I have used K&N filters for decades. I clean and re-oil them on a pretty aggressive schedule, but that is me. I have never had an issue with a MAF sensor because I actually followed the instructions and do not believe that more of something is better. The engineers who designed these products know more than I do so I defer to their wisdom. It works every time. I have never had an issue related to wear either. My understanding is the vibration of the engine optimizes the filtering of these filters.
The paper air filter was created to make maintenance faster for mechanics and less costly for the auto manufacturers. Before paper filters the air filtration was handled with an oil bath air filtration system, but they were messy to deal with and time is money for the labor to do the correct servicing of these units. A lot of the time the mechanics didn't want to do the service on these units and they would just skip it and still charge you. The last vehicle I owned with the oil bath filter was a 1964 Ford F100 and the throat of the carburetor was always clean; no dirt ever. Your air filter was a fresh quart of nondetergent motor oil after cleaning the housing. The guy that developed the K&N filter was a desert racer and he grew tired of engines sucking sand (sharp edged grains), cutting through the paper and eating his engines. This is an easier solution to not having an oil bath filter that can't be used in desert racing for the obvious reasons. Media filters are better than they once were and meet the noise emissions better than a K&N. Most paper filters don't get checked enough and changed when they need it and a low quality unit might get installed too.
I wash and clean my k&n before lunch then let it dry till the next morning. Then I reoil it then let if sit over night again where any excess oil can drain off before I put it back. Mean while I put a stock paper filter in till done.
Being a filter representative for +20 years, visiting countless industrial sites that use them in gas and liquid services to protect downstream equip. and maximize production, here is my response to your video. A pretty good video and one has a right to their opinion. Based on my experiences, I would not use cotton for this and many other applications because the fibers are larger by comparison to excelsior (paper media) which is what most disposable consumer filters are made of, and cotton fibers also typically have inconsistent pore size along the length and diameter of the entire element. Those larger fibers (cotton) also cause higher clean dP as well and also stretch/shift as dP rises across the media as it loads up (pores open up resulting in unloading of contaminants on the downstream side of the filter. Now, regarding the oil that is applied to these washable filters, they pose their own issues and its so-called perfect application is likely simply never ...perfect, leaving opportunity for bypass. Also that oil will likely "foul" the flow sensor and other downstream wetted components over time; what benefit is that? As you correctly said at the beginning, the disposable dry filter and its media likely meets specific efficacy standards (X micron size and larger @ 95 or 97 or 99% for example) versus the very porous oiled type K&N style filters that make wild claims and lean on the oil to help with that but who is going to apply that oil perfectly anyway?Did you know that even minute increases in contaminant within oil (refer to a Lube Oil ISO Code chart) can dramatically increase component scarring, abrasion, wear, spalling (definitions like that) and then those newer created particles themselves further add to already present particles enhancing the deterioration of engine components prematurely and result in $$$$ maintenance and shorter life, period. I suggest sticking with a high quality disposable dry filter, and yes it would be nice if they offered more than just paper (excelsior) media, and offer other media materials like glass fiber. Yet, thanks for the video anyway.
This comment is spot on. One thing I've noticed when looking at all the videos that compare these 2 filter styles they will have a 15-40% increase in iron inside of their oil. They'll always focus on silicon (sand) which has a larger particle size than the iron, and will get caught in the oil filter. However the iron is much smaller and sneaks through. This shows an insane amount of increased wear that nobody should be okay with
They do. I bought an attack blue nanotechnology, dry filter. But I can't really find a great video with THAT vs K&N. The haltch intake for my Corvette with this new filter is like $700+ if you want carbon etc etc
If you buy a reusable filter? K&N. Definitely read the instructions!! It requires that you allow it to dry and don't over oil the filter. I don't know if the lifetime changes on open filter applications on bikes. But they do last a lot longer than. Standard replacement filters. If you can clean windows. You can clean a filter in 30 mins. Just don't power wash it and allow it to dry.
When i clicked dry vs oil filter I wasnt expecting paper vs oil. Please either correct the title or do another video comparing oil filter and the equivalent dry filter.
The best "filter" will be the most restrictive. The best "performing" filter will be least restrictive. The more restrictive filters filter better, the less restrictive filters filter less, & let more potentially damaging particles into the engine. In spite of the manufacturer's claims, UA-cam is full of videos showing how much poorer the "Performance" filters filter. One way of overcoming the performance hit of more restrictive filters would be to increase the filtering area, so that you would be trying to pull less air per filter unit area. This means filters in parallel, not in series or stacked on top of each other, which would further hurt performance. Theoretically, filters in parallel would half the restriction, while not hurting the filtering performance, while filters in series (stacked) would double restriction, while increasing the filtering performance. I know that the space in modern cars is limited under the hood, but I'm waiting for someone to market vortex dust separating intakes, al la Dyson style vacuum cleaners. It would be interesting to see what the performance hit of these kinds of filters would be, or if they could be designed to filter better, while not hurting performance.
Great video! I recently installed the Holley Intech dual air “Hammerhead" intake tube that provides maximum air flow and velocity to feed the LS1. The large, high flow, washable and reusable 4-layer dry air filters eliminate the use of filter oils. It looks great in my C5. Seemed to gain some performance and little louder exhaust note.
During the manufacturing of vehicles (MES) is used minimum efficient scale right down to the washers, from one year to the next you will notice slight changes done to a vehicle at the manufacturer these changes aren't to improve anything unless there was a recall on something but its to save them costs building them as to stay competitive in the market or just to stuff their pockets with as much cash as posable, so really any aftermarket upgrades you do to your vehicle is an improvement. I prefer the oilless washable filters, I clean them every oil change which is once a year no matter how many miles the oil claims its good till.
Good info... Has anyone mentioned that you sound and talk just like Micheal Keaton? ( the actor) Anyways...But what about a " Dry Synthetic" High flow media type Filter vs Oiled-gauze type filter? Afe, Aem, etc. Also, power increase, cfm/airflow properties, lifespan, cost/benefit analysis?
you keep saying dry and oiled, but you're really talking about oiled vs paper. I was looking for washable oiled vs washable dry air filters like AFE's pro S and Pro 5R.
Avoid the oiled filters at all cost. A dry, replaceable filter (AEM is one) only requires occasional cleaning. Oil filters will cause a number of issues with your MAF sensor wires as oil is transferred onto the sensor (even minute amounts will affect drivability)!
Thanks so much. This is what I was looking for. I'm about to order the AFE Momentum GT cold air intake for My 2022 Durango RT and was undecisive about dry vs oil filter. Going with the dry filter all the way!
Thanks for the tip. I was about to oil the filter on my Audi S4 supercharged, but the website specifically states do not oil filters on forced air-induction vehicles.
Would also like seeing a dry performance filter vs oiled performance filter. A dry aftermarket is going to tend to outperform the paper OEM filter, but how much better is the oiled filter?
Awesome video Scott! I have a Attack Blue/non-oiled air filter (haven't installed it yet, on my C7 GS) What do you think of that filter?? I currently have a oiled K&N installed.. I believe, I got 10% off from Justin/HPO for the Attack Blue filter (last year).. Like to know your thoughts on it.. Thanks!
Yes I am aware of the system that cancels cylinders! I learning everything I can on that. Along with using synthetic oil and keeping cooling system cleaned and serviced! GM had that system yrs ago on Cadillac, it was garbage, plus it had an aluminum block! Back to my Ram, it only had 52k and super clean! I purchased a quality scanner, but I need to find out if any tuning was performed on vehicle. I will definitely try to disable that multi cylinder displacement! I take great care of my vehicle and want to keep it running good! I may take it to a good Ram mechanic to see if any performance changes were made on it. With the cold air intake and Flow master exhaust...I don't know what tuning changes were made, but it's a beautiful truck!
I just bought a 2022 Genesis G70 3.3T Sport Prestige and the first thing I would like to do is a cold air. I’m curious does a cold air for a turbo need to be a dry filter? Been looking around and haven’t found anything yet. Thanks.
I brought truck with K&N used! It is a black filter, how do I know if it's a dry type or oil type filter. It has the wire construction, but it is black and I can't tell if it's requires oil
I have K&N select Dry filter for my 2016 5.7 Hemi Ram I can notice more foot response and better sound I have ran K&N the one you oil I always had problems with those I wash my K&N select dry with Dawn dishwasher soap
My Fiesta ST 150 had a cracked intake tube on the original setup. The rest of the intake System is also an engine Cover, so it sits on top of the engine. It's restrictive by itself and this tube by itself costs around 300€. Insane. I bought an oiled cone filter and after 2000km after inspecting, the inside of the intake pipe was bone dry. No oil went inside. It was supposed to be lightly oiled, not soaked in oil. And it all costed a third of the price of the original part.
Judging by the relative diameters, I doubt your assumption that the oiled filter is larger. It's a little longer, but you have to consider total surface area, not just the length.
@@Team512 - Hmmmm, update on you (hope all is well there of course), plans on the future, car update, then let's talk headers to go with your exhaust, them maybe heads/cam. Just the basics. :-)
I bought an S&b oil filter kit for my '12 toyota tacoma, can't wait to install it, feel and hear the difference over my stock restrictive air filter 🤘🏾😎🤘🏾
So hopefully some one can help me. I live in west Texas and I’m wondering if I should get a oiled or dry filter. I feel like the oil will be good but the dry will be more restrictive so the dust won’t get in. But I’m more worried about the heat and stuff.
What if you have a air filter but dont know if it’s oiled or not? If anyone can tell me how to identify them separately I’d appreciate it! (It’s a mishimoto one if that changes anything)
I quit using oil filters on my vette there bottom feeders and suck everything off the road I had a plastic bag suck up and kill the enguine the radiator gets alot of crap also ..
Thanks for your time and information you provide I have a 2003 Ford Lightning with a Magnum Force intake I bought this truck recently with 27,000 original miles I need do a smog test they asked for the part code I guess a CARB code I emailed AFE who brands my cold intake It’s probably some 12 years old or more Is there better newer Cold Air intakes ? Thank you
yes sir, oiled for me. i can attest to even the small changes reflect in the tune, an intake and gutting the cats made quite a difference in the airflow tables on my car.
I have used K&N filters for decades. I clean and re-oil them on a pretty aggressive schedule, but that is me. I have never had an issue with a MAF sensor because I actually followed the instructions and do not believe that more of something is better. The engineers who designed these products know more than I do so I defer to their wisdom. It works every time. I have never had an issue related to wear either. My understanding is the vibration of the engine optimizes the filtering of these filters.
The paper air filter was created to make maintenance faster for mechanics and less costly for the auto manufacturers. Before paper filters the air filtration was handled with an oil bath air filtration system, but they were messy to deal with and time is money for the labor to do the correct servicing of these units. A lot of the time the mechanics didn't want to do the service on these units and they would just skip it and still charge you. The last vehicle I owned with the oil bath filter was a 1964 Ford F100 and the throat of the carburetor was always clean; no dirt ever. Your air filter was a fresh quart of nondetergent motor oil after cleaning the housing. The guy that developed the K&N filter was a desert racer and he grew tired of engines sucking sand (sharp edged grains), cutting through the paper and eating his engines. This is an easier solution to not having an oil bath filter that can't be used in desert racing for the obvious reasons. Media filters are better than they once were and meet the noise emissions better than a K&N. Most paper filters don't get checked enough and changed when they need it and a low quality unit might get installed too.
I wash and clean my k&n before lunch then let it dry till the next morning. Then I reoil it then let if sit over night again where any excess oil can drain off before I put it back. Mean while I put a stock paper filter in till done.
Being a filter representative for +20 years, visiting countless industrial sites that use them in gas and liquid services to protect downstream equip. and maximize production, here is my response to your video. A pretty good video and one has a right to their opinion. Based on my experiences, I would not use cotton for this and many other applications because the fibers are larger by comparison to excelsior (paper media) which is what most disposable consumer filters are made of, and cotton fibers also typically have inconsistent pore size along the length and diameter of the entire element. Those larger fibers (cotton) also cause higher clean dP as well and also stretch/shift as dP rises across the media as it loads up (pores open up resulting in unloading of contaminants on the downstream side of the filter. Now, regarding the oil that is applied to these washable filters, they pose their own issues and its so-called perfect application is likely simply never ...perfect, leaving opportunity for bypass. Also that oil will likely "foul" the flow sensor and other downstream wetted components over time; what benefit is that? As you correctly said at the beginning, the disposable dry filter and its media likely meets specific efficacy standards (X micron size and larger @ 95 or 97 or 99% for example) versus the very porous oiled type K&N style filters that make wild claims and lean on the oil to help with that but who is going to apply that oil perfectly anyway?Did you know that even minute increases in contaminant within oil (refer to a Lube Oil ISO Code chart) can dramatically increase component scarring, abrasion, wear, spalling (definitions like that) and then those newer created particles themselves further add to already present particles enhancing the deterioration of engine components prematurely and result in $$$$ maintenance and shorter life, period. I suggest sticking with a high quality disposable dry filter, and yes it would be nice if they offered more than just paper (excelsior) media, and offer other media materials like glass fiber. Yet, thanks for the video anyway.
This comment is spot on.
One thing I've noticed when looking at all the videos that compare these 2 filter styles they will have a 15-40% increase in iron inside of their oil.
They'll always focus on silicon (sand) which has a larger particle size than the iron, and will get caught in the oil filter. However the iron is much smaller and sneaks through.
This shows an insane amount of increased wear that nobody should be okay with
They do. I bought an attack blue nanotechnology, dry filter. But I can't really find a great video with THAT vs K&N. The haltch intake for my Corvette with this new filter is like $700+ if you want carbon etc etc
Thanks for the insight. As always you have to dig to find credible information.
What’s a high quality dry filter?
@@MarvFitBikesKicks Check out "project farm air filter' on u tube.
If you buy a reusable filter? K&N. Definitely read the instructions!! It requires that you allow it to dry and don't over oil the filter. I don't know if the lifetime changes on open filter applications on bikes. But they do last a lot longer than. Standard replacement filters. If you can clean windows. You can clean a filter in 30 mins. Just don't power wash it and allow it to dry.
When i clicked dry vs oil filter I wasnt expecting paper vs oil.
Please either correct the title or do another video comparing oil filter and the equivalent dry filter.
The best "filter" will be the most restrictive. The best "performing" filter will be least restrictive. The more restrictive filters filter better, the less restrictive filters filter less, & let more potentially damaging particles into the engine. In spite of the manufacturer's claims, UA-cam is full of videos showing how much poorer the "Performance" filters filter.
One way of overcoming the performance hit of more restrictive filters would be to increase the filtering area, so that you would be trying to pull less air per filter unit area. This means filters in parallel, not in series or stacked on top of each other, which would further hurt performance. Theoretically, filters in parallel would half the restriction, while not hurting the filtering performance, while filters in series (stacked) would double restriction, while increasing the filtering performance.
I know that the space in modern cars is limited under the hood, but I'm waiting for someone to market vortex dust separating intakes, al la Dyson style vacuum cleaners. It would be interesting to see what the performance hit of these kinds of filters would be, or if they could be designed to filter better, while not hurting performance.
YOu mean Donaldson cyclonic air filter housings?
Oiled filters seem to let more dirt through in my experience.
Use dry filters only Wipe your finger on the inside of the inside of the intake too they'll be a bunch of dirt That's what I have😡 witnessed
Great info, Scott. This is a topic I see come up often!
Thanks man! Yeah I've fielded this question quite a bit and figured a quick vid would help answer it.
So I got a AEM CAI and says no cleaning necessary for 100,000 miles any truth to that I'm a city driver no off road anyone lmk
Great video! I recently installed the Holley Intech dual air “Hammerhead" intake tube that provides maximum air flow and velocity to feed the LS1. The large, high flow, washable and reusable 4-layer dry air filters eliminate the use of filter oils. It looks great in my C5. Seemed to gain some performance and little louder exhaust note.
Nice man! I noticed a defined sound difference in the exhaust.
During the manufacturing of vehicles (MES) is used minimum efficient scale right down to the washers, from one year to the next you will notice slight changes done to a vehicle at the manufacturer these changes aren't to improve anything unless there was a recall on something but its to save them costs building them as to stay competitive in the market or just to stuff their pockets with as much cash as posable, so really any aftermarket upgrades you do to your vehicle is an improvement. I prefer the oilless washable filters, I clean them every oil change which is once a year no matter how many miles the oil claims its good till.
Good info... Has anyone mentioned that you sound and talk just like Micheal Keaton? ( the actor)
Anyways...But what about a " Dry Synthetic" High flow media type Filter vs Oiled-gauze type filter? Afe, Aem, etc. Also, power increase, cfm/airflow properties, lifespan, cost/benefit analysis?
All crapp people, just buy Green Filter and your car will thank you.
you keep saying dry and oiled, but you're really talking about oiled vs paper. I was looking for washable oiled vs washable dry air filters like AFE's pro S and Pro 5R.
Avoid the oiled filters at all cost. A dry, replaceable filter (AEM is one) only requires occasional cleaning. Oil filters will cause a number of issues with your MAF sensor wires as oil is transferred onto the sensor (even minute amounts will affect drivability)!
Thanks so much. This is what I was looking for. I'm about to order the AFE Momentum GT cold air intake for My 2022 Durango RT and was undecisive about dry vs oil filter. Going with the dry filter all the way!
Thanks for the tip. I was about to oil the filter on my Audi S4 supercharged, but the website specifically states do not oil filters on forced air-induction vehicles.
Makes sense
You have to let the oil wick into the filter people. Wtf and dry the cleaner out of it completely before oiling
This isn’t true
Would also like seeing a dry performance filter vs oiled performance filter. A dry aftermarket is going to tend to outperform the paper OEM filter, but how much better is the oiled filter?
The cotton oiled filter has slightly better air flow.
I’d like to see a test on this as well. There’s several performance intake/filter companies now that offer both.
@@jlbush8249 i think the phrase you're looking for is "slightly better sand flow"
I had an Afe dry filter and noticed fine dust in the air box went back to OEM and no fine dust so the kind of sucks at filtering
Awesome video Scott! I have a Attack Blue/non-oiled air filter (haven't installed it yet, on my C7 GS) What do you think of that filter?? I currently have a oiled K&N installed.. I believe, I got 10% off from Justin/HPO for the Attack Blue filter (last year).. Like to know your thoughts on it.. Thanks!
Yes I am aware of the system that cancels cylinders! I learning everything I can on that. Along with using synthetic oil and keeping cooling system cleaned and serviced! GM had that system yrs ago on Cadillac, it was garbage, plus it had an aluminum block! Back to my Ram, it only had 52k and super clean! I purchased a quality scanner, but I need to find out if any tuning was performed on vehicle. I will definitely try to disable that multi cylinder displacement! I take great care of my vehicle and want to keep it running good! I may take it to a good Ram mechanic to see if any performance changes were made on it. With the cold air intake and Flow master exhaust...I don't know what tuning changes were made, but it's a beautiful truck!
I just bought a 2022 Genesis G70 3.3T Sport Prestige and the first thing I would like to do is a cold air. I’m curious does a cold air for a turbo need to be a dry filter? Been looking around and haven’t found anything yet. Thanks.
I brought truck with K&N used! It is a black filter, how do I know if it's a dry type or oil type filter. It has the wire construction, but it is black and I can't tell if it's requires oil
I don't think k&n make a dry filter at all
I have K&N select Dry filter for my 2016 5.7 Hemi Ram I can notice more foot response and better sound I have ran K&N the one you oil I always had problems with those I wash my K&N select dry with Dawn dishwasher soap
Thanks for sharing your experience!
Nice vid. I would like to see possibly a future vid on a comparison between an AEM Performance DryFlow filter, K&N oiled, COBB oiled etc.
Dry or Oiled? Which one do you use? Check out the Cold Air Intakes on our site: five12garage.com/search?q=COLD+AIR&options%5Bprefix%5D=last
Scott. Explain to others about the Dry Flow Cold Air Intakes from Injen Technology as well.
Thanks Scott! Info is appreciated!Definitely need to update the filter on the C5!!
We all know size does matter.!!!!
My Fiesta ST 150 had a cracked intake tube on the original setup. The rest of the intake System is also an engine Cover, so it sits on top of the engine. It's restrictive by itself and this tube by itself costs around 300€. Insane. I bought an oiled cone filter and after 2000km after inspecting, the inside of the intake pipe was bone dry. No oil went inside. It was supposed to be lightly oiled, not soaked in oil. And it all costed a third of the price of the original part.
What about aftermarket washable dry filters?
Judging by the relative diameters, I doubt your assumption that the oiled filter is larger. It's a little longer, but you have to consider total surface area, not just the length.
Sooooo, when are you coming back, Scott? This channel is too good for it to stay dormant!
Thank so much! Any topics you’d like to see discussed?
@@Team512 - Hmmmm, update on you (hope all is well there of course), plans on the future, car update, then let's talk headers to go with your exhaust, them maybe heads/cam. Just the basics. :-)
It’s paper vs oiled not dry vs oiled. Dry filters are different and where the industry has shifted more too.
If you skip every 20 seconds he repeatedly says how much you have to keep it keep thru the whole video. 😂
I bought an S&b oil filter kit for my '12 toyota tacoma, can't wait to install it, feel and hear the difference over my stock restrictive air filter 🤘🏾😎🤘🏾
So hopefully some one can help me. I live in west Texas and I’m wondering if I should get a oiled or dry filter. I feel like the oil will be good but the dry will be more restrictive so the dust won’t get in. But I’m more worried about the heat and stuff.
I can't find a K%N vs the °New dry Nano Attack blue. I've been looking awhile!
What if you have a air filter but dont know if it’s oiled or not? If anyone can tell me how to identify them separately I’d appreciate it! (It’s a mishimoto one if that changes anything)
thankyou! im order intakes for my Z and was confused ab this, im gonna go dry for simplicity
You forgot to mention after market dry filters !! I think they are the best of both worlds !!!
Oil is already going pass the MAF unless it's an older car.
The crank case is vented in to the air intake.
That is why people use catch cans.
Do uall offer a dry filter that replaces the s n b and fits in the box for a 2020 ford f 150 2.7?
Do you have data of a same application where the paper filter performs better (more air flow) than a oiled gauze media?
Thanks good video, I'm looking at getting Cai, having a hard time deciding, you make one for a G70 3.3.3t
Can you clean a oiled filter and just use it as a dry filter?
Very informative video 👍
Thank you!
But then you have the AEM Dryflow that is the best of both worlds.
Who the hell wants to do vehicle maintenance!?!
thank you.
Great video the extra money cone 👍 filter is worth it vrs paper
I quit using oil filters on my vette there bottom feeders and suck everything off the road I had a plastic bag suck up and kill the enguine the radiator gets alot of crap also ..
Lol.. how tf did a bag get sucked up through a filter? You fucked big time 😂 must have left the clamp lose and the filter fell off
amazing video, and thank you for the info.
You got it!
Thank you for the infos
you closed your shop.?
Im stupid i installed a cold air intake and i never oiled it
😭
Thanks for the Information!
That logo is dope!
I tend to just replace my oil filters with a new one vs cleaning and reusing... I sell the dirty one for a few $$...I sleep better.
same here, a Dinan flat panel filter is $29, I replace it twice/year and sell the old one for $5-$10...... never need to worry about reoiling too.
Can you put a small amount of oil on a k&n oiless
If it is cotton and not paper.
Thanks for your time and information you provide
I have a 2003 Ford Lightning with a Magnum Force intake I bought this truck recently with 27,000 original miles
I need do a smog test they asked for the part code I guess a CARB code
I emailed AFE who brands my cold intake
It’s probably some 12 years old or more
Is there better newer Cold Air intakes ?
Thank you
yes sir, oiled for me. i can attest to even the small changes reflect in the tune, an intake and gutting the cats made quite a difference in the airflow tables on my car.
Love it man! Real world feedback. 👍
Thought you would compare an oiled filter and a dry aftermarket similar to AFe type not OEM.
Looks like you used oil to clean that TV.
Hahaha!!!
I don’t even have a corvette but this video help it a lot. New sup!♥️