As a note, before I start, from what I understand the man who authored this video, DieselTechRon, passed away in 2016. I just wanted to express my thankfulness to him, his memory, I guess, having taken the time to make these videos to help folks like me. Thanks, Ron... whereever you are, buddy. To begin, I’m a complete novice in repairs.... so don’t hold me to the following comments about my experiences. I really offer no advice that can lead anyone astray here, but taking any such advice, you do on your own. Doing this repair today, half way done. Ron’s video is spot on. My fuel line bracket wore the underside of a fuel line, passenger side adjacent to the valvecover, right where the support bracket “holds” the line causing a wear crack and fuel leak. Fuel leak was moderate causing smoke down the highway - amazing how much fuel dumped for such a small hole. It was diagnosed as my helper turned the key to “on” position (this primes the fuel system?) - while watching from the pass. side with a flashlight, I saw a moderate amount of spray shooting backward towards the rear of the motor, into valley. Also, the same line was brass shiny to the rear of the where the break probably was. Though the break couldn’t be visualized till after the original pipe was removed, it was pretty obvious after some probing/looking that it wasn’t coming from anywhere else (like the fuel bowl...). Following Ron’s video was spot on. Dave Allen’s suggestion earlier in this post, of using a 9/16 crow foot attachment (with a 3/8 drive, inch extention) using a 8-10 inch ratchet, helped me remove the rear attachment of the fuel line as using a wrench didn’t do the trick for me (I could have cut it as Ron suggested, but I felt better about being able to secure the new one somehow, when I got to that point. Moot perhaps). Removing/replacing the rear portion of this pipe was the hardest part of this repair (so far) - it’s in a pretty tight spot. Also - that electric ratchet he uses? Amazing. I bought a similar deal and it’s invaluable loosening/tightening the hose clamps in this repair. If you got one it’ll come in handy with this repair. In any event, good luck with your repair situation; hope I helped. Ron’s the man.
That sucks. Good man for helping us out. We should all leave a safe digital footprint of ourselves for others. be it family or public. Thank you for the video wherever you are my buddy.
Ron, you definitely left your mark on the world. You brighten it up with your wisdom. I pray you are at peace and your family is too. Thank you for your wisdom and kindness. To the family keep this site active not only for his knowledge but just to hear his voice. I never met him but he sounds like the kind of person you would want as a friend and as a family member or a father.
I love UA-cam because even tho I have to pause the vid and go back etc while I work on a truck it makes me feel like a diesel technician lol. “I can easily do injectors, glow plugs, transmission” then u take UA-cam away and idk how to do shit
Great video. I replaced the line today. $54 for the line from the local ford dealership. It took about 2 1/2 - 3 hours. This video saved me a lot of guess work and headache. Thanks!
I had this done 2 years ago by a local shop here in Vegas because I didnt have the time. If i would have known how simple this is to do I would have saved myself A LOT of money. Thank you for this video.
Thank you for taking the time to show us non-mechanics what is actually going on with a fuel leak. My mechanic has had my F-350 now for 2 days and they are not finished! It was not a priority this morning.... Now I have a better understanding and how fragile that fel line is.
Thank you so much for this video!;).. we were traveling and discovered fuel leaking down by transfer case.. did a bunch of research and thru process of elimination decided it had to be this line..drove to auto parts store and disassembled as per your video.. got line off and sure enough it and a tiny crack where the bracket was holding it... got new part on and all back together and now back on the road;).. huge thank you for helping us save $$ we didn't have by doing this ourselves;)))))..
Thank you so very much for making this video. Everything from instructions to the part number was spot on for my 2000 Powerstroke Excursion. Love to your family
Thanks Ron. Had both the fuel bowl leak and this one. Appreciate your videos, I was able to knock this out in about an hour and a half thanks to knowing exactly what needed to come off and how before I started.
this sounds crazy, I know, but I have to say it. Ron was so awesome. When talking about where to place the heater hoses , he says, “I just put the over here where I just removed the manifold absolute pressure sensor.” Everybody else, if they even knew what it was, would say, “MAP sensor.” Ron was so awesome.
Brother, thank you. This helped me tremendously! Only problem I had was the faulty threads on the first new line I bought. This made everything so much easier and cheaper. RIP.
thanks for the info, much appreciated, been trying to find my fuel leak for a minute now, i believe this is the reason i have fuel dripping from the weep hole on my bell housing.
Thanks for the video Ron. I completed the line replacement in about 3 hours on my fathers 2002 F250. The hole in the line was exactly where you said it would be. Leave it to Ford to create a problem while trying to fix one. The only addition I would make is having a video that shows your tricks for putting everything back together. The soft connections took some work to line up without them folding under.
Love you Ron, I just did the full 99.5 upgrade from early 99 and my fuel line was spraying everywhere!!!! This made me happy I don't have to do too much work. RIP
Man thank you for sharing your knowledge, I’m broke down with this issue in the middle of a long cross country trip and the mechanics in the town I’m in won’t do the job because it’s noon on Friday and they said it’ll take too long and I have to wait till Monday… I’m gonna give it a whirl based on what you’ve showed here I should be able to get us back on the road Lord willing. Again thank you, great Info.. you the man
super helpful. I was able to remove the rear line fitting with only removing the cold air pipe. I used a 10 inch long ratchet with a 1 inch extension with a crows foot on the end.
Thanks for the very great video I ran into the same thing. My 2002 7.3 . The securing bracket wore a hole in the oem fuel line on the passenger side of the fuel rails
This exact thing happened to me 120 miles from home, sprayed 15 gallons of diesel down the highway. We were able to use a piece of rubber hose and a small vise grip to get us home.
Thanks so much, I have a fuel leak and an oil leak from the O rings on the turbo pedestal so will do both at once since I'm that far into it. $40 for the 0 ring set, $50 for the fuel line. Zero labor cost. I'll buy myself a six pack of IPA, all is good!
Spot on had the same leak on mine fixed it today among other small leaks. Fix the previous owners mistakes and lake of Maintance. Job was not that bad.
Thanks...Mine went during a trip this past weekend....Im not sure what i would have done if not for this video....Part number saved my ass and sure as shit, that damn clamp was the culprit....had it swapped out in about 4 hours.
Thanks to your great instructions i tackled the job of replacing the passenger side fuel line this weekend (had major fuel leak). Got everything put back together and service engine light came on and smelled exhaust in cab. I checked sensor connections and service engine light went off but still smell exhaust. There are no visible fuel leaks. Any suggestions? I have a 2001 f350 7.3L
Hey ron on the hutch and harpoon mod does the little rubber duck bill have to back on the return end or no? Can't find this answer anywhere, thank ya sir
It's good job thanks and it help me a lot as bricklayer but the only thing you didn't show how you remove the rear fuel line bolt I had to cut my 15 m ranch to fit it in there
And one more thing I hope you answer me on that When I found out where is the damage on the fuel line I did cut the damage area and I use rubber pip with tow clamps. Is that going to work?
Question, I do have a diesel leak towards the rear pass side & in the valley, I believe it is the fuel line as mentioned. The diesel is also going down the bell housing of the tranny from both sides but mostly from the pass side. I can't see with all the intake pipes & everything else in the way. Does the drivers side fuel line also have a reputation of leaking in the back as well?
What about changing the rubber hose with two screw fittings in the front of the engine behind the A/C compressor? The top fitting is not to hard to get to. But the lower fitting is way down in behind this tall aluminum block that looks like it’s full of coolant or something. How do you get a wrench in there?
Hey Ron, I have a 96 7.3 powerstroke With T/S performance chip, K+N intake, 3" downpipe and MBRP exhaust. (4") I also have a Edge Insight monitor reading boost pressure using the MAP sensor. I cant seem to get more than 15PSI boost pressure. I noticed my up pipes were leaking so I replaced them with stainless one piece welded up pipes with bellows from swaps Diesel, and replaced the compressor wheel at the same time. Still only 15PSI. any ideas?
Just did this to my 2000 7.3. truck will crank no start, tried wd40 ran for 30 sec i thought maybe some air in the line truck died after i stoped inducing. im thinking maybe electrical but there is not a lot of connectors in way of replacing the line (passenger side). any tips or things to check would be very helpful. the truck ran fine before just had a hole in the line loosing a lot of fuel
Fyi anyone that tackles this removal is a snap.....but getting that hose back in and the nut on back side is a job. Removal less than hour. Install i fought like hell, turned into 7hr project with that damn little nut on back side of motor!
Can't this be done without taking off the Y-pipe down pipe???? I am trying to do this right now and the cold charge tube is a pain in the arse down in front and the Y-pipe manifold looks like another pain in the arse!!! But THANKS for educating me on what was leaking on my 2003 F250 7.3 Crew Cab!!! I already did the fuel filter valve thing on the back of the bowl a few years ago and that was a biotch too! LOL
2 years too late for Rich, but for anyone else... on my 99, there was no need to take off the intake (y pipe). Pulling the intercooler pipe, moving the coolant lines, disconnecting the air intake heater and moving the relays (glow plug and air intake heater), was all that was needed to have the space to get in there. The whole process was MUCH easier than I was expecting. Thanks Ron for the vid!
Hi Ron. Thanks much for all the great vids. I have a 2002 Ford Excursion 4X4 with a 4" lift. I have a vibration above 40-45 mph that goes away if I let off the gas. I also noticed in park, if I rev up the engine, It feels like a vibration above 2500 RPM. Injectors? injector O-rings? How do I test them? Are you in Florida? I noticed the palm tree in the background. Just had transmission replaced 4-5 months ago and didnt notice this until about 1000 miles later.
is the part # also good for 2004 6.0 ? also my truck would not start for 3 weeks and then one night it just fired up. got code for cam p sensor and that is when it also started leaking fuel on the pass side.are the to a related problem or just happened at the same time
I'm not sure if Ron's family reads comments from Ron's(r.i.p.) channel. Ron has given so much help to me via UA-cam, I can't donate alot but if his family started a patron account or something. It would be nice to know that maybe the proceeds are going to a family, and kids that probably need to go to college, and pay bills. I'm guessing ad revenue from UA-cam is dropping.
Its most likely the water seperator valve in the fuel filter bowl. I had the same issue, you can get an o ring kit for the fuel bowl for 14 dollars on sinister diesel. It only takes a couple hours or less depending on how mechanically skilled you are
As a note, before I start, from what I understand the man who authored this video, DieselTechRon, passed away in 2016. I just wanted to express my thankfulness to him, his memory, I guess, having taken the time to make these videos to help folks like me. Thanks, Ron... whereever you are, buddy.
To begin, I’m a complete novice in repairs.... so don’t hold me to the following comments about my experiences. I really offer no advice that can lead anyone astray here, but taking any such advice, you do on your own.
Doing this repair today, half way done. Ron’s video is spot on. My fuel line bracket wore the underside of a fuel line, passenger side adjacent to the valvecover, right where the support bracket “holds” the line causing a wear crack and fuel leak. Fuel leak was moderate causing smoke down the highway - amazing how much fuel dumped for such a small hole.
It was diagnosed as my helper turned the key to “on” position (this primes the fuel system?) - while watching from the pass. side with a flashlight, I saw a moderate amount of spray shooting backward towards the rear of the motor, into valley. Also, the same line was brass shiny to the rear of the where the break probably was. Though the break couldn’t be visualized till after the original pipe was removed, it was pretty obvious after some probing/looking that it wasn’t coming from anywhere else (like the fuel bowl...).
Following Ron’s video was spot on. Dave Allen’s suggestion earlier in this post, of using a 9/16 crow foot attachment (with a 3/8 drive, inch extention) using a 8-10 inch ratchet, helped me remove the rear attachment of the fuel line as using a wrench didn’t do the trick for me (I could have cut it as Ron suggested, but I felt better about being able to secure the new one somehow, when I got to that point. Moot perhaps). Removing/replacing the rear portion of this pipe was the hardest part of this repair (so far) - it’s in a pretty tight spot.
Also - that electric ratchet he uses? Amazing. I bought a similar deal and it’s invaluable loosening/tightening the hose clamps in this repair. If you got one it’ll come in handy with this repair.
In any event, good luck with your repair situation; hope I helped.
Ron’s the man.
That sucks.
Good man for helping us out. We should all leave a safe digital footprint of ourselves for others. be it family or public.
Thank you for the video wherever you are my buddy.
I was sad to hear he passed. He made great videos that helped me when is was turning wrenches for a diesel shop I used to work at
He was hit head on by someone texting and driving. He was driving his beloved ol school VW beetle
Ron, you definitely left your mark on the world. You brighten it up with your wisdom. I pray you are at peace and your family is too. Thank you for your wisdom and kindness. To the family keep this site active not only for his knowledge but just to hear his voice. I never met him but he sounds like the kind of person you would want as a friend and as a family member or a father.
Still watching Ron! Amazing Man!
Thanks again Ron Year later and you are still the best source Of help on Ford Diesels RIP and thank you to your Family for keeping these videos up
I love UA-cam because even tho I have to pause the vid and go back etc while I work on a truck it makes me feel like a diesel technician lol. “I can easily do injectors, glow plugs, transmission” then u take UA-cam away and idk how to do shit
I sure do miss Ron!! He was a True Expert and a great teacher!! So sad he left his family and the rest of us too soon!!
What happened to Ron if I may respectfully ask? This video got my family out of a bad stranded situation.
@@grantpeacock3537 He was killed in a vehicle accident.
Ron I know you're not with us anymore, thank you so much for your time. I want to thank your family too.
Great video. I replaced the line today. $54 for the line from the local ford dealership. It took about 2 1/2 - 3 hours. This video saved me a lot of guess work and headache. Thanks!
I had this done 2 years ago by a local shop here in Vegas because I didnt have the time. If i would have known how simple this is to do I would have saved myself A LOT of money. Thank you for this video.
Thank you for taking the time to show us non-mechanics what is actually going on with a fuel leak. My mechanic has had my F-350 now for 2 days and they are not finished! It was not a priority this morning.... Now I have a better understanding and how fragile that fel line is.
And here I am being helped by his videos all these years later. RIP
Thank you so much for this video!;).. we were traveling and discovered fuel leaking down by transfer case.. did a bunch of research and thru process of elimination decided it had to be this line..drove to auto parts store and disassembled as per your video.. got line off and sure enough it and a tiny crack where the bracket was holding it... got new part on and all back together and now back on the road;).. huge thank you for helping us save $$ we didn't have by doing this ourselves;)))))..
Thank you so very much for making this video. Everything from instructions to the part number was spot on for my 2000 Powerstroke Excursion. Love to your family
Thanks Ron. Had both the fuel bowl leak and this one. Appreciate your videos, I was able to knock this out in about an hour and a half thanks to knowing exactly what needed to come off and how before I started.
Your great,you always explain things so good. Great work
this sounds crazy, I know, but I have to say it. Ron was so awesome. When talking about where to place the heater hoses , he says, “I just put the over here where I just removed the manifold absolute pressure sensor.” Everybody else, if they even knew what it was, would say, “MAP sensor.” Ron was so awesome.
Miss you sir very much,you were always so kind and helpful. R.I.P.! Miss you everyday !
Brother, thank you. This helped me tremendously! Only problem I had was the faulty threads on the first new line I bought. This made everything so much easier and cheaper. RIP.
Thank you. Great video to watch before I do this job for the first time. Going in with 100% confidence after watching.
thanks for the info, much appreciated, been trying to find my fuel leak for a minute now, i believe this is the reason i have fuel dripping from the weep hole on my bell housing.
Always good info from you. These videos are great tidbits of information.
Thanks!
Am I the only one who had issues with getting the back nut to thread on?
Thanks for the video Ron. I completed the line replacement in about 3 hours on my fathers 2002 F250. The hole in the line was exactly where you said it would be. Leave it to Ford to create a problem while trying to fix one. The only addition I would make is having a video that shows your tricks for putting everything back together. The soft connections took some work to line up without them folding under.
thank you ron, this video was very helpful! helped to repair customers truck without having to fight it!
Love you Ron, I just did the full 99.5 upgrade from early 99 and my fuel line was spraying everywhere!!!! This made me happy I don't have to do too much work. RIP
When you upgraded to late 99 stuff did it clear the early 99 fuel lines?
@@twistiestv1718 yes it all fits
Thanks for your post. Gave me the confidence to take this job myself. $$87.00 later, all fixed
Thanks for your posting. Gave the insight needed for getting the new line in.
Excellent! I was however hoping that I wouldn’t have to take si those parts off. Great presentation/explanation Can now proceed with confidence
Man thank you for sharing your knowledge, I’m broke down with this issue in the middle of a long cross country trip and the mechanics in the town I’m in won’t do the job because it’s noon on Friday and they said it’ll take too long and I have to wait till Monday… I’m gonna give it a whirl based on what you’ve showed here I should be able to get us back on the road Lord willing. Again thank you, great Info.. you the man
Update, did you tackle this yourself?
Great video, this is a complete run down of what I needed to do to replace my line.. My line was gushing like someone jugular being sliced. lol
Thank you for this valuable information.
Greetings from Mexico 🇲🇽.
Thank you, major help. Very concise and easy to follow.
Thanks! great video, helped a lot. Exactly what happened to my son's truck.
Very helpful awesome video's keep up the good work
super helpful. I was able to remove the rear line fitting with only removing the cold air pipe. I used a 10 inch long ratchet with a 1 inch extension with a crows foot on the end.
Were you able to get the whole line out with only the cold air pipe out???
I'm trying....
@@howsmit5128 Did that work out for you?
No... I had to take it all out...
Nice, I’m gonna try the crows foot trick, it’ll will save big time. Thanks
this video was very helpful! thank you for putting it together.
Thanks for the very great video I ran into the same thing. My 2002 7.3 . The securing bracket wore a hole in the oem fuel line on the passenger side of the fuel rails
This exact thing happened to me 120 miles from home, sprayed 15 gallons of diesel down the highway. We were able to use a piece of rubber hose and a small vise grip to get us home.
Great video. This is how you do it!
Thanks Ron. This helped me a lot man
Rob you video are really good
Awesome video! Thank you!
Thanks so much, I have a fuel leak and an oil leak from the O rings on the turbo pedestal so will do both at once since I'm that far into it. $40 for the 0 ring set, $50 for the fuel line. Zero labor cost. I'll buy myself a six pack of IPA, all is good!
Timmy Tool where did you get 0 ring set for turbo and fuel line.Thanks
Thanks. Great video.
excellent video. Thank you!
Thanks for everything ron rip
Spot on had the same leak on mine fixed it today among other small leaks. Fix the previous owners mistakes and lake of Maintance. Job was not that bad.
Great video, thank you!!
Thanks...Mine went during a trip this past weekend....Im not sure what i would have done if not for this video....Part number saved my ass and sure as shit, that damn clamp was the culprit....had it swapped out in about 4 hours.
Thanks... nice video... helps a lot..
He's so good!
man that rear fitting was a literal B to get back on without a crowfoot. Props to anyone who snugged that thing back in with a regular
wrench
Still helping people.433000 miles had to replace.RIP
Thanks Ron!!!
Thanks to your great instructions i tackled the job of replacing the passenger side fuel line this weekend (had major fuel leak). Got everything put back together and service engine light came on and smelled exhaust in cab. I checked sensor connections and service engine light went off but still smell exhaust. There are no visible fuel leaks. Any suggestions? I have a 2001 f350 7.3L
Hey ron on the hutch and harpoon mod does the little rubber duck bill have to back on the return end or no? Can't find this answer anywhere, thank ya sir
It's good job thanks and it help me a lot as bricklayer but the only thing you didn't show how you remove the rear fuel line bolt I had to cut my 15 m ranch to fit it in there
Exelent video
And one more thing I hope you answer me on that When I found out where is the damage on the fuel line I did cut the damage area and I use rubber pip with tow clamps. Is that going to work?
Question, I do have a diesel leak towards the rear pass side & in the valley, I believe it is the fuel line as mentioned. The diesel is also going down the bell housing of the tranny from both sides but mostly from the pass side. I can't see with all the intake pipes & everything else in the way. Does the drivers side fuel line also have a reputation of leaking in the back as well?
God Rest Diesel Tech Ron!!!
What about changing the rubber hose with two screw fittings in the front of the engine behind the A/C compressor? The top fitting is not to hard to get to. But the lower fitting is way down in behind this tall aluminum block that looks like it’s full of coolant or something. How do you get a wrench in there?
Good info
Do you guys know what size sockets he’s using for each section? Or if there’s a drawing/schematic of this engine bay with the bolt/nut sizes?
Nice video. Thank you
If you can do it with one hand, then hopefully I can do it with two.
Great video …picked part O’Reilly auto parts
thanks called my store they had it, wouldnt have thought that until i saw this comment
Well thanks you found my issue
Are there ANY videos out there that show how to change the drivers side line?
I am finding fuel down in the valley would you venture to guess this what it is?
Hey Ron,
I have a 96 7.3 powerstroke With T/S performance chip, K+N intake, 3" downpipe and MBRP exhaust. (4")
I also have a Edge Insight monitor reading boost pressure using the MAP sensor. I cant seem to get more than 15PSI boost pressure. I noticed my up pipes were leaking so I replaced them with stainless one piece welded up pipes with bellows from swaps Diesel, and replaced the compressor wheel at the same time. Still only 15PSI. any ideas?
jmanwild how many miles did yours last for?
Just did this to my 2000 7.3. truck will crank no start, tried wd40 ran for 30 sec i thought maybe some air in the line truck died after i stoped inducing. im thinking maybe electrical but there is not a lot of connectors in way of replacing the line (passenger side). any tips or things to check would be very helpful. the truck ran fine before just had a hole in the line loosing a lot of fuel
Did you figure it out
Fyi anyone that tackles this removal is a snap.....but getting that hose back in and the nut on back side is a job. Removal less than hour. Install i fought like hell, turned into 7hr project with that damn little nut on back side of motor!
Can't this be done without taking off the Y-pipe down pipe???? I am trying to do this right now and the cold charge tube is a pain in the arse down in front and the Y-pipe manifold looks like another pain in the arse!!! But THANKS for educating me on what was leaking on my 2003 F250 7.3 Crew Cab!!! I already did the fuel filter valve thing on the back of the bowl a few years ago and that was a biotch too! LOL
2 years too late for Rich, but for anyone else... on my 99, there was no need to take off the intake (y pipe). Pulling the intercooler pipe, moving the coolant lines, disconnecting the air intake heater and moving the relays (glow plug and air intake heater), was all that was needed to have the space to get in there. The whole process was MUCH easier than I was expecting.
Thanks Ron for the vid!
Hi Ron. Thanks much for all the great vids. I have a 2002 Ford Excursion 4X4 with a 4" lift. I have a vibration above 40-45 mph that goes away if I let off the gas. I also noticed in park, if I rev up the engine, It feels like a vibration above 2500 RPM. Injectors? injector O-rings? How do I test them? Are you in Florida? I noticed the palm tree in the background. Just had transmission replaced 4-5 months ago and didnt notice this until about 1000 miles later.
is the part # also good for 2004 6.0 ? also my truck would not start for 3 weeks and then one night it just fired up. got code for cam p sensor and that is when it also started leaking fuel on the pass side.are the to a related problem or just happened at the same time
hoping this is the cause on my monsterous fuel leak leaking on the back side of my engine. no fuel in valley.
Did you ever find that oil leak?
I'm not sure if Ron's family reads comments from Ron's(r.i.p.) channel. Ron has given so much help to me via UA-cam, I can't donate alot but if his family started a patron account or something. It would be nice to know that maybe the proceeds are going to a family, and kids that probably need to go to college, and pay bills. I'm guessing ad revenue from UA-cam is dropping.
Not as easy getting that back one
do you have to depressurize the system
Not if you wait a few minutes after the key is shut off.
Where can I buy from?
F81Z-9B273-BN on Amazon
I have leak it’s on a rubber hoser in front of the fuel filter it sucked
$480.00 bucks saved...YOU THE MAN!
You know you stuff
Anyone in Florida close to Polk want to help me
international st 444
John 5:28
I am finding fuel down in the valley would you venture to guess this what it is?
Its most likely the water seperator valve in the fuel filter bowl. I had the same issue, you can get an o ring kit for the fuel bowl for 14 dollars on sinister diesel. It only takes a couple hours or less depending on how mechanically skilled you are