I run a K&N filter, but I don't believe it offers any improvement over an OEM filter - I do it because throwing away an OEM filter every 30,000km seems less environmentally friendly than using the same filter for the life of the vehicle.
I have been using K&N filters for more than 25 years, having sold 1 car with 212,000 miles on it (Lexus) and did not use any oil between 6,000 mile oil changes without a single problem with engine wear, MAF sensors, and, cleaning the K&N air filter about every 30,000 miles. I agree that if one drives in a very dusty environment, this might cause increased engine wear, but in city driving which is mostly what I do, there has never been a problems, and the cost of paper replacement filters on my cars, were many multiples of the cost of one K&N filter and it's cleaning kit, which has lasted now about 14 years (the kit). These are in my opinion, valid points to consider when using these kinds of filters. The horsepower increases very from none to well documented increases depending on the motor they are placed on.
Simply don't fucking oil it yourself. Just throw it out and buy a new one. Besides it's fine for 100k. After that sell your dam car 😂 Problem solved. 😂
this guy is right on the money with the maf. replaced my air filter to the kn and turned out my car couldn't pass emission and was throwing p0172 codes. had to replace maf sensor yesterday. cleaned the air filter and will switch back to paper next week when I have time
Cleaning the MAF sensor (with CRC Mass air flow sensor cleaner) would have stopped the problem and clearing the code would have made your car pass the test.
i picked up a 2022 TUNDRA k&N air filter and am getting lower MPG crazy..it just sounds slightly better when i punch on the accelerator..changing back to OEM
I just cleaned my K&N for the first time. I liked it when I first bought it. It gave the car a bit raspier sound, but after cleaning it today Im considering going back to an OE Denso or Wix. Damn K&Ns take foreever to dry and the cleaning kit is more expensive than a new Denso or Wix for my car.
I heard what I wanted to hear, a true revision that matches the mechanic exact words: Sports air filters are in opposition with engine longevity. Thank you!
You get much more filtering from a K & N filter. Aprox 2% more horsepower from your rated engines horsepower and Aprox 3% more torque. It's definitely more of a throaty sound with full acceleration. I have changed to this filter on the last 8 vehicles I have owned. There is a noticeable difference. This young man testing this could not be more wrong...On every level!!!
Chicken wire as a filter makes a big difference in performance. But it lets in stuff 1 inch and less into your engine. And, never alter your intake system. The OEM system was set up by automotive engineers who practice the black art of fluid dynamics. Backyard Jethro mods are ignorant, especially while drinking Mountain Dew!
Did you bother checking your intake after the filter? If you aren't seeing any build-up, it's working. I like reusing an air filter. I think it's wasteful to toss the filter every year.
Micro particles of dirt aren't going to harm anything. The problem with those micro particles is that they stick to oil that gets into your intake from the blowby of the engine. So if you want the best of both worlds, get the K&N filter and an oil catch can. Especially on a GDI (gasoline direct injection) engine or a turbocharged engine. If you have nothing for the mirco particles to stick to, then they'll just flow into the engine, get burned and get pushed through the exhaust. Both will allow your engine to breathe better, and stay cleaner. Which will increase the longevitiy of the engine
if you're super rich and don't care about making an engine last a long time for the next poor owner then sure use K&N... but if you care about your car and want the engine to last a long time paper is the way to go. Having said that, you wouldn't just change the air filter to increase performance, but use it within a stage 2/stage 3 package adding up all the small and not so small gains together.
Manufacturers already invested a lot of time and money designing the most efficient and safe intakes, they do take into account sound restrictions and cost so what you can do is always use aluminum straight pipes where possible and removel all the resonators, you can even find a paper cone filter such as the one found in the honda S2000.
I have a 2013 Camry. I use a FRAM air filter, just because its sold at Cdn Tire and its the easiest thing to buy. I live in a city and don't drive on dusty and dirty roads, so the filter only get replaced every 2 years. I considered buying a K&N but didn't see any benefit over what is now 10 years. I have paid roughly $75.00 for FRAM air filters or I could have paid roughly $75.00 for a K&N in 2013 + the extra cost of the cleaning solution. I agree the WIX is a better filter, then the FRAM. In the long run, living in Ottawa, I have never lost an engine or a car from a cheep air filter, but RUST is a different story! (I wish we could filter the salt)
The only reason I got it because it last 100,000 miles and I clean it every 10k-15k .it's in a 4runner no dirt roads maybe once a month but usually regular roads . So should I just go back to the white filters I have 90k I'm the original owner I'm was going to buy another one next oil change but now I'm thinking twice?
I ditched my k&n air filter on my sport bike (carb) it was letting too much air into the air box and messed with the air/fuel mixture. maybe if i jetted the carbs and adjusted mixture screws it would be ok.
That's what I wanna know. I just put an AEM dry drop in filter into my 24' Civic that I just bought with 1 mile on the odometer. We'll see if the engine explodes at 10k miles.
If you are driving a 45 hp motorcycle and a high flow filter bumps you up to 50 hp, you may feel a difference. If you are driving a 245 hp car and a high flow air filter bumps you up to 250 hp, you probably will not notice.
It makes sense and I have a 2023 hHonda Civic Si and I have a K&N for it but decided to return back to the paper filter after only 400 miles just because automobiles are just too expensive to even allow a little dirt into your engine . I’ve never had any issue with K&N and have used them on a bunch of cars I’ve had but the engines today are small and very powerful and it just makes sense to run them as they are intended to run .
@@executiveinvestments OEM oil filters are legitimately well made. Do you need a K n M oil filter with 10x the casing burst strength of OEM? I guess so if your oil pressure is 1200 psi at idle, lol.
@@executiveinvestments filtration nos great on my own filtersm.ypu must be thinking about cheap Fram _&#&#. I've run cars and trucks on factory air and oil filters (OEM) and have averaged 300k miles, some going nearly 450k. OEM filters meet engineer.specs for filtration, casing strength, anti drain valve and sealing. You might want to do more research on what OEM means. Filters like knN tout things like burst strength and anti drain but again, for non modified/track cars,OEM is all they need. I have done my research and have been rebuilding cars and engines since 1979 or so. You are confused about OEM and cheap aftermarket crap I think.
A freer filter never works alone nor can we demand results from it alone but in conjunction with other things like an upgrade to the exhaust, engine or ECU. Like you can't upgrade the exhaust and have a paper filter. They won't work well together. The dirt they let through these filters the companies say won't harm the engine as long as you maintain them properly and put the oil in them properly. It has specific maintenance instructions and needs a lot of attention. Anyone who doesn't have the ability to understand it better not do it. If you have a sensitive engine, know that too and don't put it on. Maf has no problem if he cleans it properly. He also needs a lot of attention in cleaning and with the right materials.
I did too switched from k&n to paper filter. I noticed my maf sensor was getting so dirty that I end up with an engine code. So I cleaned my maf sensor cleared the code and got rid of the k&n. I also noticed more grime around the throttle body.
I had one in two different vehicles and never noticed a thing. What i got now i just use paper. Not paying for the filter or the oil and all that shit no more
Don’t have the stock air box with mine, and it’s a cold air k and n So what would I do lol other then just replace with a new k and n filter or clean and oil it
over oiled my K&N filter and it was fine. like over oiled so much that there was oil pouring off the filter lol. i dabbed it some with a paper towel. probably depends on the car
Makes no sense to install a K&N air filter in your ordinary daily driver . Just like those owners who bought cold air induction packages . A few extra h.p. makes little difference to the average vehicle . Plus you are not going to like cleaning the filter . The filter needs to dry out before you can oil it. So if you need to drive the vehicle quickly you need to temporarily reinstall a paper filter while the K&N dries . A hassle most owners aren't going to want to deal with .
Maintenance.. I clean my K&N every other oil change. Looks like you are basing most of your information on what “others” have or reviewed. Glad you found what is best for you.
Watch project farms video test. I used to believe they were good too. They are horrible at filtering. Not worth the unnoticable performance gain. I switched next day. Need my engine to last not get a couple extra horses I won't even notice
Its funny how people just talk trash about K&N just to get views 😂. Whats even funnier is Toyota offers factory TRD Performance Air Filter and also Intake systems...which are basically K&N knockoffs or copies BUT NO ONE TALKS TRASH ABOUT THEM!!! Yeah crazy how that works 🤔
Hit the nail in the head, I live on a dirt road, and I’m much more concerned about filtration and longevity than performance, thanks for the info and I agree with your decision.
Can we run a test where the air flow is not constant? Project Farm and the Nico Club are constant air flow tests (unless I am missing something and excluding the Restriction to Flow test). The K & N advocates seem to claim the fibers are moving as air is not at a constant speed in an engine intake. Particles hit the moving fibers in several layers and are caught by the oil. This seems to make sense as one is accelerating etc. I recall the MAP sensor sending in all different types of values. Interesting that K & N may be able to handle more dirt than paper where gaps are immediately plugged vs fibers that can move to allow air to pass through (again with varying flow). The scale decision on the graphs in the Nico Club are also odd. It's a 3% difference at constant speed between the top and lowest performer in filter efficiency. This would be barely discernible if the graph was true to scale.
Sound like some K&N propaganda nonsense. If it filters it filters. They do not. I switched after watching that test. No way that "pulsing" air is going to drop the ammount of particles it let's thru by ten fold which would barely get it to same level As the cheapest filter
I just use regular paper filters. Just swap em out more often. I use Wix. I have used K&N in the past with good results. But I never re-oiled or cleaned them. I just swapped out for new. Oiling a filter just seemed to defeat the purpose of flow. I have no problem using K&N. But I’ll just swap them as often as a regular filter. Expensive, but if 5-10 extra horsepower is important to you, then it’s worth it. My car is fast enough the way it is.
I'm running a KN air filter but my engine is tuned and my exhaust has been modified. I paid like $72 CAD for the KN filter but I keep a OEM filter and a can of MAF sensor cleaner in the car in the event of MAF sensor being soiled by the KN filter. Also a dirty air filter provide better filtration than a clean one but a clean filter is less restrictive than a dirty one. Lasty if your MAF gets dirty and the engine runs rough etc just clean it, there's absolutely no need to replace it in fact the MAF sensor will last entire lifespan of the engine.
I don’t really care about which one is better about performance because doesn’t really matter to me , I just don’t wanna clean up and put oil all the time , people talking about Cost , if you can’t pay $15-20 for paper air filter every 20-30k miles .then don’t drive :) . I work for $30 an hour i would just buy paper filter instead of pay for cleaning kit ,put my effort(30-45 mins ) and wait until it dries..
really not true what u are saying. Take a look at your dirty filter. U didn't follow instructions. U need to clean it properly after the right miles. I've been using K&N filter with Golf 7 and I always cleaned it and reuse it. Yours is really in bad condition!. Disagree with u!
K&N select are dry washable filters. seem to be more restrictive than the cotton oiled filters .maybe better for money saving and no likelihood of oiled MAF sensors.
He’s probably upset because he didn’t realize he could clean the air filter with a special cleaners at least twice rinse the bees out of the scalding hot water. Smack it on a towel a couple times. Dry it with the hairdryer re-oil it and put it back in and get maximum airflow once again, but I guess he prefers to pay $25 for a paper filter every six months or more. I love only having tolook at my air filter once or twice a year.
I think this strictly depends on driving habits. If you’re never around major dust, etc. (Farm or dirt roads), K & N works perfectly fine. I have a ‘23 Equinox that was getting 29.2 mpg with oem paper filter. After 3 weeks of K & N in normal clean driving conditions I’m at 31.6 mpg . Keep it clean and oil lightly and the proof is in the pudding.
229,000 miles on my TRD Tacoma that has been on a lot of dirt roads, off road trails, and flat out mud pits lol K&N has been in it since it's first oil change ... So far so good 🤞🤞👌👌 But this post is interesting to be and has me considering which to buy for our Forester right now
This is very true. I mean if you hold the K&N up to the light you can see the light coming through like a wet screen door. OK maybe not that bad, but still not good. I used a K&N in my Silverado for years. I never had any engine issues but when i wiped my finger on the intake tube downstream of the filter, there was real fine dust all on my finger. At that point I told myself never again. I stick to OEM filters now. It might have not caused an issue right away with my engine, but it was a Vortec 350 and are very well built. Maybe a different engine wouldn't fare very well with that dust going into the engine. Because that leads to more wear and tear on the engine no matter how you look at it.
exactly. and oiling a filter is another bad idea.theres a reason why a stock vehicle use dry filters. now if u are using vehicle for other purpose like sport then use performance parts
I don’t understand. If you had a K&N filter for 5 years and ENJOY the throttle response/mileage, why not just buy a new K&N filter and have it last you another few years or swapping it out every 2-3 years for a brand new one to keep the throttle response/mileage?
Watch project farms video test. I used to believe they were good too. They are horrible at filtering. Not worth the unnoticable performance gain regardless of cost or change out frequency
did you even watch the video? he clearly explained that the minimal horsepower gains didn't outweigh the amount of dirt that the K&N lets into the engine
I tried a 'high flow' oiled air filter on my motorbike and didn't notice any performance improvement. In dusty road conditions like that in India I think that 'high flow' filters won't offer adequate engine protection. I wouldn't trust any filter which filters light through. They may be good on the track, but I think that there's too much hype regarding real road use. Plus, it's a pain cleaning and oiling them. I feel safe with the OEM paper filter.
because rich people don't care about longevity they'll replace their car in 1-2 years when the next trendy thing comes out instead of keeping it for 10 years
Honestly for me its fussiness! If you regular change your oil a K&N will not do anything negative to your engine. Paper filters have as many issues also. Get what suits your needs, end of story. K&N = less restriction with good educated maintenance. Stock filter = manufacturer spec, needs to be changed often and checked for tears. Again its upto ones needs, I think people need to do some research as to why a K&N was invented. Good video though!
Apparently with static tests where you're just pulling air through the filter (in a test lab) the K&N will perform worse at filtration. However in a real-world scenario with turbulent air flow in a car accelerating, the K&N is meant to vibrate its layers thus trapping more dirt than a paper filter, all the while allowing greater air flow due to the larger 'gaps'.
If it really matters then don't you think company sujjest k&N only instead paper filter? Every car manufacturer knows what best for their car and stick to that.
when I go off roading I put my OEM paper filter on and normally daily driving I put the K&N bc it helps for the highway with no go up hills it doesn’t decelerate as bad as the paper bc of the air flow difference
@shanedostie9002 idk I'm in a dump truck in calichie pit hauling 10 hours straight for 6 years no problems or doesn't puss out like the stock filters when they are plugged try it saves u money
5HP??? 😂😂🤣🤣😂😭In our dreams with just a K&N filter Maybe 1 -2HP …maybe. A K&N intake can give you 2-15Hp depending on the vehicle and climate. An ARB Snorkel (The only true cold air intake) could give one 5-10+ HP with a paper filter ime. Your attempt at logic is😊 completely backwards in my decades of experience. On a vehicle like your 4Runner a very small bump like 5 HP can be felt by many people where a 5HP bump on Hot Rod won’t be noticeable.
I switched back to Denso air filters for my 1988 Toyota Truck-it works better in keeping the dirt out! Being in California with strict laws have to go with what works best.
You forgot to mention that HP can translate into better gas mileage if the driver backs off the throttle a bit. If you are city driving in a relatively dirt free environment and you drive allot of miles and gas prices are $7.00 per gallon sometimes, were I am, then saving 1 gallon for every hundred miles pays for the filter in like 500 miles. In the country I have seen what dirt roads do to an entire car. In that situation, I would put my own filter plus add the wix and just suffer the loss in gas mileage.
Correct. Better airflow slight increase in power and the engine works less hard to produce it then add a cat back exhaust so the whole system runs more efficiently.
I've using those K&N filters for many years. Never had a problem! It took him 5 years...go figure! K&N are good filters if you know how to maintain them.
The only issue is a reduction in long term engine life and efficiency. You wont notice small, incremental differences over the life of a vehicle that has the engine wearing out faster, until it's too late and the damage is already done. It's like cancer, you can't see it, but by the time you feel the consequences of it, by then it's too late and you're dead.
I use a aFe dry air filter with stock oem airbox. It doesnt need to be oiled and just needed to be cleaned with a air filter cleaner and some water. I keep my oem air filter while the filter dries
What air filter are you running and why is everyone else stupid for not doing the same? FIGHT
ua-cam.com/video/0iX9PIW4nqI/v-deo.html
OEM
Was told 35 yrs ago, by a man who worked for a Big 3 Dealer, Wix, Hastings, Purolator best.
I use Wix.
I run a K&N filter, but I don't believe it offers any improvement over an OEM filter - I do it because throwing away an OEM filter every 30,000km seems less environmentally friendly than using the same filter for the life of the vehicle.
I have been using K&N filters for more than 25 years, having sold 1 car with 212,000 miles on it (Lexus) and did not use any oil between 6,000 mile oil changes without a single problem with engine wear, MAF sensors, and, cleaning the K&N air filter about every 30,000 miles. I agree that if one drives in a very dusty environment, this might cause increased engine wear, but in city driving which is mostly what I do, there has never been a problems, and the cost of paper replacement filters on my cars, were many multiples of the cost of one K&N filter and it's cleaning kit, which has lasted now about 14 years (the kit). These are in my opinion, valid points to consider when using these kinds of filters. The horsepower increases very from none to well documented increases depending on the motor they are placed on.
Agreed. People should avoid them in dry dusty climates
You took the engine apart and confirmed?
@@CheapSushiconfirmed moron.
Been running a k&n filter for a month now in my 2004 v6 4runner and oh boy what a difference it makes for torque acceleration.
Throttle response*
Placebo.
@brucebruce479 it's not. On a 130hp vehicle you can expect 3-5HP.
@@brucebruce479Bruce the goose
Do you have the flat filter or the tube version?
Used K&N for every vehicle I've owned. Maintain it, and OIL it properly. Never had an issue.
Simply don't fucking oil it yourself. Just throw it out and buy a new one. Besides it's fine for 100k. After that sell your dam car 😂
Problem solved. 😂
You'll see more silicon (dirt) on an oil analysis
@@matsudakodo not on my recent Blackstone reports, both vehicles showed a good report, these vehicles had the k&n in well over 50,000 miles so far.
@@RJL1983 what were your levels of silicon?
@@matsudakodo report shows universal average is 11 and mine shows 10
this guy is right on the money with the maf. replaced my air filter to the kn and turned out my car couldn't pass emission and was throwing p0172 codes. had to replace maf sensor yesterday. cleaned the air filter and will switch back to paper next week when I have time
Cleaning the MAF sensor (with CRC Mass air flow sensor cleaner) would have stopped the problem and clearing the code would have made your car pass the test.
i picked up a 2022 TUNDRA k&N air filter and am getting lower MPG crazy..it just sounds slightly better when i punch on the accelerator..changing back to OEM
I just cleaned my K&N for the first time. I liked it when I first bought it. It gave the car a bit raspier sound, but after cleaning it today Im considering going back to an OE Denso or Wix. Damn K&Ns take foreever to dry and the cleaning kit is more expensive than a new Denso or Wix for my car.
Came here for the info on K&N filters, dropping a comment to let you know I love the MR2!!!!
I heard what I wanted to hear, a true revision that matches the mechanic exact words: Sports air filters are in opposition with engine longevity. Thank you!
You get much more filtering from a K & N filter. Aprox 2% more horsepower from your rated engines horsepower and Aprox 3% more torque. It's definitely more of a throaty sound with full acceleration. I have changed to this filter on the last 8 vehicles I have owned. There is a noticeable difference. This young man testing this could not be more wrong...On every level!!!
Maybe you use a tube filter and this guy used a flat filter, is tube filter much better than K&N flat filter?
I used to use K&N filters but after watching project farms test I switched. It was scary how bad K&N did at the actual filtering part.
if youre driving on regular pavement its completely fine
@@cantwealljustgetalong2 I don't a good amount of time
@ericjarvis3051 thats probably it, the way i see it is, k&n must be doing something right theyve been around a real long time
Chicken wire as a filter makes a big difference in performance. But it lets in stuff 1 inch and less into your engine. And, never alter your intake system. The OEM system was set up by automotive engineers who practice the black art of fluid dynamics. Backyard Jethro mods are ignorant, especially while drinking Mountain Dew!
Did you bother checking your intake after the filter? If you aren't seeing any build-up, it's working. I like reusing an air filter. I think it's wasteful to toss the filter every year.
Have you looked into the TRD filter? How do they stand up?
Micro particles of dirt aren't going to harm anything. The problem with those micro particles is that they stick to oil that gets into your intake from the blowby of the engine. So if you want the best of both worlds, get the K&N filter and an oil catch can. Especially on a GDI (gasoline direct injection) engine or a turbocharged engine. If you have nothing for the mirco particles to stick to, then they'll just flow into the engine, get burned and get pushed through the exhaust. Both will allow your engine to breathe better, and stay cleaner. Which will increase the longevitiy of the engine
do you mean a dry flow filter is better than an oiled K&N filter?
if you're super rich and don't care about making an engine last a long time for the next poor owner then sure use K&N... but if you care about your car and want the engine to last a long time paper is the way to go. Having said that, you wouldn't just change the air filter to increase performance, but use it within a stage 2/stage 3 package adding up all the small and not so small gains together.
Manufacturers already invested a lot of time and money designing the most efficient and safe intakes, they do take into account sound restrictions and cost so what you can do is always use aluminum straight pipes where possible and removel all the resonators, you can even find a paper cone filter such as the one found in the honda S2000.
I have a 2013 Camry. I use a FRAM air filter, just because its sold at Cdn Tire and its the easiest thing to buy. I live in a city and don't drive on dusty and dirty roads, so the filter only get replaced every 2 years. I considered buying a K&N but didn't see any benefit over what is now 10 years. I have paid roughly $75.00 for FRAM air filters or I could have paid roughly $75.00 for a K&N in 2013 + the extra cost of the cleaning solution. I agree the WIX is a better filter, then the FRAM. In the long run, living in Ottawa, I have never lost an engine or a car from a cheep air filter, but RUST is a different story! (I wish we could filter the salt)
The only reason I got it because it last 100,000 miles and I clean it every 10k-15k .it's in a 4runner no dirt roads maybe once a month but usually regular roads . So should I just go back to the white filters I have 90k I'm the original owner I'm was going to buy another one next oil change but now I'm thinking twice?
I ditched my k&n air filter on my sport bike (carb) it was letting too much air into the air box and messed with the air/fuel mixture. maybe if i jetted the carbs and adjusted mixture screws it would be ok.
I was thinking of an AFE prodry filter. What are your thoughts on this vs stock or K&N? Would dry be better?
That's what I wanna know. I just put an AEM dry drop in filter into my 24' Civic that I just bought with 1 mile on the odometer. We'll see if the engine explodes at 10k miles.
If you are driving a 45 hp motorcycle and a high flow filter bumps you up to 50 hp, you may feel a difference. If you are driving a 245 hp car and a high flow air filter bumps you up to 250 hp, you probably will not notice.
Check out the filter used for the Baja 500.
You can't test K&N with static airflow, you need the pulse and vibration.
And an engine rebuild after the race
It makes sense and I have a 2023 hHonda Civic Si and I have a K&N for it but decided to return back to the paper filter after only 400 miles just because automobiles are just too expensive to even allow a little dirt into your engine . I’ve never had any issue with K&N and have used them on a bunch of cars I’ve had but the engines today are small and very powerful and it just makes sense to run them as they are intended to run .
@@executiveinvestments OEM oil filters are legitimately well made. Do you need a K n M oil filter with 10x the casing burst strength of OEM? I guess so if your oil pressure is 1200 psi at idle, lol.
@@executiveinvestments filtration nos great on my own filtersm.ypu must be thinking about cheap Fram _&#&#. I've run cars and trucks on factory air and oil filters (OEM) and have averaged 300k miles, some going nearly 450k. OEM filters meet engineer.specs for filtration, casing strength, anti drain valve and sealing. You might want to do more research on what OEM means. Filters like knN tout things like burst strength and anti drain but again, for non modified/track cars,OEM is all they need.
I have done my research and have been rebuilding cars and engines since 1979 or so. You are confused about OEM and cheap aftermarket crap I think.
What are your thoughts on the AEM dry filter?
A freer filter never works alone nor can we demand
results from it alone but in conjunction with other things like an upgrade to the exhaust, engine or ECU. Like you can't upgrade the exhaust and have a paper filter. They won't work well together. The dirt they let through these filters the companies say won't harm the engine as long as you maintain them properly and put the oil in them properly. It has specific maintenance instructions and needs a lot of attention. Anyone who doesn't have the ability to understand it better not do it. If you have a sensitive engine, know that too and don't put it on. Maf has no problem if he cleans it properly. He also needs a lot of attention
in cleaning and with the right materials.
Does a KNM filter get worse gas mileage
I switched back to stock paper filters too.
Do the K&N filters cause any kind of oil dilution?
Can anyone answer me please.
Explain how carbon filters have basically no restriction but filter basically everything then😂
thats why ur meant to use the spray on oil with k&n filters lol if you use it properly you wont get any dirt
Great video and topic
I did too switched from k&n to paper filter. I noticed my maf sensor was getting so dirty that I end up with an engine code. So I cleaned my maf sensor cleared the code and got rid of the k&n. I also noticed more grime around the throttle body.
Yup that doesn't surprise me
I had one in two different vehicles and never noticed a thing. What i got now i just use paper. Not paying for the filter or the oil and all that shit no more
Don’t have the stock air box with mine, and it’s a cold air k and n
So what would I do lol other then just replace with a new k and n filter or clean and oil it
I think the main thing is to make sure you don't over oil it to keep your MAF sensor healthy
Also the cabin air filter is terrible. The oil that comes on the air filter gets burned and you start smelling it and it is so nasty.
20 years , 8 cars, always K&N !!
I had 2 MAF sensors go out due to over oiling, I stopped using K&N oil filters.
Sounds like a user error and not a K&N problem
@@solovolante630 was definitely my error. I stick to a dry performance filter now just in case
over oiled my K&N filter and it was fine. like over oiled so much that there was oil pouring off the filter lol. i dabbed it some with a paper towel. probably depends on the car
Never had a issue with my oil filter..just don't over oil
Nice 2007 v8 4runner I have the same year v8 4runner mine is just the salsa red @Canadian Gearhead
Makes no sense to install a K&N air filter in your ordinary daily driver . Just like those owners who bought cold air induction packages . A few extra h.p. makes little difference to the average vehicle . Plus you are not going to like cleaning the filter . The filter needs to dry out before you can oil it. So if you need to drive the vehicle quickly you need to temporarily reinstall a paper filter while the K&N dries . A hassle most owners aren't going to want to deal with .
Careful, the K&N lovers are going to come after you haha!
I'd rather not deal with washing and re-oiling. Just use a regular filter
Honest question.
Who puts a K&N filter in a 4 Runner with a baby seat?
😂😂😂
Maintenance.. I clean my K&N every other oil change. Looks like you are basing most of your information on what “others” have or reviewed. Glad you found what is best for you.
Watch project farms video test. I used to believe they were good too. They are horrible at filtering. Not worth the unnoticable performance gain. I switched next day. Need my engine to last not get a couple extra horses I won't even notice
Its funny how people just talk trash about K&N just to get views 😂.
Whats even funnier is Toyota offers factory TRD Performance Air Filter and also Intake systems...which are basically K&N knockoffs or copies BUT NO ONE TALKS TRASH ABOUT THEM!!!
Yeah crazy how that works 🤔
Your not using your KN filter properly if your getting dust in your engine lol
I’m switch from my BMC to a regular paper wix. I’d rather be .2 seconds slower than slowly ruin my engine.
Good Comment
ya i went to paper after seeing so much sand and oil in other videos with tests done
🥊🥊I KNEW IT!!!! THATS Y I RATHER DO PAPER THAN SUCK ALL THAT DIRT INTO MY ENGINE!!!!🥊🥊🤓
Thanks for sharing! Will be getting rid off my K&N next oil change
Ive always suspected this. I never bought into the K&N scheme
They did away with the oil completely!
Hit the nail in the head, I live on a dirt road, and I’m much more concerned about filtration and longevity than performance, thanks for the info and I agree with your decision.
Can we run a test where the air flow is not constant? Project Farm and the Nico Club are constant air flow tests (unless I am missing something and excluding the Restriction to Flow test). The K & N advocates seem to claim the fibers are moving as air is not at a constant speed in an engine intake. Particles hit the moving fibers in several layers and are caught by the oil. This seems to make sense as one is accelerating etc. I recall the MAP sensor sending in all different types of values. Interesting that K & N may be able to handle more dirt than paper where gaps are immediately plugged vs fibers that can move to allow air to pass through (again with varying flow). The scale decision on the graphs in the Nico Club are also odd. It's a 3% difference at constant speed between the top and lowest performer in filter efficiency. This would be barely discernible if the graph was true to scale.
Sound like some K&N propaganda nonsense. If it filters it filters. They do not. I switched after watching that test. No way that "pulsing" air is going to drop the ammount of particles it let's thru by ten fold which would barely get it to same level As the cheapest filter
It "feels the same" is a very scientific answer 🤣 🤣 🤣
I just use regular paper filters. Just swap em out more often. I use Wix. I have used K&N in the past with good results. But I never re-oiled or cleaned them. I just swapped out for new. Oiling a filter just seemed to defeat the purpose of flow. I have no problem using K&N. But I’ll just swap them as often as a regular filter. Expensive, but if 5-10 extra horsepower is important to you, then it’s worth it. My car is fast enough the way it is.
exactly oiling air filter is nonsense if u are aiming for more airflow.
Been using K&N for well over 10 years. Love them!
@@AnthonyJ350 Your engine doesn't
@@ChrisPatrick-q6k300,000KM on it
Keeps running clown.
I'm running a KN air filter but my engine is tuned and my exhaust has been modified. I paid like $72 CAD for the KN filter but I keep a OEM filter and a can of MAF sensor cleaner in the car in the event of MAF sensor being soiled by the KN filter.
Also a dirty air filter provide better filtration than a clean one but a clean filter is less restrictive than a dirty one.
Lasty if your MAF gets dirty and the engine runs rough etc just clean it, there's absolutely no need to replace it in fact the MAF sensor will last entire lifespan of the engine.
I don’t really care about which one is better about performance because doesn’t really matter to me , I just don’t wanna clean up and put oil all the time , people talking about Cost , if you can’t pay $15-20 for paper air filter every 20-30k miles .then don’t drive :) . I work for $30 an hour i would just buy paper filter instead of pay for cleaning kit ,put my effort(30-45 mins ) and wait until it dries..
KN all day
Fair enough!
really not true what u are saying. Take a look at your dirty filter. U didn't follow instructions. U need to clean it properly after the right miles. I've been using K&N filter with Golf 7 and I always cleaned it and reuse it. Yours is really in bad condition!. Disagree with u!
K&N select are dry washable filters. seem to be more restrictive than the cotton oiled filters .maybe better for money saving and no likelihood of oiled MAF sensors.
A driver playing with their phone is more likely to write off your vehicle before a K&N air filter damages your engine.
He’s probably upset because he didn’t realize he could clean the air filter with a special cleaners at least twice rinse the bees out of the scalding hot water. Smack it on a towel a couple times. Dry it with the hairdryer re-oil it and put it back in and get maximum airflow once again, but I guess he prefers to pay $25 for a paper filter every six months or more. I love only having tolook at my air filter once or twice a year.
Yes it is too easy to do.
OEM parts are always better.
I think this strictly depends on driving habits. If you’re never around major dust, etc. (Farm or dirt roads), K & N works perfectly fine. I have a ‘23 Equinox that was getting 29.2 mpg with oem paper filter. After 3 weeks of K & N in normal clean driving conditions I’m at 31.6 mpg . Keep it clean and oil lightly and the proof is in the pudding.
229,000 miles on my TRD Tacoma that has been on a lot of dirt roads, off road trails, and flat out mud pits lol
K&N has been in it since it's first oil change ... So far so good 🤞🤞👌👌
But this post is interesting to be and has me considering which to buy for our Forester right now
I don't suppose anyone knows why and how K&N came to be???
Racing motorcycles in the dirt??
Thats right, specifically designed for dirt...
@@keithm532yes for dirt, mud, wet….they resist collapse similar to foam filters.
How could you possibly determine fuel mileage? You would have to have the exact same conditions and throttling. It's simply impossible to do that
@@boarhog1979its pretty easy actually... With maths!! lol but if you choke on this cup of water..
This is very true. I mean if you hold the K&N up to the light you can see the light coming through like a wet screen door. OK maybe not that bad, but still not good. I used a K&N in my Silverado for years. I never had any engine issues but when i wiped my finger on the intake tube downstream of the filter, there was real fine dust all on my finger. At that point I told myself never again. I stick to OEM filters now. It might have not caused an issue right away with my engine, but it was a Vortec 350 and are very well built. Maybe a different engine wouldn't fare very well with that dust going into the engine. Because that leads to more wear and tear on the engine no matter how you look at it.
exactly. and oiling a filter is another bad idea.theres a reason why a stock vehicle use dry filters. now if u are using vehicle for other purpose like sport then use performance parts
I don’t understand. If you had a K&N filter for 5 years and ENJOY the throttle response/mileage, why not just buy a new K&N filter and have it last you another few years or swapping it out every 2-3 years for a brand new one to keep the throttle response/mileage?
Haha exactly my thought, it’s not that expensive
Watch project farms video test. I used to believe they were good too. They are horrible at filtering. Not worth the unnoticable performance gain regardless of cost or change out frequency
@@Joeblk10 Yep I switch back to a paper one (Purolator) after reading more reviews. They aren't good at filtering vs. Paper filters
did you even watch the video? he clearly explained that the minimal horsepower gains didn't outweigh the amount of dirt that the K&N lets into the engine
I didn't think of that before. I just re-oil them and clean them 😂
Your absolutely correct with your assessment of k&n good for the track bad for daily drivers longevity
I just threw one in my hybrid MKZ yesterday and now I'm smoking corvettes off the line
Also decided to not put a K&N filter in, since reliability is a huge point for me.
I tried a 'high flow' oiled air filter on my motorbike and didn't notice any performance improvement. In dusty road conditions like that in India I think that 'high flow' filters won't offer adequate engine protection. I wouldn't trust any filter which filters light through. They may be good on the track, but I think that there's too much hype regarding real road use. Plus, it's a pain cleaning and oiling them. I feel safe with the OEM paper filter.
If thats the case then why do Toyota even sell TRD performance oil air filters? Which is basically an K&N
because rich people don't care about longevity they'll replace their car in 1-2 years when the next trendy thing comes out instead of keeping it for 10 years
Honestly for me its fussiness!
If you regular change your oil a K&N will not do anything negative to your engine. Paper filters have as many issues also. Get what suits your needs, end of story.
K&N = less restriction with good educated maintenance.
Stock filter = manufacturer spec, needs to be changed often and checked for tears.
Again its upto ones needs, I think people need to do some research as to why a K&N was invented.
Good video though!
Totally....I'm chasing down a stock air box for my Tundra so I can start using paper filters again.
I have been using K&N filter for 8 years and never had an issue. K&N does not ruin your MAF sensor and has been proven.
Apparently with static tests where you're just pulling air through the filter (in a test lab) the K&N will perform worse at filtration. However in a real-world scenario with turbulent air flow in a car accelerating, the K&N is meant to vibrate its layers thus trapping more dirt than a paper filter, all the while allowing greater air flow due to the larger 'gaps'.
Logical reply 🎉
If it really matters then don't you think company sujjest k&N only instead paper filter?
Every car manufacturer knows what best for their car and stick to that.
when I go off roading I put my OEM paper filter on and normally daily driving I put the K&N bc it helps for the highway with no go up hills it doesn’t decelerate as bad as the paper bc of the air flow difference
My v6 Accord make 4hp on the drop in filter and I've had the filter for 5 years .. love it .
Have a check about what David Vizard think about k&n filters eventualy.
Honestly I think 99% of people won't be able to tell the difference if you ran a blind test for a couple days. No chance.
My F150's already got 300,000 km. Not worried about longevity at this point lol
I have a dump truck with a k/n been running it 7 years no problem im in dirt Calichie all day .. no dirt in engine
How can you confirm there’s no dirt in your engine tho
@shanedostie9002 bro you will know the turbo will blow I've seen turbine break from fine sand dirt
@@BB-xv6hp that can definitely happen yes but it doesn’t mean there’s no dirt in your engine. You’d have to open up the engine to know that
@shanedostie9002 idk I'm in a dump truck in calichie pit hauling 10 hours straight for 6 years no problems or doesn't puss out like the stock filters when they are plugged try it saves u money
@@BB-xv6hp if it works it works, I love K and N too but hearing that it may not filter as much is definitely catching my attention
Yep sure does let dirt in... very very fine dust was found after the air filter on my honda
5HP??? 😂😂🤣🤣😂😭In our dreams with just a K&N filter Maybe 1 -2HP …maybe. A K&N intake can give you 2-15Hp depending on the vehicle and climate.
An ARB Snorkel (The only true cold air intake) could give one 5-10+ HP with a paper filter ime.
Your attempt at logic is😊 completely backwards in my decades of experience.
On a vehicle like your 4Runner a very small bump like 5 HP can be felt by many people where a 5HP bump on Hot Rod won’t be noticeable.
Guys using a KN filter don’t keep their cars for long and change them often. So longevity is not priority.
Paper filters, always. Oil filters are more of a pain in the ass than they are worth.
Been using k&n for 8years now and all on our cars no issue just maintaining every k&n every 5k-10k(max) KM
I change oil every 10.000km . Its better paper filter
I live in Arizona(dust is a part of life)… paper it is!
I switched back to Denso air filters for my 1988 Toyota Truck-it works better in keeping the dirt out! Being in California with strict laws have to go with what works best.
project farm test was a NO oil test
You forgot to mention that HP can translate into better gas mileage if the driver backs off the throttle a bit. If you are city driving in a relatively dirt free environment and you drive allot of miles and gas prices are $7.00 per gallon sometimes, were I am, then saving 1 gallon for every hundred miles pays for the filter in like 500 miles. In the country I have seen what dirt roads do to an entire car. In that situation, I would put my own filter plus add the wix and just suffer the loss in gas mileage.
Correct. Better airflow slight increase in power and the engine works less hard to produce it then add a cat back exhaust so the whole system runs more efficiently.
Why’s everyone triggered over your decision 😭😭
Oh he’s Canadian that solves it.
I've using those K&N filters for many years. Never had a problem! It took him 5 years...go figure! K&N are good filters if you know how to maintain them.
Watch project farms video test. I used to believe they were good too. They are horrible at filtering. Not worth the unnoticqble performance gain.
@@Joeblk10, using K&N filters for more than 20 years. Never an engine problem. Nothing!!! I clean it every 2 years.
The only issue is a reduction in long term engine life and efficiency. You wont notice small, incremental differences over the life of a vehicle that has the engine wearing out faster, until it's too late and the damage is already done. It's like cancer, you can't see it, but by the time you feel the consequences of it, by then it's too late and you're dead.
I use a aFe dry air filter with stock oem airbox. It doesnt need to be oiled and just needed to be cleaned with a air filter cleaner and some water. I keep my oem air filter while the filter dries
Wix cost more than oem at the dealership, I run oem on my car