I had the same issue, I opened the actuator and the circuit was scratched off. So I bend the wipers veeery slightly sideways so they contact with the tracks (not the PCB underneath). Put some new plastic grease and everything back together and now everything works fine. The bottom one also had some jittering on startups and switch-offs. The tracks were not completely scratched off, but again I bent the wipers sideways, and also I rub a soft pencil over the tracks (they are actually made of graphite). The bottom one also now works fine.
I attempted to replace essentially the same part in my daughter-in-laws old Ford Focus a few years back. Don't remember the year...but similar in age to the legacy/outback here. Fell to pieces when removed. Plastics were super brittle. There were other issues so we just rigged it to adjust manually with a heavy wire, ha! She's driving a 2016 Outback limited now.
Amazing timing on this video, been looking for solutions to this noise this week and forums didn't have very good results. Looking forward to get rid of this noise!
I did the same replacement on my LGT, but also repaired one of the actuators by pulling the carbon track gear with one from an actuator of a newer model Subaru. The housing and gearing sets differ between the actuators but there are only 3 or so different types of primary drive gears with those carbon tracks. Can't order them individually, so pulling from a cheaper used actuator from a junkyard etc is the best bet.
I have an 09 Impreza sport that was stuck on cold. Turns out this model has a cable that runs to the blend door instead of an electric actuator. Found it unplugged after watching this video. Truly appreciate the content. Now i don't have to freeze while i drive.
What a perfect timing! Did exactly this job last week, ordered from Subaru both motors (air temp was out too) so I won't have to take everything apart again. The carbon on my motors look even worse than this one you took out. At least is not that bad of a job to replace them considering they last quite a long time until they wear out.
My son's 98 GMC truck had the blend door motor go out. It is in the middle of the dash at the floor behind a brace. Has two quarter inch hex head screws holding it on. One screw easy to get the other had the truck built around it. I had every bit, screwdriver, socket ,an wrench I had in the cab trying to get that screw. Finally got it out took almost an hour. I ended up drilling a half inch hole thru the dash and the brace so I could put that screw back in. It took five minutes to reinstall. The spot I drilled the hole in was covered up by a panel that covered it up.
This is very helpful and useful. Do you have a video covering the replacement of the driver side blend door actuator? It seems very difficult to reach.
Yes. I would like to see a vid on that as well. My driver side only blows cold and it’s now starting to get cold here in Bama so a fix is needed. I’ve got noise on the passenger side too but all modes work so I’m sure it’s gone crap out soon. I figured I just replace all 3 and call it a day.
I'd better go buy a lottery ticket. LOL! I was just looking up the mode motors for the HVACs in both my '10 and '11 Outbacks as they are both having issues with air delivery to the wrong selected location and up pops your video this morning. LOL! Thanks, brother.
I just replaced the same actuator as you did in the video. That back screw and top screw are a major pain like you said! I bought a similar driver and bit as you showed in the video too. It would have been a much harder job if you hadn't made this great tutorial so thanks a ton for posting this! To get the two hard screws back in I taped them to the driver bit so I could get them started. I have no idea how one could get them back in place without doing this.
Huhn! I have a 06 LGT that makes weird sounds sometimes after I shut it off - like mice running around behind the glovebox or something. Fortunately all of the 'zones' work, feet vs dash vs defrost. I sure wish the cabin air filter was easier to replace. When I get around to doing the cabin air filter again, I'll inspect the actuators and see if I can see them flaking out. thanks for the tips on removing the actuator, also. I would probably just re-sproing the sproinged spring thing tho.
My 06 lgt makes all these weird noises upon startup and shutoff and driving me insane but I can't swap to anything besides vent mode top lmao. I have an 02 outback wagon as well but it's given me far less troubles than my lgt.
Had to change that in my 06 outback XT only had defrost not hard to do. Also if you click the seat belt 20 times in 30 seconds with the key on that buzzer will go off.
Mr. Subaru. Love your videos. I am a little jealous as I'm in the northeast with a Gen 3 2.5i Limited with the Nav system. My question is this: what would make the keyless entry stop working? I unlocked the car with the fob and instead of two beeps and light flashes, I only got one of each and the doors unlocked. But that was it. Nothing after that. I replaced the receiver with an eBay unit but nothing. I tried reprogramming the key code and also nothing. I can lock the doors from the inside switch and the car beeps once when the door closes. I hope it's not the BCM. I can't find any electrical troubleshooting guides online. Thanks.
I have a 2005 Outback XT manual limited and I don’t have any display to my radio or a/c. Before I lost control it blew hot air on the driver side and cold air on the passenger side. I don’t know how to get my power back I tried cleaning the grounds and pulled them up. Checked the solder joints and they are good. I probably need a new blend door actuator.
I'd love to meet up with you. I have a 2018 WRX that's having similar HVAC clicking noises. I think in two different places. I've already had to remove the entire dash for other work. I have no issues pulling it again, but I'm not that well versed in fixing blend door or actuators. Good informative video.
Yup, I got the same rattling noise on my ‘05 OBXT as well.. but my problem is bigger, seems to be the heater core on my car since the inlet coolant hose came clamped off.
While you are working on the car, have heavy stuff on the passenger side seat, or just trying to get a nap. There is an amazing item made by a company called "Tickit", that you simply insert in the seat belt retainer. I have one, they are not only easy to use, they are cheap, and made in Florida!
All you have to do on a Subaru is turn the key on click the seat belt in and out 20 times in 30 seconds then shut the key off turn it back on and the buzzer will stop.
I can see I have full vent mode actuation . For good measure I drilled small hole n hit with contact cleaner n lube but STILL the foot flow is rubbish. The forums agree.
Thanks for this video. I’ve seen other videos where it shows the blower motor resistor back there but I can’t find it in my 2008 legacy gt. Any idea where that thing is?? Been driving me crazy!!
Hey, thank you so much for all of the information period I recently acquired a 2001 outback that has turned into somewhat of a money pit period have you done a video on the blender actuators for a 2001?
I have I have a question , sounds like a fan kicking on and off , in the dash.. but blower is off. No lights or anything... antifreeze was done 20,000 or so ago at dealer when the replaced short block for oil burning. Thanks
Ayyy!!~ Cowabunga!! What a P in the A! I've got this blend door clicking driving me nutz. I'm handy and adventurous but WOW that looks like an ordeal just to GET TO IT! Oooof.
Yeah my 13 is starting to make noise oddly enough it’s the blend door actuator when I have it in the front vent mode only so I’m wondering if I can disconnect my TCU Computer out of the way and reach my hand up in there and either lube it or maybe have to replace it but….🙄🙄🙄
You can disable the very annoying seat belt chime! Key to accessory, insert and remove drivers seatbelt 20 times within 30 seconds. Key off. Infinitely better Subaru.
Oh God, that annoying seatbelt chime! 🤦🏻♂️But doesn’t it activate again after turning off the car? I thought it was better to disconnect the switch under the seat?
Bought my 06 back in ‘15, no chime on P side. Redid the stereo setup and it started beeping. Thought I unknowingly fixed and issue but actually re-engaged the chime 🙄
Subaru uses better plastic at least they used to.I have two of them,a97 legacy gt and a97 outback sport.Everything works in both of them and the only plastic that had broke is the window switch on driver side.I also have a03 chevy venture van and stuff don't workand buttons are broke and even the tail lights melted in the sockets.
60mph on the highway lol? We got AWD all the time and its heavy! so not exactly fuel efficient. At least for older models. Maintenance and clean filters can help too. Don't neglect tires! The newer ones with CVT(love it or hate it) are more fuel efficient. Apparently the 21' Impreza can get 36 highway mpg so good job on that Subaru 👍
Also worth noting, if the actuators in the driver side start to go out in this model Legacy and you lose the hot/cold blend function, you're in for an absolute nightmare trying to get to them. You basically have to pull the entire dash apart. You got any tips for accessing those?
Ok so I have the same problem. Hot driver cold passenger but I don't have dule climent control. All the vent changes spots just fine the temp changes on driver but just cold on passenger it's an 05 the heat blend sounds and feels manual I'm at a loss any help would be great
Just came upon this video as am trying to figure out this weird intermittent noise in my dash. Could be this but am wondering if it’s my cd changer as well. Driving me crazy!!!
Does anyone know where the heater control motor is on a single climate control Subaru is? I know on a dual climate control car there's one on each side but I've only got a single control system. cheers
I noticed, especially with heat during the winter, my cabin fan is.....squeaky? Grindy? Unbalanced? Just the slightest "wrabble". I essentially had to use fan setting 2 and earplugs (mostly for road noise with the winter tires, but also because I have very good hearing and the fan's unbalanced-ness drove me mad). Can you grease/oil/graphite the blower fan axle?
Great video. At 6 min in to the right of the actuators there is a green plug is that the recirculate servo? if not can you point it out in that picture? Thanks
I know this is old but any chance you have a video or know any tips on how to change the front one, my moms car definitely has a problem with both, i visibly saw the passenger side actuator messing up while i had the box out for cabin filter job. Going to change the passenger for her and have a feeling ill have to change the driver side as well
Does anyone have the part number for that? Wife's 05GT is having that issue, and yeah I've removed dash from 09 and the 05 and filter much easier on mine.
Hi .. what do you think the problem would be if it’s blowing cold on passenger side and blowing a little warm on driver’s side?? the AC compressor doesn’t cut off as well on hot days but does on night time cold days.. car is 2015 WRX
The issue must have evolved in the newer models. Lol. My 17 Outback sometimes lets out a loud crack from behind the dash on the passenger side when the heat or AC comes on or goes off. Everything works fine so idk what's going on back there.
Have you done the actuator on the driver side before? My dad's 06 OBXT doesn't get any heat out of the vent on the left side of the steering wheel. The passenger side actuators look easier than I imagined at least.
Hey, I feel you about taking that actuator off 😅... I'm from Mexico, so it's hard to get OEM parts here. I just made a video to that same issue. Of you still have the old actuator you can check if has the same problem that the one I repair.
What is the part number? I gave my dealer the numbers stamped on it and they say the numbers are no good. Also does it come with the white part attached? The top and bottom servo on my legacy are twitching and drawing power killing may battery.
Good video. Got the actuator out. I left the frame with the back screw still attached but loose and detached the actuator itself from the frame. How do you know the actuator arm is in the right place on re-assembly? I know, I should have marked it before disassembly but is there a way to align it? I assumed there would be a key to line it up. Will probably buy a new one but again how do you know in which position it's in with regards to the flap in the car (floor, dash etc) before fitting? . Cheers.
OK so I looked at a picture of the same actuator online (with gear attached). Put the actuator together again by lining up the same as the image and refitted to see if it worked after a clean up of the contacts etc.. and by jiminy it's moving through the modes without a sound. Air is moving in all the right places and no more startup buzz. It's a 2005 Outback so I'm going to try that without shelling out for a new/secondhand one. If it goes again I know what to do... thanks to Mister Subaru.
I'm having a similar but different problem with my 07 outback. I constantly get a loudish electrical buzz from the radio/clock area above. Still there even when my radio is turned off. Any ideas on what it could be?
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I have same issue. Crazy like a CD is being killed inside the radio. Not very often but so annoying
Any chance you have a party number for that mode actuator? Called the dealer and they want 150 and would not provide me the part number. These things are impossible to find
Make sure you are getting the right part number for your application, each motor has a different part # and manual & auto have different part #s My 06 2.5i auto part number ends with 26A
Hmmm, mine plays up from time to time, supposed to be cold but clearly isn't, might check this out thanks. Is there something common in these that rattles behind the dash? Mine is RHD, and its coming from the center-left, kinda glove-box area. Its annoying as hell, constant rattle.
My 09 legacy 3.0r started that rattle dash around 130K miles lol. It seems to start or be worse during cold weather.. It's really annoying but I guess music drowns it out lol. I will however be replacing the blend door actuator thanks to this video.
It would be interesting to know if the screech noise at startup was related to the dirty filter! I’ve experienced strange noises and when servicing the filter I found some leaves hitting the fan blades. BTW that was quite the dirty filter. Another fine Mr.Subaru video.
This was my issue and I've replaced the actuator that controls the mode. It was very difficult to reach. It's very tight confines and hard to reach the upper and back screws. I used a slender right angle attachment (DeWALT) with a 2.5 inch bit. The right angle adapter for my Milwaukee installation driver was too big to fit in the space. I was able to keep adequate pressure against the screw head while using the drill. I'm not really sure about this part, but I used Super Lube Silicone Grease with Syncolon where the plastic arm contacts the plastic controls. PBK was printed on the arm and I assumed it indicated the type of plastic and is compatible.
@@Allen-bm6tz Which year legacy do you have? How did you identify which actuator on the driver side that it was? Did you use a borescope or were you able to hear the clicking noise coming directly from the affected unit?
@@expatcrypto I have a 2006. I could see it twitching. Once you have a clear view of the actuators, you can see it twitching (which is the sound you hear).
I've been tolerating this noise for years. It's about the time to fix it. Appreciate for this video.
I had the same issue, I opened the actuator and the circuit was scratched off. So I bend the wipers veeery slightly sideways so they contact with the tracks (not the PCB underneath). Put some new plastic grease and everything back together and now everything works fine.
The bottom one also had some jittering on startups and switch-offs. The tracks were not completely scratched off, but again I bent the wipers sideways, and also I rub a soft pencil over the tracks (they are actually made of graphite). The bottom one also now works fine.
I attempted to replace essentially the same part in my daughter-in-laws old Ford Focus a few years back. Don't remember the year...but similar in age to the legacy/outback here. Fell to pieces when removed. Plastics were super brittle. There were other issues so we just rigged it to adjust manually with a heavy wire, ha! She's driving a 2016 Outback limited now.
Amazing timing on this video, been looking for solutions to this noise this week and forums didn't have very good results. Looking forward to get rid of this noise!
I did the same replacement on my LGT, but also repaired one of the actuators by pulling the carbon track gear with one from an actuator of a newer model Subaru. The housing and gearing sets differ between the actuators but there are only 3 or so different types of primary drive gears with those carbon tracks. Can't order them individually, so pulling from a cheaper used actuator from a junkyard etc is the best bet.
I have an 09 Impreza sport that was stuck on cold. Turns out this model has a cable that runs to the blend door instead of an electric actuator. Found it unplugged after watching this video. Truly appreciate the content. Now i don't have to freeze while i drive.
What a perfect timing! Did exactly this job last week, ordered from Subaru both motors (air temp was out too) so I won't have to take everything apart again. The carbon on my motors look even worse than this one you took out. At least is not that bad of a job to replace them considering they last quite a long time until they wear out.
My son's 98 GMC truck had the blend door motor go out. It is in the middle of the dash at the floor behind a brace. Has two quarter inch hex head screws holding it on. One screw easy to get the other had the truck built around it. I had every bit, screwdriver, socket ,an wrench I had in the cab trying to get that screw. Finally got it out took almost an hour. I ended up drilling a half inch hole thru the dash and the brace so I could put that screw back in. It took five minutes to reinstall. The spot I drilled the hole in was covered up by a panel that covered it up.
I have an 05 outback. I was the first one to change the cabin filter.
My fathers '05 OB XT is showing the growing sound while is still functioning. I remember this video so will be useful.
Please make a video on fixing the actuators on the 10-14 Outback. The little clicking noises when I shut off the car, are driving me bananas.
Plus one on that I got that same issue on my 2014 OB
The center actuator
Same on mine but I just ignore it and glad this video is out there so I know it is nothing serious.
You are amazing! Been watching your videos for quite some time and I appreciate every release. Thank you!
This is very helpful and useful. Do you have a video covering the replacement of the driver side blend door actuator? It seems very difficult to reach.
Yes. I would like to see a vid on that as well. My driver side only blows cold and it’s now starting to get cold here in Bama so a fix is needed. I’ve got noise on the passenger side too but all modes work so I’m sure it’s gone crap out soon. I figured I just replace all 3 and call it a day.
I'd better go buy a lottery ticket. LOL! I was just looking up the mode motors for the HVACs in both my '10 and '11 Outbacks as they are both having issues with air delivery to the wrong selected location and up pops your video this morning. LOL! Thanks, brother.
Jebus...! The interior is 100-fold cleaner than my 2014... 👀✔️💪🏼
I just replaced the same actuator as you did in the video. That back screw and top screw are a major pain like you said! I bought a similar driver and bit as you showed in the video too. It would have been a much harder job if you hadn't made this great tutorial so thanks a ton for posting this!
To get the two hard screws back in I taped them to the driver bit so I could get them started. I have no idea how one could get them back in place without doing this.
2011 Legacy: I have the same issue. Clicking sound, but behind the drivers side dash... Same sound as this actuator made...
Thanks mate I have 2010 outback with the similar issue, and now at least I know want to look for😉
Great video. I need to do this with my 2005 OBXT as I really notice the mode actuator "dance" after turning the car off.
Huhn! I have a 06 LGT that makes weird sounds sometimes after I shut it off - like mice running around behind the glovebox or something. Fortunately all of the 'zones' work, feet vs dash vs defrost. I sure wish the cabin air filter was easier to replace.
When I get around to doing the cabin air filter again, I'll inspect the actuators and see if I can see them flaking out. thanks for the tips on removing the actuator, also. I would probably just re-sproing the sproinged spring thing tho.
My 06 lgt makes all these weird noises upon startup and shutoff and driving me insane but I can't swap to anything besides vent mode top lmao. I have an 02 outback wagon as well but it's given me far less troubles than my lgt.
Dude it's such a pain to get it off. I'm glad I put in a new one lol.
What about the big squeal during a cold start? Hope you do that in the next video!
Good to know this service doesn’t require the whole dash to be removed.. phew
Had to change that in my 06 outback XT only had defrost not hard to do. Also if you click the seat belt 20 times in 30 seconds with the key on that buzzer will go off.
For both driver and passngr or do I have to do for both? Thanks
Mr. Subaru. Love your videos. I am a little jealous as I'm in the northeast with a Gen 3 2.5i Limited with the Nav system. My question is this: what would make the keyless entry stop working? I unlocked the car with the fob and instead of two beeps and light flashes, I only got one of each and the doors unlocked. But that was it. Nothing after that. I replaced the receiver with an eBay unit but nothing. I tried reprogramming the key code and also nothing. I can lock the doors from the inside switch and the car beeps once when the door closes. I hope it's not the BCM. I can't find any electrical troubleshooting guides online. Thanks.
Today I do this job. Thanks for the tutorial.
Thanks for the video. I have had a clicking noise like this on my 2010 outback. My controls and everything works fine so no bother but good to know.
I have a 2005 Outback XT manual limited and I don’t have any display to my radio or a/c. Before I lost control it blew hot air on the driver side and cold air on the passenger side.
I don’t know how to get my power back I tried cleaning the grounds and pulled them up. Checked the solder joints and they are good. I probably need a new blend door actuator.
I'd love to meet up with you. I have a 2018 WRX that's having similar HVAC clicking noises. I think in two different places. I've already had to remove the entire dash for other work. I have no issues pulling it again, but I'm not that well versed in fixing blend door or actuators. Good informative video.
Perfect timing. Gonna need to check mine in a few weeks.
Thank you! The noise was driving me nuts!
Yup, I got the same rattling noise on my ‘05 OBXT as well.. but my problem is bigger, seems to be the heater core on my car since the inlet coolant hose came clamped off.
I replaced the servo unit itself, kept the old bracket because the back screw is a PITA to take out.
While you are working on the car, have heavy stuff on the passenger side seat, or just trying to get a nap. There is an amazing item made by a company called "Tickit", that you simply insert in the seat belt retainer. I have one, they are not only easy to use, they are cheap, and made in Florida!
All you have to do on a Subaru is turn the key on click the seat belt in and out 20 times in 30 seconds then shut the key off turn it back on and the buzzer will stop.
@@johnmastr7901 would this work on passenger seat belt alarm that goes off even when nothing is in seat. I buckle it up and it shuts up.
I can see I have full vent mode actuation . For good measure I drilled small hole n hit with contact cleaner n lube but STILL the foot flow is rubbish. The forums agree.
Thanks for this video. I’ve seen other videos where it shows the blower motor resistor back there but I can’t find it in my 2008 legacy gt. Any idea where that thing is?? Been driving me crazy!!
I wonder if Dielectric Grease would extend the life of one of these worn actuators?
Hey, thank you so much for all of the information period I recently acquired a 2001 outback that has turned into somewhat of a money pit period have you done a video on the blender actuators for a 2001?
Welp, this looks MUCH easier than the actuators in the 06-13 Chevy Impala/Monte Carlos... acrually ANY GM...
This part has been discontinued for my 2001 Outback. I guess I’m going to try repairing
I have I have a question , sounds like a fan kicking on and off , in the dash.. but blower is off. No lights or anything... antifreeze was done 20,000 or so ago at dealer when the replaced short block for oil burning. Thanks
Ayyy!!~ Cowabunga!! What a P in the A! I've got this blend door clicking driving me nutz. I'm handy and adventurous but WOW that looks like an ordeal just to GET TO IT! Oooof.
Yeah my 13 is starting to make noise oddly enough it’s the blend door actuator when I have it in the front vent mode only so I’m wondering if I can disconnect my TCU Computer out of the way and reach my hand up in there and either lube it or maybe have to replace it but….🙄🙄🙄
You can disable the very annoying seat belt chime! Key to accessory, insert and remove drivers seatbelt 20 times within 30 seconds. Key off. Infinitely better Subaru.
Oh God, that annoying seatbelt chime! 🤦🏻♂️But doesn’t it activate again after turning off the car? I thought it was better to disconnect the switch under the seat?
@@Mike_44 Nope, it only activates again if you disconnect the battery
Bought my 06 back in ‘15, no chime on P side. Redid the stereo setup and it started beeping. Thought I unknowingly fixed and issue but actually re-engaged the chime 🙄
In the video where would the control be for the recirculate air function? thanks
Bending out the one contact fixes it, but it was in a sealed enclosure... why would it be like that? Replace it.
Subaru uses better plastic at least they used to.I have two of them,a97 legacy gt and a97 outback sport.Everything works in both of them and the only plastic that had broke is the window switch on driver side.I also have a03 chevy venture van and stuff don't workand buttons are broke and even the tail lights melted in the sockets.
Can you do a video on gasoline prices rising and showing how to make your Subie more fuel efficient? Thank you
At these insane prices of fuel the best way to save money is not to drive
Make sure you have good plugs and air filter and unfortunately drive slower.
@@johnmastr7901 won’t have an issue with slow driving
60mph on the highway lol? We got AWD all the time and its heavy! so not exactly fuel efficient. At least for older models. Maintenance and clean filters can help too. Don't neglect tires! The newer ones with CVT(love it or hate it) are more fuel efficient. Apparently the 21' Impreza can get 36 highway mpg so good job on that Subaru 👍
Anyone have a source for the small screws n plugs etc ? They strip when backed off.
Any chance you'll be doing this repair on your BRZ any time soon? 😅 can't seem to find any videos for this on a BRZ
Also worth noting, if the actuators in the driver side start to go out in this model Legacy and you lose the hot/cold blend function, you're in for an absolute nightmare trying to get to them. You basically have to pull the entire dash apart. You got any tips for accessing those?
i think this happened to me...
Pray
Is there supposed to a greasy substance on the copper feelers and on large cog wheel where it contacts?
I just googled this yesterday lmao damn good looks
Ok so I have the same problem. Hot driver cold passenger but I don't have dule climent control. All the vent changes spots just fine the temp changes on driver but just cold on passenger it's an 05 the heat blend sounds and feels manual I'm at a loss any help would be great
Just came upon this video as am trying to figure out this weird intermittent noise in my dash. Could be this but am wondering if it’s my cd changer as well. Driving me crazy!!!
Does anyone know where the heater control motor is on a single climate control Subaru is? I know on a dual climate control car there's one on each side but I've only got a single control system. cheers
I noticed, especially with heat during the winter, my cabin fan is.....squeaky? Grindy? Unbalanced? Just the slightest "wrabble". I essentially had to use fan setting 2 and earplugs (mostly for road noise with the winter tires, but also because I have very good hearing and the fan's unbalanced-ness drove me mad). Can you grease/oil/graphite the blower fan axle?
Great video. At 6 min in to the right of the actuators there is a green plug is that the recirculate servo? if not can you point it out in that picture? Thanks
Alright so was that the whining noise issue as well?
I know this is old but any chance you have a video or know any tips on how to change the front one, my moms car definitely has a problem with both, i visibly saw the passenger side actuator messing up while i had the box out for cabin filter job. Going to change the passenger for her and have a feeling ill have to change the driver side as well
Does anyone have the part number for that? Wife's 05GT is having that issue, and yeah I've removed dash from 09 and the 05 and filter much easier on mine.
Hi .. what do you think the problem would be if it’s blowing cold on passenger side and blowing a little warm on driver’s side?? the AC compressor doesn’t cut off as well on hot days but does on night time cold days.. car is 2015 WRX
The issue must have evolved in the newer models. Lol. My 17 Outback sometimes lets out a loud crack from behind the dash on the passenger side when the heat or AC comes on or goes off. Everything works fine so idk what's going on back there.
Have you done the actuator on the driver side before? My dad's 06 OBXT doesn't get any heat out of the vent on the left side of the steering wheel. The passenger side actuators look easier than I imagined at least.
I have to fix my 2011 Mode door actuator on my OB drivers side area at the very top requires complete dash removal :(
Hey, I feel you about taking that actuator off 😅...
I'm from Mexico, so it's hard to get OEM parts here.
I just made a video to that same issue. Of you still have the old actuator you can check if has the same problem that the one I repair.
ua-cam.com/video/hASl_g6bnAU/v-deo.html
In my case it's the little pinion that was lossen
Thank you for the Video.
Nice video, on the drivers side do you need to remove many parts to access it?
How about the drivers side actuator?
What is the part number? I gave my dealer the numbers stamped on it and they say the numbers are no good. Also does it come with the white part attached? The top and bottom servo on my legacy are twitching and drawing power killing may battery.
Any suggestions on a 2005 forester why there is no heat coming outta the two vents above the radio but all the other vent settings work fine
Good video. Got the actuator out. I left the frame with the back screw still attached but loose and detached the actuator itself from the frame. How do you know the actuator arm is in the right place on re-assembly? I know, I should have marked it before disassembly but is there a way to align it? I assumed there would be a key to line it up. Will probably buy a new one but again how do you know in which position it's in with regards to the flap in the car (floor, dash etc) before fitting? . Cheers.
OK so I looked at a picture of the same actuator online (with gear attached). Put the actuator together again by lining up the same as the image and refitted to see if it worked after a clean up of the contacts etc.. and by jiminy it's moving through the modes without a sound. Air is moving in all the right places and no more startup buzz. It's a 2005 Outback so I'm going to try that without shelling out for a new/secondhand one. If it goes again I know what to do... thanks to Mister Subaru.
You turn the key to the on mode without starting and it resets it automatically to the right position. Then remove before proceeding
Thanks
Very good video I learned a lot thank you!
Thank you. You get a like
Thank you the video is very helpful!
I'm having a similar but different problem with my 07 outback. I constantly get a loudish electrical buzz from the radio/clock area above. Still there even when my radio is turned off. Any ideas on what it could be?
I have same issue. Crazy like a CD is being killed inside the radio. Not very often but so annoying
Any chance you know what the part number for the actuator that regulates where the air goes?
Can you please write e the name of the parts we want to replace in order to fix this?
Thanks for the video! I'm having the same issue on my 2010 LGT.
Might be the blend door on mine
Does this help get rid of the popcorn popping noise? Usually after shutdown, Thanks
Yes
do you have the mode actuator part number ?
Useful!
Good!
Any chance you have a party number for that mode actuator? Called the dealer and they want 150 and would not provide me the part number. These things are impossible to find
72131AG24A
Make sure you are getting the right part number for your application, each motor has a different part # and manual & auto have different part #s
My 06 2.5i auto part number ends with 26A
Hmmm, mine plays up from time to time, supposed to be cold but clearly isn't, might check this out thanks.
Is there something common in these that rattles behind the dash? Mine is RHD, and its coming from the center-left, kinda glove-box area. Its annoying as hell, constant rattle.
My 09 legacy 3.0r started that rattle dash around 130K miles lol. It seems to start or be worse during cold weather.. It's really annoying but I guess music drowns it out lol. I will however be replacing the blend door actuator thanks to this video.
Will you do a video on the screeching noise upon cold start?
I couldn't dublicate the concern on that one...
It would be interesting to know if the screech noise at startup was related to the dirty filter! I’ve experienced strange noises and when servicing the filter I found some leaves hitting the fan blades. BTW that was quite the dirty filter. Another fine Mr.Subaru video.
Mine sounds like a woodpecker at 155k miles. 18 forester.
Lol that filter!
Will you be doing something on the announced elimination of combustion WRX STI?
I'm trying... Quickly devolves into an angry rant.
Clean Legacy for almost 200k
I'll need to check mine out. It burbles after I shut off the car.
This was my issue and I've replaced the actuator that controls the mode. It was very difficult to reach. It's very tight confines and hard to reach the upper and back screws. I used a slender right angle attachment (DeWALT) with a 2.5 inch bit. The right angle adapter for my Milwaukee installation driver was too big to fit in the space. I was able to keep adequate pressure against the screw head while using the drill. I'm not really sure about this part, but I used Super Lube Silicone Grease with Syncolon where the plastic arm contacts the plastic controls. PBK was printed on the arm and I assumed it indicated the type of plastic and is compatible.
@@Allen-bm6tz Which year legacy do you have? How did you identify which actuator on the driver side that it was? Did you use a borescope or were you able to hear the clicking noise coming directly from the affected unit?
@@expatcrypto I have a 2006. I could see it twitching. Once you have a clear view of the actuators, you can see it twitching (which is the sound you hear).
@@Allen-bm6tz thanks!
Alguien tiene el número de la pieza o donde comprar?