U r amazing thank you thank you!! Shop wanted $900 to replace. $15 in OEM o rings, recharged, FiXED! Alaska in the cab! U r a philanthropist. God bless you sir.
MrSubaru indeed, a well deserved title. I know this is an older video, but thank you once again for your time and dedication on all your videos which are extremely helpful and save us $$. Really appreciate it.
I just wanted to add that on my '05 LL Bean Outback H6 the a/c was acting up. At initial turn on it blew cold.. After a few minutes the compressor stopped. The relay was no longer providing power to the compressor. Mechanic jumped the relay and the compressor came on. This caused the him to scratch his head a bit. He then remembered a Hyndai that did this about 15 years ago. Never saw it on a Subaru. So he worked back wards to a temperature sensor, not the engine temp sensor that displays on the dash. The offending sensor, as I was told by the office, resides near the thermostat and it provides info to the computer which provides the signal to the relay that turns on the compressor. Apparently it was sending an erroneous reading telling the computer the coolant temp was over 400 degrees according to the diagnostics. The computer then tells the a/c relay to stop running the compressor to remove a load from the engine. I've read numerous accounts in forums about a/c compressors not turning on after the car warms up. None ever mentioned this sensor. Replaced the sensor and all was right with the world. Keep that in your back pocket.
Ok, this was the one I was looking for. 2010 Forester XT; clutch adjusted to proper air gap; fresh coolant recharge; AC *blasts* for 10-15 min, then compressor stops engaging, fan blows only warm air; if I let the car sit at idle in the shade, it'll keep the AC cranking, but once I start to load the engine, it immediately cuts out. Your suggestion (faulty temp sensor) would explain this behavior. Now all I have to do if find the offending sensor and replace it - fingers crossed! If anyone has done this, I'd love to know more.
System rechareg - no change. Replaced the clutch - no change. Took to mechanic who finally found a frayed wire after the fuse box and before the compressor coil relay. Mended that wire, and we're back in business... had to pay for 5hrs of labor for chasing electrical gremlins, though... darn gremlins...
@12:40 cabin air filter! Check this first! Clogged filter can cause the compressor to short cycle due to the evaporator temperature sensor shutting it down as the evaporator freezes from no air flow to warm it up. Short cycling can be caused by high or low refrigerate pressure (overcharge or undercharge, clogged condenser, etc.), but just the cabin filter being clogged can cause it too. It's ez to check first. Also, the compressor clutch engagement gets louder as that gap increases. If that engagement clunk is getting loud it's probably time to take a shim out. The clutch face comes off with jacking screws and the shims are in the center bore around the center bolt.
Really well presented information. Just had my 2014 forester ac replaced under extended warranty and had intermittent issues immediately. I checked the cabin filter after seeing this video and it was completely jammed up with dirt/dust, so the air volume and cooling issues under high fan pressure, but not low, now make total sense. Hopefully a new one does the trick. Thank you!
my 2016 forester was producing SNOW ! at one point, found out the moisture vent was located under the front wheel arch and had blocked up going through fords and mud in winter....who on earth in Japan decided to locate it in such a place ! As was repaired twice in 5 years !
I've had the same issue on every Subaru I've owned - '97 Outback Sport, 2003 Forrester, 2006 Outback Sport, and 2008 Outback. Easy fix if you can ID the problem.
Mr Subaru saves the day! 2011 Subaru outback 3.6L I'm in Arizona and now that the heat's coming on I thought I was just low on Freon because my AC would start off cold and then start blowing warm. I always like to see what Mr Subaru says about any procedures before I do them on my own. I have a mechanical background but don't work on cars for a living anymore. I would have chased my tail around a little bit on this one only to discover it was the simplest possible problem. I had a clogged cabin filter. Thanks to Mr Subaru I was able to start off with the simplest solution and got lucky. 👍
Thanks for sharing your info. Great video. At about 7:50 and 9:45 mention is made of using the diagnostic mode to check the electrical function of the clutch. We repaired the a/c on an '04 Forrester today, and learned that the system needs to have enough charge to observe the clutch operating, even in diagnostic mode. It didn't take long to learn that the low pressure sensor was locking out the compressor clutch in diagnostic mode, too. I simply ran a jumper from plus 12v to the compressor directly, to discern the air gap was fine, while engine not running, and quickly. In our case, the suspect two o-rings at the compressor were the core issue. Replaced them, evac'ed the system and recharged to exact volume of refrigerant, and it works like a champ now. We will remember to check/replace the cabin air filter too.
Hey there Whitney. I just wrote a question, then saw yours from a year ago. So you are saying that the green plug test is still dependent upon having enough pressure to engage the pressure sensor? I actually did the same thing as you, hotwired from the + of the battery to the clutch braided wire, and it had engaged fine. So maybe all I need is to replace O rings (and maybe the Schraders while at it), vacuum the system, and then fill it up?
@@TheCaribeso Correct, if there is not enough refrigerant pressure to enable the compressor, even in diagnostic mode, the compressor clutch will not engage. It is a safety to prevent system damage. Therefore I did a quick jumper test to ensure compressor clutch engagement. Once I saw clutch engage, I determined system was just out of refrigerant (leak at orings). Basically I wanted to eliminate electrical issues, before repairing, evacuating and re-charging the system.
@@whitneydesignlabs8738 thank you! once i realized that probably all i needed were O rings and evacuation, i brought it to a shop who finished the job for a reasonable price. Keep up the great videos!
. Very practical and obviously coming from someone with a lot of experience in the field. My 99 Legacy outback has a severe Freon leak and now I will know where to turn my attention. Thanks so much
A few questions / ideas for future videos: 1. Does the Crosstrek burn any oil? 2. How is the Crosstrek doing on the 5W-30 oil? It is running higher oil pressure? Do you recommend running these engines on 5W-30 vs. the factory fill 0W-20? 3. How useful are low cost blue tooth / phone app scan tools such as Blue driver on a Subaru? Thanks for helping us keep out Subaru's going!
Here are my anectdotes of your questions: 1. Highly variable. I know people with my engine that burn a quart every 1k miles, while I burn like .5 quart over 6,000 miles. 2. I live in Raleigh NC, run 5w-30, it's fine. No noises or anything. That said even on the highway today in 95 degree heat it was only at 207 for the oil temp. Not crazy hot. 3. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this and the app "ActiveOBD" for Android are great. You get coolant/oil/CVT/inlet air/intact tract/cat temps, timing, battery voltage, and a good amount of code scanning ability.
Instead of doing your research via youtube comments you should check out Subaru forums like nasioc. These are common questions and you'll find much more reliable answers than what you'll find in the comment section of an A/C diagnostic video.
The FB20D engines are very reliable! Especially the 2014 to 2017 model years because the it still used good ol port-fuel injection rather than direct-fuel injection. If you can find one with a MANUAL transmission they will last longer than the CVT... Also make sure recalls have been caught up to date. The FB20D in the Impreza and Crosstreks had valve-spring recalls best lookup via vin to see which models affected
Amazing timing, this video popping up in my feed just a day after I had to deal with your first problem - compressor o-rings - in my 2017 Forester with about 93,000 miles.
I have to say for me personally, my Subaru A/C systems have served me very well compared to American made systems. Thanks for this “heads up” video Mr. Subaru. Always a great learning experience!
knowing about the existence of the test connectors is a marvelous resource. While the compressor on my 2009 Forester just hit 180,000 miles and is getting a bit long in the tooth, I at least know I can test the air gap, which is extremely valuable knowledge.
You are a Subaru legend! Thank you for the superb video. On my '04 Outback, the A/C blows fine for about 15 minutes and then stops blowing cold air, just warm air comes on. The fan comes on but no A/C. If I turn off the car for a few minutes and then start it back, the A/C blows again for a few minutes and then off. This occurs on hot days predominantly. I have replaced the A/C clutch but the issue continues. I suspect the revolution sensor harness is bad.
I'm having the same issue, these pass few days, then my car over heated, i added some coolant to the radiator and drove it around, so far the AC is working and the engine didn't over heat.
@@railfanatic1416 I have been unable to figure out the cause. Some posts say it could be the revolution sensor, but you can't buy that part without the AC compressor. I will take the car to a shop and let them diagnose it. The funny thing is that when it blows cold air, it blows well for 10-12 minutes which tells me it may not be a freon issue. Something is not making contact to trigger the AC after 10 minutes because the AC fan kicks in just like when AC is blowing, but the compressor does not engage. In my case, leaving the fan on and turning off the AC for 10-15 minutes works sometimes, but not always. Many times, the AC does not start if the car is hot, even if the car is turned off for more than 30 minutes. Bizarre.
Thank you. You rock. My husband and I are driving from Arizona to Washington State. Our air quit working amd it is hot!! We are travveling at night to avoid the excessive heat. I pulled up your video to trouble shoot . We figured it out. .There is nothing around for miles nor open. Thanks again. I love youtube.🔥🥶🤣
Found this in my search for my AC not blowing cold. Bought the 2015 WRX with five miles on it and now it has 93k! Still runs great and pulls hard but now can't have cold air like it used to have. It just happened one day and before that it was blowing cold. Back to the research it goes... Thanks for posting Subie Subie videos as well. I watch them from time to time randomly
@@AhhitzSammy same issue with my 2016 STI. Did you find a solution? My compressor has made noise since I bought it 2 years ago and kept me cool enough when it was 115 degrees last summer in Portland, but this year it’s barely adequate at 83 degrees out.
I've been hunting for an intermittent issue with my 2014 Crosstrek Hybrid AC. 120k miles. Sometimes it blows cold, but seems randomly get stop, and then come back again. Yes it happens in EV mode as expected, but this issue is during normal driving conditions. The shop can't figure it out
@@MrSubaru1387 He literally says "This one is alright, doesn't do well in traffic or on sunny days. The 98 Forester would blast chill you on max." Hahaha. I've never daily driven one newer than 04.
I actually walked away from an 06 specifically due to the weak AC. This 06 had a brand new compressor done by the dealer. Still felt way weaker than the 98 i wound up buying.
Thanks so much! I have an 04 LL Bean and the AC system has been giving me trouble. Had it charged, oiled, o rings replaced and now it blows cold, but will quit after about 15 minutes. Always comes back on start. I just checked the compressor clutch action with the test plugs, it didn’t look nearly as close. Gonna doublecheck once I get some feeler gauges. Cheers!
@Evangeline Podolski Nice! I'm glad you commented, I forgot to update as is usual with car work. That's all it took for me too, plus setting it to spec with my feelers.
Common Sense AC trouble shooting. I like it. People don't realize the Car AC/Heating system is not much different than their home AC/Heating system. Most people don't take care of their Home AC/Heating either LOL.
I have a little problem with AC on my 2.0i Legacy 2003, since a few weeks ago there is a little leak of water near the passenger wheel (above the catalyst more or less) and a beautiful metallic noise when AC is turned on. At the begining I thought that the water could be condensation but really I don't know. I' ve replaced the cabin filter with no results. Thank you for all your videos @MrSubaru1387 !! Regards from Spain!!
I watched this video a few weeks ago just to learn. Just got my 2023 crosstrek 6mt. Took a look under the hood and to my surprise the ac compressor is variable stroke (so no clutch) and the sticker on the side says Denso (well I'll be). They also switched to R1234YF Thanks for the awesome videos!
R1234yf has very similar properties to R134a, and while it is not technically legal to retrofit to use the older refrigerant, a LOT of folks do change them over due to the high cost of R123yf, which is around 10x the cost of R134a. What is the difference? The new stuff has a lower global warming potential, and to discourage switching to the cheaper stuff they use a different hose fitting. And capitalism once again comes to the rescue of your bank account with inexpensive adapter hoses and fittings.
The A/C system on my 2003 UK STi used to keep leaking refrigerant and so I had to keep buying refrigerant refill bottles and topping pressure up - they were not cheap at €60 a bottle... and then the pressure only lasted a few months before it leaked out again. Got sick of it, so went to a professional A/C repair garage - they checked entire A/C system for leaks (he went around with some sort of light) and said it was the radiator that was the cause. So he replaced the radiator in the car - showed me old radiator and using light could see large patches of fluorescent stains on parts of radiator where it was leaking out. I asked could there be other parts leaking too and he said there were not any he could see. Cost me over €400 to do the job. So A/C works fine now. Haven't checked pressure since then though - hope its not leaking out of those O-rings you mentioned - he never said anything about that, so no idea if they replaced those too. They had awful job trying to get radiator bolts out too - had to cut them out - they were glued down. Anyway no way i could replace those without losing the pressure in system again - it is very high Bar pressure in there. They never mentioned or fixed the wobbly compressor clutch though.. it still works fine (apart from squeel at startup) so maybe they didn't notice it.
Kudos to you for your excellent descriptive vocabulary! I could just listen to the audio track and know what and where you are pointing to. (vs. other vids that point and say 'this thingy' or 'this here'. (My rant is done.)
I have experienced that 05-09 AC. It was one of the main reasons i got rid of that one. I found the AC would work fine at night even with hot temps, but then add it additional solar load from the day time and it barely kept it comfy.
Two years ago I started having issues with AC, it would not produce cold air when the car was not moving, it turns out the sub-fan was not working anymore and caused the compresor to fail, the condenser to get clogged and finally the radiator to blow up. Had to replace the condenser, radiator and AC compresor beside the Sub-Fan because of 3 mechanics failing to check both fans were functional.
My issue on my 05 baja is this, when the weather is below 90 degrees, the ac clutch will engage/ disengage just fine, but when it's well over 90 degrees. It'll stop engaging until I turn the ac off for a 5-10 minutes, then it would go back to normal operation--stop engaging again when running for a bit and so on. I decided to order an ac compressor clutch and hope it'll fix this issue, since memphis has some really bad humid heat in the summer.
My 2012 impreza 5 speed failed at 30k, was on the highway when the whole car lugged heavily for a moment then went back to normal. After that the compressor made a mild metal on metal sound until it was fixed a few weeks later. I did notice the compressor was very dusty, like it wasnt engaging fully maybe? Didn't have that car much longer after. Bought a then new 2017 manual forester, currently at 63k and so far it's functional. Compressor doesn't rattle but is the most noisy of any vehicle we own. Out of Chevy, Hyundai, Ford, and Toyota.
Having owned (and still own some) a 1995 legacy wagon, 1997 OB, 2001 forester S, 2001 2.5rs, and a 2008 sg forester I can 100% confirm that the quality just keeps going down the toilet. The SF foresters, 1st/2nd gen legacy and outback are really the sweet spot of power and reliability. The only two I have now are the 95 leggy and the 08 forester and I regret every day getting that SG. Even with super low miles and an inland california car, I've had to replace so many things (ac comp failure at 115k, rear wheel bearings, etc) that I've never touched on the 95 legacy. The quality of the aluminum and steel are subpar on the SG. Way more rust and corrosion on the SG than the leggy, both living in essentially the same area their entire lives. I probably shouldn't be saying any of this but now is the time seek out golden era subies and keep em for the indefinite future.
ALL cars RUST if exposed to oxidizing elements for prolong periods of time - modern cars are less prone to this due the unibody being galvenized to mitigate corrosion.
Wheel bearings and aircon compressors are consumable parts. 115k is not uncommon for wheel bearings. AC comp probably a little on the short side but not bad.
Going through some A/C headaches on my 2016 Forester. A plastic threaded insert on the high line seems to have broken off and bits cleared the check valve.....this is the 3rd one in a year. The first one was faulty 2nd (the one being replaced now). I didn't do my due diligence on TSB for this make/model. Lesson learned.
Thank you so much for your videos! I was having a horrible sound whenever I first turned on the AC in my 2015 Forester, and it started about a year after I bought it. Every time I took it to my service dept, I got "we can't duplicate it, so it must be working as designed." I took it to them 4 times over 4 years (don't have a lot of time or interest in hearing that line over and over). Finally found your video from a couple years ago, took it back to Subaru, told them I don't like being made to feel like I'm crazy, and demanded they look into it. Get a call from the advisor the next day saying, "oh yeah, there's a known issue with the compressor for the 2014-2016, but we rarely see it. Let's get you a new compressor." It's been a month now, and no horrible sound. Thank you, thank you, thank you for arming me with knowledge so that I don't get lumped into the ignorant female category the dealerships like to pull on me!
Great info.... I have one for you..... 2002 WRX. AC works fine but after about half hour of operation, if I take a quick left turn the AC will stop making cold air. Yes, it only happens on left turns LOL.... It usually happen on a highway underpass as I made the turn toward the access road. I avoided the issue if I took the turn slowly BUT any fast turn the the AC will stop working. Had to wait a few hours before the AC will work again and the issue will repeat all over again. Suspect the drain line to be plugged (no drain water in the garage) and the turn causes some interlock in the system due to water level within the evaporator housing. Will work on trying to unplug the line (best way to do so???)
So my 07 outback 2.5 AC works ice cold when you first turn engine on then after 5 -10 mins it stops blowing cold . I have topped it up with refrigerant and I noticed that by looking at the AC clutch when someone revved the engine of my car the clutch spins fine but then will stop spinning . Does this mean the gap between the clutch and compressor is too big ? Love the channel . Love my Subaru 👍
Great video, near me no matter what the issue with the a/c system, they will surely rake you over the coals for as much as they can, even if it's just the orings, they will most likely tell you a new compressor is needed. That's is just the way the tri-state mechanics are. I have some good mechanics that I use that I think I can trust but if an a/c issue arises, all they would see if dollar signs. Probably why most people near me with older cars, once the a/c craps out, they just get a different car. Sad but that's just the way it is. Keep up the great videos! For safe measure, I change the cabin filter onces a year regardless of how it looks. Walmart carries them for my 2016 legacy. 100% correct on older vs newer with regards to robustness. The new systems are lacking if you ask me (my 2016 is not the greatest with 50K). The real issue is now that subaru is more mainstream and has increased sales substantially, the quality has gone down. I have had subarus between 2000 up to 2016. I would take my 2000 GC6 over anything I had after. Again, my mistake selling it ugh. My GC6, with just around 100K when sold a few years ago, a/c was iceberg cold and all original.
Appreciate the explanation of the dynamics of function Subaru specific. Whether or not his video fixed your issue or gave you the answer you were trying to find, wasting (or helping) with diagnostics is a different skill set than mechanical replacement. I don't know much... Subaru, really??? Industrial mechanical and air force precision measurement calibration Chinese fortunate cookie. says, methaphorically, he showed you how to fish and didn't just give you a fish. I completely understand viewers asking an answer specifically, but repair depends on correct diagnostics. It's pseudo nerdy knowledge, I hope $2 a month is worth the time to help understand system design. The factory service manual...not a diagnostic.
Another issue that is not exactly the A/C system but is closely related is the second cooling fan behind the radiator. 1 fan cycles on and off with coolant temperature but the 2nd one comes on when you turn on the A/C. My 2nd fan motor died and when you turn on the A/C on a hot day the temp gauge goes way up quick! Turning off the A/C brings the temp down to normal levels but if your not paying attention you can end up blowing out the plastic end tanks on your radiator and maybe even the dreaded head gasket failure!
Thanks for the green jack and plug info. I have an 08 Outback so I'll be watching. It was supposed to have been serviced when I bought it due to a leak, maybe it was those O rings. Been a year so far and so far so good. Good cold air.
That is the funniest thing ever, I’m working on a 96 legacy and connected those wires and could not find out why it started doing that, I disconnected them a while ago and now I see this video and know what those are for
Just replaced o-rings and refilled the AC. It had leaking AC lubrication at the o-rings and making a very bad noise when AC is engaged. 2011 forester FB20.
I never use my AC and my '02 WRX'S system failed faster than my '90 Pontiac Sunbird's. I put a store bought recharge kit into it and it worked fine for a day or two. But now I know exactly where I'm going to look first!
@@tyree9055 same. My bugeye wrx worked after recharging it for about a week, then it was gone again and I actually saw refrigerant on the ac lines under the hood. Never fixed it. Compressor was also garbage on my blobeye wrx, and geuss what? Ac doesn’t work on my current blobeye sti either.
@@Rumblefan I pulled the compressor connections (like Mr. Subaru pointed out) and you know what I found? A push-in, slide connection with a square-edged, o-ring that had white chalk-like residue on it showing the clear blow-by going on. It's such a bad design that I'm surprised Subaru's not being sued over it (designed to fail)! I replaced their square-edged o-ring with a rounded-edged automotive one, then "reinforced" the connector with a gasket on top of that. So far it's holding up and I now have A/C for those 99° days... THANKS MR. SUBARU! 🥳
Had a clutch that wasn't engaging, the shop diagnosed as "Bad compressor" with no explanation. I was hoping for o-ring failure, aaaaand I didn't get leak or O-ring failure. My gauges/hoses actually had a 2-second magic fountain of neon green before i shut off the valves. Since chemical (not leaking) was fine, and mechanical was fine (the clutch spun smoothly)... I diagnosed the electrical. Relay coil tested fine, relay contacts were fine, wire from relay to coil was fine... and then I found out the coil was bad (no continuity). I have a 2015, so clutch kits are rare, but thanks to MANY suspicious DKV10Z clutch kits on eBay, I found one on Amazon. Wish me luck!
Update: The clutch kit was garbage... oversized clutch (it stuck out with a 2mm gap!), undersized shims (inner diameter was undersized by 1mm!), and definitely the wrong size snaprings. I only replaced the pulley and coil, and it basically worked. Forgive me, car gods, for reusing so many rusted-out consumables! Someday I might grind down the splined socket on the new clutch and replace the old one.
I had an 03 forester and it was nice and cold. I have a 2016 wrx and that thing gets worse as I drive down the road. I’ve done an evac and recharge and it was on point. The older ones held more than the newer ones
Thanks for this great video. With no pressure in my system, the first thing I checked was the two compressor o rings. Sure enough both o rings had blow by, so they both got replaced.
Where did you find the correct replacement o-rings? I bought a pack with 15 "most common o-ring variations" and unfortunately none matched either of the compresser o-rings when I took them out.
The AC compressor on my 18' forester seized a few days ago at less than 70k miles and the prior forester which was an 15' the CVT failed six thousand miles past warranty I will be avoiding this brand in the future.
I have a 2014 Subaru Crosstrek we have checked everything we know to do I have only cold air coming out of one vent. I sure hope this video helps me thank you it is July fixing to be August in Alabama
Here I am looking for another fix for wife's 2014 Forrester that we bought new and has 71k miles now. Maybe I just got a bad year because most people love their Subarus but I will never consider another one, ever. Way too many repairs. Im going back to Honda or Toyota.
100% agree. 2017 Forester. 61k miles, recalls, bulletins, new paint, unusual repairs (more happened after extended warranty expired or after dealer repairs made). Subaru Corporate helpful the 1st time. Never again
Thank you for this informative video. Driving back in the hot sun our Subaru outback A/C full on and blowing strong …hot air. After watching your video I checked the valve on the high pressure port and gas comes out strong from there when I press down the centrepiece. So I think gas is not the problem. I checked the spacing on the compressor and it engages nicely and very tight. What am I missing? Why does the A/C not produce cold air?
On the note of AC in Subaru's, I've been advised in the Liberty's, the vibration can be stronger, or maybe this is a Subaru thing. When it's on sometimes I can feel it "engage" every 10 seconds when idle... I mistakingly thought it was due to dirty maf etc? I've not felt this in my fb20 Impreza
Great video! The AC on my 2014 subaru impreza 2.0 wagon wouldn't turn on. I tried it again a few minutes later and it started running and blowing cold air. However, minutes later it stopped blowing cold air and just blew warm air. I turned it off and waited about 15 minutes before I turned it back on. It started working again as normal. Getting it checked and will be back with an update.
I am an A/c technician by trade. I never adjust these types of clutches or replace just the clutch. if the clutch gets hot usually damages compressor seal/shaft.
Sometimes the compressor's pulley bearing will seize. I was able to replace the one in mine ('94 Impreza)cheaply and with little fuss but I'm not sure how easy that is to do on new models. The ER27 also used a single serpentine belt, and the EA family engines used a double V-belt system in some configurations. The EA cars also typically used either Hitachi or Panasonic compressors (the former typically being more reliable, the latter being fitted primarily to turbo cars) though occasionally there would be a Sanden or other make especially if it was a dealer-installed system.
Great video as always! I am in agreement with you and all others with new Subarus about compressor failure. I own a 2014 Impreza Premium and had the compressor fail. Fortunately it was at 27,194 miles and covered under warranty. Now at just over 130k and still blowing cold air and running great. Stay cool🥶
My Subaru Forester 2018 just needed replacing it, 6 years is a bit short for the lifespan. I believe it happened when I smelled an intense rubber burning smell last year during fall after I replaced cabin air filter to a more expensive one with a lot metal balls and carbon filter thingy inside… Now I’m out of $1700
trying to research our issue. 2015 Forester. Compressor replaced 2 years ago (so not the compressor as best all can tell). Recently started "acting up" not blowing cold intermittently. Cold when driving, stop and idle - the air would warm up and then not get cool once driving again. Then started where it would sometimes stop being cool even when driving. BUT the next day - it would be fine and cooling like a champ?! Took it in to one mechanic - couldn't find any issue. Another mechanic found it was a bit low - put in coolant and dye. Seemed better for 2 weeks... (we are in Houston summers - so humid and hot like SC) Acted up again - took it to him - BUT it was again cooling just fine when bringing it in. The filter has been changed, he's checked electrical connection on the condenser fan. Could it be dash controllers? Ideas?
from talking to the mech - he thinks we need to check with subaru on the controller (knobs/module that powers AC on the dash?) or blended actuator motor (?what's that?)
Thanks as always Mr. Sub, yeah … me newer viewer. I have learned leaps and bounds on your channel… there is hope for me when I get to that point in my personal build. Merry Christmas friend…thanks and be well.
I had issues with the gas leaking out of A/C system on my 03 STi after only a few months. Had to keep refilling with 60 EURO A/c refrigerant bottles. got sick of it and paid a professional A/C repair company to fix system. They replaced entire front A/C radiator thing - said it was full of leaks - i could see the leaks in UV light they showed me, cost me over 400 EURO. And then of course a year later, system not working again, refrigerant all leaked out again. Had to buy another 60 EURO bottle!! Infuriating... must have spent near 1000 EURO on A/C alone in last few years!! Didn't know about o-rings and these so-called professionals didn't check them either as far as I know.
Thanks for the overview, well presented. Interesting they dropped the capacity for 5 years, must have decided the complaints were not worth the minor saving.. BTW our '02 GT has brilliant A/C, and so far trouble free.
The o ring to the air compressor is exactly my problem. I have a 2002 wrx and went to recharge it and it started leaking from both of those points. I bought o rings, vacuumed the lines, recharged and it’s all good
Valeo 73111SC020 are a bandit for throwing the magneto, and cooking the bearing. Also, the o rings from subaru are shit. I have replaced mine twice, but then ended up buying a full set (bit by bit) through Dechengwang, these o rings haven't lost a beat in years. Recommend too, that from the home DIYer, that you get yourself a black light torch. Most of the regassing thats done has the dye in it, so when you get it recharged, you can use your own torch, and look for the leaks, and diagnose yourself
Brilliant advice, I’ve a small leak somewhere on my XV, topped it up twice. Finding parts are not so available here in the uk. Going to try the UV dye first, as you mentioned high/low o rings on the compressor connections. It’s a 2014 model, so suspect them.👍
Someone may have already noted this here, but for my 2006 Outback the test mode connectors are super easy to reach - right above the carpet line on the PASSENGER SIDE tucked behind there, slightly towards the center console. Super helpful video - helped me diagnose a bad clutch. Thanks!
Thanks for the great info (and all the great video's)! Especially about the downsizing of compressors/clutches on 05's and later. That explains why my 05 Outback struggles when it hits 90 with humidity. Thanks to your video I now have some things to check to make sure everything is up to the task.
My 2015 Impreza compressor sounded like a coffee grinder at 58,000km and now doesn't respond at all when engaging A/C. Also, I have a funky hot burning smell from the vents after a good highway drive since the A/C died. Don't get me started about the soft paint! I wanted to love the car, lol, I really did.
I did the green plugs and helped me indicate the clutch was working and the fans. 👍 Still trying to figure out why idle isn't as cold but now guessing it's refrigerant levels. Thanks for the tips
Thank you for this video, my 2006 FXT with 120,000 miles air conditioner is still going strong and never been serviced, but expect my luck to run out any day now as the mid western seasonal extreme temp swings are taxing to an a/c system. I wonder if the store bought refrigerant with seal conditioner or leak sealer actually work to prevent the o rings from leaking. Another youtuber automotive guy I like to watch, South Main Auto, said most cars he services seem to lose a certain amount of refrigerant per year, I think he said up to an ounce per year, so if that's true with Subarus, I may need to add refrigerant soon anyways.
I have a subaru impreza G4 1.6 2016 from Japan, I live in the tropics 28 - 34 degrees outside temp. The AC will cool and then after a while the airflow reduces, if i turn up the blower to high I hear the blower working hard but low air flow. If i switch from recirculate to fresh air intake in aboute 2 mins i will see icy mist blowing from vents and the airflow goes back to normal. Someone was suggesting the thermostat is not working
Hmm, My 2014 Subaru Impreza 5-door is having A/C issues that don't seem to fall into any of these. The A/C will turn on, blow cold for about 2-30 minutes and randomly start blwoing warm air, even though the A/C light is still on. The cabin air filter is new. I can turn the A/C off, then back on and it'll start blowing cold again then soon warm. like it's shutting down on it's own.
I had 16 WRX and towards the end of owning the car the AC stopped working. It ended up being the Orings had dried out and shrank. Easy fix, but Subaru should move away from those orings.
Don't forget that even in the diag mode, if the system has too low refrigerant it will not cycle the compressor. Jump the pressure switch to make sure.
Just had my working ac conpressor changed under recall. Few weeks later the "new" compressor is not working right. Making that noise & blow warm & cold. 🤦♂️
just had my compressor in my 2012 outback done under warranty because it wouldn't engage properly and cooled very slowly, the new compressor is better, but the little 12oz system is no match for the 16oz in the SH forester the 250k mile compressor in my 2010 forester will literally turn that car into a freezer, but the clutch is starting to grind on engagement so looks like its time to throw a new clutch on it
04 outback AC runs great for 12 minutes and then seems to stop cooling. Turn system off for 2-3 minutes turn back on and works fine for a period of time, bad compressor sensor?
My 2014 forester 2.5 ac is intermittent. It will blow perfectly cold for a while then the compressor kicks off and it’s completely uncooled air. Seems as when I get on the gas it will kick back in for a bit but ultimately keeps going on and off. Is this indicative of any certain failure?
A/C won't turn on if freon is too low, battery voltage is too low, or fan is off. $20 gadget plugs into OBD port, and displays speed, volts, and temperature. Its worth it if you are overheating or have battery problem on a trip imo.
I like your video. While driving last summer I smelled rubbrer getting hot. I made it to my driveway, raised the hood to find the tensioner belt to the air compressor had burnt into and the long tensioner bolt under it had snapped the plastic holder on it also. I ordered in a new one and new belt, installed but then the prior working air compressor won't kick back on so I unplugged the electrical plug on top of it and took the belt back off and the new tensioner bolt to keep it from maybe breaking again. I have had no air conditioner since. After watching your video I now will check to see if the sensor for the clutch has failed or if I have those 2 green plugs under the dash to check it with. Mine is an 04 Forester X.
U r amazing thank you thank you!! Shop wanted $900 to replace. $15 in OEM o rings, recharged, FiXED! Alaska in the cab! U r a philanthropist. God bless you sir.
Of course shop wants the most 💰 ... they never try to help you out and say oh the o rings are the problem
Ima try that, mine won’t just blows warm been without AC for two summers lol need a lot of work
@@MoVoltageMoPower😅
MrSubaru indeed, a well deserved title. I know this is an older video, but thank you once again for your time and dedication on all your videos which are extremely helpful and save us $$. Really appreciate it.
I just wanted to add that on my '05 LL Bean Outback H6 the a/c was acting up. At initial turn on it blew cold.. After a few minutes the compressor stopped. The relay was no longer providing power to the compressor. Mechanic jumped the relay and the compressor came on. This caused the him to scratch his head a bit. He then remembered a Hyndai that did this about 15 years ago. Never saw it on a Subaru. So he worked back wards to a temperature sensor, not the engine temp sensor that displays on the dash. The offending sensor, as I was told by the office, resides near the thermostat and it provides info to the computer which provides the signal to the relay that turns on the compressor. Apparently it was sending an erroneous reading telling the computer the coolant temp was over 400 degrees according to the diagnostics. The computer then tells the a/c relay to stop running the compressor to remove a load from the engine. I've read numerous accounts in forums about a/c compressors not turning on after the car warms up. None ever mentioned this sensor. Replaced the sensor and all was right with the world. Keep that in your back pocket.
Ok, this was the one I was looking for. 2010 Forester XT; clutch adjusted to proper air gap; fresh coolant recharge; AC *blasts* for 10-15 min, then compressor stops engaging, fan blows only warm air; if I let the car sit at idle in the shade, it'll keep the AC cranking, but once I start to load the engine, it immediately cuts out. Your suggestion (faulty temp sensor) would explain this behavior. Now all I have to do if find the offending sensor and replace it - fingers crossed! If anyone has done this, I'd love to know more.
System rechareg - no change. Replaced the clutch - no change. Took to mechanic who finally found a frayed wire after the fuse box and before the compressor coil relay. Mended that wire, and we're back in business... had to pay for 5hrs of labor for chasing electrical gremlins, though... darn gremlins...
@12:40 cabin air filter! Check this first! Clogged filter can cause the compressor to short cycle due to the evaporator temperature sensor shutting it down as the evaporator freezes from no air flow to warm it up. Short cycling can be caused by high or low refrigerate pressure (overcharge or undercharge, clogged condenser, etc.), but just the cabin filter being clogged can cause it too. It's ez to check first.
Also, the compressor clutch engagement gets louder as that gap increases. If that engagement clunk is getting loud it's probably time to take a shim out. The clutch face comes off with jacking screws and the shims are in the center bore around the center bolt.
I have found my new home for all things Subaru. These guys rock! Very thorough and comprehensive presentation. Well done!
Really well presented information. Just had my 2014 forester ac replaced under extended warranty and had intermittent issues immediately. I checked the cabin filter after seeing this video and it was completely jammed up with dirt/dust, so the air volume and cooling issues under high fan pressure, but not low, now make total sense. Hopefully a new one does the trick.
Thank you!
my 2016 forester was producing SNOW ! at one point, found out the moisture vent was located under the front wheel arch and had blocked up going through fords and mud in winter....who on earth in Japan decided to locate it in such a place ! As was repaired twice in 5 years !
I've had the same issue on every Subaru I've owned - '97 Outback Sport, 2003 Forrester, 2006 Outback Sport, and 2008 Outback. Easy fix if you can ID the problem.
Thanks for the great content. I fixed my 2007 by removing a washer behind the ac compressor clutch to close the gap. Great videos! Always helpful!
Mr Subaru saves the day! 2011 Subaru outback 3.6L I'm in Arizona and now that the heat's coming on I thought I was just low on Freon because my AC would start off cold and then start blowing warm. I always like to see what Mr Subaru says about any procedures before I do them on my own. I have a mechanical background but don't work on cars for a living anymore. I would have chased my tail around a little bit on this one only to discover it was the simplest possible problem. I had a clogged cabin filter. Thanks to Mr Subaru I was able to start off with the simplest solution and got lucky. 👍
Thanks for sharing your info. Great video. At about 7:50 and 9:45 mention is made of using the diagnostic mode to check the electrical function of the clutch. We repaired the a/c on an '04 Forrester today, and learned that the system needs to have enough charge to observe the clutch operating, even in diagnostic mode. It didn't take long to learn that the low pressure sensor was locking out the compressor clutch in diagnostic mode, too. I simply ran a jumper from plus 12v to the compressor directly, to discern the air gap was fine, while engine not running, and quickly. In our case, the suspect two o-rings at the compressor were the core issue. Replaced them, evac'ed the system and recharged to exact volume of refrigerant, and it works like a champ now. We will remember to check/replace the cabin air filter too.
Hey there Whitney. I just wrote a question, then saw yours from a year ago. So you are saying that the green plug test is still dependent upon having enough pressure to engage the pressure sensor? I actually did the same thing as you, hotwired from the + of the battery to the clutch braided wire, and it had engaged fine. So maybe all I need is to replace O rings (and maybe the Schraders while at it), vacuum the system, and then fill it up?
@@TheCaribeso Correct, if there is not enough refrigerant pressure to enable the compressor, even in diagnostic mode, the compressor clutch will not engage. It is a safety to prevent system damage. Therefore I did a quick jumper test to ensure compressor clutch engagement. Once I saw clutch engage, I determined system was just out of refrigerant (leak at orings). Basically I wanted to eliminate electrical issues, before repairing, evacuating and re-charging the system.
@@whitneydesignlabs8738 thank you! once i realized that probably all i needed were O rings and evacuation, i brought it to a shop who finished the job for a reasonable price. Keep up the great videos!
. Very practical and obviously coming from someone with a lot of experience in the field. My 99 Legacy outback has a severe Freon leak and now I will know where to turn my attention. Thanks so much
A few questions / ideas for future videos:
1. Does the Crosstrek burn any oil?
2. How is the Crosstrek doing on the 5W-30 oil? It is running higher oil pressure? Do you recommend running these engines on 5W-30 vs. the factory fill 0W-20?
3. How useful are low cost blue tooth / phone app scan tools such as Blue driver on a Subaru?
Thanks for helping us keep out Subaru's going!
Here are my anectdotes of your questions:
1. Highly variable. I know people with my engine that burn a quart every 1k miles, while I burn like .5 quart over 6,000 miles.
2. I live in Raleigh NC, run 5w-30, it's fine. No noises or anything. That said even on the highway today in 95 degree heat it was only at 207 for the oil temp. Not crazy hot.
3. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this and the app "ActiveOBD" for Android are great. You get coolant/oil/CVT/inlet air/intact tract/cat temps, timing, battery voltage, and a good amount of code scanning ability.
Justin Quaglia What model year is your Crosstrek?
Instead of doing your research via youtube comments you should check out Subaru forums like nasioc. These are common questions and you'll find much more reliable answers than what you'll find in the comment section of an A/C diagnostic video.
The FB20D engines are very reliable! Especially the 2014 to 2017 model years because the it still used good ol port-fuel injection rather than direct-fuel injection. If you can find one with a MANUAL transmission they will last longer than the CVT... Also make sure recalls have been caught up to date. The FB20D in the Impreza and Crosstreks had valve-spring recalls best lookup via vin to see which models affected
Man. I've saved so much money by watching your videos. Thank you.
Amazing timing, this video popping up in my feed just a day after I had to deal with your first problem - compressor o-rings - in my 2017 Forester with about 93,000 miles.
I have to say for me personally, my Subaru A/C systems have served me very well compared to American made systems. Thanks for this “heads up” video Mr. Subaru. Always a great learning experience!
You're welcome. 👍🏻
knowing about the existence of the test connectors is a marvelous resource. While the compressor on my 2009 Forester just hit 180,000 miles and is getting a bit long in the tooth, I at least know I can test the air gap, which is extremely valuable knowledge.
You are a Subaru legend! Thank you for the superb video. On my '04 Outback, the A/C blows fine for about 15 minutes and then stops blowing cold air, just warm air comes on. The fan comes on but no A/C. If I turn off the car for a few minutes and then start it back, the A/C blows again for a few minutes and then off. This occurs on hot days predominantly. I have replaced the A/C clutch but the issue continues. I suspect the revolution sensor harness is bad.
Exactly what my 2010 Forester does. Aside from turning the engine off then back on, I find that raising the RPMs (usually) kicks the cold back on.
I'm having the same issue, these pass few days, then my car over heated, i added some coolant to the radiator and drove it around, so far the AC is working and the engine didn't over heat.
did you ever figure out what exactly was the problem? This exact same thing happens with my 2004 Outback H6
@@railfanatic1416 I have been unable to figure out the cause. Some posts say it could be the revolution sensor, but you can't buy that part without the AC compressor. I will take the car to a shop and let them diagnose it. The funny thing is that when it blows cold air, it blows well for 10-12 minutes which tells me it may not be a freon issue. Something is not making contact to trigger the AC after 10 minutes because the AC fan kicks in just like when AC is blowing, but the compressor does not engage. In my case, leaving the fan on and turning off the AC for 10-15 minutes works sometimes, but not always. Many times, the AC does not start if the car is hot, even if the car is turned off for more than 30 minutes. Bizarre.
@@MrSoulMonkMy Volvo was doing the same thing and I replaced the evaporator sensor and that solved it!
Thank you. You rock. My husband and I are driving from Arizona to Washington State. Our air quit working amd it is hot!!
We are travveling at night to avoid the excessive heat. I pulled up your video to trouble shoot . We figured it out. .There is nothing around for miles nor open. Thanks again. I love youtube.🔥🥶🤣
Learning about the green test plugs was like being given a cheat code in your favorite Nintendo game when you were a kid. Thanks!😊
Freaking good on Subaru for including such a useful diagnostic tool as well. Thats an amazing feature.
Just want to say "THANK YOU" for taking the time, sharing your knowledge and creating such an excellent video.
Found this in my search for my AC not blowing cold. Bought the 2015 WRX with five miles on it and now it has 93k! Still runs great and pulls hard but now can't have cold air like it used to have. It just happened one day and before that it was blowing cold. Back to the research it goes...
Thanks for posting Subie Subie videos as well. I watch them from time to time randomly
I'm having the same problem with my 15' wrx, did u ever fix the problem? If so what was causing it??
@@AhhitzSammy traded the car lol
@@AhhitzSammy same issue with my 2016 STI. Did you find a solution? My compressor has made noise since I bought it 2 years ago and kept me cool enough when it was 115 degrees last summer in Portland, but this year it’s barely adequate at 83 degrees out.
I've been hunting for an intermittent issue with my 2014 Crosstrek Hybrid AC. 120k miles. Sometimes it blows cold, but seems randomly get stop, and then come back again. Yes it happens in EV mode as expected, but this issue is during normal driving conditions. The shop can't figure it out
Well the reduced capacity system explains why my dad says his 98 Forester AC was waaay better than his 2006 Outback. Thanks!
Yup. He's telling the truth! Haha. Those 05-09 systems were impossible to dial in to handle the heat and humidity of the south.
@@MrSubaru1387 He literally says "This one is alright, doesn't do well in traffic or on sunny days. The 98 Forester would blast chill you on max." Hahaha. I've never daily driven one newer than 04.
I actually walked away from an 06 specifically due to the weak AC. This 06 had a brand new compressor done by the dealer. Still felt way weaker than the 98 i wound up buying.
@@forresttaylor2757 Haha literally exactly how my dad feels.
I just got a 2007 Impreza is there anything I can do to beef up the ac I got a baby on the way and I’d like to have good ac
By far the most extensive information packed Subaru ac video I’ve seen. Bravo 👏
Q
Thanks so much! I have an 04 LL Bean and the AC system has been giving me trouble. Had it charged, oiled, o rings replaced and now it blows cold, but will quit after about 15 minutes. Always comes back on start. I just checked the compressor clutch action with the test plugs, it didn’t look nearly as close. Gonna doublecheck once I get some feeler gauges. Cheers!
@Evangeline Podolski Nice! I'm glad you commented, I forgot to update as is usual with car work. That's all it took for me too, plus setting it to spec with my feelers.
Common Sense AC trouble shooting. I like it. People don't realize the Car AC/Heating system is not much different than their home AC/Heating system. Most people don't take care of their Home AC/Heating either LOL.
I have a little problem with AC on my 2.0i Legacy 2003, since a few weeks ago there is a little leak of water near the passenger wheel (above the catalyst more or less) and a beautiful metallic noise when AC is turned on. At the begining I thought that the water could be condensation but really I don't know. I' ve replaced the cabin filter with no results.
Thank you for all your videos @MrSubaru1387 !!
Regards from Spain!!
I watched this video a few weeks ago just to learn. Just got my 2023 crosstrek 6mt. Took a look under the hood and to my surprise the ac compressor is variable stroke (so no clutch) and the sticker on the side says Denso (well I'll be). They also switched to R1234YF
Thanks for the awesome videos!
R1234yf has very similar properties to R134a, and while it is not technically legal to retrofit to use the older refrigerant, a LOT of folks do change them over due to the high cost of R123yf, which is around 10x the cost of R134a. What is the difference? The new stuff has a lower global warming potential, and to discourage switching to the cheaper stuff they use a different hose fitting. And capitalism once again comes to the rescue of your bank account with inexpensive adapter hoses and fittings.
The A/C system on my 2003 UK STi used to keep leaking refrigerant and so I had to keep buying refrigerant refill bottles and topping pressure up - they were not cheap at €60 a bottle... and then the pressure only lasted a few months before it leaked out again. Got sick of it, so went to a professional A/C repair garage - they checked entire A/C system for leaks (he went around with some sort of light) and said it was the radiator that was the cause. So he replaced the radiator in the car - showed me old radiator and using light could see large patches of fluorescent stains on parts of radiator where it was leaking out. I asked could there be other parts leaking too and he said there were not any he could see. Cost me over €400 to do the job. So A/C works fine now. Haven't checked pressure since then though - hope its not leaking out of those O-rings you mentioned - he never said anything about that, so no idea if they replaced those too. They had awful job trying to get radiator bolts out too - had to cut them out - they were glued down. Anyway no way i could replace those without losing the pressure in system again - it is very high Bar pressure in there. They never mentioned or fixed the wobbly compressor clutch though.. it still works fine (apart from squeel at startup) so maybe they didn't notice it.
Kudos to you for your excellent descriptive vocabulary!
I could just listen to the audio track and know what and where you are pointing to. (vs. other vids that point and say 'this thingy' or 'this here'. (My rant is done.)
I have experienced that 05-09 AC. It was one of the main reasons i got rid of that one. I found the AC would work fine at night even with hot temps, but then add it additional solar load from the day time and it barely kept it comfy.
Two years ago I started having issues with AC, it would not produce cold air when the car was not moving, it turns out the sub-fan was not working anymore and caused the compresor to fail, the condenser to get clogged and finally the radiator to blow up. Had to replace the condenser, radiator and AC compresor beside the Sub-Fan because of 3 mechanics failing to check both fans were functional.
My issue on my 05 baja is this, when the weather is below 90 degrees, the ac clutch will engage/ disengage just fine, but when it's well over 90 degrees. It'll stop engaging until I turn the ac off for a 5-10 minutes, then it would go back to normal operation--stop engaging again when running for a bit and so on. I decided to order an ac compressor clutch and hope it'll fix this issue, since memphis has some really bad humid heat in the summer.
My 2012 impreza 5 speed failed at 30k, was on the highway when the whole car lugged heavily for a moment then went back to normal.
After that the compressor made a mild metal on metal sound until it was fixed a few weeks later. I did notice the compressor was very dusty, like it wasnt engaging fully maybe?
Didn't have that car much longer after.
Bought a then new 2017 manual forester, currently at 63k and so far it's functional. Compressor doesn't rattle but is the most noisy of any vehicle we own.
Out of Chevy, Hyundai, Ford, and Toyota.
Replying to myself but my compressor failed at 102,000 😆
Having owned (and still own some) a 1995 legacy wagon, 1997 OB, 2001 forester S, 2001 2.5rs, and a 2008 sg forester I can 100% confirm that the quality just keeps going down the toilet. The SF foresters, 1st/2nd gen legacy and outback are really the sweet spot of power and reliability. The only two I have now are the 95 leggy and the 08 forester and I regret every day getting that SG. Even with super low miles and an inland california car, I've had to replace so many things (ac comp failure at 115k, rear wheel bearings, etc) that I've never touched on the 95 legacy. The quality of the aluminum and steel are subpar on the SG. Way more rust and corrosion on the SG than the leggy, both living in essentially the same area their entire lives. I probably shouldn't be saying any of this but now is the time seek out golden era subies and keep em for the indefinite future.
ALL cars RUST if exposed to oxidizing elements for prolong periods of time - modern cars are less prone to this due the unibody being galvenized to mitigate corrosion.
Wheel bearings and aircon compressors are consumable parts. 115k is not uncommon for wheel bearings. AC comp probably a little on the short side but not bad.
Going through some A/C headaches on my 2016 Forester. A plastic threaded insert on the high line seems to have broken off and bits cleared the check valve.....this is the 3rd one in a year. The first one was faulty 2nd (the one being replaced now). I didn't do my due diligence on TSB for this make/model. Lesson learned.
Thank you so much for your videos! I was having a horrible sound whenever I first turned on the AC in my 2015 Forester, and it started about a year after I bought it. Every time I took it to my service dept, I got "we can't duplicate it, so it must be working as designed." I took it to them 4 times over 4 years (don't have a lot of time or interest in hearing that line over and over). Finally found your video from a couple years ago, took it back to Subaru, told them I don't like being made to feel like I'm crazy, and demanded they look into it. Get a call from the advisor the next day saying, "oh yeah, there's a known issue with the compressor for the 2014-2016, but we rarely see it. Let's get you a new compressor." It's been a month now, and no horrible sound. Thank you, thank you, thank you for arming me with knowledge so that I don't get lumped into the ignorant female category the dealerships like to pull on me!
Great info.... I have one for you..... 2002 WRX. AC works fine but after about half hour of operation, if I take a quick left turn the AC will stop making cold air. Yes, it only happens on left turns LOL.... It usually happen on a highway underpass as I made the turn toward the access road. I avoided the issue if I took the turn slowly BUT any fast turn the the AC will stop working. Had to wait a few hours before the AC will work again and the issue will repeat all over again.
Suspect the drain line to be plugged (no drain water in the garage) and the turn causes some interlock in the system due to water level within the evaporator housing. Will work on trying to unplug the line (best way to do so???)
2009 Outback N/A , 12 yrs, no problems, never had to even put in coolant here in PA. NEVER owned a car with this AC reliability!!!!!
from 10:20 onwards I was just admiring that thick wide stance you are taking, no-ones going to push you over whilst recording!
So my 07 outback 2.5 AC works ice cold when you first turn engine on then after 5 -10 mins it stops blowing cold . I have topped it up with refrigerant and I noticed that by looking at the AC clutch when someone revved the engine of my car the clutch spins fine but then will stop spinning . Does this mean the gap between the clutch and compressor is too big ? Love the channel . Love my Subaru 👍
@@jamieellis3468 Possibly, definitely worth a try removing a shim before you try anything else.
Great video, near me no matter what the issue with the a/c system, they will surely rake you over the coals for as much as they can, even if it's just the orings, they will most likely tell you a new compressor is needed. That's is just the way the tri-state mechanics are. I have some good mechanics that I use that I think I can trust but if an a/c issue arises, all they would see if dollar signs. Probably why most people near me with older cars, once the a/c craps out, they just get a different car. Sad but that's just the way it is. Keep up the great videos! For safe measure, I change the cabin filter onces a year regardless of how it looks. Walmart carries them for my 2016 legacy. 100% correct on older vs newer with regards to robustness. The new systems are lacking if you ask me (my 2016 is not the greatest with 50K). The real issue is now that subaru is more mainstream and has increased sales substantially, the quality has gone down. I have had subarus between 2000 up to 2016. I would take my 2000 GC6 over anything I had after. Again, my mistake selling it ugh. My GC6, with just around 100K when sold a few years ago, a/c was iceberg cold and all original.
My 2016 Subaru Impreza is only blowing cold on the passenger side and I don’t know why. Much help needed
Appreciate the explanation of the dynamics of function Subaru specific. Whether or not his video fixed your issue or gave you the answer you were trying to find, wasting (or helping) with diagnostics is a different skill set than mechanical replacement. I don't know much... Subaru, really??? Industrial mechanical and air force precision measurement calibration Chinese fortunate cookie. says, methaphorically, he showed you how to fish and didn't just give you a fish. I completely understand viewers asking an answer specifically, but repair depends on correct diagnostics. It's pseudo nerdy knowledge, I hope $2 a month is worth the time to help understand system design. The factory service manual...not a diagnostic.
Another issue that is not exactly the A/C system but is closely related is the second cooling fan behind the radiator. 1 fan cycles on and off with coolant temperature but the 2nd one comes on when you turn on the A/C. My 2nd fan motor died and when you turn on the A/C on a hot day the temp gauge goes way up quick! Turning off the A/C brings the temp down to normal levels but if your not paying attention you can end up blowing out the plastic end tanks on your radiator and maybe even the dreaded head gasket failure!
THIS IS WHAT I NEED TO FIX. SO HELPFUL TO READ ABOUT!!!
Thanks for the green jack and plug info. I have an 08 Outback so I'll be watching. It was supposed to have been serviced when I bought it due to a leak, maybe it was those O rings. Been a year so far and so far so good. Good cold air.
Awesome!! THANKS I just bought a 2006 wrx with no ac, now i know how to fix it!
That is the funniest thing ever, I’m working on a 96 legacy and connected those wires and could not find out why it started doing that, I disconnected them a while ago and now I see this video and know what those are for
Just replaced o-rings and refilled the AC. It had leaking AC lubrication at the o-rings and making a very bad noise when AC is engaged. 2011 forester FB20.
my bugeye is leaking somewhere on the compressor! this just helped out a TON!!! thanks for the tips
I never use my AC and my '02 WRX'S system failed faster than my '90 Pontiac Sunbird's. I put a store bought recharge kit into it and it worked fine for a day or two. But now I know exactly where I'm going to look first!
@@tyree9055 same. My bugeye wrx worked after recharging it for about a week, then it was gone again and I actually saw refrigerant on the ac lines under the hood. Never fixed it. Compressor was also garbage on my blobeye wrx, and geuss what? Ac doesn’t work on my current blobeye sti either.
@@Rumblefan I pulled the compressor connections (like Mr. Subaru pointed out) and you know what I found? A push-in, slide connection with a square-edged, o-ring that had white chalk-like residue on it showing the clear blow-by going on. It's such a bad design that I'm surprised Subaru's not being sued over it (designed to fail)!
I replaced their square-edged o-ring with a rounded-edged automotive one, then "reinforced" the connector with a gasket on top of that. So far it's holding up and I now have A/C for those 99° days...
THANKS MR. SUBARU!
🥳
@@tyree9055 that’s awful no wonder all 3 of my subarus didn’t have working ac
Had a clutch that wasn't engaging, the shop diagnosed as "Bad compressor" with no explanation.
I was hoping for o-ring failure, aaaaand I didn't get leak or O-ring failure. My gauges/hoses actually had a 2-second magic fountain of neon green before i shut off the valves.
Since chemical (not leaking) was fine, and mechanical was fine (the clutch spun smoothly)... I diagnosed the electrical.
Relay coil tested fine, relay contacts were fine, wire from relay to coil was fine... and then I found out the coil was bad (no continuity).
I have a 2015, so clutch kits are rare, but thanks to MANY suspicious DKV10Z clutch kits on eBay, I found one on Amazon.
Wish me luck!
Update: The clutch kit was garbage... oversized clutch (it stuck out with a 2mm gap!), undersized shims (inner diameter was undersized by 1mm!), and definitely the wrong size snaprings.
I only replaced the pulley and coil, and it basically worked. Forgive me, car gods, for reusing so many rusted-out consumables!
Someday I might grind down the splined socket on the new clutch and replace the old one.
I had an 03 forester and it was nice and cold. I have a 2016 wrx and that thing gets worse as I drive down the road. I’ve done an evac and recharge and it was on point. The older ones held more than the newer ones
Thanks for this great video.
With no pressure in my system, the first thing I checked was the two compressor o rings. Sure enough both o rings had blow by, so they both got replaced.
Where did you find the correct replacement o-rings? I bought a pack with 15 "most common o-ring variations" and unfortunately none matched either of the compresser o-rings when I took them out.
The AC compressor on my 18' forester seized a few days ago at less than 70k miles and the prior forester which was an 15' the CVT failed six thousand miles past warranty I will be avoiding this brand in the future.
Funny, my 05 Forester did this about a month ago. It leaked so bad i could hear it. Fixed and all good now.
Glad you got it resolved. 👍🏻
Thank you for all this good info in a professional and clear manner. You rock!
I have a 2014 Subaru Crosstrek we have checked everything we know to do I have only cold air coming out of one vent. I sure hope this video helps me thank you it is July fixing to be August in Alabama
Here I am looking for another fix for wife's 2014 Forrester that we bought new and has 71k miles now. Maybe I just got a bad year because most people love their Subarus but I will never consider another one, ever. Way too many repairs. Im going back to Honda or Toyota.
100% agree. 2017 Forester. 61k miles, recalls, bulletins, new paint, unusual repairs (more happened after extended warranty expired or after dealer repairs made). Subaru Corporate helpful the 1st time. Never again
Thank you for this informative video. Driving back in the hot sun our Subaru outback A/C full on and blowing strong …hot air. After watching your video I checked the valve on the high pressure port and gas comes out strong from there when I press down the centrepiece. So I think gas is not the problem. I checked the spacing on the compressor and it engages nicely and very tight. What am I missing? Why does the A/C not produce cold air?
Thanks for the info! Sweating here in southeast Texas. Gonna work on the sube through the sweat....
"common failures and issues". Subaru anxious levels rising again...
They're not that bad. Lol
On the note of AC in Subaru's, I've been advised in the Liberty's, the vibration can be stronger, or maybe this is a Subaru thing. When it's on sometimes I can feel it "engage" every 10 seconds when idle... I mistakingly thought it was due to dirty maf etc?
I've not felt this in my fb20 Impreza
@@MrSubaru1387 My compressor went, it's a 2017 WRX with 12k on it. That's pretty bad.
@Невада большевик Yea it did this time, but it won't next time
Great video! The AC on my 2014 subaru impreza 2.0 wagon wouldn't turn on. I tried it again a few minutes later and it started running and blowing cold air. However, minutes later it stopped blowing cold air and just blew warm air. I turned it off and waited about 15 minutes before I turned it back on. It started working again as normal. Getting it checked and will be back with an update.
I have the same car and have the same issue! What did you learn???
My A/C was intermittent and couldn't figure why, but my battery light came on that was caused by a bad alternator. New alternator = cold A/C.
I am an A/c technician by trade. I never adjust these types of clutches or replace just the clutch. if the clutch gets hot usually damages compressor seal/shaft.
Sometimes the compressor's pulley bearing will seize. I was able to replace the one in mine ('94 Impreza)cheaply and with little fuss but I'm not sure how easy that is to do on new models. The ER27 also used a single serpentine belt, and the EA family engines used a double V-belt system in some configurations. The EA cars also typically used either Hitachi or Panasonic compressors (the former typically being more reliable, the latter being fitted primarily to turbo cars) though occasionally there would be a Sanden or other make especially if it was a dealer-installed system.
New o rings worked like a charm. Thank you
Great video! You explain everything very well and explain it in a way, so that it's easy to understand. 😊
Great video as always! I am in agreement with you and all others with new Subarus about compressor failure. I own a 2014 Impreza Premium and had the compressor fail. Fortunately it was at 27,194 miles and covered under warranty. Now at just over 130k and still blowing cold air and running great. Stay cool🥶
My Subaru Forester 2018 just needed replacing it, 6 years is a bit short for the lifespan. I believe it happened when I smelled an intense rubber burning smell last year during fall after I replaced cabin air filter to a more expensive one with a lot metal balls and carbon filter thingy inside… Now I’m out of $1700
trying to research our issue.
2015 Forester. Compressor replaced 2 years ago (so not the compressor as best all can tell).
Recently started "acting up" not blowing cold intermittently. Cold when driving, stop and idle - the air would warm up and then not get cool once driving again. Then started where it would sometimes stop being cool even when driving.
BUT the next day - it would be fine and cooling like a champ?!
Took it in to one mechanic - couldn't find any issue.
Another mechanic found it was a bit low - put in coolant and dye. Seemed better for 2 weeks...
(we are in Houston summers - so humid and hot like SC)
Acted up again - took it to him - BUT it was again cooling just fine when bringing it in.
The filter has been changed, he's checked electrical connection on the condenser fan.
Could it be dash controllers?
Ideas?
from talking to the mech - he thinks we need to check with subaru on the controller (knobs/module that powers AC on the dash?) or blended actuator motor (?what's that?)
found a video related to the ambient temperature sensor... maybe that?
Thanks as always Mr. Sub, yeah … me newer viewer. I have learned leaps and bounds on your channel… there is hope for me when I get to that point in my personal build. Merry Christmas friend…thanks and be well.
I had issues with the gas leaking out of A/C system on my 03 STi after only a few months. Had to keep refilling with 60 EURO A/c refrigerant bottles. got sick of it and paid a professional A/C repair company to fix system. They replaced entire front A/C radiator thing - said it was full of leaks - i could see the leaks in UV light they showed me, cost me over 400 EURO. And then of course a year later, system not working again, refrigerant all leaked out again. Had to buy another 60 EURO bottle!! Infuriating... must have spent near 1000 EURO on A/C alone in last few years!! Didn't know about o-rings and these so-called professionals didn't check them either as far as I know.
Wow! All that info for free. Thanks dude for all your videos
Thanks for the overview, well presented. Interesting they dropped the capacity for 5 years, must have decided the complaints were not worth the minor saving.. BTW our '02 GT has brilliant A/C, and so far trouble free.
The o ring to the air compressor is exactly my problem. I have a 2002 wrx and went to recharge it and it started leaking from both of those points. I bought o rings, vacuumed the lines, recharged and it’s all good
Where did you buy the O rings? Size?
Valeo 73111SC020 are a bandit for throwing the magneto, and cooking the bearing. Also, the o rings from subaru are shit. I have replaced mine twice, but then ended up buying a full set (bit by bit) through Dechengwang, these o rings haven't lost a beat in years.
Recommend too, that from the home DIYer, that you get yourself a black light torch. Most of the regassing thats done has the dye in it, so when you get it recharged, you can use your own torch, and look for the leaks, and diagnose yourself
Its reassuring to hear the somewhat weak AC on my 2005 LGT is normal. It will get very cold, it just takes a while when its near 100 degrees.
Brilliant advice, I’ve a small leak somewhere on my XV, topped it up twice. Finding parts are not so available here in the uk. Going to try the UV dye first, as you mentioned high/low o rings on the compressor connections. It’s a 2014 model, so suspect them.👍
2012 Forester here with 150k miles. When my compressor kicks in it's much louder than my 2003 Forester but still blows cold air.
Someone may have already noted this here, but for my 2006 Outback the test mode connectors are super easy to reach - right above the carpet line on the PASSENGER SIDE tucked behind there, slightly towards the center console. Super helpful video - helped me diagnose a bad clutch. Thanks!
My 2010 Forester has them located in the same place.
Thanks for the great info (and all the great video's)! Especially about the downsizing of compressors/clutches on 05's and later. That explains why my 05 Outback struggles when it hits 90 with humidity. Thanks to your video I now have some things to check to make sure everything is up to the task.
You're welcome 👍🏻
My 2015 Impreza compressor sounded like a coffee grinder at 58,000km and now doesn't respond at all when engaging A/C.
Also, I have a funky hot burning smell from the vents after a good highway drive since the A/C died. Don't get me started about the soft paint!
I wanted to love the car, lol, I really did.
I did the green plugs and helped me indicate the clutch was working and the fans. 👍
Still trying to figure out why idle isn't as cold but now guessing it's refrigerant levels.
Thanks for the tips
I'm trying to determine why mine blows ice cold as long as I'm moving but warm are at idle. I had the refrigerant check.
Thank you for this video, my 2006 FXT with 120,000 miles air conditioner is still going strong and never been serviced, but expect my luck to run out any day now as the mid western seasonal extreme temp swings are taxing to an a/c system. I wonder if the store bought refrigerant with seal conditioner or leak sealer actually work to prevent the o rings from leaking. Another youtuber automotive guy I like to watch, South Main Auto, said most cars he services seem to lose a certain amount of refrigerant per year, I think he said up to an ounce per year, so if that's true with Subarus, I may need to add refrigerant soon anyways.
I have a subaru impreza G4 1.6 2016 from Japan, I live in the tropics 28 - 34 degrees outside temp. The AC will cool and then after a while the airflow reduces, if i turn up the blower to high I hear the blower working hard but low air flow. If i switch from recirculate to fresh air intake in aboute 2 mins i will see icy mist blowing from vents and the airflow goes back to normal. Someone was suggesting the thermostat is not working
Thanks just fixed a/c now had to take out a shim on the a/c pully
Hmm, My 2014 Subaru Impreza 5-door is having A/C issues that don't seem to fall into any of these. The A/C will turn on, blow cold for about 2-30 minutes and randomly start blwoing warm air, even though the A/C light is still on. The cabin air filter is new. I can turn the A/C off, then back on and it'll start blowing cold again then soon warm. like it's shutting down on it's own.
I had 16 WRX and towards the end of owning the car the AC stopped working. It ended up being the Orings had dried out and shrank. Easy fix, but Subaru should move away from those orings.
20 year old impreza, only AC issue ever had was an o-ring started leaking and needed to be replaced
Don't forget that even in the diag mode, if the system has too low refrigerant it will not cycle the compressor. Jump the pressure switch to make sure.
Grateful for your in depth narration!
Just had my working ac conpressor changed under recall. Few weeks later the "new" compressor is not working right. Making that noise & blow warm & cold. 🤦♂️
just had my compressor in my 2012 outback done under warranty because it wouldn't engage properly and cooled very slowly, the new compressor is better, but the little 12oz system is no match for the 16oz in the SH forester
the 250k mile compressor in my 2010 forester will literally turn that car into a freezer, but the clutch is starting to grind on engagement so looks like its time to throw a new clutch on it
Thank you for your knowledge just picked up an 04 out back LL bean edition first thing I was told ac doesn’t work. So I have a starting point.
04 outback AC runs great for 12 minutes and then seems to stop cooling. Turn system off for 2-3 minutes turn back on and works fine for a period of time, bad compressor sensor?
17 impreza looses engine power when ac is turned on, nice video.
My 2014 forester 2.5 ac is intermittent. It will blow perfectly cold for a while then the compressor kicks off and it’s completely uncooled air. Seems as when I get on the gas it will kick back in for a bit but ultimately keeps going on and off. Is this indicative of any certain failure?
My wife's 2015 xv crosstrek just quit cooling and it sounds like yours but on steroids great video
A/C won't turn on if freon is too low, battery voltage is too low, or fan is off. $20 gadget plugs into OBD port, and displays speed, volts, and temperature. Its worth it if you are overheating or have battery problem on a trip imo.
The AC clutch bearing can also fail and it's possible to replace it with $12 bearing. Thanks for the video!
Is that my ac pully will screech really loud when I turn on the AC?
How do you know when that bearing has failed? Where can I learn the procedure to replace it?
I like your video. While driving last summer I smelled rubbrer getting hot. I made it to my driveway, raised the hood to find the tensioner belt to the air compressor had burnt into and the long tensioner bolt under it had snapped the plastic holder on it also. I ordered in a new one and new belt, installed but then the prior working air compressor won't kick back on so I unplugged the electrical plug on top of it and took the belt back off and the new tensioner bolt to keep it from maybe breaking again. I have had no air conditioner since. After watching your video I now will check to see if the sensor for the clutch has failed or if I have those 2 green plugs under the dash to check it with. Mine is an 04 Forester X.