished product.
13:52 lol
I really enjoyed the longer format of the video guys!... it was nice to kick back and really settle into the details, can't wait for the next one!!
Stud pack!!!!!!!!
Garrett! 💪
You mentioned that you had a reason why you ran the tile horizontally on the big wall, but I don't think you ever explained why. Did it have to do with the little shelf?
Woot, woot 🎉
Woot woot! 😁
First time on the channel, immediate sub. Great explanations, great chemistry between dad and sons.
13:52 🤔
@stud pack , please review these fast forward frames. Some of them are inappropriate and some youtube creeps will look go frame by frame.
Wow just wow! That was a lot a lot! Literally the nicest bathroom in all of Hawaii should charge tickets for touring 😂 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Damn! I'm the fifht view. Never happened before haha 🎉
Thanks for being here Maxime!
Aloha! Welcome to the islands. Love your videos. Your channel is my go-to. Big help when doing DIY projects. Blessings!
Just watched the entire video lol. I'm liking that envelope cut. Looks really cool. You guys should have a legit show. I think a lot of people would watch it.
Your thinset should ALWAYS be combed the same direction under each tile so when you set the tile all of the air can travel through the troughs that you made in order to escape and allow the tile to have the most contact with thinset and minimal air pockets. The way you have combed your thinset with intersecting channels does not allow the air to escape and therefore you do not achieve sufficient contact for you tile. This job would be rejected by ANY qualified inspector. Sorry fellas but I see lots of comments by people that have no idea that this is done incorrectly. Just drop a coin on the tiles after the job is finished and you will hear the difference in the tiles that are stuck properly and those which are not. MY EDIT type in incorrect tile setting and you will see "trowel and error" shows a clear piece of glass set the way you have set the tile and they show the way I am correctly pointing out. The man then smashes the tiles to show just how poorly the tiles are set by having intersecting channels like you have done here.
Thanks for the tips on the speed square. That tile fit was awesome!
Per usual love the videos!! The recessed vanity is a brilliant idea, look forward to seeing how you finish it off.
The envelope cut looks better when the cut goes from the corner of the shower to the corner of the shower drain! I am not a fan of pre-made sloped pans, and I understand why you used what you used and ended up with the X in that location.
When pre made deck mud is not available, you can always buy type 1 Portland cement and sand to make your own!
ALOHA Stud Pack!! MagEx. Once again Paul, key takeaways and amazing teamwork. Have fun in Hawaii. Mahalo.
Love the channel! Just missed y’all in Kauai, was there last weekend. Recognize the view from the Royal Sonesta! I used to live near your Texas build in Magnolia! I had a home built there in ’98. Your project bring back a lot of memories dealing with the Texas elements. Soon the rains will stop and it will be the heat that’s your enemy. Keep up the good work! Always informative as well as entertaining!!
This guy sounds like a prosecutor in court trying to get the tile guy a guilty verdict!!🤣🤣
Great as usual. It’s awesome to see the work being done with minimal tools/ resources
I figured "most replayed" was the end of an ad... nope. It was something else. I think a lot of dudes probably paused there to run and grab another Pepsi.
Man , it's hard to stop watching these videos. Sooo enjoying them. 👍
Didn’t realize how ready I’ve been for some full feature length Studpack… cheers guys!!!
I’ve run into the same vanity issue you are. In your situation idda taken a look at putting the vanity caddy corner to the pony wall. That would have given you another chance to strength at wall by having some 45 degree wall framing in the corner
Epic, very informative, easy to understand, best hints of how to do it correctly, thanks very much!!!
Doing awesome, packeroonies!! Taking care of the details. Love it!
Thanks, you guys are doing a great job keeping things interesting and educational. I also want to say a great job on your attitude and manners. There is a lot of stuff on the internet that starts off ok but the language goes vulgar and people start being rude etc...GOD Bless Ya'll !!! David
Cool thanks David !!!
Gosh darn it, I thought 37+ minutes last video was awesome you really outdid yourself this time crossing the 45 minute mark. Yet still more to go, that is some amazing work you guys are doing more so when you consider you're basically using spit and paper as tools. Really looking forward to seeing how the vanity turns out. Keep it up guys two thumbs way up.
I saw vent pipes in previous video but did I miss an exhaust fan install? Seems critical in that climate. Love the tile :)
A little tip for the grouting. After your grout has dried. Place painters tape along the edges of the seams & hit it with rostellum, neverwet. You'll never have to worry about mildew... EVER ! Did it 5 years ago & still have not encountered mildew.
Paul: master of the crafty tricks! Great content guys, this has become one of the best channels to watch for good quality and instruction. Hawaii aint bad either!
Love the tips. I'm a tile salesman and one bit of advice is don't use red guard, the number of horror stories I heard are one too many. Latecrete and Mapei have cheaper options that are significantly better.
A huge shame you didnt do the tile slanted under the window blocks. With that table saw you should have been able to do it.