Hi dude. I have a racing/road bike. Looking to alter my brakes to v type. Would I need a new set of standard handle bars? The rest is pretty straight forward just unsure about the handle bars
I love everything about this guy’s approach to repairing bikes! Super methodical, and performs all the jobs (in detail) bike enthusiasts think about, but haven’t yet done. I even notice his bare feet in the workshop - so keen to get out and work on the bike. I know the feeling! Thanks for great videos. You never fail to please!
Working on your bike after coming from work and successfully fixing or upgrading it is so satisfying, especially when you take it on that first ride after.
"This noodle doesn't need a ferrule".... Exactly what I needed to hear. I thought I was going nuts because a ferrule wasn't fitting the noodle on my mtb, and the Tektro on my bmx bike has one. Thanks a million!
I know this is an old video but, you did a great job in detail with explaining how to change out the brakes while showing how to professionally trim everything! Thanks! I bought a 2015 Trek Verve 3 about a month ago that someone took good care of and I love it! The ergonomics have been a God send to my wrists, neck and shoulders. I plan to maintain it myself and your videos are a great help! Subscribed!
very nice video, thanks for sharing... if i may add, instead of bending the return springs of the brakes 23:50 maybe relocate the other end of the spring that goes into the mounting posts' holes 4:05. *most times when a brake doesn't move like at all, a large L-R imbalance like shown with this bike, there is too much friction on the mounting post, dirt / corrosion / sometimes damage. so inspect the post and brake itself in that point and proceed accordingly.
every time i think i know what i am doing, i find one of your videos and realize i was doing it all wrong !! these simple bikes are far harder to work on than a high end road bike. i have them. they are simple to maintain and service but all these dept. store bikes are different and so varied in parts. crazy. finding an expensive new derailleur is easy but it is much harder to find dept store parts sometimes. thanks for the continuing education !!
I do use threadlocker on V/Canti brake mounting screws because: 1. You don't want them coming loose. 2. You don't want them rusting. Threadlocker, especially if you are slightly generous with it, seals the threads and keeps out water. (Not too generous!) You could grease the threads instead. That also keeps water out and, if the screws are properly tightened, they are unlikely to back out. I would not install them dry.
And again, just what I was looking for,and couldn't find anywhere on the internet.RJ saves the day !! Thanks for sharing this !! Sincere greetings from the Netherlands
This is a most informative video, well done! I had already cut my cable housing and installed the new Shimano V brakes but could not get the left (cable insert) side to move very much with brake lever applied. I tried the screw adjustments demonstrated here, but no joy. I then re-cut a new piece of housing a few inches longer, so the bend was more gradual (as demonstrated here) and my problem is solved. If you are in doubt, cut it a little longer as it's more cost effective if & when you need to trim. I also liked the use of an awl to open the cut ends, works great. Excellent video, thank you!
The three holes for the spring on the frame are actually meant to be used, instead of always using the middle hole and then bending the spring to adjust. Just try using the upper or lower holes. Otherwise, great tutorial! Thanks.
Switching holes is a pretty crude adjustment. (You saw how many times RJ adjusted the bend.) Plus, it's simpler to bend than to unscrew the bolts when you're going to have bend the springs anyway. And while RJ's frame had 3 holes, some frames only have one.
That dime trick is an absolute 10/10 idea for toeing in. I always learn something new from your videos, and I really appreciate it. That’s just my 10¢ though...
Nice simple tip for adjusting the toe in with a dime. I'd previously tried doing it with a rubber band as I'd seen in a Park tool video, but this seems easier. Learn something new every day from you, RJ!
RJ, I know this is an old video but just wanted to point out one thing. The rear brakes you were trying to adjust - you loosened the screw on the right side brake but you kept pulling the spring, and you kept tightening the screw on the left side brake, while actually you should have to tighten the screw if you want the right lever to have more movement. I think you got a bit confused there. 😉
Ello there, in adjusting the back brakes you made a mistake. You tightened and loosened the wrong screw. This explains why you did not have the right result. I would not decide to bend the spring as quick as you did! Further good video, thanks for sharing the information.
Great stuff as always RJ, I didn't toe in the break pads on my old 10 speed's caliper breaks many years ago and it twisted the entire pad into the rim, giving me a nice scar on my chin for my efforts.
Thanks - adjusting v-brakes on used bikes is such a pain. Other than checking if the wheel is centered, I bang my head trying to adjust them. This gives me a better overview! 👍
I just have to say a massive thanks for the vids you upload (read: hard work and care). I don't watch all of them, but when I need to do something on my bike, this is the first place I look. thanks again!!
I have followed your videos over the past 3 weeks and have successfully restored my 25 year old mountain bike. Thankyou for making it so easy to follow.
those Trek crmo frames are just amazing, had one for 2 years back in 90s and it was probably the most light frame i had back in the time, even lighter than aluminum frames
seriously... Nipping off those little sharpened bits of cable housing and letting them go flying onto the floor is a terrible idea when walking around barefoot. Unless, of course, you like sharp pieces of metal lodging into your feet when you least expect it. The rest of the video content is great, BTW.
What you said I found very interesting and very helpful the gear levers you have I have them on my mountain bike what I want to know is my mountain bike has a red reflector and a white do I put the cable under the reflector I would like an answer what I want to know is what is the difference between v brakes and minne v brakes
I know this is an older video but this was very insightful! Gives me a lot more confidence in converting an old Bridgestone MB-2 over from Cantilevers.
I Cannot even begin to emphasize how much BETTER these work than the Cantilever brake arrangement!! Not too long ago, I fully restored one of my BMX bikes (that I used to race in 1996, when I was 16 y/o). I REALLY wanted to keep the whole bike "period correct" for the mid 90's, but the brakes were just flat-out TERRIBLE! I figured at least I could keep the old brake parts in a box...so I went for a $12 or something shimano setup, and the cool guy at the bike shop had an old anodized purple Tech-Lite lever, sitting in is tool box that he gave me (which was awesome, since I had blue/purple factory frame decals, and blue and purple anodized parts on the entire bike)... Anyways, sorry to be rambling on! Just wanted to say, if you have small wheels (like 20" BMX) you WILL NOT regret this swap! I can lock the wheel up with my pinky finger now! :)
That looks a sweet ride. Showroom condition. What brake cable outer do you use? Any particular brand? I see it was lined. I tie a loop of rubber bamd on the brake shoe for toe in.
A neighbor was tossing (and I saved from the crusher) an older Raleigh T50 that looks a LOT like the TREK in this video. I'll be replacing the original 3 x 7 paddle shifters and center pull brakes and will be referring to this video quite a bit. Thank You! :)
Why don't run the tube down from the front all the way to the back? That way water isn't going to run in there and block the break in winter or cause rust. :)
Is the extra length of cable between the v brakes anything to worry about? Just seems excessive compared to other v brake set ups I have seen. Could this be due to the closer distance between the v brake pivots? I am almost finished with my v brake conversion on a Trek 700 with the same brake issue. Thanks for posting this video, it has been a great help.
Hello RJ, what is the model number of those V Brakes you are installing? They look like a Tektro model. Also, are CNC brand V Brakes any good or are they junk? Amazon sells a pair of CNC V Brakes for $20. Thanks for your help!
Sometimes I leave the cable hanger on. That's because sometimes I'm just lazy and can;t be bothered to take it off, or I may not have any spare spacers.
I have an old Raleigh I'd like to change to v brakes but the three little holes for the spring to fit into on the frame are on the outside of the stays, 180 degrees opposite of what your Trek is. Any suggestions?
23:32 Correct me if I'm wrong, but you're turning the screws the wrong way. When you loosen the screw, you bring the pad inwards. With new v-brakes, you dont need to bend them manually, thats a last resort fix.
+latuman Yes, but on the one side, where I would normally loosen the screw, the screw was way out. On the other side where I would normally tighten the screw, it was already screwed way in. So I evened them out and bent the spring.
+RJ The Bike Guy But wouldn't you first fix that by inserting the pin in one of the other 3 holes? Aren't there 3 for this reason? Maybe more of a hassle, though.
I had this exact problem yesterday and couldn't figure out how to fix it. The left rear pad just would not move away from the rim no matter what I did to the screws. I must have played with it for 1/2 hour. I gave up. But after watching this video I have new found hope. Since I'm on the road I will have to try this when I get home. Thanks.
I removed my caliper brakes from my Santana Arriva tandem and bought Shimano V Brakes. The new V brakes slide onto the post, but do not seat all the way. There is a difference in the internal size between the two types of brakes. How do I know what to look for to select the correct V Brakes. What are the parameter (measurements or type) to specify ?
I have. Trek 3900 with 24” wheels. I replaced the fork with a Suntour but now the brake mounts put the pads up on the side of the tire instead of the rim. Can you get different length v brake brackets so they hit on the rim? I don’t really want to go to disc but I might have to do that.
I just bought a used vbreak earlier today and i'm planning to install it tomorrow. unfortunately it doesn't have a pair of rubber boots. my question is can i still use it without rubber boots?
This is perfect! I've got an old Schwinn that somebody gave me in college, and desperately needs some upgrades. I wasn't sure if I could tackle the brake conversion, but this is an incredibly thorough tutorial! Thank you! :3
I've also seen tying a rubber band onto the brake pad, or putting several Post-It notes on the rim, to act as a temporarily attached spacer for adjusting the toe.
caliper brakes (side or center pull) are very good as long as they aren't the cheap type that hook and yank a short cable. then v brake. then old style cantilever last. With the oblique pull on cantilevers, a large portion of your pulling force is lost in the angle. As an example, you will lose 50% of your braking force with a 45 degree angle which is probably what many are. V brakes transfers almost 100% of the cable pull to the braking surface. that's physics and force vectors. I like calipers because they don't rely on frame stiffness for braking power which is the "weakness" in frame mounted v/cantilever brakes. BTW, both are technically cantilevers but the newer design is called straight pull cantilever. "V Brake" is shimano's branded name for their straight pull.
funny thing is... i use the same V-brake levers on my cantilever brakes... never need to adjust when the pads wear down cause of the double cable pull LOL... also the braking performance is twice as good as with cantilever leavers
RJ the Bike Guy, do you have any video to explain how the old Pedersen Self Energizin Cantilever Brakes work?? I"m Brasilian and Im starting to rebuilt a Old MTB Scott USA 1990 with this type of brakes. Thanks for your help!
Do you know whether long reach calipers can be converted to short reach by using adapters? My long reach brakes have dangerously weak braking power. Tried 3 types of pads already, and a a new rim, too. It just doesn't compare to my friends' shorter reach calipers that have great braking power. On another note, can calipers be converted to v-brakes? Thanks!
i love the very good ,clear detailed explanation and step by step instructions in this wonderful video, which is very helpful. Thank u very much to the video creator :) :)
RJ, great video. Even though I did my conversion a few months ago, I still enjoyed watching a professional. I had been fighting with cantilever brakes on that bike for years. I do not regret doing the conversion. The bike actually stops now. :)
+andrewford80 It is actually a very easy conversion. Wish I would have known it was that easy years ago. Would have saved me all those years of struggling with the cantilevers. Believe it or not, they went on a 12 year old "Wal-Mart" bike.
+andrewford80 I don't recall what brand I got. I actually ordered them on E-bay last year. Just got round to putting them on this spring. They weren't really that expensive. I would suggest checking your local bike shop. They might have them in stock...and for about the same cost as some you find online. Just be sure they are good quality. You really don't want a brake to fail on you due to poor quality. It is worth a few extra dollars for your safety and peace of mind.
Thank you Troy! When you are a beginner, the slightest things must be explained. Got a V-Brake kit, a chinese one, and have been hesitating to proceed. DUH.
Hello. I've got an old MBK (french brand) bicycle with Cantilever brakes. I would like to change them and have Vbrakes. I watched your video and I tried to do the same on my bicycle but the mounts are to thick (or my VBrake holes (I tried several ones) are to narrow ???) so I can't put some other brakes or the mounts. What's possible to do: Can I sand the mounts ?
I'm watching this video while searching the inter-web and came across a blog that has to be RJ. Definitely a pic of this exact bike. V brakes vs. Canti
Great video. I'm building up some old vintage mountain bikes and your videos have been very helpful so thank you. I do have a question for you regarding the wheelset on the bike you were working on. In the first minute you mentioned that it originally had 26" tires and you switched them out for 700c tires. How the heck did you do that? Both bikes I am working on were built for 26" wheels (Specialized Hardrock and Trek 850 Antelope). I wanted to switch them over to 650b tires which I thought I could do no problem but when I try to shove a 650b front wheel on either frame they just won't fit. The top of the tire is wedged under the top of the fork. I would think making the jump from 26" to 700c would be even more difficult. Am I just missing something here? Is there something special about the spacing of your Trek 720 that allows you to put on a different sized wheelset?
This is simply excellent. Very clear. Very helpful. One thing I do when replacing cables is to give the outer cable a couple of squirts of light oil. I have no idea whether it's necessary, but many years ago in a Balkan winter I had my cables freeze. Solid levers concentrate the mind very quickly. This trick seemed to stop that from happening. 😊
Thanks for the video, which is always helpful. One key question that I did not see answered: do V brakes provide more or less stopping power than cantilevers? I've read a fair amount about this question and have gotten mixed reports.
Hey RJ my name is Daniel and I was wondering if you have a tip for switching from V Shape Mechanical Dual-Pivot Brake to a standard v-brake. I'm working on a 20"mongoose brawler for my son and the gyro brakes is crap no mater what I do. The problem is the studs is to close to the seat tube to fit the v-brake arms. I bought a set of Folding Bicycle V-Caliper Extend Adapt Brake Seat Adaptor Drawer Types 406 to 451 to try I haven't got them yet but I just saw this video and thought you seamed like you have done a few modifications in your time so I thought I would see what you thought about the problem.
Ahh, the pleasure of working out of your own garage. It is a weekend ritual for a man to venture out into the garage without shoes or socks because he's got a project on his mind, not his safety! Did you put pants on just because you planned on filming?
Why should you replace cantilevers by V-brakes? In my opinion they are the worst brakes ever invented. Let me explain: I own a bike with cantilevers, it brakes fine, and the brakes never pull to one side. After this, I had 2 bikes with cantilevers, and they were a nightmare. Always out of centre, with brake pads on the rim at one side. I can adjust them, but that works only temporarily. Also, adjustment of the braking shoes is terrible. And don't think I got the wrong ones, these were Shimanos. On one bike I replaced them with Magura brakes, these are perfect! The other is for sale, and I bought a vintage bike with cantilevers - they work great - so I keep them. So, my advice would be: spend your money on Maguras or keep the cantilevers and buy yourself some beer instead.
Can the excess kable that we cut off be somehow used? Any ideas? I do everything very similar but I bend the springs at the base not in the middle and before bending I'm loosening the screws. Thank you for your videos, take care!:) Greetings from Poland:)
To everyone talking about not being able to stop with cantilever brakes - you're using the wrong levers. If you use short-pull brake levers you should be able to lift the rear wheel with cantilevers, and there's not much point in more force than that. I've never been able to get V-brakes to work as well as canti brakes - I'm not using expensive V-brakes, but I'm not using expensive cantilever brakes either (Altus). There's no reason not to do this if you're replacing broken brakes like RJ is, but the only V-brakes I've gotten to work as well as cantilevers are Shimano DX BMX racing ones.
Replaced the junk canti's my Bianchi San Jose came stock with a XTR BR-M951 V brake from ebay, I only use a rear brake on this bike. The fork is from a Pista with no brake bosses and the rear cable stop bridge was removed. Used an Avid Single Digit lever on a low rise Bontrager bar. As a wrench in various shops around my home for years, I use a business card or cut up section of a credit card to set the toe on the pads.
I love your videos I have 2 bikes around this same age. I want to upgrade the brakes. They are late 90's early 2000's Mountain bikes by trek and giant. Can you recommend a good cheaper V brake by Tektro or Shimao with levers and cabling to upgrade these bikes? like a set? also in this video you show those levers/shifter combos. My other question is both bikes have the shimano SIS shifter system. Both are 6 speed with 3 chainrings up front. What do I need to get to be compatible with the rear and front deraileur? do I have to replace them as well?
PLEASE HELP- to those with more knowledge then I on this subject. I have a Trek 720 that I rode my whole life I took it in recently to get new brakes and a tune up. I did this after noticing my cantilevers couldn’t add enough pressure to brake the bike. I noticed the plastic pieces mentioned in this video were broken too. I proceeded with the fix and after getting the bike home I noticed the new brakes on the bike were just new cantilevers but the plastic pieces that sit behind the cantilever arm and the bike frame have not been replaced. I’m afraid that this bike will work well for a year and then run into the same problem I had that made me bring the bike in for the first place. My question! Should I care… are my brakes gonna last? Are those plastic pieces important to the cantilevers? Should I complain to the owner or just shut up and ride. Any help from the community would go along way In easing my anxiety.
Very useful old post. I have a Blizzard MTB from the 1980s which needs the U brakes replaced. I would like to go the V brake route but the rear one is under the chainstay. Is there a solution, do you think?
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Hi dude. I have a racing/road bike.
Looking to alter my brakes to v type. Would I need a new set of standard handle bars? The rest is pretty straight forward just unsure about the handle bars
I love your videos if I have a problem I lock at you videos
I love everything about this guy’s approach to repairing bikes! Super methodical, and performs all the jobs (in detail) bike enthusiasts think about, but haven’t yet done. I even notice his bare feet in the workshop - so keen to get out and work on the bike. I know the feeling! Thanks for great videos. You never fail to please!
Working on your bike after coming from work and successfully fixing or upgrading it is so satisfying, especially when you take it on that first ride after.
"This noodle doesn't need a ferrule".... Exactly what I needed to hear. I thought I was going nuts because a ferrule wasn't fitting the noodle on my mtb, and the Tektro on my bmx bike has one. Thanks a million!
I know this is an old video but, you did a great job in detail with explaining how to change out the brakes while showing how to professionally trim everything! Thanks! I bought a 2015 Trek Verve 3 about a month ago that someone took good care of and I love it! The ergonomics have been a God send to my wrists, neck and shoulders. I plan to maintain it myself and your videos are a great help! Subscribed!
very nice video, thanks for sharing...
if i may add, instead of bending the return springs of the brakes 23:50 maybe relocate the other end of the spring that goes into the mounting posts' holes 4:05.
*most times when a brake doesn't move like at all, a large L-R imbalance like shown with this bike, there is too much friction on the mounting post, dirt / corrosion / sometimes damage. so inspect the post and brake itself in that point and proceed accordingly.
I would have to say your tutorial is perfect. I enjoyed watching this and felt a great sense of confidence working on my brakes. Thank you so much!
every time i think i know what i am doing, i find one of your videos and realize i was doing it all wrong !! these simple bikes are far harder to work on than a high end road bike. i have them. they are simple to maintain and service but all these dept. store bikes are different and so varied in parts. crazy. finding an expensive new derailleur is easy but it is much harder to find dept store parts sometimes.
thanks for the continuing education !!
These are NOT department store bikes. Older bikes yes, but they weren't department store bikes.
I do use threadlocker on V/Canti brake mounting screws because: 1. You don't want them coming loose. 2. You don't want them rusting. Threadlocker, especially if you are slightly generous with it, seals the threads and keeps out water. (Not too generous!)
You could grease the threads instead. That also keeps water out and, if the screws are properly tightened, they are unlikely to back out.
I would not install them dry.
And again, just what I was looking for,and couldn't find anywhere on the internet.RJ saves the day !! Thanks for sharing this !! Sincere greetings from the Netherlands
This is a most informative video, well done! I had already cut my cable housing and installed the new Shimano V brakes but could not get the left (cable insert) side to move very much with brake lever applied. I tried the screw adjustments demonstrated here, but no joy. I then re-cut a new piece of housing a few inches longer, so the bend was more gradual (as demonstrated here) and my problem is solved. If you are in doubt, cut it a little longer as it's more cost effective if & when you need to trim. I also liked the use of an awl to open the cut ends, works great. Excellent video, thank you!
The three holes for the spring on the frame are actually meant to be used, instead of always using the middle hole and then bending the spring to adjust. Just try using the upper or lower holes. Otherwise, great tutorial! Thanks.
Switching holes is a pretty crude adjustment. (You saw how many times RJ adjusted the bend.) Plus, it's simpler to bend than to unscrew the bolts when you're going to have bend the springs anyway. And while RJ's frame had 3 holes, some frames only have one.
Dime in the backside of the brake pad. That's awesome. I was just eyeballing it. 🎉
Anybody else find these vids really calming? Just wonderin
I dunno. I am banging my head against the wall somethings while making them. LOL.
That dime trick is an absolute 10/10 idea for toeing in. I always learn something new from your videos, and I really appreciate it. That’s just my 10¢ though...
it's nice to see a positive comment in youtube for a change.
I heard rubberband works too
Where was the Nickel in the handlebar grip. To keep it from ripping after a crash.
@@danc2014 nickel in handlebar grip? never heard of this
Many many thanks for that video.
Best regards from Italy.
Nice simple tip for adjusting the toe in with a dime. I'd previously tried doing it with a rubber band as I'd seen in a Park tool video, but this seems easier. Learn something new every day from you, RJ!
Didn’t learn anything. Too focused on the fact that he’s barefoot
explained real well in detail
RJ, I know this is an old video but just wanted to point out one thing. The rear brakes you were trying to adjust - you loosened the screw on the right side brake but you kept pulling the spring, and you kept tightening the screw on the left side brake, while actually you should have to tighten the screw if you want the right lever to have more movement.
I think you got a bit confused there. 😉
That's a nice and comfy saddle
I see a 1990s styled mountain bike. I would like to hear how you decided to select handlebar height. My friends lament having to bend so far forward.
Could be the bike is too big, or the seat is too far back, or other things. Google "bike fit". www.bicycling.com/skills-tips/a20036352/bike-fit-0/
hey bro, it was very fun and wonderful to follow you and learn so many things that i wasn't known before
God bless you
and Good Luck
anyone questioning this mans work and methods is really fooling themselves..I would have zero doubts letting him work on ANY bike I have..
He should probably wear shoes though ....
@@spcmnspff99 We don't have to comply with OSHA when we're at home. 😊
Ello there, in adjusting the back brakes you made a mistake. You tightened and loosened the wrong screw. This explains why you did not have the right result. I would not decide to bend the spring as quick as you did! Further good video, thanks for sharing the information.
Great stuff as always RJ, I didn't toe in the break pads on my old 10 speed's caliper breaks many years ago and it twisted the entire pad into the rim, giving me a nice scar on my chin for my efforts.
Good job there buddy! I have been building bikes for the last 30 something years! I am still learning even now with all the new stuff coming out!
Thanks - adjusting v-brakes on used bikes is such a pain. Other than checking if the wheel is centered, I bang my head trying to adjust them. This gives me a better overview! 👍
I just have to say a massive thanks for the vids you upload (read: hard work and care). I don't watch all of them, but when I need to do something on my bike, this is the first place I look. thanks again!!
I have followed your videos over the past 3 weeks and have successfully restored my 25 year old mountain bike. Thankyou for making it so easy to follow.
Great explanation
those Trek crmo frames are just amazing, had one for 2 years back in 90s and it was probably the most light frame i had back in the time, even lighter than aluminum frames
U GOT IT!!!
Good job.
So you have to change the brake levers too?!? Is it imperative to do so!?
A well made and helpful video, but dear God man put some shoes on!
He needs to be in direct contact with the floor, in order to have a right & proper stance for doing his best work.
He violates the taboos of Islam!
why?
seriously... Nipping off those little sharpened bits of cable housing and letting them go flying onto the floor is a terrible idea when walking around barefoot. Unless, of course, you like sharp pieces of metal lodging into your feet when you least expect it. The rest of the video content is great, BTW.
Yeah, he's like the guy from the "Creative Channel"
Masterclass. Thanks for sharing !! Even managed it in bare feet :) :)
What you said I found very interesting and very helpful the gear levers you have I have them on my mountain bike what I want to know is my mountain bike has a red reflector and a white do I put the cable under the reflector I would like an answer what I want to know is what is the difference between v brakes and minne v brakes
I know this is an older video but this was very insightful! Gives me a lot more confidence in converting an old Bridgestone MB-2 over from Cantilevers.
is it possible to do this without the cable clamp on the frame just a straight cable housing up on the v brake?
I LOVE YOU'RE VIDEOS GUY!🙏 GOD BLESS YOU! GOD'S BEEN TEACHING ME THROUGH YOU!☺
good video, dont worry about some out there still drinking the HATERAID. i think lots of folks out there just jealous, but very good videos for sure.
I Cannot even begin to emphasize how much BETTER these work than the Cantilever brake arrangement!!
Not too long ago, I fully restored one of my BMX bikes (that I used to race in 1996, when I was 16 y/o).
I REALLY wanted to keep the whole bike "period correct" for the mid 90's, but the brakes were just flat-out TERRIBLE!
I figured at least I could keep the old brake parts in a box...so I went for a $12 or something shimano setup, and the cool guy at the bike shop had an old anodized purple Tech-Lite lever, sitting in is tool box that he gave me (which was awesome, since I had blue/purple factory frame decals, and blue and purple anodized parts on the entire bike)...
Anyways, sorry to be rambling on! Just wanted to say, if you have small wheels (like 20" BMX) you WILL NOT regret this swap! I can lock the wheel up with my pinky finger now! :)
That looks a sweet ride. Showroom condition.
What brake cable outer do you use? Any particular brand? I see it was lined.
I tie a loop of rubber bamd on the brake shoe for toe in.
I buy housing in boxes on 100 feet. Different brands.
I literally did the same thing yesterday to a Trek 950 SingleTrack, and now it's in my Recommended.
A neighbor was tossing (and I saved from the crusher) an older Raleigh T50 that looks a LOT like the TREK in this video. I'll be replacing the original 3 x 7 paddle shifters and center pull brakes and will be referring to this video quite a bit. Thank You! :)
Why don't run the tube down from the front all the way to the back?
That way water isn't going to run in there and block the break in winter or cause rust. :)
alsternerd because it causes unwanted friction :)
Is the extra length of cable between the v brakes anything to worry about? Just seems excessive compared to other v brake set ups I have seen. Could this be due to the closer distance between the v brake pivots? I am almost finished with my v brake conversion on a Trek 700 with the same brake issue. Thanks for posting this video, it has been a great help.
Hello RJ, what is the model number of those V Brakes you are installing? They look like a Tektro model. Also, are CNC brand V Brakes any good or are they junk? Amazon sells a pair of CNC V Brakes for $20. Thanks for your help!
A well made and helpful video
thanks mate, well made tutorial
RJ it is posible to convert mtb vbrakes frame to disk brake? any adapter avalaible that you know
It's probably not worth it. You will be spending a lot of money for sub par performance.
hello RJ. I just purchase a brand new Backer bike. it makes some clicking noise from the bottom on the right when i paddle hard. please help.
Hi, Do you sell the bikes you fix? I like the trek Bikes that you have modified.
Some I sell, some I keep.
Sometimes I leave the cable hanger on. That's because sometimes I'm just lazy and can;t be bothered to take it off, or I may not have any spare spacers.
I have an old Raleigh I'd like to change to v brakes but the three little holes for the spring to fit into on the frame are on the outside of the stays, 180 degrees opposite of what your Trek is. Any suggestions?
23:32 Correct me if I'm wrong, but you're turning the screws the wrong way. When you loosen the screw, you bring the pad inwards. With new v-brakes, you dont need to bend them manually, thats a last resort fix.
+latuman Yes, but on the one side, where I would normally loosen the screw, the screw was way out. On the other side where I would normally tighten the screw, it was already screwed way in. So I evened them out and bent the spring.
+RJ The Bike Guy But wouldn't you first fix that by inserting the pin in one of the other 3 holes? Aren't there 3 for this reason? Maybe more of a hassle, though.
+latuman
Life's a hassle, enjoy the ride.
latuman r
I had this exact problem yesterday and couldn't figure out how to fix it. The left rear pad just would not move away from the rim no matter what I did to the screws. I must have played with it for 1/2 hour. I gave up. But after watching this video I have new found hope. Since I'm on the road I will have to try this when I get home. Thanks.
2:07 Did anybody else get a sweaty back just watching RJ using a large adjustable wrench while bare footed? 😬😰😅
no, he knows what he's doing.
Sir about video of 7s mid-range sprocket treaded mounting...nice video tnx
ua-cam.com/video/zHOtrzjyMHE/v-deo.html
What a shame no cables cut
I removed my caliper brakes from my Santana Arriva tandem and bought Shimano V Brakes. The new V brakes slide onto the post, but do not seat all the way. There is a difference in the internal size between the two types of brakes. How do I know what to look for to select the correct V Brakes. What are the parameter (measurements or type) to specify ?
I have. Trek 3900 with 24” wheels. I replaced the fork with a Suntour but now the brake mounts put the pads up on the side of the tire instead of the rim. Can you get different length v brake brackets so they hit on the rim? I don’t really want to go to disc but I might have to do that.
Hey RJ you have the best bike repair channel on YT, where did you buy the cool grease dispenser/gun? & what is it called so I can find one... :)
Thanks! Amazon. www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0025UGOVW/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
Good video! Helpful!
I just bought a used vbreak earlier today and i'm planning to install it tomorrow. unfortunately it doesn't have a pair of rubber boots. my question is can i still use it without rubber boots?
Yeah. They just help keep the cable and noodle clean.
This is perfect! I've got an old Schwinn that somebody gave me in college, and desperately needs some upgrades.
I wasn't sure if I could tackle the brake conversion, but this is an incredibly thorough tutorial! Thank you!
:3
RJ, What do I do if the v brake spring is snapped and won’t go into the 3 little holes?
Probably replace the v-brakes.
Awesome brother.
Great vid, helpful, thanks mate
I've also seen tying a rubber band onto the brake pad, or putting several Post-It notes on the rim, to act as a temporarily attached spacer for adjusting the toe.
Assuming you have your choice of fork/ frame, which caliper style do you prefer? - V-brake, cantilever., side pull, center-pull, other?
caliper brakes (side or center pull) are very good as long as they aren't the cheap type that hook and yank a short cable. then v brake. then old style cantilever last. With the oblique pull on cantilevers, a large portion of your pulling force is lost in the angle. As an example, you will lose 50% of your braking force with a 45 degree angle which is probably what many are. V brakes transfers almost 100% of the cable pull to the braking surface. that's physics and force vectors. I like calipers because they don't rely on frame stiffness for braking power which is the "weakness" in frame mounted v/cantilever brakes.
BTW, both are technically cantilevers but the newer design is called straight pull cantilever. "V Brake" is shimano's branded name for their straight pull.
funny thing is... i use the same V-brake levers on my cantilever brakes... never need to adjust when the pads wear down cause of the double cable pull LOL... also the braking performance is twice as good as with cantilever leavers
Last time I fitted a v brake, there was no internet let alone UA-cam. I needed this vid in 1997.
lol
thank you, this was very usefull!
RJ the Bike Guy, do you have any video to explain how the old Pedersen Self Energizin Cantilever Brakes work??
I"m Brasilian and Im starting to rebuilt a Old MTB Scott USA 1990 with this type of brakes.
Thanks for your help!
I have not worked with those.
Do you know whether long reach calipers can be converted to short reach by using adapters? My long reach brakes have dangerously weak braking power. Tried 3 types of pads already, and a a new rim, too. It just doesn't compare to my friends' shorter reach calipers that have great braking power.
On another note, can calipers be converted to v-brakes?
Thanks!
i love the very good ,clear detailed explanation and step by step instructions in this wonderful video, which is very helpful. Thank u very much to the video creator :) :)
RJ, great video. Even though I did my conversion a few months ago, I still enjoyed watching a professional. I had been fighting with cantilever brakes on that bike for years. I do not regret doing the conversion. The bike actually stops now. :)
+NJP Vlogs I need to do the same on my old bike!
+andrewford80
It is actually a very easy conversion. Wish I would have known it was that easy years ago. Would have saved me all those years of struggling with the cantilevers.
Believe it or not, they went on a 12 year old "Wal-Mart" bike.
What model v brakes did you choose and why? Suppose anything is going to be an improvement on cantilevers!
+andrewford80
I don't recall what brand I got. I actually ordered them on E-bay last year. Just got round to putting them on this spring. They weren't really that expensive.
I would suggest checking your local bike shop. They might have them in stock...and for about the same cost as some you find online. Just be sure they are good quality. You really don't want a brake to fail on you due to poor quality. It is worth a few extra dollars for your safety and peace of mind.
NJP Vlogs Thanks :)
Is there an advantage to having v-brakes as opposed to cantilever brakes?
V brakes give stronger braking.
who needs shoes anyways...
Thank you Troy! When you are a beginner, the slightest things must be explained. Got a V-Brake kit, a chinese one, and have been hesitating to proceed. DUH.
Hello. I've got an old MBK (french brand) bicycle with Cantilever brakes. I would like to change them and have Vbrakes. I watched your video and I tried to do the same on my bicycle but the mounts are to thick (or my VBrake holes (I tried several ones) are to narrow ???) so I can't put some other brakes or the mounts. What's possible to do: Can I sand the mounts ?
What do you recommend when the brake arm does not want to come off from the pivot?
Penetrating oil and working it.
I'm watching this video while searching the inter-web and came across a blog that has to be RJ. Definitely a pic of this exact bike. V brakes vs. Canti
You make the best bike videos. And give a gigantic contribution to cycling. Thanks!!!
Goog job bro....
Great video. I'm building up some old vintage mountain bikes and your videos have been very helpful so thank you. I do have a question for you regarding the wheelset on the bike you were working on. In the first minute you mentioned that it originally had 26" tires and you switched them out for 700c tires. How the heck did you do that? Both bikes I am working on were built for 26" wheels (Specialized Hardrock and Trek 850 Antelope). I wanted to switch them over to 650b tires which I thought I could do no problem but when I try to shove a 650b front wheel on either frame they just won't fit. The top of the tire is wedged under the top of the fork. I would think making the jump from 26" to 700c would be even more difficult. Am I just missing something here? Is there something special about the spacing of your Trek 720 that allows you to put on a different sized wheelset?
This is simply excellent.
Very clear.
Very helpful.
One thing I do when replacing cables is to give the outer cable a couple of squirts of light oil.
I have no idea whether it's necessary, but many years ago in a Balkan winter I had my cables freeze. Solid levers concentrate the mind very quickly. This trick seemed to stop that from happening. 😊
Thanks for the video, which is always helpful. One key question that I did not see answered: do V brakes provide more or less stopping power than cantilevers? I've read a fair amount about this question and have gotten mixed reports.
Hey RJ my name is Daniel and I was wondering if you have a tip for switching from V Shape Mechanical Dual-Pivot Brake to a standard v-brake. I'm working on a 20"mongoose brawler for my son and the gyro brakes is crap no mater what I do. The problem is the studs is to close to the seat tube to fit the v-brake arms. I bought a set of Folding Bicycle V-Caliper Extend Adapt Brake Seat Adaptor Drawer Types 406 to 451 to try I haven't got them yet but I just saw this video and thought you seamed like you have done a few modifications in your time so I thought I would see what you thought about the problem.
I love ur shoes man!
The King’s New Shoes😂
Ahh, the pleasure of working out of your own garage. It is a weekend ritual for a man to venture out into the garage without shoes or socks because he's got a project on his mind, not his safety! Did you put pants on just because you planned on filming?
LOL
Why should you replace cantilevers by V-brakes? In my opinion they are the worst brakes ever invented. Let me explain: I own a bike with cantilevers, it brakes fine, and the brakes never pull to one side. After this, I had 2 bikes with cantilevers, and they were a nightmare. Always out of centre, with brake pads on the rim at one side. I can adjust them, but that works only temporarily. Also, adjustment of the braking shoes is terrible.
And don't think I got the wrong ones, these were Shimanos.
On one bike I replaced them with Magura brakes, these are perfect! The other is for sale, and I bought a vintage bike with cantilevers - they work great - so I keep them.
So, my advice would be: spend your money on Maguras or keep the cantilevers and buy yourself some beer instead.
Can the excess kable that we cut off be somehow used? Any ideas? I do everything very similar but I bend the springs at the base not in the middle and before bending I'm loosening the screws. Thank you for your videos, take care!:) Greetings from Poland:)
To everyone talking about not being able to stop with cantilever brakes - you're using the wrong levers. If you use short-pull brake levers you should be able to lift the rear wheel with cantilevers, and there's not much point in more force than that. I've never been able to get V-brakes to work as well as canti brakes - I'm not using expensive V-brakes, but I'm not using expensive cantilever brakes either (Altus). There's no reason not to do this if you're replacing broken brakes like RJ is, but the only V-brakes I've gotten to work as well as cantilevers are Shimano DX BMX racing ones.
Replaced the junk canti's my Bianchi San Jose came stock with a XTR BR-M951 V brake from ebay, I only use a rear brake on this bike. The fork is from a Pista with no brake bosses and the rear cable stop bridge was removed. Used an Avid Single Digit lever on a low rise Bontrager bar. As a wrench in various shops around my home for years, I use a business card or cut up section of a credit card to set the toe on the pads.
I love your videos I have 2 bikes around this same age. I want to upgrade the brakes. They are late 90's early 2000's Mountain bikes by trek and giant. Can you recommend a good cheaper V brake by Tektro or Shimao with levers and cabling to upgrade these bikes? like a set? also in this video you show those levers/shifter combos. My other question is both bikes have the shimano SIS shifter system. Both are 6 speed with 3 chainrings up front. What do I need to get to be compatible with the rear and front deraileur? do I have to replace them as well?
PLEASE HELP- to those with more knowledge then I on this subject. I have a Trek 720 that I rode my whole life I took it in recently to get new brakes and a tune up. I did this after noticing my cantilevers couldn’t add enough pressure to brake the bike. I noticed the plastic pieces mentioned in this video were broken too. I proceeded with the fix and after getting the bike home I noticed the new brakes on the bike were just new cantilevers but the plastic pieces that sit behind the cantilever arm and the bike frame have not been replaced. I’m afraid that this bike will work well for a year and then run into the same problem I had that made me bring the bike in for the first place. My question! Should I care… are my brakes gonna last? Are those plastic pieces important to the cantilevers? Should I complain to the owner or just shut up and ride. Any help from the community would go along way In easing my anxiety.
Duh. Where is a V-brake mounted on? A cantilever! V-brake is a specific type of cantilever brake, nothing else.
Can this be done to a 800 Antelope? if so, is there a certain set of v brakes to get?
Yes. No.
Very useful old post. I have a Blizzard MTB from the 1980s which needs the U brakes replaced. I would like to go the V brake route but the rear one is under the chainstay. Is there a solution, do you think?
Video changing V-brakes to Cantilever style brakes, the v-brakes get clogged with mud...