Yeah, I stopped watching at the 1:59 mark. You were up in the attic, you had your hole saw; how hard would it have been to drill...I dunno...DOWN. Even if you only drilled through with the pilot bit, then drilled the rest from the stall. Sorry, mate; no sub from me. Cheers.
One tip I picked up for CRJ Electrical channel is to put rubber grommets (the type you use in metal back boxes) under the 4 mounting points of the fan and then screw the fan down - reduces vibration noise.
You can also take two pieces of ply screw the first to a joist and attach the second on top with beaded silicone lowers the amount of vibrations through to the joist
Clear, excellent video and diagrams. Installed the same fan. Used the same Manrose 100T fan but hung from roof truss, supposedly less noise. Going to change over the one metre PVC flexi duct coming from fan to gable wall due to condensation in the duct during winter. After i installed it i asked my electrician to wire the fan separate to the light as originally fan came on with light, which was a pain when using the shower during the day, and the light was on! Much better now with the fan and light separate!
Others may have already pointed this out but many soffits on older properties were created with asbestos boards - you need to be much more protected with a high performance PPE respirator before cutting the aperture - especially when doing so from below.
In the last hour, you've shown me how easy it is to deal with my steamy bathroom, fix my squeaky steps, and sort out my crap bathroom silicone finishing. Absolute hero.
That is how it is done. My cowboy has the ducting at a 45 degree angle and no condensation trap. Oh, and no fan isolator as the job was done about 10 years ago. Time to get a professional in- great to have someone with a pride in their job to show what excellence looks like.
I've had the same fan since we bought our house 7 years ago. It's in the attic... in the box it came in, yet to be installed. Maybe after watching this, I'll finally install the bloody thing! 😂
I subbed for that demo piece that you made, great teaching aid... I'd have really liked it if you had shown wiring up the dummy, would make for a great short video that people could follow along to.
I used this video to finally replace our rubbish noisy old fan with the Manrose inline model you fitted. Really happy with it - much more powerful and so quiet. Thanks for giving me the impetus to get it done as it's been annoying me for years.
Found this in my feed literally two minutes after my new Manrose fan was delivered... Google knows me too well! 😆 Some info on condensation traps would be great, but very comprehensive video, great job!
I loved how you covered everything from start to finish! 😊 Whether it's wiring up a fan isolation switch or installing the ductwork, you left no stone unturned.
Further to my previous comment. We never used the soffits again. We found roof tile vents much better as the ducting worked better being as short as possible and going in a vertical direction. I do like your use of insulation around the duct that will help with condensation in the duct where it lyes flat on the joists.
Many years ago I installed a kitchen extractor vent in a soffit as you have done. It was a new build and we had a building control officer come and inspect he wasn’t happy and said it contravened building regs as the moist air would have detrimental effect on the soffits and fascia. I don’t think I’ve seen this extraction position on any new builds.
Excellent video, thanks for doing this. Though I'll be okay through having taken notes, a downloadable/printable wiring diagram would be so helpful for when I'm up in the loft etc, when you just want a printout to make sure you're doing it right.
Your posts are always very good. I was looking for how to replace the bathroom ceiling vent fixing and cover as existing one was getting yellowed and brittle. Your demonstration and tips in this video was simply perfect. Couldn’t have been more clear and helpful. Thank you.
Just a tip for the less powerful fans, with the duct work I would always recommend using solid ductwork as opposed to flexi. Better air flow, less resistance, less dirt and bacteria captured over time, Also undercut the door to allow make up air.
I always use ridged pipe stops turbulence and the build up mould in the duct. You said hard to find a fan with that extraction rate but for my downstairs bathroom fan installed over the shower area ridged ducting under the floor board this is the answer Airflow iCON60 Circular Extractor Fan for Large Bathroom, Utility Room or Kitchen 280mhr/78 ls but it’s a beast! PS I would get a humidity sensor wired up they do one that will work with that fan works good 👍🏾
@@DTech101 I found the fan itself louder though as the sound resonance in the tubes is greater and sound more easily carries in from outside.weapping in rockwool won't stop that. Yes more air flow but not worth it in my experience.
Great video. One question I got. Has the isolator switch got the 3amp? “The installation must have an omnipolar switch with a contact separation of at least 3mm. The circuit must be protected by either a 3 Amp fuse or suitable 3А МСВ.”
I’ve just swapped an in ceiling style fan which just wasn’t clearing the bathroom of steam with 1 of these style in extractor fans. Doesn’t seem to have made much difference at all even though it’s got almost 3x airflow rate. Whilst I was upgrading the fan I also used solid pipe from the intake vent in ceiling to the fan itself (flexi ducting from the fan exhaust out to the eaves vent as that’s difficult to get to)
Great video, but one little thing worth mentioning is that any electrical requirement in the installation instructions for any accessory need to be adhered to in order for the installation to be compliant with wiring regulations, and most of these shower fans call for 3A fusing on both the permanent and live cores - so the usual 6A MCB for the lighting radial isn't sufficient for compliance. I usually install a separate single backbox next to the isolator with a 2-way grid plate containing two fuse holders fitted with 3A fuses. It's an added expense and arguably overkill, but technically needs to be done in order to make the installation 100% compliant.
That seems like a lot of wires and 3x back boxes (inc the light switch). Could you instead have a 3a fused DP FCU somewhere in the loft next to the fan? Thanks
Fitted one of these manrose fans a couple of years ago and it's so much better than the small inline fan type as you say. My only regret is not upgrading the ducting at the same time to the insulated type. I'll have to get a handyman to do it now as access is so poor into my eaves. Good video and you've got +1 subscriber from me. Cheers
Brilliant video! 👌🏻 Thanks for filming this, really clear instructions throughout and the demonstration board was perfect to help break it down! Managed to install a HIB Cyclone from scratch with zero issues 😊
Just moved into a house with no extractor fan and will be following your video when I install my new one. Thanks for this, it's really informative and very well presented. +1 follower.
I installed the Timer version of the Manrose fan over the shower and also have an always on version (set to lowest speed) in the main part of the bathroom. Did this late last year and we've had no issues with condesnation, mould or "lingering smells" :) Must admit I'm surprised at how quiet these fans are, no need for anti-vibration measures at all.
Thanks for the vid..... I've just had my new extractor fitted used solid tubing with a slight fall to the outside vent to drain any condensation to the outside, also added rubber grommets under the fan to minimise vibration, plus removed the flyscreen to prevent build up of fluff/dust and added a backdraught flap which keeps the bathroom draught-free especially in winter.
Good video. I fitted one except the fan on the joist causes vibration. Tried mats and rubber under fan, no difference. Finally had to hang it from the rafters with chains. Fan sits on a board like a swing.
Been putting off replacing my dying fan for a while but it was getting closer! Perfectly timed. Purchased my first house recently and your videos have been insanely helpful. Thank you. :)
I fitted one a few years ago, those fans are brilliant. The bathroom had mould when I bought it as the builders in 2005 fitted a pathetic mains fan in the ceiling nowhere near the shower and bodged the ducting and I swear it couldn't hold a sheet of toilet paper up because I tried it! The Manrose can hold a flattened toilet roll middle up! And instead of motor vibration the main noise is the rather more pleasant whoosh of airflow.
Top video mate! Just what i was looking for! Might of been worth adding that the door for the bathroom should be cut back to allow air flow. But over all great video. I will be installing one of these in the summer.
Great video. It would be nice to have a humidistat option with maybe a wireless humidistat possibly but I suppose this could also be possible with a bit of ingenuity.
Hi great video once again I have the same in-line fan can you tell me where you got the inside ceiling vent from so I can get mine fitted the ones I have seen need screwing right on the edge of the hole and don’t have much length for the ducting to fix to many thanks .
I've installed one of these, but only after first buying the version without a timer - so be aware that that exists. It didn't even cross my mind that they wouldn't have a timer, thus didn't check the spec, like you wouldn't check the spec of a car to check it has a steering wheel! Screwfix brilliant as ever and exchanged it for the (more expensive) timer version. I've also turned mine down to the lowest power setting as thats fine, and it was surprisingly noisy on medium or high.
Now I know the manual shows flexible ducting but.... Air ducting is always better when the inside of the duct is smooth. For such a short run I'd have been using 4" tube with an insulated wrapper. the rough surface in flexible ducting slows down the air travel, it causes turbulence and reduces the efficiencies of the fan. Perhaps not a problem for this install since it's a short run, but worth using a couple of lengths of tube between flexible angle joints. Cracking video, and I could feel your pain filming in that heat... 👍👍
@@flyingwhiteindian In the winter if the duct was not insulated it would get very cold and the steam would condensate in the duct before getting outside which is not desirable.
Very made and edited video. Just what I needed to explain this type of install to my son, I bet he will listen to you far better than for me. Cheers. Time for a cold one.
Nice! what was the brand if the cowel used inside the bathroom? the black sleeve 1st is far better than what I got from Manrose to mount 1st and then slide the white part in
Just used the exact same fan for our bathroom, the performance is amazing. I used solid pipe from the fan out through the gable end, just because I worried about moisture pooling inside a long flexi pipe. I have a small drop on the solid pipe, so it's all downhill to the gable vent.
We had the same setup fitted in our new en-suite recently, it’s outstanding and going to do the same in our new bathroom. Wiring it up is a bit confusing for me though, a job for the spark!
The Manrose MF100T instructions state it must be fitted to a circuit with a 3A fuse. 18th edition states manufacturer's instructions are taken into account for electrical installation. I use a double pole fused spur as the isolator with a 3A fuse fitted and a double pole light switch so the lighting circuit and extractor circuit are switched separately when installing these.
@@bertbox69 personally I am not keen on timed fans, if you want a shower or bath in the daytime you either have to have the lights on or flick the lights on or off, a separate on off switch is best.
I’ve just replaced our manrose MF100T after 7 years of use (it died gradually getting slower and slower and yes it was cleaned annually). They are great, quiet extractors, however, having tried all sorts of ducting the wind noise in our small ensuite is very loud. I would be interested in any advice to limit this noise, my 2 thoughts are: 1. Fit a different inlet grill in the ensuit, maybe a different design may cut down the wind noise? 2. Set the fan speed to med or low? However I love the volume of air this thing sucks out on high speed, it almost closes the door! 🤣 Grateful for any advice please…..👍
Cracking vid mate. Really well installed. One point though that is a safety issue. The wiring between the fan and the 3 pole switch should have a 3 amp fuse installed. I’m not sure why this is as to me it’s a bit pointless but 90% of manufacturers state that it has to be there in the installation guid. Please don’t think I’m being a keyboard warrior as that was a cracking install you did there just a point I picked up that’s all.
With a tile vent in the roof above the bathroom ceiling what is the best way to have the ducting since it will in effect slope upwards to exit as opposed to down like in the soffit example in the video?
good video... i hope to know how to reduce or mitigate the noise and vibration arisen from the extract fan even though acoustic mat is placed below the fan?
Absolutely brilliant video - thank you. About to do same myself. One thing I don't understand is why the chase out between the switch and the isolator? nothing seems to be running in the chase. I'm trying to work the runs out - am I right in thinking like the mock up; run everything up to the wago box in loft and run it out to fan and lights from there? I will need to do a chase like you to get the light swich cable into the loft but will it just go through the isolator switch back box but just using this as a path and making no connections here? Thank you so much again - great channel, Best wishes, James
This video is perfectly timed, I'm ripping out my ensuite and redoing the builders garbage effort (many things wrong including leaks) and I'm putting one of these fans in at the same time 👍
Any recommendations for ventilation in a downstairs shower / toilet room without any direct access to the external wall - it’s adjusting a neighbouring property?
The internal plastic of the ducting I personally like to electrical tape that onto the fan and vents. It gets a nice air tight seal and then I'll push the rest of the ducting over that (insulation and out sheet) and then zip tie that to just minimise it moving.
I bought a MF100T a few weeks ago. It’s running at its maximum speed, the fan has approximately 400mm of duct either side, venting out of the gable end with a wind flap vent. The vent is directly over the shower (rainfall type) The suction is unbelievable I must admit however the bathroom is still very foggy when showering and moisture is still dripping from the ceiling, walls are still wet after a shower. I don’t know what more I can do, very annoying. I may install another fan but on the external wall and see if that helps.
An observation- the Wago 221 connectors should be used with the Wago 221-4 junction box with the 3 compartments to be maintenance free (although yours is accessible in the loftspace). The Wago box with the 2 compartments at the end like yours is for the 772 and 333 connectors for a maintenance free connection, just in case someone uses the wrong combination and hides it under floorboards or in a wall. The 2 compartment box can be converted to MF with inserts from Wago👍
if only those fans could connect to a smart home system.... combined with a humidity sensor in the bathroom... the overrun could then be controlled by the humidity in the room and not just a fixed timer. Great vid as always.
I recently fitted a inline bathroom fan and fused it down to 3a as per manufacturers instructions (this is their get out clause in case of problems) you could make up a multi gang switch plate to fuse both line and switch line together with a three pole isolater but it gets a bit over the top and messy. The best solution I found was fit a smart switch cheap as chips which is linked to Alexa and I find this the very best for complete control over overrun I just ask Alexa to switch on the fan and on it goes for 20 minutes you can alter the settings by just asking Alexa “ turn on fan for xx minutes” and of course you don’t need to have the fan running at all for a trip to the loo at 3am. Probably not the best solution for a enclosed bathroom where I would guess a light linked fan would be required but in my situation this works the best.
@@David-dz8jb In the end I bought this fan.... which is connected to the isolator of the old one.... inline I put a Sonoff Basic R2, which I flashed with Tasmota for 100% local control. I placed a Zigbee humidity sensor in the bathroom, and another in the hall way. Everything is connected to Home Assistant. An automation is triggered if the bathroom humidity sensor is 8% higher than the one in the hall (i.e. someone is using the shower!!!) the fan automatically comes on until the humidity sensor in the bathroom is within 3% of the one in the hall. Works absolutely perfectly. I'm also putting a Zigbee button in the bathroom to press if you want a 3 minute fan extraction - i.e. you've done a poo!!!!!! LOL!!!!
@@asifchoglay6013 I realised that 3minutes per poo was not enough!! LOL!!!! 5 minutes it is!!! ;-) Also instead of a 'button' to press... I hid a magnet, plastered into the wall... and inside a poo emoji toy, I put a door / window contact sensor!!!! The kids (and me!!!!) love tapping the poo toy on the wall to get the fan boost!!! ;-)
Is it better to have the vent over the shower area we put an inline in to replace the ceiling fan but still getting mould patches but only in the shower area unfortunately room doesn’t have external window
Would having the vent above the shower not cause a cold draft coming down when showering , say if you don't put the lights on in winter? Would being slightly further from where you stand be better?
Hi just wondering can you advise what you should do with the permanent live if you have an extractor that doesn’t have a timer …. I’ve replaced a broken timer extractor for one without but now it’s constantly on the bathroom switch doesn’t turn it off?
thank you very much for this video this is something we need in our house as it doesn`t have an extractor in our bathroom. i will need an electriction though as i`m not competant enough to do the electrical work. a very good video. thank you.
I installed a nice no noise fan. However, since the existing duct was smaller, I made an adaptation and it makes a lot of noise. Not because of the fan but because of the muffling effect. Do you have a video of how to replace duct? I will need to replace the duct so it will be a fine job.
Nice video and very well explained regarding the wiring. I'm sure I read somewhere that you shouldn't put extractor fan inlets and smoke detectors in the corners of rooms due to how air flows in a room.
Smoke detection should be 1M in from walls where possible and installed flat, as smoke rolls. Extract ventilation is sited more source specific, like over baths/toilets, in front of cooking areas etc.
Thank you very much man you have me so much I have a brass pipe I transfer to pvc I was kind of confused and I know what to do I was watching too many videos and you are the only one number one
Great content and very useful I often visit your videos for guidance. I just want to highlight that I am an asbestos surveyor and your soffit looks very suspicious of containing asbestos. Asbestos insulating board which is a very dangerous material when disturbed. Just a heads up that if your house is circa 1970 please ensure you have a survey conducted so that you are not putting yourself or anybody else at risk of exposure. Keep posting as you are very informative 👌
Just a heads up, I am an electrician and if it says in the instructions to fit a 3 amp fuse make sure you do it, a few years ago there was a fire caused by a fan and because the electrician didnt fit a 3 amp fuse the insurance company woildnt pay out, the electrician also ended up going to court and lost everything. I think in all the years I have been an electrician I have only ever seen one extractor fan which didnt need to be fused down but I can't remember what make it was. Almost all lighting circuits are protected by a 6amp mcb, some houses have 10amp mcb on lighting.
This one was tough to film, hope you find it useful. Please sub if you like the content 😊
Working in lofts is the worst believe me.. All the hard work & effort is Much much appreciated. ❤
Appreciate all the efforts. Definitely sound from down near my way (Norwich).
Yeah, I stopped watching at the 1:59 mark. You were up in the attic, you had your hole saw; how hard would it have been to drill...I dunno...DOWN. Even if you only drilled through with the pilot bit, then drilled the rest from the stall.
Sorry, mate; no sub from me.
Cheers.
Thanks for the video; it was really helpful. Does the fan have a timer that can be set to a specific running time?
@@tetedur377because he’s not rough like you and doesn’t want the finished surface to blow out
One tip I picked up for CRJ Electrical channel is to put rubber grommets (the type you use in metal back boxes) under the 4 mounting points of the fan and then screw the fan down - reduces vibration noise.
Sounds like a great tip that and something I’ve never done 👍
I do the same but use tap washers.
You can also take two pieces of ply screw the first to a joist and attach the second on top with beaded silicone lowers the amount of vibrations through to the joist
It's almost like you know what I need to do in our house! 🤣
Another brilliant and easy to follow guide. Thank you DIY King 👑
I screw these fans through cheap gardeners' kneeling pads, about £5 a pop from Amazon.
Clear, excellent video and diagrams. Installed the same fan. Used the same Manrose 100T fan but hung from roof truss, supposedly less noise. Going to change over the one metre PVC flexi duct coming from fan to gable wall due to condensation in the duct during winter. After i installed it i asked my electrician to wire the fan separate to the light as originally fan came on with light, which was a pain when using the shower during the day, and the light was on! Much better now with the fan and light separate!
Others may have already pointed this out but many soffits on older properties were created with asbestos boards - you need to be much more protected with a high performance PPE respirator before cutting the aperture - especially when doing so from below.
In the last hour, you've shown me how easy it is to deal with my steamy bathroom, fix my squeaky steps, and sort out my crap bathroom silicone finishing. Absolute hero.
That is how it is done. My cowboy has the ducting at a 45 degree angle and no condensation trap. Oh, and no fan isolator as the job was done about 10 years ago. Time to get a professional in- great to have someone with a pride in their job to show what excellence looks like.
I've had the same fan since we bought our house 7 years ago. It's in the attic... in the box it came in, yet to be installed. Maybe after watching this, I'll finally install the bloody thing! 😂
Hah do it! 😊
Same here, only - 4-yrs though..
Same here 1yr just have to wire it in now.
I subbed for that demo piece that you made, great teaching aid... I'd have really liked it if you had shown wiring up the dummy, would make for a great short video that people could follow along to.
I used this video to finally replace our rubbish noisy old fan with the Manrose inline model you fitted. Really happy with it - much more powerful and so quiet. Thanks for giving me the impetus to get it done as it's been annoying me for years.
Glad to have helped out!
Found this in my feed literally two minutes after my new Manrose fan was delivered... Google knows me too well! 😆 Some info on condensation traps would be great, but very comprehensive video, great job!
Thanks!
Thanks to you too 👍
I loved how you covered everything from start to finish! 😊 Whether it's wiring up a fan isolation switch or installing the ductwork, you left no stone unturned.
Glad it was helpful! That was my plan 👍
Further to my previous comment. We never used the soffits again. We found roof tile vents much better as the ducting worked better being as short as possible and going in a vertical direction. I do like your use of insulation around the duct that will help with condensation in the duct where it lyes flat on the joists.
Many years ago I installed a kitchen extractor vent in a soffit as you have done. It was a new build and we had a building control officer come and inspect he wasn’t happy and said it contravened building regs as the moist air would have detrimental effect on the soffits and fascia. I don’t think I’ve seen this extraction position on any new builds.
Excellent video, thanks for doing this. Though I'll be okay through having taken notes, a downloadable/printable wiring diagram would be so helpful for when I'm up in the loft etc, when you just want a printout to make sure you're doing it right.
These fans need fusing down which I did via a spur with a 3a fuse, I didn’t realise that you could get a fused isolator. Live and learn. Great video
Did you have a fan with a timer if so how did you fuse both sw & permanent live
@@neiltrevatt Same question, The only fused triple pole isolator I've seen has only one fuse and won't fuse against both L & SL
@@Dr.Stackerdid you find out in the end? I’m due to install one soon
Your posts are always very good. I was looking for how to replace the bathroom ceiling vent fixing and cover as existing one was getting yellowed and brittle. Your demonstration and tips in this video was simply perfect. Couldn’t have been more clear and helpful. Thank you.
Thank you so much for this video. My crappy sf100t packed up…followed this video and installed the MF100t….wow what a difference- thanks!
Just a tip for the less powerful fans, with the duct work I would always recommend using solid ductwork as opposed to flexi. Better air flow, less resistance, less dirt and bacteria captured over time, Also undercut the door to allow make up air.
👍 thanks for sharing
Ive got mine screwed loosely down on 4 layers of carpet underlay. Dampens the vibrations a treat.
I always use ridged pipe stops turbulence and the build up mould in the duct. You said hard to find a fan with that extraction rate but for my downstairs bathroom fan installed over the shower area ridged ducting under the floor board this is the answer
Airflow iCON60 Circular Extractor Fan for Large Bathroom, Utility Room or Kitchen 280mhr/78 ls but it’s a beast!
PS I would get a humidity sensor wired up they do one that will work with that fan works good 👍🏾
Ok used rigid tubes and they are so much louder I defo do not recommend it. Fan noise and noise from outside
@@TrickyTree84 louder maybe more airflow definitely I just suppressed the noise with slabs of rockwool, as extraction rate is what is really needed.
@@DTech101 I found the fan itself louder though as the sound resonance in the tubes is greater and sound more easily carries in from outside.weapping in rockwool won't stop that. Yes more air flow but not worth it in my experience.
Great video. One question I got. Has the isolator switch got the 3amp? “The installation must have an omnipolar switch with a contact separation of at least 3mm. The circuit must be protected by either a 3 Amp fuse or suitable 3А МСВ.”
I’ve just swapped an in ceiling style fan which just wasn’t clearing the bathroom of steam with 1 of these style in extractor fans. Doesn’t seem to have made much difference at all even though it’s got almost 3x airflow rate.
Whilst I was upgrading the fan I also used solid pipe from the intake vent in ceiling to the fan itself (flexi ducting from the fan exhaust out to the eaves vent as that’s difficult to get to)
Great video, but one little thing worth mentioning is that any electrical requirement in the installation instructions for any accessory need to be adhered to in order for the installation to be compliant with wiring regulations, and most of these shower fans call for 3A fusing on both the permanent and live cores - so the usual 6A MCB for the lighting radial isn't sufficient for compliance. I usually install a separate single backbox next to the isolator with a 2-way grid plate containing two fuse holders fitted with 3A fuses. It's an added expense and arguably overkill, but technically needs to be done in order to make the installation 100% compliant.
That seems like a lot of wires and 3x back boxes (inc the light switch). Could you instead have a 3a fused DP FCU somewhere in the loft next to the fan? Thanks
What I would like advice on is where to source the outside vent with a one way flap that does not rattle in a wind??
Literally just fitted two of these on my current job. I always recommend these to my customers.
Deffo a great fan 👍
Wow.. just wow.. I found this channel only today, watched about 10 videos so far.. Super useful and well explained.. Great work
Thanks and welcome
Fitted one of these manrose fans a couple of years ago and it's so much better than the small inline fan type as you say. My only regret is not upgrading the ducting at the same time to the insulated type. I'll have to get a handyman to do it now as access is so poor into my eaves. Good video and you've got +1 subscriber from me. Cheers
Brilliant video! 👌🏻 Thanks for filming this, really clear instructions throughout and the demonstration board was perfect to help break it down! Managed to install a HIB Cyclone from scratch with zero issues 😊
Just moved into a house with no extractor fan and will be following your video when I install my new one. Thanks for this, it's really informative and very well presented. +1 follower.
I installed the Timer version of the Manrose fan over the shower and also have an always on version (set to lowest speed) in the main part of the bathroom. Did this late last year and we've had no issues with condesnation, mould or "lingering smells" :) Must admit I'm surprised at how quiet these fans are, no need for anti-vibration measures at all.
Is the fan rated for always on?
Great video, would you be able to do a video on removing internal transom glass panels? Cheers
Love your channel .
Easy to follow No BS .
those In line extractors look well better
Thanks 👍
Thanks for the vid..... I've just had my new extractor fitted used solid tubing with a slight fall to the outside vent to drain any condensation to the outside, also added rubber grommets under the fan to minimise vibration, plus removed the flyscreen to prevent build up of fluff/dust and added a backdraught flap which keeps the bathroom draught-free especially in winter.
👍
Good video. I fitted one except the fan on the joist causes vibration. Tried mats and rubber under fan, no difference. Finally had to hang it from the rafters with chains. Fan sits on a board like a swing.
Been putting off replacing my dying fan for a while but it was getting closer! Perfectly timed. Purchased my first house recently and your videos have been insanely helpful. Thank you. :)
Glad to help 😊
I fitted one a few years ago, those fans are brilliant. The bathroom had mould when I bought it as the builders in 2005 fitted a pathetic mains fan in the ceiling nowhere near the shower and bodged the ducting and I swear it couldn't hold a sheet of toilet paper up because I tried it! The Manrose can hold a flattened toilet roll middle up! And instead of motor vibration the main noise is the rather more pleasant whoosh of airflow.
Absolutely 👍
Top video mate! Just what i was looking for! Might of been worth adding that the door for the bathroom should be cut back to allow air flow. But over all great video. I will be installing one of these in the summer.
Great video. It would be nice to have a humidistat option with maybe a wireless humidistat possibly but I suppose this could also be possible with a bit of ingenuity.
That wiring model was very helpful to understanding what people have done before, so even if I don't do anything I know what might be needed.
Hi great video once again I have the same in-line fan can you tell me where you got the inside ceiling vent from so I can get mine fitted the ones I have seen need screwing right on the edge of the hole and don’t have much length for the ducting to fix to many thanks .
I've installed one of these, but only after first buying the version without a timer - so be aware that that exists. It didn't even cross my mind that they wouldn't have a timer, thus didn't check the spec, like you wouldn't check the spec of a car to check it has a steering wheel! Screwfix brilliant as ever and exchanged it for the (more expensive) timer version. I've also turned mine down to the lowest power setting as thats fine, and it was surprisingly noisy on medium or high.
Installed one of these 2 years ago. So much more efficient than the usual extractors and quieter too!
Absolutely 👍
Now I know the manual shows flexible ducting but.... Air ducting is always better when the inside of the duct is smooth. For such a short run I'd have been using 4" tube with an insulated wrapper. the rough surface in flexible ducting slows down the air travel, it causes turbulence and reduces the efficiencies of the fan. Perhaps not a problem for this install since it's a short run, but worth using a couple of lengths of tube between flexible angle joints. Cracking video, and I could feel your pain filming in that heat... 👍👍
I dont understand why the tube has to be insulated - isnt it just taking the air outside. What does the insulation achieve/
@@flyingwhiteindian In the winter if the duct was not insulated it would get very cold and the steam would condensate in the duct before getting outside which is not desirable.
@@flyingwhiteindian Condensation forms and runs back inside. You can get traps to take this away but it's not usually practical.
what air ducting would you recommend??
Very made and edited video. Just what I needed to explain this type of install to my son, I bet he will listen to you far better than for me. Cheers. Time for a cold one.
I appreciate that! Show him and I hope it helps him too!
Would you be able to hear it in the bedrooms? Or any vibrations?
Nice! what was the brand if the cowel used inside the bathroom? the black sleeve 1st is far better than what I got from Manrose to mount 1st and then slide the white part in
Just used the exact same fan for our bathroom, the performance is amazing. I used solid pipe from the fan out through the gable end, just because I worried about moisture pooling inside a long flexi pipe. I have a small drop on the solid pipe, so it's all downhill to the gable vent.
P.S. the electrics blow my mind, but luckily I have a brother in law who is a sparks who broke it down into simple instructions😂
Yeah if you’ve a long run it was probably the best way 👍. Nice work
We had the same setup fitted in our new en-suite recently, it’s outstanding and going to do the same in our new bathroom. Wiring it up is a bit confusing for me though, a job for the spark!
Definitely worth it 👍
The Manrose MF100T instructions state it must be fitted to a circuit with a 3A fuse. 18th edition states manufacturer's instructions are taken into account for electrical installation.
I use a double pole fused spur as the isolator with a 3A fuse fitted and a double pole light switch so the lighting circuit and extractor circuit are switched separately when installing these.
Good idea! No need for the fan to always come on when you're just popping in for a quick pee!
@@jayseabie215 for that you'd probably want to fit a humidistat
Click make a fan switch that has a 3amp fuse built in, the vast majority of fans will require a 3amp fuse, there are not many on the market that don't
Always better to have a seperate fused spur for fan, hate it integrated with and dependent on light switch
@@bertbox69 personally I am not keen on timed fans, if you want a shower or bath in the daytime you either have to have the lights on or flick the lights on or off, a separate on off switch is best.
I’ve just replaced our manrose MF100T after 7 years of use (it died gradually getting slower and slower and yes it was cleaned annually). They are great, quiet extractors, however, having tried all sorts of ducting the wind noise in our small ensuite is very loud. I would be interested in any advice to limit this noise, my 2 thoughts are:
1. Fit a different inlet grill in the ensuit, maybe a different design may cut down the wind noise?
2. Set the fan speed to med or low? However I love the volume of air this thing sucks out on high speed, it almost closes the door! 🤣
Grateful for any advice please…..👍
Cracking vid mate. Really well installed.
One point though that is a safety issue. The wiring between the fan and the 3 pole switch should have a 3 amp fuse installed. I’m not sure why this is as to me it’s a bit pointless but 90% of manufacturers state that it has to be there in the installation guid.
Please don’t think I’m being a keyboard warrior as that was a cracking install you did there just a point I picked up that’s all.
Cheers 👍
With a tile vent in the roof above the bathroom ceiling what is the best way to have the ducting since it will in effect slope upwards to exit as opposed to down like in the soffit example in the video?
We just our roof done and install a roof vent tile. Made a big difference the air goes straight up and out. No fiddly bends like before for us.
Nice one 👍
Thanks for showing this, I've got one to install completely and one to put an external vent on.
Glad I could help 😊
Great informative video thanks, one of my summer jobs fit loft lighting and a new shower fan and youve covered both in detail thanks so much.
Awesome, thank you!
very nice very nice way and clear of explanation of wiring fan thanks
Really good extractor, I put one in the shower room of my grandad annex. Gonna use the same for my new bathroom and en-suite.
good video... i hope to know how to reduce or mitigate the noise and vibration arisen from the extract fan even though acoustic mat is placed below the fan?
Really well explained and great video . Top job mate
I really liked your easily digestible UA-cam video!
Well done, Sir!
Thank you very much!
Absolutely brilliant video - thank you. About to do same myself. One thing I don't understand is why the chase out between the switch and the isolator? nothing seems to be running in the chase. I'm trying to work the runs out - am I right in thinking like the mock up; run everything up to the wago box in loft and run it out to fan and lights from there? I will need to do a chase like you to get the light swich cable into the loft but will it just go through the isolator switch back box but just using this as a path and making no connections here?
Thank you so much again - great channel, Best wishes, James
This video is perfectly timed, I'm ripping out my ensuite and redoing the builders garbage effort (many things wrong including leaks) and I'm putting one of these fans in at the same time 👍
Glad I could help!
Any recommendations for ventilation in a downstairs shower / toilet room without any direct access to the external wall - it’s adjusting a neighbouring property?
Is it possible to do the same set up but to also have a humidistat that triggers the fan as well as the light switch and overrun feature?
The internal plastic of the ducting I personally like to electrical tape that onto the fan and vents. It gets a nice air tight seal and then I'll push the rest of the ducting over that (insulation and out sheet) and then zip tie that to just minimise it moving.
Hi. What ducting would you use if the run was approx 5m and going out the gable.
Cheers
Great video. However, the soffit looked like an Asbestos one?
Thanks. Soffit tested and clear
Great video! The explanation of the wiring was fantastically clear. Top marks!
Glad you liked it! Thanks
I bought a MF100T a few weeks ago. It’s running at its maximum speed, the fan has approximately 400mm of duct either side, venting out of the gable end with a wind flap vent. The vent is directly over the shower (rainfall type) The suction is unbelievable I must admit however the bathroom is still very foggy when showering and moisture is still dripping from the ceiling, walls are still wet after a shower. I don’t know what more I can do, very annoying. I may install another fan but on the external wall and see if that helps.
Hi mate if I have 2 en-suites and one main bathroom can I connect this to 3 bathroom switches ?
An observation- the Wago 221 connectors should be used with the Wago 221-4 junction box with the 3 compartments to be maintenance free (although yours is accessible in the loftspace). The Wago box with the 2 compartments at the end like yours is for the 772 and 333 connectors for a maintenance free connection, just in case someone uses the wrong combination and hides it under floorboards or in a wall. The 2 compartment box can be converted to MF with inserts from Wago👍
if only those fans could connect to a smart home system.... combined with a humidity sensor in the bathroom... the overrun could then be controlled by the humidity in the room and not just a fixed timer. Great vid as always.
Great point! Thanks
I recently fitted a inline bathroom fan and fused it down to 3a as per manufacturers instructions (this is their get out clause in case of problems) you could make up a multi gang switch plate to fuse both line and switch line together with a three pole isolater but it gets a bit over the top and messy. The best solution I found was fit a smart switch cheap as chips which is linked to Alexa and I find this the very best for complete control over overrun I just ask Alexa to switch on the fan and on it goes for 20 minutes you can alter the settings by just asking Alexa “ turn on fan for xx minutes” and of course you don’t need to have the fan running at all for a trip to the loo at 3am. Probably not the best solution for a enclosed bathroom where I would guess a light linked fan would be required but in my situation this works the best.
@@David-dz8jb In the end I bought this fan.... which is connected to the isolator of the old one.... inline I put a Sonoff Basic R2, which I flashed with Tasmota for 100% local control. I placed a Zigbee humidity sensor in the bathroom, and another in the hall way. Everything is connected to Home Assistant. An automation is triggered if the bathroom humidity sensor is 8% higher than the one in the hall (i.e. someone is using the shower!!!) the fan automatically comes on until the humidity sensor in the bathroom is within 3% of the one in the hall. Works absolutely perfectly. I'm also putting a Zigbee button in the bathroom to press if you want a 3 minute fan extraction - i.e. you've done a poo!!!!!! LOL!!!!
@@johnadams1976 superb.
@@asifchoglay6013 I realised that 3minutes per poo was not enough!! LOL!!!! 5 minutes it is!!! ;-) Also instead of a 'button' to press... I hid a magnet, plastered into the wall... and inside a poo emoji toy, I put a door / window contact sensor!!!! The kids (and me!!!!) love tapping the poo toy on the wall to get the fan boost!!! ;-)
Is it better to have the vent over the shower area we put an inline in to replace the ceiling fan but still getting mould patches but only in the shower area unfortunately room doesn’t have external window
Would having the vent above the shower not cause a cold draft coming down when showering , say if you don't put the lights on in winter? Would being slightly further from where you stand be better?
i wish you lived near me . a good tradesman is hard to find. Love watching your videos 👍
Thanks, appreciate the support
Great Vid!! Did the same and also included a Back Draught Shutter
Hi just wondering can you advise what you should do with the permanent live if you have an extractor that doesn’t have a timer …. I’ve replaced a broken timer extractor for one without but now it’s constantly on the bathroom switch doesn’t turn it off?
Does the internal part of the vent, the part you insert into the ceiling at 2:20, come with the extractor? Thanks!
Excellent as always. Do you think one of these extractors would suffice for a small kitchen rather than having to have one of the hoods?
mate, any tip on dampening vibration? had one installed and it HUMS the entire freaking house!
Rubber grommets under fixings and attaching not directly above the ceiling, maybe adding extra board under.
Need a little advice please?!! Is it easy / ok to hook the Manrose up to an pully switch for an old shower which is still live please?
thank you very much for this video this is something we need in our house as it doesn`t have an extractor in our bathroom. i will need an electriction though as i`m not competant enough to do the electrical work. a very good video. thank you.
Glad to help. Definitely give an electrician a shout 😊
@@TheDIYGuy1 I will and costing out the parts isn`t that much. once again thanks
Great job done, I know what it’s like working in a loft with loft insulation. Many thanks for the detailed video.
Thanks. It’s tough especially with a camera 😆
I installed a nice no noise fan. However, since the existing duct was smaller, I made an adaptation and it makes a lot of noise. Not because of the fan but because of the muffling effect. Do you have a video of how to replace duct? I will need to replace the duct so it will be a fine job.
That Electrical guide was excellent. Thanks
Brilliant video’s ! This manrose fan looks the business. Is it possible to leave costings for such jobs ? I can see there’s a lot involved : )
How to stop all the steam from finding it's way back under the soffit though? Unless the fan can blow it five meters away?
Nice video and very well explained regarding the wiring.
I'm sure I read somewhere that you shouldn't put extractor fan inlets and smoke detectors in the corners of rooms due to how air flows in a room.
👍 thanks, never had a problem myself with this position but I’d like to hear if anyone has.
Smoke detection should be 1M in from walls where possible and installed flat, as smoke rolls.
Extract ventilation is sited more source specific, like over baths/toilets, in front of cooking areas etc.
By putting the valve in the corner you do restrict the air flow, however in this scenario the difference would be negligible
Thank you very much man you have me so much I have a brass pipe I transfer to pvc I was kind of confused and I know what to do I was watching too many videos and you are the only one number one
Just installed this same setup today, thanks to your tutorial. Gave me all the confidence I needed. Thanks 👍
Great content and very useful I often visit your videos for guidance.
I just want to highlight that I am an asbestos surveyor and your soffit looks very suspicious of containing asbestos. Asbestos insulating board which is a very dangerous material when disturbed. Just a heads up that if your house is circa 1970 please ensure you have a survey conducted so that you are not putting yourself or anybody else at risk of exposure.
Keep posting as you are very informative 👌
Thanks and thanks for the advice 👍
"inshulation" this vid was really helpful thanks!!
Glad it helped!
Hi mate, i`ve a mixer unit, can I take a feed off of this to power the fan so that the fan comes on when the shower is activated.?
Thanks
J
Good to see you using insulated ducting
👍
What is the purpose of the insulated ducting over normal flexible plastic ducting? Thanks
Condensation
We use the Ventaxia version of these where I work in a theatre to pump smoke onto the stage. They're more expensive but much quieter.
👍
What maintenance do you need to do with this type of fan ..? Are there any filters to clean out etc?
Silly question but where do you get your cable from? Want to make sure it's the right stuff, or is four core, four core regardless where it's from?
How did you get the 4 core from the fan into the back of the fan isolation switch, did you drill up from the back of the back box?
Just a heads up, I am an electrician and if it says in the instructions to fit a 3 amp fuse make sure you do it, a few years ago there was a fire caused by a fan and because the electrician didnt fit a 3 amp fuse the insurance company woildnt pay out, the electrician also ended up going to court and lost everything.
I think in all the years I have been an electrician I have only ever seen one extractor fan which didnt need to be fused down but I can't remember what make it was.
Almost all lighting circuits are protected by a 6amp mcb, some houses have 10amp mcb on lighting.