Melting Fuses Fixed - Upgrading Euro Fuses to ATO/ATC

nothing better than the smell of burning fuses in the morning....
Our 1988 Volvo has recently starting having issues with melting GBC, euro and torpedo style fuses. I switched from plastic to ceramic to see if that fixed the issue, but using our infrared temperate gauge showed things still getting way to hot. To the point it was actually melting fuses!
The fix is to either install a new upgraded fuse panel or fix the individual circuit. I installed an inline fuse holder that uses ATO/ATC fuses and soldered it onto the existing brass connections. After a quick check with the temp gun - we are back in business.

[@MatthewFinlay]

Ya'll are the best! Keep up the good work being you

[@TheMilkman740GL]

FUN FACT- The 700 series came with ATO fuses stock, they are behind the ashtray!

[@WRXINTX]

Matt, yours is one of my absolute favorite channels I subscribe to. Watching everything you put out to get a nice healthy dose of sarcasm and cynically-slanted knowledge with comical reviews. Your line “not a craq-house, it’s a craq-home”, had me rolling. I am trying to decide which wire harness and panel to go to for under the dash to replace the corroded “read-rusty” glass fuse holders of our fuse panel in our 1967 Olds Cutlass. I also much prefer the ATC or mini ATC fuses as well. What did you do on your Riviera? My wiring under hood is already done with bussman panels and tefzel wire all for the EFI and all systems, but my under dash is a rolling dumpster fire of lost hope and disappointment mixed with frustrations of a man who knows better.

[@MatthewFinlay]

Lost hope and disappointment mixed with frustrations is my speciality! First off thank your for being here buddy and I’m glad you like all my garbage! The riviera is using a “universal” 22 circuit fuse panel from eBay. I was in the same spot not wanting to mess with a 50 year old glass fuse block and wiring. The Beetle LS swap is hybrid with a tiny “hot rod” style 14 circuit fuse block to run the body/car side and a separate bussman specifically for the LS engine wiring mounted underhood - similar to what it sounds like you’re thinking. I always like to get a bigger harness circuit wise than I think I’ll need because then I can use the extra lines for separating out stuff rather than daisy-chaining like a lot of the small kits do. Aka separate fuses for the radio and ACC plug instead of combined. I usually just shop for cheapest harness but making sure to make sure it’s real copper wire not copper clad. I’ve seen cheap chinesium wire get corrosion inside the jacket and I can’t imagine wiring the same car twice haha.

[@abalke6612]

Why was only that one fuse causing trouble and not any of the others?

[@MatthewFinlay]

Oh I’m concerned about them too! This is just the highest amperage circuit on the panel so it’s the most likely to cause problems. They actually make retrofit ATO fuse panels for old Volvos which needs to be in my list

[@abalke6612]

@@MatthewFinlayyeah but why?

[@MatthewFinlay]

Oh, why! Corrosion, rust and corrosion - seen it once, seen it well… at least once.

[@giovannigarbarini]

Real ceramic continental style fuse bodies don't melt. But finding them is hard since Bussmann and Littelfuse which were the last brands to offer real ceramic torpedo fuses switched to the same cheap plastic bodies of the far east manufacturers, so kudos to you for the mod. As for me, I have procured enough NOS real ceramic Bussmann fuses for my VW beetle to last my lifetime.

[@420bmore7]

@@MatthewFinlay I have one. It's functionally great.not a blown fuse in the past year..BUT $150 and the fuses are not all lined up in the same orientation...feels more like a $70 part. Currently scouring the internet to try and figure how to modify the stock fuse panel for ATC fuses. Flag terminals and soldering solid copper seems like an option..if it all fits...