If I remember correctly I believe the book time for this job that calls for the whole dash removal was around 9 hours plus another.5 for the actual mode door actuator replacement so not a cheap job but most of the ones I was doing were warranty jobs so roughly half of that time IF you documented everything correctly so you can get paid the proper time.... Lol dealership life was definitely a love and hate type thing lol
Insane, just a little engineering, redesign and relocation and this thing would instead be a 1 hour job. Access door behind the cluster or radio for example.
Wow. This is one of the best DIY r/r videos ever. Anybody object to me giving MrSubaru1387 the youtube users' automotive DIY video of the year award? Comment with Yes - award or yes - award with high honors. 😅
That actuator is sketchy in both of my Gen 4 Outbacks (a 2010 and a 2011). I have been living with the noise and hunting of the actuators for a few years and was about to finally replace them this summer. After seeing this video (well done, by the way, great presentation) I believe that I will continue putting off replacement of the actuators a bit longer... I need to align my Karma a bit and become more at peace with the world before doing this...twice, in my case. LOLOLOL! Great video, keep 'em coming, my friend.
Holy crap! I had the dealer replace the Takata airbag in my 2014 Outback Premium after I got the recall notice.This video just made it abundantly clear why I ended up driving their loaner car for an extra day. And, I'm sure that job was easier than this one.
My actuator blew out maybe 40k miles ago and has been stuck on one vent mode ever since… this video convinced me that I can live with having cold feet in the winter. I’ve pulled dashes before. Not worth the pain to stop the cold feet in the winter😂
I just finished this job this morning. Took me about 3.5 hours. Some tips/tricks for those who are willing to tackle this: 1. Everything is plastic. Don't be afraid to yank hard but in a short distance. If you break a clip, it's not the end of the world. Once you put everything back together you won't be able to tell. 2. Get a right angle bit driver like MrSubaru shows at 8:26. Harbor Freight has one for 2.99 (Pittsburgh 92630). I was able to get the job done with a stubby screwdriver, but one of these would have saved me some headache especially at 12:19 and when for two out of three screws holding the actuator motor in. Luckily I didn't have tweeters. 3. When re-aligning the pegs on the doors, I found the best way is to plug in the actuator, DON'T mount it, and set it to full defrost mode (right-most button). Then you can manually close the foot-vent door (peek down through the four vanes, it actually falls into the closed position), the four vanes at the top, and open the windshield vent. Then alight the actuator to the top most mounting point and the pegs should be aligned easily enough to mount. 4. There are three types of screws: Silver pointy ones for holding the dash to the metal braces, black pointy ones that go under the silver trim above the glovebox + within the center console by the shifter, and silver ones with a flat tip used to mount the radio and HVAC console. I mixed up some of the silver ones when reassembling before realizing there was a difference, with no ill effect. 5. Watch this video a few times over so you know where the screws are. That will save time during the job instead of going back and forth and referencing this video after each screw. It's not a hard job it's just a bit tedious with all the panels and screws. It looks like a PITA job, but in my opinion it's really not too bad compared to climbing under the car and getting dirty.
Just did this on my 2010 legacy gt. Wasn't fun but now I don't hear a robot behind my dash that I've been listening to for the past 3 years. what a RELIEF! Also not sure if this technique works on radio bezels that haven't been off before. But the super easy way I take it off is open that pocket above the HVAC controls, shove my hand in in the pocket, make a fist and pull. Comes out every time no problem
i did one of the recently and kind of cheated, i removed the just the motor and left the white cam and black backing plate in place and just changed the motor. i was able to do it from under the dash without removing very much. i know it isnt technically the right way to do it, but worked and was way quicker. the car was a roach and customer didnt want to pay to remove the dash.
I was able to replace the mode actuator in my 2011 Outback without pulling the dash or instrument cluster, although I kinda wish I pulled the instrument cluster now to see it from the top. I have long skinny arms and just reached up from under the dash. I used a combination of different screw drivers including a right angle ratcheting one. Not an easy task and I definitely cut up my arms doing it. My actuator couldn't find the floor and dash vent position, but all the other positions worked. It would twitch back and forth trying to find the position. I just cleaned the contacts and reinstalled it and it worked again. The contact for that position got grease and dirt on it. I was trying to avoid replacing it shortly before selling the car. I miss how easy the dash side covers came off on that Outback compared to current my Crosstrek. But I appreciate the longer strap/on the a-pillar trim. The windshield guy cut one of the a-pillar clips on my Outback to get to the wiper deicer plug 😡. I'm glad I discovered it and replaced the clip because the airbag would make that trim a projectile without it.
Subaru: "We made it easy to get to our parts by incorporating ziplock bags. You no longer need to struggle and rip open single use plastic bags." Customer: "Okay, but can you make the parts IN THE CAR easy to get to, so we don't have to struggle to get to those?" Subaru: "🤣 No!"
Oh my goodness😮. What a wonderful grasp of fortitude and patience! You are the example of excellence for every mechanic. Job well done and meticulously documented. Thank you
They really designed this car without maintenance in mind. It's so bad it's almost funny. You have to remove the front tires and trim to replace the low beams. Huge thank you for this walkthrough and pointing out all the screws and wire connectors
I am in awe of your skill. Having owned 3 Subarus in my life and definitely having felt the pain of some of the repairs and questionable accessibility of places where Subaru engineers bury the parts inside the vehicle I can honestly say I would rather replace spark plugs on H6 engines from early 2000s and remove and replace Subaru suspension components in Rust Belt again than attempt to replace that actuator motor. For some of you that do not understand what I'm on about; replacing spark plugs on an H6 Subaru engine of early 2000s with motor still in the car is beyond very difficult on your best day and getting rusty salt fused suspension components off the early 2000s Subarus is almost impossible without breaking yourself, tools and other things and I would rather do that than do what Mr. Subaru just did with the actuator motor.
My God what a job! I really wish it had just been the squeaky sunglass holder in the headliner.. How in the hell did you keep track of all those screws and clips? You're amazing!
These types of videos are so damn inspiring. Thank you so much. I need a spare vehicle, a backyard, and much free time to work on my pet project vehicles. If I had that above requirement, I would use these videos as a guide. Looks easy enough. I have slightly modified my 2013 Subaru Legacy, but I have yet to do something in-depth as this.
With a passion I _hate_ dash work... so glad I no longer have to piddle with them. You gave me a backache just watching - had to go lay down and everything. :) Cool videos, and oh, once more thanks for the 'MrSubaru10' Koken discount code; it again saved me some substantial cash! :)
This is about a $1200 cost for it to be done at a Subaru service center. I checked in Southern California where I live. Service costs $823 Part: $100 Trouble shooting: $211 They will not replace the part without doing an inspection to see what the issue what the AC is. Even if you’re 100% certain it’s the blend door actuator, they won’t repair your vehicle without troubleshooting.
I don’t have the patience for a job like that. Hat off to you for that job. I’m guessing that took you about 5 to 6 hours to do. Well done to you on that job. 👍
Just an incredible video! Hard to believe that you were able to keep track of everything. You're one in a million and did a super job of video work plus explanation to the smallest detail. If this video were graded it would be off the charts PhD +++
Wow, that is RIDICULOUS! I will live with my noisy actuator... But if they're willing to pay for the work...And the video quality was just fine, especially with how much extra that added to your job.
Thanks Robert this is a great video for our fifth GEN Subaru legacy page on Facebook we usually get a ton of questions how to pull the dash apart the right way and there really isn’t anything on UA-cam!
I replaced this part a few years ago on my sons 2011 OB and did it without removing the dash. Got to it from underneath and hope I never have to do this ever again. I do not think my back and neck will ever be the same. 🙂
I had thiis issue and, after seeing this video dreaded the fix. I took it to my Subaru dealer and they got the job done with two hours labour. Pleasantly surprised I showed the tech this video and he shook is head saying "naaah... you don't need to do all that". Then my kids started misbehaving distracting me, the tech left to another customer and the moment all passed before I asked how he did it (and, to be honest, I'm probably never going to do this again so don't care too much). Mine is a 2012 Outback 3.6R in Australia.
Wow, nice job. We had a 2011 Outback and I wanted to meet the engineers who designed the headlight assembly replacing the low beam lamp through the wheel wells. 🤔🤔
Robert…don’t know how my indy shop did it, but they replaced mine with just the lower and center stack cover and the IP removed, which I already had removed. 1 1/2 hours labor; like $235 with parts. I looked at doing it myself, but when they quoted me that price, I said “Go for it!!!” 😀
Wow! What an awesome video. You basically laid out the entire process. Mine is making so much noise. Now I'm gonna follow this video and replace that piece. Thank you so much!!! Subscribed.
Thanks for this video! I have to replace my leaking evaporator which requires all this, plus draining coolant and removing the entire HVAC housing. Now I know to get some really long pliers for that a pillar clip. discovering that in the middle of this job would have been a very unpleasant surprise! I am definitely replacing that actuator while I'm in there.
Hello what fails it is, I still want to replace the evaporator of the A.C. cools and warms, the problem is that behind the tachometer when I turn it off makes me a noise like water…
Just went through this. The last 2 little wiring clips at the corners of the dash are a beast. The screw faces the windshield and you can't pull the dash out very far without removing them. You need a little stuby philips screwdriver, like 2" or less, then use it backwards. Lucky I had one like that. The clips behind the pillars were a pain, but not as bad as I thought with a 16" plier set. The connector for the airbag confused me. There is a green "button" you push to release the lock. However you need to push it much harder than it seems. It stops like you've pressed it all the way but it requires much more force to fully release it. Only realized this after using pliers on it and it finally released. I have to go further than this and remove the entire crash bar and hvac box to get to the evaporator. Wish there was a video for that!
Before anyone attempts this, just know that this is 100 percent can be done from underneath the steering wheel. you just need a stubby or flexible screwdriver because its very tight. Wish I have known that before wasting hours trying to remove my dash. Thanks a lot Mr Subaru you should've known better
That's taking apart a significant percentage of the vehicle to replace a mode door actuator. Subaru seems to know what they're doing with the use zip-lock bags.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. You did a great job! This video will really help me a lot since I have to replace my heater core in my 2014 Outback.
That job is almost as bad as replacing a heater core on a 1980's Ford Taurus. With the way Subaru does their dash it looks like you will have less squeaks that the Ford after you're done. Nice job with the explanation.
Thabk you very very much for the awesome video and the very detailed procedures in all your videos. Mine failed 2011 outback and i would have left it as it was but in chicago i need to defrost the windshield in winter and unfortunately the actuator got stuck haleay in between vent and floor settings. Thanks to your video i completed the job in 35 mins Thabk you
Thanks for a great video, just replaced the actuator in my 2011 Outback 3.6r, figured I'd tackle this since i was upgrading the stock stereo at the same time.
MrSubaru great job! I envy you that a job like this would take about 2 hours. For somebody like me, it would be...take off one part, spend 30 minutes researching why the next part won't come out...find it, take that apart, repeat, repeat, repeat. Then put the dash back together only to realize I forgot to plug in two things, so take the dash back out, plug them in, put the dash back in...20 hours later, 4 band-aids, one order for a couple parts I ended up breaking, and a mega-ton of aggravation, and it would get done. But, the next time, it would only take....10 hours?
You are my hero man :) I'll probably do it to my 2014 Outback either end of this summer or next... It does the annoying click sometimes... but still works... I've been looking for a video for a long time.....
Great Video. I am in the middle of trying to do this repair myself. One issue I was hoping for clarification on is which plastic pins go in which grooves. I am currently stuck trying to line up the pins with the grooves. Please help
All right I finally figured out which pegs go into which channels. I made a video showing you which ones go where and it also includes a few other tips that made the job easier for me. ua-cam.com/video/JZEdc7WUCTE/v-deo.htmlsi=o4RRQfd4ftyFFf_b
Great job! A lot of hard work. Def earned a “Like and subscribe”. I think I have to change my driver side actuator as it’s blowing out hot air and the passenger side is blowing cold. I have a 2017 forester. Should have tackled it during the spring when it wasn’t so hot outside. Great video and great details. Many thanks.
Perfect I have a 2013 manual and I hope I don't have to do this. I am already having enough trouble figuring out how to remove my engine/transmission/both to fix my clutch. This engine is mounted differently than all the vids I've found. :)
Like rwbishop I also HATE removing a dash. I find it almost enraging when I really start thinking about it too much. That setup needs to be designed and built differently to be able to access everything behind the dash. That being said this Subaru dash is much better designed than the last dash I did which was a GM product. In any case, cool video.
Its actually very simple to do this job without removing the entire dash, on the bottom of the steering colume there is a module that unplugs and unbolts to give you a bunch of room to access all 3 screws, stubby screwdriver and a couple of awkward positions and its loose, I did remove the instrument cluster to gain access to the electrical connector and it helped when lining up the vents control lever up top. Took about 90 min for my first time.
Sorry guys I don't make videos, as far as removing the cluster it is the same as this video, there's a large module directly under the steering column that unplugs and removes with a couple of bolts and that's where you gain all of your access to reach up from the bottom to get to the screws.
Nice video. I replaced my evaporator on my 2010 outback last year on my own. Tons of work. One question. What is the brand of the electric screwdriver you’re using? Looks nice.
I noticed the actuator you took off had some kind of lubricant in the grooves. Do you recommend us putting some lubricant in the new one before putting it in?
I just managed to partially solve this with no dashboard removing. Remove instrument panel and we got deep and narrow access to blend door to windshield mode. In my case this was the important I needed to get back working. So there I screwed screw to push it with force to stay open and that's it. It will forever stay in windshield and foot mode.
I had to do the same job on a Lincoln Town car I used to own. Whole dash had to come out. My brother wanted me to replace the one in his truck, and I told him just sell the truck. This isn't a subaru problem, it's a problem of shoving 10 pounds of manure in a 5 pound bag. Instead of making this part easier to change, I think it would be better if they just made it out of better materials. Because they fail in pretty much every vehicle, no matter the brand.
What a nightmare. I just did the mix door in my wife's Pathfinder and thankfully I didn't have to pull the dash or I would have had to pay $$$$ for it.
So, newer model and taking the dash out looks even more of a PITA. Taken dash out '98 Outback,RH Drive, half day, more to get it back in. You,2Hrs, counted how many you have done ? I'm not missing this mode door activator,lol, part of auto climate control right?! Manual door activator is working just fine, no motor to fail.... I do note that the wiring harness is much neater there. So my model still has a lot of high current cabling coming to the dash region, even though there is relays and whatnot out in the boot for lights and AC. Those connectors were a right pita for me under the dash. I do like the orientation of the fuse panel there. Mine, on the sidewall is real hard to look at and work with.
Excellent tutorial. Seemed like you had half of your plier drawer out at one point :) I have to really be in the right frame of mind to nearly disassemble an entire dash to fix an annoyance. And I always keep my fingers crossed that nothing rattles afterwards. Sounds like the customer is willing to do what it takes to keep their old Subaru alive. Going to flush out that old nasty brake fluid next?
I was thinking that you could pull the cluster and radio and get to both sides of the actuator but maybe I'm thinking of an older model but I remember replacing them that way when the manual called for the whole dash r&r .. made for a decent flat rate job and helped make up for all the rusty and seized suspension parts making a 2 hour wheel bearing job into a six hour clusterfuck lol. Or maybe that was on a Forester? Idk but I definitely remember replacing them that way....
I thought it was the fresh/recirc mode door that required the dash to be pulled up? For the mode door you should have access from below once you pull the lower trim panel/hush panel and then the knee protector and then the BIU. (I was poking around under the dash for some other stuff, and you can definitely lay hands on everything. That's what the service manual shows you as the procedure, as well. Is access more restricted?
You've convinced me that the problem isn't that bad and I'll leave it alone. Can't imagine what a dealer would want for this.
Sometimes, that's the right answer.
If I remember correctly I believe the book time for this job that calls for the whole dash removal was around 9 hours plus another.5 for the actual mode door actuator replacement so not a cheap job but most of the ones I was doing were warranty jobs so roughly half of that time IF you documented everything correctly so you can get paid the proper time.... Lol dealership life was definitely a love and hate type thing lol
Insane, just a little engineering, redesign and relocation and this thing would instead be a 1 hour job. Access door behind the cluster or radio for example.
what does that actuator control?
@@carll91Vent selection (defrost, vents, floor)
That was an un-be-leeeeevable amount of work just to replace that piece. Well done! You are a very patient and talented man.
I'm so grateful that you do videos on this gen of Outback, they're so hard to find!
I subbed because of this 👍
Wow. This is one of the best DIY r/r videos ever. Anybody object to me giving MrSubaru1387 the youtube users' automotive DIY video of the year award? Comment with Yes - award or yes - award with high honors. 😅
It's a great candidate for all "while you're in there" maintenance.
That actuator is sketchy in both of my Gen 4 Outbacks (a 2010 and a 2011). I have been living with the noise and hunting of the actuators for a few years and was about to finally replace them this summer. After seeing this video (well done, by the way, great presentation) I believe that I will continue putting off replacement of the actuators a bit longer... I need to align my Karma a bit and become more at peace with the world before doing this...twice, in my case. LOLOLOL! Great video, keep 'em coming, my friend.
Amen! 😂
Thank you for reinforcing my decision to NOT replace the Actuator in my 2014 Legacy. Well done!
Outstanding video for that actuator, radio replacement, tweeters, shift knob removal... everything. Great job as always and thank you for filming it.
Holy crap! I had the dealer replace the Takata airbag in my 2014 Outback Premium after I got the recall notice.This video just made it abundantly clear why I ended up driving their loaner car for an extra day. And, I'm sure that job was easier than this one.
My actuator blew out maybe 40k miles ago and has been stuck on one vent mode ever since… this video convinced me that I can live with having cold feet in the winter. I’ve pulled dashes before. Not worth the pain to stop the cold feet in the winter😂
I just finished this job this morning. Took me about 3.5 hours.
Some tips/tricks for those who are willing to tackle this:
1. Everything is plastic. Don't be afraid to yank hard but in a short distance. If you break a clip, it's not the end of the world. Once you put everything back together you won't be able to tell.
2. Get a right angle bit driver like MrSubaru shows at 8:26. Harbor Freight has one for 2.99 (Pittsburgh 92630). I was able to get the job done with a stubby screwdriver, but one of these would have saved me some headache especially at 12:19 and when for two out of three screws holding the actuator motor in. Luckily I didn't have tweeters.
3. When re-aligning the pegs on the doors, I found the best way is to plug in the actuator, DON'T mount it, and set it to full defrost mode (right-most button). Then you can manually close the foot-vent door (peek down through the four vanes, it actually falls into the closed position), the four vanes at the top, and open the windshield vent. Then alight the actuator to the top most mounting point and the pegs should be aligned easily enough to mount.
4. There are three types of screws: Silver pointy ones for holding the dash to the metal braces, black pointy ones that go under the silver trim above the glovebox + within the center console by the shifter, and silver ones with a flat tip used to mount the radio and HVAC console. I mixed up some of the silver ones when reassembling before realizing there was a difference, with no ill effect.
5. Watch this video a few times over so you know where the screws are. That will save time during the job instead of going back and forth and referencing this video after each screw.
It's not a hard job it's just a bit tedious with all the panels and screws. It looks like a PITA job, but in my opinion it's really not too bad compared to climbing under the car and getting dirty.
Just did this on my 2010 legacy gt. Wasn't fun but now I don't hear a robot behind my dash that I've been listening to for the past 3 years. what a RELIEF!
Also not sure if this technique works on radio bezels that haven't been off before. But the super easy way I take it off is open that pocket above the HVAC controls, shove my hand in in the pocket, make a fist and pull. Comes out every time no problem
i did one of the recently and kind of cheated, i removed the just the motor and left the white cam and black backing plate in place and just changed the motor. i was able to do it from under the dash without removing very much. i know it isnt technically the right way to do it, but worked and was way quicker. the car was a roach and customer didnt want to pay to remove the dash.
If there's anyone I'd trust to work on my car, it'd have to be Mr Subaru!
I was able to replace the mode actuator in my 2011 Outback without pulling the dash or instrument cluster, although I kinda wish I pulled the instrument cluster now to see it from the top. I have long skinny arms and just reached up from under the dash. I used a combination of different screw drivers including a right angle ratcheting one. Not an easy task and I definitely cut up my arms doing it. My actuator couldn't find the floor and dash vent position, but all the other positions worked. It would twitch back and forth trying to find the position. I just cleaned the contacts and reinstalled it and it worked again. The contact for that position got grease and dirt on it. I was trying to avoid replacing it shortly before selling the car.
I miss how easy the dash side covers came off on that Outback compared to current my Crosstrek. But I appreciate the longer strap/on the a-pillar trim. The windshield guy cut one of the a-pillar clips on my Outback to get to the wiper deicer plug 😡. I'm glad I discovered it and replaced the clip because the airbag would make that trim a projectile without it.
"Subaru really stepping it up with the Ziploc bags" 😂
Subaru: "We made it easy to get to our parts by incorporating ziplock bags. You no longer need to struggle and rip open single use plastic bags."
Customer: "Okay, but can you make the parts IN THE CAR easy to get to, so we don't have to struggle to get to those?"
Subaru: "🤣 No!"
No joke. I think i used about 30 bags for this over the weekend.
Oh my goodness😮. What a wonderful grasp of fortitude and patience! You are the example of excellence for every mechanic. Job well done and meticulously documented. Thank you
They really designed this car without maintenance in mind. It's so bad it's almost funny. You have to remove the front tires and trim to replace the low beams. Huge thank you for this walkthrough and pointing out all the screws and wire connectors
Easiest way to remove radio trim is to open the little cubbies door and pull on the door itself. Works like a charm
Right idea, but to avoid damaging the door, you can put your hand in the cubby and make a fist and it's enough grip to remove the panel.
That is an insane amount of parts removal and work just to get at the actuator.
That was their purpose of designing , getting your money into their pockets.😊
YES! I requested this video a while back in the comments but seems my prayers have finally been answered! Thanks Mr. Subaru!
I am in awe of your skill. Having owned 3 Subarus in my life and definitely having felt the pain of some of the repairs and questionable accessibility of places where Subaru engineers bury the parts inside the vehicle I can honestly say I would rather replace spark plugs on H6 engines from early 2000s and remove and replace Subaru suspension components in Rust Belt again than attempt to replace that actuator motor.
For some of you that do not understand what I'm on about; replacing spark plugs on an H6 Subaru engine of early 2000s with motor still in the car is beyond very difficult on your best day and getting rusty salt fused suspension components off the early 2000s Subarus is almost impossible without breaking yourself, tools and other things and I would rather do that than do what Mr. Subaru just did with the actuator motor.
It amazes me that all this stuff had to originally be designed and manufactured to fit around all of the other stuff under the dash.
My God what a job!
I really wish it had just been the squeaky sunglass holder in the headliner..
How in the hell did you keep track of all those screws and clips? You're amazing!
These types of videos are so damn inspiring. Thank you so much.
I need a spare vehicle, a backyard, and much free time to work on my pet project vehicles.
If I had that above requirement, I would use these videos as a guide. Looks easy enough.
I have slightly modified my 2013 Subaru Legacy, but I have yet to do something in-depth as this.
With a passion I _hate_ dash work... so glad I no longer have to piddle with them. You gave me a backache just watching - had to go lay down and everything. :)
Cool videos, and oh, once more thanks for the 'MrSubaru10' Koken discount code; it again saved me some substantial cash! :)
This is about a $1200 cost for it to be done at a Subaru service center. I checked in Southern California where I live.
Service costs $823
Part: $100
Trouble shooting: $211
They will not replace the part without doing an inspection to see what the issue what the AC is. Even if you’re 100% certain it’s the blend door actuator, they won’t repair your vehicle without troubleshooting.
I don’t have the patience for a job like that. Hat off to you for that job. I’m guessing that took you about 5 to 6 hours to do. Well done to you on that job. 👍
About 3 hours or so with filming and my Snap-on dealer dropping in. Otherwise probably about a 2hr job to pull, replace, install.
That’s why I would come to you for the work to be done. Again thanks for what you do.
You are a genius. It scares me just to watch this.
Just an incredible video! Hard to believe that you were able to keep track of everything. You're one in a million and did a super job of video work plus explanation to the smallest detail. If this video were graded it would be off the charts PhD +++
I'm happy to know mechanics as yourself exist. Great work! 😎👍
Wow, that is RIDICULOUS! I will live with my noisy actuator... But if they're willing to pay for the work...And the video quality was just fine, especially with how much extra that added to your job.
Thanks Robert this is a great video for our fifth GEN Subaru legacy page on Facebook we usually get a ton of questions how to pull the dash apart the right way and there really isn’t anything on UA-cam!
We have a 2013 Legacy. I will drive to SC and see you if this ever needs to be done!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Admire your work and patience. Thanks for sharing this very involved repair.
I replaced this part a few years ago on my sons 2011 OB and did it without removing the dash. Got to it from underneath and hope I never have to do this ever again. I do not think my back and neck will ever be the same. 🙂
I had thiis issue and, after seeing this video dreaded the fix. I took it to my Subaru dealer and they got the job done with two hours labour. Pleasantly surprised I showed the tech this video and he shook is head saying "naaah... you don't need to do all that". Then my kids started misbehaving distracting me, the tech left to another customer and the moment all passed before I asked how he did it (and, to be honest, I'm probably never going to do this again so don't care too much). Mine is a 2012 Outback 3.6R in Australia.
Wow, nice job. We had a 2011 Outback and I wanted to meet the engineers who designed the headlight assembly replacing the low beam lamp through the wheel wells. 🤔🤔
Easiest way is to just drop the fender liner straight down, then engage veterinarian calf-birthing mode.
Yup they took a dum ass pill that day, what a pain ,thank god we can dislocate are joints
Robert…don’t know how my indy shop did it, but they replaced mine with just the lower and center stack cover and the IP removed, which I already had removed. 1 1/2 hours labor; like $235 with parts. I looked at doing it myself, but when they quoted me that price, I said “Go for it!!!” 😀
This was $320. Parts and labor, including the PCV components and install.
@@MrSubaru1387 How many hours? Obviously, your labor rate is very reasonable!
@@seanhoward8025 I charged 2hrs labor + parts.
Wow! What an awesome video. You basically laid out the entire process. Mine is making so much noise. Now I'm gonna follow this video and replace that piece. Thank you so much!!! Subscribed.
Great work. In case others are wonderful, mid-2000s Silverados have the same issue- remove the dashboard to get to all the mode doors.
Thanks for this video. I dont have this problem yet, but you did an amazing job and a great service fir everone who love subarus
Thanks for this video!
I have to replace my leaking evaporator which requires all this, plus draining coolant and removing the entire HVAC housing. Now I know to get some really long pliers for that a pillar clip. discovering that in the middle of this job would have been a very unpleasant surprise! I am definitely replacing that actuator while I'm in there.
Hello what fails it is, I still want to replace the evaporator of the A.C. cools and warms, the problem is that behind the tachometer when I turn it off makes me a noise like water…
@@RJmem0 if you hear water noise that sounds like air in the cooling system. You need to purge it and make sure your coolant is topped off.
I was lucky when I owned my Impala... BDA's were $40-80 depending on brand, and all 6 were easy to get to!
This is a job where 'patience is a virtue'
Just went through this.
The last 2 little wiring clips at the corners of the dash are a beast. The screw faces the windshield and you can't pull the dash out very far without removing them. You need a little stuby philips screwdriver, like 2" or less, then use it backwards. Lucky I had one like that. The clips behind the pillars were a pain, but not as bad as I thought with a 16" plier set.
The connector for the airbag confused me.
There is a green "button" you push to release the lock.
However you need to push it much harder than it seems. It stops like you've pressed it all the way but it requires much more force to fully release it. Only realized this after using pliers on it and it finally released.
I have to go further than this and remove the entire crash bar and hvac box to get to the evaporator. Wish there was a video for that!
Before anyone attempts this, just know that this is 100 percent can be done from underneath the steering wheel. you just need a stubby or flexible screwdriver because its very tight. Wish I have known that before wasting hours trying to remove my dash. Thanks a lot Mr Subaru you should've known better
Not ut can't be done that way, I tried and you can't even see the part
That's taking apart a significant percentage of the vehicle to replace a mode door actuator. Subaru seems to know what they're doing with the use zip-lock bags.
I did this on my 2014 Subaru Outback all thanks to your video 😂. Yeah it was as much a pain in the ass as you all think it is
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. You did a great job! This video will really help me a lot since I have to replace my heater core in my 2014 Outback.
That job is almost as bad as replacing a heater core on a 1980's Ford Taurus. With the way Subaru does their dash it looks like you will have less squeaks that the Ford after you're done. Nice job with the explanation.
Thabk you very very much for the awesome video and the very detailed procedures in all your videos.
Mine failed 2011 outback and i would have left it as it was but in chicago i need to defrost the windshield in winter and unfortunately the actuator got stuck haleay in between vent and floor settings.
Thanks to your video i completed the job in 35 mins
Thabk you
Thanks for a great video, just replaced the actuator in my 2011 Outback 3.6r, figured I'd tackle this since i was upgrading the stock stereo at the same time.
Great detailed video! Thanks for posting!
MrSubaru great job! I envy you that a job like this would take about 2 hours. For somebody like me, it would be...take off one part, spend 30 minutes researching why the next part won't come out...find it, take that apart, repeat, repeat, repeat. Then put the dash back together only to realize I forgot to plug in two things, so take the dash back out, plug them in, put the dash back in...20 hours later, 4 band-aids, one order for a couple parts I ended up breaking, and a mega-ton of aggravation, and it would get done. But, the next time, it would only take....10 hours?
That is an incredible amount of work, thank for sharing man!
From what I hear, this is the norm in GMC Cheby products
You are my hero man :) I'll probably do it to my 2014 Outback either end of this summer or next... It does the annoying click sometimes... but still works... I've been looking for a video for a long time.....
Did you do it?
I understand now why there were no previous UA-cam videos showing the 2010-14 Legacy Mode Door Actuator Replacement.
That’s a big oof. Huge thanks to MrSubaru’s time and service, and to the owner’s investment.
Great Video. I am in the middle of trying to do this repair myself. One issue I was hoping for clarification on is which plastic pins go in which grooves. I am currently stuck trying to line up the pins with the grooves. Please help
All right I finally figured out which pegs go into which channels. I made a video showing you which ones go where and it also includes a few other tips that made the job easier for me.
ua-cam.com/video/JZEdc7WUCTE/v-deo.htmlsi=o4RRQfd4ftyFFf_b
Thanks!
Thank You!
This whole dash disassemble is crazy to see I just did this to my 14 legacy to paint my trims and other parts.. it’s an Audio vehicle
Outstanding job, Mr. Subaru1387. And the Oscar goes to.. Mr Subaru1387
Oh no!!! That's got Cadillac DTS/Buick Lucerne vibes ALL over that!
Thanks Robert great information great video. Take care of yourself and Girlfriend and family and be Blessed ❤️❤️👍.
Great job! A lot of hard work. Def earned a “Like and subscribe”. I think I have to change my driver side actuator as it’s blowing out hot air and the passenger side is blowing cold. I have a 2017 forester. Should have tackled it during the spring when it wasn’t so hot outside. Great video and great details. Many thanks.
Thanks. Can hardly wait to tackle mine next week. 😅
Reasonable amount of work to replace the mode actuator. Subaru must be consulting with Audi these days when they're designing their vehicles.
Mannnn, and I'm putting off changing my blend actuator on my 2013 STI. Yeah I'm just going to be blessed and go ahead and knock that out.
Perfect I have a 2013 manual and I hope I don't have to do this. I am already having enough trouble figuring out how to remove my engine/transmission/both to fix my clutch. This engine is mounted differently than all the vids I've found. :)
It’s easy, just depends on your tools to determine which method to use
My guess is it's because the 4th gen Outbacks had EJ series engines from 2010-2012, but in 2013 switched to the FB series
hats off to you.
Like rwbishop I also HATE removing a dash. I find it almost enraging when I really start thinking about it too much. That setup needs to be designed and built differently to be able to access everything behind the dash. That being said this Subaru dash is much better designed than the last dash I did which was a GM product. In any case, cool video.
Subaru purposely designed to rip owners off.
Think I'd try to rig a manual backup cable for the next time
All done. Now were do these 5 screws go?
Its actually very simple to do this job without removing the entire dash, on the bottom of the steering colume there is a module that unplugs and unbolts to give you a bunch of room to access all 3 screws, stubby screwdriver and a couple of awkward positions and its loose, I did remove the instrument cluster to gain access to the electrical connector and it helped when lining up the vents control lever up top. Took about 90 min for my first time.
i need that video
Please upload a video 🙏🏻
Sorry guys I don't make videos, as far as removing the cluster it is the same as this video, there's a large module directly under the steering column that unplugs and removes with a couple of bolts and that's where you gain all of your access to reach up from the bottom to get to the screws.
WTH , hope my never goes bad while I owe it lol😂. You have a lot of patience.
I can easily do this up to and including the PCV valve replacement. After that .. umm, I'll leave to the pros like yourself thank you very much 🙂
Nice video. I replaced my evaporator on my 2010 outback last year on my own. Tons of work. One question. What is the brand of the electric screwdriver you’re using? Looks nice.
Really useful video, thanks v much.
I noticed the actuator you took off had some kind of lubricant in the grooves. Do you recommend us putting some lubricant in the new one before putting it in?
It’s white lithium grease. Doesn’t hurt to swear a little on the pegs to keeps them from binding.
finally, thank you!
what a massive design fail from the engineers; this is a big chunk of assembly line work...
Thanks for this video. Very helpfull and I will do the job shortly! 😊
God please protect and watch over my blend doors !
🤣🤣🤣
I just managed to partially solve this with no dashboard removing.
Remove instrument panel and we got deep and narrow access to blend door to windshield mode. In my case this was the important I needed to get back working.
So there I screwed screw to push it with force to stay open and that's it. It will forever stay in windshield and foot mode.
Thoughts on an oil catch can on the new 2.4 turbo. I have searched the u tubes cannot find much on them Subaru specific. Thanks.
anything else we can check or service with that dash out of the way?
I had to do the same job on a Lincoln Town car I used to own. Whole dash had to come out. My brother wanted me to replace the one in his truck, and I told him just sell the truck.
This isn't a subaru problem, it's a problem of shoving 10 pounds of manure in a 5 pound bag. Instead of making this part easier to change, I think it would be better if they just made it out of better materials. Because they fail in pretty much every vehicle, no matter the brand.
What a nightmare. I just did the mix door in my wife's Pathfinder and thankfully I didn't have to pull the dash or I would have had to pay $$$$ for it.
So, newer model and taking the dash out looks even more of a PITA. Taken dash out '98 Outback,RH Drive, half day, more to get it back in. You,2Hrs, counted how many you have done ?
I'm not missing this mode door activator,lol, part of auto climate control right?! Manual door activator is working just fine, no motor to fail....
I do note that the wiring harness is much neater there. So my model still has a lot of high current cabling coming to
the dash region, even though there is relays and whatnot out in the boot for lights and AC. Those connectors were a right pita for me under the dash.
I do like the orientation of the fuse panel there. Mine, on the sidewall is real hard to look at and work with.
Excellent tutorial. Seemed like you had half of your plier drawer out at one point :) I have to really be in the right frame of mind to nearly disassemble an entire dash to fix an annoyance. And I always keep my fingers crossed that nothing rattles afterwards. Sounds like the customer is willing to do what it takes to keep their old Subaru alive. Going to flush out that old nasty brake fluid next?
CVT and brakes coming at a later service appointment.
Thanks for posting this job! Curious, how long did this take in real time?
It would normally take about 2hrs. This took quite a bit longer because of filming, and my Snap-on dealer dropping by midway through. Lol
I was thinking that you could pull the cluster and radio and get to both sides of the actuator but maybe I'm thinking of an older model but I remember replacing them that way when the manual called for the whole dash r&r .. made for a decent flat rate job and helped make up for all the rusty and seized suspension parts making a 2 hour wheel bearing job into a six hour clusterfuck lol. Or maybe that was on a Forester? Idk but I definitely remember replacing them that way....
Older model 05-09 you just had to drop the glovebox and go in through the side.
I thought it was the fresh/recirc mode door that required the dash to be pulled up? For the mode door you should have access from below once you pull the lower trim panel/hush panel and then the knee protector and then the BIU. (I was poking around under the dash for some other stuff, and you can definitely lay hands on everything. That's what the service manual shows you as the procedure, as well. Is access more restricted?
Question 2010 Legacy codes P0457
P0442, Changed gas cap. codes are Still coming up. Anything you recommend?
Lol how funny I have the same blue barf bag in my glove box!
Great vid. Thanks.
If they made this plastic out of glass reinforced polymer would last forever. Same stuff glock uses in its hand guns.
Now is the time to do the passenger airbag recall Robert
Already done! 😂😂😂
So I have a 2007 LL Bean needing to have this done.....same procedure, i.e. removing the dash or could I reach that top screw through the cluster?
The 07 you can access it via the glovebox. I have a video on the 05-09 chassis.
Also during this process feel free to check your cabin air filter 🖤