Yeah, I stopped watching at the 1:59 mark. You were up in the attic, you had your hole saw; how hard would it have been to drill...I dunno...DOWN. Even if you only drilled through with the pilot bit, then drilled the rest from the stall. Sorry, mate; no sub from me. Cheers.
One tip I picked up for CRJ Electrical channel is to put rubber grommets (the type you use in metal back boxes) under the 4 mounting points of the fan and then screw the fan down - reduces vibration noise.
You can also take two pieces of ply screw the first to a joist and attach the second on top with beaded silicone lowers the amount of vibrations through to the joist
That is how it is done. My cowboy has the ducting at a 45 degree angle and no condensation trap. Oh, and no fan isolator as the job was done about 10 years ago. Time to get a professional in- great to have someone with a pride in their job to show what excellence looks like.
I used this video to finally replace our rubbish noisy old fan with the Manrose inline model you fitted. Really happy with it - much more powerful and so quiet. Thanks for giving me the impetus to get it done as it's been annoying me for years.
I've had the same fan since we bought our house 7 years ago. It's in the attic... in the box it came in, yet to be installed. Maybe after watching this, I'll finally install the bloody thing! 😂
I loved how you covered everything from start to finish! 😊 Whether it's wiring up a fan isolation switch or installing the ductwork, you left no stone unturned.
Found this in my feed literally two minutes after my new Manrose fan was delivered... Google knows me too well! 😆 Some info on condensation traps would be great, but very comprehensive video, great job!
Further to my previous comment. We never used the soffits again. We found roof tile vents much better as the ducting worked better being as short as possible and going in a vertical direction. I do like your use of insulation around the duct that will help with condensation in the duct where it lyes flat on the joists.
In the last hour, you've shown me how easy it is to deal with my steamy bathroom, fix my squeaky steps, and sort out my crap bathroom silicone finishing. Absolute hero.
Your posts are always very good. I was looking for how to replace the bathroom ceiling vent fixing and cover as existing one was getting yellowed and brittle. Your demonstration and tips in this video was simply perfect. Couldn’t have been more clear and helpful. Thank you.
I always use ridged pipe stops turbulence and the build up mould in the duct. You said hard to find a fan with that extraction rate but for my downstairs bathroom fan installed over the shower area ridged ducting under the floor board this is the answer Airflow iCON60 Circular Extractor Fan for Large Bathroom, Utility Room or Kitchen 280mhr/78 ls but it’s a beast! PS I would get a humidity sensor wired up they do one that will work with that fan works good 👍🏾
@@DTech101 I found the fan itself louder though as the sound resonance in the tubes is greater and sound more easily carries in from outside.weapping in rockwool won't stop that. Yes more air flow but not worth it in my experience.
Many years ago I installed a kitchen extractor vent in a soffit as you have done. It was a new build and we had a building control officer come and inspect he wasn’t happy and said it contravened building regs as the moist air would have detrimental effect on the soffits and fascia. I don’t think I’ve seen this extraction position on any new builds.
Now I know the manual shows flexible ducting but.... Air ducting is always better when the inside of the duct is smooth. For such a short run I'd have been using 4" tube with an insulated wrapper. the rough surface in flexible ducting slows down the air travel, it causes turbulence and reduces the efficiencies of the fan. Perhaps not a problem for this install since it's a short run, but worth using a couple of lengths of tube between flexible angle joints. Cracking video, and I could feel your pain filming in that heat... 👍👍
@@flyingwhiteindian In the winter if the duct was not insulated it would get very cold and the steam would condensate in the duct before getting outside which is not desirable.
Just a tip for the less powerful fans, with the duct work I would always recommend using solid ductwork as opposed to flexi. Better air flow, less resistance, less dirt and bacteria captured over time, Also undercut the door to allow make up air.
Just moved into a house with no extractor fan and will be following your video when I install my new one. Thanks for this, it's really informative and very well presented. +1 follower.
Fitted one of these manrose fans a couple of years ago and it's so much better than the small inline fan type as you say. My only regret is not upgrading the ducting at the same time to the insulated type. I'll have to get a handyman to do it now as access is so poor into my eaves. Good video and you've got +1 subscriber from me. Cheers
Brilliant video! 👌🏻 Thanks for filming this, really clear instructions throughout and the demonstration board was perfect to help break it down! Managed to install a HIB Cyclone from scratch with zero issues 😊
Thanks for the vid..... I've just had my new extractor fitted used solid tubing with a slight fall to the outside vent to drain any condensation to the outside, also added rubber grommets under the fan to minimise vibration, plus removed the flyscreen to prevent build up of fluff/dust and added a backdraught flap which keeps the bathroom draught-free especially in winter.
Excellent video, thanks for doing this. Though I'll be okay through having taken notes, a downloadable/printable wiring diagram would be so helpful for when I'm up in the loft etc, when you just want a printout to make sure you're doing it right.
I’ve just swapped an in ceiling style fan which just wasn’t clearing the bathroom of steam with 1 of these style in extractor fans. Doesn’t seem to have made much difference at all even though it’s got almost 3x airflow rate. Whilst I was upgrading the fan I also used solid pipe from the intake vent in ceiling to the fan itself (flexi ducting from the fan exhaust out to the eaves vent as that’s difficult to get to)
Been putting off replacing my dying fan for a while but it was getting closer! Perfectly timed. Purchased my first house recently and your videos have been insanely helpful. Thank you. :)
I've installed one of these, but only after first buying the version without a timer - so be aware that that exists. It didn't even cross my mind that they wouldn't have a timer, thus didn't check the spec, like you wouldn't check the spec of a car to check it has a steering wheel! Screwfix brilliant as ever and exchanged it for the (more expensive) timer version. I've also turned mine down to the lowest power setting as thats fine, and it was surprisingly noisy on medium or high.
I installed the Timer version of the Manrose fan over the shower and also have an always on version (set to lowest speed) in the main part of the bathroom. Did this late last year and we've had no issues with condesnation, mould or "lingering smells" :) Must admit I'm surprised at how quiet these fans are, no need for anti-vibration measures at all.
Great video. One question I got. Has the isolator switch got the 3amp? “The installation must have an omnipolar switch with a contact separation of at least 3mm. The circuit must be protected by either a 3 Amp fuse or suitable 3А МСВ.”
I fitted one a few years ago, those fans are brilliant. The bathroom had mould when I bought it as the builders in 2005 fitted a pathetic mains fan in the ceiling nowhere near the shower and bodged the ducting and I swear it couldn't hold a sheet of toilet paper up because I tried it! The Manrose can hold a flattened toilet roll middle up! And instead of motor vibration the main noise is the rather more pleasant whoosh of airflow.
This video is perfectly timed, I'm ripping out my ensuite and redoing the builders garbage effort (many things wrong including leaks) and I'm putting one of these fans in at the same time 👍
Very made and edited video. Just what I needed to explain this type of install to my son, I bet he will listen to you far better than for me. Cheers. Time for a cold one.
Great video, but one little thing worth mentioning is that any electrical requirement in the installation instructions for any accessory need to be adhered to in order for the installation to be compliant with wiring regulations, and most of these shower fans call for 3A fusing on both the permanent and live cores - so the usual 6A MCB for the lighting radial isn't sufficient for compliance. I usually install a separate single backbox next to the isolator with a 2-way grid plate containing two fuse holders fitted with 3A fuses. It's an added expense and arguably overkill, but technically needs to be done in order to make the installation 100% compliant.
That seems like a lot of wires and 3x back boxes (inc the light switch). Could you instead have a 3a fused DP FCU somewhere in the loft next to the fan? Thanks
Just used the exact same fan for our bathroom, the performance is amazing. I used solid pipe from the fan out through the gable end, just because I worried about moisture pooling inside a long flexi pipe. I have a small drop on the solid pipe, so it's all downhill to the gable vent.
Good video. I fitted one except the fan on the joist causes vibration. Tried mats and rubber under fan, no difference. Finally had to hang it from the rafters with chains. Fan sits on a board like a swing.
Top video mate! Just what i was looking for! Might of been worth adding that the door for the bathroom should be cut back to allow air flow. But over all great video. I will be installing one of these in the summer.
We had the same setup fitted in our new en-suite recently, it’s outstanding and going to do the same in our new bathroom. Wiring it up is a bit confusing for me though, a job for the spark!
With a tile vent in the roof above the bathroom ceiling what is the best way to have the ducting since it will in effect slope upwards to exit as opposed to down like in the soffit example in the video?
good video... i hope to know how to reduce or mitigate the noise and vibration arisen from the extract fan even though acoustic mat is placed below the fan?
An observation- the Wago 221 connectors should be used with the Wago 221-4 junction box with the 3 compartments to be maintenance free (although yours is accessible in the loftspace). The Wago box with the 2 compartments at the end like yours is for the 772 and 333 connectors for a maintenance free connection, just in case someone uses the wrong combination and hides it under floorboards or in a wall. The 2 compartment box can be converted to MF with inserts from Wago👍
I just want to say thank you so much I was so confused and working in my bathroom right now and I don't know what to do thanks to you I want your video and I'm really happy because I have a brass 5 and I transfer to PVC thank you so much
Any recommendations for ventilation in a downstairs shower / toilet room without any direct access to the external wall - it’s adjusting a neighbouring property?
Cracking vid mate. Really well installed. One point though that is a safety issue. The wiring between the fan and the 3 pole switch should have a 3 amp fuse installed. I’m not sure why this is as to me it’s a bit pointless but 90% of manufacturers state that it has to be there in the installation guid. Please don’t think I’m being a keyboard warrior as that was a cracking install you did there just a point I picked up that’s all.
Thank you very much man you have me so much I have a brass pipe I transfer to pvc I was kind of confused and I know what to do I was watching too many videos and you are the only one number one
Great video. It would be nice to have a humidistat option with maybe a wireless humidistat possibly but I suppose this could also be possible with a bit of ingenuity.
Had one of these fan for the last 10 years. Because of the room size & large amount of steam in the room I’ve set the jumper on full speed & the timer keeps the fan on for 5 minutes after the bathroom light is turned off. I get up in the loft once a year to clean the fan . It can be detached from its mount so you don’t have to disconnect the pipes.
Absolutely brilliant video - thank you. About to do same myself. One thing I don't understand is why the chase out between the switch and the isolator? nothing seems to be running in the chase. I'm trying to work the runs out - am I right in thinking like the mock up; run everything up to the wago box in loft and run it out to fan and lights from there? I will need to do a chase like you to get the light swich cable into the loft but will it just go through the isolator switch back box but just using this as a path and making no connections here? Thank you so much again - great channel, Best wishes, James
Great video, quick question. I have existing wall extractor fan, it's been slowing over previous months and makes no noise (still spins slowly). Can you tell which bit is faulty from this? i.e. the thing in the loft or the wall
Hi just wondering can you advise what you should do with the permanent live if you have an extractor that doesn’t have a timer …. I’ve replaced a broken timer extractor for one without but now it’s constantly on the bathroom switch doesn’t turn it off?
Is it better to have the vent over the shower area we put an inline in to replace the ceiling fan but still getting mould patches but only in the shower area unfortunately room doesn’t have external window
I installed a nice no noise fan. However, since the existing duct was smaller, I made an adaptation and it makes a lot of noise. Not because of the fan but because of the muffling effect. Do you have a video of how to replace duct? I will need to replace the duct so it will be a fine job.
Just a heads up, I am an electrician and if it says in the instructions to fit a 3 amp fuse make sure you do it, a few years ago there was a fire caused by a fan and because the electrician didnt fit a 3 amp fuse the insurance company woildnt pay out, the electrician also ended up going to court and lost everything. I think in all the years I have been an electrician I have only ever seen one extractor fan which didnt need to be fused down but I can't remember what make it was. Almost all lighting circuits are protected by a 6amp mcb, some houses have 10amp mcb on lighting.
Would having the vent above the shower not cause a cold draft coming down when showering , say if you don't put the lights on in winter? Would being slightly further from where you stand be better?
thank you very much for this video this is something we need in our house as it doesn`t have an extractor in our bathroom. i will need an electriction though as i`m not competant enough to do the electrical work. a very good video. thank you.
The internal plastic of the ducting I personally like to electrical tape that onto the fan and vents. It gets a nice air tight seal and then I'll push the rest of the ducting over that (insulation and out sheet) and then zip tie that to just minimise it moving.
Fitted the same model before and it works great. But just fitted one in my own home and its not working properly.theres about a metre of duct either side of the fan. It sucks a tissue up from about 2" away. And its set on high. Any suggestions? Thx
I need to install a new fan in my bathroom as the old one has died. My external vent is actually out through the roof. What would you advise to prevent condensation/water running back down the vent and into the fan/bathroom?
I'm analising the possibilty of adding one of these on a kitchen floor with a 150 mm tube going up to a kitchen island balcony. Do you think it would work upside down? sucking the fumes from cooking straight to the floor and outside my house, maximum 1 meter distance tube?
I’ve got a question for you. When it comes to re doing my bathroom I would like to replace my inline fan and ducting that’s in my loft. My question is the fan isolator switch is actually in the loft with the fan. Is that ok or should I replace that and fit one in my hall above the bathroom door? Cheers
Instead of screwing fan onto board, place onto a pillow made of loft insulation and a plastic bag. This will provide sound and vibration isolation. Another way, given room and dependant on local conditions, is place the vent on the facia. This provides a straight through hose connection, unlike a soffit vent. Either way, make sure you drill between the rafters/trusses otherwise you'll be drilling the vent to find it blocked!
The Manrose MF100T instructions state it must be fitted to a circuit with a 3A fuse. 18th edition states manufacturer's instructions are taken into account for electrical installation. I use a double pole fused spur as the isolator with a 3A fuse fitted and a double pole light switch so the lighting circuit and extractor circuit are switched separately when installing these.
@@bertbox69 personally I am not keen on timed fans, if you want a shower or bath in the daytime you either have to have the lights on or flick the lights on or off, a separate on off switch is best.
I had one of these installed when I had my soffits replaced a few years ago so went in through the roof tiles but mine has never worked so well? any idea why? It's installed exactly how you have done it. I took the additional step of adding sound insulation/vibration mat and then screwing it onto the wood so its even quieter.
After securing to a board, i suspended the fan on bungees to stop any noise coming through . Did you not need a back fraught eliminator or is there in already in the fan ?
I would like to use a smart switch/relay to control the fan based on a humidity sensor, rather than having the switched live from the light switch. Do building regs require the isolator power to come from the light switch?
This one was tough to film, hope you find it useful. Please sub if you like the content 😊
Working in lofts is the worst believe me.. All the hard work & effort is Much much appreciated. ❤
Appreciate all the efforts. Definitely sound from down near my way (Norwich).
Yeah, I stopped watching at the 1:59 mark. You were up in the attic, you had your hole saw; how hard would it have been to drill...I dunno...DOWN. Even if you only drilled through with the pilot bit, then drilled the rest from the stall.
Sorry, mate; no sub from me.
Cheers.
Thanks for the video; it was really helpful. Does the fan have a timer that can be set to a specific running time?
@@tetedur377because he’s not rough like you and doesn’t want the finished surface to blow out
One tip I picked up for CRJ Electrical channel is to put rubber grommets (the type you use in metal back boxes) under the 4 mounting points of the fan and then screw the fan down - reduces vibration noise.
Sounds like a great tip that and something I’ve never done 👍
I do the same but use tap washers.
You can also take two pieces of ply screw the first to a joist and attach the second on top with beaded silicone lowers the amount of vibrations through to the joist
It's almost like you know what I need to do in our house! 🤣
Another brilliant and easy to follow guide. Thank you DIY King 👑
I screw these fans through cheap gardeners' kneeling pads, about £5 a pop from Amazon.
That is how it is done. My cowboy has the ducting at a 45 degree angle and no condensation trap. Oh, and no fan isolator as the job was done about 10 years ago. Time to get a professional in- great to have someone with a pride in their job to show what excellence looks like.
I used this video to finally replace our rubbish noisy old fan with the Manrose inline model you fitted. Really happy with it - much more powerful and so quiet. Thanks for giving me the impetus to get it done as it's been annoying me for years.
Glad to have helped out!
I've had the same fan since we bought our house 7 years ago. It's in the attic... in the box it came in, yet to be installed. Maybe after watching this, I'll finally install the bloody thing! 😂
Hah do it! 😊
Same here, only - 4-yrs though..
Same here 1yr just have to wire it in now.
I loved how you covered everything from start to finish! 😊 Whether it's wiring up a fan isolation switch or installing the ductwork, you left no stone unturned.
Glad it was helpful! That was my plan 👍
Thank you so much for this video. My crappy sf100t packed up…followed this video and installed the MF100t….wow what a difference- thanks!
Found this in my feed literally two minutes after my new Manrose fan was delivered... Google knows me too well! 😆 Some info on condensation traps would be great, but very comprehensive video, great job!
Further to my previous comment. We never used the soffits again. We found roof tile vents much better as the ducting worked better being as short as possible and going in a vertical direction. I do like your use of insulation around the duct that will help with condensation in the duct where it lyes flat on the joists.
In the last hour, you've shown me how easy it is to deal with my steamy bathroom, fix my squeaky steps, and sort out my crap bathroom silicone finishing. Absolute hero.
Your posts are always very good. I was looking for how to replace the bathroom ceiling vent fixing and cover as existing one was getting yellowed and brittle. Your demonstration and tips in this video was simply perfect. Couldn’t have been more clear and helpful. Thank you.
I always use ridged pipe stops turbulence and the build up mould in the duct. You said hard to find a fan with that extraction rate but for my downstairs bathroom fan installed over the shower area ridged ducting under the floor board this is the answer
Airflow iCON60 Circular Extractor Fan for Large Bathroom, Utility Room or Kitchen 280mhr/78 ls but it’s a beast!
PS I would get a humidity sensor wired up they do one that will work with that fan works good 👍🏾
Ok used rigid tubes and they are so much louder I defo do not recommend it. Fan noise and noise from outside
@@TrickyTree84 louder maybe more airflow definitely I just suppressed the noise with slabs of rockwool, as extraction rate is what is really needed.
@@DTech101 I found the fan itself louder though as the sound resonance in the tubes is greater and sound more easily carries in from outside.weapping in rockwool won't stop that. Yes more air flow but not worth it in my experience.
Many years ago I installed a kitchen extractor vent in a soffit as you have done. It was a new build and we had a building control officer come and inspect he wasn’t happy and said it contravened building regs as the moist air would have detrimental effect on the soffits and fascia. I don’t think I’ve seen this extraction position on any new builds.
Literally just fitted two of these on my current job. I always recommend these to my customers.
Deffo a great fan 👍
Now I know the manual shows flexible ducting but.... Air ducting is always better when the inside of the duct is smooth. For such a short run I'd have been using 4" tube with an insulated wrapper. the rough surface in flexible ducting slows down the air travel, it causes turbulence and reduces the efficiencies of the fan. Perhaps not a problem for this install since it's a short run, but worth using a couple of lengths of tube between flexible angle joints. Cracking video, and I could feel your pain filming in that heat... 👍👍
I dont understand why the tube has to be insulated - isnt it just taking the air outside. What does the insulation achieve/
@@flyingwhiteindian In the winter if the duct was not insulated it would get very cold and the steam would condensate in the duct before getting outside which is not desirable.
@@flyingwhiteindian Condensation forms and runs back inside. You can get traps to take this away but it's not usually practical.
what air ducting would you recommend??
Just a tip for the less powerful fans, with the duct work I would always recommend using solid ductwork as opposed to flexi. Better air flow, less resistance, less dirt and bacteria captured over time, Also undercut the door to allow make up air.
👍 thanks for sharing
Just moved into a house with no extractor fan and will be following your video when I install my new one. Thanks for this, it's really informative and very well presented. +1 follower.
Fitted one of these manrose fans a couple of years ago and it's so much better than the small inline fan type as you say. My only regret is not upgrading the ducting at the same time to the insulated type. I'll have to get a handyman to do it now as access is so poor into my eaves. Good video and you've got +1 subscriber from me. Cheers
Installed one of these 2 years ago. So much more efficient than the usual extractors and quieter too!
Absolutely 👍
Brilliant video! 👌🏻 Thanks for filming this, really clear instructions throughout and the demonstration board was perfect to help break it down! Managed to install a HIB Cyclone from scratch with zero issues 😊
Thanks for the vid..... I've just had my new extractor fitted used solid tubing with a slight fall to the outside vent to drain any condensation to the outside, also added rubber grommets under the fan to minimise vibration, plus removed the flyscreen to prevent build up of fluff/dust and added a backdraught flap which keeps the bathroom draught-free especially in winter.
👍
These fans need fusing down which I did via a spur with a 3a fuse, I didn’t realise that you could get a fused isolator. Live and learn. Great video
Did you have a fan with a timer if so how did you fuse both sw & permanent live
@@neiltrevatt Same question, The only fused triple pole isolator I've seen has only one fuse and won't fuse against both L & SL
Excellent video, thanks for doing this. Though I'll be okay through having taken notes, a downloadable/printable wiring diagram would be so helpful for when I'm up in the loft etc, when you just want a printout to make sure you're doing it right.
I’ve just swapped an in ceiling style fan which just wasn’t clearing the bathroom of steam with 1 of these style in extractor fans. Doesn’t seem to have made much difference at all even though it’s got almost 3x airflow rate.
Whilst I was upgrading the fan I also used solid pipe from the intake vent in ceiling to the fan itself (flexi ducting from the fan exhaust out to the eaves vent as that’s difficult to get to)
Been putting off replacing my dying fan for a while but it was getting closer! Perfectly timed. Purchased my first house recently and your videos have been insanely helpful. Thank you. :)
Glad to help 😊
I've installed one of these, but only after first buying the version without a timer - so be aware that that exists. It didn't even cross my mind that they wouldn't have a timer, thus didn't check the spec, like you wouldn't check the spec of a car to check it has a steering wheel! Screwfix brilliant as ever and exchanged it for the (more expensive) timer version. I've also turned mine down to the lowest power setting as thats fine, and it was surprisingly noisy on medium or high.
That wiring model was very helpful to understanding what people have done before, so even if I don't do anything I know what might be needed.
I installed the Timer version of the Manrose fan over the shower and also have an always on version (set to lowest speed) in the main part of the bathroom. Did this late last year and we've had no issues with condesnation, mould or "lingering smells" :) Must admit I'm surprised at how quiet these fans are, no need for anti-vibration measures at all.
Is the fan rated for always on?
Great video. One question I got. Has the isolator switch got the 3amp? “The installation must have an omnipolar switch with a contact separation of at least 3mm. The circuit must be protected by either a 3 Amp fuse or suitable 3А МСВ.”
What I would like advice on is where to source the outside vent with a one way flap that does not rattle in a wind??
I fitted one a few years ago, those fans are brilliant. The bathroom had mould when I bought it as the builders in 2005 fitted a pathetic mains fan in the ceiling nowhere near the shower and bodged the ducting and I swear it couldn't hold a sheet of toilet paper up because I tried it! The Manrose can hold a flattened toilet roll middle up! And instead of motor vibration the main noise is the rather more pleasant whoosh of airflow.
Absolutely 👍
Really good extractor, I put one in the shower room of my grandad annex. Gonna use the same for my new bathroom and en-suite.
This video is perfectly timed, I'm ripping out my ensuite and redoing the builders garbage effort (many things wrong including leaks) and I'm putting one of these fans in at the same time 👍
Glad I could help!
very nice very nice way and clear of explanation of wiring fan thanks
Wow.. just wow.. I found this channel only today, watched about 10 videos so far.. Super useful and well explained.. Great work
Thanks and welcome
Love your channel .
Easy to follow No BS .
those In line extractors look well better
Thanks 👍
We just our roof done and install a roof vent tile. Made a big difference the air goes straight up and out. No fiddly bends like before for us.
Nice one 👍
Very made and edited video. Just what I needed to explain this type of install to my son, I bet he will listen to you far better than for me. Cheers. Time for a cold one.
I appreciate that! Show him and I hope it helps him too!
Great video, but one little thing worth mentioning is that any electrical requirement in the installation instructions for any accessory need to be adhered to in order for the installation to be compliant with wiring regulations, and most of these shower fans call for 3A fusing on both the permanent and live cores - so the usual 6A MCB for the lighting radial isn't sufficient for compliance. I usually install a separate single backbox next to the isolator with a 2-way grid plate containing two fuse holders fitted with 3A fuses. It's an added expense and arguably overkill, but technically needs to be done in order to make the installation 100% compliant.
That seems like a lot of wires and 3x back boxes (inc the light switch). Could you instead have a 3a fused DP FCU somewhere in the loft next to the fan? Thanks
That Electrical guide was excellent. Thanks
Thanks for showing this, I've got one to install completely and one to put an external vent on.
Glad I could help 😊
Just used the exact same fan for our bathroom, the performance is amazing. I used solid pipe from the fan out through the gable end, just because I worried about moisture pooling inside a long flexi pipe. I have a small drop on the solid pipe, so it's all downhill to the gable vent.
P.S. the electrics blow my mind, but luckily I have a brother in law who is a sparks who broke it down into simple instructions😂
Yeah if you’ve a long run it was probably the best way 👍. Nice work
Ive got mine screwed loosely down on 4 layers of carpet underlay. Dampens the vibrations a treat.
Good video. I fitted one except the fan on the joist causes vibration. Tried mats and rubber under fan, no difference. Finally had to hang it from the rafters with chains. Fan sits on a board like a swing.
Top video mate! Just what i was looking for! Might of been worth adding that the door for the bathroom should be cut back to allow air flow. But over all great video. I will be installing one of these in the summer.
Just installed this same setup today, thanks to your tutorial. Gave me all the confidence I needed. Thanks 👍
I really liked your easily digestible UA-cam video!
Well done, Sir!
Thank you very much!
i wish you lived near me . a good tradesman is hard to find. Love watching your videos 👍
Thanks, appreciate the support
Great video, would you be able to do a video on removing internal transom glass panels? Cheers
Silky question but where do you get your cable from? Want to make sure it's the right stuff, or is four core, four core regardless where it's from?
Is it possible to do the same set up but to also have a humidistat that triggers the fan as well as the light switch and overrun feature?
We had the same setup fitted in our new en-suite recently, it’s outstanding and going to do the same in our new bathroom. Wiring it up is a bit confusing for me though, a job for the spark!
Definitely worth it 👍
With a tile vent in the roof above the bathroom ceiling what is the best way to have the ducting since it will in effect slope upwards to exit as opposed to down like in the soffit example in the video?
Really well explained and great video . Top job mate
good video... i hope to know how to reduce or mitigate the noise and vibration arisen from the extract fan even though acoustic mat is placed below the fan?
Need a little advice please?!! Is it easy / ok to hook the Manrose up to an pully switch for an old shower which is still live please?
An observation- the Wago 221 connectors should be used with the Wago 221-4 junction box with the 3 compartments to be maintenance free (although yours is accessible in the loftspace). The Wago box with the 2 compartments at the end like yours is for the 772 and 333 connectors for a maintenance free connection, just in case someone uses the wrong combination and hides it under floorboards or in a wall. The 2 compartment box can be converted to MF with inserts from Wago👍
I just want to say thank you so much I was so confused and working in my bathroom right now and I don't know what to do thanks to you I want your video and I'm really happy because I have a brass 5 and I transfer to PVC thank you so much
Great Vid!! Did the same and also included a Back Draught Shutter
Any recommendations for ventilation in a downstairs shower / toilet room without any direct access to the external wall - it’s adjusting a neighbouring property?
Cracking vid mate. Really well installed.
One point though that is a safety issue. The wiring between the fan and the 3 pole switch should have a 3 amp fuse installed. I’m not sure why this is as to me it’s a bit pointless but 90% of manufacturers state that it has to be there in the installation guid.
Please don’t think I’m being a keyboard warrior as that was a cracking install you did there just a point I picked up that’s all.
Cheers 👍
Great informative video thanks, one of my summer jobs fit loft lighting and a new shower fan and youve covered both in detail thanks so much.
Awesome, thank you!
Thank you very much man you have me so much I have a brass pipe I transfer to pvc I was kind of confused and I know what to do I was watching too many videos and you are the only one number one
Great video. It would be nice to have a humidistat option with maybe a wireless humidistat possibly but I suppose this could also be possible with a bit of ingenuity.
Excellent as always. Do you think one of these extractors would suffice for a small kitchen rather than having to have one of the hoods?
Had one of these fan for the last 10 years. Because of the room size & large amount of steam in the room I’ve set the jumper on full speed & the timer keeps the fan on for 5 minutes after the bathroom light is turned off. I get up in the loft once a year to clean the fan . It can be detached from its mount so you don’t have to disconnect the pipes.
Absolutely brilliant video - thank you. About to do same myself. One thing I don't understand is why the chase out between the switch and the isolator? nothing seems to be running in the chase. I'm trying to work the runs out - am I right in thinking like the mock up; run everything up to the wago box in loft and run it out to fan and lights from there? I will need to do a chase like you to get the light swich cable into the loft but will it just go through the isolator switch back box but just using this as a path and making no connections here?
Thank you so much again - great channel, Best wishes, James
Great video! The explanation of the wiring was fantastically clear. Top marks!
Glad you liked it! Thanks
Great video, quick question.
I have existing wall extractor fan, it's been slowing over previous months and makes no noise (still spins slowly). Can you tell which bit is faulty from this? i.e. the thing in the loft or the wall
Great job done, I know what it’s like working in a loft with loft insulation. Many thanks for the detailed video.
Thanks. It’s tough especially with a camera 😆
Hi just wondering can you advise what you should do with the permanent live if you have an extractor that doesn’t have a timer …. I’ve replaced a broken timer extractor for one without but now it’s constantly on the bathroom switch doesn’t turn it off?
Is it better to have the vent over the shower area we put an inline in to replace the ceiling fan but still getting mould patches but only in the shower area unfortunately room doesn’t have external window
Good to see you using insulated ducting
👍
What is the purpose of the insulated ducting over normal flexible plastic ducting? Thanks
Condensation
I installed a nice no noise fan. However, since the existing duct was smaller, I made an adaptation and it makes a lot of noise. Not because of the fan but because of the muffling effect. Do you have a video of how to replace duct? I will need to replace the duct so it will be a fine job.
Just a heads up, I am an electrician and if it says in the instructions to fit a 3 amp fuse make sure you do it, a few years ago there was a fire caused by a fan and because the electrician didnt fit a 3 amp fuse the insurance company woildnt pay out, the electrician also ended up going to court and lost everything.
I think in all the years I have been an electrician I have only ever seen one extractor fan which didnt need to be fused down but I can't remember what make it was.
Almost all lighting circuits are protected by a 6amp mcb, some houses have 10amp mcb on lighting.
Id love a video of you just saying "humidity". 😊
Great job 👍🏻 helpful wiring diagram, reminds me of your older wiring videos 👌🏻
Thanks as always 😊
Would having the vent above the shower not cause a cold draft coming down when showering , say if you don't put the lights on in winter? Would being slightly further from where you stand be better?
What maintenance do you need to do with this type of fan ..? Are there any filters to clean out etc?
Does the internal part of the vent, the part you insert into the ceiling at 2:20, come with the extractor? Thanks!
TOP VID AND INSTALL. Can we use this install in a cubicle approx 90cm x 9cm with standard ceiling construction?
thank you very much for this video this is something we need in our house as it doesn`t have an extractor in our bathroom. i will need an electriction though as i`m not competant enough to do the electrical work. a very good video. thank you.
Glad to help. Definitely give an electrician a shout 😊
@@TheDIYGuy1 I will and costing out the parts isn`t that much. once again thanks
How did you get the 4 core from the fan into the back of the fan isolation switch, did you drill up from the back of the back box?
The internal plastic of the ducting I personally like to electrical tape that onto the fan and vents. It gets a nice air tight seal and then I'll push the rest of the ducting over that (insulation and out sheet) and then zip tie that to just minimise it moving.
Hi mate, i`ve a mixer unit, can I take a feed off of this to power the fan so that the fan comes on when the shower is activated.?
Thanks
J
Fitted the same model before and it works great. But just fitted one in my own home and its not working properly.theres about a metre of duct either side of the fan. It sucks a tissue up from about 2" away. And its set on high. Any suggestions? Thx
I need to install a new fan in my bathroom as the old one has died. My external vent is actually out through the roof. What would you advise to prevent condensation/water running back down the vent and into the fan/bathroom?
I'm analising the possibilty of adding one of these on a kitchen floor with a 150 mm tube going up to a kitchen island balcony. Do you think it would work upside down? sucking the fumes from cooking straight to the floor and outside my house, maximum 1 meter distance tube?
What’s the regs on doing this job DIY? Does it count as notifiable?
I’ve got a question for you. When it comes to re doing my bathroom I would like to replace my inline fan and ducting that’s in my loft. My question is the fan isolator switch is actually in the loft with the fan. Is that ok or should I replace that and fit one in my hall above the bathroom door? Cheers
Instead of screwing fan onto board, place onto a pillow made of loft insulation and a plastic bag. This will provide sound and vibration isolation. Another way, given room and dependant on local conditions, is place the vent on the facia. This provides a straight through hose connection, unlike a soffit vent. Either way, make sure you drill between the rafters/trusses otherwise you'll be drilling the vent to find it blocked!
The Manrose MF100T instructions state it must be fitted to a circuit with a 3A fuse. 18th edition states manufacturer's instructions are taken into account for electrical installation.
I use a double pole fused spur as the isolator with a 3A fuse fitted and a double pole light switch so the lighting circuit and extractor circuit are switched separately when installing these.
Good idea! No need for the fan to always come on when you're just popping in for a quick pee!
@@jayseabie215 for that you'd probably want to fit a humidistat
Click make a fan switch that has a 3amp fuse built in, the vast majority of fans will require a 3amp fuse, there are not many on the market that don't
Always better to have a seperate fused spur for fan, hate it integrated with and dependent on light switch
@@bertbox69 personally I am not keen on timed fans, if you want a shower or bath in the daytime you either have to have the lights on or flick the lights on or off, a separate on off switch is best.
Brilliant video’s ! This manrose fan looks the business. Is it possible to leave costings for such jobs ? I can see there’s a lot involved : )
"inshulation" this vid was really helpful thanks!!
Glad it helped!
I had one of these installed when I had my soffits replaced a few years ago so went in through the roof tiles but mine has never worked so well? any idea why? It's installed exactly how you have done it. I took the additional step of adding sound insulation/vibration mat and then screwing it onto the wood so its even quieter.
These videos make me want to do so much work to my house now 😭
This really helped! thank you
After securing to a board, i suspended the fan on bungees to stop any noise coming through .
Did you not need a back fraught eliminator or is there in already in the fan ?
I have an isolator pull cord for my electric shower is it legal to use that for power?
I would like to use a smart switch/relay to control the fan based on a humidity sensor, rather than having the switched live from the light switch. Do building regs require the isolator power to come from the light switch?